RECIPES CUISINE NISSARDE TO PROMOTE THE AUTHENTICITY OF NICE’S CUISINE, THE “ CUISINE NISSARDE , LE RESPECT DE LA TRADITION ” ( NICE CUISINE – RESPECTING TRADITION ) LABEL IS PUBLICLY RECOGNIZED BY THE NICE CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU. RESTAURANT OWNERS CAN BE AWARDED THIS LABEL BY OFFERING SELECTED TRADITIONAL DISHES ON THEIR MENUS. A HISTORY OF NICE’S CUISINE LAND The Nice region is a land of age-old culture and history that has learnt over the centuries to use external influences to its advantage while building on its traditions. The Middle Ages ushered in the development of the salt trade, with mule caravans winding their way down the salt trails that fed into the valleys in Nice’s hinterland. As local salt production was practically non-existent, boats from Provence would stop off in Nice on their way to Liguria to unload their cargo. But the development of trade routes from the 18th century onwards was the biggest contributing factor in spreading awareness of Mediterranean food and Nice’s cuisine. The earliest forms of barley cultivation appeared in our region 3000 years ago, thanks to the indigenous Celtic-Ligurian peoples who worked the plots of land scattered around the little parcels on which they lived (castellaras). They also built hard stone enclosures to keep and safeguard their herds (mainly sheep). These earthy people encountered Greek sailors who lived in the trading posts that ran along the coastline, and thus developed an economy of exchange. This was the case in Nice with the Nikaia trading post set up at the foot of the Castle Hill. Although the Greeks developed grape growing in the 6th century BC, the Romans were the first to truly shape farming land on which to grow olive trees, vines and wheat. For a long time, a culture of subsistence agriculture with poor harvests dominated, as the natural environment was harsh: the soil was poor, water was scarce and the craggy landscape called for ‘faissas’ to be built - little sloped terraces that had to be cleared and held up by dry stone walls. Wheat was used to make bread and pasta. Vegetables such as beans, peas, lentils, broad beans, chard, aubergines, leeks, onions, marrow, cabbage, cardoon, radishes and carrots, among others, were grown in family vegetable patches. Brought back from the Americas in the 16th century, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes and corn were only grown in the County of Nice beginning in the 17th and 18th centuries. Harvesting and gathering supplemented these foods, bringing herbs and mushrooms with which to flavour and garnish dishes, while the wide variety of wild salad leaves and greens gave us what we now call «mesclun». Local fruits such as figs, grapes, chestnuts, walnuts, hazelnuts, pears and apples provided sugar. Almonds, apricots, peaches, prunes, melons and watermelons were introduced to the region by the Greeks and Romans. Originally from Asia, citrus fruits were successfully grown in our region beginning in the 16th century, as were persimmon and medlar fruits much later. C L I M AT E Although the climate in the Nice area and the Côte d’Azur has done much to boost tourism development in the region, for a long time it was a significant obstacle to local farming life. Long periods of drought broken up by violent, sometimes devastating storms, threatened good harvests and pastoral activity. Communities were consequently forced to adapt farming to the climate, which explains why plant species requiring little water such as olive and fig trees, vines, almond trees, etc. were introduced. The olive tree has been grown since Antiquity and became the ultimate symbol of Mediterranean culture for a multitude of reasons. For a long time, olive oil was the only grease used in cooking, seasoning and preserving food. Olives are also eaten at the dinner table or turned into tapenade, a condiment that was already known to and loved by the Romans. Olive oil boasts a number of dietary virtues that combine to make it a much-desired product today. The cultivation of vines was an integral part of the agricultural landscape for a long time, before being concentrated into fine wine production. This lead to the «Vins de Bellet» appellation, drawing its name from the hills upon which the vineyards unfurl. Wines from Villars sur Var and Baous are also very well-known and much-appreciated. COAST Tucked between sea and mountain, the inhabitants of the Nice region were also forced to adapt their pastoral activities to the hilly surroundings and difficult climate by choosing to raise goats and sheep - animals which survive on little grass and live on craggy land. Locals have always eaten little meat, as it was a rarity and thus too expensive. Traditionally at times of celebration, mutton or kid goat was served for Easter, offal was prepared as were local tripe specialities, ‘trule’ blood pudding, caillettes from the valleys, or cheaper cuts of meat such as veal breast or stewing meat. Hens were mainly reared for eggs, while rabbit and sometimes pork provided the occasional treat. Hunting and fishing allowed locals to add some much-appreciated variety to their diets. Down by the coast, the sea is sadly lacking in fish. Locals mainly eat sardines, anchovies, some types of rock fish, octopus and crustaceans (sea urchins, crabs) fished locally, as well as salted (cod) or dried (stockfish) fish, brought back from the ocean thanks to maritime exchanges with Northern Europe. «Poutine» sardines and sand-smelt in their larval state and «Nonnat» gobies are highly sought-after and original local specialities. Authorised from January to March by derogation, this fishing ought to have been forbidden from 1 January 1997 by a European provision, but local fishermen applied for a 30-year derogation to this act. TRADITIONS Nice’s cuisine follows the natural cycle of the seasons and festivities. Meals are determined according to the family harvest: in summer, the main dish includes a tomato salad with sauce and bread, vegetable stuffing, ratatouille and omelettes, while in the winter cabbage, leek, pulses, soups, baked sliced marrow, and fish or meat stews take centre stage. Sunday dinner is a more elaborate affair. It usually includes a starter of tomato salad in the summer or onion, anchovy and olive pizza followed by a main dish of pasta, gnocchi or ravioli, designed to fill guests up. On special occasions, a meat dish with sauce would generally follow. Dishes are eaten one at a time. Cheese is rarely served. Meals end with fresh fruit in the summer, and dried fruit in winter. Sweets are prepared for some special occasions: sweet chard pie and ganse doughnut pastries are made for Carnival, and the 13 traditional desserts are served at Christmas… During the week, housewives draw on their creativity, using leftovers and what they have to hand. Leftover meat from Sunday dinner can be turned into stuffing that is used in many of the different dishes that have become special delicacies unique to Nice’s cuisine: vegetable stuffing, stuffed veal breast, ravioli, etc. Known as a ‘merenda’, a typical snack in Nice involves drenching round crusty bread in olive oil garnished with the ingredients of a Niçois salad, the succulent ‘pan bagnat’ or ‘socca’, a thin chickpea flour pancake cooked on a large tray and cut up into little portions. VIN DE BELLET APPELLATION D’ORIGINE CONTRÔLÉE (AOC) (REGISTERED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN) HISTORY The Bellet vineyard is undoubtedly one of the oldest in France, and its plantation seems to date back to when the Phoenicians founded Marseille, although a lack of historic sources means it remains unproven. In the Middle Ages, wine trade became an important source of income for the abbeys, particularly the Saint-Pons Abbey in Nice. But it was mainly in the 18th and 19th centuries that wine was elevated to a higher status due to the royal and imperial courts, and the rich wine merchants who helped fashion wine’s international reputation. Having been granted its AOC in 1941, today Bellet wine is known around the world, and can be found at the grandest of tables. REGIONS The AOC covers approximately 650ha of which 50ha are in use. The hillsides are located on the final foothills of the Alps, at an altitude of between approximately 200 and 300 metres, all within the territory of the commune de Nice municipality. The vineyard enjoys full sunlight (approximately 2700 hours per year), nourishing rainfall (838mm per year) and a unique micro-climate due to its altitude and winds (the Mistral and Tramontane) that sweep almost continuously across the valley. This climate allows for a slow maturing process that is crucial to the crisp refinement of white and rosé wines. The vines take root in narrow beds of rounded pebbles known as ‘restanques’, which are mixed with a very light-coloured sand (poudingue) along with a little clay. Together, these excellent conditions draw out the character and full maturity of the grapes to create smooth red wines. The main grape varieties are Rolle, Chardonnay, Folle noire, Braquet, and Grenache. OLIVES & OLIVE OIL APPELLATION D’ORIGINE PROTÉGÉE (AOP) (PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN) For a long time, olive growing and trade was one of Nice’s major economic sectors. Its decline was ushered in by the two world wars that drained the region of its workforce and changed both production costs and diets. The renowned caillette (the name given to olives from Nice) is noted for its quality and delicacy in the Encyclopaedia of Diderot and d’Alembert. Table olives are steeped in sea salt brine. After six months of salting, their flesh is subtle, slightly crunchy under the tooth, with an unparalleled fruity flavour.