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FEBBRAIO 2020 L Civiltà Dellatavola ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA N ISSN 1974-2681 FEBBRAIO 2020 l CIVILTÀ DELLATAVOLA ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA N. 323 MENSILE, POSTE ITALIANE SPA SPEDIZIONE IN ABBONAMENTO POSTALE 70% ROMA AUT MP-AT/C/RM/ SPEDIZIONE IN ABBONAMENTO POSTALE SPA MENSILE, POSTE ITALIANE ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA ISTITUZIONE CULTURALE DELLA REPUBBLICA ITALIANA FONDATA NEL 1953 DA ORIO VERGANI www.accademia1953.it CIVILTÀ DELLA TAVOLA CIVILTÀ N. 323, FEBBRAIO 2020/ Sommario CIVILTÀ DELLATAVOLA ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA FEBBRAIO 2020 / N. 323 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE PAOLO PETRONI Focus del Presidente COORDINAMENTO REDAZIONALE SILVIA DE LORENZO 3 La pizza: croce e delizia PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE della cucina italiana SIMONA MONGIU (Paolo Petroni) IN QUESTO NUMERO SCRITTI E RICETTE DI UGO BELLESI, GIUSEPPE BENELLI, ATTILIO BORDA BOSSANA, SANDRO BORRUTO, GIANCARLO BURRI, ELISABETTA COCITO, L’ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA SILVIA DE LORENZO, RINA GAMBINI, è stata fondata nel 1953 da Orio Vergani GABRIELE GASPARRO, RUGGERO LARCO, PAOLO LINGUA, e da Luigi Bertett, Dino Buzzati Traverso, VITTORIO MARZI, GIGI PADOVANI, MORELLO PECCHIOLI, Cesare Chiodi, Giannino Citterio, Ernesto Donà PAOLO PETRONI, GIANCARLO SARAN, dalle Rose, Michele Guido Franci, Gianni Mazzocchi ALDO E. TÀMMARO, GIUSEPPE TRINCUCCI, Bastoni, Arnoldo Mondadori, Attilio Nava, ANDREA VITALE, ROBERTO ZOTTAR. Arturo Orvieto, Severino Pagani, Aldo Passante, Gian Luigi Ponti, Giò Ponti, Dino Villani, CREDITI FOTOGRAFICI Edoardo Visconti di Modrone, ADOBE STOCK. con Massimo Alberini e Vincenzo Buonassisi. vvv Attualità l Costume l Società EDITORE ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA VIA NAPO TORRIANI 31 - 20124 MILANO La cucina tricolore TEL. 02 66987018 - FAX 02 66987008 4 degli chef stranieri in Italia [email protected] [email protected] (Gigi Padovani) [email protected] WWW.ACCADEMIA1953.IT vvv PERIODICO MENSILE REGISTRATO PRESSO IL TRIBUNALE DI MILANO IL 29-5-1956 CON IL N. 4049 SPEDIZIONE IN ABB. POSTALE 70% QUOTA ASSOCIATIVA BASE INDIVISIBILE E 150,00, DI CUI AI SOLI FINI POSTALI E 50 PER L’INVIO IN ABBONAMENTO DELLA RIVISTA STAMPA DIGITALIALAB SRL Est modus in rebus VIA GIACOMO PERONI 130, ROMA 7 (Giancarlo Burri) STAMPATO SU CARTA ECOLOGICA CERTIFICATA FSC Tradizioni l Storia Arista, piatto nobile fiorentino SPEDIZIONE 8 S.G.S., VIA MENALCA 23, ROMA (Ruggero Larco) Le figurine Liebig CODICE IN MATERIA DI PROTEZIONE 10 e l’arte della cucina DEI DATI PERSONALI In copertina: Elaborazione grafica di un particolare dell’opera “Natura morta con maschere” (1896) di (Attilio Borda Bossana) L’Accademia Italiana della Cucina, quale titolare del trattamento, con la presente nota informa James Ensor, Hamburg Kunsthalle, Amburgo che i dati personali degli associati sono trattati nel rispetto di principi di correttezza, liceità, tra- sparenza nonché di tutela della riservatezza e dei diritti dei propri associati per dare esecuzione alla gestione del rapporto associativo, come previsto dallo Statuto e dal Regolamento dell’Associazio- ne, e per eventuali finalità connesse. I trattamenti sono svolti da soggetti autorizzati, in forma car- tacea e informatica, in conformità con quanto previsto dal Regolamento UE sopra indicato e dalla normativa nazionale vigente. Per prendere In copertina appare un Codice QR o QR Code, cioè uno di quei codici a barre con la forma quadrata che visione dell’informativa completa prevista ai sensi possono essere letti tramite le fotocamere dei cellulari e degli smartphone Android e iPhone. Quando trova- del Regolamento UE, in particolare, per conosce- te un QR Code potrete usare un’applicazione del vostro iPhone o smartphone con la fotocamera per re i diritti spettanti agli associati si rimanda al sito decodificarlo e vedere cosa nasconde. Per leggere i codici QR è necessaria anche un’applicazione per la web dell’Associazione. scansione, da installare sullo smartphone Android o su iPhone, che permette, puntando la fotocamera sul codice, di estrarre e decodificare le informazioni. Su Android potrete utilizzare, per esempio, la app BarCode Rivista associata Scanner, mentre su iPhone e iPad potrete scegliere I-Nigma oppure QR Reader. Basta far leggere a tablet all’Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana o smartphone il codice QR in copertina, e immediatamente il dispositivo si collega al sito dell’Accademia. Dai prossimi numeri della rivista poi, con i QR Code che verranno pubblicati, potrete accedere a nuovi e interes- santi contenuti interattivi del sito dell’Accademia. Sommario Le tradizioni del Carnevale Il rafano in cucina 12 (Ugo Bellesi) 28 (Roberto Zottar) A tavola con Dante 14 (Rina Gambini) Abbattere i cibi 29 nel più breve tempo possibile (Sandro Borruto) Il cibo perfetto Territorio l Turismo l Folklore 32 (Vittorio Marzi) Il dolce “àmor” di Pontremoli 17 (Giuseppe Benelli) Ristorazione e Cuochi L’Amarone: protagonista Una professione sottovalutata 19 in pentola, primo attore 34 (Elisabetta Cocito) nel calice (Morello Pecchioli) La “cacio e pepe” 36 conquisterà Milano? (Andrea Vitale) Salute l Sicurezza l Legislazione Le distorsioni alimentari 37 (Aldo E. Tàmmaro) Gli occhiali blu Focacce liguri 39 tolgono l’appetito 22 (Paolo Lingua) (Gabriele Gasparro) I capperi del Gargano 24 (Giuseppe Trincucci) In libreria Recensioni di Aldo E. Tàmmaro Cucina l Prodotti l 40 Tecnologia alimentare Le rubriche Le uova di lumaca 26 (Giancarlo Saran) 41 Riunione dei Direttori dei Centri Studi Territoriali 42 Eventi e Convegni delle Delegazioni 44 Calendario accademico 45 Accademici in Primo Piano 50 Attività e riunioni conviviali 67 35, 40, 50 anni di Accademia 68 Carnet degli Accademici 69 Biblioteca “Giuseppe Dell’Osso” 70 International Summary Focus del Presidente La pizza: croce e delizia della cucina italiana di Paolo Petroni Presidente dell’Accademia All’estero, spesso è la pizza Tra una tipologia e l’altra, la clientela cambia di molto: famiglie, che caratterizza un ristorante italiano bambini, compleanni, molti giovani. e anche nel nostro Paese sono molti I ristoranti senza pizza e i grandi chef guardano i locali che la propongono in menu, al fenomeno anche con interesse compreso qualche chef blasonato. I ristoranti senza pizza e i grandi chef guardano al fenomeno con preoccupazione ma anche con interesse. Oggi il mondo della pizza si è molto evoluto, scoprendo farine nobili e integrali, lievito madre, lunghe lievitazioni, mozzarelle di bufala e formaggi speciali, olio extravergine Dop, ingredienti top a pesso giungono richieste di costituzione di Legazioni filiera corta, coperture fantasiose e spesso costose. Non più dell’Accademia Italiana della Cucina in Stati e città distanti solo pizza “napoletana”, ariosa, soffice con ampio cornicione S dai grandi flussi turistici e commerciali, ai confini del (sempre più relegata nelle semplici pizzerie napoletane) o mondo. La prima domanda che viene posta ai proponenti pizza “romana”, sottile e croccante o infinite varianti adatte ai è se in quel luogo ci siano ristoranti italiani. La risposta è più piccoli, quali la pizza con patatine o quelle etniche, quali sempre positiva, ma con un’aggiunta: si tratta di pizzerie. la pizza-kebab. Ecco giungere le pizze “gourmet”. Oggi Senza la pizza, all’estero, in centri minori, non si fa un è tutto gourmet, dall’hamburger al panino sull’autostrada. ristorante italiano. Un esempio: nella ridente cittadina di Lilla Un pioniere è stato Carlo Cracco che, nel suo nuovo in Francia, sui 5 ristoranti italiani presenti nella nostra Guida, ristorante in Galleria a Milano, ha lanciato, criticatissimo, tutti e 5 servono la pizza, senza la quale non si lavora, dicono la sua personale pizza margherita. Ormai molti grandi in coro. Un amico siriano interessato ad aprire una Legazione chef si sono lanciati nell’impresa. La pizza gourmet viene a Damasco conferma che in città ci sono solo pizzerie. Per noi, sempre servita già tagliata in spicchi, ciascuno dei quali deve pizza è sinonimo di Italia: assieme agli spaghetti, è il piatto contenere tutti gli ingredienti in modo che il commensale simbolo della nostra cucina, ma in molti Paesi esteri, essa non possa gustare, a ogni boccone, tutto il sapore della pizza. rappresenta affatto l’Italia, tanto che in America, talvolta, si Non solo blasonati ristoranti ma anche comuni pizzerie hanno sente chiedere: “What’s the Italian for pizza”? cioè “Come deciso di abbracciare questa nuova tendenza, offrendo si dice pizza in italiano”? Tuttavia, anche in Italia la pizza pizze dai sapori insoliti e dagli ingredienti improbabili: ha ormai invaso moltissimi ristoranti. Oltre alle pizzerie limone, miele, fichi, caviale, ecc. Tale fenomeno conferma la pure, che servono solo pizza e calzoni in tutte le loro infinite grande capacità attrattiva della pizza che ha conquistato il varianti, ci sono quelle ibride con alcuni primi piatti, e poco mondo e la necessità di renderla un piatto economicamente altro e, infine, ristoranti tradizionali, ma con servizio di pizza. profittevole anche per la grande ristorazione. Pagina 3 Attualità l Costume l Società La cucina tricolore degli chef stranieri in Italia di Gigi Padovani Accademico onorario di Torino Lingotto Invece di proporre l primo locale vegetariano d’alta cu- Quelli dello chef Roy Caceres, colombia- cina? Il ristorante “Joia” di Milano, con no, al “Metamorfosi” (1 stella Michelin). piatti “etnici” dei luoghi I il ticinese (Svizzera) Pietro Leeman Il sous chef di Bottura che è alla guida di alla guida. La carbonara ideale? Secondo ben due ristoranti stellati di cucina italia- di provenienza, molti si mangia nel centro
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