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Glacial Ice Seminar Instructor Lesson Plan Guidelines

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Glacial Ice Seminar Instructor Lesson Plan Guidelines Alpine Skills International Shasta Glacial Ice Seminar Instructor Lesson Plan Guidelines 4 Day 4:1 Student/Instructor Ratio Site: Hotlum or Whitney Glacier Personal Introductions Names, related experience, goals COURSE OUTLINE Day 1 Introduction Course Orientation Discuss Goals & Objectives Schedule for the five days Course Content Instill Confidence Personal Introductions Names, related experience, goals Discuss climbing helmet policy Discuss emergency plan with participants Distribute group and rental gear Inspect packs for correct equipment and food Inspect harness fit and crampon fit Drive to trailhead Begin slow approach to high camp at Whitney Glacier (From Northgate) or Hotlum Glacier (from Brewer Creek) a) Explain pace and theories of acclimatization Discuss food and water requirements Begin teaching ice axe skills as necessary Discuss high altitude physiology and environmental injuries b) Campsite Camp construction (wind walls) Selection, tent locations, tent guy lines, kitchen Teach about various stoves, fuels Cooking Dinner Different styles and food options, nutrition for high-altitude camping Day 2 Snow and Ice Climbing Class Ice axe anatomy Self-belay grip Strong emphasis on self-belay climbing to avoid a fall Self-Arrest grip Piolet canne Pied marche Feet straight forward - 1 - 00708 Pied en conard Feet like a duck Pied at plat Feet flat 2-step in balance Switchback changeovers Self-arrest practice Teach to climb to avoid falls Sitting feet down Head first, on stomach Head first, on back Use J-Line if runout is questionable Snow belays and anchors Simple tie-in system, just a bowline or fisherman’s around the waist, (limited application, emergency use only) Harness tie-in with figure 8 Sitting hip belays (braced belays) Ice axe/carabiner belay (Stand on top of head redirect through carabiner - use Munter off the harness) Need to teach Munter T-slot ice axe Practice snow arrest as a rope team Descents Plunge step Switch backs Glissades Standing Crouching Sitting Crampons Introduction to French Technique Pied a plat, piolet canne (like a cane) Piolet ramasse (across the upper body) Piolet anchre (swing pick into ice) Descending 2-step in balance Evening lecture: Mountain emergencies and evacuation Day 3 Glacier Travel Class Hazard Recognition Rope up procedures Distance about 30ft apart, depending on size of glacier Pre-rig with prussik (use 6mm cordalette, tie off, then daisy chain the rest to keep out of the way Short rope procedure Prussiks 1 long double-ended with foot sling 1 runner length loop to waist tie (stand, sit method) Moving Roped Taut rope Belay person in and out at rest stops with prussik pre-rig Probe areas at rest stops Practice fall arrest as a rope team Route Selection and Hazard Evaluation - 2 - 00708 Crevasse crossing Crevasse Rescue Self extrication Mass hauling (discuss) Drop pulley-/C-pulley system (practice) Z-pulley (practice) – 3:1 Combination C/Z (5:1) is most commonly used Add variations of improved gear (ascender, pulley, Klimheist, etc.) Serac Climbing Front point technique X hang rest Evening lecture: Navigation with map, compass, and altimeter. Preparation for climb. Day 4 Summit Climb Hazard recognition Early start up around 4:00 AM depending on freezing level Whitney Glacier or Hotlum Glacier roped for glacier travel During climb, demonstrate fixed rope technique – fix both ends self-belay with prussik and carabiner. For hard points, clip above, then re-tie prussik. Map & Compass & Altimeter Descend and hike out by 5:00pm (max 6:00pm) Course close After course, call in ASAP please - 3 - 00708 .
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