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Bellingham Mountaineers Basic Mountaineering Course Manual 1

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Bellingham Mountaineers Basic Mountaineering Course Manual 1 Basic Mountaineering Course Student Handbook Table Of Contents Introduction ....................................................... 3 Fundamentals Field Trip: ............................... 39 Lecture Objectives ............................................ 4 Belay Practice ................................................. 40 Field Trip Objectives......................................... 4 Rock I: Anchors, Belays And Rappels Lecture ................................................................... 41 Missed Activities ................................................. 5 Ropes, Anchors, and ERNEST ......................... 42 Trail Work / Stewardship Requirement ............. 5 Rock I Quiz ....................................................... 43 Climbing Graduation Requirements .................. 5 Rock I: Anchors, Belays, Rappels, and Basic Student Responsibilities .................................... 6 Rock Climbing Field Trip .......................... 45 A Standard of Judgment – The Climbing Rock II: Climbing Technique Lecture: .......... 46 Code ............................................................. 6 Climber Roles and Responsibilities .................. 47 Basic Experience Climbs .................................... 7 Rock II: Climbing Technique Field Trip ........ 48 Reporting An Overdue Climber .......................... 8 Rock II Quiz ...................................................... 49 Climb Itinerary To Be Left With A Snow I: Snow Travel & Ice Axe Use Lecture ... Responsible Person.............................................. 9 51 Physical Conditioning ..................................... 11 Rescue coil ................................................. 52 Club Standards ................................................ 12 Snow I Quiz ...................................................... 53 Information Resources .................................... 13 Snow I: Snow Travel And Ice Axe Use Field Trip ............................................................ 55 Introduction and Leave No Trace Lecture: .... 14 Snow II: Glaciers and Mountain Weather Environmental Concerns And Guidelines — Lecture ....................................................... 56 LNT ........................................................... 15 Crevasse Rescue: Step-by-Step Instructions ...... 57 Wilderness First Aid (W.F.A.) ...................... 16 Z-P ulley Crevasse Rescue ................................. 61 Equipment Lecture: ......................................... 17 Crevasse Rescue Techniques Practice: ............ 62 Introduction ....................................................... 18 Snow II: Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue Avalanche Awareness Lecture: ....................... 25 Field Trip: .................................................. 63 Avalanche Awareness Field Trip .................... 26 Snow III: Hard Snow Field Trip .................... 64 Avalanche Awareness Quiz ................................... 27 Alpine Ice: Basic Techniques for Travel Navigation Lectures ........................................ 31 Field Trip: .................................................. 65 Rope Handling and Knots Lecture .................. 32 Final Exam ..................................................... 67 Mule Knot with an Overhand backup ................ 33 Climbing Course Graduation Application ....... 69 Munter-Mule combination................................. 34 Required Equipment Matrix .......................... 72 Belay Escape ..................................................... 35 Rappel setup with Autoblock backup ................ 36 BELLINGHAM MOUNTAINEERS BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE MANUAL 1 2 BELLINGHAM MOUNTAINEERS BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE MANUAL Introduction Welcome to the Basic Mountaineering Course. We look forward to working with you, to your success in this course, and to a SAFE and ENJOYABLE climbing career for you. All of the people who operate the course are volunteers. By the time it is over they will have put in hundreds of hours to make the program run smoothly. However there are responsibilities for you also. We feel that you will enjoy the course more if you: recognize that a high level of fitness is mandatory to complete the climbs and to ensure that you are not a liability to your climbing party. know that YOU are primarily responsible for your safety and progress in this course. recognize that a satisfactory level of mountain climbing knowledge and skill performance is required to pass the course. have a positive attitude and seek additional help and information when needed. Don't be afraid to ask. The people working with the course enjoy helping you. arrive at the lectures, field trips and climbs ON TIME. are prepared by reading the assignments and having the proper equipment and the knowledge to use it. Be organized. are flexible! Many situations which are unplanned have turned out to be valuable learning experiences because students are flexible, patient and alert to the learning possibilities. Sometimes lectures, but particularly field trips, may not run exactly as planned. watch the leaders of climbs. Pay attention because they are one of your sources for learning. They have been carefully screened by the Climbing Committee and have extensive climbing experience. practice the “leave no trace” philosophy and clean climbing. This means be aware of the fragile alpine environment and act to protect it from harm. If you can answer “no” to the question, “Will others know I have been here?” then you have been a clean climber. plan to give something back in the future, such as assisting on field trips for the next year's class. This volunteer spirit is what makes this class a success. If questions or problems arise during the course please feel free to contact members of the Climbing Committee or the Student Coordinators for the course. We want to hear your comments, both good and bad, as they help us improve the scope and quality of this course. BELLINGHAM MOUNTAINEERS BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE MANUAL 3 Lecture Objectives The lecture series has several objectives: to highlight, explain and elaborate on key mountaineering principles and concepts to supplement the textbook material to provide specific information on upcoming field trips to serve as a central meeting time to answer questions, address problems, clarify policies and procedures, etc. The text for the climbing course is Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, most recent edition, written and published by the Mountaineers. You must read the required chapters before each lecture. Lectures are planned to begin promptly at 7:00 pm, unless noted otherwise. Arrive a few minutes early so you have time to chat with fellow students and the instructors, and to find your seat. Field Trip Objectives Field trips offer you the chance to practice, under a qualified instructor, the material presented in the lectures and in the text. Field trips are where you learn to develop your climbing skills. Therefore it is important that you come prepared. The adage that you get out of something what you put into it certainly applies to this course. Your instructors will not make you into a climber; YOU will make yourself into one with their help. Review lecture and text material before each field trip. To get the most out of a field trip, PRACTICE THE MATERIAL BEFOREHAND on your own. At the field trip, work to challenge yourself. You can always do more than you think you can. Each field trip must cover a great deal of material in a very limited time. It is often difficult to train such a large class safely without becoming too impersonal. You can help by keeping in mind the following: PREPARE FOR EACH FIELD TRIP. Review all materials and handouts, and practice beforehand. This will guarantee developing your climbing skills as quickly as possible. be prepared for full, long days at each practice. Get sufficient sleep the night before, and don't plan a big night when you return home do not bring family, friends, or pets to the field trips arrive early enough to park and make whatever preparations are necessary so that you are ready to begin at the starting time stay with your group, and don’t wander out of the area Please remember that your instructors and leaders are all volunteers. All have something to teach you and deserve your attention and courtesy. 4 BELLINGHAM MOUNTAINEERS BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE MANUAL Missed Activities Missed lectures and field trips are nearly impossible to make up. Because attendance at lectures and field trips is essential for continuation in the course and for graduation, students must plan accordingly. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO BE PRESENT AT ALL ACTIVITIES. Contact the student coordinator(s) early if you think you may miss a Bellingham class activity. If you are unable to make up a field trip, we will revoke your student badge. Trail Work / Stewardship Requirement The Mountaineers, founded in 1906, have long demonstrated a tradition of commitment to wilderness conservation and minimal impact practices. This tradition has broadened in scope and action over the years, but remains one of the core functions of The Mountaineers. Therefore, the Bellingham Branch requires all students in the Basic Mountaineering and Scrambling Courses to “give back” at least one day of outdoor trail work. Students have found many personal rewards from this, including: introduction to a new area protection of the wilderness through proper trail construction and maintenance increased comfort and efficiency
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