The Space of the Anatolian Carpet, an Analytical Vision
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Oriental Rug Knotting & Construction
Oriental Rug Knotting & Construction Knotted, Tufted and Flat-Woven Rugs; Knot Types and Density Anatomy of A Hand Knotted Rug A. WARP - The parallel threads running through the entire length of the rug onto which the knots are tied. B. WEFT - The threads running across the width of the rug inserted between all the rows of knots. These threads pass through alternate warp threads. Their job is to secure the knots in parallel lines and to strengthen the fabric. C. KNOT - The term used for a strand of wool yarn which is looped around two adjacent warp threads and then cut to form the pile (surface of carpet). D. OVERCASTING - A simple wrapping of dyed yarn along the entire length of both sides of a handmade rug. E. FRINGE - The visible continuation of the warp threads at both ends of the carpet. F. KILIM - The pileless web of warp and weft between the rug's pile and the knotted fringe. This is also the name for a rug without pile. Types of Oriental Rug Construction Who Uses Which Knot? Line of division (dotted line): distinguishing Turkish Knot (west of line) and Persian Knot areas (east). PERSIAN KNOT WITH ALL OF THE WARP THREADS ON ONE LEVEL TURKISH KNOT WITH ALL OF THE WARP THREADS ON ONE LEVEL PERSIAN KNOT WITH THE WARP THREADS ON TWO DIFFERENT LEVELS OPEN BACK & CLOSED BACK OPEN BACK CLOSED Different methods for finishing the undersides of rugs BACK The FULL LOOP part of the In the CLOSED BACK KNOT is on the UPPER KNOT the FULL LOOP is warp thread on the LOWER warp thread . -
Sustainability of Handwoven Carpets in Turkey: the Context of the Weaver
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 2006 Sustainability of Handwoven Carpets in Turkey: The Context of the Weaver Kimberly Berman University, Ithaca, NY Charlotte Jirousek Cornell University, Ithaca, NY Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Design Commons Berman, Kimberly and Jirousek, Charlotte, "Sustainability of Handwoven Carpets in Turkey: The Context of the Weaver" (2006). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 340. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/340 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Sustainability of Handwoven Carpets in Turkey: The Context of the Weaver Kimberly Berman, graduate student, Charlotte Jirousek, Assoc. Professor Department of Textiles and Apparel Cornell Department of Textiles and Apparel University, Ithaca, NY Cornell University, Ithaca, NY Forms of Production Past research, conducted mainly in the 1970s and 1980s, has identified three forms of production in which carpets are woven as commodities1. These are petty-commodity production, the putting-out system, and workshop production. Petty-commodity production involves weaving in the home, with the male head of the household or other male relatives selling the finished product to a carpet dealer or at a local or regional market (fig. 1). The family owns the loom and other weaving supplies, and family members purchase or prepare the yarn themselves. -
Treasures from Near Eastern Looms
The Bowdoin College Library Treasures from Near Eastern Looms ERNEST H. ROBERTS BRUNSWICK, MAINE 1981 Bowdoin College Museum of Art Brunswick, Maine September 11, 1981 to November 22, 1981 The Textile Museum Washington, District of Columbia December 11, 1981 to February 6, 1982 Cover: Carpel Fnn>incni, Caucasian, Dagistan area, ca. 1850 Photographs by Robert H. Stillwell Design by Michael W. Mahan Printed byJ.S. McCarthy Co., Inc., Augusta, Maine Copyright © 1981 by Ernest H. Roberts Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 81-68474 ISBN: 0-916606-02-3 Portions of this catalogue are reprinted in altered form from other publications. We are indebted to the following institutions for per- mission to use their material: to the Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin, Ohio, for the chapter introductions and descriptions of plates 12, 19, 24, 28, 63, and 65, which appeared in "Catalogue of Islamic Carpets," Allen An Museum Bulletin 3 (1978-1979) by Ernest H. Roberts; to The Textile Museum, Washington, D.C., for glossary entries and drawings from "Definitions and Explana- tions," a section of Early Caucasian Ru^s by Charles Grant Ellis, published by that museum in 1975, and for the loan of the map which appears on page 61 of this book; to the Joslyn Art Museum, Omaha, Nebraska, for descriptions of plates 28, 35, 44, 57, and 67 from A Rich Inheritance: Oriental Ruj^s oj 19th and Early 20th Centuries, published by that museum in 1974; and to the Near Eastern Art Research Center, Inc., for the description of plate 68 from Islamic Carpets by Joseph V. -
Rugs Weave New Lives
Rugs Weave Scholar-in- New Lives Residence n 1978, German chemist Dr. Harald Boehmer sparked “The Great IAnatolian Rug Revolution,” transforming the entire Turkish rug industry. Even more than an industrial revolu tion, it has become a cultural survival project known as DOBAG, a Turkish acronym for Nat ural Dye Research and Development Project, which has restored the ancient art of handwo ven carpets and established the first-ever woman’s rug weaving cooperative in the Islamic world. Boehmer will give a lecture, Nomads of Anatolia, at 7 p.m., Saturday, Sept. 13, in Hudson Audi torium, Nerman Museum of Contemporary Art. The lecture is free and open to the public as part of JCCC’s Scholar-in-Residence program. A reception with Boehmer begins at 6 p.m. During his Sept. 13-17 residency, Boehmer will also address JCCC textile classes. Boehmer’s passion for native rugs began when he was teaching in Turkey. Using thin-layer chromatography, the chemist was able to ana lyze the dyes used in old Turkish rugs and match the vibrant colors to their original plant sources. Under Boehmer’s guidance, weavers stopped buying petroleum-based dyes and returned to Indeed, the DOBAG Project has raised the the natural plant dyes for their wool. The profit- social and economic status of women. Villagers Anatolain rugs are sharing cooperative DOBAG began and now are no longer forced to move to cities to look for displayed here, supports about 400 families in western Turkey. work. A participating weaver must send her photographed by children to school, and no child labor is Boehmer in 2007. -
Rug Buying Guide Find the Perfect Rug for Any Space
Rug Buying Guide Find the perfect rug for any space. Learn more about rug construction, sizes, material, style, and care. The right rug can do more than just help define a space. It can protect your floors from wear and tear while adding to a visually appealing aesthetic with its colors and patterns. However, purchasing a rug is no easy task. You must consider your lifestyle, placement of the rug, design of the rug, and what you will need from a rug. We’ve compiled the ultimate guide to help you find the exact rug that will fulfill the needs of your space. Rug Weaves The weave of a rug can determine the feel, look, and durability overtime. Although rugs can now be made more efficiently, there are still many craftsmen who tediously weave rugs by hand. Hand-Knotted Hand-knotted rugs are very labor intensive with lasting results. They are very durable and can last for over 20 years with minimal shedding. The most common fiber used is wool. Because hand-knotted rugs are very labor intensive to create, they can take on average 5-7 months to be completed, sometimes even longer. The time and labor put into creating a hand-knotted rug does make it considerably pricier than other. Weavers will begin by hand tying knots onto warps before tying tufts of wool around the warp creating knots. The end of knots create the pile. Wefts are then threaded through in order to tighten the knots. This creates the foundation of the rug. The more knots per inch, the more intricate the pattern, and usually the more durable the knots will be. -
Issue 2015 2 3
1 Issue 2015 2 3 EDITORIAL Dear Fellow Associates, Alive is back! After several years of absence, we are proud to publish a totally brand new magazine dedicated to the art of Turkish rugs. Istanbul Carpet Exporters Association (IHIB) is celebrating its 25th anniversary. IHIB represents 400 Turkish carpet exporters that generate 500 million USD in rug exports as well as 1.5 billion USD from rugs sold in touristic shops within the country and from oriental rug restoration. Through Alive, our intention is to demonstrate not only our Turkish carpet heritage but also our vision for the future. In this issue, we have asked Turkish and, for the first time, international experts to share their knowledge of the rug history and more importantly, of the future of our precious rugs. Thanks to our rich heritage of carpet weaving, Turkey is the world’s second biggest Oriental rug exporter. Our goal, though, is to become number one. We aim to make Istanbul the main international center for oriental and for designer rugs with worldwide famous Turkish brands. For that very purpose, we give full support to young Turkish designers and to creative Turkish rug merchants. Soon we will be constructing our new project named ISTANBUL HALIKENT (Istanbul Carpet Outlet) that will be the biggest carpet outlet in the world consisting of 200 carpet showrooms at one location. Already the biggest manufacturer of machine made rugs and second biggest exporter of Oriental handmade rugs, our know-how, our dynamism and our innovation will herald a bright future for Turkish designer rugs and Turkish carpet brands. -
Oriental Rugs from Persia, Afghanistan, Turkey
Modified By The Rug Guru Oriental Rugs From Persia, Afghanistan, Turkey ... Turkmen Rugs Geography West Turkestan is an area of some 700,000 square kilometres with the Caspian Sea to the west, the Mangyshlak Peninsula to the northeast and the Kapet-Dagh Mountains and the outskirts of the Hindukush forming a semicircle to the south. West of what since 1924 has been the border of the Soviet Socialist Republic of Turkmenistan are Afghanistan and the Iranian province of Khorassan. At the eastern side is the huge Chinese province of Xinjiang (Sinkiang). Usually referred to in the context of weaving literature as East Turkestan. Thus viewed in simple geographic terms, it is easier to understand the nature of this Eurasian basin, part of the ancient world's dry belt. To the western side of the region is the Karakum desert and to the east, between the Amu- Darya and Syr-Darya rivers, is the Kyzylkum desert. To the south, that there was earlier the Soviet Socialist Republic of Uzbekistan, now this independent state, are the important trading centres of Bukhara and Samarkand. The latter having been a major post along the ancient Silk Road, which ran from China through East Turkestan and on westwards, via Tashkent in Uzbekistan, Mary (Merv) in Turkmenistan and Khorasan. Many different ethnic groups have occupied this region for millennia and among those associated with weaving, in addition to the Turkmen's themselves, are the Uzbeks, Karakalpaks and Kirgiz. Historical Research Serious research into the weaving culture of the Turkmen's must, of course, encompass more than aesthetic appreciation. -
Areathe Offical Publication of the Oriental Rug Importers Association, Inc
AREATHE OFFICAL PUBLICATION OF THE ORIENTAL RUG IMPORTERS ASSOCIATION, INC. DESIGN FOCUS Brian Murphy SPRING 2016 spring 2016 final.qxp_001 FALL 2006.qxd 3/9/16 11:24 AM Page 2 HERMITAGE COLLECTION TRULY ORIGINAL RUGS, PILLOWS AND THROWS Visit us at High Point | April 16-20, IHFC D320 LOLOIRUGS.CO M/HERMITAGE spring 2016 final.qxp_001 FALL 2006.qxd 3/9/16 11:24 AM Page 2 jamison 53304 jamison 53308 maddox 56503 Invite your customers to experience island-inspired living at its fi nest through the refi ned yet casual Tommy Bahama area rug collection. OWRUGS.COM/ Tommy spring 2016 final.qxp_001 FALL 2006.qxd 3/9/16 11:24 AM Page 2 INTRODUCING THE CHELSEA COLLECTION AN EXCLUSIVE FINE WOOL AND SILK CARPET PRODUCTION N e w J e r s e y D e l h i S h a n g h a i D u b a i M e l b o u r n e spring 2016 final.qxp_001 FALL 2006.qxd 3/9/16 11:24 AM Page 2 spring 2016 final.qxp_001 FALL 2006.qxd 3/16/16 11:57 AM Page 6 From the President’s Desk Dear Colleagues and Friends, will enhance the image of the oriental and orien- tal style rug and spark a new awareness and Judging from reports, the most recent January appreciation of a wide variety of rugs from all rug trade shows were well attended and sales were producing countries. So while congratulations are solid. Dealers in attendance reported they had a in order for members who had been and now will good 2015, finishing the year with be actively importing rugs from strong sales. -
The Tree of Life Design – Part 1
S. Busatta– The Tree of Life Design – Part 1 Cultural Anthropology 205 – 220 The Tree of Life Design From Central Asia to Navajoland and Back (With a Mexican Detour) Part 1 Sandra Busatta Antrocom-Onlus sez. Veneto The Tree of Life design is thought to be originated in Central Asia possibly from shamanic cultures, and can be seen as a favorite pattern in many carpets and rugs produced in a huge area, from Afghanistan to Eastern Europe. From the Middle East, together with other Christian and Moorish designs, it was imported to Central America where it mixed with the local versions of Tree of Life. Traders who brought Oriental carpet patterns to be reproduced by Navajo weavers made it known to them, but it was only after the 1970s that the design has had a real success together with other pictorial rugs. Introduction In the late 1970s for the first time I saw a number of samples showing the so-called Tree of Life design embellishing the walls of a restaurant in the Navajo reservation. In one or two trading posts and art galleries in the Southwest I also saw some Tree of Life rugs made by Navajo weavers, and also some Zapotec imitations, sold almost clandestinely by a roadside vendor at a ridiculously low price. The shops selling Mexican artesanias, both in the US Southwest and in Mexico, however, displayed only a type of Tree of Life: a ceramic chandelier- like, very colorful item that had very little to do with the Tree of Life design in the Navajo rugs and their Zapotec imitations. -
AN OVERVIEW of the WORLD of ORIENTAL RUGS • the Constrution of an Oriental Rug O the Loom O the Knot O the Material O Types of Dyes
AN OVERVIEW OF THE WORLD OF ORIENTAL RUGS • The Constrution of an oriental rug o The loom o The knot o The material o Types of dyes . Vegatable or natural dyes . Aniline … mid 1800’s . chrome … early 1900’s chrome dyes proved to be excellent. Often times weavers will use a combination of vegetable dyes and chrome dyes, however, since the mid 20’s most rugs were made with chrome dyes. THE HISTOTRY • Rugs from 500BC to the 16th century • THE FIRST GREAT RUG RENAISSANCE… the 16th century ushered in the "GOLDEN AGE" of oriental rugs or The Sefavid dynasty … and its very famous shahs. • - 1499–1524 Ismail • - 1524–1576 Tahmasp • - 1587–1629 Abbas • In 1722 Persia was invaded by Afghanistan nomads • Mid 19th century, rug production started again • 1880-1915 … THE SECOND GREAT RUG RENAISSANCE. • By 1910 the U.S. imported 70 to 80% of the rugs that were made in Persia • Then in the early 1900’s, with the coming of European businessmen there came a demand for the rugs to have more continuity, color, and design. • City rugs verses village rugs • World War I and World War II • Rugs were being woven throughout the orient (which extends basically from the Balkens all the way east to China. However, the best rugs were from Iran… • By around 1980 the technology or production of making an oriental rug began to really develop • The demand • Buying what’s available or producing what you want • continuity • Village verses factory City rugs verses village rugs • The quality of the wool • Hand spun verses machine spun • The dyes • The weave • The washing and finishing • The two biggest driving forces for the significant changes in production in the late 1900’s were: o The demand of traditionalist or purist to get back to genuine weaving o Industry leaders responding to the demand for decorative carpets • 1979 Iranian crisis • 1979 Soviet invades Afganistan • THE THIRD GREAT RUG RENAISSANCE… 1980-present 1 . -
Identification Manual
ORIENTAL & FINE AREA RUG CLEANING IDENTIFICATION MANUAL “TRY NOT TO BECOME A MAN OF SUCCESS, BUT RATHER A MAN OF VALUE.” – ALBERT EINSTEIN RUG TYPES AND CONSTRUCTION The construction of any hand-woven or machine-woven rug begins with the interlacing of warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) yarns, which are known as the foundation. This creates the basic structure of the rug, to which the pile yarns may be added with hand knotting or mechanical insertion. Foundation yarns used in rugs are: wool, silk, cotton, jute, polyester and polypropylene. Foundation yarns include: Warp – cotton, wool, silk, linen, polyester, slit-film polypropylene. Weft – cotton, wool, silk, jute, spun polypropylene. Stuffer – cotton (one or several). Differences between Hand-Made and Machine-Made Rugs Items to Inspect: Machine Made: Hand Made: Warp Yarns Warps visible on the back Knots visible, pattern distinct Weft Yarns Double “shots” if Gripper Visible on back, single and Axminster double weft End Finish Fringe sewn or stitched on Extension of warp yarns unless repaired Edge Finish Edges are machine serged or Edges hand sewn or stitched “overcast” WARPS NAP OR PILE KNOTS (SHOWN IS THE EDGE WEFT ASSYMETRIC BINDING “PERSIAN” OR “SENNEH” KNOT KNOW) WARP WEFTS KILIM END FINISH OVERCASTING OR KILIM KILIM FRINGE 1 Basic Rug ID Chart: Hand Woven: Hand Knotted Iran, India, Pakistan, Oriental China,Tibet, Nepal, Visible Weft Turkey, Afghanistan, Overcast by Hand Africa, Spain Fringe Extension of Warp Pattern on Back is Distinct Flat Weave Not Perfectly Symmetrical Dhurrie, -
Pre-Orientalism in Costume and Textiles — ISSN 1229-3350(Print) ISSN 2288-1867(Online) — J
Journal of Fashion Business Vol.22, No.6 Pre-Orientalism in Costume and Textiles — ISSN 1229-3350(Print) ISSN 2288-1867(Online) — J. fash. bus. Vol. 22, No. 6:39-52, December. 2018 Keum Hee Lee† https://doi.org/ 10.12940/jfb.2018.22.6.39 Dept. of Fashion Design & Marketing, Seoul Women’s University, Korea Corresponding author — Keum Hee Lee Tel : +82-2-970-5627 Fax : +82-2-970-5979 E-mail: [email protected] Keywords Abstract Pre-Orientalism, Orientalism, The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of oriental fashion, Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental cultural-exchange, influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not — been clarified, further study can be done.