©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

New York & the Mid-Atlantic

New York State p122

Pennsylvania p218 # New York City Philadelphia p48 p182 # New Jersey p157 Maryland p307 #_ West Virginia Washington, DC Delaware p295 p377 p245

Virginia p339

Amy C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Ray Bartlett, Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Ali Lemer, Virginia Maxwell, Simon Richmond, Regis St Louis, Karla Zimmerman PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to New York NEW YORK CITY. . . . 48 North Fork & & the Mid-Atlantic...... 6 Shelter Island...... 131 Sights...... 52 Catskills...... 132 New York & the Activities...... 83 Mid-Atlantic map...... 8 Phoenicia & Sleeping...... 85 Mt Tremper...... 132 New York & the Eating...... 90 Mid-Atlantic’s Top 22. . . . 10 Tannersville...... 133 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . 102 Need to Know...... 22 Woodstock...... 140 Entertainment ...... 109 Finger Lakes...... 141 If You Like ...... 24 Shopping...... 114 Ithaca...... 141 Month By Month. . . . . 26 Getting There & Away. . . 119 Seneca Falls ...... 144 Itineraries ...... 30 The Adirondacks. . . . . 144 Outdoor Activities. . . . 34 NEW YORK STATE . . 122 Albany ...... 145 Long Island...... 123 Lake George ...... 147 Eat & Drink Like a Local...... 38 South Shore ...... 123 Lake Placid...... 148 The Hamptons...... 128 Lake Ontario & Travel with Children. . . . . 41 Montauk...... 129 Thousand Islands. . . . 149 Regions at a Glance. . . . 44 JOHN M CHASE/GETTY IMAGES © SEAN PAVONE/GETTY IMAGES ©

BLUE CRAB, CHESAPEAKE BAY (P331), MARYLAND DAVENEWMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MARTIN LUTHER KING JR MEMORIAL (P256), WASHINGTON, DC Contents

St Lawrence Asbury Park...... 168 Shopping...... 214 River Shore...... 149 Ocean Grove...... 171 Getting There & Away. . . 217 Western New York . . . . . 151 Barnegat Peninsula. . . . 172 Buffalo...... 151 Long Beach Island. . . . . 173 . . . 218 Niagara Falls...... 154 Atlantic City ...... 174 Pennsylvania Dutch Wildwood...... 177 Country ...... 219 NEW JERSEY...... 157 Cape May...... 179 Lancaster...... 219 Northern New Jersey. . . 159 Pennsylvania Wilds . . . 228 Hoboken ...... 159 Western PHILADELPHIA. . . . 182 Pennsylvania...... 229 Newark...... 160 Sights...... 184 Pittsburgh...... 232 Princeton...... 161 Activities...... 200 Laurel Highlands ...... 239 Lambertville...... 163 Tours...... 201 Central Pennsylvania. . . 241 Pine Barrens...... 164 Sleeping...... 201 State College ...... 241 Jersey Shore...... 166 Eating...... 204 Southeastern Sandy Hook...... 166 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . 210 Pennsylvania...... 242 Brandywine Valley. . . . . 243 Upstate & the Poconos...... 244

WASHINGTON, DC. . 245 Sights...... 247 Activities...... 271 Tours...... 273 Sleeping...... 274 Eating...... 277 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . 284 Entertainment ...... 288 Shopping...... 290 Getting There & Away. . . . 293

DELAWARE. . . . . 295 Delaware Coast...... 297 Wilmington...... 302 Brandywine Valley. . . . . 303 New Castle ...... 304 Dover ...... 305

MARYLAND. . . . . 307 Baltimore...... 310

PHILADELPHIA (P182), Annapolis...... 320 PENNSYLVANIA Eastern Shore...... 325 SHENANDOAH VALLEY, VALLEY, SHENANDOAH (P368) VIRGINIA (P368)

LITTLENYSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

INDEPENDENCE INDEPENDENCE (P274), PARADE DAY DC WASHINGTON, ON THE ROAD

JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK © PNG-STUDIO/GETTY IMAGES © Contents

UNDERSTAND

St Michaels & VIRGINIA...... 339 New York & the Tilghman Island...... 325 Mid-Atlantic Today. . . . 398 Northern Virginia. . . . . 342 Cambridge...... 326 Arlington...... 342 History...... 401 Salisbury...... 327 Alexandria...... 344 People & Culture . . . . 409 Berlin...... 328 Fredericksburg...... 348 Assateague Island. . . . . 329 Arts & Architecture. . . 413 The Piedmont...... 350 Ocean City...... 330 Landscapes & Wildlife. . . 417 Richmond ...... 350 Western Maryland . . . . 332 Charlottesville. . . . . 357 Frederick...... 332 Historic Triangle. . . . . 360 Cumberland ...... 334 Williamsburg...... 361 Southern Maryland . . . . 336 Jamestown ...... 363 Leonardtown & Yorktown...... 364 St Mary’s County...... 336 SURVIVAL Solomons Island & Hampton Roads . . . . . 365 Calvert County...... 338 Norfolk...... 365 GUIDE Virginia Beach...... 366 Shenandoah Valley. . . . 368 Directory A-Z...... 422 Staunton...... 368 Transportation . . . . . 430 Lexington...... 371 Index...... 439 Blue Ridge Highlands & Southwest Virginia. . . 374 Roanoke...... 374 Abingdon...... 375

WEST VIRGINIA . . . 377 Eastern Panhandle. . . . 380 Harpers Ferry...... 380 Shepherdstown ...... 382 Berkeley Springs ...... 384 SPECIAL Monongahela FEATURES National Forest. . . . . 385 Outdoor Activities. . . . 34 Canaan Valley...... 385 Snowshoe & Eat & Drink Pocahontas County. . . . . 386 Like a Local...... 38 Thomas & Davis...... 388 Road Trip: New River & the Hudson Valley...... 134 Greenbrier Valley. . . . . 389 Road Trip: Pennsylvania New River Gorge Dutch Country. . . . . 224 National River...... 389 People & Culture. . . . . 409 Fayetteville ...... 391 Lewisburg ...... 391 Arts & Architecture. . . 413 Charleston...... 393 Landscapes & Wildlife. . . 417 NEW YORK CITY (P48) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 30

Itineraries

PENNSYLVANIA NEW YORK CONNECTICUT OHIO RHODE ISLAND

OHIO PENNSYLVANIA MARYLAND WEST VIRGINIA

NEW JERSEY NROCKS DISTRICT OF •# COLUMBIA WEST VIRGINIA Greenbrier River TrailM•#ARYLAND Shenandoah

÷# National Park Greenbrier É NROCKS DISTRICT OF River •# COLUMBIA DELAWARE New River Trail É

Gorge •# •# New É River Gorge ÷# Shenandoah •# Humpback Rocks National National River ÷# National Park N O R T H

É Blue Ridge Parkway River AT L A N T I C ÷# •# •#Humpback Rocks Blue Ridge O C E A N Parkway VIRGINIA VIRGINIA

NORTH CAROLINA

1 WEEK Mountain Adventures

This trip is for those who like their nature ancient and wild: timbered mountains, raging rivers and towering rock formations. In Virginia, kick off with a few days at Shenandoah National Park. This sliver of gorgeousness straddles the Blue Ridge Mountains, so named for their color when glimpsed in the hazy cerulean distance. Soak up the beauty driving the scenic Skyline Drive and pull over to hike a few miles, winding past spring wildflowers, summer water- falls and fiery fall leaves. Drive south of the park to climb the iconic Humpback Rocks beside the Blue Ridge Parkway. Cruise a few hours north to the sprawling Monongahela National Forest in wet and wild West Virginia, where you can rock climb Seneca Rocks, tackle a fixed-anchor via ferrata trail at NROCKS or pedal the Greenbrier River Trail. From here, drive over rugged mountains to New River Gorge National River. End this trip rafting the wild Gauley River or the scenic New River, which is really very old. Outfitters provide white- water rafting gear for the Class V rapids. 31

MASSACHUSETTS NEW CONNECTICUT YORK RHODE Greenport ISLAND

•# •#Montauk PENNSYLVANIA É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Ù# Sandy Hook

NEW JERSEY •#Jersey Shore

MARYLAND É WEST VIRGINIA DISTRICT OF Lewes •# Cape May COLUMBIA •#÷#

Cape Henlopen State Park It DELAWARE •# Rehoboth ÷# Fenwick Island State Park i nerar Ocean City•# •# Assateague

VIRGINIA É Island AT L A N T I C i es O C E A N

÷#First Landing State Park #÷ Back Bay NORTH CAROLINA

2 WEEKS Exploring the Coast

This region isn’t named the Mid-Atlantic for nothing. New York, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland and Virginia all border the Atlantic Ocean. Their beaches and beach towns each have something unique to offer. Escape the urban jungle of New York City with three days at the pretty beaches of Greenport and Montauk on Long Island. Next up is four days on the wild strands of the infamous Jersey Shore, which is dotted with resort towns stretching south from wide-beached Sandy Hook to Cape May, where bird-watching and whale-watching (May to December) are top-notch. Hop the Cape May-Lewes Ferry to continue south for three relaxing days in Delaware. In Lewes, Delaware, explore the historic downtown then bike ride to The Point at Cape Henlopen State Park. The next day, drive to Rehoboth and take a stroll on the tourist-trappy boardwalk. Don’t miss a beer sampling at famous Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats before a fine seafood dinner on Wilmington Ave. Just south, enjoy an ocean swim at Fenwick Island State Park. Continue south to spend two days in coastal Maryland. In Ocean City things get wild on another festive boardwalk. The scene is more serene on Assateague Island. Wild horses run free on the Maryland side of this barrier island, while the Virginia section is home to a wildlife refuge. Drive south across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel – hold tight! – to camp at First Landing State Park just steps from the sand. To conclude the trip, take your pick: a convivial boardwalk-and-beach day in Virginia Beach or a quiet hike in the remote Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge. 32

NEW PENNSYLVANIA JERSEY

•# New Castle MARYLAND É É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

•# WEST Dover VIRGINIA WASHINGTON, DC #_ •#Annapolis •#Mount É DELAWARE Vernon

Montpelier•# Charlottesville •# It

i nerar

É •# É Colonial AT L A N T I C Richmond Williamsburg O C E A N i es VIRGINIA •# •# •# Jamestown Yorktown

NORTH CAROLINA

2 WEEKS Colonial Days Tour

The roots of the USA’s government took hold in riverside Colonial towns and valley vil- lages where the Founding Fathers lived, learned and legislated. Begin with three days in the Tidewater region of Virginia, where you can brush up on Colonial-era history. Start in Jamestown, where Pocahontas helped the New World’s first English settlement survive, then head to Yorktown to learn about the decisive battle that ended the Revo- lutionary War. From here it’s a short drive to Colonial Williamsburg where you can wander through an 18th-century village come to life with costumed reenactors. Your next four days will be spent exploring the low-lying Piedmont region of Vir- ginia. Your first stop is Richmond, where Patrick Henry gave his impassioned ‘Give Me Liberty, or Give Me Death’ speech in St John’s Episcopal Church in 1775. Then visit the Virginia State Capitol, designed by Thomas Jefferson. Drive west to Charlottesville to explore gorgeous Monticello, Jefferson’s revered mountaintop home. Honor the wine- loving third president with a glass at a pretty winery. Spectacular Montpelier, home of James Madison, the architect of the Constitution, is also in the region. Next up is the nation’s capital, Washington, DC, where you’ll spend four days learn- ing about the US government from its earliest days. Don’t miss the striking Jefferson Memorial before perusing Colonial artifacts at the National Museum of American His- tory. Explore the first president’s beloved home, Mount Vernon just outside Alexandria beside the Potomac River. Drive east to spend two days in charming Annapolis. Wander the first floor of the Maryland State House, where Washington famously resigned his military commission after the Revolutionary War, ensuring that the country would be led by a civilian, not a military leader, and that power would be shared with Congress. Exhibits at the US Naval Academy Museum trace the development of America’s navy. The final day of this tour is a short romp through Delaware, nicknamed the First State because it was the first of the thirteen original states to ratify the Constitution. Dine in an 18th-century tavern in historic New Castle then tour the John Dickinson Plantation – former home of the man nicknamed the ‘Penman of the Revolution’ – and the Old State House in Dover. 33

NEW YORK

PENNSYLVANIA

OHIO TRIP YOUR PLAN NEW Pittsburgh JERSEY •# Flight 93 Gettysburg Pennsylvania

É Memorial National Dutch Country •# É •# Military •# Kentuck Knob •# Park •#Philadelphia ÷# •# Brandywine River Museum of Art MARYLAND It i nerar

WEST DISTRICT OF VIRGINIA COLUMBIA

DELAWARE i es

VIRGINIA AT L A N T I C O C E A N

1 WEEK Packed in Pennsylvania

On this trip, we’re taking in as much of the Keystone State as possible. By the end of this journey you’ll have taken in some of America’s most important history and gorgeous art, and been exposed to some iconic Mid-Atlantic architecture. Start with a couple of days in Philadelphia. Explore Independence National Historic Park – make sure to go early to the Independence Visitor Center to secure a timed ticket to visit Independence Hall. Before or after, also drop into the Liberty Bell Center. On the next day, get in some more historical background at the excellent Museum of the Ameri- can Revolution or learn all about Philly’s favorite founding father Benjamin Franklin at Franklin Court. Clop down the cobbles of Elfreth’s Alley and explore the boutiques and art galleries of the Old Town. Don’t leave the city without browsing Cezannes, Renoirs and Picassos at the Barnes Foundation, and catching live music at live music at Johnny Brenda’s or Union Transfer. On the next day, drive west, making sure to stop in at the Brandywine River Muse- um of Art, situated in the dark-green Brandywine Valley. Continue west to Pennsylva- nia Dutch Country, and consider a tour of the Amish Farm & House. Have a big smor- gasbord dinner, and the next day explore local folkways at the Landis Valley Museum. After two days here, proceed further west and make a detour to Gettysburg Na- tional Military Park. Here you can easily spend a whole day walking the paths once laid down by the opposing armies of the Civil War. West of here is the elegiac Flight 93 memorial. You may want to bunk down in the Laurel Highlands to keep within close proximity to Fallingwater and Kentuck Knob, two of the most fascinating residences ever dreamed up by Frank Lloyd Wright. When you’ve finished getting your architec- tural fix on, proceed north to Pittsburgh. In Pittsburgh, make sure to take a ride on the Duquesne Incline funicular and stop into the Mattress Factory and the Warhol Museum. Have a night out in the East Liber- ties before tackling the next day: exploring the Carnegie Museums, the Frick and Schen- ley Park. Have a night out in Pittsburgh’s North Side or Polish Hill area, and as you sip that cold beer, be content that you’ve just taken in a ton of Pennsylvania. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 437

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

amazing city: Belinda, Jennifer, May­anne, Chang, Re- WRITER THANKS becca, Alex B, Clay, Danniel and Rachelle, Madoon, to Amy C Balfour name a few. And a shout out to all the other incred- Thank you Ed and Melissa Reid, Alicia Matthai, Liz ible NYC denizens who made researching this book Robinson, Karen Snyder, David Martin, Brian Martin, such an awesome voyage. Can’t wait to be back. Mary McRoberts, Suzanne Morris, Mary Kathryn Field, Jen Barrow, Mo Persinger, and Stephanie Coleman Adam Karlin and family. Special thanks to Melissa, Mary, Anna and Thanks to: my usual Lonely Planet editorial crew, Carlton, Baltimore hostesses extraordinaire. Melissa, co-authors Brian Kluepfel and Robert Balkovich, Mark you are a friend in deed. Connie Tyree, thanks for the Leeper for PA Dutch Country recommendations, hospitality! Many thanks to the supportive team at Jonah Evans and Trish Kelly for excellent Pittsburgh Lonely Planet. This book is dedicated to Dave Dekema, advice, my folks for taking me around Pennsylvania the best co-adventurer out there. Miss ya Dave! from a young age, wife Rachel for letting me roam, daughter Sanda for constantly making me laugh, Robert Balkovich and son Isaac for arriving and bringing great joy to First and foremost, thank you to my destination edi- our lives. tor, Trisha Ping, who has given me so many wonderful opportunities and is a continual joy to work with. I’d Brian Kluepfel also like to thank my parents for letting me convince To my wife and North Star, Paula Zorrilla. To Trisha them to send me to art school in New York, my at Lonely Planet, and Robert and Adam, my writing sister for keeping me grounded, all of my New York cohorts. To Marc in Atlantic City, Brooke in Mon- friends who gave me fantastic recommendations, and tauk, and Tom K in Hoboken for local knowledge. Chelsea for her thoughtful insights. Special thanks To Joe Dawson, Laura Tafuri and Karen Ramos for to my friend Jonathan for all the logistical help and cool beach recommendations. And to all the lovely encouragement. toll-takers on the Garden State Parkway, some of whom I now know on a first-name basis. Ray Bartlett Thanks first and always to my family for making all Ali Lemer this possible and for putting up with me. Thanks Many thanks to Will Coley, Nicole Marsella, Adam to Trisha P, editor extraordinaire, for giving this the Michaels, Regis St Louis and Trisha Ping, and to Pro- green light, and to my coauthors for the help and ca- fessor Kenneth Jackson, who taught me more about maraderie. Hugs and deepest gratitude to everyone NYC history than anyone. My work is dedicated to the who went out of their way to show me around their memory of my father, Albert Lemer, a first-generation 438 New Yorker who inspired my enthusiasm for inter- for hosting me in Williamsburg. Special thanks national travel as much as he kindled my love of our to the staff at Mount Sinai Queens Hospital ER shared hometown – the greatest city in the world. room for help after the late-night bike accident. As always, thanks to Cassandra and our daughters, Virginia Maxwell Magdalena and Genevieve, for their support. Thanks to DC locals Barbara Balman and Bob Bresnahan for their convivial company and insider Karla Zimmerman BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND tips; to Trisha Ping for giving me the gig and Deep appreciation to all of the locals who spilled supplying interesting leads; to DC expert Karla the beans on their favorite places. Special thanks Zimmerman; and to traveling companions Eveline to Kate Armstrong, Virginia Maxwell, Ryan Ver Berk- Zoutendijk, George Grundy and Ryan Ver Berk- moes, Amy Schwenkmeyer and Bill Brockschmidt. moes. At home in Australia, thanks and much love Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best to Peter Handsaker, who coped with apartment- partner-for-life, who kindly indulges my Abe Lincoln renovation chaos and didn’t blame me for my fixation. You top my Best List. absence (well, not too much). Simon Richmond ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Many thanks to the following people who gener- ously shared their time and knowledge about the Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson city: Jerry Silverman, Lindsay Ryan, Tish Byrne, BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of Mason Wray and Rajeev Shankar. the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Regis St Louis Cover photograph: Kayaking in the Adirondacks, Many thanks to David Fung and Kristie Blase for New York State, Aurora Photos/AWL ©. their warm hospitality, to Jayson Mallie and Glen Brown for their friendship, and Ali and the felines Illustrations p58–9 by Javier Zarracina.

Destination Editor Harrison, Alison Morris, Rosie THIS BOOK Trisha Ping Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, This 1st edition of Lonely Senior Product Editors Monique Perrin, Tamara Planet’s New York & the Grace Dobell, Vicky Smith Sheward, Amanda Williamson, Simon Williamson Mid-Atlantic was curated by Product Editor Kate James Amy C Balfour, and researched Senior Cartographer Assisting Cartographers and written by Amy, Robert Alison Lyall Hunor Csutoros, Julie Balkovich, Ray Bartlett, Mi- Sheridan, Diana Von Holdt

chael Grosberg, Adam Karlin, Book Designer Ania Bartoszek Cover Researcher Brian Kluepfel, Ali Lemer, Naomi Parker Virginia Maxwell, Simon Rich- Assisting Editors Pete Cruttenden, Jacqueline Thanks to Ben Buckner, mond, Regis St Louis and Karla Brana Vladisavljevic Zimmerman. This guidebook Danam, Emma Gibbs, Carly was produced by the following: Hall, Jennifer Hattam, Victoria ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 439

Index

A architecture 416 Museum of Modern Art 65 accommodations 316-17 Abingdon 375-6 area codes 428-9 National Gallery of Art children, travel with 315 accessible travel 422-3 Arlington 342-4, 343 247, 255 drinking & nightlife 319 accommodations 423-4 Arlington National Cemetery National Gallery of Art entertainment 319-20 Sculpture Garden 257 children, travel with 41 342-4 festivals & events 316 Neue Galerie 73 activities 21, 24, 34-7, see Armstrong, Louis 83 food 317-19 New Museum of also individual activities art museums & galleries 24 sights 310-15 Contemporary Art 63-4 Adirondacks 13, 144-9, 146, Albright-Knox Art tourist information 320 Gallery 153 Newark Museum 160 13, 34 tours 316 American Visionary Art Opus 40 Sculpture Park & African American history & travel to/from 320 culture 252-3, 407 Museum 314-15 Museum 136 travel within 320 air travel 430-1, 432 Andy Warhol Museum 232 Palmer Museum of Art 241 Barnegat Peninsula 172-3 airports 23, 431 Baltimore Museum of Parrish Art Museum 129 baseball 412 Albany 145-7 Art 315 Pennsylvania Academy of basketball 412 alcohol 426, see also Barnes Foundation 191-2 the Fine Arts 197 breweries, distilleries, Brandywine River bathrooms 429 wineries Museum of Art 243 Philadelphia Museum of Batsto Village 165 Art 186-7, 186 Alexandria 344-8, 345 Carnegie Museums 233 B&Bs 423 Phillips Collection 269 Allegheny Mountains 418 Center for Photography at beaches 12, 166 Phillips Museum of Allegheny National Forest Woodstock 140 Barnegat Peninsula 172 Art 219 232 Chrysler Museum of Art Belleayre Beach 133 365-6 Princeton University Art Alpha-gal syndrome 425 Bethany Beach 301, 12 Colonial Williamsburg Art Museum 162 American Revolution 403-4 Dewey Beach 301-2 Museums 361-2 Reynolds Center for Amish community 21, 228, American Art & Jersey Shore 166, 168 21, 231 Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum 73 Portraiture 264 Long Beach Island 173 amusement parks Delaware Art Rubin Museum of Art 64 New Jersey 166, 168 Dinosaur Kingdom II 372 Museum 302 Storm King Art Cente Orient Beach 131 Funland 299-300 Delaware Center for the 136-7 Rehoboth Beach 299-301 Hersheypark 227 Contemporary Arts 302 Taubman Museum of Sandy Hook 166 Jenkinson’s 172 Art 374 Dia: Beacon 137 Virginia Beach 366-8, 15 Jump into the Light VR 83 Virginia Museum of Fine Evergreen Museum 311 Beacon 137 Steel Pier 175 Arts 351 Freer-Sackler Museums of bears 419 Trimpers Rides 331 Asian Art 256-7 Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art 327 Beckley Exhibition Coal animals 419-20, see also Frick Art & Historical Mine 392 individual species Center 233 Whitney Museum of American Art 64 beer 211 Annapolis 320-5, 322 Frick Collection 73 arts 413-16 Belleayre Mountain 132 14, 36, Guggenheim Museum 73 Asbury Park 168-71, 170 Berkeley Springs 384-5 356, 374, 381, 14 Herbert F Johnson Berlin 328-9 Appomattox 361 Museum of Art 141 Assateague Island 329-30, 17 aquariums Hirshhorn Museum 257 Atlantic City 174-7, 174-5, 18 Bethany Beach 301, 12 National Aquarium 310 Hyde Collection Art ATMs 427 Bethel 141 Virginia Aquarium & Museum 147 Aurora 143 bicycle travel, see cycling Marine Science Center Met Breuer 73 Bird-in-Hand 226 367 Metropolitan Museum of B birds 420 Art 72-3 babysitting 41 birdwatching 242 MoMA PS1 82-3 420 biscuits 39 Map Pages 000 Museum of Arts & Design Baltimore 310-20, 312- black bears 419 Photo Pages 000 69-70 13, 316 blue crabs 331, 2 440 Blue Ridge Highlands Bronx, The 80-2, 109 civil rights movement 407 D 374-6, 7 Brooklyn 51, 89-90, 99-102, Civil War 404-5 Davis 388-9 Blue Ridge Parkway 13, 107-8, 117-18, 82 Civil War sites 15 Declaration of 376, 13 Brooklyn Bridge 60, 11 African American Civil Independence 403 bluegrass 16, 415-16 Buffalo 151-4, 152 War Memorial 265-8 Deep Creek Lake 335 boardwalks 14 bus travel 431, 433 American Civil War deer 419

INDEX INDEX boat travel 273, 432-3 business hours 23, 427 Museum - Delaware 12, 46, 295-306, books 398, 405, 420 Appomattox 361 296 Brandywine Valley Antietam National accommodations 295 Battlefield 332-3, 15 B-E (Delaware) 303-4 C beaches 12, 12  Calvert County 338 Brandywine Valley Appomattox Court climate 295 House National  (Pennsylvania) 243-4 Cambridge 326-7 food 40, 295 Historic Park 361 breweries 211, see also camping 423-4 highlights 296 distilleries Canaan Valley 385-6 Droop Mountain Battlefield 388 history 297 Answer Brewpub 357 canoeing 36 Ellwood Manor 349 travel seasons 295 Atlas Brew Works 286 Cape May 179-81, 180 Fredericksburg & travel to/from 297 Bar Hygge 210 Capitol Hill 259-62, 260 Spotsylvania National Delaware Coast 297-302, Blue Bee Cider 356-7 car travel 431, 433-5, see Military Park 349 298 Bluejacket Brewery 284 also road trips, scenic Historic Tredegar 351 Delaware Water Gap 14, drives Brickworks Brewing & Manassas National 161, 14 Eats 302 cathedrals, see churches & Battlefield Park 344 Denver, John 415 cathedrals Bronx Brewery 109 Monocacy National Dewey Beach 301-2 Bube’s Brewery 228 Catskills 17, 132-41, 132, 17 Battlefield 333 distilleries 211, see also Church Brew Works 238 cell phones 22, 428 climate 22, 26-9 breweries Cold Spring Brewery 181 cemeteries climate change 430 Asbury Park Distilling 169-70 Crime & Punishment Arlington National C&O Canal National Brewing Co 210 Cemetery 342-4 Historic Park 20, Little Water Distillery 177 Dogfish Head Brewing & Edgar Allan Poe’s 334, 20 Painted Stave Eats 300-1 Gravesite 311 C&O Canal Towpath 271 Distilling 302 Evil Genius Beer Hollywood Cemetery 351 coffee 93, 205, 285 Philadelphia Distilling 213 Company 213 Kennedy Gravesites 344 colleges, see universities & Washington, DC 288 Lancaster Brewing Central Park 56-9, 78-9, colleges Wigle Whiskey 234 Co 223 56, 58-9 Colonial Williamsburg Meduseld Meadery 228 Charleston 377, 393-6, 361-2, 25 Douglass, Frederick 261 Montauk Brewing 394-5 Coney Island 77 Dover 305-6, 305 Company 130 Charlottesville 357-60, 358 consulates 425 D&R towpath 164 Resurgence Brewing cheesesteaks 208, 230 crab cakes 39 driving, see car travel Company 154 children, travel with 41-3, crabs 331 drugs 426 Right Proper Brewing 315 Co 286 credit cards 427 Chinatown 61 Second District Brewing Crooked Road 375 E 212-13 Chincoteague Island 365 Crozet 359 eagles 420 Shenandoah Beerwerks churches & cathedrals culture 409-12 Earhart, Amelia 250 Trail 373 Abyssinian Baptist Cumberland 334-6 East Hampton 128 Church 77 Smartmouth Brewing customs regulations 424 Eastern Panhandle 380-5 Cathedral Church of St Company 366 Cutchogue 131 Eastern Shore 17, 325- John the Divine 73-6 30, Veil Brewing 357 cycling 35-6, 432 17 Bridge Day 26, 390 Church of the Easton 326 Advocate 200 Capital Crescent Trail bridges 271-2 Eastport 321 Mother Bethel AME Benjamin Franklin economy 400 Church 189 C&O Canal National Bridge 189 Historic Park 381 electricity 424 St Andrew’s Dune Ellis Island 60 Brooklyn Bridge 60, 11 Church 129 C&O Canal Towpath 271 embassies 425 Kinzua Bridge St John’s Episcopal D&R Towpath 164 Skywalk 229 Church 351 emergencies 23 New River Gorge St Patrick’s Cathedral 69 Cumberland 335 Empire State Building 69 Bridge 389 St Vladimir Russian Junction & Breakwater environmental issues 419, Broadway 111 Orthodox Church 165 Trail 297 420, 430 Trinity Church 61 Pine Creek 229 Ephrata 227 Washington National Washington, DC 271-3 etiquette 40 Map Pages 000 Cathedral 270 events 26-9 Photo Pages 000 exchange rates 23, 427 441 F H Monticello 357-8 Jefferson, Thomas 357 farm stays 223 Hampton Roads 365-6 Mount Vernon 345-6, 21 Jersey Shore 18, 166-81, farmers markets, see Hamptons 128-9 Stonewall Jackson 167, 18 markets Harlem 51 House 372 Jewish cuisine 96 Fayetteville 391 Harpers Ferry 380-2, Storer College Jewish people 411 festivals 26-9, see also 382-3 Campus 381

individual locations Hatfields & McCoys 392 Winterthur 304 INDEX Fifth Avenue 65 Woodrow Wilson K health 425-6 kayaking 36 films 85, 398, 402, 404, heat exhaustion 426 Presidential Library 369 Kennedy Gravesites 344

F-L  414 ,410 Henry, Patrick 403 Kitchen Kettle Village 226 Finger Lakes 141-4, 142-3 Yorktown Battlefield 364

 Heritage Music Trail 375 Historic Triangle 360-5 Krasner, Lee 128 Firefly Music Festival Hershey 227 history 25, 401-8 26, 306 High Line 64 Americal Revolution Fire Island National highlights 8-9, 10-21 L Seashore 123-7 403-4 35 Lake George 147-8 Flatiron Building 65 civil rights Lake Ontario 149-51 Appalachian Trail 14, 36, movement 407 Flight 93 National 356, 374, 381, 14 Lake Placid 148-9 Memorial 233 colonial period 401-2 C&O Canal National Lambertville 163-4 immigration 404, 405 Floyd Country Store Historic Park 20, Lancaster 219-23, 224-5, 375, September 11, 2001 408 16 334, 20 228-9, 222 food 24, 38-40, 425 Pine Creek Rail Trail 229 Watergate scandal 408 Laurel Highlands 239-41 football 412 Pinnacle Trail View 147 websites 407 legal matters 426 forts Shenandoah National WWI 405 Leonardtown 336-8 Park 356, , Fort Ligonier 240 4 12 WWII 406 lesbian travelers, Fort McHenry National Wallkill Valley Rail Trail Hoboken 159-60 see LGBTQ+ travelers 138 Monument & Historic holidays 428 Lewes 297-9 Shrine 315 Washington, DC 271-3 horses 330 Lewisburg 391-3 Founding Fathers 21, historic parks hostels 424 403-4 Lexington 371-3, 371 Appomattox Court hotels 424 fracking 419 House National LGBTQ+ travelers 410, Hudson 139 426-7 Franklin, Benjamin 188 Historic Park 361 Hudson River Park 64 New York CIty 103 Frederick 332-4 C&O Canal National Hudson Valley 134-9, 135 Philadelphia 212 Fredericksburg 348-9 Historic Park 20, 334, 20 Hyde Park 137-8 Washington, DC 289 funiculars 232-3 Harpers Ferry National libraries Historic Park 380 Folger Shakespeare Independence National I Library 261 G Historic Park 16, immigration 404, 405 galleries, see art museums Library of Congress 259 188, Independence Day 26, 16 Morgan Library & & galleries 4, 29 Valley Forge National Museum 69 gardens, see parks & Historic Park 243 Independence Hall 184-5, gardens National Archives 263-4 historic sites 25, see 184 New York Public gay travelers, see LGBTQ+ also Civil War sites Independence National travelers Library 69 Batsto Village 165 Historic Park 16, gentrification 400 188, 16 Parkway Central Colonial Williamsburg Library 192 geography 417-19 361-2 Inn at Little George Washington Washington 360 Rosenbach Museum & Fort McHenry National Library 197 Memorial Parkway 344 Monument & Historic insurance 425 lighthouses Gettysburg 226 Shrine 315 Intercourse 226-7 Absecon Lighthouse 175 giardiasis 425 Fort Montgomery State internet access 426 Barnegat Lighthouse 173 Golden, Jane 197 Historic Site 135 internet resources, Governors Island 81 Frederick Douglass see websites Saugerties Lighthouse 136 great camps 145 National Historic Ithaca 141-3 Site 261 Twin Lights of 406 itineraries 30-3, 30, 31, Historic Jamestowne Navesink 167 Great Falls 334, , 25 363-4 32 33 Lincoln, Abraham 265 Green Bank Independence Hall 184- Lincoln Center 71 Observatory 386 5, 184 Lincoln Memorial 247 Greenbrier 393 J Independence National James River 367 literature 414, see Greenbrier Valley 389-93 Historical Park 188 Jamesport 131 also books Greenport 131 Jamestown Jamestown 363-4 Lititz 227 gun control 399-400 Settlement 364 jazz 415 Little Italy 61-3 Liberty Bell Center 188-9 442 Long Beach Island 173 Jefferson Memorial 257, Amstel House 304 Gettysburg National Long Island 19, 123-32, 10-11 Antique Boat Military Park Museum 126-7 Kunta Kinte-Alex Haley Museum 149 & Visitor Center 226 tourist information 123 Memorial 322 Atlantic City Historical Hagley Museum & travel to/from 123 Lincoln Memorial 247 Museum 175 Library 303 Loudoun County 350 Lost at Sea Babe Ruth Museum 311 Hammond Harwood House 321 INDEX INDEX Luray Caverns 368 Memorial 130 Banneker-Douglass Hatfield & McCoy Lyme disease 425 Martin Luther King Jr Museum 321-2 Memorial 256, 2 Benjamin Franklin Country Museum 392 National September 11 Museum 188 Hillwood Estate, Museum L-M  M Memorial & Museum Betsy Ross House 189 & Gardens 270

Madison, James 359 54-5, 54 Black Voices: African Historic Ships in  Manhattan 60-77, 62, 66-7, National WWII American History 381 Baltimore 310-11 70-1, 74-5, 78-9 Memorial 258 B&O Railroad Historic St Mary’s City markets Rocky statue 193 Museum 311 336-7 Bird-in-Hand Farmers Statue of Liberty Brooklyn Museum 77 Historic Village at Allaire 168 Market 226 52-3, 52 Bureau of Engraving & Chelsea Market 64 Vietnam Veterans Printing 256 Hoboken Historical Museum 159 Green Dragon Farmers Memorial 247 Calvin B Taylor House Market 227 Washington Monument Museum 328 International Spy Museum 265 Maine Avenue Fish 255-6, 314 Carnegie Museums 233 Market 258 Mennonite community 228 James Monroe Museum Center for PostNatural & Memorial Reading Terminal Metropolitan Museum of History 233 Library 349 Market 193 Art 72-3, 413 Chesapeake Bay Mari- Jewish Museum of South 9th Street Italian mobile phones 22, 428 time Museum 325 Market 195-7 Maryland 311 money 22, 23, 427 Cloisters Museum & Union Square John Brown Museum 381 Monongahela National Gardens 77, 134, 137 Greenmarket 65 Forest 385-9 John Brown Wax Coal House 392 Museum 381 Maryland 46, 307-38, Montauk 129-31 308-9 Corning Museum of John Dickinson motels 424 Glass 144 accommodations 307 Plantation 305-6 motorcycle travel 431, Cranberry Mountain Johnson Victrola climate 307 433-5, see also road Nature Center 387 Museum 305 food 39, 307 trips, scenic drives Cumberland Visitor Kreeger Museum 270-1 highlights 308-9 Mount Vernon 345-6, 21 Center & Museum 335 Lancaster Mennonite history 310 mountain music 16, 375, Doo Wop Experience 178 Historical Society 222 travel seasons 307 415-16 Dumbarton Oaks 269 Landis Valley Museum Meadowlands 417 Mountain Valley Dutch House 304 219 measures 423 Pipeline 400 East Hampton Town Lee Chapel & mountains 417-18 memorials, monuments Marine Museum 128 Museum 372 & statues, see also movies 85, 398, 402, 404, Eastern State notable buildings 410, 414 Lower East Side Penitentiary 192 Tenement Museum 63 African American Civil Mt Nittany 241 Edgar Allan Poe House & War Memorial 265-8 Maryland Historical Mt Tremper 132-3 Museum 311 Society 314 Belmont-Paul Women’s murals 197, 200 Edgar Allan Poe National Equality National Maryland Science museums 24, see also art Historic Site 200 Center 315 Monument 261-2 museums & galleries Empire State Plaza 145 Matewan Replica Depot Flight 93 National Adirondack Museum Memorial 233 Fabric Workshop & Museum 392 144-5 Museum 193 Franklin Delano Matson Museum of African American Fairmount Anthropology 241 Roosevelt Memorial Heritage Museum Waterworks 192 Merchant’s House 257-8 of Southern New First State Heritage Park Museum 63 George Washington Jersey 175 Masonic National Welcome Center & Mine Wars Museum 392 Air Mobility Command Galleries 305 Memorial 346 Museum 306 Morgan Library & Fort William Henry Harriet Tubman Allegany Museum 334 Museum 69 Underground Railroad Museum 147 American Civil War Museum of Jewish National Historical Franklin Institute 192-3 Heritage 60 Park & Visitor Center Museum - Appomattox 361 Freedom House Museum of the American 326-7 Museum 346 American Museum of Revolution 188 Natural History 72 Frontier Culture Museum Museum of the Moving 368-9 American Revolution Image 82 Map Pages 000 Museum at George C Marshall Mütter Museum 197 Photo Pages 000 Yorktown 364 Museum 372 Mystery Hole 390 443 National Air & Space Southampton Historical New Jersey 45, 157-81, 158 Carlyle House 346 Museum 250-1, 250 Museum 129 accommodations 157 Carnegie Hall National Constitution Star-Spangled Banner beaches 166, 168 (Lewisburg) 392 Center 191 Flag House & 1812 climate 157 Cathedral of National Geographic Museum 311 food 157 Learning 233 Museum 269 Textile Museum 263 highlights 158 Chrysler Building 69 National Great Blacks in

United States INDEX history 159 City Hall Wax Museum 311 Holocaust Memorial (Philadelphia) 197 travel seasons 157 National Museum of Museum 255 College of William & African American Wagner Free Institute of travel to/from 159 Mary 362 History & Culture  M-N Science 200 New River 389-93, 37 Ellwood Manor 349 252-3, 252 West Point Museum 136 New York City 11, 44,  Embassy Row 268-9 National Museum of 48-121, , , , West Virginia State 49 62 66-7 Empire State Building 69 American History 256 Museum 394 70-1, 74-5, 78-9, 82, Fallingwater 239-40, 230 National Museum of Women’s Rights National 84, 86-7, 4, 11 American Jewish Historical Park 144 accommodations 48, Flatiron Building 65 History 189 Zwaanendael 85-90 Ford’s Theatre 265 National Museum of Civil Museum 298 activities 83-4 Grand Central War Medicine 333 music 375, 400, 415-16, see climate 48 Terminal 68 National Museum of also individual styles Graycliff Estate 153 Natural History 256 drinking & nightlife 102-9 Guaranty Building 153 National Museum of the Independence Hall American Indian (New entertainment 109-14 N 184-5, 184 York City) 60 National Air & Space festivals & events 85 Kentuck Knob 240 National Museum of Museum 250-1, 250 food 38-9 Kykuit 134 the American Indian National Archives 263-4 48, 90-102 (Washington, DC) 258 highlights 49 Louis Armstrong National Cherry Blossom House 83 National Postal Museum Festival 26, 274 LGBTQ+ travelers 103 259-61 Martin House Complex medical services 118-19 National Gallery of Art 151-3 National September 11 247, 255 Memorial & Museum neighborhoods 50-1. 50 Maryland State National Mall 11, 247, 54-5, 54 shopping 114-18 House 321 255-9, 254, 10-11 National Toy Train sights 52-83 Masonic Temple 193 National Museum of Museum 225-6 tourist information 119 Monticello 357-8 African American Nauticus 366 tours 84-5 History & Culture Montpelier 359 Naval Station 252-3, 252 travel seasons 48 New York Public Norfolk 366 national parks & nature travel to/from 119-20 Library 69 New Jersey Museum of reserves, see also state travel within 61, 121 New York State Capitol Transportation 168 parks New York State 44, 122-56, 145-6 New York State Allegheny National 124-5 Old Jail Museum & Museum 145 Forest 232 accommodations 122 Visitor Center 337 Newseum 264-5 Dolly Sods climate 122 Pentagon 342 O. Winston Link Wilderness 385 Philipsburg Manor 134, Museum 374 food 122 Institute Woods 161 139 Ocean City Life-Saving highlights 124-5 Pollock-Krasner Station Museum 331 Mashomack Nature history 123 Preserve 131 House 128 Old Court House 304 travel seasons 122 Monongahela National Rockefeller Center 68 Old Fort Niagara 155 travel to/from 123 Forest 385-9 Rotunda 359 Old State House 305 travel within 123 New River Gorge Singer Castle 150 Penn Museum 198 weather 122 National River 389-90 Smithsonian Castle Newark 160-1 Please Touch Pinelands National 258-9 Museum 192 newspapers 423 Reserve 164 State Capitol Building Poe Museum 351 Sandy Hook Gateway Niagara Falls (Canada) 156 (Charleston) 394-5 Railroad Museum 225 National Recreation Niagara Falls (USA) 154-6, Sunnyside 134 Area 167 Ripley’s Believe it or 155 Supreme Court 259 Not! 175 Shenandoah National Norfolk 365-6 Union Station 261 Rosenbach Museum & Park 12, 356, 4, 12 North Fork 19, 131-2, 19 Library 197 United Nations 69 Sunken Forest 127 notable buildings Sag Harbor Whaling & US Capitol 259 National September 11 30th St Station 198-9 Historical Museum 128 Memorial & Museum Virginia State Capitol Apollo Theater 76-7 350-1 Science History 54-5, 54 Big Pink 136 Watergate Complex 263 Institute 189 Native Americans 401 Boldt Castle 149-50 White House 262-3 Skyscraper New Castle 304-5 Museum 60-1 Buffalo City Hall 151 Wyck 199 444 O Washington Square Park planning Seneca Rocks 386, 21 Obama, Barack 408 64-5 calendar of events 26-9 September 11, 2001 Ocean City 330-2 Wissahickon Valley children, travel with 41-3 54-5, 408 Park 193 Shenandoah National Park Ocean Grove 171-2, 170 climate 22, 26-9 Pennsyltucky 410-11 12, 356, 4, 12 offbeat attractions 25 itineraries 30-3 Pennsylvania 21, 45, 218- Shenandoah Valley 368-73, One World Observatory 60 regions 44-6

INDEX INDEX 44, 220-1 4, 12 opening hours 23, 427 travel seasons 22 accommodations 218 Shepherdstown 382-4 Orient Beach State plantations 367 climate 218 shoo-fly pie 39-40 Park 131 Pocahontas County 386-7

O-S food 39-40, 218 shootings 399-400  Oxford 326 Pocono Mountains 244, 418 highlights 220-1 Poe, Edgar Allan 200, skiing 37  history 219 311, 351 Skylab 251 P travel seasons 218 politics 398-9 smoking 428 Panhandle 380-5 travel to/from 219 Pollock, Jackson 128 Smyrna 302 parks & gardens, see also Pennsylvania Dutch 410 snakes 420 national parks & nature Port Discovery 315 Pennsylvania Dutch Snowshoe Mountain Resort reserves, state parks postal services 427-8 Country 21, 219-28, 386-7 Arboretum (State Potomac River 334 224, 21, 231 Solomons Island 338 College) 241 pretzels 210 road trip 224-7, 224 South Shore (Long Island) Assateague Island Princeton 161-3, 162 tourist information 219 123-8 National Seashore 329 Princeton University 161-2 Southampton 129 Battery Park 61 travel to/from 219 Southold 131 Brooklyn Botanic Pennsylvania Wilds 228-9 Garden 80 Pentagon 342 Q Southwest Virginia 374-6 Brooklyn Bridge Park 77 people 409-12 Queens 51, 82-3, 90, 102, Southwest Waterfront 258 108-9, 86-7 Carroll Creek Park 333 pepperoni rolls 39 sports 411-12 Central Park 56-7, 78-9, Philadelphia 45, 182-217, St Lawrence River Shore 56, 58-9 183, 190, 194-5, 198, R 149-51, 150 Constitution 202, 2, 230-1 radio 423 St Mary’s county 336-8 Gardens 257 accommodations 182, rafting 36 St Michaels 325-6 201-4 Cornell Botanic Rehoboth Beach 299-301 State College 241-2 activities 200-1 Gardens 142 Rhinebeck 138-9 state parks, see also climate 182 national parks & nature Dumbarton Oaks 269 Richmond 339, 350-7, drinking & nightlife reserves East Potomac Park 256 352-3 210-13 Assateague State Fairmount Park 192 ride-sharing 435 entertainment 213-14 Park 329 George Washington road trips, see also scenic festivals & events 201 Babcock State Park 390 Memorial Parkway 344 drives food 182, 204-10 Bald Eagle State Georgetown Waterfront Hudson Valley 134-9, 135 Park 269 highlights 183 Park 242 Pennsylvania Dutch Hudson River Park 64 history 188 Barnegat Lighthouse Country 224-7, 224 State Park 173 Independence National LGBTQ+ travelers 212 Roanoke 374-5 Bear Mountain State Historical Park 188 medical services 216 rock climbing 36-7, 386 Park 135 Longwood Gardens 243 shopping 214-16 Roosevelt, Franklin D 406 Beartown State Park 388 New York Botanical sights 184-200 Ross, Betsy 189 Garden 81-2 Big Pocono State tourist information Park 244 Philadelphia’s Magic 216-17 Gardens 193-5 Black Moshannon State tours 201 S Park 242 Phipps travel seasons 182 safety 23, 428 Conservatory 233 Blackwater Falls State travel to/from 217 ticks 165 Park 388 Prospect Park 77 travel within 188, 217 Sag Harbor 128-9 Brandywine Creek State Rail Park 199 Philadelphia Museum of Salisbury 327-8 Park 303-4 Rock Creek Park 271 Art 186-7, 186 sandwiches 208 Calvert Cliffs State Schuylkill Banks 197 Phoenicia 132-3 Sandy Hook 166-8 Park 338 Botanic phonecards 429 Saugerties 136 Cape Henlopen State Garden 257 Piedmont 350-60 scenic drives, see also road Park 297-8 United States National Pine Barrens 164-6, 418 trips Cape May Point State Arboretum 265 Park 179 Pinnacle Overlook 225 Blue Ridge Parkway 13, Cass Scenic Railroad pipe organs 175 376, 13 State Park 386 Pittsburgh 18, 232-9, Skyline Drive 356 Map Pages 000 Cheesequake State Park 234-5, 19 scrapple 40 Photo Pages 000 168-9 pizza 39, 101 Seneca Falls 144 445 Cherry Springs State time 22 entertainment 288-90 wildlife 419-20 Park 228 Times Square 65 festivals & events 274 wildlife parks & sanctuaries Coopers Rock State tipping 427 food 245, 277-84 Back Bay National Forest 396 toilets 429 highlights 246 Wildlife Refuge 367 Deep Creek Lake State tourist information 429, history 247 Blackwater National Park 335 see also individual LGBTQ+ travelers 289 Wildlife Refuge 327

Delaware Seashore State INDEX locations neighborhoods 248-9, Bombay Hook National Park 301 Wildlife Refuge 302 train travel 431, 435-6 248-9 First Landing State Canaan Valley National trekking, see hiking shopping 290-2 Park 367 Wildlife Refuge 385 Trans-Allegheny Lunatic sights 247, 250-71  S-Z Harriman State Park 135 Asylum 389 Cape May Bird

 tourist information Hawks Nest State Tribeca Film Festival 26, 85 Observatory 179-80 Park 390 292-3 Trump, Donald 408 Chincoteague National Island Beach State tours 273-4 Wildlife Refuge 365 tug-of-war 321 Park 172 travel seasons 245 Edwin B Forsythe Lehigh Gorge State turtles 420 travel to/from 293-4 National Wildlife Park 244 TV 423 travel within 247, 294 Refuge 173 State Tyler, Anne 318 Washington, George 403 Wildwood 177-9, 178 Park 229 water trails 337 Williamsburg 361-3, Liberty State Park 159 U waterfalls 362, 25 Montauk Point State universities & colleges Blackwater Falls 388 Wilmington 302-3 Park 130 Georgetown Cucumber Falls 240 wineries Orient Beach State University 269 Kaaterskill Falls 140 Crozet region 359 Park 131 Princeton University Niagara Falls Knapp Winery & Point Lookout State 161-2 (Canada) 156 Restaurant 144 Park 337 University of Virginia 358 Niagara Falls (USA) Lenz Winery 131 Robert H Treman State US Naval Academy 321 154-6, 155 Loudoun County Park 142 Virginia Military Watergate scandal 408 wineries 350 Robert Moses State Institute 372 Ox-Eye Vineyard Tasting Park 127 weather 22, 26-9 Washington & Lee Room 368 Swallow Falls State websites 23, 427 University 372 Pugliese Vineyards 131 Park 335 accessible travel 422 US Capitol 259 Upper Shirley Vineyards Trough Creek State accommodations 424 367 Park 242 blogs 406 winter sports 37 Washington Crossing canoeing 36 V Wissahickon Valley Park State Park 163-4 cycling 36 vacations 428 193 Whirlpool State Park Virginia 46, 339-76, 340-1 hiking 35 155-6 Woodstock 140-1 accommodations 339 history 407 Statue of Liberty 52-3, 52 Woodstock Music & Art climate 339 people 411 Fair 141 statues, see memorials, food 39, 339 rock climbing 37 monuments & statues Wright Brothers 250 highlights 340-1 sports 412 Wright, Frank Lloyd 414 Staunton 368-70, 369 history 342 surfing 37 Steampunk Treehouse 300 WWI 405 travel seasons 339 white-water rafting 36 Storm King Art Cente 136-7 WWII 406 travel to/from 342 weights 423 Strasburg 225-6 Virginia Beach 366-8, 15 West Nile virus 425 Sturgis Pretzel House 227 visas 22, 429 West Point 136 Y subway 436 Yankee Stadium 81 West Virginia 21, 46, 377- Yorktown 364-5 surfing 37 96, 378-9, 21 synagogues 200 W accommodations 377 walking, see hiking climate 377 Wallkill Valley 138 Z food 39, 377 zika virus 425 T Washington, DC 45, 245- Tannersville 133-40 highlights 378-9 zoos 94, 246, 254, 260, Tarrytown 134-5 history 380 Bronx Zoo 81 262-3, 266-7, 270, 272 travel seasons 377 taxis 435 accommodations 245, Central Park 56-7, 78-9, telephone services 428-9 274-7 travel to/from 380 56, 58-9 Thomas 388-9 activities 271-3 Weston 389 Maryland Zoo in Baltimore 315 Thousand Islands 20, 149- bikeshare 273 White House 262-3 National Zoo 271 51, 150, 20 climate 245 Whitesbog Village 165 ticks 165 drinking & nightlife white-water rafting 36 Tilghman Island 325-6 284-8 wild horses 330 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 446

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Brian Kluepfel New Jersey Brian had lived in three states and seven different residences by the time he was nine, and just kept moving, making stops in Berkeley, Bolivia, the Bronx and the ‘burbs further down the line. His journalistic work across the Americas has ranged from the Copa America soccer tournament in Paraguay to an accordion festival in Québec. His titles for LP include Venezuela, Costa Rica, Belize & Guate- mala, Bolivia and Ecuador. He writes a blog about Venezuelan baseball players and another regarding birds of many nations called www.brianbirdwatching.blogspot.com.

Ali Lemer New York City Ali has been a Lonely Planet writer and editor since 2007, and has authored guidebooks and travel articles on Russia, NYC, Los Angeles, Melbourne, Bali, Hawaii, Japan and Scotland. A native New Yorker and naturalized Melburni- an, Ali has also lived in Chicago, Prague and the UK, and has traveled extensively around Europe and North America.

Virginia Maxwell Washington, DC, Virginia Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediterranean is her major area of interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for Lonely Planet – but she also covers Finland, Bali, Armenia, the Netherlands, the USA and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Simon Richmond Philadelphia Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s, covering countries including Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. He has lived in the UK, Japan and Australia, and is now based back in the UK in Folkestone on the east Kent coast. His travel features have been published in newspapers and magazines around the world, including in the UK’s Independent, Guardian, Times, Daily Telegraph and Royal Geographical Society Magazine, and in Australia’s Sydney Morning Herald and Australian newspapers and Australian Financial Review magazine.

Regis St Louis New York City Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him @regisstlouis on Instagram.

Karla Zimmerman Washington, DC Karla lives in Chicago, where she eat doughnuts and yells at the Cubs, and writes stuff for books, magazines and websites when she’s not doing the first two things. She has contributed to 70-plus guidebooks and travel anthologies covering destinations in Europe, Asia, Africa, North America and the Caribbean. To learn more, follow her @karlazimmerman on Instagram and Twitter.

Contributing Writer Michael Grosberg AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Amy C Balfour Delaware, Maryland, West Virginia Amy practiced law in Virginia before moving to Los Angeles to try to break in as a screenwriter. After a stint as a writer’s assis- tant on Law & Order, she jumped into freelance writing, focusing on travel, food and the outdoors. She has hiked, biked and paddled across Southern California and the Southwest, and recently criss-crossed the Great Plains in search of the region’s best burgers and barbecue. Books authored or co-authored include Lonely Planet’s Los Angeles Encounter, Los Angeles & Southern California, Caribbean Islands, California, California Trips, USA, USA’s Best Trips and Arizona. Amy’s essays have appeared in the Los Angeles Times and Southern Living, and the travel anthologies Go Your Own Way and The Thong Also Rises.

Robert Balkovich New York City, New York State Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and grandma’s house he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and travel enthusiast seeking experiences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on. Instagram: @oh_balky

Ray Bartlett New York City Ray has been a travel writer for nearly two decades, bringing Ja- pan, Korea, Mexico and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook (RayBartlettAuthor), Twitter (@kaisora dotcom) or Instagram (@kaisoradotcom).

Adam Karlin Pennsylvania Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, crime, politics, arche- ology and the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) and his essays and articles have featured on the BBC and NPR, and in multiple non-fiction anthologies. Adam is based out of New Orleans, which helps explain his love of wetlands, food and good music. Learn more at http://walkonfine.com, or follow @adamwalkonfine on Instagram.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 1st edition – March 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 737 5 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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