©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd New York & the Mid-Atlantic New York State p122 Pennsylvania p218 # New York City Philadelphia p48 p182 # New Jersey p157 Maryland p307 #_ West Virginia Washington, DC Delaware p295 p377 p245 Virginia p339 Amy C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Ray Bartlett, Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Ali Lemer, Virginia Maxwell, Simon Richmond, Regis St Louis, Karla Zimmerman PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to New York NEW YORK CITY . 48 North Fork & & the Mid-Atlantic . 6 Shelter Island . 131 Sights . 52 Catskills . 132 New York & the Activities . 83 Mid-Atlantic map . 8 Phoenicia & Sleeping . 85 Mt Tremper . 132 New York & the Eating . 90 Mid-Atlantic’s Top 22 . 10 Tannersville . 133 Drinking & Nightlife . 102 Need to Know . 22 Woodstock . 140 Entertainment . 109 Finger Lakes . 141 If You Like . 24 Shopping . 114 Ithaca . 141 Month By Month . 26 Getting There & Away . 119 Seneca Falls . 144 Itineraries . 30 The Adirondacks . 144 Outdoor Activities . 34 NEW YORK STATE . 122 Albany . 145 Long Island . 123 Lake George . 147 Eat & Drink Like a Local . 38 South Shore . 123 Lake Placid . 148 The Hamptons . 128 Lake Ontario & Travel with Children . 41 Montauk . 129 Thousand Islands . 149 Regions at a Glance . 44 JOHN M CHASE/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES CHASE/GETTY M JOHN SEAN PAVONE/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES PAVONE/GETTY SEAN BLUE CRAB, CHESAPEAKE BAY (P331), MARYLAND DAVE NEWMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK © NEWMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK DAVE MARTIN LUTHER KING JR MEMORIAL (P256), WASHINGTON, DC Contents St Lawrence Asbury Park . 168 Shopping . 214 River Shore . 149 Ocean Grove . 171 Getting There & Away . 217 Western New York . 151 Barnegat Peninsula . 172 Buffalo . 151 Long Beach Island . 173 PENNSYLVANIA . 218 Niagara Falls . 154 Atlantic City . 174 Pennsylvania Dutch Wildwood . 177 Country . 219 NEW JERSEY . 157 Cape May . 179 Lancaster . 219 Northern New Jersey . 159 Pennsylvania Wilds . 228 Hoboken . 159 Western PHILADELPHIA . 182 Pennsylvania . 229 Newark . 160 Sights . 184 Pittsburgh . 232 Princeton . 161 Activities . 200 Laurel Highlands . 239 Lambertville . 163 Tours . 201 Central Pennsylvania . 241 Pine Barrens . 164 Sleeping . 201 State College . 241 Jersey Shore . 166 Eating . 204 Southeastern Sandy Hook . 166 Drinking & Nightlife . 210 Pennsylvania . 242 Brandywine Valley . 243 Upstate & the Poconos . 244 WASHINGTON, DC . 245 Sights . 247 Activities . 271 Tours . 273 Sleeping . 274 Eating . 277 Drinking & Nightlife . 284 Entertainment . .288 Shopping . 290 Getting There & Away . 293 DELAWARE . 295 Delaware Coast . 297 Wilmington . 302 Brandywine Valley . 303 New Castle . 304 Dover . 305 MARYLAND . 307 Baltimore . 310 PHILADELPHIA (P182), Annapolis . 320 PENNSYLVANIA Eastern Shore . 325 ON THE ROAD JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK © JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK SHENANDOAH VALLEY, (P368) VIRGINIA PNG-STUDIO/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES PNG-STUDIO/GETTY © LITTLENYSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK INDEPENDENCE DAY PARADE (P274), WASHINGTON, DC Contents UNDERSTAND St Michaels & VIRGINIA . 339 New York & the Tilghman Island . 325 Mid-Atlantic Today . 398 Northern Virginia . 342 Cambridge . .. 326 Arlington . 342 History . 401 Salisbury . 327 Alexandria . 344 People & Culture . 409 Berlin . 328 Fredericksburg . 348 Assateague Island . 329 Arts & Architecture . 413 The Piedmont . 350 Ocean City . 330 Landscapes & Wildlife . 417 Richmond . 350 Western Maryland . 332 Charlottesville . 357 Frederick . 332 Historic Triangle . 360 Cumberland . 334 Williamsburg . 361 Southern Maryland . 336 Jamestown . 363 Leonardtown & Yorktown . 364 St Mary’s County . 336 SURVIVAL Solomons Island & Hampton Roads . 365 Calvert County . 338 Norfolk . 365 GUIDE Virginia Beach . 366 Shenandoah Valley . 368 Directory A-Z . 422 Staunton . 368 Transportation . 430 Lexington . 371 Index . 439 Blue Ridge Highlands & Southwest Virginia . 374 Roanoke . 374 Abingdon . 375 WEST VIRGINIA . 377 Eastern Panhandle . 380 Harpers Ferry . 380 Shepherdstown . 382 Berkeley Springs . 384 SPECIAL Monongahela FEATURES National Forest . 385 Outdoor Activities . 34 Canaan Valley . 385 Snowshoe & Eat & Drink Pocahontas County . 386 Like a Local . 38 Thomas & Davis . 388 Road Trip: New River & the Hudson Valley . 134 Greenbrier Valley . 389 Road Trip: Pennsylvania New River Gorge Dutch Country . 224 National River . 389 People & Culture . 409 Fayetteville . 391 Lewisburg . 391 Arts & Architecture . 413 Charleston . 393 Landscapes & Wildlife . 417 NEW YORK CITY (P48) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 30 Itineraries PENNSYLVANIA NEW YORK CONNECTICUT OHIO RHODE ISLAND OHIO PENNSYLVANIA MARYLAND WEST VIRGINIA NEW JERSEY NROCKS DISTRICT OF •# COLUMBIA WEST VIRGINIA Greenbrier River TrailM•#ARYLAND Shenandoah ÷# National Park Greenbrier É NROCKS DISTRICT OF River •# COLUMBIA DELAWARE New River Trail É Gorge •# •# New É River Gorge ÷# Shenandoah •# Humpback Rocks National National River ÷# National Park N O R T H É Blue Ridge Parkway River AT L A N T I C ÷# •# •#Humpback Rocks Blue Ridge O C E A N Parkway VIRGINIA VIRGINIA NORTH CAROLINA 1 WEEK Mountain Adventures This trip is for those who like their nature ancient and wild: timbered mountains, raging rivers and towering rock formations. In Virginia, kick off with a few days at Shenandoah National Park. This sliver of gorgeousness straddles the Blue Ridge Mountains, so named for their color when glimpsed in the hazy cerulean distance. Soak up the beauty driving the scenic Skyline Drive and pull over to hike a few miles, winding past spring wildflowers, summer water- falls and fiery fall leaves. Drive south of the park to climb the iconic Humpback Rocks beside the Blue Ridge Parkway. Cruise a few hours north to the sprawling Monongahela National Forest in wet and wild West Virginia, where you can rock climb Seneca Rocks, tackle a fixed-anchor via ferrata trail at NROCKS or pedal the Greenbrier River Trail. From here, drive over rugged mountains to New River Gorge National River. End this trip rafting the wild Gauley River or the scenic New River, which is really very old. Outfitters provide white- water rafting gear for the Class V rapids. 31 MASSACHUSETTS NEW CONNECTICUT YORK RHODE Greenport ISLAND •# •#Montauk PENNSYLVANIA É PLAN YOUR TRIP Ù# Sandy Hook NEW JERSEY •#Jersey Shore MARYLAND É WEST VIRGINIA DISTRICT OF Lewes •# Cape May COLUMBIA •#÷# Cape Henlopen State Park IT DELAWARE •# Rehoboth I ÷# Fenwick Island State Park NERAR Ocean City•# •# Assateague VIRGINIA É Island I AT L A N T I C ES O C E A N ÷#First Landing State Park ÷# Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge NORTH CAROLINA 2 WEEKS Exploring the Coast This region isn’t named the Mid-Atlantic for nothing. New York, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland and Virginia all border the Atlantic Ocean. Their beaches and beach towns each have something unique to offer. Escape the urban jungle of New York City with three days at the pretty beaches of Greenport and Montauk on Long Island. Next up is four days on the wild strands of the infamous Jersey Shore, which is dotted with resort towns stretching south from wide-beached Sandy Hook to Cape May, where bird-watching and whale-watching (May to December) are top-notch. Hop the Cape May-Lewes Ferry to continue south for three relaxing days in Delaware. In Lewes, Delaware, explore the historic downtown then bike ride to The Point at Cape Henlopen State Park. The next day, drive to Rehoboth and take a stroll on the tourist-trappy boardwalk. Don’t miss a beer sampling at famous Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats before a fine seafood dinner on Wilmington Ave. Just south, enjoy an ocean swim at Fenwick Island State Park. Continue south to spend two days in coastal Maryland. In Ocean City things get wild on another festive boardwalk. The scene is more serene on Assateague Island. Wild horses run free on the Maryland side of this barrier island, while the Virginia section is home to a wildlife refuge. Drive south across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel – hold tight! – to camp at First Landing State Park just steps from the sand. To conclude the trip, take your pick: a convivial boardwalk-and-beach day in Virginia Beach or a quiet hike in the remote Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge. 32 NEW PENNSYLVANIA JERSEY •# New Castle MARYLAND É É PLAN YOUR TRIP •# WEST Dover VIRGINIA WASHINGTON, DC #_ •#Annapolis •#Mount É DELAWARE Vernon Montpelier•# Charlottesville •# IT I NERAR É •# É Colonial AT L A N T I C Richmond Williamsburg O C E A N I VIRGINIA •# ES •# •# Jamestown Yorktown NORTH CAROLINA 2 WEEKS Colonial Days Tour The roots of the USA’s government took hold in riverside Colonial towns and valley vil- lages where the Founding Fathers lived, learned and legislated. Begin with three days in the Tidewater region of Virginia, where you can brush up on Colonial-era history. Start in Jamestown, where Pocahontas helped the New World’s first English settlement survive, then head to Yorktown to learn about the decisive battle that ended the Revo- lutionary War. From here it’s a short drive to Colonial Williamsburg where you can wander through an 18th-century village come to life with costumed reenactors. Your next four days will be spent exploring the low-lying Piedmont region of Vir- ginia. Your first stop is Richmond, where Patrick Henry gave his impassioned ‘Give Me Liberty, or Give Me Death’ speech in St John’s Episcopal Church in 1775. Then visit the Virginia State Capitol, designed by Thomas Jefferson. Drive west to Charlottesville to explore gorgeous Monticello, Jefferson’s revered mountaintop home. Honor the wine- loving third president with a glass at a pretty winery. Spectacular Montpelier,