Corsica - The Scented Isle Naturetrek Tour Report 30 April - 7 May 2017 Corsican Fire Salamander Group at Col de Sevi Long-lipped Tongue-orchid Woodlark Report & images compiled by Andrew Bray Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Corsica - The Scented Isle Tour participants: Andrew Bray & Richard Lansdown (leaders) with 11 Naturetrek clients Day 1 Sunday 30th April After a flight from London Gatwick we arrived at Bastia airport, where Tongue Orchids were outside the entrance. Arranging the vehicles took a little longer than expected, but once sorted we were on our way, heading to Ponte Leccia. Here we had a coffee stop and Andrew bought some cheese, meat and bread. We then headed across the top of the island to l’Ile-Rousse, where we stopped at the farmer’s market to buy fruit and salad. We then pushed on to our lunch stop near Galeria. Here we saw a variety of birds, wall lizards and some endemic plants: Corsican Storksbill (Erodium corsicum) and Sea Lavender (Limonium corsicum). We then drove a few hundred yards to see if there was a way down to some wetland, but unfortunately there was not. We did hear Cetti’s Warbler and saw a pair of Long-tailed Tits. Our next stop was on the coastal road at one of the U bends at the head of one of the many valleys we had to negotiate. Here were even more endemic plants, though we stopped for the Wild Vine (Vitis riparia) and saw the Illyrian Sea Lily (Pancratium Illyricum). We also saw Coal Tit and Sardinian Warbler. We stopped again for photographs near a graveyard where the views of La Calanche were stunning. We found a boulangerie (bakers) in Porto that served proper ice cream. We then headed inland to Evisa and our hotel; Atoine. At night we dined on salad, trout with rice and apple tart. Day 2 Monday 1st May It was dry until just before 9am, which was the time we had set to start a walk down the road to the graveyard. It then rained for three hours! We divided the food for lunch between us and then started the descent down the Spelunca Gorge. The path descended steeply through mature maquis under a canopy of Tree Heather (Erica arborea) and Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo), where the differences between Corsican Pine (Pinus nigra subsp. Laricio) and Maritime Pine (Pinus pinaster) were shown. Botanical highlights included Cyclamen repandum, the delicate endemic Snowflake (Acis longifolia) and the curious flowers of Tyrrhenian Birthwort (Aristolochia tyrrhena). Progress was slow as it was very wet with constant rain. We saw the endemic Corsican Fire Salamander before it hid itself in the vegetation. We also saw lots of strange plants such as Jersey Toadflax (Linaria pelisseriana), and endemic plants including False Daisy (Bellium bellidioides). We all had good views of a Firecrest with its red crest. As we neared the bottom it stopped raining and the sun came out. Lunch was taken at the Zaglia Bridge in the sun. Everyone had something to dry! There were stands of Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis) by the river bridge. After lunch we walked to the road bridge and everyone saw Dipper whilst scores of Crag Martins and House Martins were flying about. Some of us then drove to Ota for a coffee whilst others walked to the Ponte a Pianella before being ferried to the cafe. Half an hour later the first minibus trip departed for Evisa. On the road were pigs and dogs, whilst on the second trip there were cows. We had to go round them as they stood their ground in the road; some were lying down! The first group was dropped off at the graveyard to look for birds. We heard Wryneck and saw Pied and Spotted Flycatchers, Whinchat and Redstart. A text was sent so the second group could look for them as well; they were not disappointed. © Naturetrek May 17 1 Tour Report Corsica - The Scented Isle We met later at 7.15pm to do the checklist. We managed to do the bird list and other fauna before a dinner of soup, boar with polenta (maize) and chestnut pudding. The plants had to wait! Day 3 Tuesday 2nd May We started with an early morning bird walk where we saw our first Treecreeper of the day. There were plenty of tits, and a Great Spotted Woodpecker put on a show. There were not many Cirl Buntings, but we made up for that a bit later. The first stop today was in the Aitone Forest where we walked along a track. We saw Firecrest and Corsican Mint (Mentha requinii). At the rock plateau we had good views of the fat green Bedriaga Lizard as well as Corsican Finch and a very large flock of Corsican Crossbills. The rocks were full of pools from the rain and some held species such as the endemic Short-leaved Stonecrop (Sedum brevifolium), as well as some aquatics. We then headed to Col de Savi where we looked for warblers, but found Raven, Corsican Finch and Cirl Bunting. There was also the endemic Thymus herba-barona with a lovely lemon scent. As it was a bit cool and breezy, we headed down the hill and found another lunch spot off the road. On arrival we disturbed two Red- legged Partridges. Following lunch, we drove down to the coast and stopped just before the bridge over the River Liamone. Here we saw a couple of Little Ringed Plovers plus a host of other birds and plants. We then drove over the bridge and parked in the cafe car park near the beach. Whilst we had coffee, one member went for a swim in the river and another paddled their feet: it was a bit chilly! We found various endemic plants, though the Jersey Orchid (Anacamptis laxiflora) had already turned. We saw Tawny Pipit, Sardinian Warbler, Peregrine, Shag and Sanderling. A lone Golden Plover flew over and Bee-eaters settled in a dead tree, ready for the telescopes. On the way back we stopped at the Sagone rubbish tip where there were lots of Ravens and Red Kites. After another wonderful day we dined on dried meats, then Corsican omelette with vegetables, followed by fresh fruit salad. Day 4 Wednesday 3rd May We departed in the sun, but it was not to last. At Col de Vergio we had superb views of Woodlark and Corsican Finch. There were lots of endemic plants amongst the flat Juniper close to the ground including the Corsican Crocus (Crocus corsicus). Two Golden Eagles flew overhead, and on the other side of the valley, four female Mouflon grazed. The cloud started to roll in, but on our way down the mountain the sun started shining again. We stopped as the forest was ending for a comfort break and shed some of our clothing. The pigs and cows beat a retreat in disgust! We looked for butterflies and moths, and had good views of Queen of Spain Fritillary. Our next stop was in the Santa Regina Gorge with the endemic Saxifraga Corsica, Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martin and a Golden Eagle. A Dipper flew over the bridge rather than under! It was a great place to have lunch, though the cloud started to cover the sky. 2 © Naturetrek May 17 Corsica - The Scented Isle Tour Report Our next stop was in the maquis near Francardo, with Corsican Milkwort (Polygala nicaeensis subsp. Corsica). More plants were added to the list including Green-winged Orchid (Anacamptis morio), Pink Butterfly Orchid (Anacamptis papilionacea subsp. Papilionacea), Early Spider Orchid (Ophrys incubacea) and Provence Orchid (Orchis provincialis). A Marmora’s Warbler flew by the side of the road. Not long after starting the next leg, it started to rain. We therefore drove direct to our next hotel, and after some juggling, everybody had a bed to sleep in! In the evening we drove up to see a Corsican Nuthatch nest before returning to the hotel. Later we dined on boar with pasta, and lemon meringue pie. Day 5 Thursday 4th May We had an early morning bird walk and saw Dipper, Grey Wagtail, Coal Tit, Raven and several other birds, though the noise of the river made it difficult to hear the birds. At breakfast we discovered the road ahead was closed due to a rock fall and would not be cleared this week. This meant a change of plan for Days 6 and 7. Today was to plan and we set off for the Verghello Valley and stopped at Eiffel Bridge. We watched the local two-carriage train cross the bridge, heading north. We walked a short way and then the vehicles picked us up and we drove a little further. Moltoni’s Warbler sung and there were brief glimpses as it skulked in the bushes. There were good views of Spotted Flycatcher and Great Spotted Woodpecker. Next stop was by a bridge by wetland where we found a Hemp-agrimony (Eupatorium cannabinum subsp. Corsicum) and Long-lipped Tongue-orchid (Serapias vomeracea). We then drove to another bridge and walked down the road by running water with Tongue-orchid (Serapias lingua) and Wedge-lipped Orchid (Dactylorhiza saccifera). There was also the rare Creeping Marshwort (Apium repens). We finally drove to a helicopter landing site at the end of the metalled road for lunch with panoramic views. After lunch we headed for the Beech forest at Col de Vizzavona at 1,163 metres.