February 2012 INSIDE THIS MONTH

Pag. Prosecco_Drinks_International_Cover_V2.pdf 1 24/01/12 16.28 Volume 40 Issue 2 The No.1 choice for global drinks buyers

World’s best bars A round-up of the best whisky bars around the globe

Liqueurs more growth for this newly cool sector

PISCO taking the South American spirit to new markets zoninprosecco.com Contents

Agile Media Ltd, Zurich House, East Park, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 6AS +44(0) 1293 590040 drinksint.com 7

Bricks, clicks and verdicts

t seems to have been a long month. The pagans got it right by inventing a celebration around the winter solstice, the 20 Ishortest day, up here in the Northern Hemisphere. Christmas is a long time ago now and one senses the days are starting to lengthen. Brian Croser, News 25 Liqueurs one of the founding fathers of the modern Australian wine 05 Business News A huge, disparate sector that continues industry and now one of the world’s leading wine consultants, 08 Travel Retail News to grow, thanks to cocktails’ increasing has been opining on the importance of diurnal temperatures 10 What’s New popularity. Patience Gould reports for making quality wine. To expand on that, basically if you have reasonable Analysis 30 German Wine temperature extremes – hot days and cool, bordering on cold, 07 Infrastructure in Scotland Vorsprung durch technik – progress nights – you are most likely to get top quality grapes. You have Nothing about Minis but Diageo’s through technology. German winemakers vigorous growth when it is warm and sunny, then the cool nights new barrel plant does look like a car know how to make the best of being a shut down the vine and force it to rest. Simple. And this reminds production line. Lucy Britner reports niche producer, says Christian Davis us that, for all our apparent sophistication, we are all still simple souls. Warmth, sunshine, longer days – we respond like a seed Profile 36 ProWein Preview germinating or a bulb bursting into life. 12 Ronnie Cox Dusseldorf is not just the home of the Similarly, the drinks industry is starting to come back to Berry Bros & Rudd Spirits’ Ronnie Cox Mercedes-Benz. Messe Düsseldorf life, having taken stock and calculated whether it had a good, has peered down a barrel as well. But a organises nearly one fifth of all the world‘s bad or indifferent 2011 and crucially Christmas. South American gun barrel. Hamish Smith premier trade shows, including ProWein With so many economies still struggling and businesses going talks to the man bust, 2012 isn’t likely to be any better than what has just gone 41 The World’s Best Whisky Bars before. There is only so much some can take. The strong and Features Jonathan Driver, the James Bond of resilient, those with quality, value-for-money products that 16 Pisco whisky, unveils his Aston Martin of consumers need or really want, will forge ahead. Stuck betwen Peru and Chile this South whisky bars Overlying all of this is the fact that the fundamental change American white spirit made from grapes in patterns of buying and selling, from bricks to clicks, is is a victim of history and geography. 48 From Our Own Correspondent happening so quickly you need to be a near genius to keep Hamish Smith takes to his Andean pipes Outlining the success of WSET’s ahead of the curve, or mouse, or smart phone. International Wine Educator of the Year Have a great rest of the year! 20 Design & Packaging Cars again but this time Rolls Royces. 50 Going for Gould Christian Davis Editor What has Lucy Britner discovered about Scotch in Japan – is there a lesson to be the latest drinks packaging trends? learned, asks Patience Gould february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 3 for breaking news visit drinksint.com News  Vinexpo reveals NY show details E Diageo pumps 153m nternational wine and spirits exhibition producers to sell alcohol direct to consumers into Dublin brewery Vinexpo has announced it will introduce a under the US three-tier system. Exhibitors will Ibusiness-to-consumer wine tasting event in have to refer interested consumers to the local iageo has announced a €153 million investment into New York in November. distributor. Da ‘brewing centre of excellence’ at its St James Gate Rendez-vous by Vinexpo takes place at He sees the show as primarily for wine lovers brewery, Dublin. the Javits Center, 655 West 34th Street, on who want to know and taste more but he also Beer production will be concentrated at the site, rising November 16, 17 and 18. It is expected to expected major brand owners to be present at to 7m hectoliters, while brewing at Diageo’s Dundalk and showcase 150 exhibitors and attract 5,000-6,000 Rendez-vous to cater for new wine consumers. Kilkenny sites will stop in July 2013 and December 2013 visitors in the run-up to the Thanksgiving and Beynat revealed that R-V New York will be respectively, subject to planning and construction timelines Christmas holidays. the first of several. He cited London and Tokyo at St James’s Gate. Consumers will be asked to pay US$180 a day as likely future venues, with the second event Diageo has also completed the acquisition of the Meta and attendance at one of the masterclasses will around 2013/14. He said they fitted the profile Abo Brewery in Ethiopia for US$225 million. cost a further $300. Exhibitors will pay $6,000 of sufficient interested consumers within an hour to show their wares. of the city. Vinexpo CEO Robert Beynat said exhibitors He cheerfully ruled out Paris, quipping it was White Zinfandel rosé will not be able to sell wine as it is illegal for “too close to Bordeaux”, therefore not necessary. gets EU green light

he European Union has ratified the use of the rosé wine Scotch launches Tlabelling term White Zinfandel, following lobbying by ngus Dundee distillers has launched a the WSTA and Diageo. A range of whiskies under the Charles A dispute broke out last year over the validity of the term, Hamilton brand. It features Speyside, Highland, as White Zinfandel is not a grape variety. Islay and Lowland regions, has been bottled at Italian authorities impounded a “small volume” of 40%abv and will available in “key European, Blossom Hill’s White Zinfandel Rosé, but following duty free and selected world markets”. The negotiations at a US/EU bilateral trade agreement meeting range is to retail £18-£22 or €22-€26 per in November, the term has been officially recognised in the bottle. EU. The impounded stock has since been released. Glenfiddich Malt Master’s Edition has been released by William Grant & Sons to celebrate Glenfiddich’s sixth malt master, Brian Kinsman. CEDC and SPI Group For more scotch launches see page 10. find new partners entral European Distribution Corporation has signed a Altia buys Xanté to reinforce Nordic base Cfive-year agreement to distribute Beam’s Jim Beam and Maker’s Mark bourbons, Sauza tequila and Teacher’s scotch Altia Plc is buying the Xanté Company and the Xanté years in barrels made from the French Limousine in Poland. Meanwhile, SPI Group has agreed a deal with A spirits brand from the Swedish Tilander family. oak, will help reinforce its position in the Nordic Brand New Day Drinks Company to distribute Stolichnaya The company says Xanté, which is a blend of alcoholic beverage business and will play an key premium vodka, flavoured, Gold and Elit in the Netherlands. sweet Belgium pears and cognac matured for four role in Altia’s international portfolio development.

Chivas Bros has Challenge has opened introduced global Tea The US arm of Japanese The Wine & Spirit for entries. The blind News Salon experiential events drinks company Suntory Education Trust named its tasting is carried out by to target advocacy has joined US trade International Educator of an independent panel among bartenders for its group the Distilled Spirits the Year as Fine Vintage, that judges on taste, In Brief Beefeater 24 brand. The Council (DISCUS). Suntory the Vancouver, Canada- appearance and aroma. super-premium gin is now International is the 13th full based approved programme Contact Samantha Briney available in 50 countries. member of DISCUS. Others provider run by James Cluer by February 29 on 01293 Industry stories from include Bacardi, Beam and (see page 48). 590053 or samantha. Diageo. [email protected] around the globe The International Cider

FEBRUARY 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 5 News for breaking news visit drinksint.com 

Top 5 stories on drinksint.com 1 World’s 50 Best Bars 2011 announced 2 Direct Wines reshapes team 3 Russian Standard moves into wine 4 Stoli launches The Himalayan Edition 5. Label 5 to be distributed by CEDC  6 Drinks International drinksint.com FEBRUARY 2012 Analysis Infrastructure in Scotland Making staves Asian demand for whisky has boosted investment in Scotland, says Lucy Britner

sia, Asia, Asia. That’s all we read about these days. A recent headline from UK newspaper The Guardian reads: “Exports galore – sales of scotch to Asia riseA so fast that supplies may run short”. Scottish newspaper Herald Scotland went with: “Asian boom fuels distiller’s earnings.” You get the idea. So sales are flying, the luxury end is up and emerging middle classes are splashing the cash in the bars and shops. But what does it all mean on the ground in Scotland? How does a luxuriously packaged bottle, costing hundreds of pounds, on the table of a glamorous bar in Hong Kong, translate to warehouses and cooperages down single track roads in chilly Scotland? Mechanical conveyors have transformed the cooperage production process for Diageo Infrastructure is the answer. Companies are investing heavily in bigger, better, faster bottling be fair to link this development to the company’s the site alongside the creation of some additional lines, sustainable distilleries and new cooperages. performance outlined in Diageo’s most recent annual 400 full-time equivalent jobs. It represents a further Most recently, Diageo announced the opening of results (published in August 2011). The results £5m investment and also a number of additional a £10m ($15.5m) cooperage in Cambus. The site is read: “Diageo’s growth in Asia Pacific was driven jobs will be created. Construction has commenced near Blackgrange – a facility that warehouses some 3 by scotch, in particular the super deluxe segment and is due to be completed in the summer of 2012.” million of Diageo’s 7 million casks in Scotland. in emerging markets; Johnnie Walker also saw an The new cooperage looks like a car manufacturing increase of 16% in volume and 12% in net sales. Money pours into premium spirits plant – not surprising considering the company “In Korea, Diageo outperformed a declining scotch Diageo isn’t the only company splashing the big bucks worked with UK-based engineering firm CI Logistics, market with Windsor 12 extending its leadership in Scotland to provide for the Asian boom. Chivas which works primarily in the automotive industry. position, and in China, Diageo’s scotch brands Brothers – the premium gin and scotch whisky arm of Together they custom-designed a series of mechanical gained share in the standard, deluxe and especially Pernod Ricard – has spent tens of millions of pounds. conveyors to move the casks – which weigh up to the super deluxe segment where incremental Christian Porta, chairman and CEO of Chivas 85kg when empty. The skill of the cooper remains marketing spend drove 41% net sales growth in the Brothers, said: “On average we invest up to £40m a utilised, but the heavy work is no longer a factor. whisky segment.” year in our operations facilities. On top of the £10m The cooperage will turn out approximately John Paterson, site director at Leven said: “We investment in distilling capacity at The Glenlivet in 250,000 casks each year. were granted planning permission in early October 2010, there has been significant investment across That’s not all. The company has also been granted to expand our bottling facilities. This work is part both our bottling sites in new machinery to improve planning permission to expand bottling facilities. of our overall restructuring plans that will ensure efficiency and quality.” Diageo is to spend £5m on a bottling line in Leven the long-term sustainability of our operations in Porta talked about the company’s high aged and which is to focus on luxury products. It would Scotland. It builds on the £86m already invested in limited edition products and said the company is in a “strong position to deliver” against this demand in Asia with its Chivas Regal, Ballantine’s and Royal Salute brands. Porta said Chivas has introduced “at least five” permanent lines aged from 15 to 45 years old in the past five years as well as “strongly growing” its existing portfolio of luxury aged scotch whiskies. He added: “The commercial success of permanent products such as Royal Salute 62 Gun Salute at $2,500 (£1,608) in duty free has certainly demonstrated the demand is there.” Clearly both drinks companies were Scouts and Diageo’s new cooperage in Cambus will turn out 250,000 casks a year remember the motto: “Be prepared.” february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 7 Travel Retail

DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE Jacob’s Creek toasts Chinese New Year

Pernod Ricard Pacific Travel Retail presented to customers in silk-lined presentation boxes.  celebrated Chinese New Year (January 23) As part of the promotion, Pernod partnered with with a major promotion on Jacob’s Creek wine at glassware manufacturer Riedel to offer consumers Sydney international airport. stemless glasses as part of a Prestige Vintage The activation in The Nuance Group’s main Collection magnum pack, which also contained a departures store included a sampling bar and magnum bottle from the vintage range, as well as a educational booklets on the Jacob’s Creek range for normal-sized 75cl bottle. travellers in both Chinese and English. Prices for these magnum packs, which were The brand’s vintage collection, which includes St presented in a lockable black case wrapped with a Hugo, Centenary Hill, Johann and Limited Release ribbon bearing the message ‘Happy Chinese New wines, formed the heart of the promotion and were Year’, started at A$400 (£270). Chivas promo at Delhi Duty Free Patrón eyes India’s largest single travel retailer Delhi Duty Free has launched a major Chivas Regal promotion with Pernod Ricard at Delhi airport’s Terminal 3. Rome listing The two-month Art of Hosting activation, which ends this month, gives five couples buying a bottle of Chivas Regal 12, 18 or 25 Year Old the chance to win a luxury, for 2012 five-day trip to either Paris, Milan, Amsterdam, Prague or Barcelona. The offer also features $8 off a purchase of two bottles of Chivas Regal 12 Year Old atrón Spirits International has revealed and $6 off a bottle of Chivas Regal 18 Year Old. Pthat gaining a listing at Rome’s Fiumicino airport is one of its key European travel retail targets during 2012. Securing a presence at Italy’s busiest airport hub was one of Patrón’s top three priorities First person within European travel retail, alongside Paris Follador Prosecco marketing director Cristina Follador Charles de Gaulle airport and Greece, both of which it managed to achieve. In a couple of sentences what does and introducing the brand to because it offered premium “Within Europe, Rome is definitely a travel your job involve? international markets. This gives me products without duty. Over retail market we’re hoping to penetrate I am the main point of contact for a great degree of pride. We all feel the years, as domestic markets in 2012,” said Mike Hill, Patrón Spirits both our domestic and international a sense of pride in maintaining the have developed and accessed vice-president for Europe, Africa and customers. I am responsible for traditions of our forefathers. products globally, I feel the all winery tours and viewings for What was the most useful piece of impact of travel retail has been the Middle East. “We’re also focused individuals and companies. I handle advice you have been given in your somewhat diluted. on further increasing Patrón XO the day-to-day communications career so far? The key challenge is for travel Café listings in those locations between the family and the generic Our father has always instilled in us retail to offer truly unique and yet to take it.” Prosecco body [the Consorzio the passion to continually produce quality-driven products. The Commenting on the wider per la Tutela di Conegliano- only the finest wines. I remember international traveller is an early Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore], him saying: “Never compromise adopter and is looking to discover outlook for growth within the keeping up to date with all sector quality.” To this day I always refer to the finest quality products. European travel retail market developments. this quote. What is the most memorable thing during 2012, Hill said the What do you like most about your What book is on your bedside table you’ve ever drunk? eurozone economic crisis was role at Follador? right now? I have always enjoyed the Barbera I enjoy direct contact with The Pillars of the Earth by Ken wines from Piedmont, and I a concern. customers. My role has developed in Follett. remember asking my father in the “We’ve weathered tough economic the past couple of years, and I now What’s your favourite airport to fly past to describe its qualities. conditions before though, and what we enjoy playing a more pivotal role from and why? If you could choose, what continue to see is that those who have in the long-term development of Venice. It connects me with our would you be doing 10 years disposable income or are travelling on business Follador internationally. partners and when I return home from now? What achievement in your career it reminds me of everything I love Follador has been making great still have the ability and desire to spend. are you proudest of? about this region. wine since 1769 and it is our “They might not purchase certain expensive My proudest achievement is helping What are some of the key challenges responsibility to continue that items, but luxury spirits are an affordable Follador develop from a recognised facing the travel retail business? tradition. I look forward to continuing luxury that people are usually unwilling domestic premium producer Travel retail was initially developed to develop the finest Prosecco. to forgo.”

8 Drinks International DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE In Brief A month in travel retail The Edrington Group ✈has revealed that it wishes to introduce a new streamlined deluxe With Drinks Cutty Sark range for Asian Almost a decade ago I was invited to take a day trip to International’s specialist duty free at the TFWA  correspondent, Calais on SeaFrance’s new Rodin super-ferry to inspect Asia Pacific exhibition Joe Bates the onboard shops. The introduction of what was then the in Singapore in May. The largest and fastest ship to sail on the busy Dover-Calais crossing range is likely to comprise a 12 Year Old, an 18 Year was meant to mark the start of a bold fight-back by a ferry firm Old and Cutty Storm, a battered and bruised by price-cutting rivals Eurotunnel and P&O blended malt. Ferries, as well as strike action from its own employees. Despite the introduction of a sister vessel, the Berlioz, two years Malaysia Airlines has later in 2005, SeaFrance’s bright new future never materialised. ✈appointed Dr Ron Georgiou as its exclusive Last month, a French court supplied the coup de grâce, liquidating wine consultant. Australian- the struggling company after various rescue packages by employees are all about in-store theatre and the halo effect on sales born Georgiou, who is also and even rival operators had been rejected. lower down the price ladder. However, on another level, they a dentist by profession, is It’s a sad end for SeaFrance and a clear indication of how provide ample proof that, while Europe continues to struggle one of only 299 Masters of Wine worldwide. competitive the cross-Channel ferry market has been since the economically, the European travel retail liquor business Eurotunnel opened in 1994 and intra-EU duty free was axed five believes it will continue to benefit from a set of super-wealthy, Swiss travel retailer years later. More recently, the decline in sterling and duty hikes in recession-proof travellers, many from emerging markets, who ✈Dufry has purchased France have sucked volumes from the once buoyant “booze cruise” have huge amounts of discretionary income. a controlling 51% stake trade. Wine, beer and spirit As the trading year gets in Regstaer Group, which operates stores at suppliers now have to fight tooth underway in earnest, industry Moscow’s Sheremetyevo and nail for onboard space. attention is firmly focused on and Vnukovo airports. From an ailing French firm Hong Kong international airport Dufry already has a strong to one doing rather well in the (HKIA), where the winner of retail presence at both shape of Aelia, whose joint the hotly contested duty free Moscow Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports. venture shops at Paris Charles liquor and tobacco concession de Gaulle airport closed 2011 is expected to be announced LS Travel Retail has with spirit and wine sales shortly. With its dream mix ✈opened a new tax- and up a healthy 14% and 18% of sophisticated Hong Kong duty-free store at London respectively. It is Russian and residents, mainland Chinese City airport, which targets its business passenger base. Chinese passengers who have travellers and wealthy ex-pats, The beefed-up liquor offer been helping the sales chart the airport is one of the most comprises more premium move in the right direction and Aelia plans to keep them happy in important duty free liquor businesses in Asia. In 2010, whiskies, champagnes and 2012 with a string of exclusive promotions and launches from the liquor and tobacco sales there topped $200m (£128.47m). fine wines. likes of Moët Hennessy, Pernod Ricard and Diageo. Unsurprisingly, the existing concessionaire, Sky Brown-Forman has One of the first exclusives to hit the shelves at Paris CDG, Orly Connection, which has operated at the airport since ✈strengthened its and Nice airports last month was a limited-edition Campari bottle it opened in 1998, has a fight on its hands to retain travel retail team, creating designed by colourful Brazilian pop artist Romero Britto, which is its contract. The line-up of bidders is rumoured to three new sales roles being supported by shop window displays. The heart-dominated include operators from China in the shape of Sunrise and promoting industry veteran Monte Wilson. Nick design is likely to prove a strong gift buy during the run-up to Duty Free and China Duty Free Group looking to Mogford becomes travel Valentine’s Day. expand outside the Chinese mainland, as well as retail director for Europe, Meanwhile, over in Holland at Amsterdam Schiphol, the term international retailers such as DFS Group and South the Middle East and Africa, “bling” fails to do justice to the one-off bottle of The Dalmore, Korea’s Lotte Duty Free. while Barbara Burdina which has gone on sale at Schiphol Airport’s Retail Fine Spirits & The key concern for the ultimate winner will has been appointed area manager for central and Cigars store at a jaw-dropping €250,000 (£208,850). The stopper be to try to actually make some money. Airport eastern Europe. Michael of The Dalmore Brilliance Vintage 1926 incorporates a 1.83-carat retail contracts invariably go to those retailers that Goh has been named as diamond from the renowned Dutch jeweller Gassan Diamonds. have bid the highest minimum annual guarantee, travel retail manager for The whisky inside the exquisitely made crystal decanter is which is fine if passenger numbers keep moving north Asia. Lastly, Brown- Forman has expanded unbelievably rare, containing single malts from 1868, 1926 and in the right direction, but potentially disastrous if Monte Wilson’s role. The 1978. Anyone with pockets deep enough to actually buy The there is another SARS outbreak or a long-dormant director of travel retail Dalmore Brilliance Vintage 1926 can have the €40,000 (£33,415) volcano decides it is time to spring to life. in the Americas’ new diamond removed from the stopper free of charge by Gassan and Risky stuff, but as that old cliché goes “he who responsibilities will now made into a piece of jewellery. dares wins” – playing it safe won’t get you very include key travel retail accounts worldwide. On one level, exclusive launches such as The Dalmore Brilliance far in the travel retail game.

february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 9 Glenmorangie Chase & Rhubarb Liqueur Artein Brand owner Chase Distillery Price £20 The pink drink, which has been Brand Owner The Glenmorangie Company Markets UK exclusively launched to the UK market it time for Valentine’s day, has an abv RPP £69.99 Contact George Shropshire of 20%, comes in 50cl bottles and is Markets Worldwide [email protected] priced at £20. The vodka and gin producer has Contact Sian Deegan, Moët Produced at William Chase’s described the taste profile as “crisp, Hennessy UK Herefordshire distillery, the brand’s light and refreshing” and suggests latest liqueur is made from potato the liqueur to be drunk as part of a Artein is the third release of the vodka and rhubarb. champagne cocktail. Glenmorangie Private Edition range. Translated as ‘stone’ in Scottish Gaelic, Artein is a blend of two-thirds 15-year-old and one-third 21-year- collaboration old ex-bourbon matured single malt whisky. The blend has also been The Glenrothes Editors’ Casks 3828 finished in Super Tuscan wine casks and bottled at 46% abv. (1979) and 9973 (1996) Priced at £69.99, Glenmorangie Artein joins Finealta and Sonnalta in Brand owner Berry Bros & Rudd Spirits the Private Edition range. According RPP Cask 3828: £600, €700, Cask 9973: $375, NT$7,000 to the Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton- Markets Cask 3828: Europe Cask 9973: US and Taiwan owned distilling company, stone Contact Cask 3828 [email protected]/Cask 9973 (US) Nathalie. is “at the heart of the making of Glenmorangie” as the water used [email protected] in distillation “slowly filters through Berry Bros & Rudd Spirits has teamed up layers of limestone, adding rich with a group of journalists to launch these minerals that contribute to the two single casks of The Glenrothes whisky. whisky’s complex fruity aromas”. Editors’ Casks, distilled in 1979 and The distillery is also close to the 1996, were selected in a blind tasting by ancient Hilton of Cadboll Stone – the Plymouth gin the French author of Les Routes du Malt, inspiration behind the motif on the Martine Nouet; German drinks magazine whisky bottle. (relaunch) publisher Christian H Rosenberg; US- based Noah Rothbaum, who edits Brand Owner Chivas Brothers / Liquor.com; and the Taiwanese Ho- Pernod Ricard cheng Yao (aka Kingfisher), one of Markets Spain, Australia. This year: the Malt Maniacs. US, Austria, Denmark, Norway, Greece Editors’ Cask #3828 (1979) has an abv of 52.1%, while Cask 9973 (1996) and Japan. 2013: UK has been bottled at 57% abv. Ronnie RRP €30, AUS$45.99 Cox, brands heritage director, said: Contact chivas.com “The assiduous quartet was far from concise in its debating. The experts Chivas Brothers is introducing a split into two camps and agreed to new look for its Plymouth gin brand, disagree – a reflection of personal repositioning it above Beefeater 24 tastes and preferences but two as a “super-premium-plus”. With outstanding casks nevertheless.” Beefeater 24 priced at around €24, the 41.2% abv Plymouth is being positioned at €30. Plymouth Navy Strength (57%) and Casa Dragones in the UK. According to Vanquish, Plymouth Sloe gin (26%) will have which has a private sales and on- new packaging as well. Plymouth Tequila trade focus, the Mexican spirit is a gin falls under a European Union “handcrafted sipping tequila” which balances “platinum tequila with a hint protected geographical indication so Brand Owner Playa Holding of extra añejo”. can only be made in the Devon town Corporation in south west England. RRP £165 It is made in small batches using an old Victorian still. The gin uses seven Markets UK, already available in botanticals with the main ingredient, US and Mexico after juniper, being sweet orange Contacts Sandra Chollet, peel. Beefeater uses bitter orange [email protected] peel. Chivas said: “The new rounded UK drinks specialist Vanquish Wine is bottle shape and antique style pay to distribute Casa Dragones tequila in tribute to the unique heritage of the UK following the brand’s debuts Plymouth Gin, while the oval label in the US and Mexico. sees a return to an earlier example of The distribution partnership sees the packaging, enriched with copper Vanquish hold exclusive rights to to reflect Plymouth’s artisanal the 100% blue agave joven tequila credentials.” stone

10 Drinks International What’s New seeking closure Leeuwin Estate 2009 Prelude Nomacorc Select 100 Vineyards Brand owner Nomacorc Chardonnay RRP €100/$132/£84 – €150/$197/£126 per 1,000 closures (dependent on quantities, market, and terms) Markets Global Brand owner Leeuwin Estate € Contact Jay Cummins, vice president of global sales [email protected] RRP 27-32, £22.50-£27, US$36 Markets Global Normacorc’s Select 100 has been developed for fragile Contact Simone Furlong, wines and those requiring extended ageing – including [email protected] full-bodied reds. The US-based synthetic cork producer claims the technology also prevents the process of reduction The latest release from Margaret – the occurrence of sulphur compounds due to a River winery Leeuwin Estate is paucity of oxygen ingress post-bottling, a fault widely said to be directed at fine wine associated with screwcap closures. enthusiasts worldwide. Stéphane Vidal, Nomacorc’s global director of The winemaker’s tasting notes oenology, said: “Select 100 provides oxygen ingress say: “The bouquet is vibrant and levels close to zero during the initial stages of wine concentrated with pear, peach and development, then introduces a low and consistent level of lime. Beneath, layers of lemon curd oxygen during later stages of maturation, when wines are most and fig. Lifted frangipani, subtle susceptible to reduction. Through this breakthrough process, which manages cinnamon and peanut brittle provide oxygen in two discrete phases, Select 100 maximises aroma preservation and further complexity. The palate is freshness while preventing the formation of undesirable sulphur off-notes.” delicately textured with pear, ruby grapefruit and white peach. Hints of wild honey and cashew add complexity to a palate that exudes balanced weight and persistent private Hermitage Wood Finish length.”

Brand owner Gordon & MacPhail RRP £45, €54, US$70 Markets Worldwide Contact [email protected]

Two rare single malt whiskies are being added to Gordon & MacPhail’s portfolio of more than 300 whiskies under the firm’s Private Collection label. With redesigned packaging, the two malts c oo l ustome r have been selected by the Urquhart family, directors of the firm. Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Hermitage Wood Finish 1997 (45%) comes from Neige apple Diageo’s Caol Ila distillery on Islay. ice wine Gordon & MacPhail Brand owner La Face Cachée Private Collection Côte de la Pomme Rôtie Wood Finish 1991 RRP £25 (37.5cl in a gift carton) (45%) from Linkwood Markets Worldwide distillery near Elgin has been finished in Côte Rôtie Contact lafacecachee.com casks for 30 months and is said to have developed Neige apple ice wine from Montreal, rich, summer fruit aromas so fine Canada has been compared to with vanilla and roasted quality Sauternes, according to malt notes. 1,900 bottles Information the company. There are two styles: have been released for Products launched within the last two Neige Premiere (11%) and Neige sale. Winter Harvest (9%). months are eligible for inclusion within this section. Please submit your products It is said to be a perfect match for for consideration to: desserts and cheese. [email protected] february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 11 Pisco

The South American spirit may have failed to make much international impact in its 450-year history, but a new generation of producers are determined to change all that, findsHamish Smith The pisco

Pisco grapes ripening in Peru

xplained simply, pisco is a grape spirit Chile and export strategies are now commonplace. culture that’s pulling us. And to make the best respective spirits – rum and cachaça – round the made in Peru and Chile. But then, In the bars of cities that embrace cocktail culture, cocktail you need the best spirit. We are interested in globe, the Sour isn’t universally accepted as the right things are rarely simple. The narrative pisco has started to gain some traction. London, Barcelona, Madrid –­ hip cities that have a ride for pisco.” of pisco can be as complex or as huge and beautiful cocktail culture. Of course, grape “The Pisco Sour is another part of the problem,” concise as the storyteller chooses, or the Peruvian pisco Pisco Portòn’s Destileria La Calavedo makes a wonderful spirit for a cocktail. We’re not says The Pisco Book’s Dicum. “As the quality of Ereader requires. That in mind, refer – or don’t – to Peru’s production, which varies from the crude – a wine press dating from 1684 a vegetable, we’re not a cactus, we’re not a grain, pisco plummeted [in the 20th century] it was the the potted history of pisco on the final page of this to the high-tech ends of artisanal production, we’re a fruit. Mixologists are having a wonderful perfect drink for masking poor quality pisco. You feature. is outnumbered in volume terms 7:1 by Chile. The main destination of exports was the US of Peruvian master distiller and pisco bon vivant time with pisco.” can pack in sugar, lime and egg then it doesn’t matter Certainly, there is an empty seat at the table of Regulations are tighter here than across the border (59%), followed by Chile, Spain, Colombia, Japan Johnny Schuler, the brand has grown rapidly. Steve Raye, managing partner at the US-based, what pisco you use.” Added to this is the cocktail’s global spirits categories which pisco might have and, as such, producers are required to use only eight and Germany. Schuler says the brand, classified as an anchelado self-explanatorily-named agency, Brand Action inaccessibility to mainstream bars or armatures (??). occupied were it not for the historical, cultural and varieties of grape, distillation must be to proof – so Dicum continues: “In the past 10 years pisco – a blend of grapes – will achieve 100,000 cases in Team, has his own advice for pisco producers: “Our “Most peoples’ experience of pisco is through geographical pressures that have divided it to its no water is added – and the spirit cannot be aged. has transformed in Peru and it’s just starting to be 2012. And the long-term target? “Our ambition is recommendation is that pisco focuses on competing these cocktails that are quite difficult to make at core. Author of The Pisco Book Gregory Dicum has exported outside of the country. It’s a challenge for to produce 10 million litres,” says Schuler, who also in the ‘white mixable spirit’ category that transcends home,” says Dicum. “You have to add egg whites Right now, the pisco category produces about chronicled the rise of Peruvian pisco. “Since the 90s exporters as they’re coming into markets where hosts a primetime pisco-themed TV show in Peru. vodka, tequila and rum. Ultimately its emergence and people are afraid of that.” five million nine-litre cases (collective industry the economy has been on track, there’s been peace Peruvian pisco isn’t known and they’re having to The brand is currently in high-end restaurants and has to be driven by consumer interest. In order to get BarSol is Peru’s second biggest export brand and estimates). In the context of its Latin American and a growing middle class and the creation of an say: “It has an incredible history – it’s actually 400 bars in Peru, 28 states in the US and will export there, however, suppliers have to build awareness of one of the first of the modern era to look beyond friends, rum, tequila and cachaça, pisco is incredible food scene in Lima. These conditions have years old.” The export piscos are only a tiny sliver of to Chile, Argentina, Venezuela, Brazil, the UK and the category and generate the interest and advocacy home borders since forming in 2001. The brand, smaller than minuscule. And because its sales are combined to revive pisco.” the variety of piscos produced in Peru, but the good Spain this year. of mixologists, bartenders and food and beverage which claims to sell around 10,000 cases and expects domestically-dominated – exports are the preserve This renaissance has seen the birth of a number news is that it tends to some of the best ones.” “The category doesn’t exist yet [in export markets] directors, retailers and distributors.” to double volume within three years, currently of the few, not the many – little notice is taken when of outwardly focused brands looking to quality, One such brand is Pisco Portón which, in its three – we will be creating the category. We will be pulling exports to 18 European countries, the US, South East small gains are made or positive trends occur. But not quantity. According to Andina – a promotional short years, has become a front runner in the super- a train-load of brands that will hitch on to us. It Cocktail hour Asia, Chile, Ecuador and Mexico. speak to the people of pisco and they will attest to agency in Peru – the Peruvian Exporters’ Association premium, export-focused camp. The brand has been cannot be a one-brand category – in the US there are The Pisco Sour remains the most common vehicle For Diego Loret de Mola, the brand’s founder, the a quiet revolution. In the past decade the seeds of (ADEX) reported a 35% increase in sales value in financed to the tune of $35m by American William already 18-20 piscos – but we will be the leaders.” for pisco – both in Chile and Peru and abroad. But, on-trade and restaurants, in particular, represent an premiumisation have been sewn in both Peru and the year ending October 2011. Kallop and his son Brent and, under the stewardship Schuler sees cocktails as key. “It’s the cocktail just as the Mojito and the Caipirinha carry their opportunity. “The recognition of Peru as  p18

16 Drinks International february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 17 Pisco

a culinary centre of South America has helped,” he says. “Yet there is a long journey ahead. At the moment the missing link for pisco to become a mainstream spirit is to be able to have a natural connection between director Javier Marcos, the domestic market is first chances for all Chilean pisco producers to work the consumer, the cocktail/spirit and the showing growth, along with the US and Brazil. together to start shaping the sector. From here, there experience. “There is a large market for mass products, will hopefully be new markets to explore. Pisco has “With tequila, [the US] consumer however in exports, the premium products market history. It has been developed by generations of has access to Mexican food, Mexican is growing strongly for Capel,” he says. In response families in northern Chile. It is part of the culture, beaches, Mexican culture and can to this trend a band of small-scale producers have and identity of Chileans, and is therefore a very connect to a Mexican theme in one arrived on the scene. exportable product.” way or another. At the moment pisco “The market now shows a clear trend moving from has achieved recognition as something basic pisco to premium,” says Alejandro Aguirre, Generic body special, hard to get, and connects with owner of Pisco Aba – a brand which claims to have Peru lacks the galvanizing effect of a single-purpose people that have had some sort of seen sales grow by 15% in the past year. “Ten years international body. Currently it relies on government Peruvian experience.” ago Aba was the first premium pisco launched in Chile. organisations which promote Peru’s collective It’s made from the best selection of Muscat grapes from cultural attractions. Perhaps a trans-nation generic Chilean pisco The Elqui Valley, meaning it’s rich in terroir.” body for pisco is the answer. Head out of Peru’s southern In Chile, Piscolas (pisco and cola) are a popular Lapostolle of Chile’s Kappa certainly agrees – to border and the pisco might serve for its national spirit, especially at barbeques him pisco is no different from rum, which is also a assume a yellow tinge from and parties, according to Aguirre. But the undisputed product of more than one nation. “I think it is key barrel ageing and will have king, much like in Peru, is still the Pisco Sour. that Chileans and Peruvians work together to build certainly undergone at least two “Several years ago consumers did not pay much the category,” he says. distillations. The powerhouses attention to which pisco was used in a Pisco Sour. Brand Action Team’s Raye outlines the of CCU (Compañia Cervecerias Now some restaurants are starting to feature a international perception: “One of the big issues in Unidas) – a large brewery and selection of pisco styles on their menus with different the category is country of origin. Unfortunately that beverage company – and Capel prices,” says Aguirre. only serves to confuse consumers. While there are represent about 90% of the Another that sources grapes from the Elqui Valley some fundamental production differences, at the end production in Chile. is Kappa. The super-premium pisco is made from of the day, to consumers, pisco is pisco.” Capel claims to be the largest 100% Muscat grapes and even went to the lengths of If its history can be archived away and a pisco producer in the world and shipping an alembic still from Cognac. commonality between Peru and Chile agreed, Pisco through its brands – such as Alto According to the brand’s owner, Charles de would surely be bigger and better as the sum of its del Carmen, Capel, Cochiguaz Bournet Marnier Lapostolle, the premiumising trend parts. Interestingly, in the ancient Peruvian language Artisan, Monte Fraile and and newfound attention to exports has seen the of Quechua, pisco translates as ‘little bird’. Certainly, Limari – it offers a plethora creation of Pisco Spirits, an organisation which will up against the pantheon of global spirits categories, of styles and RTD products. promote Chilean pisco in the US. the little bird of pisco will need both of its wings if it According to Capel’s export Aba’s Aguirre explains: “This will be one of the is to ever really take flight. DI

Getting under the skin of the grape spirit

Pisco came about because of colonialism. Grapes destructive period. A lost war to Chile (Pacific War are not native to South America – they arrived with 1879-1883) saw land taken and its capital sacked. the Spanish more than 500 years ago. There were earthquakes, an endless succession of For priests spreading Christianity, no wine meant dictators, the US’s Prohibition – just when the Pisco no mass. Something had to be done and vineyards Punch was gaining popularity – and an ill-conceived were planted wherever cities were built. For Peru, land reform programme. it was the evolution from winemaking into distilling The Pisco Book’s Dicum says: “Quality had when they came into their own. In fact, the spirit plummeted and in the mind of Peruvians, pisco had was so named because of the port it was shipped become associated with gut-rot that desperate old from – the little-known town of Pisco. men would drink. There’s a whole generation of people ­ But for all the country’s 450-year association with who are now in their 50s and basically in charge of the pisco, Peru missed a trick, and a rather large one at that. country who grew up turning their backs on pisco.” Chile, having made wine and wine distillate Crucially and somewhat neglectfully, the country for hundreds of years, gained the protected failed to gain its own DOC for pisco until 1991. denomination (DOC) for its own version of pisco Johnny Schuler, master distiller of Peru’s Pisco in the 1930s. Around the same time, mysteriously, Portòn, sums up the feeling in Peru. “The Chileans the Chilean town of La Unión changed its name to took the name, but they didn’t take the recipe.” Pisco Elqui for so called “strategic reasons”. Pisco And, snipe aside, Schuler’s right – the two spirits became officially Chilean. evolved in isolation so production styles and Pisco Aba’s Muscat vineyard in Chile’s Elqui Valley Peru, meanwhile, was in the midst of a deeply techniques vary considerably.

18 Drinks International drinksint.com february 2012 Design & Packaging

Luxury drinks brands are managing to make the recession work for them, top global designers tell Lucy Britner Driving

Design Bridge’s three Mahiki creative director Graham Shearsby says bottles that in difficult times, brands should “actively encourage a culture of risk to keep pace with developments in emerging markets”. Shearsby talks about a Diageo project the company worked on – Mahiki he Rolls Royce. It’s a design gift says something about the drinker. The Rolls Royce is the gold Brands want to feel consistent and authentic values, while being relevant to for the surge in interest in Irish whiskey Coconut, a liqueur which is the brainchild icon and a euphemism for So luxury isn’t just driving sales for standard for luxury in every dependable.” today’s lifestyle.” brand Jameson. In fact, according to of its namesake bar in London. He says field luxury quality – “It’s the Rolls Royce. If you flick back to page Claessens International creative director “During a recession, quality remains Impact Databank’s latest figures, sales the project “re-drew the boundaries in Rolls Royce of (insert just seven of this magazine, you’ll see that James Boulton takes this idea a step key in terms of the product itself and the of the Irish whiskey in the US grew 29% its approach and speed, breaking all about any word here).” Diageo is investing in a luxury bottling further and suggests the recession has perception of the brand.” during the first half of 2011. Cook says: of Diageo’s launch protocols”. When ManyT believe it’s more than just a car, line. actually been good for some. “The recession has caused consumers to I ask how so, Shearsby says: “It was although when you look at it, with its David Rogers, owner and creative He says: “The global downturn was False economy gravitate towards brands with a slightly groundbreaking for a brand to use three four wheels, steering wheel, engine, partner of UK-based brand and quite a good time for established brands. So what does that all mean when you get more down-to-earth feel and a genuine different designs for one liquid. When we seats… it appears it is, well, a car. The packaging design consultancy We Are People turned to them because they to the drawing board? reason to believe. One example of this presented to the founders of Mahiki, we BMW-owned Rolls Royce company says Pure, says: “Even through the recession, wanted to buy the best quality products Packaging design agency Stranger & trend is the success of Irish whiskey saw their faces light up and we knew we it sold 3,538 cars last year, 31% up on people have still invested in the odd Design Bridge’s Asa Cook and make the most of their limited Stranger’s founder and creative director, brands such as Jameson. Irish whiskey had hit the nail on the head. It was right 2010 and a new annual sales record for bit of luxury as a treat and, with home thinks the recession has resources. They found the familiarity of Kevin Shaw, says producers should avoid is typically more down to earth and first time, the concept was right and the helped consumers take Graham Shearsby at Design the 107-year-old brand. entertaining taking priority over nights a more ‘down-to-earth’ established brands reassuring, equating making cuts when consumers rein in relatable than scotch whisky, which can Bridge finds ‘opportunity in big idea was right.” And you thought there was a recession? out, there’s still been a constant need for approach to brands them with reliability, value and quality.” their spending. “When consumers started be perceived as elitist. risk’ for brands He adds: “Brands need to recognise Granted there are some markets that luxury spirits. Do any of those words really sound spending less, some producers reacted “Brand owners are certainly investing opportunity in risk and to deliver bold, aren’t in recession and the company goes “Obviously there are cheaper too promising in innovation terms? by demanding cheaper packaging, for in design as the most effective return on forward-thinking, category-leading on to say that sales in the Asia Pacific alternatives, but the luxury brands have “Reassuring, reliability, value…” example, two-colour labels. This is a false investment, but they need strong thinking results.” region were crucial to its success – rising never let their appearance drop for the But Boulton goes on to say that brand economy. At a time when it is harder than so their products really make sense to by 47% on the year before. A familiar sake of saving a few pence on packaging innovation is still important. “You cannot ever to get yourself noticed on the shelf, their consumers. People know when they Green flag tale. Let’s face it, a Roller isn’t just for and labelling. Packaging plays an simply recreate old bottle and label cheap-looking packaging isn’t a winning are having the wool pulled over their eyes Many new words and phrases have popping to the shops in – it sends a important part in the status of a product, designs, as it’s vital for brands to be seen formula. Thankfully, the good ones know and I can’t see that changing in the near crept into our vocabulary over the message to observers about the driver, in and no brand will want to look like it to be moving forward and reflecting the that.” future.” past few years. Had you heard of a much the same way that a luxury bottle has become a victim of the recession by times. The difficulty degree is in allowing Design Bridge design director Asa Cook But it doesn’t pay to play it safe all the carbon footprint in 2005? What about of spirits on a table in a club or given as a changing its packaging dramatically. the consumer to understand the roots of suggests the recession could be one reason time. Cook’s colleague, Design Bridge lightweight glass? And wine  p23

20 Drinks International february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 21 Design & Packaging in Tetra Pak? Are green issues still an Levelling the playing field in this way issue or have we got bigger, financial fish makes it more likely that this strategy will to fry? be adopted across the board. However, To use the car analogy again, even there is a technical issue here, too. high-flying BMW has sat up and taken Champagne is bottled under immense notice of the green curve. The company pressure, so you need glass that can announced in January that, as the official withstand this pressure when the bottle automotive partner of the London 2012 is being stored in a riddling rack, where Cartil’s has produced a about this. Should the Scotch Whisky Olympics, it would roll out low-emission it hangs upside down and is turned reworking of the design for Association be called upon to reduce Snow Queen vodka petrol-electric hybrids or electric vehicles. regularly. Lightweight glass could present secondary packaging and cut carbon According to the BBC, some 4,000 BMW breakage problems.” emissions? cars, motorcycles and bicycles are to be Design Bridge’s Shearsby says his Huynen from Cartils sums it up nicely. on the streets of London this summer. company has been working for the past He says: “Boxes and cartons are still Christiaan Huynen, group director 10 years to embed sustainability into the important to the whisky industry as of business development & marketing design process. His colleague Cook adds: they influence the perceived value (an at international branding and design “Sustainability is more of a given these days indicator of premiumness) of a product consultant Cartils says: “Sustainability is rather than a specific starting point for a – a factor which is of importance in a a trend that has gained more ground over brief. This is because, whether we like it consumer’s buying criteria (shelf impact). the past couple of years and we expect or not, consumers don’t buy brands based Design & packaging Therefore banning boxes and cartons will to continue to see such growth over the solely on their environmental credentials.” trade show calendar have many negative consequences on the coming years. Key examples in the drinks But Stranger & Stranger’s Shaw thinks industry as a whole.” industry have been the introduction of the responsibility also lies at the retail Luxe Pack Shanghai plant-based PET as end of the market. March 28-29, 2012 Shanghai The gift that keeps on giving well as lightweight When I ask him if he International Convention He goes on to say that customers looking glass. However, thinks sustainability Center for gifts may shift to other spirits the trend is of less and lightweighting are categories that offer more luxurious influence in the super- considerations, he says: Luxe Pack New York packaging. “If it were only the Scotch premium and luxury “No and they should May 16-17, 2012 Whisky Association that was to ban category.” be. The supermarkets New York them, then we can safely say all scotch Claessens’ have the power to push whiskies would lose out to foreign Boulton says all this a lot more.” Pack & Gift 2012 competition which would continue to manufacturers are Shall the twain June 13-14 2012 use them, or to other spirits, for instance under pressure to show ever meet? Can Paris Porte de Versailles bourbon, rum, cognac, vodka, gin, their sustainability luxury packaging and champagne...” credentials and, while sustainability ever be Luxe Pack Monaco Design Bridge’s Cook says secondary he believes lightweight comfortable bedfellows? October 24 thru 26 2012 packaging is important to the gifting glass is a plus for the Or, more importantly, Monaco Grimaldi Forum sector. He adds: “As a gifting sector for environment and for should they be? If www.luxepack.com duty free and premium outlets the box the pocket, in terms there’s one area where and outer packaging provide an essential of shipping costs packaging takes up story to drive purchasing. It would be there are still some as much of the press risky for an individual whisky distiller snags when it comes to release as the liquid, it’s Left and below: Revamped not to offer them. That said, if all cartons perceived value. He uses champagne to at the luxury end of scotch whisky. vodka bottles from Claessens were banned, consumers would not buy make the point. One typical example from DI news one brand over another for its gift- stories is from a Glenmorangie launch: ability.” No room to devalue “The package is a collaboration between Claessens’ Boulton suggests a more “The problem for many brands – and French designer Laurence Brabant, who practical reason for secondary packaging this is particularly true with champagne designed the barrique-style Baccarat – avoiding damage. He says: “There is a – is much of the value for drinks brands crystal decanter, and Dutch furniture need in certain areas of whisk(e)y sales, comes from their bottling, so there is designer Wouter Scheublin, who designed due to the prices being paid and the rarity still a competitive advantage to be had the box.” of the product, to ensure packaging is from not moving to lightweight glass,” But family-owned company Glenfarclas carefully designed to prevent damage he says. “The last thing any brand wants made headlines in 2010 for the opposite while enhancing value through reflecting to be seen to be doing is devaluing its reason when it launched its 40 year old the high-quality image of the brand. product and, certainly from a consumer whisky, which it says was deliberately not For this reason, consumers, whether perspective, moving to lightweight glass overpackaged to keep the price down. sympathetic to green issues or not, will can have this affect. At the time of the launch, Glenfarclas always expect whisky to be packaged in “What’s interesting about the director of sales George Grant was a way that reflects its price, quality and champagne market is the commitment quoted as saying: “Compared to other rarity.” of the [champagne co-ordinating body] whiskies of a similar age, this has been I wonder what kind of box a Rolls CIVC to work towards reducing the priced to open and enjoy.” Royce comes in? Maybe I’ll buy one and weight of bottles across the industry. So I ask design experts what they think put it on expenses. DI february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 23 Liqueurs

Liqueurs coolfind their Photo: Shutterstock/Monika Olszewska The category is densely populated and very competitive in the mainstream, but there are rich pickings to be had as liqueurs gain a new status. Patience Gould reports

ou could be forgiven for liqueurs in value terms increased by and the company has every intention of thinking that the term 10% in the 12 months ending September maintaining the momentum. “The focus ‘liqueurs’ is a catch-all for (WSET). Japan and the former eastern for Midori is to show versatility through any alcoholic drink that is bloc countries, where the cocktail culture its use in cocktails and to educate and sweet and on the sticky side, is coming to the fore, are also buoyant entice bartenders to mix original drinks,” Yrelatively low in alcohol and as such not a stamping grounds, which is all good says Terron. “We also want to promote serious alcoholic beverage. But the reality news for the likes of the high-class French simple mixes that can be easily recreated could not be more different. Globally the producer Gabriel Boudier and Suntory’s at home by the average consumer.” liqueurs category amounts to more than melon contender Midori. This year, Midori will have an up- 85 million nine-litre cases a year and, “2012 will be the year of the liqueur, scale presence at the key industry events although growth is not explosive, it is with the importance of crafted products around the world including the Moscow ticking over very nicely. with a strong background in the cocktail Bar Show, Manhattan Cocktail Classic, International growth for this year is industry taking priority in most bars where and Tales of the Cocktail. “We are trying expected to be about 5%, and that’s well cocktails can be found,” says Manuel to become top-of-mind for bartenders up on the 1%-plus over the past four Terron, Midori’s global brand ambassador everywhere by exposing Midori’s fresh years. Within the category, fruit liqueurs and mixologist. “Just as with flavoured fruit ingredients and demonstrating the have been performing well over the past vodkas, bitters and now spiced rums have virtues of mixing cocktails with fresh few years, turning in annual growth of caught the attention of bartenders and ingredients,” says Terron. 3% (IWSR), and coffee liqueurs are also customers. The time for liqueurs’ cool Bartenders generally are the prime focus proving to be something of a hot spot. status is just around the corner.” for liqueur producers, but as the cocktail Growth is higher in certain key Thanks to consistent investment and culture takes hold and consumers are more Midori’s mixologist Manuel and developing markets, and this is ongoing activities behind the Midori Terron is tipping 2012 as ‘the prepared to make their own drinks at particularly true of the UK, where fruit brand, global sales are ahead by 6% year of the liqueur’ home, retailers are beginning  p26 february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 25 Liqueurs to sit up and take notice. This is certainly our brand,” says van Doorne. “It adds a the case with Gabriel Boudier, who in the whole new dimension to the cocktail and UK in conjunction with the number one drink experience.” multiple Tesco, has developed a six-strong Bols further reinforces its ties with range – Creme de Cassis, Curaçao Triple the international mixologist fraternity Sec, Apricot Brandy, Blue Curaçao, Crème via its Bartending Academy. Based in de Menthe and Cherry Brandy. Amsterdam, this now boasts three full- Retailing in 50cl bottles from £9 to time trainers and has recently taken a £12, each liqueur comes with a simple- reservation for eight bartenders from serve cocktail suggestion, which will the US, which underlines the growing change every six months – so clearly the reputation of the event. retailer has confidence in this initiative. Tesco’s Finest range of liqueurs went on Cocktail extravaganza the shelves pre-Christmas and the early On a different tack, but with the same signs are very promising. goal to reinforce its position with “When it comes to liqueurs, retailers bartenders, Marie Brizard hosts an annual have not seen the potential – but there is cocktail competition and extravaganza. a real opportunity out there,” says James This year will be the 28th International Rackham from Emporia, the UK importer Bartending Seminar, and it “provides a that supplies the Gabriel Boudier range. great opportunity” for the company to “This is clearly a development that has keep abreast of current and future trends. huge potential, as consumers are more “It has always been a key moment for prepared to make cocktails at home.” the brand as more than 100 bartenders This latest move marks an interesting join us in Bordeaux to compete but also shift in the liqueurs firmament where on to understand Marie Brizard liqueurs, see the whole the bartender and mixologists our production facility and work with Bols has targeted the on-trade Wenneker boasts a 41-strong liqueur flavour front, “from partners around under its Galliano label with its recent Marie Brizard (above), as mixologists across the globe are have traditionally been the key target our product,” says Marie Brizard’s group with variety (above), while range and is now available in around the world”. line extension Ristretto – a coffee espresso Galliano and Gabriel Boudier/ increasingly discovering all they can create Patrón’s coffee liqueur XO Tesco (below) continue to audience. This will not change, but also marketing chief Aurélie Lory. Cafe (below) is a hit with both 50 markets, with the UK and Thailand Most recently it has joined forces with liqueur. Initially concentrating on its home use innovation to extend the with it.” targeting consumers opens up a potentially The company is currently celebrating bartenders and consumers topping its export league. “Considering Angostura bitters which will see the market Italy, the brand is already proving reach of their liqueurs Indeed, the coffee liqueur has been so massive new market for producers. the fact that Marie Brizard liqueurs were there are about 120 markets we should development of 20 cocktail recipes to be a success. successful that the company is already Of course, the big names in the liqueur used in four of the five winning cocktails be in – we have a long way still to go – made using both brands, among other However, in terms of development, planning a line extension – Patrón XO world are the two giant Dutch companies at last year’s IBA convention, which was it’s daunting but still a big opportunity,” ingredients, and these recipes will be the plaudits have to commend the Cafe Dark Cocoa, a chocolate liqueur, De Kuyper and Bols, the French force staged in Warsaw. Of particular pleasure says Ridley. published in Drinks International – American Tequila force, the Patrón which is also made with Patrón Silver Marie Brizard and the up-and-coming was the fact that its Essence liqueur range, which was the magazine selected as its Spirits Company, which is enjoying Tequila. This will be initially introduced Dutch producer Wenneker Distillers. which comprises cinnamon, spicy mix, tea, Emerging markets media partner last September. growing success with its XO Cafe, in the US, but the hope is to expand into These operations wield huge ranges of jasmine, rosemary and violet, took centre Key developing stamping grounds for “The aim of this project is to a Patrón Silver Tequila-based coffee international markets. liqueurs and in the main their target stage and not surprisingly this is where the cocktails include Kazakhstan, Belarus, develop a recipe collection that liqueur that is very more-ish and “Until then, we’re focused on building audience, by necessity, is still the on-trade focus will be for the coming year. Ukraine and Russia where, aided by good represents the latest trends in the (mercifully) not too sweet. distribution of the base Patrón XO Cafe rather than the consumer. “We are looking to concentrate on distributors and training programmes, world of mixology,” says Capuzzo. “Patrón XO Cafe performed brand into additional bars, restaurants, In this rather more mainstream world, our new Essence range which got a great Wenneker liqueurs are making good “One of the coolest aspects of the extremely well in 2011, with very hotels and high-end retail establishments,” competition is fierce and the need to find welcome from bartenders,” says Lory. headway. “Kazakhstan is very new to project will be its interactivity as each substantial growth in markets outside says Cohen. “We’re also focused on new flavours to maintain the competitive “We got a silver medal at the IWSC 2011, the cocktail but indicators are good – recipe will be connected, via a QR the US,” says the company’s director growing our other liqueur brand, Patrón edge is a fundamental. Of late, Bols has and it clearly has great potential. We are consumers are wealthy enough to get [quick response] code, to a video of corporate communications Greg Citrónge, a high quality orange liqueur. demonstrated this effectively, with the also starting to appear on some cocktail involved – and bartenders, though relatively tutorial that shows its execution.” Cohen. “In total, the brand was up As margaritas gain in popularity across launches of Bols Foam, and Bols Natural menus in high-end bars.” inexperienced, are keen to learn,” says These videos are then posted 29% in 2011 against the previous the world, our message to trade and Yoghurt Liqueur. Other plans for the year include Ridley. “In a presentation we held last on Volare’s YouTube channel, year. And internationally, including consumers is to use an authentic Mexican “There are a tremendous amount of the launch of three more liqueurs, November, we had a 100% turnout.” Volare In The Mix, which made duty free, Patrón XO Cafe was up orange liqueur in their cocktail.” flavours being thrown at the market, but Litchi, Passion Fruit and Green Melon, Another company finding the going its debut last September and has more than 83%.” Liqueurs from Galliano and Patrón are you wonder how long they will last,” says underlining the importance of adding tough is the Italian producer Rossi received “great feedback” from Patrón XO Cafe’s best arguably easier to market due the simple Bols CEO Huub van Doorne. “We are new flavours. “It is key to our strategy as d’Asiago and its Volare range of liqueurs, around the world. In addition, an developing markets are, in fact that they have appeal both to the very active in terms of innovation, but we have to fit constantly with trends and which feature integral bottle pourers. “It online cocktail competition using addition to duty free, South on-trade as well as the consumer – in short the requirements for flavours differ from provide bartenders with liqueurs that will is very competitive because in recent years YouTube Volare and Angostura Africa, Australia, the UK, they have the best of both worlds. market to market.” allow them to express their creativity,” a lot of new producers have entered this will be launched this year. Canada, Malaysia, Bahamas, Indeed this was always the case with Available in six flavours, including Blue says Lory. market,” says Rossi d’Asiago’s marketing While overall it’s intensely the Philippines and Trinidad – brands such as the triple sec Cointreau, Curaçao and Amaretto, Bols Foam is a Dutch producer Wenneker is finding manager Anna Capuzzo. competitive on the liqueur front, and it is gaining the attention the cognac supremo Grand Marnier, the first for the category and at the largest pockets of growth as it expands into new But in something of a coup, the some pockets of the category are of bartenders. “Because of its Irish whiskey contender Irish Mist and the Dutch on-trade fair, the Horecava, the markets, but the going is none too easy. company recently secured a distribution storming ahead, especially coffee taste profile, the brand is quite scotch whisky-based liqueur Drambuie, company won the Innovation Award in “There are a limited number of premium contract with US importer Kobrand liqueurs. While this segment is versatile – it’s delicious on its which are deemed traditional liqueurs – the Food & Beverages category. “We ranges and therefore a limited number of and, not surprisingly, is now “investing dominated by the Pernod-owned own, over ice, or as a chilled largely because their alcohol strength is are very proud of this, because it is a distributors,” says the company’s export heavily in the US market”. Volare is Kahlua, two relative newcomers shot, or in any number of equivalent to a spirit (40%). reward for one of the most important director Richard Ridley. “As a result the also constantly on the look-out for are making headlines. Most cocktails,” says Cohen. “Use in These were the brands packaged in their innovations in the centuries-old history of going is quite competitive.” opportunities to meet demands on the recently Bols has entered the fray cocktails is definitely growing, decanter style bottles which  p28

26 Drinks International february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 27 Liqueurs reigned supreme on the after-drinks trolley. However, drinking habits have changed: Cocktail tougher drink-driving laws have made champions the after-meal drink slot less attractive, IBA’s top cocktails with Marie thus eroding the position of liqueurs in Brizard Essence liqueurs consumers’ drinking repertoire. But something had to happen to Flairtending Cocktail: gold medal improve prospects, and once again it Marek Posluszny, Poland was the cocktail which proved to be the Sweet Sixties catalyst for growth. But while Grand 3cl Bacardi Superior Marnier forged a bridge into the world 1.5cl Pagès Védrenne Crème de Cacao of cocktails and a place in the bartender’s 1cl Marie Brizard Rosemary mind without changing its presentation, 2cl Monin Fruit Smoothie Strawberry both Irish Mist and most notably 2cl Lime juice, fresh Drambuie have had dramatic about- Mixing technique: Shaker turns. Through new packaging, both now Glass: Durobor Norway straddle their respective spirits categories Garnish: orange peel, rosemary as well as their liqueur heritage. and bison grass

Trading places Long Drink: silver medal With its latest round of advertising, Cristina Jardim Pimenta, Portugal Drambuie has cemented its dramatic Atlantic Flower rebirth. “Over the past 15 months, it’s 2cl Bacardi Superior been a radical change, which has been 1.5cl Malibu very successful,” says Drambuie’s global 1cl Marie Brizard Vanille Madagascar marketing director Tim Dewey. “We 1.5cl Monin Strawberry needed to take the same radical step with 6cl Caraïbos Passion Fruit Nectar our communication. Previously it was not 6cl Caraïbos Pineapple Juice hard-wired enough.” Mixing technique: Shaker The new global ad campaign under the Glass: Durobor Brek banner “A Taste of the Extraordinary”, Garnish: cocktail cherry, cucumber, primed for 25 to 44-year-old professionals, pumpkin and mint will front a fully integrated marketing support package that will challenge The IBA (International Bartender consumers to re-evaluate the brand and Association) is a gathering of National change drinking habits. Unveiled pre- Bartenders Guilds from around the Christmas in the UK, Greece and Chile, using the brand – “these of course will be world. Founded in 1951, it has 56 the campaign will roll out nationally in the harder for consumers to make at home,” member countries. US this year. says Dewey. “In terms of drinking habits, the This significant Drambuie sea-change brand is in transition,” says Dewey. “But has to be managed without offending “a The Drambuie story underlines the research after a presence at key music host” of older and traditional Drambuie scope for liqueurs in today’s drinking festivals has shown that consumers are users. “All we’re saying is that it’s the world, as indeed does the success story getting the message and are going out to same Drambuie – and it doesn’t matter of Baileys, the all-pioneering Irish cream buy a bottle. It’s not a battle you win in how you drink it,” says Dewey. liqueur. But even this cream icon – which one day, but we are getting there.” Additionally, the company has fielded sells in excess of 7 million cases a year – The second raft of advertising will focus a serious line extension, Drambuie 15 has been forced to broaden its options, on ways to drink the liqueur. To this end Year Old – again emphasising its scotch and since 2008 has introduced Hint of the company has a three-tier strategy, whisky roots – while offering the more Mint Chocolate, Hint of Coffee, Hazelnut which kicks off with the simple/long serve traditional Drambuie user a step up the and most recently in the UK Biscotti such as Drambuie & Ginger or Coke, or quality ladder. The 15 Year Old joins the flavour. In the US, a pre-mix cocktail has in Latin America Drambuie Lime & Soda. The Royal Legacy of 1745 – a single malt made its debut, the Baileys Mudslide. In the US, the company is concentrating whisky version of Drambuie which was Without a doubt, the liqueurs category on a range of Rusty cocktails which offers launched in 2009 to mark the centenary of is hugely fragmented, more so than any a spin on traditional mixed drinks – ergo the first commercial bottling of the liqueur, other in the alcoholic beverage industry the Rusty Margarita. “This is a matter which took place in Edinburgh in 1909. – but that’s not a bad thing as there are of concentrating on traditional old-style So it’s all go in the Drambuie camp, opportunities around the world to be cocktails but with a new spin, and it gives and the priorities in terms of investment seized. It’s definitely not a category to us a way of getting involved,” says Dewey. for the coming year will be Chile and overlook, but as Bols’ CEO Huub van The third tier is primed for the high end Brazil; Chile because the liqueur sector is Doorne says: “It’s a very busy category – of the on-trade – where mixologists are “very open” and Brazil because it is “a and one that’s underestimated because it is encouraged to produce bespoke cocktails powerhouse for scotch”. so fragmented.” DI

28 Drinks International drinksint.com february 2012 German Wine

he ebullient head of the Vinexpo exhibition company Top positions for Pinot Noir was recently dismissive of white wines, saying that the German Pinot Noir took seven of the top 10 positions in a recent world and, more crucially, International Pinot Noir tasting. The blind tasting, which took place in theT huge emerging Chinese market, wants London, was organised by the German Wine Institute, chaired by Tim red wines. Atkin MW and judged by a world-class panel of wine experts. Robert Beynat was speaking at The top-placed German wine was the 2008 Winzerhof Thörle a briefing in London regarding the Spätburgunder Hölle from the Pfalz, which came in third position forthcoming Vinexpo Asia Pacific show in behind Oregon’s 2009 Anticaterra Pinot Noir and the Californian 2008 Hong Kong. To promote the importance Au Bon Climat Isabelle. and selling potential of the exhibition and The other top-placed German wines included the 2009 Rudolf to get editorial coverage he commissions Fürst Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder, 2007 Ziereisen Spätburgunder the IWSR (International Wine & Spirits Jaspis Alte Reben, 2008 Gutzler Westhofener Morstein Spätburgunder, Research) to research global markets for German wines are world class but 2008 Ziereisen Spätburgunder Schulen, 2009 Jean Stodden Alte wine and spirits. Reben Spätburgunder and 2009 Heitlinger GmbH Königsbecher In an off the-cuff-remark, Beynat says: they are predominately white and the Spätburgunder. “White wine is declining everywhere – The judges were: Tim Atkin MW, Hamish Anderson, Jancis Robinson not Burgundy though. People drink more world wants red. It is a niche player MW, Xavier Rousset MS, Christine Parkinson, Peter McCombie MW, wine with food. White wine is more an Anthony Rose, Gearoid Devaney MS, Ronan Sayburn, Stephen Brook, aperitif and people drink vodka instead.” in terms of volume, so how is it doing, Matthew Jukes and Stephan Reinhardt. Speaking specifically about China, he The institute says the event was the brainchild of Atkin and Hamish went on to smash the conception that asks Christian Davis Anderson, who visited Germany the year before last and were so white wine (and many would say German impressed by the quality of the Pinot Noirs they tasted that they white wine in particular) is perfectly challenged the German Wine Institute to hold a comparative tasting, suited to Asian food. He says: “Not true. pitting German Pinot Noir against some of the world’s most revered They prefer red. Château Lafite is red Pinot Noir producers from Burgundy, New Zealand and Oregon, among and that is the most well-known wine in others. China.” They returned to the Rheingau last September for a pre-tasting of Beynat says chefs in China had more than 300 German Pinot Noirs in order to select the top 20. The demonstrated that red wine perfectly Small is Pinot Noirs from non-German producers were also selected by Atkin, accompanies their cuisines. He also added following a visit to the International Pinot Noir Celebration in Oregon. that it is women in China who buy the wine. With this feature on German wine looming, Beynat’s remarks, albeit off the cuff, were ringing in my ears.

The position Where does that leave a predominately white wine producer such as Germany? Well, it seems to be in a good place. Although a long-established, world-class wine producer, it is small and of the less sexy Old World (Beynat dismissed the Old and New World descriptors, calling of the lost shelf space. We are steadily Small vineyards on steep hills students who are looking for something wine industry turning. The institute Rieslings, dry to off-dry with innovative for the wine world to be redefined with pulling out of lower price brackets. in picturesque landscapes – unchallenging, cheap and cheerful to rightly concentrates its efforts primarily packaging on the levels of New World niche China and India as the new New World “We are back on track in the US drink. on the country’s world-class Rieslings, a branding producers). But small can be beautiful, after the high price of the euro was a Dirk Gennrich, export director of variety lauded by such Masters of Wine l premium segment with high ‘pull’ from particularly in global wine. problem,” he adds. Mosel-based producer ZGM, summed it as Jancis Robinson, who regard it as the US and Asian markets (VDP wineries, A small harvest in 2010 (7.1 million Schindler touches on the sensitive up: “One of the main challenges we are noblest of white wine grape varieties, ultra-premium and noble late harvest). hectolitres, the lowest in 25 years) meant underbelly of German wine. While the facing in the UK market is the antiquated capable of long-term ageing. prices rose and German wines lost some institute and most of the major export image of German wine and the lack of Marian Kopp managing director Kopp used to head up Racke and recently shelf space in multiple retailers. Not players have been heavily promoting consumer interest in Pinot Noir, Pinot of the co-operative Niederkirchener returned from the US where he led a good, but hardly a disaster. Germany’s world-class Rieslings and Grigio and Rivaner from Germany. Weinmacher, which recently merged joint venture between Racke and South Steffen Schindler, marketing director, latterly Pinot Noirs (see panel), there are “The key to putting this right lies in the with another co-operative, Deutsches African producer KWV. He tells Drinks Deutsches Weininstitut (German Wine still a lot of down-market 1.5-litre flagons promotion of modern-style wines such as Weintor, to create a “new German wine International: “German wines are being Institute) says: “The 2011 vintage is of Liebraumilch and Hock in old markets our Rivaner/Pinot Grigio, as a opposed to powerhouse”, sees German wines falling reinvented now at the very top level with coming in at around 9m hl, which is such as the UK. They represent significant Liebfraumilch and Hock, which will help into three brackets: some great sales successes.” average. It is the best thing we can ask volumes but are extremely low margin us to gain back market share in the UK.” l low end, former ‘Liebfraumilch’ He says Niederkirchener Weinmacher for. We hope to keep the slightly higher bottom-shelf supermarket ‘lubricants’, But let us not dwell on the substrata category has been active for some years in the prices but would like to win back some essentially for ageing drinkers or ‘oil’ that keeps the wheels of the German l premium segment, ‘modern Germany’: premium segment (US $10  p32

30 Drinks International february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 31 German Wine

Steffen Schindler: Riesling is the re-positioner of Germany as a world- class wine producer

consumer) with its brand Blue Fish Original Riesling. He sees ‘modern Germany’ as the key driver. Schindler says: “For many years our marketing strategy on foreign markets was very much focused on Riesling. We used Riesling to re-position Germany as a producer of world-class white wines and to overcome stereotypes. This strategy has definitely paid off, at least when it comes to people in the trade, sommeliers, journalists, but it may take a little more market, Riesling is still the king of Germany is predominantly coalition partner, Weingut Robert Weil in time to filter down to every typical German wine. The international export a white wine country but its the Rheingau, will host the International reds are starting to attract consumer in some of our markets. market is very important for us, and we attention too Riesling Symposium in Germany in “For a few years now we have included think there is still enormous potential for November 2014. Spätburgunder, or Pinot Noir as a second growth with German wines. The focus Germany’s key markets remain ‘message’ in our marketing activities. for German wines internationally clearly the usual suspects: US, UK and the On one hand this seems an ever greater needs to remain with Riesling. This is the Netherlands. Despite what Beynat says, task than the re-positioning of Riesling variety that defines Germany as a wine- China, including Hong Kong, is coming because nobody thought of Germany as producing nation. up fast. a red wine country in the first place, but He adds: “There is a trend towards Schindler says there isn’t an institute on the other hand there is the advantage well-balanced, drier styles. Improved outpost yet but they have produced a that the overall image of German wine viticulture, better cellar practices and, brochure on wine and Asian cuisines (bad has improved dramatically over the past to be perfectly honest, the warming luck), a booklet explaining the wine and decade and that Pinot Noir can profit climate, have made balanced, full-bodied Germany’s top there is a website in the making. from a growing interest in German wine. dry Rieslings much more possible in export markets “It certainly helps that Germany is the Germany, even in very cool regions such Niche player US third biggest producer of Pinot Noir in as the Mosel.” 1 Armin Wagner, export director, at 2 UK the world and that many wine writers Loosen reports that an international Langguth, owner of the Blue Nun brand, 3 Netherlands have endorsed our major red variety in coalition of Riesling producers will host says proudly: “There has been a lot of 4 Norway recent years.” (See panel again.) major Riesling events around the world 5 Russia hype but we have been in China for 15 Ernst Loosen, the outspoken and each year. The next event is the Frankland 6 China (inc Hong Kong) years so it is not new to us and we have mercurial owner of Dr Loosen, rejoins: Estate International Riesling Tasting in 7 Canada been in Thailand and Japan for 30 years. “In the German home market, the three Sydney, Australia (February 6-7). In July 8 Sweden “We are seeing Merlot, Cabinet Pinot varieties (Gris, Blanc and Noir) 2013, Dr. Loosen will co-host the fourth 9 Japan Sauvignon and Dornfelder taking on and domestic red blends are becoming Riesling Rendezvous in Washington, with 10 France almost an equal role to the whites. very popular. But for the international Chateau Ste. Michelle. Loosen’s other Source: Deutsches Weininstitute We have to accept that the  p34

32 Drinks International drinksint.com february 2012 German Wine

German category is a niche player. in the main field”, but acknowledges that has just announced the launch of Blue internationally. Nine million hectolitres the likes of Silvaner, Dornfelder and Pinot Nun Delicate, a range of four 5.5% wine- by its nature is niche compared to our Noir are niche varieties compared to the based drinks made with “full-bodied, near neighbours. We are not mass market, global palate busters of Chardonnay, aromatic wine and fruit flavours, claiming we cannot be. We have to work on Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet to bring a different and exciting addition concepts and look for upgrades. It is an Sauvignon and Merlot, with a little bit of to the category”. ongoing challenge. We have to act as a Tempranillo. niche player but not be defensive. Schritz says the company is pushing Lower alcohol “We must concentrate on specialities Riesling where there is a demand for it. Maybe not something for the purists and excellent quality as our costs are high He says it is “like pushing water uphill in but, with the likes of Eisberg – the anyway. German competence is primarily the UK”, whereas in the US, the Nordics non-alcoholic wine made in Germany with white wine but Pinot Noir is a and China it chimes. – Germany is seen as the home of positive aspect.” Norway is interesting. It is Germany’s lower-alcohol wines and wine-based To that end Langguth last year fourth biggest market and its best drinks. Supermarket buyers, conscious relaunched four wines – its Blue Nun performing. Every third litre of white of media and government pressures, are Riesling, Pinot Noir, Dornfelder rosé and wine consumed is German. How come? increasingly looking to offer low alcohol Pinot Grigio. The original Blue Nun in its Is it just that there is a buyer in the products. fluted blue bottle is now exclusively from monopoly that loves German wine? Germany maybe niche and its expertise the Rivaner grape. Schindler puts it down to two things. predominately in white wine, but its Langguth’s key markets are Firstly, the Norwegians eat a lot of fish. industry is highly organised and totally Scandinavia, UK and the Americas as Secondly, he thinks the Norwegians focused. It knows what it is good at so it well as Asia, he says: “And then there is are influenced heavily by some British plays to its strengths. Germany also knows eastern Europe where we have been doing wine writers who have eulogised about that the wine trade and wine drinkers business for 20 years.” German Rieslings. like to play and dabble, so they a have The other big German brand is Black Wagner at Langguth points to another aces up their sleeves with Pinot Noir and Tower, owned by Reh Kendermann. trend he describes as a “longer burn”, alternative white grape varieties. On top Joint managing director Nik Schritz tells which is German wines’ natural low of that, as long as the climate does not Drinks International that he wants to “be alcohol. He says: “There is more talk continue to warm (and that throws up about it than the consumer asking for other opportunities as southern France, it but certainly the trend it will become Spain and Italy become semi-deserts), they more important.” can offer refreshing lower-alcohol wines to He undoubtedly has a point and, health conscious drinkers. ironically, at the time of writing Langguth International, niche, can be nice. DI

Key Facts

Germany is: n the third largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world n the world’s largest producer of Silvaner n the biggest maker of Pinot Blanc and Lemberger (Blaufrankisch) wines

n German Riesling has been established internationally n Riesling defines Germany as a world-class wine producer n 75 to 80% of German wines are consumed within the home market n For a wine-producing country, Germany is significantly open, with approximately 46% of wine drunk on the domestic market being local n The share of white wines drunk domestically is increasing (46% to 48% in 2010) and plantings of white wine varieties rose from 63.6% to 64.1% n Organic vineyards represent 5% (5,000ha) of Germany’s plantings, The area has doubled in four years – one of the highest proportions (Top) Armin Wagner worldwide. (Left) Marian Kopp

34 Drinks International drinksint.com february 2012 Prowein Preview

he ProWein exhibition seems Exhibitor news to continue to do the running ProWein organisers are ProWein Research when it comes to trade shows Wine Intelligence takes a stand for Conducted by Wine Intelligence in China, US, Germany and the UK in Europe. It is bigger this year the first time expecting more than 3,700 The headlines and there is a new hall called Wine Intelligence will be taking a stand All four countries care about alcohol content of wine and are 7.1.T That will be the platform or showcase at ProWein for the first time and will be exhibitors for next month’s increasingly looking for lower alcohol wines. for organic wines, which now account hosting a seminar programme on Tuesday Consumers care about the country of origin, especially China. for 5% of total area under cultivation in March 6. show in Dusseldorf. Organic, sustainable and Fairtrade wines are especially important to German vineyards and 8% in Austria. Wine Intelligence, the leading UK German and Chinese drinkers and only to some extent to US consumers. The largest producer of organic wines in research-led strategy consultancy, recently Christian Davis raises UK consumers are not particularly bothered. terms of area is Spain, with approximately announced that it is merging with German consumers are willing to pay more than e5 a bottle. 54,000ha. Fepeco (Federación Española Wine-Networks, the German-based wine the curtain France is more popular than Australia in the strategically important UK de Empresas con Productos Ecológicos), industry consultancy business owned by market, particularly among younger wine drinkers. the body for Spanish table wine and Wilhelm Lerner. China sherry producers, will be represented in Wine-Networks is a consulting and Chile is the second preferred country of origin. France is the clear leader the new hall along with other like-minded research business that serves the wine with 57% preference among upper middle class wine drinkers, followed organisations. industry principally in Germany, Austria, by Chile (10%), China (5%), Italy (4%) and Australia (3%). Despite the ProWein name, organiser Italy and eastern Europe. Its main clients Young wine drinkers (18-29) are more likely to choose white (8%) and to Messe Düsseldorf says it has lined up include Sopexa Germany, Felix Solis, say they don’t know or don’t care which colour their ideal wine is (9). some 300 spirits suppliers. In the Spirits Wines of New Zealand, Osborne, Wines Chile is more popular among men and 30-plus. Hall, 7a, bartenders have been lined up of Chile and Casella. Argentina is more popular among women and 18 to 29-year-olds. to show off their recipes in the Fizzz Wine Intelligence has 60 clients in 25 Women are more likely to choose Italian wine than men. Lounge. Apparently a guy from the Ritz countries. It has associate offices in the Germany Curtain Club in Berlin, Arnd Heißen, is US, France, Australia and South Africa. 43% of German regular wine drinkers claim that their “ideal” bottle of developing drinks to go with perfumes. The companies have worked together wine costs e5 or more. Whatever next? A beer to go with your for the past eight years. Key drivers of this: underarm deodorant? The Fizzz lounge Wilhelm Lerner will join Wine Red wine sounds like a must. Intelligence as associate director, country Men: their average is e5.06 but their “ideal red” is e5.25 For buyers and specifiers specifically manager – Germany. Countries of origin: average price for ideal German wine is: e4.82, interested in matching wine with food, His main areas of focus for Wine France: e5.44, Italy: e5.22, Spain: e5.55, South Africa: e5.07. Hall 6 is the place to go. Around 30 Intelligence’s clients will be identifying US exhibitors will be showing quality market opportunities in Germany and On with Red wine is considered more premium. delicatessen-type foods which are said other parts of central and eastern Europe. Natural cork remains the preferred choice. to be perfect for either wine or spirits. Lerner will continue to work for Arthur 18 to 34s most likely to view white wine as their ideal wine. Participants come from Germany, Spain D Little as partner in its Frankfurt office. Preferred white wine by age: 18 to 34s prefer Pinot Grigio; 35 to 44s and Photo: Shutterstock and Italy in particular. 55-plus prefer Riesling; 45 to 54s prefer Chardonnay. The central tasting zone, one of the show New Look City of London Gin and UK highlights where visitors can taste upwards James Brookes Range Abv does matter and women and drinkers of white wine are looking for of 1,000 wines, is moving to the new hall, Burlington Drinks is unveiling the new lighter styles. 7.1, which is near the north entrance. This design of its City of London Gin at 15% of regular wine drinkers say their ideal wine is from France, yet year the theme is Wines of Origin. The Prowein. Hall 7a, stand B15. Australia is the UK’s leading source of imported wine. organisers say: “People will be able to Burlington says City of London Gin re-launched and upgraded to offer a Affinity to French wines is greater among men. discover exciting, authentic wines from all is a premium London Dry Gin distilled ProWein 2012 high quality package at a competitive 16% of young wine drinkers (18 to 34s) opt for France with Australia over the world, which express the regional to an original gin recipe. It features nine price. The range includes James Brookes lying fifth behind Italy, Chile and Spain. growing conditions along with their own botanicals including juniper and angelica. International Trade Fair whisky, gin and vodka. James Brookes UK regular wine drinkers favour screw cap over natural cork closures, recognisable wine profile.” Its James Brookes range has been Wines and Spirits. For whisky is a three-year-old blended but men prefer cork; women screwcap. trade visitors only scotch from the Scottish Highlands. James Brookes vodka is a triple-distilled Organiser: Messe vodka from 100% grain spirit and James Düsseldorf GmbH Brookes gin is a London dry gin (40%). distilled in small batches of 5,000 bottles the German Tourism Board’s focus director Monika Reule will be held in to a specific gin recipe with juniper and on German wine regions as a tourist English at 11.30am on Monday March Venue: Düsseldorf, Hayman Distillers has second batch coriander being the key botanicals. Each destination in 2012. 5. This will focus on the market position Exhibition Centre, Halls 3-6, of 1850 Reserve bottle is individually numbered alongside Visitors will have the opportunity to of German wine on a domestic and 7a, 7.0 + 7.1 Hayman Distillers will be showing the the batch number. taste wines from all 13 German wine- international level. second batch of Hayman’s 1850 Reserve. Smith & Cross Traditional Pot Still growing regions at the tasting zone on the The DWI will be holding networking Dates: March 4-6. Hayman’s 1850 Reserve is distilled to a Jamaica Rum (navy strength: 57%) will DWI stand (4G86). events for buyers and sommeliers recipe from the 1850s which is then also be on the stand. The wines shown will be chosen by from across the world during ProWein, Opening hours: daily from cask-rested in scotch whisky barrels regional wine associations, will be typical including the Orange Hour, an event 9am to 6pm for three to four weeks following German Wine Institute presents of the region they come from, and will for Dutch wine business professionals the tradition of Gin Palace-style regional wines cover all price points, from entry level to on March 4, and the Nordic Icebreaker www.messe-duesseldorf.de gin. Hall: 7a, stand: B15 The German Wine Institute (DWI) premium. for Scandinavian visitors, also on Hayman’s 1850 Reserve is is using a regional focus to highlight A press conference with DWI managing March 5.

36 Drinks International february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 37 WSET

From our own correspondent

In his regular column for DI, David Wrigley, the WSET’s international development director, is moving on to look at some of the various providers of WSET qualifications around the world, highlighting the opportunities – and problems – they face as they look to satisfy the global thirst for wine and spirit knowledge

hat better place to start than in WCanada, with a commentary from James Cluer MW, who runs Fine Vintage. James received the coveted Riedel Trophy for the WSET International Educator of the Year at the WSET’s annual Awards & Graduation Ceremony in London’s Guildhall on January 23rd. But James wasn’t just satisfied with Canada – he saw opportunities farther afield, as he explains here.

James Cluer MW explains “I sat my first WSET course when I was 18 the role of his Canadian while working for an importer in Hong Kong. company, Fine Vintage, in At the time, my boss said it was required providing WSET training to top airline Qatar training if I hoped to have a career in the drinks business. And he was right – WSET courses are the gold standard in wine and spirit education, retail store staff. We were fortunate to get others if we could train the cabin crew in wine. with international recognition. contracts with the British Columbian and Yukon “Given our experience with the WSET, we “The courses were very useful to me governments. Additionally, hotel clients such as proposed the courses. Qatar liked the fact that personally. They helped me get job offers and Fairmont Hotels & Resorts were keen to have they were internationally recognised certification also gave me a degree of credibility with my large numbers of their staff trained. Over the years courses. We then embarked on training well over peers. I had no idea that one day our core we have run private courses for restaurant groups, 1,000 cabin crew leading to the WSET Level 1 business would be offering WSET courses in retail chains and even private golf clubs. The and Level 2 qualifications. The crew now feel several cities in Canada, as well as to thousands WSET brand is very strong in parts of Canada. confident when presenting wines to passengers, of cabin crew at an airline in the Middle East, “When we started our business in 2005 partly because they have been able to taste them and various hotel chains, retailers and local we wanted to have a diversified client base. I and also have a WSET certificate. governments. approached Qatar Airways to offer my services as “The level of interest in wine education is “Fine Vintage began providing the courses a wine consultant and was hired on a short-term growing in many parts of the world. When in 2005. We wanted to offer students expert contract to select wines for all classes, and overhaul people in the trade and others research the instruction, extensive tastings of top quality its beverage programme. possibilities they seem to conclude that the WSET wines, a professional yet fun atmosphere, and “Fortunately, I am still working with Qatar and courses are the very best. After that, it’s just a to administrate the courses and exams efficiently. over the years it has won several awards at the question of who you take the WSET course from. “Once we had set our programme in place prestigious Cellars in the Sky competition. It is There are hundreds of providers around the we started opening schools. Today we have currently considered to have one of the best wine world, each offering different learning options, an active enrollment in six Canadian cities, programmes in the sky. and at Fine Vintage we like to think we have got including major centres such as Vancouver, “For Qatar’s senior management it was clear it about right.” Calgary, Toronto and now Montreal. We found that offering passengers top quality wines was that at least 50% of students were taking the one thing. But it was also important for the cabin Watch out for the next issue of Drinks courses for general interest, and those in the crew to be trained on the wines so they could International, when we will look at another trade were doing them for the same reasons that explain to passengers how they taste, where they provider of WSET programmes from around the I did a few decades ago. come from, and what foods they pair well with. world. “We also contacted various Liquor Control So it was clear that Qatar, one of the world’s only Contact David Wrigley at [email protected] Boards and offered our services to train their five-star airlines, would have an advantage over or via wsetglobal.com

48 Drinks International drinksint.com february 2012 WineZone

Seismic shift in South American Wines

Report: Christian Davis now produces 1 billion litres – worth $1.4bn and of which 70% is exported. It was also described as the most here has been a seismic shift in consolidated wine-producing nation in the Chilean and Argentinian the world. Twine industries, according to Attendees tasted flights of Chilean some leading experts. and Argentinian Sauvignon Blanc, Master of Wine Peter Richards Chardonnay, Carmenère and Malbec. was speaking at a seminar on South There was a major presentation by American wines last month in London. Brian Croser, one of the founders of The author of a definitive book on the modern Australian wine industry Chile, Richards said the two main and one of the world’s most respected wine-producing countries in South consultants on vineyard management America were growing so fast that and winemaking. View from the venue, Altitude in Millbank Tower by the Thames, London there has been a “seismic shift in the During the Chardonnay flight Atkin two competing industries”. He went commented that he was “appalled” by to the Andes to seek more elegant plain of grainy, fine, savoury tannins on to say in his opening remarks that the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) wines, was to be applauded. that were virtually unique to Chile it was “a time of great opportunity campaign. The well-known journalist Argentina is widely regarded and quite different from Bordeaux and there were opportunities as well and broadcaster said that, in his as having the highest commercial and Napa Valley Cabernets. He as risks”. opinion, Chardonnay – the grape vineyards in the world. There cited Western Australia’s Margaret Tim Atkin MW chaired the variety of white Burgundies such are some at just over 3,000m River and south-eastern Australia’s conference, which was sponsored by as Chablis – was a more noble above sea level. Richards told the Coonawarra as the only regions Santa Rita Estates, the major Chilean grape variety than Riesling. He said seminar audience that a vineyard which produced Cabernets of wine producer that farms 4,000ha we are living in a “golden age of was currently being planted at similar distinction. in both Chile and Argentina. Atkin Chardonnay”, adding that he had 3,500m in Chile’s Atacama desert On Malbec, Croser said that said that when he first visited Chile recently tasted a Chardonnay from as part of a mining company’s Argentina had managed to get in December 1990 there were 11 one of Argentinian producer Catena’s social welfare project. Drinks a fleshiness in its texture that companies that exported their wines. highest vineyards and it was “one of International asked what Australia had failed to get. There are now 300. the greatest Chardonnays I have ever grape varieties were being Atkin said he preferred the While Argentina is a long-standing, tasted”. planted but Richards had no new generation of Argentinian traditional grape grower – the 10th further details. Malbecs, which were fresher largest in the world – in 1989 Chile Moves to diversify Brian Croser gave a compared to those of some produced only 400 million litres of Richards in his address, titled Heritage quite technical presentation well-known consultants such as wine a year – valued at US$35m and & Heresy, warned that Chile was not revolving primarily around Michel Rolland or Paul Hobbs of which 7% was exported. Chile is going to be a “low cost producer (of optimum diurnal temperature which he found he could only now the largest exporter of wine in wine) forever”. Therefore Chilean ranges for wine grape growing, drink one glass of. the world after Australia and was moves to more diversity in its wine the genetics of varieties, In an amusing aside, Atkin increasingly looking to new markets offerings, more premium wines and Cabernet Franc being the asked whether Chile’s ‘unique’ such as Brazil, China and Canada. It plantings near to the coast and closer ‘father’ of Carmenère and grape, Carmenère was a Malbec and Pyrazines. He said “first division grape variety”. Tim Atkin, Andres Ilabaca and Brian the Chilean wine industry was centred Richards, after some hesitation, said Croser get to grips with the tasting on the Cabernet family of grape he thought it was. A far more sceptical varieties: Cabenet Sauvignon and Atkin gave a football analogy: “It has Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Carmenere recently been promoted to the Premier and spoke of the “rewards of refining League (UK football’s first division) that base”. and under new management it may Croser went on to talk about the avoid relegation but it will never make new exciting matrix of possibilities in Europe, the Champions’ League.” familiar varieties such as Chardonnay, He felt that for Carmenère to Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot succeed as a single grape variety Noir. Also, he sees tremendous in a wine, where the vines were opportunities in cool southern Chile planted and who was the winemaker for sparkling wine grape varieties. or consultant (nod to Croser) was Croser complimented Chilean crucial – more crucial than with other Cabernet Sauvignon saying that it had leading grape varieties. The two best spicy briary notes plus the essence Carmenères in the Carmenère flight of Cabernet: mulberry, cassis on a both turned out to be blends.

38 Drinks International drinksint.com february 2012 in association with

Whisky

or as long as I can remember I have you’re not getting that one from me; travelled – for interest, for work but or b) I can’t remember exact locations. mostly for Johnnie Walker. Going to bars Like the small riverside bar in Saigon Fisn’t quite in the job description, but it that mixed chocolate with scotch in a might as well be. Twenty-four years later and I have bain marie then chilled it. Served in small seen a few. Some good, some bad, some great, but glasses as the sun went down, sublime. all different. It should be so straightforward, a venue In the end these are all experiences. There – some bottles, some glasses and paying clientele – is nothing like arriving at these 10. They all but it is not. surprised me when I first went there and they World bars: quest The bars listed here are among my favourites all embody that magical combination of style for the best because they are at the top of this impossible game. and substance. All of them form a wonderful Most have a very real sense of geographic identity; sensory map of the world over time. These This month, well-travelled whisky all have incredible staff, skill and service that you are destinations for those who like to/have to expert Jonathan Driver shares his never notice but which is omnipresent. travel but want to find something extraordinary, take on the World’s Best Whisky Bars There are many that are not on this list because welcoming and ultimately memorable. a) they are secret: there is a bar in Sydney where Jonathan Driver, global brand ambassador, Austin Powers would simply blend into the walls and Johnnie Walker Blue Label Shutterstock/Alexey Lysenko

Campbell Apartment Angel’s Share 15 Grand Central Station, Vanderbilt 2/F, Amber Lodge 23 Hollywood Road Central, Hong Kong Avenue, New York 10017 angelsshare.hk hospitalityholidays.com he traveller’s city, Hong Kong. My favourite harbour in the world. Just above Central is Lan Kwai Fong, an insanely concentrated entertainment district packed with bars, restaurants and bustle. TCharlene Dawes, the glamorous owner of the Angel’s Share in LKF holds court in a beautiful repository of fine taste and flavours. Smoke wafts over the glasses for a multisensory whisky cocktail. The drinks and attention to detail and fun is that wonderful Hong Kong amalgam of 1920s classics and 21st century experimentation. As befits a trading entrepot, the Angel’s Share is an emporium of the exotic and delicious. They have fish and chips too. Shutterstock/SeanParonePhoto

ew York, the ritual. Grand Central Station, the Oyster Bar and evening drinks at the Campbell Apartment. Voted best bar in America by Playboy (natch), this is open to all but a devil to find. NOnce the luxurious office of tycoon John W Campbell, it was rediscovered in the 1990s when the station had its facelift. There is a curious Mad Men meets The Borgias combo in the design. Baroque decoration, leaded windows, medieval fireplaces and a very cool NY clientele mere yards from the tracks. Johnnie Walker Black Label, rocks, delivered with surgical precision to the discerning rail migrant.

february 2012 drinksint.com Drinks International 41 in association with

focus on whisky New York Bar Park Hyatt Hotel, Nishi-Shinjuku tokyo.park.hyatt.com There is always going to be Tokyo. More bars than anywhere else on earth. Choosing a favourite bar in Japan is like choosing a favourite offspring – pretty much impossible. But for so many reasons the New York Bar at the Hyatt in Shinjuku is almost pitch perfect and out of this world. You won’t find Ms Johansson but there is recompense – the view from the 52nd floor as Tokyo’s metropolis disappears out to 360°. It is Bond, Blade Runner and a little bit of The Shining all thrown in together. Did I mention the jazz is pretty sublime?

Not all raspberries are created equal Eau de Vie 229 Darlinghurst Road, Darlinghurst, Sydney eaudevie.com.au Australia has it all – every size, shape and style of bar/restaurant imaginable. I’ve been to Eau de Vie (above) every single time I’ve been to Australia, a speakeasy in look and feel, nestling in the Darlinghurst district. Sven Almenning gets my custom because he brings it all together: modern art, vintage drinking Inferior tasting fruit means Meeker and Polana paraphernalia, a hidden room of super-premium scotch that is one of the great hidden delights. But for knowledge, passion and breathtaking service in a place inferior tasting cocktails. varieties from Poland and that looks like it is about to be raided by Eliot Ness at any moment, Eau de Vie So we travel the world in Chile. If you’re going to just captures the excitement of being a great bar. search of the very best. create the finest cocktails, For us that means only the the least we can do is give CentralE Restaurant and Bar Mar Maroun Street, Saifi,B eirut most vibrant, handpicked, you the very best fruit centralerestaurant.com sun-ripened nature provides. The Paris of the Mediterranean. I came to Beirut late in my career but I seem to have known it all my life. The seafront, the mountains, the narrow streets, the cafes and the 24-hour life were just exactly how I imagined they should be. Centrale, just near Gemmayze, combines old premises with an amazingly You l Spirit l funkin l The Perfect Cocktail futuristic tunnel bar that hangs suspended above the newly rebuilt 1920s restaurant below. A retractable roof gives stunning views of the harbour. The feel is of a cocktail bar at 35,000ft. The crush is amazing but works as a young crowd sip and converse as the Beirut night grows later and later.

42 Drinks International drinksint.com february 2012 in association with focus on whisky

Le Lion Bar de Paris Entrée Rathausstrasse, Hamburg 20095 2 Battersea Rise, London SW11 1ED lelion.net entreebattersea.co.uk Something out of Len Deighton. Le Lion Bar de Paris on the Rathausstrasse in However far you travel there is nothing quite like turning the ship for home. Part Hamburg is Jörg Meyer’s European cocktail emporium. This is the cocktail lounge of coming back to south west London will inevitably involve a visit to the small redux; the charm lies in the manners, the attention to detail. It is regarded as the and perfectly formed Bentley Bar at Entrée. Just on Battersea Rise proprietor finest cocktail bar in Germany. I remember the enormous Meyer serving smoky Jayke Mangion has created a wonderful subterranean enclave for lovers of great Blood & Sand with Blue Label, then Whiskey Mash with fresh mint. Sophisticated, drinks. A clever, well edited drinks menu, fresh ingredients, some great classic mellow and very sexy ambience mixes with gorgeous cocktails and a cleverly cocktails and fastidious preparation add to the intimate experience of dropping in edited drinks menu (15 drinks), but you come back for the service. I love that it is, on the way home. The Negroni are beautiful to look at and delicious to drink. for once, not on the other side of the world.

Area Bar and Terrace at the Habita Av Presidente Masaryk 201, Polanco, Mexico City hotelhabita.com Decadence. And why not? The Area Bar on the roof of Hotel Habita in Mexico City appears never to close. During the day you can sit with some gorgeous and scantily clad members of the elite at the pool (if you get past the bouncers). Watching the sun go down over the verdant avenues and squares of Polanco, it is a bit like starring in a Mexican version of Dynasty. However, sitting on a bar stool, looking out over the city below and the mountains far away, Cosmopolitan in hand, listening to the music and dancing a little (OK, a very little) – very, very hedonistic.

Coburg Bar The Connaught, Carlos Place, London W1K 2AL the-connaught.co.uk The Coburg (below) at the Connaught with Mark Jenner at the helm is a chance to get that little piece of deluxe on a wet, cold December afternoon in ye olde London towne. Historic, elegant and grand but the atmosphere is completely unstuffy, as new and old rub shoulders and the buzz allows for conversation of every manner imaginable – assignments, assignations and possibly assassinations. This is Mayfair after all. The drinks are of the highest order. A whisky Sour at the Coburg is like nothing else you’ve ever tried. Perhaps not the cheapest bar you’ll ever go to, but you get what you pay for. A grand night out.

The Blue Bar at Gleneagles Auchterarder, Perthshire, Scotland PH3 1NF gleneagles.com When the day job is selling Johnnie Walker at the far edges of the world there is a time when you just have to come back to where it all began – Scotland. In the wilds of Auchterarder you can find the new Blue Bar (above) at Gleneagles in which to savour this experience. The whisky selection is of the highest order and can be sipped in a courtyard which is literally under sail with big heated sofas, a roaring wood fire and pre-embargo Cuban cigars. Even in midwinter this is an extraordinary experience to be sipping Johnnie Walker Blue Label while watching the snow fall around the bar.

43 Drinks International drinksint.com february 2012 BARZONE

BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS CO

beer brands get Search for the world’s Volare cocktail of the month pizza the action greatest Gin connoisseur

Wondering what pizza to have with your beer? You need a G’Vine Gin has launched its Gin Connoisseur Program and will allow for an interesting and creative programme.” rugby player and a BeerGenie. (GCP) 2012 – the global search for the world’s best gin The prize includes an intercontinental bar tour to the top Ahead of National Pizza Week (February 6-12), BeerGenie bartender. This year, the theme will hark back to a golden annual events in the world of spirits, including Tales of the teamed up with Domino’s Pizza in the UK and the Saracens era of cocktail making with French Classics. Cocktail in New Orleans, US and Bar Convent Berlin, in and rugby team to offer their favourite beer and pizza pairings. It’s more than just your average cocktail competition Germany. The winner will also receive a year’s supply of Sounds like tough research. and, as well as being impeccable hosts, technically skilled G’Vine Gin for their bar, a platinum vine flower pin and Former South Africa captain John Smit’s favourite bartenders, creative mixologists and engaging personalities, US$3,000. Not to mention recognition as the “finest gin combination is Florentine paired with Birra Moretti the finalists will have to know everything there is to know bartender on the planet”. (4.6%abv). On the spice front, the team chose India Pale Ale about gin. All entrants must complete online exams on legcp.fr. Worthington White Shield (5.6%abv) to accompany the New Previous winners include Stephan Hinz (Germany) and Bartenders who can attend a preliminary contest hosted in In this month’s Volare Yorker – pepperoni, ham, bacon and mushrooms. We tried Gegam Kazarian (Spain) while among the world finalist have the UK, France, Spain, Canada & the US throughout spring In The Mix Gianluigi it and thought the hoppy beer stood up and saluted the been Jeff Bell (PDT, New York), Jill Saunders (The Savoy, can qualify for the World Finals in Cognac in June. Bosco, Volare global pepperoni before washing down the cheesy goodness in London), Brian MacGregor (Jasper’s Tap, San Francisco), Bartenders who can’t attend a preliminary can enter as brand ambassador, is a refreshing gush. beergenie.co.uk David Wolowidnyk (West, Vancouver) and Martin Lange Wild Cards, completing the same online exams but making going to show you a Michel Roux has always wanted (Sling Lounge, Brisbane). an Xtranormal cartoon video (xtranormal.com) using the recipe using Volare to make a Le Gavroche wine Audrey Fort, marketing & business development director theme French Classics. Brown Cacao, a Southern of brand owner Euro Wine Gate said: “We couldn’t call this The 15 world finalists will be announced in May and will liqueur produced chef serves up house special the search for the world’s best gin bartender if it was only be flown to Cognac for a week of extraordinary challenges via percolation of comfort’s limited to G’Vine outlets. Any bartender, anywhere who under the watchful eyes of Jean Sébastien Robicquet, the finest cacao beans from Africa. London chef Michel Roux Jr has joined forces with French winemaker Michel Chapoutier to create works full time, who loves gin and who is willing to do the president of EWG and creator and master distiller of G’Vine, This month we’re going to mix it with two type festive fun wines named after Roux’s restaurant, Le Gavroche. work has an equal chance of being crowned the world’s best master mixologists Philip Duff, Gary Regan, and marketing of bitters produced by our new partner for the The wines – one red, one white – are to be sold at the two-Michelin starred Le Gavroche gin bartender in Cognac next June. & business development director of EWG, Audrey Fort. To channel, the legendary Angostura®. Our recipe restaurant in London. They are made from organic and biodynamic grapes. The red, from the “Our 2012 theme – French Classics – is ideal for G’Vine enter, visit legcp.fr. is a bourbon-based after-dinner cocktail prepared Shrove Tuesday and the eminently Languedoc, is Grenache Noir and Syrah. The white, from Ardeche, is a Viognier. using a quite unique technique. Here’s the more exotic Mardi Gras are with us on Michel Roux Jr said: “I have always wanted to make a Le Gavroche wine; something that would recipe: February 21. Of course, Mardi Gras complement our food and reflect the great heritage of our restaurant. translates to Fat Tuesday in French – “I knew that if we ever did get round to it, Chapoutier would definitely be the man for the job SHIONED so it’s only right that the modern- and I think everyone who tastes our wines will agree that we’ve managed to create something TOASTED OLD FA day celebration is met with a good pretty special.” 20ml Volare Brown Cacao liqueur measure of compunction-free feasting. Chapoutier has supplied wines to Le Gavroche for more than 40 years. 1 dash Angostura® aromatic bitters Brown-Forman’s New Orleans- The Le Gavroche red wine is priced at £34 a bottle, and the white at £32 (prices not inclusive of 3 dashes Angostura® orange bitters derived Southern Comfort brand has 12.5% service charge). 40ml bourbon picked up the theme and knocked up a 8/9 hazelnuts menu of food and drink worthy of the day’s merriment. Jura In a fine strainer, toast the hazelnuts Here are the drinks: ’s enduring pairings with a small torch. Drop them into a mixing Jura, the Whyte & Mackay single malt, has the Indian coffee Malabar Monsooned. glass and crush them. Add the rest of the teamed up with its coffee industry namesake to Southern The “rich and full bodied” qualities of Jura’s ingredients, ice and stir well until you get the create a range of whisky and coffee pairings. Hurricane 16 Year Old are said to complement the “fruity right dilution. Double strain into a cocktail As part of a promotion, customers purchasing In a shaker with ice add yet spiciness” of Fazenda da Lagoa. glass with an ice ball and garnish with an ➔ 1½ oz Southern Comfort a Jura coffee machine will be offered a free For an after dinner combination, Paterson orange zest. ➔ 1½ oz Sweet and sour mix taster pack of Jura whiskies, a pack of Jura suggests the 21 Year Old works well with the ➔ 1½ oz Orange juice coffee and a box of luxury chocolates. “chocolate, molasses and muscavado” tones of ➔ 1½ oz Pineapple juice Whyte & Mackay master blender Richard Jura’s World of Coffee blend. Use the QR code with your smartphone to be Paterson worked with the Swiss coffee firm to directed to the video tutorial for this cocktail ➔ Splash of grenadine Paterson said: “It’s long been recognised that create the pairings, combining each of Jura’s – and don’t forget to Strain into hurricane glass and garnish with cherry and orange. coffee and whisky complement each other, so core expressions with a different blend of it’s been a delight to work with our namesake - subscribe to our YouTube SoCo Fiery Pepper Bloody Mary coffee. Jura Coffee – to help create these pairings. channel as new videos will According to Paterson, the “peat and be uploaded weekly. (a spicy twist on a favourite cocktail) “The combinations that we’ve chosen really ➔ 2oz Southern Comfort Fiery Pepper spice” notes of Jura Superstition match well highlight the full range of special signature you-tube.com/ ➔ 6oz Bloody Mary mix with Jura’s Impressa coffee blend, which has flavours within our single malt whiskies, while volareinthemix ➔ Squeeze of lime flavours of bitter chocolate and burnt wood. bringing out the full flavour of each blend of The “light and delicate” 10 Year Old has been Combine ingredients in a tall glass with ice. Stir cautiously. coffee. The two together will definitely give you paired with the “spicy roasted coffee” notes of Gaz Regan gets creative at last year’s event promotional feature Garnish with a celery stick. a taste experience to savour.”

46 Drinks International february 2012drinksint.com Drinks International 47 BARZONE

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48 Drinks International WSET

From our own correspondent

In his regular column for DI, David Wrigley, the WSET’s international development director, is moving on to look at some of the various providers of WSET qualifications around the world, highlighting the opportunities – and problems – they face as they look to satisfy the global thirst for wine and spirit knowledge

hat better place to start than in WCanada, with a commentary from James Cluer MW, who runs Fine Vintage. James received the coveted Riedel Trophy for the WSET International Educator of the Year at the WSET’s annual Awards & Graduation Ceremony in London’s Guildhall on January 23rd. But James wasn’t just satisfied with Canada – he saw opportunities farther afield, as he explains here.

James Cluer MW explains “I sat my first WSET course when I was 18 the role of his Canadian while working for an importer in Hong Kong. company, Fine Vintage, in At the time, my boss said it was required providing WSET training to top airline Qatar training if I hoped to have a career in the drinks business. And he was right – WSET courses are the gold standard in wine and spirit education, retail store staff. We were fortunate to get others if we could train the cabin crew in wine. with international recognition. contracts with the British Columbian and Yukon “Given our experience with the WSET, we “The courses were very useful to me governments. Additionally, hotel clients such as proposed the courses. Qatar liked the fact that personally. They helped me get job offers and Fairmont Hotels & Resorts were keen to have they were internationally recognised certification also gave me a degree of credibility with my large numbers of their staff trained. Over the years courses. We then embarked on training well over peers. I had no idea that one day our core we have run private courses for restaurant groups, 1,000 cabin crew leading to the WSET Level 1 business would be offering WSET courses in retail chains and even private golf clubs. The and Level 2 qualifications. The crew now feel several cities in Canada, as well as to thousands WSET brand is very strong in parts of Canada. confident when presenting wines to passengers, of cabin crew at an airline in the Middle East, “When we started our business in 2005 partly because they have been able to taste them and various hotel chains, retailers and local we wanted to have a diversified client base. I and also have a WSET certificate. governments. approached Qatar Airways to offer my services as “The level of interest in wine education is “Fine Vintage began providing the courses a wine consultant and was hired on a short-term growing in many parts of the world. When in 2005. We wanted to offer students expert contract to select wines for all classes, and overhaul people in the trade and others research the instruction, extensive tastings of top quality its beverage programme. possibilities they seem to conclude that the WSET wines, a professional yet fun atmosphere, and “Fortunately, I am still working with Qatar and courses are the very best. After that, it’s just a to administrate the courses and exams efficiently. over the years it has won several awards at the question of who you take the WSET course from. “Once we had set our programme in place prestigious Cellars in the Sky competition. It is There are hundreds of providers around the we started opening schools. Today we have currently considered to have one of the best wine world, each offering different learning options, an active enrollment in six Canadian cities, programmes in the sky. and at Fine Vintage we like to think we have got including major centres such as Vancouver, “For Qatar’s senior management it was clear it about right.” Calgary, Toronto and now Montreal. We found that offering passengers top quality wines was that at least 50% of students were taking the one thing. But it was also important for the cabin Watch out for the next issue of Drinks courses for general interest, and those in the crew to be trained on the wines so they could International, when we will look at another trade were doing them for the same reasons that explain to passengers how they taste, where they provider of WSET programmes from around the I did a few decades ago. come from, and what foods they pair well with. world. “We also contacted various Liquor Control So it was clear that Qatar, one of the world’s few Contact David Wrigley at [email protected] Boards and offered our services to train their five-star airlines, would have an advantage over or via wsetglobal.com

48 Drinks International drinksint.com february 2012 BARZONE

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Pure Gould Former Drinks International editor Patience Gould on whether scotch will end up as common as salmon

Drinks International, Zurich House, t’s hard to remember those long lost days when salmon, Scotch is the most exported East Park, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 6AS let alone smoked salmon, was a rarity and only served spirit in the world, and United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1293 590040 I – if you were lucky – as a treat on high days and holidays. producers have never been Thanks to fish farming and the like, fresh and smoked fussy about how consumers Editor Christian Davis salmon are as commonplace on retail shelves these days enjoy their product. They +44 (0)1293 590047 as eggs and bacon. But sadly they no longer have that advise, but if some idiot [email protected] special-occasion feel. wants to dump ice and Coke Deputy Editor Lucy Britner So too it must seem an awful long time ago when scotch in the likes of The Macallan 18 Year Old, then so be it. After +44 (0)1293 590046 whisky was as revered in Japan. There was a time when all, it happens in China with Petrus. [email protected] giving a bottle of scotch, and which particular brand, said All of which is a very long way round of coming to India, News/Web Editor Hamish Smith more about your standing than money ever could. But where the SWA is involved in talks which will result in the +44 (0)1293 590045 when the Japanese government gave way to the scotch Free Trade Agreement which is currently being negotiated [email protected] Whisky Association et al and gave scotch a level playing with the European Union. If successful, then tariffs would Production Editor Jaq Bayles field in terms of tariffs and duties, it seemed that have to come down. The SWA is looking for a reduction +44 (0)1293 590048 overnight scotch had become an affordable to the likes of 20% (currently levied in Brazil) or [email protected] spirit and had lost that all-important even 10% (currently levied in China). Commercial Director cachet. At the moment in India, tariffs are a Justin Smith Unthinkable though it is, this could whopping 150%, which means that a +44 (0)1293 590041 have happened to Champagne, £10 bottle of scotch becomes £25 [email protected] but thanks to the unerring belief before it even gets into distribution. Senior Account Manager the Champagne Bureau has in its Pre-2000, the tariff was in the order Carmen Poel Francesch sherbet, it remains the hallmark of a of 750%, which is patently ridiculous. +44 (0)1293 590042 carmen.poel@ special occasion. I remember years But ironically these tariffs do – albeit drinksint.com ago listening in growing amazement inadvertently – add an allure to scotch Senior Account Manager to the then head of the CB telling that no amount of marketing could Roger Betriu me how they had to take action over a imbue the spirit of Scotland with. +44 (0)1293 590043 bubble bath manufacturer who had the Should scotch become an affordable [email protected] temerity to call it Champagne something purchase on a weekly or even daily basis, it will Events Coordinator or other. go the way of salmon and smoked salmon. +44 (0)1293 590050 At the time I thought the CB’s actions were quite India is the largest spirits market in the world with an Monica Tapias unnecessary – but oh shallow youth! I can, of course, now annual tally of 250 million cases sold and of that total [email protected] see it was absolutely necessary – if the term Champagne 140 million cases are whisky, and scotch accounts for Events Account Manager was allowed to be splattered on anything it would be 1.5m cases, which is pretty good going considering the Jo Morley a disaster. I am not sure Picasso would have been too obstacles. Additionally, in the six months ending June 2011, +44 (0)1293 590044 thrilled having his name plastered on the Citroën C4 – or 24.2 million bottles of scotch were shipped to India – a Shutterstock/ R ichard Griffin [email protected] indeed whether one of the founders of cubism is the ideal 26% increase on the corresponding 2010 period. Accounts Annette O’Connell nomenclature for a car – but that’s another argument. It’s these statistics that have producers drooling all +44 (0)1293 590051 Cognac, too, is zealously protected both in terms of the way to the bank – because on paper the potential is [email protected] its AOC status and even to the ways and occasions of enormous if they were playing on a more level pitch – and Publisher drinking it. Some might say too much in this case and I don’t dispute this. I adore caviar, but if I could afford to Russell Dodd that’s why the eau-de-vie producers are finding it such a eat it every day or even once a week, I think that adoration +44 (0)1293 590052 hurdle to jump onto the cocktail bandwagon. This, I have would probably soon wane. [email protected] to say, has never been the case with scotch whisky. That said, I wouldn’t mind putting it to the test.

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50 Drinks International drinksint.com february 2012