Cambodia on a PLATE

Promoting sustainable tourism through local products 2 The CambodianRoyal Ballet, being restoredandprotected. World Heritagesitethatis Angkor eachyear, aUNESCO visit thefabledtemplesof More thanamilliontourists least aslongtorebuildit. 1980s andithastakenat ravages ofthe1970sand cultural heritageescapedthe No partofCambodia’s plate’? Why ‘Cambodiaona C saltiness, sweetness, sourness saltiness, sweetness,sourness delicate balancebetween vibrant flavors,andavery a combinationofcomplex, in abundance.Thiscuisineis unripe fruitsandfishareused Fresh ,ripeand of fatandmeats. aromatic herbs,withlittleuse its flavourfromspicesand often compared.Itderives Vietnam, towhichitismost neighboring Thailandand uniquely differentfrom flowersalad,stirfriedeggplant(aubergine)andmachoukroeungwithbeef ambodian is ambodian cuisineis Cambodia ona

on aPLATE PLATE of theirowncuisineanda discovering therichhistory Cambodians arealsore- world. inthe Heritage ofHumanity’ of theoralandintangible one ofonly89‘Masterpieces recognised byUNESCOas puppetry ( world tours.Khmershadow new troupethatperformson the lastcentury, hastraineda in theearlyandmidpartof a frequentperformerinParis is served in and with sauce isservedinandwith fermented. AsinVietnam, salted, dried,smoked,and fish inCambodiawhichis both freshandseawater There isanabundanceof and kaffirlime. such aslemongrass, indigenous aromaticherbs made theirownbyadding whichtheyhave the artofblendingspice Cambodians haveinherited From India,bywayofJava, appreciation fortextures. and bitterness,withakeen sbaek thom ) is made products. locally-grown andlocally- the purchaseanduseof benefit fromtourismthrough encourage greaterlocal cuisine and,intheprocess, and enjoyCambodian local businessestoexplore aims toinspirevisitorsand ‘Cambodia onaPlate’ Cambodian . plaudits fortheirpassion are winninginternational group ofdedicatedchefs and mostinterestingcuisines. healthiest, mostbalanced making itoneoftheworld’s withriceasastaple, of freshvegetables,fruitsand , usinggenerousamounts offers adietwithverylittle with flavour, thiscuisinealso complexity. Whilebursting on itsowninuniquenessand cuisine. However, itstands and theversatilityofChinese richness ofIndiancuisine cuisine, thedepthand of flavourVietnamese possesses thebrightness Cambodian. signals thefoodasdistinctly that whenitdoesappear, it reserve thanfishsauceso is usedwithmuchgreater fermented fishpastewhich ingredient is the mostuniqueCambodian just abouteverything. But www.elephantwalk.com area, USA. restaurants intheBoston of TheElephantWalk Monteiro, ExecutiveChef With thankstoNadsade , 3 Joannès to Try this at home this Try up a storm CONTENTS Restaurants 20 18 22 Thanks also Rivière and Nadsa de Monteiro for valuable advice on Cambodian cuisine, and to the many producers listed on pages 8 and 9 for providing photographs. Some great easy recipes to try Some great easy recipes at home. If food is at the heart of a culture, then what better way to get to know Cambodia than by taking a cooking class while you are here? An increasing number of restaurants are serving up delicious Cambodian cuisine, for all budgets.

12 Must-try dishes dishes 12 Must-try When in Rome . . . When in Rome Beautiful books With thanks to International for Friends permission to use some of the photos on pages 10, 11, 13, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 21 and reproduce the recipes on pages 18, 19 and 20. 14 12 16 A selection of dishes that A selection of dishes that captures some of the best of tastes, textures and colours Cambodian cuisine. A quick guide to what and where Cambodians are eating, story as well as a heart-warming about recovered seeds. A quick guide to the handful of English-language books about Cambodian cuisine - all playing their part in reviving and preserving this wonderful part of culture. Cambodia’s Fresh, fragrant, flavour Fresh, More than just More than just Reviving Cambodian cuisine Reviving Cambodian take-away 8 6 4 10 Cambodian markets teem with mounds of colourful fruits, vegetables and herbs. Here’s a quick guide. Joannès Rivière, star , Joannès Rivière, star chef, author of a Cambodian cookbook and a self-confessed about fan of the cuisine, talks more than just fish amok. Two chefs are working together Two to breathe life into Cambodian cuisine. As decades-old peppercorn plantations are slowly brought back to life, these and other products make beautiful gifts to take back home. 4 T right. should betakeninitsown that Cambodiancuisine cuisine, Joannèsisadamant Provencal andItalian parallels betweenSpanish, are similarities,likethe While concedingthatthere and Vietnamesecuisines. apoorercousintoThai it’s Cambodian cuisineisthat travellers haveabout a Cambodian cookbook. Rivière, starchef, fan ofthecuisineandauthor aself-confessed andthenuances outsaysJoannès seeking amok, are worth There’s more toCambodian cuisinethanthefamous dish,fi sh he biggestmisconception MORE Cambodian snacks than justfishamok one ofSiemReap’s, as executivechefatMeric, Since then,hehasworked Siem Reap. Cambodian youth,basedin school fordisadvantaged with SalaBai,ahospitality in 2003asatrainingchef first cametoCambodia Joannès shouldknow. He interesting.” but itistasty, healthyand simple toprepareandcook “Cambodian cuisineis them. much asithasreceivedfrom neighbours probablyas cuisine hasgivenits for centuriessoCambodian occupied thewholearea the same.TheKhmerempire ingredients aremoreorless climate andsoilsthe and Vietnamsharesimilar Cambodia “, ” “ and greens,fellinlove. vegetables tofamiliarmeats offer, fromexoticfruitsand Cambodian marketshadto great varietyofingredients Then hediscoveredthe useful forthestudents.” believed itwouldnotbe Cambodian foodasI that westopteaching in asoup.Ievensuggested ingredients justendedup it seemedtomethatall He remembers,“At first man wasn’t impressed. Siem Reap andtheFrench touristy restaurantsin with localfoodwerein cuisine. Hisfirstencounters immediate converttothe Joannès wasn’t an of Cambodiancuisinetoday.” another book,“aboutthestate and iscurrentlyworkingon English versionisduesoon) on Cambodiancuisine(an first andonlyFrench book Joannès hasalsopennedthe Tasting Menu. its highlyacclaimedKhmer restaurants, andcreated and Cambodia’s, finest food ishowprimary spicy) arebalanced but inthegroupon not inasingledish tastes (salty, sweet, about Cambodian … thebestthing sour, bitterand the table. 5 (Java in ) krosang unloah and noni tree, for ) are all extremely Deum Kor market, Deum Kor ngno Vegetables and fruits Vegetables These are divided into 3 types. Some are cultivated on a small scale around the house (lemongrass, galangal, camphored galangal and , and different types of gourds, and fruits). Some are taken from the wild and planted near the house, like feronilla, a fruit used for many things), water lily or the fruits or leaves. Some are foraged from the wild including all kinds of sour leaves, plants used as crudités, ( and wild roots (eight types of wild yam are eaten in Cambodia) prahok important ingredients in Khmer food. . sh, Than Just Fish Amok Fish Just Than sh fi crabs at the market MORE MORE Joannès Rivière on fi Joannès Rivière prahok and different categories of vegetables water Fresh and (Food The FAO Agriculture Organisation) estimates that there are over 500 varieties of fresh water fish of commercial interest in Cambodia. 70% of the protein consumed in Cambodia comes from and the Sap Lake the Tonle This includes fish, . but also shrimps, crabs, snails, , snakes, etc. There are 10 times more fish per cubic than in kilometre in the Lake the Atlantic Ocean. As Europeans created cheese in order to preserve milk, Cambodians have done the same with fresh water fish. , , and fish pastes (including never the (pounded bok He started to learn the to learn He started and met language too invited him to people who or to great but their houses unknown restaurants. become “To Joannès says, of Cambodian a supporter cuisine I had to discover Cambodian culture and language.” is one of the best Variety things about Cambodian off a cuisine, he says, rattling list of dishes and delicacies heard that few travellers have is of and must try and he passionate about promoting local produce. He says, ones you expect.” dishes) are an unexplored dishes) are an unexplored better part that deserve to be known: pounded sesame, pounded , pounded pea eggplant, pounded long and so on. are also very important and offer a wide range of flavours and textures. “But the best thing about Cambodian food is how sweet, primary tastes (salty, bitter and spicy) are sour, balanced not in a single dish but in the group on the table.” those looking to For experience authentic Cambodian cuisine, Joannes has this advice – “Get away from tourist spots.” locals to He suggests, “Ask recommend a good place to eat, ask waitresses what is the speciality in their restaurants, and be adventurous. Cambodians have good standards of hygiene and local restaurants prepare and food fresh each day. According to my personal experience, the places that make you sick are 6 varieties of Cambodia boastsseveral and aspartofameal. snacks throughouttheday is richinfruits,eatenas The typicalCambodiandiet FRUITS ann vendors serveupcalled thatroadside delicious arethegrilled western countries.Equally and notoftenavailablein mowan The finger-sized juice? Here’s aquickguidetothingsyou shouldlookoutfor. some freshly bought(andthoroughly washed!) fruitora aromatic fruits, vegetables andherbs. bettersnackthan What Cambodian markets and teemwithmoundsofcolourful or FRESH jeyk jian isparticularlysweet bananas . chek pong , fragrantandfullofflavour . jeyk quite delicious. but thepale,creamyfleshis enjoys thesmellofdurian, sought after. Noteveryone southern coast)isparticularly (onCambodia’s Cambodians. Durianfrom is extremelypopularwith with ahard,spikyexterior rian there isalways For themoreadventurous, than varietiesgrowninother famous. Larger andfleshier as (sometimes referredto Cambodian ) .Thislargegreenfruit Deum Kor market,PhnomPenh ) isjustifiably mien

( thu Mangoes and tastethedifference. when youareatthemarket Cambodian varietiesof own protectiveskin.Askfor as theyareencasedintheir a perfect,hygienicsnack seeds. flesh speckledwithtinyblack spiky, pinkskinandwhite are likelytoencounter. Ithas strangest lookingfruityou neak Dragon fruit – mangoandstickyrice. most famousdesserts used inoneofCambodia’s all overCambodiaandare Like bananas, better-known . in textureandcolourtothe refreshing fleshthatissimilar and awonderfullysweet fruit hasahardbrownskin countries, thischerry-sized ) isprobablythe ( svay mien ( sror ka ) aregrown makes mien

7

bon , wild betle Tror Peang Tror

Tror Koun Tror Sloek Ampil Tror Large Tror Ji Sang Horm Pro Lit Pro slirk sblu Kha Nhai Ma Rech pkar kachhay (chive flower) Ma Tes Ji Ang Kam ), herbs and other plants Young Young Here are some of the more unusual vegetables ( lie that are commonly grown and eaten in Cambodia Banana flower Chek Yaung Tror Chili Mint Morning glory Sweet basil leaf lily Water Pepper Pepper Winter melon Winter in Cambodia have a pinch in Cambodia have a or sliver of one of these herbs, or leaves. , naem chee is (or A selection of Camdodian greens and herbs including morning glory A selection of Camdodian greens ma-om , fragrant and full of flavour of full and fragrant , ) is called saw-leaf. ) is called saw-leaf. chee bon la referred to as the rice paddy herb, Many of the dishes enjoyed are based almost wholly on a range of herbs including perilla, basil, heartleaf, and . some herbs, it is hard For to find a direct English translation – barang VEGETABLES VEGETABLES AND HERBS crisp vegetables Fresh, such as banana blossom, long , and accompany many dishes for texture. Garnishes of different varieties of mint and basil also add another layer of flavour. Basil, mint and coriander are popular too as fragrant decoration. Herbs feature prominently in most Cambodian dishes and are bought fresh or harvested from home gardens on a daily basis. As with other countries in South East Asia, Cambodia has a large number of native plants or herbs which are used to flavour the food. Some dishes, like Khmer spring rolls, known as FRESH Lamot

lamot (sapodilla) Tiep Barang Tiep Ou Loeuk Krouch Pursat are also widely are also widely Sror Ka Neak Sror Ka Ma Naos Daung Ple Teuk Doh Kau Ple Teuk Knor Tiep ) that are Chek Mien La Hong La Svay Thu Rian plaicher Papaya melon Water Banana Coconut Custard Dragon fruit Durian Longan Milk fruit Oranges (from ) Glossary of fruits ( commonly grown in Cambodia Sapodilla or Chhiku Fruit juices Fruit juices coconut Roadside available. cut open a vendors will coconut newly-harvested cane for you and squeezed for juice is freshly see will You each customer. sugar Cambodians sipping plastic cane juice from little their bags as they go about daily life. 8 home. Theyalsohave theirown, uniqueCambodian storiestotell. to life, theseandother products make totake beautifulgifts back peppercornAs decades-old plantationsare slowly brought back one ofthebestinworld. pepper isagainconsidered quantities, therareKampot Produced inverysmall again plantingpepper. export boom,farmersare Cambodia’s firstpepper a hundredyearsafter through neglect.Almost completely destroyed plantations werealmost famedpepper Kampot’s period from1975to1979, During theKhmerRouge restaurants. of choiceforfineParisian a yearandwasthepepper tonnes ofKampot Pepper was exportingabout8,000 the early1900s,Cambodia one oftheworld’sfinest.In long beenacknowledgedas pepper, inparticular, has Cambodia andKampot distinguished historyin Pepper hasalongand PepperKampot Cambodian Kampot blackpepper TAKE-AWAY properties. believed tohaveaphrodisiac pepper isextremelyrareand digested bybirds!Thiswhite pepper thathasbeen Bird pepperisfullymature a redtint. few daysandturnblackwith peppercorns aredriedfora a redcolouronthevine.The is fullymatureandtakeson It isharvestedwhenthefruit rare andhighlysoughtafter. Red pepperisverypungent, Cambodia. see thisinmarketsaround it isconsumedfresh.You will fruit ofthepeppervineand Green pepperistheyoung milder flavour. the blackhusk.Ithasa soaked inwatertodissolve pepper thathasbeen White pepperisfullymature peppercorns turnblack. the sunforafewdays, yellow. Afterdryingunder reaches maturityandturns harvested whenthefruit be thebestknown.It’s Black peppertendsto produced. red andbirdpepperisalso white peppercorn,green In additiontoblackand – withapungenttaste. aroma –strong, butdelicate said tohaveaverydistinct rich soil,Kampot pepperis with itsironandmanganese coastal provinceofKampot, Grown inthesouthern www.kampotpepper.biz www.farmlink-cambodia.com For moreinformation:

in PhnomPenh. Street 63(corner322) office andstoreat206Eo They alsohavetheirown Siem Reap’s HoteldelaPaix. Royal inPhnomPenh and include Raffles HotelLe Pepper. is availablefrom coastal province,Koh Keh, Pepper growninanother guesthouses andrestaurants. In Kampot &Kep: numerous Restaurant Manguier Guesthouse& Hotel &Restaurant, Le In Sihanoukville:BlueFrog Gift Shop,ScubaNation Centre Café1&2,Jayana Cooking School,Garden In PhnomPenh: Cambodian bags. pepper issoldinbeautifulgift Farmlink-Cambodia by farmerssupported produced andharvested stock ‘Kampot Pepper’ restaurants acrossCambodia A rangeofshopsand Where tobuyKampot Pepper Arangeofoutlets green pepperonthevine Kurata . The

9 organic brown rice sell their Natural and New Rain New Rain TAKE-AWAY Organics Agri-products products in supermarkets. Natural Agri-products also has their own shop at #689B, Krom Boulevard Kampuchea in Phnom Penh. www.cedac.org Where to buy Cambodian rice including organic rice and brown rice A range of companies including available from Senteurs d’Angkor Rice of national and A number organisations international with farmers are working grow better to help them rice, improve varieties of in some cases, yields and, organic produce and market rice. Cambodian rice, Premium and organic rice, brown rice wild rice are now available main in supermarkets in the cities. New and Cambodian Cambodian produce Confirel Rain Organics Rain sugar palm products, like juice, and sugar, and these are available in most of the supermarkets in major towns and cities Where to buy Cambodian sugar palm products A range of companies including This palm sugar provides a sweet treat for children (‘palm lollies’) and is used as an ingredient in many sugar types of dishes. Palm is also processed into sugar, juice, vinegar and wine. Early in the morning, in the morning, Early the sugar collectors climb and make cuts in palm trees buds. A container the flower the nectar below catches drips from these that slowly hours later, cuts. A few the filled collectors harvest cloudy containers. The light, large sap is then poured into a woks and boiled until sticky sugar remains.

Where to buy Cambodian Where to buy Cambodian spices Senteurs d’Angkor process and sell a range all of Cambodian spices, beautifully presented in sugar packaging made from sell palm leaves. They also Cambodian nuts, , coconut oil, lotus flowers, honey and . www.senteursdangkor.com The Senteurs d’Angkor boutique is opposite the old market in Siem Reap and you will also find their products in the duty free stores at the airport. Rice fields dotted with sugar palm trees are a common sight in rural Cambodia. Indeed the country has the most sugar palms per hectare in South East Asia. Sugar Palm Spices pepper, Kampot Apart from produces a wide Cambodia including range of spices mace, , ginger, chillies and turmeric, dried star anise. 1010 restaurant, International’s Cambodian Since then,Friends streets andstartanewlife. organisation) toleavethe NGO (non-government from theinternational persuaded byavolunteer Chhong hadjustbeen Friends -TheRestaurant. and gettingreadytosetup hospitality traininginstructors 2000, Gustavwasteaching Chhong firstmetinJanuary When GustavAuerandSok advocates forreviving Both arenowstrong chef andtrainer. married andbecomehead Restaurant andChhonghas cookbook forFriends -the Gustav haspublisheda opened tocriticalacclaim, – Cambodian food. are working togethertobreathe lifeintotheircommon passion Friends’ theCambodian armofFriends-International, inKhmer), Phnom Penh. (‘Best now chefsfrom Samlanh And thesetwo Mith wasOne borninAustriaandtheotherusedtoroam thestreets of Reviving Cambodian Romdeng , has glutamate, afoodadditive) Knorr, MSG(monosodium foreigners’ tastes,solotsof is verymuchadaptedto most restaurants,thefood constraints. Theduosay“In duetotimeandcost more andprocessed In addition,peopleareusing from mothertodaughter. but passedonfrommemory recipes arenotwrittendown being lost.Gustavsaysmost aging andtheirknowledgeis Cambodian cuisinewellare the peoplewhoknow most importantly, because number offactorsbut, an uphillclimbduetoa However, thishasbeen Cambodian cuisine. and promotingauthentic CUISINE

gathered, theirrevivalof Armed withtherecipesthey countryside.” homes, especiallyinthe is stillinCambodian real Cambodianfood “the bestplacetofind Samlanh’s staff. Theysay family membersofMith vendors andfriends to villagers,streetfood over thecountry, speaking at Romdeng tookthemall authentic recipestoserve The chefs’searchfor garden.” is growingintheirsmall pond closebyandwhatever from theforest,fish surroundings, likewildherbs what isavailablefromtheir what theycanaffordand is verymuchbasedon are stillpoorandtheirdiet that manyCambodians important toacknowledge also They add,“It’s bottled saucesareused.” and manyofthesehorrible lotus seeds 11 ampil (tamarind) romdeng (galangal) CUISINE www.friends-international.org The cooks explain, “WithThe cooks want to the book, we aware of the make people Cambodian problems that how youth are facing, them with is helping Friends training and at hospitality the same time bring back food nearly-lost Cambodia’s culture.” grilled fish and baby eggplant (aubergine) dip Cambodian Cambodian and unique. Reviving Cambodian Reviving cooking is not cooking difficult. It’sdifficult. very fast, fresh, fragrant fast, fresh, “ “ ” The two banned MSG from their restaurant. Chhong reasons, “It destroys the flavour of the food. Now the students can eat without MSG and if they eat out, they can taste the difference.” Both chefs are keen to reach as wide an audience as they possible. Most recently, Spiders co-authored “From Lilies” one of the to Water very few English-language Cambodian cookbooks, and they are hoping tourists attracted to Cambodia by the splendours of Angkor will realise the country Wat also holds culinary treasures. All the recipes available in the cookbook are served in newly located to Romdeng, a larger venue in the heart of Phnom Penh. Cambodian cuisine started Cambodian who Gustav, at Romdeng. keeping a cuisine believes in by updating alive and fresh the recipes, and adapting Chhong to encouraged be creative. explore and 12 these withfriends. forget thatCambodians tendtoorder several dishesandshare best tastes, andcolours textures ofCambodian cuisine. Don’t Cambodia, here’s ofdishesthatcaptures aselection someofthe youWhether have weeks daysortwo two tospendin FISH DISHES Fish amok served withfreshvegetables cooked withprahokand Teuk kroeung. that hasbeencookedwith mixed vegetablesandfish traditional khmersoupof Samlor korko leaf parcels. Beautifully servedinbanana gno leafandpalmsugar. lemongrass, krachai,slok turmeric, galangal, herbs andspicesincluding with awonderfularrayof Fish issteamedincoconut texture. with amousse-like quintessential Khmerdish 12 Must-trydishes The A Fish until thedishisfinished. cooking pans-andserved dishesarepresentedin day’s restaurants whereallthe markets andsmallroadside This isafavouritedishat over Khmerricenoodles. (coconut fishcurry)ladled Khmer Num pachoksamlor what toorderwhenyou’re in arestaurant,askifthey 23 and24foraselection Penh andSiemReap that specialise inCambodian dishes. Pleaseseepages make oneofthesegreat of restaurantsinPhnom If you’re notsureabout Greenprohor cuisine. amoktrey(fishamok) Deum Kor market tartness ofgreenmango. of blackpepperandthe sweetness ofsugar, theheat is acontrastbetweenthe and thefinaltaste–which vegetables, thesimplicity Cambodian. Thefish,the Everything inthisdishis sugar andgreenmango. Braised fishwithpalm Khor treysweykchey with kroeung nornoung, taroandcorn ngoib leaf, pumpkin, fish withmelon,basleaf, Samlor prohor menus inthecountry. typically seenonwedding shrimps, salad withsun-dried mango andsmokedfish mui treichaal Noam sweikchaichia num pachoksamlorKhmer Green Smoked

1313 prahok ang noam gro aui chukh chia mui sat moan Must-try dishes dishes Must-try

12 a or CHICKEN DISHES Noam gro aui chukh chia mui sat moan wonderful salad made with steamed chicken, young lotus roots and tossed with a selection of herbs, peanuts and a tangy dressing Chhar kdao stir fried with lemon spicy grass, leaf, basil leaves and galangal root Nhoam troryong chek Banana flower salad with chicken and herbs A Grilled samlor machou kroeung Samlor mah chu Samlor mah slack knang. kroeung soup, delicious sour-tasting knang slack beef, made with and leaves. (Khmer bacon) which has been marinated with prahok, lemongrass, tamarind and other herbs and Prahok ang BEEF AND PORK BEEF AND DISHES Vegetarian? almost all the restaurants listed on pages 22 and 23 will offer some vegetarian, If you’re restaurants are popular with vegetarians Amok and K’nnay vegetarian options. In Phnom Penh, amok looking for Khmer food, and the latter also offers vegan dishes. Amok does a great your preferences, you may want to check offers a range of . Depending on and K’nnay whether the restaurant adds to your vegetarian dish. 14 day. and mealsatalltimesofthe having street-side snacks will stillseeCambodians bigger townsandcities,you is increasinglyapparentin with regularworkinghours Although anofficeculture anise, cloves,, such ascardamom,star using aromaticingredients art ofblendingspicepaste Cambodians havelearntthe From India,bywayofJava, SPICES plastic bags, onfresh fruit. orsnacking Cambodians enjoying bowls ofsoup, juice drinking from little snack anddrinkvendors. From you willsee dawntodusk, numerous foodstallsinmarkets, street-side restaurants and As you travel around Cambodia, you’ll bestruckby the When in bay sachchrouk Rome . kroeung dishes. Thereare3typesof for countlessCambodian This isthebaseflavour kroeung and complexpastecalled spices tomakeadistinctive leaves areaddedtothese coriander andkaffirlime galangal, ,, such aslemongrass, Other localingredients turmeric. nutmeg, gingerand main fishdishandrice. include asoup,salad, the sametimeandusually These areallservedat family orfriends. a numberofdisheswith seriously andtypicallyshare their lunchesanddinners a tiffin,Cambodianstake or inrestaurantsfrom Whether eatenathome coconut juice,forexample. fruit juices–sugarcaneor Cambodians enjoyfresh Throughout theday, (Khmer noodles). plate of followed byamid-morning fried pork( city dwellers,somericewith at 7ambeforeworkor, for bowl of The daymightstartwitha

paste: (pron.Grew-ung). bor num baanchok bay sachchrouk ()

) pong ang freshly grilledbananas( seasoned withherbs,some cakes madefromriceflour include Afternoon snacksmight Individual stuffing, soupsandstir-fries. commonly usedtomake to greenred.Theseare colours rangingfromyellow distinguishes eachpastewith Colour herbs likekaffirlimeleaves. Royal ground rice. kroeung ingredients inwiththe may callforblendingextra for uniquedishes,which ), sweetdonuts( ) orsomefruit. kroeung kroeung num krouk suchasroasted kroeung Cambodian desserts includes

, savoury isused num chek 15 lotus seeds Rome . . . . Rome www.irri.org different soils, of irrigation different soils, of irrigation and drainage, of plant cultivation and breeding, lost. pest management was miraculously, However, able Cambodia has been ‘lost’to recover some of the indigenous varieties. Before reign the ’s of destruction began, 765 duplicate samples were sent to the International Rice Institute (IRRI), Research the world’s largest rice Banos in the treasury in Los Philippines. These seeds have since been returned to Cambodia and the ‘new’ traditional varieties are once again growing in Cambodian fields – as they have for centuries. When in in When , literally means RICE part Rice is such an integral that of the Cambodian diet eating, the Khmer phrase for nyam bai with ‘eat rice’. Rice is served every and Cambodian from desserts are often made rice. fresh fruits and sticky Ninety percent of farmland in the country is devoted to rice and about 85% of the people are rice farmers. During the Khmer Rouge period, hundreds of rice varieties were lost. Fields were instead planted with millions of antipersonnel nothing to eat, mines. With starving people ate the rice seed stocks in the national rice gene bank. Almost all the knowledge of traditional rice varieties and their traits, of the num krouk ), crunchy pout insects and other savoury snacks If you travel by road and between Phnom Penh look out for the Siem Reap, at Skuon. The spider-sellers palm-sized are tarantulas deep-fried . in garlic and lotus seeds or crispy fried tarantulas. In the early evening: snacks. ‘Promenade’ some boiled or Perhaps grilled corn ( 1616 initiative. which isanotherFriends’ at therestaurant‘Romdeng’, enjoy manyoftheserecipes Friends’ projects.You can proceeds gotowards easy tofollowandall Chhong, therecipesare Gustav AuerandSok International. Written by also oftheworkFriends Cambodian cuisinebut the wonderfulworldof not onlyaglimpseinto photographed bookgives this gorgeously government organisation, international non- International, an Published byFriends International Sok Chhong, Friends and Gustav Auer Lilies From SpiderstoWater Restaurants (PhnomPenh) Friends andRomdeng Monument BookShop, Available inCambodiaat: Cooking withFriends preserving this wonderful part ofCambodia’s part thiswonderful preserving culture. inreviving and Cambodian cuisine-allplayingtheirpart There are now ahandfulofEnglish-language booksabout Beautiful

– CreativeCambodian BOOKS

Joannès Rivière,SalaBai Apprentis deSalaBaï Cambodge avecles La Cuisinedu www.agirpourlecambodge.org created SalaBai. Pour Le Cambodge,which through theNGOAgir Siem Reap), des Artset Tigre deP KoKoon, attherestaurantsLe Senteurs d’Angkor& Sala Bai,intheshops Available inCambodiaat: proceeds gotoSalaBai. of Cambodiancuisineand good sampleofthevariety book neverthelessgivesa replicated inEurope.The in awaythatcanbeeasily they aredeliberatelywritten are not100%authenticas Joannès saystherecipes slated forreleasenextwinter. School, theEnglishversionis chef atSalaBaiHospitality in SiemReap andtraining chef atHotelDeLa Paix Rivière, formerexecutive French. Written byJoannès Cambodian recipebookin This isthefirstandonly apier andL’Escale or bought online Sens (allin Katherine Neustadt Longteine deMonteiroand Cookbook The ElephantWalk www.elephantwalk.com Available online: Cambodian dishes. ingredients thatmakeup Walk, andtheexotic restaurant, TheElephant dishes popularatherBoston together withrecipesof as herremarkablelifestory, history ofthecuisineaswell Monteiro, andchartsthe restaurateur, Longteine de Boston-based Cambodian by This bookisco-authored 17 Kaffir limes Kaffir BOOKS Kaffir lime leaves ground lime leaves are Kaffir like into pastes, used bay leaves to flavor a broth or sliced into thin threads as a garnish. Galangal This cream-coloured root resembles ginger but has a more delicate, less Galangal biting flavour. is commonly used peeled and pounded into pastes. A single slice of galangal can also be used to give a nice roasted flavour to a dish. Tamarind paste is the dark Tamarind pulp from the inside of the flat, beanlike pods that grow on giant tamarind trees. an Arabic word for From ‘Indian date’, tamarind was introduced to the region by Indian traders. Cambodians use tamarind to darken soups and curry sauces and slightly to give them a sour, sweet taste. With thanks to Nadsa de Monteiro, Executive Chef of The Elephant Walk restaurants in the Boston area, USA. www.elephantwalk.com Beautiful Beautiful Five main Cambodian ingredients Cambodian main Five Prahok A grey paste of preserved fish, this is probably the in all most distinctive flavour Cambodian cooking and certainly the most unusual The odour for Westerners. is reminiscent of over-ripe Camembert and you may ask why anyone would want to eat it. The answer lies in something beyond flavour - prahok adds volume and body to a dish. A very small amount goes a long way and there is really no substitute for prahok. Lemongrass One of the signature flavours of Cambodian cuisine, this plant provides a distinctively balmy lemon flavour that is reminiscent of its even more aromatic relative, citronella. In Cambodia, where it is used so often and thrives so well, you see lemongrass growing in most gardens. resembles Lemongrass woody , slightly dry, and like scallions, it is best when the tops of the leaves are still green. Available online: www.asiafinebooks.com With a foreword by the With His Majesty King Father, King of Cambodia, this beautifully photographed book has a special focus on the Household. of the Royal Throughout, there are historical and cultural references for the dishes. Available in Cambodia at: Grand Hotel Raffles and d’Angkor Siem Reap Phnom Hotel Royal Raffles Penh The Cuisine of Cambodia Nusara Thaitawat Recipes for a selection of for a selection Recipes dishes popular Cambodian are featured. Taste of Angkor Taste for The Mawa I Wayan Group Raffles 1818 500ml warmwater too spicy),seeded 200g driedlargechillies(not (makes about250g) Chilli Paste province, this salad is eaten province, thissaladiseaten shrimp.InKampot sun-dried seafood andespeciallyits which isfamousforits Cambodia’s coastalregion, to eat!Itcomesfrom prepare –andsodelicious This dishissosimpleto Kriam NangKtichDong) Vinaigrette RiceNoodleSaladinCoconutandLime Kampot Cambodian withFriends’. cooking recipes, seetheirbook‘From SpiderstoWater Lilies–creative page.recipes onthispageandonethenext For more great Friends Internationalfortheirpermissiontoreproduce thetwo Chhong and thankstoauthorsGustavAuerand Sok Our TRY ( this athome Nom Pan Chok Tak Trei BaimChiaMuiBongGia

wonderful. verymessy,It’s buttastes all inthecoconutdressing. shrimp andthendippingit some poundedsun-dried rice noodles,spooningover one handandfillingitwith by puttingalettuceleafin into apaste.Inwok,heat water outaspossible.Chop as muchoftheremaining minutes. Drainandsqueeze Soak chilliesinwaterfor5 1 tbspsunfloweroil week ifrefrigerated. lidded glassjar. Keeps for1 Allow tocoolandstoreina minutes oruntilfragrant. medium heatfor2to3 oil, addchilliesandfryon garnish. Place onalargeplateand except garnishestogether. Gently mixallingredients Method shrimp, forgarnish. shallots, peanutsanddried Sliced redchillies,Asian mint andcoriander herbs, suchasThaibasil, 1 handfulofmixedfresh and cutintojuliennestrips 4 smallcucumbers,peeled 1 handfulofbeansprouts 2 tsplimejuice sour sauce 125ml Khmersweetand 8 tbspcoconutcream chopped peanuts 4 tbsproastedand 5 minutes soaked inwarmwaterfor 4 tbspdriedshrimp, noodles 800g freshthinrice serves 4 Ingredients 1919

Ingredients this at home home at this serves 4 serves 4 tbsp sunflower oil 4 tbsp sunflower finely 6 garlic cloves, chopped pork, minced 600g lean 2 tbsp palm sugar 1 tbsp fish sauce 8 tbsp sauce 100ml pork or chicken stock to Salt and taste 4 tbsp chopped green 8 medium-sized Japanese eggplant (aubergine) grilled, skinned and cut into 2cm pieces coriander leaves for Fresh garnish When peeling off the blackened skin of the eggplant (aubergine), do not use water or the eggplant will become soggy and the smoky flavour will disappear. Instead use a knife and rub the skin off gently. Tamarind Paste Tamarind about 250ml) (makes 500g tamarind pods 375ml water Place pods in a bowl and pour to 3 Mix well for 2 water over. minutes so the fruit loosens, then strain. Bring liquid to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes and set aside to cool. 4 to 5 days in a lidded Keeps glass jar if refrigerated. TRY TRY between 4 plates and top with the pork. Serve garnished with coriander and steamed rice on the side. The eggplant (aubergine) develops a lovely smoky flavour when it’s grilled over an open fire or charcoal grill, but you can do it in the oven as well. 4 garlic cloves, halved of half a kaffir lime, Peel chopped 1 tbsp peeled and chopped Cambodian rhizome mortar and pestle, With pound lemongrass into a paste, then add remaining ingredients and pound until well combined. This paste will keep refrigerated for 1 day only. (Cha Droap Chia Mui Sat Chruch) (Cha Droap

Lemongrass Paste about 250g) (makes 200g young lemongrass stalks (about 15 pieces), sliced 1 tbsp peeled and chopped galangal 2 tbsp peeled and chopped fresh turmeric 4 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced Grilled Eggplant (aubergine) Topped with Pork and with Pork Topped (aubergine) Grilled Eggplant Coriander Method Heat oil and stir fry garlic until fragrant. Add pork and fry for about 5 minutes or until cooked. Add palm sauces, fish and oyster sugar, and stock, salt and pepper, cook for another minute. Stir in green onions. Divide the eggplant (aubergine) 20 start withashoppingtripto different but,typically, you Each cookingclassis architecture. and Cambodiantraditional and beautifulFrench colonial with alaidbackatmosphere a charmingprovincialtown seas; andinBattambang, beaches andbalmyblue with itsbeautifulwhitesand Angkor; inSihanoukville gateway tothetemplesof Phnom Penh; inSiemReap, and towns:inthecapital Cambodia’s leadingcities cooking classinfourof You cannowenjoya you are here? get toknowCambodia classwhile thanby acooking taking ofaculture, thenwhatbetter way foodisattheheart If to COOKING palm sugar up astorm see iftheseareoffered. cuisine. Phoneaheadand in vegetarianCambodian will alsoprovideclasses day ahead.Someschools classes –sometimesonlya is neededforallcooking An advancereservation . or full-day ahalf-day and whetherit’s course, thesizeofgroup where you’re takingthe per person,dependingon Prices rangefrom$8-$60 labour. of eating‘thefruits’your by theall-importantbusiness the cookingschool,followed and cookingsessionbackat the actualfoodpreparation cooking. Thisisfollowedby select producefortheday’s willhelpyou guide-chef the localmarketwhereyour Cambodian misenplace www.cambodia-cooking-class.com [email protected] Phone: 012524801 #67, Street240 Cambodia CookingClass www.boddhitree.com [email protected] 016865445 Phone: 012565509 Street244 #70E, (Asian CulinaryArtsSchool) Boddhi Tree HotelandRestaurant PHNOM PENH [email protected] 011389772 Phone: 092738615 #335, EkareachStreet Traditional KhmerCookeryClasses SIHANOUKVILLE www.cambodiauncovered.com [email protected] Frances 012626353 Phone: Souen012507097, (Khmer CookingLessons) Cambodia Uncovered grinding your own spices grinding yourownspices 21 Ingredients up a storm a up serves 4 500ml coconut cream 2 tbsp chilli paste 8 tbsp lemongrass paste 1 tsp 2 tbsp fish sauce 600g fish fillets, cut into strips, 1cm wide 1 tbsp palm sugar 1 tsp ½ tsp star anise ½ tsp powdered coriander seed 2L fish or stock 600g pumpkin, cut into strips1cm wide, blanched Salt to taste coriander for garnish Fresh COOKING COOKING Fish, Pumpkin Curry and Coconut Lapov Nang Dong Trei Samloh Kari Method In a pot, reduce 250ml of the coconut cream by half. Add chilli, lemongrass, shrimp paste and fish sauce, and fry until fragrant. Add fish and mix well. Add curry powder, palm sugar, star anise, coriander seed stock and pumpkin powder, and simmer for about 3 to 4 minutes or until fish is cooked. Season with salt. pumpkin and fish Remove from sauce. Blend sauce until smooth, pour back into pan and add remaining coconut cream. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes more. Gently add back fish and pumpkin. Garnish with coriander. grating coconut The Smokin’ Pot Restaurant #229, Group 8, 20 Usaphea Village Phone: 012 821 400 Tigre de Papier Tigre Street Pub Phone: 063 760 930 012 265 811 BATTAMBANG Sugar Palm Restaurant Street Taphul Phone: 012 818143 [email protected] The River Garden # 113, Mondul 3 Phone: 063 963 400 092 883 293 [email protected] www.therivergarden.info Shinta Mani Hotel Mondul 2 Village Phone: 063 761 996-8 [email protected] www.shintamani.com SIEM REAP SIEM Hospitality and Paul Dubrule School Tourism No. 6 National Road and Sunday closed on Saturday 963 672-3 Phone: 063 [email protected] www.ecolepauldubrule.org 22 budgets. restaurants updelicious Cambodian cuisine, serving forall Eating out. $$ www.malisrestaurant.com Phone: 023221022 #136, NorodomBlvd $$$ Phnom Penh Restaurants in Phone: 023222522 #2C, Street278(offstreet57) restaurant. Meng fromnearbyMalis Restaurant runbychefLuu Anise Hotel&Restaurant Phone: 012912319 # 2,Street278,PhnomPenh from tofu. Also hasvegetarianamokmade Khmer dishesincludingamok. Phnom Penh, awide rangeof Popular withforeigners livingin Amok Restaurant&Café no MSG. cuisine ismodernKhmer, with with terracottafloortiles.The water channelsanddecorated a courtyardsetaroundnarrow Modern Khmerrestaurantwith Malis Restaurant RESTAURANTS

fish atthemarket There are anincreasing number of star anise serving Cambodianfood Phone: 023212025 #319, SisowatQuay Khmer foodandgoodviews. Riverfront restaurantoffering Pon LocRestaurant www.business.nyemo.com Phone: 023213160 #14, Street310,PhnomPenh garden setting. programmes. Greatfoodina Nyemo’s vocationaltraining vulnerable womenwhoattend restaurant areusedtosupport Nyemo. Allprofitsfromthe Restaurant runbylocalNGO Le Ritz 012887320 Phone: 023363050 # 9,Street57 Khmer SurinRestaurant Phone: 023225 Sen Park SuramaritBlvd,offHun 25K, vegetarian andvegandishes. in blackandwhite,serving Khmer restaurantdeckedout K’NYAY Phone: 023220953 #67, Street240 class. cuisine. Alsorunsacooking specialising inauthenticKhmer Dutch-run restaurant Frizz Café 012811565 Phone :023427209 Sisowath, Port dePhnomPenh dishes. provides manytraditionalKhmer Tonle SapRiver, thisrestaurant Boasting thebestviewsof Bopha PhnomPenh rolling ricepaper presented. Cambodian food,elegantly restaurant serveupauthentic Reap branchesofSugarPalm Both thePhnomPenh andSiem Sugar PalmRestaurant Phone: 092219565 #74, Street174 place totryprahok. tarantulas asastarter. Good flavour, especiallythecrispy appropriately freshanddaring in Khmercuisine.Food hasan school/restaurant specialises Friends, thisnon-profittraining Run bythesameNGOas Romdeng 012560346 Phone: 012732555 area, thisispopularwithlocals. Near thecentralpostoffice Lucky Bright Phone: 012774287 #8B, Street294 Phone: 012200426 #184, Street63 wooden house. branch issetinatraditional Well-priced food, theStreet294 Boat Noodle1&2 $ 012818143 Phone: 023220956 #19, Street240 look atpages12and13 for somemust-try dishes. If you’re notsureabout what toorder, havea ahnong chhrung(loofahgourd) 23 Airport Road Phone: 063 964 328 012 637 478 Sugar Palm As with the Phnom Penh restaurant, delicious home-style Khmer cuisine with relaxed dining on the balcony. Road Taphul Phone: 012 818 143 $ Arun Restaurant traditional Reasonably-priced Khmer food. #63, Group 2, Slorkram Commune Phone: 063 964 227 012 890 396 Baca Villa Village, Siem #026, Taphul Cambodia Reap, Phone: 063 965 328 012 260 440 www.baca-villa.com Khmer Family Authentic Khmer cuisine made using traditional ingredients. Phsar Chal (old market) Phone: 015 999 909 Khmer Kitchen popular restaurant serving Very fine Khmer cuisine. #203, Phsar Chas (old market) Phone: 063 964 154 012 763 468 L’auberge des Temples des L’auberge Khmer reasonably priced Fine, in charming cuisine served garden setting. Village Angkor Bo Road, Wat Hotel 963 561 Phone: 063 and Sala Bai Hotel Restaurant School In addition to serving up delicious , the restaurant at this school provides a for valuable training opportunity the students. #155 Phoum Tapoul Phone: 063 963 329 www.salabai.com of Elephants Secret chef A Sala Bai-trained Khmer A manages the kitchen here. relaxed garden restaurant. serving Cambodian food Cambodian serving La Noria Meals served in a lovely garden setting. Village, Slorkram Commune Watbo Phone: 063 964 242 d’Angkor L’auberge Elegant hotel restaurant serving fine cuisine in a peaceful garden setting. Angkor Village Hotel Bo Road, Wat Phone: 063 964 044 Cambodian Kitchen Authentic Cambodian cuisine, open very late. Sivatha street Phone: 063 966 678 Champey Phsar Chas (old market) Phone: 063 964 713 012 1947 002 HanumanAllaya Enjoy classical Khmer cuisine in a traditional Khmer verandah setting. #5, Krom 2 Phone: 063 760 582 Wat Bo Road, Siem Reap Bo Road, Wat Phone: 063 965 561 www.angkorvillage.com Bopha Angkor Restaurant serving Good value restaurant traditional Khmer cuisine. Rd) #512, Acharsva St. (East River Phone: 063 964 928 www.bopha-angkor.com Café Indochine Cambodian The best of Royal cuisine, served in the last Khmer traditional wooden house in town. #44, Sivutha Blvd Phone: 012 804 952 012 641 706 www.pavillon-indochine.com Angkor Palm Angkor Cambodian-owned and of the year 2006’. ‘Restaurant also available. Cooking classes (old market) Phsar Chas 761 436 Phone: 063 232 205 012 & Restaurant Apsara Theatre Khmer dinner and dance show every day in a traditional wooden theatre. A unique setting and performance. RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS Amok Restaurant Khmer dishes, Traditional including a ‘tasting’ selection. Phsar Chas (old market) Phone: 063 965 407 012 800 309 $$ Shinta Mani Hotel Khmer dishes from Traditional various provinces. Junction of Oum Khum Street and 14th street Phone: 063 761 998 Restaurant Le Grand (Grand Hotel d’Angkor) Specialising in Royal Cambodian dishes, an ancient cuisine handed down through the centuries by the chefs of the Palace. Royal 1 Vithei Charles De Gaulle Phone : 063 963 888 (ext 1211) www.siemreap.raffles.com Sivutha Blvd Phone: 063 966 000 www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com River Road Phone: 063 963390 www.residencedangkor.com Meric (Hotel De La Paix) Named after the world-class offers Meric Cambodian pepper, Khmer a seasonally-inspired menu showcasing the distinctive by harvests grown and gathered offers local farmers. Meric also tasting a highly seasonal Khmer menu Restaurants in Siem in Restaurants Reap $$$ d’Angkor La Residence offers ‘The Dining Room’ cuisine with traditional Khmer a modern twist. Also features traditional Khmer dance nights. performances on some ‘Cambodia on a Plate’ is part of the broader sustainable tourism project ‘Stay Another Day’ encouraging greater local benefits from tourism. Find out more at: www.stay-another-day.org

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