Overseas SM Adventure Travel Since 1978
Ancient Kingdoms: Thailand, Laos, Cambodia & Vietnam 2017
EXTEND YOUR TRIP
Burma & the Irrawaddy River
Undiscovered Thailand: The River Kwai, Chiang Rai & Chiang Mai
Your Travel Handbook CONTENTS
Travel Documents & Entry Requirements . . . 3 Climate ...... 26
Your Passport ...... 3 Visas Required ...... 3 About Your Destinations ...... 30 Trusted Traveler Programs ...... 4 . . . . . 30 Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents . . . . 5 OAT Trip Leaders: A World of Difference ...... 30 Overseas Taxes & Fees ...... 5 Culture & Points to Know Shopping ...... 35 U .S . Customs Regulations & Shipping Health ...... 6 Charges ...... 36
Is This Adventure Right for You? ...... 6 Steps to Take Before Your Trip ...... 7 Demographics & History ...... 38 No Vaccines Required ...... 7 Staying Healthy on Your Trip ...... 8 Resources ...... 53
Suggested Readings ...... 53 Money Matters ...... 10 Suggested Movies ...... 57 Top Three Tips ...... 10 Useful Websites ...... 59 Local Currency ...... 10 How to Exchange Money ...... 11 ATMs ...... 12 Credit & Debit Cards ...... 12 Tipping Guidelines ...... 13
Preparing for Your Trip ...... 15
Land Only Travelers ...... 15 Optional Tours ...... 15 Optional Tours: Reserve Before You Go . . . . . 16 Communications ...... 16
Packing ...... 18
Your Luggage ...... 19 Clothing Suggestions ...... 20 What to Bring ...... 21 Electricity ...... 24
2 LVC2017 07/13/2017 TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
Your Passport • Must be in good condition
• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.
• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)
• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable
Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport
Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this adventure.
• Main trip only: If you are taking only the main trip, you will require 9 blank passport pages.
• Pre-trip extension to Burma (Myanmar): You will need 2 more pages for a total of 11.
• Post-trip extension in Thailand: You will need 1 more page for a total of 10.
• Both the pre- and post-trip extensions: You will need a total of 12 blank passport pages.
• Stopover in Hong Kong: You will need 1 more page. Add 1 to your total as listed above.
IMPORTANT: Our regional office reports that some travelers on this adventure have been fined by local authorities for not having enough blank pages. At time of writing the fines were roughly $50-$80 and could happen in any and all of the countries on the trip. Please double- check your passport before you leave. The numbers we have given above may seem like a lot, but the goal is for you to have more blank pages than you actually need to complete the trip; this will help you avoid a fine.
Visas Required We’ll be sending you a detailed Visa Packet with instructions, application forms, and fees about 100 days prior to your departure. In the meantime, we’re providing the information below as a guideline on what to expect. This information is for U.S. citizens only. All visas and fees are subject to change.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 3 • Thailand (main trip and optional extension)—No visa needed. For a U.S. citizen, a visa is not required for entry into Thailand on this adventure.
• Vietnam—visa required. Can only be obtained in advance. You must obtain your visa for Vietnam before you leave home; it cannot be obtained on arrival.
• Laos and Cambodia—visas required. We recommend you obtain these in advance. Although these visas may be obtained upon your arrival, we recommend you obtain them in advance. Entry requirements can change at any time; obtaining your visas in advance decreases the likelihood that you will encounter problems at the border and may protect you if entry requirements subsequently change.
• Burma (optional extension)—visa required. Can only be obtained in advance. You must obtain your visa for Burma before you leave home; it cannot be obtained on arrival.
• Hong Kong (optional Stopover)—No visa needed. For U.S. citizens, a visa is not required for stays of up to 90 days.
Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www. pvsinternational.org.
Trusted Traveler Programs Some travelers have found that Trusted Traveler programs can expedite long waits at customs when re entering the U.S. There are currently three programs available: Global Entry, NEXUS, and SENTRI. These three programs also include TSA Pre-Check, which allows you to use a dedicated security line at participating airports, or you can apply solely for TSA Pre-Check.
TIP: Keep in mind that not all airports and airlines participate in these programs. You may want to consider checking with your airport prior to applying to find out if these programs would benefit you.
To apply for a Trusted Traveler program or TSA Pre-Check, typically you will be asked to pay an application fee (varies by program) and schedule a background check and/or an interview. If you are approved, you will be issued a Known Traveler Number (KTN). Your KTN is valid for a set number of years, based on the conditions of the program. Please see the U.S. Customs and Border Protection website for more details on each of these programs: www.cbp.gov/ travel/trusted-traveler-programs. You can also find more information about TSA Pre-Check at www.tsa.gov/precheck.
If you are enrolled in TSA Pre-Check (or a Trusted Traveler program that includes it), you must provide your KTN to the airlines.
4 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.
If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.
Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 5 HEALTH
Is This Adventure Right for You? Please review the information below prior to departing on this adventure. We reserve the right for our Trip Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.
PACING • 6 locations in 19 days with some early mornings
PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Not appropriate for travelers using wheelchairs, walkers, or other mobility aids
• You must be able to walk 3 miles unassisted and participate in 5-7 hours of physical activities each day
• We reserve the right for Trip Leaders to restrict participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their limitations impact the group’s experience
CLIMATE • Tropical, with daytime temperatures reaching 95°F with high levels of humidity, especially between March-May
• Potential for heavy rains between July-October
TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION
• Travel over some bumpy, unpaved roads; climb uneven stairways at ancient ruins; and walk over uneven ground
• Travel primarily via air-conditioned 20-passenger coach (no toilet on board)
• Other modes of transportation include: ox cart; motorized boat on the Mekong, which will require agility to embark; and horse-drawn carriage, elephant, and bamboo raft on trip extensions
• 5 internal flights of about 1 hour each with potential for delays
FLIGHT INFORMATION
• Travel time will be 20-27 hours and will most likely have two connections
6 LVC2017 07/13/2017 ACCOMMODATIONS & FACILITIES • All accommodations feature private baths and Western-style toilet facilities
• Outside of our accommodations, some public restrooms will be limited to Asian-style squat toilets
Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on this adventure, we recommend the following:
• Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636.
• Have a medical checkup with your doctor at least 6 weeks before your trip.
• Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.
• Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less urgent)
No Vaccines Required At the time of writing there were no required vaccines for this trip. The CDC recommends that all travelers be up to date on their routine vaccinations and on basic travel vaccines like Hepatitis A and Typhoid, but these are suggestions only. However, this could change in future so we encourage you to check with the CDC yourself before meeting with your doctor.
Medication Suggestions • An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness
• Prescription pain medication in the unlikely event of an injury in a remote location
• Anti-malaria medication—but only for the extension in Burma. At time of writing, the CDC reported that the risk of malaria was low in Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia, but was moderate in Burma. For this reason, the CDC suggested that travelers to Burma discuss an anti-malarial medication with their doctor. Anti-malarial medication can have strong side effects, so be certain to ask your doctor first.
Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.
• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.
• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 7 We recommend checking this site for medication restrictions by country:http://travel.state. gov/content/passports/english/go/customs.html. (Follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances” for each country; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).
Staying Healthy on Your Trip
Jet Lag Tips • Start your trip well-rested.
• Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.
• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.
• Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.
• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying
• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.
• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.
• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.
• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.
Allergies If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.
Water • Tap water on this adventure is not safe to drink, so we recommend you use only bottled water for drinking and brushing your teeth.
• Avoid drinks with ice or salads/fruits unless you first confirm that the ice is made with safe water or the salad/fruit has been washed in safe water. (Fruit you peel yourself should be fine.)
• Hot drinks made with water are safe if they have been boiled.
• Bottled water is readily available for purchase; just be sure to check that the cap is sealed properly before buying.
8 LVC2017 07/13/2017 • Some previous travelers on this adventure have suggested bringing sachets of powdered electrolytes or powdered sports drink with you. If you feel dehydrated, you can mix them with bottled water, and this should help you rehydrate quickly.
Food • We’ve carefully chosen the restaurants for your group meals. Your Trip Leader can suggest restaurants for meals you take on your own.
• When dining on your own, keep in mind that meats sold by street vendors may not have had proper refrigeration.
• Be cautious with non-pasteurized milk products—they may or may not upset your stomach.
Electricity Supply A constant electricity supply cannot be guaranteed during overnight stays. Travelers dependent on electricity supply for health reasons (as in the case of those with sleep apnea) may want to consider a different OAT adventure.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 9 MONEY MATTERS
Top Three Tips • Carry a mix of different types of payments, such as U.S. dollars, local currency, an ATM card, and a credit card. Traveler’s checks are not accepted in the countries you will be visiting.
• Bring a cash reserve for the extension to Burma. Burma is still much more reliant on cash and ATMs may not be available. We recommend that you bring a cash reserve to cover your basic expenses in Burma.
• U.S. dollars should be in excellent condition (especially in Burma) and dated 2006 or later. Torn, worn, dirty, or taped U.S. bills may not be accepted. In Burma, bills should be pristine (not folded); uncirculated bills are best.
Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.
Burma The basic unit of currency in Burma is the kyat (K). The kyat is divided into 100 pyas. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:
• Banknotes: 50 pyas, K 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 5000, 10,000
• Coins: K 1, 5, 10, 50, 100 Coins are rarely used.
Burma is still a “cash only” society, with little ATM and credit card use. You’ll want a mix of mostly smaller U.S. bills to pay with, plus a few large bills (like $100s) to exchange.
Cambodia The official currency of Cambodia is the riel (KHR), but U.S. dollars are widely accepted. Some businesses will also take Thai baht. Riel banknote denominations are as follows:
• Banknotes: 100, 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000 and higher
• Coins are no longer in general circulation
Previous travelers have suggested that since U.S. dollars are widely accepted in Cambodia, and prices are low, a mix of smaller bills—such as ones, fives, and tens—is more useful than a few large bills. A small amount of local currency is useful for some situations, such as to pay/tip the attendant at a public restroom. If you pay in U.S. dollars, it is fairly common to get your small change back in riels.
10 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Laos The basic unit of currency in Laos is the kip (LAK). Banknote denominations are as follows:
• Banknotes: 1,000 kips, 2,000 kips, 5,000 kips, 10,000 kips, 20,000 kips, 50,000 kips, and 100,000 kips
• Coins: Not commonly in use.
Many businesses will accept U.S. dollars, but some will use Laotian kips. When using or exchanging U.S. dollars know that crisp bills in very good condition are preferred—bills that are worn, torn, or even folded might be rejected. The bills can be the newer “large portrait” style or the older, less colorful style; the condition is more important than the age.
Thailand The basic unit of currency in Thailand is the baht (THB), easily distinguished by color and marked with both Thai and Arabic numerals. The baht is divided into 100 satang. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:
• Banknotes: 20 baht (green), 50 baht (blue), 100 baht (red), and 500 baht (purple), 1000 baht (reddish brown)
• Coins: 25 satang, 50 satang, 1 baht, 2 baht, 5 baht, and 10 baht
Baht are generally preferred. When changing U.S. dollars to baht, you will find that you get a slightly better exchange rate on larger bills.
Vietnam The Vietnamese monetary unit is the New Dong (VND). Banknote and coin denominations are:
• Banknotes: 200d, 500d, 1,000d, 2,000d, 5,000d, 10,000d, 20,000d, 50,000d, 100,000d, 200,000d, and 500,000d
• Coins: 200d, 500d, 1,000d, 2,000d, and 5,000d
Many businesses will accept U.S. dollars. Dongs are usually preferred for small “cash only” transactions (taxis, public restrooms, small tips).
How to Exchange Money You can change money when you arrive at banks, most hotels, and money exchange offices. In some countries you do not even need to exchange money at all—you can use U.S. dollars. For information on what type of currency can be used on this trip, see the “Currency” section.
You can also obtain local currency from an ATM. Using a local ATM on an international network will allow you to withdraw money from your U.S. account in local currency; your bank at home will calculate the conversion rate and charge you in U.S. dollars. Keep in mind, that ATM availability on this trip may be limited in Burma, so you should plan to bring a cash reserve to cover your basic expenses and only use the ATM as a backup or supplement.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 11 Throughout the trip, your Trip Leader can advise you of ATM availability and warn you before you enter areas where there are no ATMs, but will not be able to guarantee which ATM will take your card.
ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.
Many banks charge a fee of $1-$5 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.
Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)
Burma: Do not rely on ATMs alone in Burma. In the past few years, the number of ATMs has increased in Burma, especially in major cities and towns. However, these ATMs have some important limitations:
• They typically accept Visa, MasterCard, China’s Union Pay, and Japan’s JCB only.
• There is usually a fee of about $5 per transaction, and there may be a cap of $200-$250 per withdrawal.
• Connectivity is unreliable. And if the ATM cannot connect to your bank, then it won’t work for you.
Because of these limits, we recommend having a cash reserve to cover your basic expenses in Burma, and only use the ATM as a backup or supplement.
Cambodia: ATMs are only somewhat available in Cambodia. You’ll find them in large cities, but not out in rural areas or at archeological sites.
Laos: ATMs can be hard to find in Laos, and the ones that are available may not take American cards.
Thailand: ATMs are fairly common.
Vietnam: ATMs are fairly common in Vietnam.
Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.
12 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Burma: Credit card use is just starting to gain traction in Burma. Most businesses are still “cash only”. And unfortunately, the places that do take credit cards can be very inconsistent. They may only take one type of card (MasterCard only or Visa only)…they may or may not charge you a fee…the fee may or may not be the same fee as yesterday…you get the idea. Because of these inconsistencies, it is important that you don’t rely on your credit card alone. It makes more sense to bring a card or two as a supplement to your cash reserve. Burma is changing fast, but cash is still king.
Cambodia: Credit cards are somewhat accepted—you’ll be able to use them in nicer hotels, shops, and restaurants but not at small businesses.
Laos: Credit cards are rarely accepted.
Thailand: Credit cards are commonly accepted as payment.
Vietnam: Credit cards are commonly accepted.
Notify Card Providers Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.
You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!
Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. Listed below are our recommendations for the tips that are not included in your tour price:
OAT Trip Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your OAT Trip Leader at the end of your trip, especially if he or she has provided you with individual service. As a guideline, many travelers give $7-$10 per person per day.
Housekeeping staff at hotels: $1-2 per room, per night
Waiters: Tipping waiters is not common practice, but if the service is excellent you may leave about 10% of the bill in appreciation. Your Trip Leader will handle any tips, if appropriate, for included meals.
Taxi drivers: If you are taking a taxi by yourself, keep in mind that tipping is not common practice, but many people simply let the driver keep the change by rounding up the fare to the next whole number.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 13 Please Note: Your tour price includes gratuities on the main trip and optional extensions for local guides, drivers, and luggage porters that may assist you during the scheduled activities on your adventure. All tips are quoted in U.S. dollars; tips can be converted and paid in local currency or in U.S. dollars. Please do not use personal or traveler’s checks for tips.
14 LVC2017 07/13/2017 PREPARING FOR YOUR TRIP
Land Only Travelers If you plan on booking your own international flights or arranging with our air department to arrive/depart on an earlier/later date than standard for your program, airport transfers will NOT be included in your program price, unless otherwise noted. For eligible flights, transfers may be purchased separately, as an optional add-on, and are subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:
• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as OAT travelers who purchased included airfare.
• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.
To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.
Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your adventure by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.
What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.
• Optional tours that are reserved with your Trip Leader can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard and Visa credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)
• To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.
• Your Trip Leader will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount).
07/13/2017 LVC2017 15 Optional Tours: Reserve Before You Go We strongly recommend that you reserve the following optional tours in advance. Unless otherwise noted, the deadline to do so is 45 days prior to your departure. Occasionally, space will be available for booking onsite, but this not guaranteed. Optional tours with OAT can only be purchased with a credit card (Visa or MasterCard) or a debit card with credit card functionality. Because our headquarters are in Boston, charges may appear to be from Boston or might be labeled as “OPT Boston” (depending on your credit card company).
Hot-Air Balloon Ride
Join a hot air balloon ride over Bagan. We’ll rise early to enjoy a bird’s eye view of ancient Bagan and its pagodas at sunrise.
This optional tour is offered during the Burma & the Irrawaddy River trip extension. The cost is $320 per person.
Please note: This balloon flight is only available from October 1 to March 31. The tour must be reserved at least 30 days prior to your departure, and requires that you fill out and return a brief medical form. If you have reserved this tour but have not returned your medical form, please contact our Traveler Support Department.
Communications To ensure you are available during your trip to friends and relatives at home, you will receive two copies of your hotel list, including phone numbers, with your Final Documents. One copy is for you to bring, and one to leave behind with friends or relatives in case they need to contact you during the trip.
Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone can accept one.
Phone Availability in Burma For a long time visitors could not use their own phone in Burma, but international roaming with western cell phones is now possible in some cases; the situation is changing fast, so it is best to check with your own cellular provider. Even if you can use your cell phone to make calls in Burma, you might not be able to use other services (like texting). Network access is often patchy or non-existent in rural areas, but usually works well in towns.
16 LVC2017 07/13/2017 If you can’t use your own phone, then other options are available, such as making calls from your hotel. (Public phones are rare, even in large cities.) Domestic calls costs aren’t extravagant, but overseas calls from Burma are some of the most expensive in the world. Calling “collect” is not available in Burma.
Another option is to try using a local GSM SIM card, which can be purchased in Rangoon in small phone stores. Two cellular companies offer services in Bruma, Ooredoo (based in Qatar) and Telenor (based in Norway). And finally, some roaming services are available with Asian networks, including Thailand (AIS), Singapore (M1 and Singtel), Indonesia (Telkomsel) and Vietnam (Viettel).
Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.
Calling Cards and 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.).
One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.
How to Call Overseas When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.
Burma: +95 Thailand: +66
Cambodia: +855 Vietnam: +84
Laos: +856
07/13/2017 LVC2017 17 PACKING
Luggage Limits
MAIN TRIP LIMITS
Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on per person .
Weight restrictions Checked bag is limited to 44 lbs total . Carry-on is limited to 15 lbs total .
Size Restrictions Standard airline size: checked luggage should not exceed 62 linear inches (length+ width + depth) and carry-on should not exceed 45 linear inches
Luggage Type Duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase . Please do not bring a hard-sided (clamshell) suitcase .
TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS
Burma pre-trip extension: Same as the main trip .
Thailand post-trip extension: One checked bag and one carry-on per person, plus a small additional bag to store excess luggage . Weight restriction varies between 33 lbs and 44 lbs (see note below) . Standard airline size, same as the main trip .
REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS
Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy . Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent . However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question .
Luggage on the post-trip extension: The airline’s official weight limit for checked luggage on our post-trip extension in Thailand is 33 lbs . Our regional staff are sometimes able to negotiate a 44 lbs limit when they reconfirm the flights—but this is not guaranteed and cannot be predicted in advance . Fortunately, our Trip Leaders have a solution if you feel you cannot meet the 33 lbs limit: Bring a small additional bag with you, to store your excess luggage at our hotel or at the airport in Bangkok before departing for your extension . Our regional offices have reported that it costs approximately 75 Baht/ piece/24 hours to store your luggage overnight . Then at the end of the extension, you’ll be able to pick up this bag upon our return to Bangkok . You might be able to board the plane with 44 lbs of luggage after all, but if not, having the extra bag is key .
18 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.
• It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.
• Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.
• The luggage limits above are based on your regional flights, which may be less than your international flights. Even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions.
Your Luggage
Checked Luggage One duffel bag or suitcase. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, built- in wheels, and a heavy duty lockable zipper. Please do not bring a rigid (plastic shell) suitcase.
Carry-on Bag You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during your daily activities.
A Small Additional Bag for the Post-trip Extension Sometimes the post-trip extension in Thailand has a lower luggage limit than the main trip or pre-trip extensions. You can work around this limit by leaving luggage at the hotel or airport in Bangkok before departing for your extension. Our regional offices have reported that it costs approximately 75 Baht/piece/24 hours to store your luggage overnight. At the end of the extension, you’ll return to Bangkok and pick up your luggage. If you would like to take advantage of this “left luggage” service, please bring an additional small bag with a lock.
Locks For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 19 Clothing Suggestions
Functional Tips As you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions, we suggest several layers of clothing. If you like to hand-wash your clothes, look for fabrics that will dry out overnight. You can buy clothing designed especially for travel, with features like wrinkle- resistant fabric or built-in sun protection.
• Footwear: You’ll be on your feet and walking a lot, sometimes over rough and slippery surfaces, so choose your footwear carefully. The soles of your shoes should offer good traction. You can find especially supportive shoes designed for walking. Light hiking boots might be useful for the ankle support, but they are optional.
• December and January travel: If you are traveling during December and January, please bring some warm clothing for Laos; average lows are in the 50-65 degree range.
• Walking sticks: Many past travelers have recommended bringing a folding walking stick, sold in most camping stores. An alternative is a folding ski pole. This is very useful when exploring ruins and trails that have no handrails.
Style Hints and Dress Codes • Dress on our trip is functional and casual. The most formal you might need for a city evening would be a sport jacket with no tie for men, a dress and dressy sandals for women—but this is not necessary on this trip—the decision is yours.
• Wearing shorts is acceptable in most places, except at some religious sites. Specifically, shorts, knee-baring skirts, sleeveless shirts, and tank tops, are often forbidden in temples, so we suggest that you stick to trousers or a long skirt for temple visits. If you forget and wear shorts on a day that includes a temple visit, all is not lost—temples will generally loan cover-ups to visitors who are perceived as “too bare”—but you must cover up to go inside.
• TIP: Both our regional staff and previous travelers on this adventure have recommended that you bring enough long trousers and sleeved shirts for at least 4-6 temple visits.
• It is common practice to remove your shoes inside the temple, so consider a pair that you can get on/off easily and perhaps a couple extra pairs of socks. (Use these to replace the ones that will get extra dirty in the temples. Or you could designate a couple pairs as your “temple socks” and wear them more than once.) In Burma, this practice goes even further—you usually take off both shoes and socks. So for Burma, you might want to bring a few moist towelettes to wash the bottom of your feet “on the go”.
20 LVC2017 07/13/2017 What to Bring We have included suggestions from Trip Leaders and former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.
Recommended Clothing ❑❑Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts in a breathable fabric, like cotton or cotton-blend. Polo shirts are more versatile than T-shirts. For temple visits, you’ll want tops with sleeves (bare shoulders are considered inappropriate for religious sites).
❑❑Trousers and/or jeans: Comfortable and loose fitting. No matter the time of year, you’ll want a few long trousers or jeans for temple visits. See “Style Hints and Dress Codes” for details.
❑❑Walking shorts: A longer cut shows the more sensitivity to the local culture, which tends to be modest. Shorts are viewed as inappropriate for visiting a temple, so we suggest you stick to trousers or a long skirt (below the knee or longer) for temple visits. In a pinch you could wear one of the temple’s cover-ups.
❑❑Shoes and socks: Shoes should be comfortable walking/ running shoes or low-cut hiking shoes, with arch support. A pair of sport sandals with secure ankle strap (such as Tevas) are recommended; flip-flops are not. Because it is common to remove your shoes inside the temples and local homes, bring at least one pair of shoes that you can get on/off easily. You might want a couple extra pairs of socks.
❑❑Light cotton or wool sweater: Because motor coach air conditioning can be cold. ❑❑Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ❑❑Wide-brim sun hat ❑❑Underwear and sleepwear ❑❑Swimsuit
Seasonal Clothing Recommendations For winter (December-February): ❑❑Warm clothing for Laos—days are warm, but nights are cool. The average low temperature is in the range of 50-65 degrees F.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 21 Essential Items ❑❑Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, etc. Our hotels will provide the basics like soap and shampoo, but if you are sensitive to fragrances or new products, you may wish to bring your preferred brands.
❑❑Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses ❑❑Sunglasses, 100% UV block ❑❑Sunscreen, SPF 30 or stronger ❑❑Insect repellent with DEET (30-35% strength) ❑❑Cold-water hand-wash laundry soap such as Woolite, plastic clothespins, sink stopper ❑❑Light folding umbrella ❑❑Packets of pocket-size tissues or small roll of toilet paper ❑❑Moisturizer and sun-blocking lip balm ❑❑Moist towelettes (not individual packets) and/or anti-bacterial “water-free” hand cleanser
❑❑Flashlight or headlamp, extra batteries/bulb ❑❑Electrical converter & plug adapter: see “A Word about Electricity” for details ❑❑Camera gear with extra batteries or battery charger
Medicines & First Aid ❑❑Your own prescription medicines ❑❑Travel first aid kit: Band-Aids, headache and pain relief, laxatives and anti-diarrhea tablets, something for upset stomach. Maybe a cold remedy, moleskin foot pads, antibiotic cream, or allergy medication.
❑❑Sachets of powdered electrolytes or powdered sports drink. If you feel dehydrated, you can mix them with bottled water, and this should help you rehydrate quickly.
❑❑An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness ❑❑Optional: Prescription medicine to prevent malaria ❑❑Optional: A strong prescription pain medication for rare emergency purposes
22 LVC2017 07/13/2017 ❑❑Optional: Motion sickness medicine if you are susceptible
Optional Gear ❑❑Travel alarm or travel watch with alarm ❑❑Lightweight binoculars (if you plan to bird watch) ❑❑Folding walking stick, sold in most camping stores ❑❑Hanging toiletry bag (with hook to hang on doorknob and pockets to organize items) ❑❑Basic sewing kit ❑❑Hair dryer (most hotels will provide one, but not all) ❑❑Washcloth, and small thin towel. Hotels will provide towels, but not washcloths. Having your own small towel can be useful on extremely hot/humid days.
❑❑Handkerchiefs ❑❑Eye drops ❑❑Reading materials, phrase book ❑❑Travel journal/note pad and pens ❑❑Narrow-mouth water bottle. One from home may be easier to drink from than locally purchased water bottles.
❑❑Favorite snacks. Snacks are readily available for purchase locally, but the selection will be different than in the U.S., so this suggestion is only if you have a very specific type of snack you need/want.
❑❑Home address book ❑❑Photos or post cards from home, small gift for home-hosted visit ❑❑Pocket-size calculator for exchange rates ❑❑For asthma sufferers (or other breathing complaints) a face mask may be useful, particularly during rice burning season (Feb).
07/13/2017 LVC2017 23 Electricity When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.
Voltage Electricity in Thailand, Burma, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam is 220 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers—can run off both 110 and 220-240. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)
Plugs The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because there are many different types of plugs in this region, it may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.
Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:
Burma: C, D, F, or G
Cambodia: A (same as the U.S.), C, or G
Laos: A and B (same as the U.S.), C, E, or F
Thailand: A and B (same as the U.S.) or C
24 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Vietnam: A (same as the U.S.), C, or G
Type A Type C Type D Type G
Availability A constant electricity supply cannot be guaranteed during overnight stays. In some places, the electricity may be supplied by a generator, and lighting may not be as bright as you are used to. Travelers dependent on electricity supply (as in the case of those with sleep apnea) should consider a different adventure or ensure their apparatus has back-up battery power.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 25 CLIMATE
Thailand: Thailand’s climate is tropical, high both in temperature and humidity, and dominated by monsoons. April and May are the hottest months of the year, when even the locals are moved to complain about the heat. June sees the beginning of the South West Monsoon, and brings with it the rainy season, which continues intermittently until the end of October. During this season, the air is warm and humid and the sky is typically overcast. From November to April, the air is much drier, with only a few days of rainfall per month. During the rainy season, and particularly from June to September, sunshine is limited to about five or six hours per day.
The north and northeast are generally cooler than Bangkok in winter, and hotter in summer. It will be warm during most of the trip. It gets hot in the sun at midday; in the north, it will cool down in the evening. Most of the country has abundant rainfall from May to October.
Laos: Laos has a typical tropical monsoon climate, but with some cool temperatures in winter. During the rainy season (May to October), the winds of the southwest monsoon deposit an average rainfall of between 50 and 90 inches. The dry season (November to April) is dominated by the northeast monsoon. December through February can be quite cool at night—lows can be in the 50s, even though daytime highs will be warm. Daytime highs increase to more than 90° F in March and stay that way through September. In October and November, the average temperature is in the 80s.
Cambodia: Cambodia’s climate can generally be described as tropical with seasonal monsoons. There are two distinct seasons, the rainy and dry. Temperatures during the rainy season, between June and October, average 80-95°F. The dry season is characterized by cool months, November to February, with temperatures averaging 80-95°F and hot months, from March till May, which sees temperature range between 84-100°F.
Vietnam: Vietnam lies entirely within the tropics. It has wet and dry seasons, which vary from north to south and with elevation changes. In the south, temperatures are fairly constant throughout the year, ranging between 75º and 85º F. The dry season runs from November to April and the wet season from May to October. The hottest period is during April to August, before the rains have broken. In the north, there’s also a short “winter” season, which runs from December to February. At this time, temperatures can drop to the 50s, with some drizzle. Typhoons are quite common in coastal areas between September and January.
Burma: Burma has a largely tropical climate with three seasons: the monsoon or rainy season, from May to October; the cool season, from late November to February; and the hot season, generally in March and April. Rainfall during the monsoon season totals more than 200 inches in upper Burma and over 100 inches in lower Burma and Rangoon. Central Burma, called the dry zone, and Mandalay, the chief city in the area, each receive about 30 inches. Mandalay is usually warm to hot, with average daily temperatures ranging from 56-82°F in January (cool season) to 77-100°F in April (hot season).
26 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Like the central region, lower Burma is warm to hot most of the year, especially in the delta and coastal areas. It is also the most humid region. Average daily temperatures in Rangoon range from 64–90°F in January (cool season) and from 75–97°F in April (hot season).
Hong Kong: Hong Kong’s climate is subtropical, with hot temperatures and high humidity much of the year. Damp spells can occur year-round. The winter months are slightly cooler than those of the spring and fall, when the weather is typically comfortably warm and sunny.
Climate Charts & Online Forecast The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.oattravel.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.
Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall
MONTH BANGKOK, THAILAND LUANG PRABANG, LAOS
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (avg) (inches) JAN 89 to 71 88 to 49 0 .4 82 to 56 70 0 .6 FEB 90 to 75 89 to 53 1 .1 89 to 58 62 0 .7 MAR 92 to 78 88 to 55 1 .2 93 to 63 58 1 .2 APR 94 to 80 86 to 56 2 .8 96 to 69 58 4 .3 MAY 92 to 80 87 to 62 7 .5 95 to 73 62 6 .4 JUN 91 to 80 85 to 64 6 .0 93 to 74 71 9 .1 JUL 90 to 78 86 to 64 6 .2 90 to 74 71 9 .1 AUG 90 to 78 87 to 66 7 .4 90 to 74 78 11 8. SEP 89 to 77 91 to 68 12 .6 91 to 73 72 6 .5 OCT 89 to 77 92 to 67 9 .1 89 to 69 71 3 .1 NOV 88 to 74 87 to 58 2 .3 85 to 64 70 1 .2 DEC 87 to 70 84 to 49 0 .4 81 to 59 71 0 .5
07/13/2017 LVC2017 27 MONTH SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA HO CHI MINH CITY, VIETNAM
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (avg) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 88 to 67 71 0 .1 88 to 72 87 to 51 0 .6 FEB 90 to 70 70 0 .5 90 to 73 85 to 50 0 .1 MAR 93 to 74 69 1 .0 92 to 76 83 to 52 0 .4 APR 94 to 76 68 2 .5 93 to 79 83 to 56 2 .0 MAY 93 to 76 75 5 .9 92 to 79 86 to 65 8 .4 JUN 91 to 76 79 7 .0 89 to 77 89 to 71 12 2. JUL 89 to 75 81 7 .9 89 to 77 90 to 70 11 .6 AUG 89 to 75 82 7 .9 88 to 77 91 to 71 10 7. SEP 87 to 75 84 10 .6 88 to 76 92 to 72 13 .5 OCT 87 to 73 84 9 .3 87 to 76 92 to 73 10 3. NOV 87 to 71 80 3 .4 87 to 74 90 to 65 4 .7 DEC 86 to 67 75 0 .6 87 to 72 87 to 58 1 .8
MONTH RANGOON, BURMA CHIANG MAI, THAILAND
Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 89 to 65 86 to 40 1 84 to 58 90 to 41 0 .3 FEB 94 to 67 88 to 33 1 89 to 60 84 to 34 0 .2 MAR 97 to 71 91 to 35 2 94 to 66 78 to 33 0 .6 APR 99 to 76 90 to 40 2 97 to 73 78 to 38 1 .8 MAY 92 to 78 92 to 65 17 93 to 75 83 to 52 6 .0 JUN 86 to 77 96 to 84 26 90 to 76 86 to 60 5 .3 JUL 85 to 76 96 to 85 28 89 to 75 88 to 63 6 .6 AUG 85 to 76 97 to 86 28 88 to 75 90 to 65 8 .9 SEP 86 to 76 96 to 80 22 88 to 74 91 to 64 9 .9 OCT 88 to 77 95 to 72 13 88 to 72 90 to 60 5 .2 NOV 89 to 73 92 to 60 6 85 to 67 90 to 53 1 .7 DEC 88 to 67 88 to 48 1 82 to 59 90 to 45 0 .6
28 LVC2017 07/13/2017 MONTH HONG KONG, CHINA
Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 67 to 58 75 to 64 1 .1 FEB 67 to 59 81 to 71 1 .7 MAR 71 to 63 85 to 76 2 .9 APR 77 to 69 86 to 76 5 .5 MAY 83 to 75 87 to 76 11 .2 JUN 86 to 79 85 to 75 15 .7 JUL 89 to 81 84 to 71 14 .3 AUG 89 to 81 85 to 73 14 .8 SEP 87 to 79 81 to 70 11 .7 OCT 83 to 75 74 to 65 4 .7 NOV 76 to 67 71 to 61 1 .5 DEC 70 to 60 71 to 60 1 .0
07/13/2017 LVC2017 29 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS
OAT Trip Leaders: A World of Difference During your adventure you’ll be accompanied by one of our local, expert Trip Leaders. All are fluent in English and possess the skills, certification, and experience necessary to ensure an enriching adventure. As locals of the regions you’ll explore with them, our Trip Leaders provide the kind of firsthand knowledge and insight that make local history, culture, and wildlife come alive. Coupled with their unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and ability to bring diverse groups of travelers together, our Trip Leaders ensure that your experience with OAT is one you’ll remember for a lifetime.
Culture & Points to Know For the adventurous soul, the challenges of traveling in Southeast Asia—in addition to the region’s renowned hospitality—make it a uniquely rewarding destination. You should be prepared for dust, pollution, traffic and large crowds in cities. Poverty can be distressing for some travelers, as can the history we’ll revisit at the Cu Chi tunnels and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek.
Meals Our meals will be based on the local cuisine. Western foods will be available at breakfast, but otherwise we will experience the foods of Southeast Asia—many of them containing ingredients that are new and different to us. Some dishes are vegetarian, but please note that no special accommodations can be guaranteed for dietary restrictions. Your Trip Leader can suggest restaurants for meals that are not included on your adventure.
Our Vehicles We use a variety of transportation, making our travel between destinations part of the fun. We experience traditional land and water transportation as well, riding in a local wooden boat at a lake in Siem Reap, or trying an ox-cart ride with a Cambodian farmer. We take five fairly short flights within this trip, the longest taking two hours. Air scheduling in this region is not as reliable as in the U.S., and delays and routing changes are often part of the picture here. Our Trip Leader will do everything possible to make the appropriate adjustments to our itinerary. We hope, that like most of our travelers, you take it in stride and develop an accepting and even lighthearted attitude. It’s part of the adventure.
Toilets All of our hotels feature Western-style seated toilets. However, public restrooms outside of our hotels may be limited to Asian-style squat toilets. It is also common for the public restrooms in this region to run low on toilet paper and/or soap, so we suggest that you carry a small packet of tissues and something to clean your hands (wipes, hand sanitizer) when you are out and about.
30 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Your International Flight: A Reminder The “rule of thumb” is to check in for your international flights about three hours before departure.
If any of your flights leave just after midnight or in the early morning hours, you may need to check in before midnight, which is technically the day before. For example: If your flight leaves at 12:05 a.m. on May 2nd, you would want to arrive for check-in at 9 p.m. on May 1st. You can confirm the date and time of your international flight by referring to your preliminary air itinerary.
Burma or Myanmar? Both names have origins in the local language—one is from the familiar word “Burmar”, and one is from the more formal “Mranma”. (It’s like the difference between the shortened “USA” and the more formal “United States of America”.)
However, due to historical and recent events, both names carry political overtones. According to the government, “Burma” is a colonial name that evokes British rule. Citing this reason, they changed the name of the country to Myanmar in 1989. For those opposed to the current government, the use of “Burma” shows a rejection of the current government’s legitimacy.
As a result, the use by official bodies and the media varies quite a bit. The U.S. Department of State and the BBC use “Burma”, while the United Nations, CNN, and New York Times use “Myanmar”. Regardless, the nationality and language are still referred to by all as “Burmese”.
Ultimately, the best solution might be the one used by many local people themselves—it is currently common practice to use “Burma” in everyday settings and “Myanmar” on official documents or for dealings with the government. (In our materials, you will notice that our usage mirrors this practice—“Burma” in this handbook, but “Myanmar” for your visa application.)
Religion Buddhism is the predominant religion in Burma, so an understanding of the religion will assist your discoveries. Based on the teachings of the Indian prince Siddhartha Gautama, later known as the Buddha, the religion focuses on moving past the suffering and pain of the everyday world to reach a union with the universe known as nirvana, or enlightenment. The region is an ancient one, predating Christianity by at least 400-600 years. Over the many centuries different paths to enlightenment have been put forward, resulting in different schools of Buddhism. Most of the Buddhists in Burma belong to the Theravada school, which is the oldest surviving school. It is estimated that Theravadins number more than 100 million worldwide, with large populations concentrated in southeast Asia, Sri Lanka, and Indonesia.
Theravada Buddhism holds critical or analytical thought in high esteem. The main idea is to advance towards enlightenment through experience, reasoning, and studying the teachings of the wise instead of blind faith alone. Like all Buddhists they believe that worldly attachments
07/13/2017 LVC2017 31 impede spiritual growth, and that through rightful thoughts, deeds, and words, one can achieve the wisdom to transcend suffering. Practicing Buddhists are expected to practice charity, moderation, and follow their school’s teachings.
In Burma, much of Buddhist religious life centers on the monasteries. Monks and nuns are highly respected, and many parents send their children to the monasteries for religious instruction. Most Burmese boys have a shinbyu ceremony, in which they briefly join a monastery as a novice at about age 7. During the ceremony, the young novice reenacts the Buddha’s journey from prince to prophet. It starts with a procession in princely attire to the monastery, where he dons monastic robes and his head is shaved. Usually the boy stays with the monks for a week or so, receiving religious instruction. When he 20 years or older, he can chose to return to the monastery for upasampada, or ordination.
Girls do not have a shinbyu ceremony, but they do receive religious instruction and can be ordained as nuns at or after the age of 20. The female rite of passage, the na htwin, is a ear- piercing ceremony (as in a physical piercing, not a loud or screeching noise). This ceremony is more of a social event then a religious one, since Burmese women traditionally wore earrings as a sign of social status.
Religious holidays include Thingyan (the New Year Water Festival), Vesakha (“Buddha’s Birthday”), and Wa-dwin (Buddhist Lent). Buddhist holidays follow a lunar calendar, so their exact date changes from year to year. But generally Thingyan falls in mid-April, Vesakha is always in May, and Wa-dwin is three months from roughly mid-July to mid-October. Local religious festivals are usually pagoda festivals, which double as old-fashioned market fairs, with stalls selling food and handicrafts.
Cuisine in Burma Burmese food has its own special identity. Although it draws on its’ neighbors, it is neither as hot as Thai, as spicy as Indian nor does it resemble Chinese cooking much except in the stir- fry vegetables.
Different regions within the country have different variations of “standard” dishes. Use of seafood is more prevalent along coastal cities such as Mawlamyine (formerly Moulmein), while land animals are more commonly used in landlocked cities. Beef and pork, although certainly not forbidden, are avoided by many Buddhists and Muslims. Vegetarian dishes are also common, as the Buddhist lent (Wa-dwin), a three-month fasting after midday is observed by many orthodox Buddhists.
Local dining tables are round and low-footed. Family members sit on the mat around the table to have meals. Unlike the Western kitchen, food is not served in courses. Dishes with different items are spread out on the table for people to take from themselves. Food is eaten with the fingers of the right hand. Homes in cities and towns have dining tables and chairs, some people eat with standard western utensils (fork, knife, and spoon.)
32 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Water Festival One of the biggest holidays in Burma is the week-long Burmese New Year, which is more commonly known as the Water Festival because of how it is celebrated—with locals of all ages splashing each other with water. This can be a joyful time of year, with lots of traditional music, dance, and street festivals. But it can also be crowded and noisy. Travelers who are in Burma during the festival should expect that their itinerary will have on-the-spot adjustments because of crowds, traffic, and business closures. They should also expect to get wet (you will be soaked) and join in the fun of what maybe the world’s biggest water party. The dates of the festival change from year to year, so we suggestion checking an online holiday calendar like www.timeanddate.com/holidays.
Cuisine in Thailand The variety of Thai food is truly amazing. Look forward to sampling meat, seafood, poultry, vegetable, and noodle dishes (a Thai specialty). Not all of it is spicy—in fact, much of it is very sweet or quite subtly flavored. Meals in Thailand are often served family-style, with five or more main courses, so vegetarians are easily accommodated. However, please note that any and all special accommodations for dietary restrictions (like vegetarian) cannot be guaranteed.
Images of the King of Thailand In Thailand the king is held in high regard, to the point where even images of him are treated respectfully. The King’s image is featured on the currency, so it is even important to avoid stepping on any coins that may have fallen.
Cuisine in Vietnam Vietnam’s national condiment is nuoc mam, a fermented fish sauce that is served with every meal. There are hundreds of distinctive Vietnamese dishes, many of which are tasty preparations of fish and seafood, with rice and fresh herbs as staples. Dishes are flavored with basil, parsley, coriander, chilies, lemon grass, lime, and laksa leaf. The Vietnamese grow and consume a variety of tropical fruits, including coconuts, bananas, melons, pineapples, lychees, mandarin oranges, and exotic items such as the green dragon fruit and the three-seeded cherry. Rice cakes and spring rolls are typical snacks, and most meals include a soup.
Rice is a staple of the cuisine, which also relies heavily on peanuts. The food can also be very spicy. To get the most enjoyment from your adventure, be open-minded about sampling different dishes and even using chopsticks. Please note that no special accommodations can be guaranteed for dietary restrictions.
Etiquette Don’t let the fine points of local customs worry you; locals know that visitors can’t be expected to know every detail. Much of what is considered polite in this region is similar to what’s polite in the U.S. But as a matter of interest, here are a few “finer points” that might surprise you:
07/13/2017 LVC2017 33 • Body posture is important. Sprawling, resting your feet on furniture or chairs, or pointing your feet at someone are seen as impolite.
• In temples you may notice locals sitting on the floor with their feet tucked under them or in a cross-legged position. This it to avoid pointing their feet at the Buddha, which is rude.
• A woman may speak to a Buddhist monk, and a man may speak with a Buddhist nun, but generally the correct thing is to let them approach you.
• You may see people greeting one another with a bow of the head, and in some countries this will be accompanied with hands pressed together as in prayer. Traditionally, the deeper the bow, the more respect one is showing, with the greatest respect being towards elders and clergy. For you, a gentle western-style handshake is an acceptable greeting, but if you wish to try the more traditional head bow, that’s OK too.
• Avoid wearing clothing imprinted with a Buddha logo or image as this may offend some of the locals.
Language Barrier You can have some great ‘conversations’ with local people who do not speak English, even if you don’t speak a word of the local language. Indeed, this non-verbal communication can be a highly rewarding part of travel. To break the ice, bring along some family photographs, or a few postcards of your hometown. If you want to meet kids, bring a puppet or other interactive toy. Your Trip Leader can help get the ball rolling.
Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people is about the same as it would be on the streets of your hometown. You need permission to take a close-up, but not for a crowd scene. Be especially polite if you want to photograph an older person. If you want to shoot a great portrait, show interest in your subject, try to have a bit of social interaction first. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK. Your Trip Leader can help.
Please do not take photographs of military personnel, military compounds, or other official institutions/personnel (such as police). This may result in the confiscation of your camera.
Safety & Security As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. If you are venturing out after dark, go with one or two other people. Carry a one-day supply of cash in your pocket. Carry most of your money, and your passport, in a travel pouch or money belt under your shirt. Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, or in our vehicle.
34 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Do not leave valuable items unattended in your room or on the bus. Almost all of our hotels offer use of a hotel safe at the front desk or an electronic in-room safe (for which you can set a personal PIN number). Please utilize them.
Pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your money belt. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, be very careful. Con artists sometimes target travelers.
Shopping There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. OAT is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.
Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.
Crafts & Souvenirs
Burma Burma is famous for its exquisite handicrafts, most of which were handed down from generation to generation. Perhaps the most famous of these is lacquerware, a craft that dates back to the 11th century. There are many lacquerware workshops in Bagan and Nyaung Oo area. In Rangoon, a good place to shop is Scott Market (Bogyoke Aung San Market), which sells luxury items, handicrafts, foodstuffs, clothing, jewelry and consumer goods.
Burma is also known for jewelry and gemstones, but beware—you are not allowed to bring back rubies or jades to the U.S. if they were mined in Burma.
Thailand Thailand offers a variety of fine craft items at good prices. Traditional souvenirs include hill tribe handicrafts, including elaborate jewelry, colorful textiles, bronzeware cutlery, celadon pottery, and Thai lacquerware. Bangkok is famous the world over for its street markets— Pratunam, Chatuchak Park, Khlong Toey, Sampheng (Chinatown), Banglamphu, and many more. Local products include hand-woven cottons, decorative items made of silver, teakwood carvings, and gems. The best bargains in gems are jade, rubies, and sapphires, but buy from
07/13/2017 LVC2017 35 reputable dealers only. Thai silk, renowned for its lush colors and pleasantly rough texture, is considered some of the best in the world and can be purchased in the fabric shops of Chiang Mai.
Note that larger department stores in Bangkok have fixed prices. Almost everywhere else bargaining is expected, especially at outdoor stalls.
Vietnam Vietnam offers many fine craft items at good prices. Traditional souvenirs include silk, precious stones, hilltribe handicrafts, including elaborate jewelry, colorful textiles, and opium pipes, bronzeware cutlery, nielloware silver inlaid items, and lacquerware. Local products include hand-woven cottons, decorative items made of silver, teakwood carvings, and gems. The best bargains in gems are jade, rubies, and sapphires, but buy from reputable dealers only.
Merchants enjoy negotiating prices almost everywhere but if you make an offer you should be prepared to buy at that price. It is not unusual for the clerks in some stores in Vietnam to follow, assist, and advise you throughout the store—much as a personal shopper would do in the U.S. This is meant to be polite rather than pestering.
Note about antiquities:Think carefully before purchasing an expensive “antiquity.” It is illegal to remove antique furniture or ceramics from Vietnam. To complicate matters further, any item that looks old can only be exported with the written permission of the Antique Art Business Division of the government Fine Arts Department. Some stores will offer to arrange this for you, but this may be unreliable.
U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.
The top three points to know are:
• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.
• Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to- door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.
• It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.
36 LVC2017 07/13/2017 TIP: According to the U.S. Customs & Border Protection website, the general U.S. sanctions against Burma were lifted as November 2012. However, at time of writing it was still illegal to bring back jade or rubies that were mined in Burma.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 37 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY
Burma
Facts & Figures • Area: 261,227 square miles
• Capital: Nay Pyi Taw
• Languages: Burmese is the official language; ethnic and regional dialects are also spoken.
• Ethnicites: Burman 68%, Shan 9%, Karen 7%, Rakhine 4%, Chinese 3%, Mon 2%, Indian 2%, other 5%
• Location: Burma is bordered by India, China, Laos, Thailand, and the Andaman Sea.
• Geography: Burma’s terrain is dominated by steep, rugged highlands that ring the central lowlands. Through the lowlands flows Burma’s major river, the Irrawaddy, which empties into the Andaman Sea through a large delta covering over 63 million acres. Although the administrative capital is Nay Pyi Taw, the two largest cities in Burma are actually Rangoon (pop. 5.5 million) and Mandalay (pop. 1.2 million).
• Population: 55,746,253
• Religions: Buddhist 89%, Christian 4%, Muslim 4%, animist 1%, other 2%
• Time Zone: Burma is on Myanmar Standard Time, 11.5 hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 5:30pm in Nay Pyi Taw.
National Holidays: Burma
In addition to the holidays listed below, 02/12 Union Day Burma celebrates a number of national 03/03 Peasants’ Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as the Water Festival, Maha Thingyan. To 03/27 Armed Forces Day find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate. 05/01 Labor Day/May Day com/holidays. 07/19 Martyrs’ Day 01/04 Independence Day 12/25 Christmas Day
Historical Overview of Burma Early History—The Pyu and the Mon
Human habitation in the area around the Irrawaddy river valley dates back many thousands of years. Little is known about the Stone Age peoples, but artifacts from the Bronze Age point to a fairly sophisticated culture that grew rice and domesticated chickens and pigs. By 500 BC,
38 LVC2017 07/13/2017 the Iron Age cultures that lived in the Samon Valley (south of Mandalay) seem to have been trading with China; their decorated coffins and pottery suggest a prosperous community with a distinct culture.
Perhaps it was the prosperity that drew the Pyu people from their northern lands in the first century BC. Over the next five centuries, the Pyu founded several cities, established a lucrative trade route between China and India, and adopted Buddhism. During this era, the greatest of the Pyu cities was Sri Ksetra (near modern-day Pyay). It was from Sri Ksetra that the Pyu oversaw their expansion into a federation of 18 city-states spread throughout northern Burma.
During the same time, the Mon people migrated from an area in present-day Thailand into southern Burma, and established a few small kingdoms there. It seems that the Mon and the Pyu largely tolerated each other, possibly because their trade routes were to different parts of the world (the Mon worked with Arab traders, the Pyu with the Chinese). Or maybe it was that as Buddhists, both groups were generally quite peaceful. Chinese records from the eighth century AD describe the Pyu as a gentle people who refrained from wearing silk so as to avoid killing silkworms. In other words: not warriors. Which perhaps explains why the Pyu city- states quickly fell to the invading Burman cavalry around 830 AD.
Empire, Division, Repeat
In 849 AD, Pagan (present-day Bagan) was founded by the Burman invaders. Over the next 200 years, the settlement grew into a major power base for the Burmans, who slowly absorbed the Pyu into their new nation. In 1044, the Burman leader Anawrahta ascended to the throne. Considered to be the first king of Burma, Anawrahta defeated the southern Mon in the 1057 siege of the city of Thaton, thus uniting the old Pyu and Mon territories under one ruler.
But his ambitions were not limited to the Mon. Over the course of 30 years, the king laid the foundation of what was to become the Pagan Empire—a major power in southeast Asia that rivaled the Khmer kingdom in Cambodia. During their 240-year-reign, the Pagan Dynasty implemented many key changes that would impact Burma for centuries. For example, they implemented large-scale agricultural and irrigation projects, made Burmese the court language, and introduced the Theravada school of Buddhism as the official religion. They also built thousands of pagodas, monuments, and monasteries, especially in their capital city of Pagan (Bagan).
As with many dynasties in Asia, the undoing of this “Golden Age” was the Mongol hordes, who swept in and conquered Pagan in 1287. In the resulting confusion and destabilization, Burma divided into a series of small rival kingdoms such as Ava (near modern Mandalay) and Hanthawaddy (near modern Pegu). Politically unstable, subject to internal rebellions, and often at war with each other, the kingdoms were a patchwork of ever-shifting alliances.
It wasn’t until the 1500s that Burma was re-united once again. This time it was the charismatic King Tabinshwehti who brought the kingdoms together. Together with his successor, Bayinnaung, the king founded the Taungoo Dynasty, re-united Burma, and
07/13/2017 LVC2017 39 conquered additional territory such as some Chinese Shan states, parts of Thailand, and parts of Laos. But the additional territories over-extended the dynasty’s resources, and ultimately proved to be too much to hold on to. In 1599, the Taungoo capital city at Pegu was sacked.
The Taungoo Comeback
What makes the 1599 sacking of Pegu such a key moment in Burma’s history is who the attacking force was backed by—the Portuguese. It was the first hint of a European power trying to widen its influence in Burma through force. Yet despite the damage to their capital, the Taungoo were able to regroup and successfully reclaim some of their territory in northern Burma by 1605. They used this territory as a base from which they challenged the Portuguese forces, defeating them at Thanlyin in 1613. By 1650, the Taungoo Dynasty had recaptured and reunited Burma.
While other neighboring countries where being colonized by European powers, the Taungoo managed to hold in to Burma until 1752, when internal fighting divided the country once again. Although the feudal period was long over, the country split into rival groups that echoed earlier history—the Taungoo, who were a Burman dynasty with roots in the old kingdom of Ava, were ousted by a rebellion of Mons with roots in the old kingdom of Hanthawaddy.
The Hanthawaddy rule was brief—only seven years. In 1759, they were successfully challenged by the military-minded Konbaung Dynasty. At first the Konbaung kept the European powers at bay. They even managed to conquer territory in Thailand, China, and India. However, it was their involvement in India during the 1820s that drew the ire of the British.
Anglo-Burmese Wars
In 1824, a series of border raids between India and Burma sparked of the First Anglo-Burmese War. The war was brief—only two years—and resulted in Burma ceding almost all of its foreign territory. With the Second Anglo-Burmese War in 1852, the British seized part of Burma itself, yet allowed the king to continue his rule. With the Third Anglo-Burmese war in 1885, the British took the entire country, and sent the king into exile in India.
Although their rule was relatively brief, and they eventually lost to the British, the Konbaung Dynasty oversaw an important transition period. The arts thrived, especially literature and theater. The country’s first standard coinage was introduced. They also started a major reorganization of the monasteries, known as the Sudhamma Reformation. Under the Konbaung, it seemed that Burma was recapturing some of its importance from the days of the Taungoo Dynasty.
In contrast, when the British took over, they made Burma a province of India, essentially reducing it to a backwater. Economically, the union created a boom in rice and other crops, but the profits rarely reached the locals. Adding to the complexity of the situation was the fact that many workers and professionals from India were brought in to Burma; because of the already existing ties between India and Great Britain, the Indians were viewed as suspect by many of the local population.
The Thirty Comrades
40 LVC2017 07/13/2017 During the 1920s and 1930s, the main resistance against the British rule came from religious groups like the YMBA (Young Men’s Buddhist Association) and the RUSU (Rangoon University Students Union).
With the outbreak of World War II, these young nationalists were torn between serving with Great Britain—who might thereby grant independence after the war—or joining the forces against Britain. Led by respected activist Aung San, a group known as the “Thirty Comrades” secretly approached Japan with an offer to collude against the British. But when it became apparent that the Japanese government would not keep its promises, the Burmese army, now headed by Aung San, officially joined the Allied forces.
After the war, Great Britain did acknowledge Burma’s independence. A constitution for an independent Burma was in the works when tragedy struck—a political rival assassinated Aung San and several members of his political party on July 19, 1947. Despite the shocking event (or perhaps because of it) the new constitution was quickly passed in 1948. From 1948 until 1962, the government was a parliamentary democracy headed by a Prime Minister. But internal politics and divisions among ethnic groups meant the government’s hold was tenuous. In 1962 a coup lead by General Ne Win abolished the constitution and established military rule.
Military Junta and Resistance
The military government’s extreme socialist economics meant that everything was nationalized—utilities, industry, even retail shops. This in turn slowed the national economy to a virtual standstill. In March of 1988, a student protest against the worsening economic conditions won public sympathy and touched off a wave of protests and rallies throughout the country. It was during this time that Aung San’s daughter, Aung San Suu Kyi, began to emerge as the voice of the opposition party, the NDL (National League for Democracy).
In September of 1988, a group of generals formed the State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC). To control the uprisings, SLORC used the army against the protesters. It is estimated that over 3,000 protesters or activists were killed and roughly 10,000 fled. SLORC then placed the country under martial law and announced an election to select an assembly that would write a new constitution. Unfortunately for SLORC, it was the opposition— Aung San Suu Kyi’s NLD—who won the majority of the seats in the 1990 election.
The military responded by refusing to let the assembly meet, and by holding two of the NLD leaders, Aung San Suu Kyi and U Tin U, under house arrest. It was while under house arrest that Aung San Suu Kyi won her Nobel Peace Award in 1991. For the next two decades, the government would periodically relax its restrictions on Aung San Suu Kyi, only to detain her again or re-arrest her.
It wasn’t until 1993 that the Constitutional Assembly was allowed to meet, and in the end they could not overcome the restrictions set by the military; the assembly was dissolved in 1996 without having created a constitution. It was not reconvened until 2005, but major pro- democratic groups like the NLD were barred from participating, and once again the assembly failed to produce a constitution.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 41 Recent History
On May 10, 2008 the government held a referendum on the constitution, which many international observers questioned, especially since it was held in the wake of Cyclone Nargis. The cyclone had hit the Irrawaddy and Rangoon areas on May 2 and May 3, causing extensive damage and loss of life. It is considered the worst natural disaster in Burma’s history. Burma’s government was widely criticized by the international community for holding the referendum only one week later. In addition, the government created many delays and complications in delivering humanitarian aid, actions that were also strongly criticized.
Although the 2010 election results were largely pro-government, the release of Aung San Suu Kyi in 2010, and her open participation in the 2012 elections (she won a seat in Parliament) signaled a major change in Burmese politics. President Barack Obama visited with Aung San Suu Kyi back in 2012, making him the first President of the United States to ever visit Burma. In an effort to support a potential shift towards democracy, President Obama returned to Burma in 2014.
Cambodia
Facts & Figures • Area: 69,898 square miles
• Capital: Phnom Penh
• Languages: Khmer is the official language; English and French are also spoken.
• Location: Cambodia is bordered by Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam.
• Geography: The ancient Khmer kingdom we now call Cambodia is a nation of 14.5 million people in a country about the size of Missouri. This is a country of geographical contrasts—the borders of Cambodia are mountainous and rugged, but a rich, alluvial plain dominates the center of the country. Here the Mekong River, the Tonle Sap River, and the Tonle Sap Lake create a prosperous farming and fishing region full of rice fields and fishing villages.
• Population: 15,458,332
• Religion: Buddhist 96.9%, Muslim 1.9%, other 0.4%, unspecified 0.8%
• Time Zone: Cambodia is on Indochina Time, twelve hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 6pm in Phnom Penh.
42 LVC2017 07/13/2017 National Holidays: Cambodia
In addition to the holidays listed below, 03/08 International Women Day Cambodia celebrates a number of national 05/01 Labor Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar. To find out if you will be traveling during these 09/24 Constitutional Day holidays, please visit www.timeanddate. com/holidays. 10/15 Commemoration Day of King’s Father
01/01 New Year’s Day 10/29 King’s Coronation Day
01/07 Victory over Genocide Day 11/09 Independence Day
12/10 International Human Rights Day
Historical Overview of Cambodia Early History
Cambodia was once the center of the great Khmer empire that ruled much of central Southeast Asia for five centuries. We can trace the history in this region back to at least the 6th century when Cambodia was part of the Kingdom of Funan. The Khmer people broke away from the Funans and established their own state, Chinla, which after centuries of conflict was itself invaded and conquered by warriors from Java. By A.D. 800, under Jayavarman II, the great Khmer temples were built and a centralized government ruled the land from the Tonle Sap to Angkor. The Khmer continued to expand their influence until by the end of the 10th century they controlled what are now Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam.
The next several centuries brought a succession of wars as the Khmers fought off invaders. During a period of peace and prosperity from 1181 to 1201, the Khmer rulers conceived and built an elaborate capital at Angkor Thom. Perhaps because of the lavish lifestyle and the costs associated with the construction of Angkor Thom, the Khmer empire began a gradual decline from this opulent peak, hastened by a series of wars with the Siamese.
Foreign Influence
As the Khmer empire declined, foreign pressures appeared. In 1596 a Spanish expeditionary force invaded and attacked the capital Phnom Penh. The Spanish presence didn’t last; they were in turn defeated and expelled by the Siamese.
The Khmer empire continued its decline after this with various occupations and an almost constant state of war with Thailand and Vietnam, which both claimed lands once ruled by the Khmers. Asian control over the region ended in 1863 when the French sent gunboats into the area to create a French protectorate. The French succeeded and began a long period of domination of Cambodia by installing French administrative, financial, and education systems.
Modern History
07/13/2017 LVC2017 43 France ruled Cambodia until 1941 when the Japanese army swept across Indochina and, while expelling the French, brought terror of its own. With the defeat of Japan and the end of World War II, the French returned to Cambodia. But now they found opposition. By 1953 a strong local leader, King Sihanouk, had risen to power with the Khmer and sought independence for his country. King Sihanouk was a masterful politician and succeeded in wringing form the French the independence of Cambodia. King Sihanouk also established the People’s Socialist Party at this time. After abdicating the throne to pursue a political career, Sihanouk became the country’s first prime minister. He managed to keep Cambodia neutral in the Vietnam War until 1965, when he broke with the United States and allowed North Vietnam and the Vietcong to use Cambodian territory. This led to the bombing of Cambodia by United States forces.
Sihanouk was deposed by one of his generals in 1970 and fled the country to China, where he set up a government in exile that supported the Cambodian revolutionary movement known as the Khmer Rouge. Meanwhile, in Cambodia, United States and South Vietnamese forces invaded the country in an attempt to eliminate Vietcong forces hiding there. For the next five years, as savage fighting spread throughout Cambodia, the Khmer Rouge gained land and power. In 1975 the capital at Phnom Penh fell to the Khmer Rouge, and their leader, Pol Pot, became the leader of Cambodia.
What followed for the next three years remains one of the most horrific incidents in world history. The Khmer Rouge forced the entire population of Phnom Penh and other cities to evacuate to the countryside where they were placed in slave labor units and forced to do manual work until they dropped from exhaustion. Pol Pot and his followers began a campaign of systematic genocide against their own people, with the aim of returning Cambodia to the agrarian society of centuries before. Great segments of the population were slaughtered senselessly. People with any type of education (or those who just looked educated because they wore glasses), or were doctors and nurses, anybody who had worked at a bank—these people were all mindlessly killed. Banks were blown up, airports closed, and money was abolished. The horror of the Pol Pot regime went unnoticed for several years.
Finally in 1978, Vietnam, which had been watching the persecution and death of its own citizens trapped in Cambodia, invaded Cambodia and chased Pol Pot and his followers out of the cities and back into the remote mountains. By 1979, Pol Pot had been ousted and the Vietnamese installed a new government. Until 1990 civil war continued sporadically in Cambodia, but gradually the murderous followers of Pol Pot were eliminated from power. Pol Pot died under house arrest in 1998.
Recent Years
Throughout the 1990’s United Nations peacekeeping efforts helped stabilize the country. By 1997, a government amnesty convinced most Khmer Rouge partisans to cease fighting, and on October 4, 2004 the Cambodian National Assembly agreed with the U.N. to set up an international war crimes tribunal to try senior Khmer Rouge officials for the genocide of the 1970s. The first trial began in 2009 against the former head of the infamous Tuol Sleng
44 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Prison, Brother Dutch. He was convicted of crimes against humanity in 2010, and although he appealed, the conviction was upheld in 2012. More leaders are expected to be tried over the next decade.
Another stabilizing influence during recent decades has been the return of the monarchy in 1993, when King Sihanouk was restored to the throne. In 2004, ill health forced him to abdicate in favor of his son, Norodom Sihamoni, who currently reigns as a constitutional monarch (similar to the system in Great Britain). But even after abdicating, King Sihanouk continued to be a popular figure, and many were saddened when he passed away on October 15th, 2012 from a heart attack only 16 days before his 90th birthday.
Recent events in Cambodia have focused on the government’s approval of a controversial hydroelectric dam on a tributary of the Mekong River. Known as Lower Sesan 2, the dam could provide much-needed electric power and improve Cambodia’s relations with other countries (some of the funding is coming from abroad, mostly China). But opponents fear the dam’s impact on the ecology and the thousands of villagers who will need to be moved from the floodplains.
Laos
Facts & Figures • Area: 91,429 square miles
• Capital: Vientiane
• Languages: Lao is the official language; French, English, and various ethnic languages are also spoken.
• Ethnicity: Lao 55%, Khmou 11%, Hmong 8%, other (over 100 minor ethnic groups) 26%
• Location: Laos is bordered by Thailand, Vietnam, China, Cambodia, and Burma.
• Geography: Unlike many of its neighbors, Laos is somewhat sparsely populated. The rugged and difficult terrain makes farming a struggle, and while fishing is important along the rivers, Laos has no coastline. The Mekong River, an important source of commerce and transportation, runs through Laos and links the country to the outside.
• Population: 6,803,699
• Religions: Buddhist 67%, Christian 1.5%, other and unspecified 31.5%
• Time Zone: Laos is twelve hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 6pm in Vientiane.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 45 National Holidays: Laos
In addition to the holidays listed below, Laos 03/08 International Women’s Day celebrates a number of national holidays 05/01 Labor Day/ May Day that follow a lunar calendar. To find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, 06/01 Children’s Day please visit www.timeanddate.com/ holidays. 11/14 That Luang Festival
01/01 New Year’s Day 12/02 National Day
Historical Overview Early History
Civilization in the Mekong River Valley where Laos is located stretches back at least 10,000 years and centers around the Mekong River. The Thai and Lao people who now inhabit Laos were originally ruled by the Mons and Khmers. In the 13th century, the Mongols under Kublai Khan in China overran the region. A long period of discontent led to local uprisings that finally drove out the Mongols and brought the kingdom of Northern Thailand into existence. From the kingdom of Northern Thailand and the Khmer lands, the first Lao nation, called Lan Xang, began in the 14th century.
An early leader, Fa Ngum, embraced Buddhism and made it the official state religion. He also accepted from the Khmers the Pha Bang, a gold Buddha that became a symbolic and powerful influence throughout Lao history. Lan Xang soon became the most powerful of the many kingdoms in the Mekong Valley, and by the 17th century Vientiane was established as its capital and used as the name of the nation.
Foreign Influence
Siam, one of the other powerful nations in the Mekong Valley, and the kingdom of Vientiane fought a series of wars that by 1820 left the region in tatters. The Siamese continued with their aggression and by 1885 ruled all of the Mekong Valley. The power of the Siamese was not to last, however. The French arrived in Southeast Asia about this time and, using what we now call gunboat diplomacy, took over the various small kingdoms that now existed and turned them into a single principality that they governed and called Laos.
The French did little for Laos—concentrating instead on developing the territories of Vietnam and Cambodia where they built cities, roads, and railroads, and supported education and commerce. Laos, however, was neglected by the French and did not share in the prosperity of its neighbors.
Modern History
The French influence came to an abrupt end when the Japanese invaded Indochina in 1941. Laos, and the other countries in the region, were turned into Japanese territories until the end of World War II in 1945. The French tried to retake their former colonies when the war
46 LVC2017 07/13/2017 ended by landing paratroopers in Vientiane and declaring it a French protectorate. A resistance movement led by a group called the Pathet Lao quickly grew in the region, and by 1953 the French gave in and granted sovereignty to Laos.
The decade of the 1950s saw the rise of nationalism in Laos with two dominant groups, the Viet Minh and the Pathet Lao. After a decade-long struggle for control of the country, the internal conflict left Laos divided and weak. By 1964, as the civil war continued, Laos was dragged into the conflict between North Vietnam and the United States. The notorious Ho Chi Minh trail ran through Laos and helped supply the Vietcong and North Vietnamese troops fighting against U.S. forces. Heavy U.S. bombing devastated the country during this period and Laos broke apart into two sections—the Royal Lao government in Vientiane and the Pathet Lao in the northeast. The Royal Lao government was ineffective, and by the late 1960s the communist Pathet Lao controlled many sections of the country.
The peace agreement that ended the Vietnam War in 1973 brought only more instability to Laos. By 1975 the Pathet Lao, who continued to grow in power, effectively controlled the entire country. However, large parts of the population were afraid of the Pathet Lao and fled Laos. This loss of people convinced the Pathet Lao to change their harsh policies, which they did gradually through the 1980s. In 1987, important trade and financial restrictions were lifted and the economy entered the modern era. Religious restrictions against Buddhism and travel restrictions on visitors were also lifted.
By the end of the 1990’s the improvements in government policies and the re-opening of the country began to reverse the previous exodus—more than 28,000 refugees voluntarily returned to Laos and in 2001, the UN High Commission for Refugees closed their Laos office. But despite these positive signs, one the country’s greatest challenges—inflation—continued to trigger economic crises and political unrest. In response, the government turned to tourism as a way to improve the economy, creating a successful “Visit Laos” campaign. Today tourism remains a major force in the Lao economy.
In June of 2012, Hillary Clinton became the first U.S. Secretary of State to visit Laos in over fifty years. As part of the historic trip, the U.S. agreed to continue a clean-up effort to rid the country of unexploded cluster bombs leftover from the U.S. bombings in the late 60s and early 70s.
Thailand
Facts & Figures • Area: 198,115 square miles
• Capital: Bangkok
• Languages: Thai, English (secondary language of the elite), and ethnic and regional dialects are spoken.
• Ethnicities: Thai 95.9%, Burmese 2%, other 2.2%
07/13/2017 LVC2017 47 • Location: Thailand is bordered by Burma, Laos, Cambodia, and Malaysia
• Geography: Thailand is roughly the size of France or the state of Texas. The country has been described as a huge rice paddy interrupted by the sprawling metropolis of Bangkok. However, that assessment isn’t entirely fair. In fact, the country’s geography is actually quite varied, with a rich central plain, heavily forested mountains in the north, and a tropical rain forest along the southern peninsula.
• Population: 67,741,401
• Religions: Buddhist 93.6%, Muslim 4.9%, Christian 1.2%, other 0.2%, none 0.1% (2014 estimate)
• Time zone: Thailand is twelve hours ahead of U.S. EST. So when it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 6pm in Bangkok.
National Holidays: Thailand
In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/01 Labor Day Thailand celebrates a number of national 05/05 Coronation Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar. To find out if you will be traveling during these 08/12 The Queen’s Birthday/ Mother’s Day holidays, please visit www.timeanddate. com/holidays. 10/23 Chulalongkorn Day
01/01 New Year’s Day 12/05 The King’s Birthday/ Father’s Day
04/06 Chakri Day 12/10 Constitution Day
04/13 Songkran 12/25 Christmas Day
Historical Overview of Thailand Early History
The Thai people originated in what is now Yunan, China. After Mongols invaded the state of Nanchao, the Thai migrated down the Mekong River into what is now known as Thailand. They separated into several distinct groups, including the Siamese, the Lao and the Shan, but remained in close contact. Through wars and diplomacy, the Thai quickly flooded across the great plain of the Chao Phraya River, and the first unified Thai kingdom, called Sukhotai, was formed in the 13th century.
A distinct Thai culture developed as the kingdom expanded. A dominant aspect of this culture was the importance of Buddhism in daily life. Every village had a Buddhist wat, or temple complex, where festivals and social events took place. These temples also served as schools, orphanages, and hospitals—the monks who lived there were often skilled at local medicine.
The Chakri Dynasty
48 LVC2017 07/13/2017 The Burmese invaded Ayudthaya in 1767, driving the Thai into the center of the country. A large portion of the population settled in the fertile valley of the central plain, giving rise to a new capital in Bangkok. Shielded by heavily forested mountains to the north, and secure from attack by neighboring states, the city flourished. The new Thai kingdom that grew up around Bangkok became known as Siam, a reference to the Siamese people of the central plains, where Bangkok is located.
Around 1800, Siam’s great Chakri dynasty rose to power and created the groundwork for the modern nation-state of Thailand. The Chakri instituted a central bureaucracy, asserted authority over numerous tribes that had previously been ruled by local chieftains, and initiated a program of military conquest throughout the region. Over the next century, the Siamese Empire grew to include parts of modern-day Burma, Cambodia, and Malaysia. Perhaps even more importantly, the Chakri kings managed to keep Siam free from western colonial domination.
The Birth of a Nation
By the turn of the century, modernization had increased the number and types of jobs available, especially in government and the military. The prevailing policy was to fill these jobs based largely on education. Many Thai began sending their children overseas to be educated. When the children returned home, they brought with them western views on the scope and purpose of government. This new generation of educated Thai saw the Siamese political system as antiquated and began demanding a larger share of power.
In 1932, the situation came to a head. The monarchy was overthrown in a bloodless revolution and the country’s name was changed to Muang Thai, “Land of the Free.” However, most peasants and farmers continued to view the king as the moral leader of the nation, and the king was eventually invited to return as a constitutional monarch. He lacks political power, but serves as the head of state—a unifying symbol of Thai culture.
During World War II, Thailand was allied with Japan. Despite protest from the British and French, the United States never recognized Thailand’s declaration of war. The decision paid off, as the close relationship between the two countries proved to be a pivotal component of the United States’ post-war policy in Southeast Asia. In the decades directly following the end of the war, Thailand saw a number of different political regimes, mostly military dictatorships. Change began to manifest itself in the early 1970s with the student-led October 14 uprising in 1973.
For the next few decades, the government would vacillate between civilian democracies and military regimes. A recent example of this type of political reversal occurred in 2006 with the dissolution of parliament and a bloodless coup against Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, which was resolved by a 2007 national referendum approving a new constitution. The subsequent general election in 2007 gave a majority to the People’s Power Party, which was allied with the ousted Prime Minister Thaksin. But in 2008 the party was forced to disband amidst a storm of controversy over charges of election fraud.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 49 The 2006 coup and subsequent controversy continue to mark Thai politics. The two main factions—the Red Shirts and the Yellow Shirts—each accuse each other of having been involved in some wrongdoing. The Red Shirts view the Yellow Shirts as supporting the coup and therefore interfering with the democratic process; the Yellow Shirts counter that the Red Shirts are controlled by former Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, whom they view as corrupt.
Although there have been some clashes, the resulting demonstrations by both groups have been largely peaceful and often mediated by the royal family, for whom both sides have shown great respect. (As a constitutional monarch the power of the king is limited to a symbolic figurehead, however the institution elicits huge amount of respect and reverence from the Thai people.)
Vietnam
Facts & Figures • Area: 127,800 square miles
• Capital: Hanoi
• Languages: Vietnamese (official), English (increasingly favored as a second language), some French, Chinese, and Khmer; mountain area languages (Mon-Khmer and Malayo-Polynesian)
• Ethnicities: Kinh (Viet) 85.7%, Tay 1.9%, Thai 1.8%, Muong 1.5%, Khmer 1.5%, Mong 1.2%, Nung 1.1%, other 5.3%
• Location: Vietnam is bordered by the South China Sea, China, Laos, and Cambodia.
• Geography: It is about a thousand miles long and ranges in width from 30 miles in the central region to 400 miles in the north. There are five principle geographic areas. There are two mountainous areas, covered largely by forests or jungles: the Northern Highlands, located in the northwest, and the Annamite Range that extends from it down the western portion of the country towards Ho Chi Minh City. The two delta areas—the Red River Delta in the north and the Mekong Delta in the south—hold most of the country’s population and also provide the majority of the country’s farmland. The Coastal Lowlands, which lie between the delta areas, are also heavily populated.
• Population: 93,421,835
• Religions: Buddhist 9.3%, Catholic 6.7%, Hoa Hao 1.5%, Cao Dai 1.1%, Protestant 0.5%, Muslim 0.1%, none 80.8%. (Although Communists have discouraged the practice of religion, those who do practice are generally Buddhists.)
• Time zone: Vietnam is twelve hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 6pm in Hanoi.
50 LVC2017 07/13/2017 National Holidays: Vietnam
In addition to the holidays listed below, 01/01 New Year’s Day Vietnam celebrates a number of national 04/30 Liberation Day/Reunification Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar. To find out if you will be traveling during these 05/01 International Labor Day holidays, please visit www.timeanddate. com/holidays. 09/02 Independence Day
09/04 Independence Day (Day 2)
Historical Overview of Vietnam Vietnam’s earliest known residents were hunters and farmers who migrated into the area from the north and south. At the end of the third century B.C., the Red River Delta area and a portion of southeastern China became a kingdom named Nam Viet. The Chinese conquered this area in 111 B.C., and it remained a Chinese province for over a thousand years, first called Jiao Zhi and later, Annam.
Annam became an independent kingdom in A.D. 938, and its first Vietnamese ruler renamed the country Dai Co Viet. The next 900 years saw Dai Co Viet grow into an empire ruled by powerful family dynasties. During the eleventh and twelfth centuries the Ly dynasty ruled, the empire prospered, and art flourished. In 1225, the Tran dynasty came to power and ruled for 175 years.
The army of Dai Co Viet continued to defend the country’s independence, defeating Mongol invaders and, in 1288, holding off the army of Kublai Khan. The only break in 900 years of self-rule was the period between 1407 and 1427, when the Chinese again took control. The Le Dynasty re-established independence from China in 1427, and the country became known as simply Dai Viet. Though nominally under Le rule, civil war between the Trinh and Nguyen families persisted through much of the 17th and 18th centuries. In 1802, Nguyen Anh unified the country and named it Vietnam, giving himself the title Emperor Gia Long.
Western influence had begun in the 16th century with the arrival of European traders and Roman Catholic missionaries. The Dai Viet rulers eventually felt threatened, and persecuted the missionaries in the 17th and 18th centuries. Seeking to protect the missionaries and to become a power in the area, French forces entered Vietnam in 1858, taking control of the country by 1883. Vietnam became part of French Indochina, and remained under French domination until 1940, when Germany occupied France during World War II and Germany’s ally Japan took control of Vietnam.
After Japan’s defeat, in September 1945, the communist Vietminh led by Ho Chi Minh gained control of many regions of the country. Ho Chi Minh declared Vietnam an independent nation—the Democratic Republic of Vietnam. France re-asserted its claim on the region, and French forces regained control in the south. However, resistance from the Vietminh continued, and the Communists still controlled the north. By late 1946, the Indochina War was in full progress, continuing until 1954, when the French were defeated at Dien Bien Phu.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 51 In 1954, delegates to an international conference in Geneva agreed to a temporary division of Vietnam into two separate countries—North and South Vietnam. In 1955, elections were held in South Vietnam, and Ngo Dinh Diem was chosen leader. By 1957, the Vietminh in the south, now called the Viet Cong, had begun an armed revolt against Diem’s government, supported by North Vietnam. More countries were drawn in as the fighting continued, including the U.S., which became deeply embroiled in the conflict by the late 1960s. The U.S.S.R. and China supported North Vietnam. In South Vietnam, a series of coups eventually brought army general Nguyen Van Thieu to power; he was then elected president in 1967. In North Vietnam, the Communist Party Politburo took over following Ho Chi Minh’s death in 1969.
The war ended in 1975 with the withdrawal of American troops. In 1976, the country was unified under the Communists as the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, and Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City. More than three million Vietnamese had been killed in the decades of war, and the country’s economy had been devastated. Many Vietnamese emigrated to the U.S. and other countries. In 1978, Vietnam severed its ties with China and aligned itself more closely with the Soviet Union. That same year, Vietnam drew China’s wrath by invading Cambodia, an incursion that lasted into the 1980s. Under the leadership of Nguyen Van Linh, the mid- to late-1980s was a period of major economic and policy change in Vietnam. In response to the disintegration of the Soviet Union and the loss of its economic support, Vietnam began to liberalize its trade policies, allow private enterprise, and encourage foreign trade.
From 1990 to 1997, Vietnam’s economy grew rapidly. In 1994, the U.S. lifted its trade embargo, and in 1995, full diplomatic relations were restored. A bilateral trade agreement between the U.S. and Vietnam was signed in July 2000. In a touching gesture of reconciliation, the U.S. and Vietnam agreed to work together on cleaning up the toxic Agent Orange left behind from the Vietnam War; the joint operation began in 2011.
During the last decade, signs of economic improvement have continued—in 2005 the Vietnamese government reported that exports such as rice, coffee, rubber, and handicrafts continued to outsell expectations. And just a few years later, in June 2012, the BBC reported that Vietnam had officially surpassed Brazil as the world’s largest exporter of coffee.
52 LVC2017 07/13/2017 RESOURCES
Suggested Readings
General Southeast Asia A Traveller’s History of Southeast Asia by J.M. Barwise and Nicholas J. White (History) As compact history of a diverse region, this book packs a wealth of information into its well-written and well-organized pages. (And yes, the title has two “L”s; the series is British).
The River’s Tale, A Year on the Mekong by Edward Gargan (Travel Narrative) Describes in beautiful detail a year spend on the Mekong River during a 3,000-mile journey from its source in China through Tibet, Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam.
What the Buddha Taught by Walpola Sri Rahula (Religion) A useful overview of Buddhism as it is practiced in Southeast Asia by an internationally recognized authority who just happens to also be a Buddhist monk.
Burma Finding George Orwell in Burma by Emma Larkin (Travel Narrative) A journalist travels the country in search of another young writer—the brilliant George Orwell, author of Animal Farm and 1984—who lived in Burma during the 1920s. If you enjoy this book, or just like Orwell in general, you might also want to look for his first novel, Burmese Days. It was loosely based on his experiences as a police officer in the Indian Imperial Police when Burma was an adjunct of British India.
Flame Tree, A Novel of Modern Burma by Keith Dahlberg (Literature) George, a quiet and unassuming teacher in Burma, finds himself mediating between two warring factions—a dictator and a group of rebel—in an attempt to save his wife, who is being held hostage.
Freedom from Fear by Aung San Suu Kyi (Memoir/Political Commentary) A collection of speeches, letters, and essays from Aung San Suu Kyi, a human rights activist and winner of the 1991 Nobel Peace Prize who was repeatedly arrested by the Burmese government for her work. If you are interested in Ms. Kyi, a good biography of her remarkable life is The Lady: Aung San Suu Kyi by Barbara Victor.
Quartered Safe Out Here: A Harrowing Tale of World War II by George MacDonald Fraser (Memoir) An exciting and action-packed memoir about the author’s experiences in Burma during the final year of World War II as a 19-year-old private.
Cambodia A History of Cambodia by David Chandler (History) A clear and succinct account of modern Cambodia that starts in 1953 and extends to the rise and fall of the Khmer Rouge, the death of the noxious Pol Pot in the late 1990s, and the return of peace to this lovely land.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 53 First They Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers by Loung Ung (Memoir) A personal account of Ung’s experiences throughout the Khmer Rouge years as a survivor of the Pol Pot regime.
Golden Bones, An Extraordinary Journey from Hell in Cambodia to a New Life in America by Sichan Siv (Memoir) Deputy Ambassador to the UN during the Bush administration, Siv looks back on a remarkable life, from his privileged childhood in Pochentong to the murderous reign of Pol Pot, his escape from a work camp to freedom and, eventually, life in America.
Many Many Many Gods of Hinduism by Swami Achuthananda or Hinduism: A Very Short Introduction by Kim Knott (Religion) Although the primary focus of these books is on Indian Hinduism, some previous travelers felt that knowing about the Hindu religion is helpful to put the Angkor temples in context.
Odyssey Guide Angkor, Cambodia’s Wondrous Khmer Temples by Dawn Rooney Considered by many as the indispensable guide to Khmer culture and history.
Laos The Coroner’s Lunch by Colin Cotterill (Mysteries) The first in an award-winning mystery series set in Laos featuring Dr. Siri Paiboun as the detective.
The Spirit Catches You and You Fall Down by Anne Fadiman (Culture/Medicine) A sympathetic look at the culture clash between the Hmong parents of Lia, a child with epilepsy, and her American doctors.
Thailand Anna and the King of Siam by Margaret Landon (Biography) Some say the tale is more fanciful than true, but it certainly has endured. This is the classic account of a governess in mid-19th century Siam that inspired the musical, The King and I.
Bangkok 8, A Novel by John Burdett (Mystery) Reminiscent of a film noir—gritty, suspenseful, and sometimes darkly funny—this book explores the underside of Thailand’s capital through a series of mysterious deaths by snakebite. The detective, who is a member of the Royal Thai police, also stars in sequels like: Bangkok Tattoo and Bangkok Haunts.
Bangkok, A Cultural History by Maryvelma O’Neil (History) Art historian O’Neil’s scholarly book details the city’s art, history, royal ceremony, and tradition in such depth that it is sometimes used as a college textbook, despite coming in at less than 300 pages.
Sightseeing by Rattawut Lapcharoensap (Short Stories) The author’s debut work is a collection of short stories set in present-day Thailand. Inspired in part by Lapcharoensap own Thai- American heritage; critically well received.
The Food of Thailand: A Journey for Food Lovers edited by Kay Halsey (Food) A well-researched collection of Thai recipes from different regions along with special sections on cooking techniques and presentation that are uniquely Thai.
54 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Traveler’s Tales Thailand edited by Larry Habegger and James O’Reilly (Culture) A collection of useful and memorable stories that show a spectrum of experiences to be had (or to be avoided) in Thailand. The authors come from many walks of life: some are teachers, writers, scientists—all of them have tales to tell that will help to deepen and enrich your experience in Thailand.
Vietnam A Bright Shining Lie by Neil Sheehan (History/Memoir) This book details the Vietnam War through one of the big controversies—a clandestine briefing of the press by Lt. Col. John Paul Vann, who strongly disagreed with his superiors on the direction the war was taking and America’s chances of winning.
Catfish and Mandala by Andrew X. Pham (Memoir/Travel Narrative) A Vietnamese-American decides to revisit the land of his birth and some painful memories. This touching book balances the story of the author’s escape from Vietnam in 1977 and his subsequent return about 20 years later to tour by bicycle.
Communion: A Culinary Journey Through Vietnam by Kim Fay (Food). Part cookbook and part travelogue, this book charts the return of Fay to Vietnam for a culinary safari after a ten-year absence. Beautiful, bold photographs and stories about the chefs accompany authentic recipes.
Dispatches by Michael Herr (Journalism) First published in 1977, when Herr was a journalist for Esquire Magazine, this collection of firsthand reporting has been compared to a war documentary in print.
Dumb Luck, A Novel by Trong Phung Vu (Literature) Once banned, the works of Vietnamese satirist Trong Phung Vu are now seen as masterpieces that were years ahead of their time. This sarcastic and comedic rags-to-riches story set in Hanoi is particularly popular.
Fire in the Lake by Frances FitzGerald (History) FitzGerald, a staff writer at the New Yorker was on assignment in Vietnam when she became interested in the impact of America’s participation in the Vietnam War. The resulting book won both the Pulitzer Prize and National Book Award in 1973, and is still essential reading more than 30 years later.
The Lover by Marguerite Duras (Literature) The bittersweet story of a doomed romance between a French teenager and an older Chinese man set in 1930s French Indochina (Vietnam). The novel contains some racy scenes and frank language, but was critically well-received and won France’s Prix Goncourt for literature.
Last Night I Dreamed of Peace by Dang Thuy Tram (Diary) As a young doctor working for the North Vietnamese Army, Dang Thuy Tram kept a diary of her experiences until her death at age 27. Found by an American soldier, the diary was returned to her family and published for the first time almost 30 years later.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 55 Matterhorn by Karl Marlantes (Literature) This debut novel is about a company of Marines who build, abandon, and retake an outpost on a remote hilltop in Vietnam. The author, a highly decorated Vietnam veteran, reportedly spent 30 years writing this book about the folly of war. He succeeded in coming up with one of the most profound and devastating novels ever to be written about Vietnam—or any war.
Perfect Spy by Larry Berman (Biography) Follows the intricate double life of Communist spy Pham Xuan An, who passed American military secrets to North Vietnam while undercover as a reporter for Time Magazine in California.
The Quiet American by Graham Greene (Literature) Quite possibly the most famous novel set in Vietnam, and a classic love triangle too. A knowing British war correspondent and a hopeful American are caught up in both revolutionary politics and whirlwind romance in 1950s Saigon. Unfortunately, they both fall for the same Vietnamese woman.
The Sacred Willow, Four Generations in the Life of a Vietnamese Family by Duong Van Mai Elliott (Biography/Memoir) A family history following four generations that also reveals the country’s history over the last 100 years. It’s a rich, marvelously detailed family saga.
The Sorrow of War by Bao Ninh (Literature) The fictionalized account of the author’s own experiences as a soldier for North Vietnam, this novel became a best-seller in Vietnam despite having been banned by the government (because it does not portray the war as heroic). The story can be tricky to keep up with—the time period jumps around, sometimes without warning—but the emotional honesty strikes a cord.
The Sympathizer by Viet Thanh Nguyen (Fiction) The taunt story of a double agent who secretly sympathizes with the Communist forces during the fall of the South Vietnamese government in 1975. Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Fiction.
The Things They Carried by Tim O’Brien (Literature) Like The Sorrow of War, this is a fictionalized account of the author’s own wartime experiences, but from the American point of view, and told as a series of short stories. It was Pulitzer Prize finalist when it was first published in 1990.
Vietnam, Now: A Soldier Returns by David Lamb (Memoir/Travel Narrative) For a reporter who once described Vietnam as “a war, not a country”, returning nearly 30 years after the war’s end as the LA Times bureau chief was a surprise. But Lamb puts his return to good use, creating a book that deftly interweaves the stories of “then” and “now”.
When Heaven and Earth Changed Places by Le Ly Hayslip (Memoir) The true-life story of a Vietnamese girl forced into the war (on both sides), where she faced constant danger, near- starvation, and torture. A riveting, emotional, and brutally honest look at what it takes to survive a war. The sequel, Child of War, Woman of Peace describes the author’s life in America after the war’s end.
56 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Suggested Movies
Burma Never So Few (1959, Drama) When American OSS operatives are sent to train local Burmese fighters against the Japanese during WWII, they didn’t expect the lack of support from their commanders, the overwhelming odds against them, or the interference of murderous Chinese rebels. Can just a few soldiers really make a difference?
The Lady (2011, Foreign/Biopic) A romantic tribute to the Burmese leader Aung San Suu Kyi, this biopic focuses on her relationship with her husband as much as on her political work. The cast and crew received high praise for authenticity, especially Michelle Yeoh, who reportedly learned Burmese to play the lead role. In English and Burmese.
Cambodia City of Ghosts (2002, Drama) A con man looking for his payout, his criminal mentor, a trustworthy cyclo driver, and a pretty NGO worker are just some of the people that inhabit this increasingly dangerous story, which is mostly set in Cambodia. Filmed on location in Phnom Penh and at a pre-Angkor temple.
The Killing Fields (1984, Drama) Based on the work of New York Times reporter Sydney Schanberg (Waterston) and his translator Dith Pran (Ngor), this war drama explores the tragic rise of the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia.
Laos Rescue Dawn (2006, Drama) The harrowing based-on-true-life story of an American fighter pilot shot down over Laos during the 1960s and his subsequent escape from his captors.
Thailand In the Mood for Love (2001, Foreign) Although this story of two spurned spouses finding comfort in each other is set in Hong Kong of the 1960s, most of the exteriors and street scenes are actually Bangkok, and the final sequence was filmed in Cambodia’s Angkor Wat complex. In Cantonese with subtitles.
The Beach (2000, Drama) An American backpacker in Thailand searches for an idyllic secret beach community described by a fellow traveler. But if and when he finds it, will it be a paradise or a purgatory?
The Bridge on the River Kwai (1957, Classic) The dramatic story of the dangerous construction of a railway bridge by British POWs under the control of the Japanese army during WWII.
The Impossible (2012, Drama) A family on vacation in Thailand struggles to first survive and then find each other in the immediate aftermath of the 2004 tsunami.
07/13/2017 LVC2017 57 The King and I (1956, Musical) A colorful and fun production of the Rodgers and Hammerstein musical that is loosely based on the life of Anna Leonowens, the British governess to the King of Siam (modern-day Thailand). The same story also inspired two other (non-musical) movies: Anna and the King of Siam starring Irene Dunne and Rex Harrison (1946) and Anna and the King starring Jodie Foster and Chow Yun-Fat (1999).
Vietnam Apocalypse Now (1979, Drama) Set in the midst of the Vietnam War, this intense drama follows a special ops soldier on a dangerous mission. The film is actually an adaptation of Joseph Conrad’s book, Heart of Darkness.
Good Morning Vietnam (1987, Comedy) While the irreverent humor of Armed Forces Radio Service host Adrian Cronauer (Williams) amuses the troops stuck in Vietnam, he clashes with the Army brass who try to censor his show.
Indochine (1992, Foreign) When a well-to-do French plantation owner and her adopted Vietnamese daughter both fall for the same naval officer, their lives get swept up in the burgeoning nationalist movement. Set in French Indochina of the 1930s; in French with subtitles.
MASH (1970, Drama/Comedy) A group of U.S. Army doctors fight disease, war, and military insanity in Southeast Asia. Although the action is meant to be the Korean conflict, it was widely understood to be a comment on the Vietnam War. The darkly comedic tone of the movie was so popular that it was developed into a long-running TV series, M*A*S*H.
Red Dust (1932, Classic) Set on a rubber plantation in French Indochina, this film is all about desire and romantic intrigue: Although initially attracted to a tough and brassy beauty (Harlow) plantation foreman Gable soon falls instead for the classy wife of an employee (Astor). Surprisingly, the film includes some fairly accurate depictions of rubber production and the challenges of a remote jungle plantation (monsoons and malaria, just to name two).
The Quiet American (1958, Classic) A love triangle between a British journalist, a young Vietnamese woman, and a U.S. official, based on the novel by the same name. The 2002 remake starring Michael Caine and Brendan Fraser puts more emphasis on the intrigue and seedy side of Saigon in the 1950s, but is also quite good.
58 LVC2017 07/13/2017 Useful Websites
Overseas Adventure Travel Forum (tips World Weather from previous travelers) www.intellicast.com www.oattravel.com/forum www.weather.com www.wunderground.com Overseas Adventure Travel Store www.oatshop.com Basic Travel Phrases (80 languages) www.travlang.com/languages International Health Information/CDC (Centers for Disease Control) Packing Tips http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel www.travelite.org
Electricity & Plugs U.S. Customs & Border Protection www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/ www.cbp.gov/travel plugs-and-sockets Transportation Security Administration Foreign Exchange Rates (TSA) www.xe.com/currencyconverter www.tsa.gov www.oanda.com/converter/classic National Passport Information Center ATM Locators www.travel.state.gov www.mastercard.com/atm Holidays Worldwide www.visa.com/atmlocator www.timeanddate.com/holidays
07/13/2017 LVC2017 59 For information regarding your existing reservation: Visit www.oattravel.com/myaccount or call us toll-free at 1-800-221-0814