Australia’s other square riggers

Crew journal of the James Craig July  Knotty issues

To call your self a sailor Morrin’s knotting course at the Maritime Well worth checking out especially their and/or top man, you should be able to tie Museum. Pineapple knots fancy knots. Three inexpensive, Australian printed, There are some excellent sources on the International Guild of Knot Tyers owned, and authored books are recom- internet. I recommend:- mended. They are available from Rams http://www.igkt.net/ Skull Press Written and illustrated by Ron Knot Heads World Wide www.khww. Edwards. net/news.php A great source, but it does cost $27.00 Go to www.ramsskullpress.com, to join. Can be paid by Visa. Marlinespikeknotworks. Turks Heads. Probably the easiest un- derstood of all the books on this subject http://groups.yahoo.com/ Boatswain Mate Knot Page that I have come across. . group/Marlinspikeknotworks/ http://www.geocities.com/dgtlcwby/ Knots for Beachcombers and Mariners. 32 pages with 238 drawings This site also covers leather knotting.

Knots Useful and Ornamental . 36 pages You can join both of these associations with 248 drawings. on the internet at no cost. BOY’S MANUAL OF SEAMANSHIP AND GUNNER 1871 Cost $12.00 each and this includes Alaskan Museum of Fancy knots postage. www.knotical-arts.com/ This book is well worth browsing as it I also recommend that you sign up for ZDVZULWWHQDERXWWKHWLPHWKH&UDLJ¿UVW went to sea

www.pbenyon.plus.com/B_S_M/Con- Full & By tents.html Knots from the Manual The crew journal of the barque James Craig www.pbenyon.plus.com/B_S_M/ Third_Instruction_II.html KWWSZZZDXVWUDOLDQKHULWDJHÀHHWFRPDX-&UDLJ JCraig.html Peter Davey

Compiled by Peter Davey Tall calendar [email protected] www.tallshipsinternational.net/ Photos by Peter Davey, Jeffrey Luke, Mary Sowa, Mike Richter, John Spiers

Production by John Spiers

All crew and others associated with the James Craig are very welcome to submit material.

The opinions expressed in this journal may not necessarily be the viewpoint of the Sydney Mari- time Museum, the Sydney Heritage Fleet or the FUHZRIWKH-DPHV&UDLJRULWVRI¿FHUV

2 JULY 2007 FULL & BY Back to basics

et’s get back to the basics for the duties took the James Craig to sea, the position Lof the Chief mate, Second mate and The Second Mate of “Navigator’s Yeoman” was instigated. Third mate as they were, when our Barque It was a common saying among seamen There is no such job description in any ¿UVWZHQWWRVHD that “a man does not get his hands out of square rig manuals, nor do any other the tar bucket by becoming second mate.”# square riggers carry this position. This From The Seaman’s Friend, (Richard He is expected to work. UDWHLVSHFXOLDUWRWKH¿JKWLQJQDYLHVDQG Henry Dana, 1879. He works like a common seaman ex- his duties are:- In my opinion this is the book we should cept that he does not take part in some Routine maintenance on navigational be following with “Square Rig Seaman- inferior services, such as slushing down equipment, Correcting charts, Hydro- ” being the guide for today’s extra the masts or sweeping decks etc. Under graphical stores. requirements. normal circumstances, he goes aloft to The position was introduced by an ex furl topsails and courses and when aloft, 5$1RI¿FHUWROLJKWHQWKHRQHURXVGXWLHV The Chief Mate takes the bunt. of the quarter deck staff. Let’s get back (This is the term used when the James #”The Seaman’s Friend” to basics and hand his duties back to the &UDLJ¿UVWZHQWWRVHDQRW)LUVW0DWH DSSURSULDWHTXDUWHUGHFNRI¿FHUV,IWKH\ When working the ship, when all hands Third Mate. ¿QGWKDWWKH\FDQQRW¿WWKHVHGXWLHVLQZK\ are called and the master is on deck, the He goes aloft with the watch to furl not carry a third mate (a third mate does chief mate’s place is on the forecastle, and, he is not expected to handle the light QRWQHHGWREHIXOO\TXDOL¿HG WRUHOLHYHWKH where, under the general direction of the sails. onerous duties on the quarter deck. master, who never need leave the quarter- From Square Rig Seamanship (Captain deck, where he commands the forward part R M Willoughby FNI dated 1997 - Terms of endearment - Whilst training of the vessel, and is the organ of commu- Second Mate - Navigational systems, on the barque Star of India and to a lesser nication with the men aloft. charts, clocks, books and tables, com- extent whilst on the Barque , The chief mate is not required to work pass. the Mates were addressed, and addressed with his hands like the second mate and During manoeuvring he is normally one another, as Mr.….. the seamen, although, of course, he lets stationed at the main mast. In charge of This is as per “The Seaman’s Friend” go and belays rope and occasionally pulls launching and recovery. and “Square Rig Seamanship” and, to me, and hauls with the men when working 7KLUG0DWH ZKHQFDUULHG &RPPXQL- sounds professional, and is as per the era ship. Normally his time and attention are FDWLRQVRI¿FHU7KLVLQFOXGHVUDGLRÀDJV ZKHQRXUEDUTXH¿UVWZHQWWRVHD,UHFRP- VXI¿FLHQWO\WDNHQXSZLWKVXSHULQWHQGLQJ signal lamps, weather forecasts. mend that the Craig adopt these terms. and giving orders. 1DYLJDWRU¶V

FULL & BY JULY 2007 3 OTHER SQUARE RIGGERS -

Alma Doepel

lma Doepel was built in Bellingen NSW in 1903 and named after the owner’s daughter and as a three Amasted made over 560 crossings of the notorious Bass Strait and is now based in Port Macquarie and is well worth a visit. For further information go to http://au.geocities.com/bellejazz_alma/Alma.html

During Saanen’s recent trip to Port Macquarie, Peter Davey spent a night aboard the Alma Doepel. Re- calling that I had sailed on her for a couple of years, Peter asked me if I could give him some photos of her under sail and write an article about sailing on her. Sailing on the Alma Doepel, was similar to the James Craig in so many ways. Like the James Craig, the Alma Doepel did her share of charters, day sails and weekend sail trips where people could experience living aboard a . However her primary purpose was to take youth on nine-day sailing voyages, and it is this aspect that I have chosen to write about, as it was quite different to anything I have experienced on the James Craig. I joined the Alma Doepel in the last two years of her life as a sail-training vessel. After an eager and rapid apprenticeship crewing on day-sails and weekend trips, I was lucky enough to be chosen as one of six leading hands on what was to become her last nine-day training voyage ~ Voyage 113. At the one time, both poignant and thrilling; it was an exhilarating taste of a sailing life that was about to end. But for now, let your imagination roam as I give you glimpses of the marvellous voyage-life aboard a youth sail-training vessel…

4 JULY 2007 FULL & BY

‘SHOT DOWN…’ BANG! CLATTER! ‘...IN A BLAZE OF GLORY…’ CLANG! CLANG! JANGLE!

KDW LQFDVH\RXGLGQ¶WKHDULW ZDV Twake-up call on a nine-day voyage— blaring rock music on the ship’s emergency loudspeaker system and the loud metallic clanging of tin pot lids being banged to- gether like cymbals, by the ever-jubilant leading hands. Grinning, we would watch the trainees sleepily roll out of the 2-tiered canvas slings ranged along the ship’s sides. The trainees mumbled vaguely mutinous thoughts as they peeled off warm sleepwear, to stand, nervous and shivering, in swimsuits and board-shorts, up on deck. A brief aerobics session led by which- ever leading hand felt up to it and then the end of our grinning session ~ as it was all overboard, leading hands and trainees alike, for the morning wash. Whilst the Alma Doepel might have had sleeping berths for up to 36 trainees and 10 or so crew, she certainly didn’t have enough water to shower them, so each morning it was a jump off the top of the capping rail, (which seemed so perilously high early RQDFROGPRUQLQJ LQWR3RUW3KLOOLS%D\ (Unless of course you were one of the hapless trainees who refused to go over for us leading hands, for we had a whole trainees, undoing and bundling gasket- the side, and as an undesirable alternative crew of trainees to get motivated, and we lines by feel as we watched the sunrise over was subjected to a bucket of cold water, knew what else had to be done before any Port Phillip Bay, I wouldn’t have swapped poured with agonising slowness, by one of of us would eat. it for the world! the mates ~ a mistake that a trainee never %ULHÀ\GRZQEHORZZHZRXOGYLJRU- Job done, a last few lingering glances at PDGHWZLFH  ously towel ourselves dry and crawl into the gentle sun-glinted water, and then trail- As we stood hesitating on the capping our already salt-stiffened clothing, then ing down the , and into the steamy rail, the mates assured us that the water jump back up on deck before the brightest warmth of the crowded saloon. wasn’t cold—the ship’s ‘trusty’ thermom- of trainees. And when they appeared, we’d Unless of course, you were the luckless eter always told us (summer and winter VWUDSWKH¿UVWGR]HQRUVRXSLQKDUQHVVHV trainee who’d forgotten to put their mark DOLNH WKDWWKHZDWHUWHPSHUDWXUHZDV and willingly run up the windward shrouds somewhere in the night-watch book. The degrees. A breathtaking plunge, blindly into the airy loftiness of the upper and mates were scrupulously vigilant on this thrashing around in the momentarily lower topsail yards to loosen some sails point, and never failed to identify a perpe- crowded water, to get back as quickly as (whilst the others would trawl the decks trator each morning. Then as leading hand, possible to the ship’s side. ZLWKGHFNEURRPVDQG¿UHKRVH  you had to take the unfortunate individual Hands grasping and feet falling through If you are anything like me, your arms down the tiny for’ard hatch, and into the the holes in the cargo net slung over the and legs would be weak and trembling with chain locker, to balance precarious toe- side for us to scramble up; we’d stand hunger (and the delicious smells from the holds on the ship’s side, bracing yourself shivering on deck in the freezing wind for JDOOH\ZRXOGQ¶WEHKHOSLQJ %XWEHLQJXS in the tiny space, to have two hands free a moment— but only a lightning moment there with awestruck but ever-exuberant WRÀDNHWKHVOLWKHU\PXGVODWKHUHGDQFKRU

6 JULY 2007 FULL & BY cally fall into line along the halyard, in response to the sail-master’s call ‘Stand by to set the mainsail.’ They’d learn to bend down and coil up the lines afterwards, rather than leaving it for ‘someone’ else to do. They’d learnt their positions of ‘sweating’ and ‘tailing’ the braces each time the ship changed course. Although it still came more natu- rally to the trainees to immediately lapse back into conversation and teasing each other, they were beginning to learn to keep half an ear out for the sail-master’s calls. Day 2’s lectures might be about safety procedures, preparing for safety drills later in the voyage. Evening might be spent watching the rounding of Cape Horn on the tiny static crackling television set in the VDORRQDQGOLVWHQLQJWRWKHWHDWRZHO¿JKWV chain by hand, as it was brought in. WKHJURXSG\QDPLFVDQG¿QGLQJWKHLURZQ of this day’s crew washing up. On odd days of kindness, the mates place in it. We would interrupt their joking Day three would see the trainees would organise a crew-member to hose and conversations by thrusting unknown crammed into benches in the saloon, lis- down the chain before it came through the ropes into their hands, telling them to ‘haul WHQLQJWRWKHFDSWDLQDQG¿UVWPDWHJLYLQJ hawse-pipe, but it never seemed to make away, avast, ease up, hold fast…’ ~ a whole lectures on procedures for tacking ship. PXFKGLIIHUHQFHWRWKHMRERIÀDNLQJWKH range of unfamiliar orders. Meanwhile us leading hands would loll anchor-chain. It was always a spattering, We’d vaguely listen to more bravado about in the sunshine on deck, in rare mud-stained job. As some consolation, and jokes about the unknown orders, moments of idleness, keeping a relaxed that trainee would have the honour of FDPRXÀDJLQJWKHWUDLQHHV¶LJQRUDQFHRIDOO eye on the sails, as we made Turks head leaving their mark on the ship by adding the frantic activity; and they’d be vaguely EUDFHOHWV\DUQHGRU¿JXUHGRXWKRZWR their muddy handprint to the veritable aware of sails appearing out of nowhere; long-splice rope. gallery of handprints along the roof of the or of piles of rope landing on the deck; These were quiet times, with only 4 or chain-locker. and of being shown how to coil the lines, so of us on deck, and we could pretend the Then, (after passing on the mischievous DJDLQ  ship was all ours. We knew that once the tip of which crew-member would most lecture-drowsed trainees emerged, it would likely fall for an offer of a muddy hand- be all systems to with tacking-practice ~ VKDNH LWZRXOGEHEDFNXSRQGHFNWR where we’d chart a contorted zigzag course scrub down in a bucket of sea-water, and across the bay, as the trainees were scuttled then into the warm, redolent atmosphere of from one side of the ship to the other, haul- the crowded saloon, quietly slipping onto LQJLQWKHPL]]HQOHWWLQJÀ\WKHMLEVKHHWV the end of an already crammed bench, to watching the massive fore and main booms tuck into breakfast—and let me tell you, ease themselves over as the ship heeled on a voyage it would be a breakfast to over onto the other tack. die for! Day two we’d channel the trainees’ end- Late afternoon after we anchored, might After breakfast, the morning’s activi- less energy, aloft, introducing them to the EHVSHQWLQJLYLQJWKHWUDLQHHVWXUQVDW¿ULQJ ties would depend on what day we were higher realms. This time the sky-larking XSWKHSUHGLFWDEO\UHVLVWDQW¿UHKRVHPRWRU XSWRLQWKHYR\DJH2QWKH¿UVWGD\WKHUH and joking amongst the trainees, would be A similar day might be spent on anchoring would usually be a general shake-down; even more vocal, but this time we knew it procedures, general sailing, and mastering of trainees getting used to the layout of the ZDVPDLQO\WRFDPRXÀDJHIHDUVRIZRUN- WKH¿QHDUWVRIIXUOLQJVDLO ship and being immediately absorbed into ing at such heights and then irrepressible The yards and cross-trees would be the on-deck cycle of duties. jubilation at conquering this fear. peopled by irrepressible teenagers, lean- We had less on-watch duties than the We’d quietly smile to ourselves as ing over yards to furl the square sails, or James Craig. Deck-crew went through an we observed tell-tale white knuckles on teetering out around the lumpy bundles of on-watch cycle that began with bow-watch, jack-stays and trembling foot-ropes, ac- the gaff-topsails—expletives of a sail to then went to helming, and ended with ‘go- companying some of the most vociferous furl—which involved having to haul both SKHU¶ZKRUDQPHVVDJHVIRUWKHRI¿FHURQ trainees. Up aloft, as the trainees gained VKHHWEORFNV DVELJDVP\KDQG DQGDYDVW watch. And of course the trainees would familiarity in this higher working space, amount of sail canvas, to toggle off at an be introduced to the art of coiling, which we’d take the chance to introduce them to arm’s reach above your head. (Part of the they would be given endless opportunities the arts of ungasketing sails, or perhaps UHDVRQZK\,¶YHQHYHUÀLQFKHGDWIXUOLQJ to practice. point out the function of bunt-lines, clew- WKH-DPHV&UDLJ¶VVWD\VDLOV  At this stage, it was very much us lead- lines etc. Or they might be lucky enough to have ing hands working the ship, with the slight- Down on deck, the ship would follow their feet dangling over the wave-tops as ly awed but ever-lively trainees providing a pre-determined course as the trainees they learnt to muscle the jibs into perfectly hand and muscle power, but their attention began unravel the maze of lines all around tapering broom-handle thin furls. By the would be entirely focused on exploring them. They’d quickly learn to automati- time the shroud-lights were brightly lit, it

FULL & BY JULY 2007 7 usually only took a few team-relay type games up on deck, before the trainees would tumble tiredly into their canvas slings for a night’s sleep that would always be broken with an hour of anchor watch. Mid-voyage would be a complete break from routine, with a breezy day spent at anchor off the shores of Blairgowrie, watching the trainees cart wheeling swal- low-dingies over the choppy waters, with us leading hands zooming around in the work-boats and rubber dingy to pluck them out of the water, right their and put them back in for another joyride. Back on board, there’d be wild shouts and splashing as our rapturous trainees swung their endless energy in jumping off the Tarzan line hanging from the end of the course-yard. Night-time antics might this night be centred on auctions of trainee articles OHIWO\LQJDURXQGXQWLGLO\²WKH RSWLRQDO  auction price being the consumption of unmentionable concoctions from the gal- ley—as certain harsher aspects of ship- board discipline were touched on, albeit in a comedic way. Day six our trainees who would by now the trainees struggling to concentrate as the island, exploring tunnels, tracks and be inured into shipboard life– being obe- they glanced at the small port-holes of grassy slopes until the gathering dusk when diently up on deck for 6 am aerobics and sunshine, or mentally predicted what ma- they’d wearily straggle back down to the morning dip, was as sleepily automatic as noeuvre the ship might be doing, from the workboats. As the night’s laden heaviness brushing your teeth. And it was no longer a dull thud of sheet-blocks on deck. bore down on them, the trainees would be routine viewed with fear and dread—it was Afternoon might be spent with half the told that the workboats were all theirs to just accepted as a normal part of the day, trainees out in the bright orange work- navigate back to the ship. and anyway, there was something bracing boats learning to steer the cumbersome Eye-brows would arch as the trainees’ and invigorating about it anyway! vessels up against the ship’s hull; while exhaustion would be temporarily lifted by %\QRZWKHDQFKRUÀDNHUPLJKWEH the other half were employed in some a mixture of eye-shining marvelling and the trainee with the untidiest writing in simple shipboard maintenance like oiling slightly uncertain searching for direction. the night-watch-book, kept on the messy down the capping rail with linseed oil. By Within seconds the trainees would launch work-desk of engineer’s things in the small late afternoon, with the ship tidied away, into action, and looking at the bewildering day-cabin where we spent the idle minutes there would be the unexpected captain’s blaze of lights off the Mornington coast, the of our hour-long anchor-watches. That announcement of an evening trip in the trainees would commence with inexhaust- little exercise book with the nightly table workboats to a small muddy island off the LEOHFRQ¿GHQFH:HDULQHVVUHPRYHGWKH of anchor-watch times, followed by pages Mornington Peninsula. unexpected command, would revive new- of mirthful messages, midnight stories, IRXQGVN\ODUNLQJMRNLQJDQGFRQ¿GHQFH drawings etc. which no amount of night-time darkness Now it only needed a leading hand to could dim. Waves would lap against the open the harness box lid, or begin dragging ship’s hull in the darkness, and on this night RXWWKH¿UHKRVHPRWRUDQGDZLOOLQJJURXS it was raining. of trainees would help to drag it, or put out &RQ¿GHQFHJUDGXDOO\EHJDQWRGLPDV a hand for a harness, or go and retrieve the the maze of lights gradually came upon us, deck-brooms. Inured to shipboard life they none of which were revealing themselves might be, but inured to lack of sleep they Although the island was only peopled as recognizable ship lights. The mate and would not be. by sea-birds and seals, the trainees would leading hand aboard, had taken the vow By now we’d well and truly have awak- buzz with feverish excitement as if it held of either maintaining silence or answering ened and whetted our trainee’s thirst for the dazzling cinemas and amusement parks. trainee questions with nonsense answers, exhilarating outdoor activities of sailing; 36 trainees and a couple leading hands and so could only watch as the trainees ar- the thrill of climbing, the feeling of power mates would be crammed into the 2 work- gued, sulked, rallied against us, came up with your hands on the wheel, the joy and boats, sensibly (but the trainees thought with ideas, argued some more, squashed camaraderie of team-work in hauling the XQQHFHVVDULO\ GHFNHGRXWLQZHWZHDWKHU ideas, mutinied, sat in rain-soaked silence; lines, the cool taste of the breeze as you gear and life-jackets. miraculously found a plastic water-tight handled the jib-sheets...today’s lecture on Crunching onto the beach of the island, barrel amongst the jumble of legs; eagerly navigation, in the cramped benches of the the trainees would get rid of all their land- retrieved torch, chart, compass, two-way saloon—was particularly unpopular, with bound energy by running madly all over radio; argued some more, radioed an

8 JULY 2007 FULL & BY equally unhelpful ship’s crew; ripped each the lumpy sail-bundle, proffering words of the responsibility and demands of running other and their soggy navigation chart to praise and humorous encouragement. a ship. By now they had also fervently shreds, as the sodden hours dripped by... Each trainee had found their place, their come to understand the reverence we held until gradually the dominant trainees had areas of strength and interest, and each for the beautiful old ~ the Alma argued their rebellion into exhaustion and NQHZH[DFWO\KRZWKH\¿WWHGDQGZKDWWKHLU Doepel ~ that they were on. Even the idea quiet leadership began to emerge from a VSHFL¿FUROHVZHUHLQGLIIHULQJVLWXDWLRQV of having command was no new concept, muted corner of the workboat. on the ship. It was an alert, active, tightly after the Mud Island adventure. Gradually responding to this unexpected HI¿FLHQWFUHZWKDW\RXQRZVDZ )RUXVOHDGLQJKDQGVLWZDVDWLPHWR¿QG spark, the trainees began to retrieve re- At sunrise on the last day—the trainees a good book, or simply sit back and watch, membered fragments of the navigation would be standing, nervously murmuring what our trainees had changed and grown lectures that they wished they’d paid better to each other and shivering, in swimsuits into ~ to see how they so marvellously attention to...and eventually brought their and board-shorts, up on deck, that you’d grew into the roles they chose for each drenched workboat alongside the cosy EHIRUJLYHQIRUWKLQNLQJLWZDVWKH¿UVWGD\ other. And they chose their own captain, warm lights of the ship to tumble aboard again. Only this time the trainees weren’t QDYLJDWRUVDLOPDVWHUDQGRI¿FHUVQROHVV for the recompense of hot-chocolate and nervous about the morning wash; but nerv- wisely than we would have, because by the crew that had remained on board cover- RXVDWEHLQJWKH¿UVWWRPDNHWKDWH[SORVLYH now they knew each other’s strengths and ing anchor-watch for that night. splash which really seemed to signify the weaknesses thoroughly. The seventh day would be a mirror of beginning of the last day. Who would have With that, and with us leading hands and the third, with lectures on wearing ship, and thought they’d ever be wistful about this VKLS¶VRI¿FHUVVWHSSLQJEDFNLQWRDPHUHVX- then a much neater zig-zag of gybes across morning ritual? pervisory role, the trainees would proudly the bay. By now we might have trainees Then some trainee would quit the mut- sail the ship back across our great ocean shadowing the sail-master, and on deck you tering and with one joyful shout, would playground, while we would proudly watch could hardly see the difference between take a running jump in from off the saloon KRZHI¿FLHQWO\DQGFRKHVLYHO\WKH\¶GGRLW leading hands and trainees. roof, and then they’d all be in, for a fren- By now we knew some would be back as We had a resourceful band of crew, crew; some never would. But whether they ever alert to deck commands. Lines returned or not, their voyage would forever barely touched the deck before they were be part of the colourful myriad tapestry whipped up into a coil. A trainee man- of this graceful ship’s life—of which this ning the jib-sheets, on seeing the jib-luff story is but one thread. ÀDSSLQJPLJKWORRNGRZQDIWWRVHHZKDW And wherever they went in life, they the helmsman was doing. And the trainee would take so many valuable general on the helm would be squinting up at the skills for working and for life: leadership, ÀXWWHULQJHGJHRIWKHXSSHUWRSVDLODVVKH zied and much longer than usual morning practical initiative, thinking and anticipat- learnt to steer the ship full and by. wash. After towelling dry, a quieter neater ing, self-reliance, team-work, inter-de- As leading hands, we might draw im- group of wet-haired trainees would cluster pendence, compassion, achieving beyond promptu chalk diagrams on the deck to on the main deck, adopting positions of ZKDWWKH\¶GWKRXJKWSRVVLEOHÀH[LELOLW\ answer a trainee’s question about crooked preference they’d found during their time personal resilience, perseverance, respect, yards; or we might pause for a moment on on the ship ~ some sitting on the harness reverence, humour, and an appreciation a yard to gaze over the sun-dazzled ocean ER[VRPHOHDQLQJRQWKHPDLQPDVW¿IH of the sheer beauty of so cleanly harness- and idly swap day-dreams with the trainee rail, some resting back against the capping ing one of the earth’s greatest renewable up there with us. Evening might be a sod’s rail ~ listening to some of the leading hands energy sources—the wind - to power the RSHUD VLPLODUWRWKH&UDLJ¶V DQGZH¶G tell of how they’d come to join the ship. ship. collectively laugh at how well we’d come And then the trainees left us leading hands And this is where we might leave them, to know each other’s individual quirks and out on deck, while they trooped into the as they sail their ship...our ship...the Alma characteristics. saloon with the captain, to learn of their Doepel...on its last sail-training voyage The second-last day, would be a pretty IDWHRQWKLV¿QDOGD\ across the bay ~ your eyes tracing the magi- much a mix of everything that had gone On this day, after eight days at sea, the cal softness of patterns in the ship’s wake, before and looking down over the ship, you captain would gallantly give the trainees and the beautiful romance of her departing would see trainees mixed up in every aspect the ship to take over. They’d choose their shape silhouetted against the sky ~ as you of the ship’s operation—from bending over RZQFDSWDLQQDYLJDWRUVDLOPDVWHURI¿F- wonder if she will ever sail the waters of the chart and radar in the navigation space; ers, from amongst themselves, and they the bay again, or if her decks will ever handling the anchor winch; shadowing the would sail the ship back across the bay to again be a-run with sail-trainees keeping VDLOPDVWHU¿QJHULQJURSHHQGVLQWRIDQF\ Melbourne. the spirit and purpose of this graceful knots; easing out bunt-lines; swinging from If us leading hands, had been allowed sailing ship alive with their exuberance, the footropes aloft; anticipating what the into the saloon, we would have seen this joyfulness and youth. next command from the sail-master would news taken quite soberly and sedately by be, and being there ready. the trainees. Where once there might have 0DU\6RZD 0HOERXUQH By now, trainees might come to us lead- been roisterous cheering and vociferous ing hands, telling us that a jib-edge was demanding all trying to out-compete each ÀDSSLQJDQGDVNLQJLIWKH\PLJKWWLJKWHQ other in the noise and attention stakes; this the sheet; or they might come and ask our news was taken in quite soundlessly, and opinion of a topmast staysail furl, at which mentally digested and thought over, before we’d step back on the deck, shading our they responded. eyes as we looked mast-wards to observe For by now our trainees knew more fully

FULL & BY JULY 2007 9 Windeward Bound knockdown The knockdown incident of the sail train- ing vessel Windeward Bound resulted in a number of safety recommendations by the Australian Transport Safety Bureau. On 3 June 2004, the Australian sail training ship Windeward Bound was off the Victorian coast, heading northeast at about six knots. The wind was from the northwest and the vessel was heeled between 10 and 15 degrees to starboard. The upper and lower topsails and the main and fore staysails were set. A cold front was expected that afternoon. The watch RI¿FHUZDVDVVLVWHGE\DZDWFKOHDGHUDQG My big break - Whilst crewing on the Windeward Bound in 2004 two general purpose hands, one of whom I found my self involved with the SBS reality TV show “The Colony” .This was at the helm. ELWRI³UHDOLW\´79LQYROYHVWKUHHIDPLOLHVRI¿YH±IURP(QJODQG,UHODQGDQG At 1726, when the ship was about 30 Australia. It purported to be “living history” with each family being given miles south of Gabo Island, the wind 30 acres of land somewhere up the Hawkesbury The families must eat speed increased. The helmsman was WKHVDPHIRRGZHDUWKHVDPHFORWKHVVOHHSLQWKHVDPHVKHOWHUVXVH instructed to run the vessel downwind. the same tools and live by the same harsh rules as did their ancestors. Shortly thereafter, the vessel yawed to 7KH\DUHHDFKJLYHQFRQYLFWVLPSOHPHQWVIRRGFORWKHVHWFIURPWKH port and the helmsman put the rudder hard early 1800 and supposedly replicate the condition of our pioneers. over to starboard. The watch leader then 2XURQHQLJKWDWVHDIURP1HZFDVWOHWR%URNHQ%D\VXSSRVHGO\JDYH took the helm and, as the vessel was now them some idea of what it was like to sail to Australia. We had 30 knot swinging to starboard, applied a ‘consid- winds with a lumpy sea. Our settlers were pleading to be taken ashore erable amount’ of port rudder. When the and spent most of their time with their heads to leeward. SBS dressed vessel had started to swing to port, the the crew in what their wardrobe department thought 1825 sailors watch leader put the rudder hard over to would wear. This was no real problem but being bare footed whilst starboard to arrest the swing. A gust of FOLPELQJWKHUDWOLQHVDQGVWDQGLQJRQWKHUDWOLQHVWRVHWVDLOZDVEXW, near-hurricane force wind then heeled the forgot to take off my wrist watch and was cut out of all the scenes. vessel about 68 degrees to starboard. In late 2006 whilst crewing of the Brigantine “Svanen” I portrayed a Scottish The starboard side of the main deck seaman for the TV movie “The Catalpa Rescue”. This movie depicts the was submerged and seawater entered a rescue of six Irish convicts from West Australia. They ere sentenced for their fuel tank through an open air pipe on part in an Irish uprising in the Irish uprising in the 1870. The Movie should deck. A quantity of seawater also entered be shown on the ABC later on his year. It has been sold to Ireland and the the deckhouse and accommodation before USA. This time I made sure I removed my watch. I expect a fan club to doors to the deckhouse and accommoda- EHIRUPHGDQGPVLJQHGDXWRJUDSKHGSKRWRVZLOOEHDYDLODEOHRQ(%D\ tion were shut. The vessel was righted af- www.irishaustralia.com/Australian/Patriots/catalpa.htm ter several minutes using the main engine Peter Davey and rudder and by letting the sheets go. 6HDPDQ:LQGHZDUG%RXQG6YDQHQ-DPHV&UDLJ There was a minor injury to a crew member during the incident and the main engine had been damaged after being run with little or no lubricating oil pressure when the vessel was heeled. During the next twenty four hours contact was lost with authorities ashore. An air search was initiated in the after- noon on 4 June and Windeward Bound was found safe and heading for Jervis Bay, where it arrived late in the evening on 5 June. http://www.atsb.gov.au/publications/ investigation_reports/2004/MAIR/pdf/ mair204_001.pdf

10 JULY 2007 FULL & BY Log of the Svanen

By Peter Davey

n 1987 I joined the Our Svanen in IFremantle as voyage crew to Sydney, as part of the Bicentennial First Fleet Re- enactment voyage. The Fleet consisted of the Bark Bounty; The Topsail Schooner Tucker Thompson; the Brigantine Soren Larsen; The Our Svanen; the Barquentine Amorina; the Topsail Sailor Schooner/Brigantine Tradewinds, the *DOHDV .HWFK $QQD.ULVWLQDDQGWKH Brigantine One And All.

Captain Ken Edwards was onboard, as WKH&RPPRGRUHRIWKHÀHHWDQG-DPHV Parbery was crewing on the Bounty. This ZDVP\¿UVWYR\DJHRQDVTXDUHULJJHUDQG I was overawed with the rig and the pins. I would never have believed it, if I had been told, that nearly twenty years later I would have spent 9 months as the Boson on the Svanen and have 5000 hours square rig experience. As I look back on the sail across the chor cable goes through the forward space what we could expect. The forecast is bight I have the satisfaction of knowing in the mess which is also a general storage for a high well down the Great Austral- that I worked as a real top man, in that, we areas for ropes/blocks/shackles etc. By ian Bight. If this happens we can expect were top men and not clip-on-men as they previous experience we will have the noise westerly winds and a good stiff sail south are today. The professional crew and the from the anchor chains and the maximum of Tasmania. Jay, the captain, believes in majority of the voyage crew worked with- up and down movement... sailing. out the hindrance of a safety line... Our The forward mess is a separate entity Svanen was registered in Canada and we from the other accommodation. All the 25/12/87 were not subject to the over-the-top OH& other messes are interconnected and have Had a quiet Xmas day. Svanen is a dry S we have to put up with today. their own heads and showers at hand, ship so my total intake was 4 beers at a whereas, we have to go on the upper deck Xmas dinner but on the company on the Below are edited extracts of my log. (I and below. wharf. All the other ship’s crew appeared strongly urge any crew who are fortunate This provides water tight integrity in to be rolling drunk. There will be some HQRXJKWRYR\DJHNHHSDORJ  case there is a collision. The bow can throwing up when we go to sea tomorrow. cave in and the rest of the ship will not be At the end of the dinner, all the would be, 23/12/1987 ÀRRGHG ,DOVRIRXQGRXWWKDWLQLQFOHP- could be VIP’s started to make speeches. It She passed her survey yesterday so ent weather, it meant putting on full foul was then announced that we would to meet we should make it. The last tall ship weather gear any time your ventured on WKHFRPPRGRUHRIWKHÀHHWDQGUHFHLYH to leave for the bight lost her masts off WKHXSSHUGHFN  a Xmas present from Santa. Needless Albany. Below it is rough especially in Spent the afternoon lashing down the to say, I did the only possible thing and the forecastle mess. Six bunks and one vegetable boxes to the bulkhead. An early walked out. mattress - I missed out. I am ex Navy so night because I had a hangover which who needs one. The only storage is a six would kill a drover’s dog. Too many 26/12/1987 inch wide shelf which runs the length of ex Navy and PNG mates. I should have We sailed at 10 am this morning and I the bunk. I am storing most of my gear planned a few more days in Perth before have won galley duty. Yesterday, Mainstay under the sleeping bag which is now my I joined. UXP WKH\DUHVSRQVRULQJWKH2XU6YDQHQ  mattress. Luckily I brought a pillow and issued us with uniforms for the trip. Think blanket with me. 24/12/87 you were back in pusses. Had my last fresh According to notices around the Svanen, Spent all day working on one of the water shower for a month last night. our mess is out of bounds. This is because boats. Fixing up the ‘rubbing strip’ a slow There is also no fresh water for wash- it is normally for the crew’s mess. The an- job. The captain gave us a short talk on ing clothes. We are allowed three quarters

FULL & BY JULY 2007 11 of a gallon per day. This also must cover cooking. After talking to the crew I am appre- hensive about the adequacy of my gear. I cannot really see me working aloft in my sea boots {Brother-in-law’s gumboots} and my St Vincent De Paul foul weather gear looks a farce compared to the real thing. I should also have brought our best sleeping bag. Without a mattress the brass eyelets of the canvas bunk are already cold at night... Svanen is chock-full with food - espe- FLDOO\IUXLWDQGYHJV7KHUHVWRIWKHÀHHWLV also carrying truck loads of grog. With my inability to operate with a hangover I am probably better off. Being an ex training ship the Svanen has always been dry. None of the permanent crew drink. The captain has a horror of using the engines and ex- pects to sail in any weather. He could not afford to have us half tanked. I have been aloft a number of times, needless to say, I refuse to use a safety har- ness. The masts are a piece cake but when you step onto the yardarms [square sails] foot ropes it is not so easy. The vessel is a ÀRDWLQJDFFLGHQWDERXWWRKDSSHQ 2pm same day. At sea bound for Botany Bay. Well what can I say. An unbelievable departure from Perth, with only one abo- ULJLQDOSURWHVWHU7KHÀHHWKHDGHGQRUWK of Rottnest Island before sailing south for Botany Bay. There were two reasons to head north: one to gain the sea room and WKHRWKHUWRDOORZWKHÀHHWVHWWKHLUVTXDUH sails. ,ZDVWKH¿UVWRIWKHQHZFUHZWRJR aloft. Lyn, the boson, asked for volunteers to take out the gaskets (rope that holds the VWRZHGVDLOVRQWRWKHVTXDUHDUPV RQWKH upper top sail. Before I could change my mind I was on the ratlines and half way up the mast... You always climb up and down on the windward side of the ratlines for obvious reason. There was some trepidation as I stepped with one hand. onto the foot ropes (these are slung in loops wear footwear except when I go aloft - this Looking back from my vantage point I EHORZWKH\DUGDUPV ,ZRUNHGP\ZD\ will save me wearing my seaboots. could see eight square rigged ships with all out to the end of the yard. We were rolling sails set in a very rough line astern forma- about 20 degrees each and side and this is 27/12/1987 tion. The satisfaction working aloft and the accentuated 60 ft up in the air. Not the best night sleep last night, VLJKWRIWKHÀHHWZHUHEH\RQGEHOLHI When another sailor steps onto or off though I had the night off duty. I was in We are now motor sailing to gain sea- WKHIRRWURSHVKH RUVKH \HOOV³FRPLQJ the galley all yesterday. Not my idea of room with a quarter of the crew down with on”. As I reached the end of the yardarm work. I have a 1700 to 2359 tonight. We sea sickness. The decks are constantly I heard coming on, up til then the foot have to make 140 nautical miles a day to awash with an occasional wave just break- ropes seemed to have a life of their own. reach Botany Bay, so we are now motor ing over the side. We will not have as much With two {or more} on the foot ropes there VDLOLQJGXHVRXWKZLWKDVOLJKWVHD¿QH motion when they turn off the iron spin- appeared to be a number of ropes lives weather; decks still awash and our mess QDNHU PRWRU :HUROOWRGHJUHHV ¿JKWLQJRQHDQRWKHU

12 JULY 2007 FULL & BY trouble getting the boots off as they would drown me. I should have brought, at least, another woollen jumper and our best sleeping bag. I can feel those brass eyelets all night - cold. A few more ‘sailors’ on deck - still very white in the gills. There will be no frigging in the rigging or rooting in the ratlines for a while. The complete upper deck, except for the quarter deck, is awash. The other sleeping areas are full of vomit sloshing about. All food is eaten on the quarter deck (down aft with the galley just forward and the steer- LQJZKHHO WKRXJKWKHUHLVDVDORRQZLWK seating for 6. In rough weather we will eat there in relays. The food is very good when you consider the space and conditions. All navigation is by sextant, starts and the log towed astern. The log is 40 ft of rope with a brass log with vanes around it. This turns the rope and records the speed at Fremantle now go aloft, some wear the through the water and distance covered. safety harness. Those who wear the safety Around the three masts and along the harness seem to do no work but just hold ships side there are 120 belaying pins on. None of the females who joined at Fre- of which 90 have, for the want of a bet- mantle have actually made it aloft as yet. ter name, ‘ropes’ attached and used for There has been an improvement with the KDXOLQJVKHHWLQJUHH¿QJDQGVHWWLQJVDLO weather. I have been able to delay going We are required to know them all and to into my one set of full thermal underwear. EHDEOHWR¿QGWKHPLQWKHGDUN,NQRZ Once on, they will be on for weeks. two. All sailing ships carry their ‘ropes’ The vessel is easy to steer. The course in roughly the same position. - Hence the set, so far, has been as close to the wind saying “learning the ropes”. as she will sail, about 70 degrees off the wind. You steer by the compass and the 28/12/1987 Top Gallant stay sail’s luff. So far our mess Last night, I was out on the fore sprit, OLYLQJVSDFH LVGU\WKRXJKWKHUHLVDPXVW\ rolling up and putting gaskets on the fore smell all around. jib. It was in such a position that the mate of the Anna Kristina (another one of the 29/12/87 VKLSV ZDVORVWRYHUERDUG1RWPXFKLQ Had the middle watch last night it though. :HGRXVHG KDXOHGGRZQ  This morning sailing ESE. There is the course, lower topsail, upper topsail and large high forming over the Bight. We are the top gallant sail. [all square sails on the now heading roughly for the Bass Strait foremast and the main] the main, main top- but we could still turn south if the weather sail, mizzen and the mizzen top. Nil moon requires it. A perfect day - sky clear - but and dark. We experienced a wind change not enough wind even though if it is from DQGDOOWKHVDLOVZHUHÀRJJLQJ6WHHULQJ the right direction - now volunteer to go 130 magnetic, slight sea with a force 1 to aloft on every occasion. 2 wind from the east. Still making our 140 To release the gaskets (ropes that hold nautical miles a day. WKHVDLOVWRWKHVTXDUHVDLOV \RXVWDQG ,WZDVDPDJLFQLJKWZLWKÀXRUHVFHQW on the foot ropes, which hang below the waves slipping past on either side. The sky yardarms and lean over to undo the ropes. was full of stars blinking with port and There are four lines each side of the mast starboard lights and occasionally slashed FDOOHGJDVNHWV WKHVHDUHZUDSSHGDURXQG by shooting stars. On bow watch most of the stowed sail on the yardarm and tied the time - I was reluctant go below. with a slippery clove hitch. -D\ WKH\HDUROGFDSWDLQ KDVDQ possible in my sea boots. Out of my bunk overwhelming enthusiasm for everything I also unfurled the mizzen tops sail, the at 0630; down to the quarter deck to clean mizzen is the hardest to climb. The shrouds to do with sailing and the sea. When he is teeth. All tooth brushes are kept behind an not explaining the sail he is dissecting the and ratlines (run from the deck to the top of elastic line in the galley; a quick scoop of WKHPDVW DUHYHU\QDUURZDQGWKHWRSDQG VWDUVDQGFDUYLQJZKDOHWHHWK VFULPVKDZ  sea water from the deck {which is always The boson, normally the disciplinary petty the movement of the mast tend to throw awash} then onto the helm. No washing you around the back of the shrouds. RI¿FHULVDQDWWUDFWLYHLVKZRPDQZLWK RUVKRZHUV 1RZDWHU a rose tattooed on her left breast. She is in I now wear old shoes. It would be im- The majority of the crew that joined

FULL & BY JULY 2007 13

charge of setting the sails and overhauling the running standing rigging. She has LQ¿QLWHSDWLHQFHLQH[SODLQLQJWKHULJJLQJ of the sails.

30/12/1987 Spent an interesting 30 minutes up the PL]]HQGRXVLQJ IXUOLQJ WKHPL]]HQWRS sail. What a bugger of a job. The shrouds and ratlines taper into about 4 inches where they join the next section of the mast. {All the masts have two or three sections joined together}. We were under full sail and rolling 20 degrees or so each side.

16 JULY 2007 FULL & BY