In This Issue

Home , Great Baikal Trail, Lake Ritsa, Sergey Zimov

No. 41 Spring/Summer 2006

In this Issue: • Climate Change Stories from the Russian Arctic • Studying the Impacts of a Chinese Chemical Spill in Bolonsky Zapovednik • Abkhazia's Ritsinsky Relict National Park • Avian Flu: Russian Policies Raise Concerns

PROMOTING BIODIVERSITY CONSERVATION IN RUSSIA AND THROUGHOUT NORTHERN EURASIA CONTENTS CONTENTS

Voice from the Wild ECOLOGICAL TOURISM (A Letter from the Editors)...... 1 Encouraging Whale Watching and Marine PROTECTED AREAS Ecotourism in Russia...... 15

Bolonsky Zapovednik Studying the Impacts The Great Baikal Trai...... ………………………………....18 of a Chinese Chemical Spill ...... ………………...2 FOR DISCUSSION Developing and Regulating Tourism: Striking a Delicate Balance in Abkhazia's Avian Flu: Russian Official Ritsinsky Relict National Park...... ……………….5 Policies Raise Concerns...... ………….………………………..21

ENDANGERED ECOSYSTEMS CONSERVATION HISTORY

Pleistocene Park: Return of the Reflections on the Social History Mammoth's Ecosystem...... 8 of Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik...... …………………….25

Coastal Dwellers on Russia's ABSTRACTS IN RUSSIAN...... 29 Chukotka Peninsula Report the Effects of Climate Change...... 12 CONSERVATION CONTACTS...... Back Cover

Russian Conservation News is produced with support form many The mission of the Center for Russian Nature wonderful conservation-minded people! We could not do our work Conservation (CRNC) is to promote the conser- without you! Special thanks to: vation of nature in Russia and throughout the Gerard Boere, Dave Cline & Olga Romanenko, Evelyn Cochran, former Soviet Union, and to assist conservation Harriet Crosby, Susan Helms Daley, Winslow Duke, Bernt Dybern, groups in that region through information Brock Evans, Matthew Foley, Carol Foss, Kevin Gilligan, exchange, coordination of professional and Freeborn Jewett, George Johnson, Mati Kaal, Nadezhda Kavrus- education exchanges, and provision of techni- Hoffman, Eliza Klose, Richard Lanier (Trust for Mutual cal assistance to protected areas. CRNC is a proj- Understanding), Phyllis Lathrope, Thomas McCorkle & Brook ect of the Tides Center. Stevens, Richard McQuire, Mary Anne Mekosh, Kazuo Morimoto, Lois Morrison, Douglas P. Murray, Gordon Orians, Peyton Owston, Jose Vasco Sousa, Hunter & Lois Staley, Greg Streveler, Townsend Swayze, Thomas Van Pelt, William & Susan Wasch, Gary Waxmonsky, Don & Patricia Weeden, and Fred Welty.

RCN has many partners and friends in Russia, including the Partnership for Zapovedniks, whose mission is to offer organizational, technical, and financial © Copyright 2006 CRNC/Tides Center. help to zapovedniks and national parks in Russia.

ISSN 1026-6380

Spring/Summer 2006, No. 41 Russian Conservation News Voice from the Wild (A Letter from the Editors)

This forty-first issue of Russian Conservation News goes to press not long after world leaders gathered in St. Petersburg for the G8 summit, the first with host nation Russia in the role of rotating Chair. One of the three major agenda items discussed at the event was global energy security. In their final communique’ on EDITORIAL BOARD this important topic, the G8 nations acknowledged the interconnection of energy security, economic growth, and environmental protection. Environmentalists Executive Editor: Margaret Williams were pleased that the global leaders included energy efficiency and conservation, development of low-carbon and renewable energy sources, and addressing cli- Assistant Editor: Melissa Mooza mate change as part of a common strategy to meet long-term global energy Guest Editors: Andrea Williams, demands. However, general consensus among conservationists – in Russia and Chas Dewey abroad – was that the summit resulted in too few concrete commitments and investments in this sphere. Managing Editor: Natalya Troitskaya

Graphics Artist: Maksim Dubinin Russian President Vladimir Putin also demonstrated disappointing lack of leader- ship and vision when, at a summit event, he stated that “the next fifty years Design and Layout: Design Group A4 belong to hydrocarbon energy.” This irresponsible pronouncement, clearly grounded in the dependence of the Russian economy on hydrocarbon industries, Computer Consultation: Natalie Volkova is another example of a major world leader's failure to recognize the urgency in addressing global climate change. Translation: Melissa Mooza Yet for the earth's far northern regions, these changes are already palpable. A sur- Subscriptions Manager: vey conducted by the Russian office of the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Sarah Millspaugh offers numerous examples of the environmental and social impacts being felt in Contributing Authors: N. Agaltseva, the Russian Arctic. WWF collected accounts from residents of several coastal E. Hoyt, E. Kuznetsov, M. Mooza, communities in Russia's northeastern most province, the Chukotka Autonomous I. Nikitina, A. Suknyev, L. Woodson, Region, who report observations of anomalous weather patterns, landscape fea- and S. Zimov tures, and faunal distribution and behavior. Their stories – summarized in this Contributing Artists and issue of RCN – indicate that substantial changes have already occurred and fur- Photographers: N. Agaltseva, D. Berjak, ther raise concerns about how the Arctic's indigenous people will preserve their A. Burdin, V. Kavry, N. Maleshin, traditional way of life in the future. I. Nikitina, A. Svetlakov, L. Woodson, and S. Zimov In this installment of the journal, we turn our attention to another issue addressed by this July by the G8: highly pathogenic avian influenza. Specifically, Acknowledgments: Maps of Russia's protected areas that are featured in this we present an analysis of some of Russia's more controversial policies to control issue were prepared using the Protected the spread of the virus, which prescribe shooting migratory waterfowl and other Areas GIS database of the Biodiversity wild birds. Despite strong criticisms of such methods from the United Nations as Conservation Center/International Socio- well as many Russian conservationists, at least one Russian region, the Tyumen Ecological Union. For more information, please consult http://oopt.info/gis/data- Oblast in Siberia, has implemented a policy to shoot and frighten wild birds with- base-eng.html in a two-kilometer radius of human settlements, resulting in the senseless death of approximately 14,000 wild birds over a month's time

ON THE COVER In this issue we return to a frequently covered in RCN's pages: the development of ecotourism in northern Eurasia's wild places. We share a report on the chal- lenges of ecotourism development in the Republic of Abkhazia as well as the Russian Far East, where an initiative called the Far East Russia Orca Project is helping to assess the status and prospects of marine ecotourism, including whale watching. Further inland, an ambitious long-term project is underway to create a 2,000-kilometer-long system of trails around Lake Baikal, described in this RCN.

Finally, as with all successful publications and conservation projects there are always talented people at work, researching, translating, writing and word- smithing. We are glad to welcome back one of those people, Lisa Woodson, a former RCN editor and regular contributor to the journal, as she shares a historical overview of Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik in the northern Ural Mountains. At the same time we bid a bittersweet farewell to Melissa Mooza, RCN's Assistant Editor extraordinaire, who will be leaving Moscow to return to the US after three hugely productive years with the journal. Melissa has been not only a highly skilled linguist and writer, but a steadfast advocate for accuracy and preservation of each contributing author's style and voice. We have all been the beneficiaries of Melissa's great work and as the chief editor I am grateful for her enormous contribution in bringing the trials and victories of Russian conservation to the Cover artwork by students at the Moscow Academic Lyceum of the Russian Academy of Arts. West.

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 1 Protected Areas Protected Areas

Bolonsky Zapovednik Studying the Impacts of a Chinese Chemical Spill

By Irina Nikitina

he November 2005 explosion that Wetlands of Toccurred at China's Jilin Chemical International Industrial Company released close to Importance. 100 tons of benzene compounds and other toxic chemical wastes into the The benzene slick Songhua River, a large tributary of the moved along the Amur River. This discharge increased Amur River – from levels of pollution in the entire middle Khabarovsk, at the and lower flow of the Amur River. It is junction of the Amur having inevitable impacts on many and Ussuri Rivers, to wetland areas, including the Lake Nikolaevsk, at the Bolon wetlands, by altering the hydro- Amur's mouth – du- chemical composition of water bodies ring December 2005 and disrupting the established ecologi- and January 2006, cal balance. but did not come in direct contact with Bolonsky Zapovednik is located at the Bolonsky Zapoved- center of a network of wetlands in the nik. The ice cover Amur River Valley and is directly on Lake Bolon and linked to the Amur River's hydrological the Amur River system through Lake Bolon. The served as a buffer. reserve has particular biogeographic Nevertheless, the significance as an area of high zoologi- discharge will have cal diversity and as a link in the con- long term conse- fluence of flyways of migratory birds. quences for the Much of the zapovednik's territory has entire wetland been included on the Ramsar List of ecosystem. The toxic benzene slick resulting from the November 2005 chemical spill in Jilin, China, moved down the Amur River and past Bolonsky Zapovednik during December 2005 and January 2006. Map by M. Dubinin.

Spring flooding in 2006 brought ice and water from the Amur River into Lake Bolon. The floodwaters, contain- ing benthic sediments contaminated by metallic and other chemical compounds, entered the lake's waters and the zapovednik's rivers.

In early May 2006 scientists working at Bolonsky Zapovednik's laboratory collected water samples at several river Spring floodwaters inundate much of the territory of Bolonsky Zapovednik. stations along the Amur: the village of Photo by I. Nikitina.

2 Russian Conservation News Protected Areas

Achan, located at the entrance to Lake and near shore birds inhabiting the “Khabarovsky” conducted toxicologi- Bolon; several places in the lake; and zapovednik may be threatened, cal analyses of samples from fish the mouth of the Simmi River, which including seven rare species listed in caught in the Village of Malmyzh in flows into Lake Bolon and is the core the 2006 IUCN Red List of Threatened Nanaisky District at the mouth of of Bolonsky Zapovednik's hydrological Species – the Oriental white stork Lake Bolon on December 21 and 31, system. All of the samples were ana- (Ciconia boyciana), hooded crane 2005. Their samples contained lyzed for benzol, phenol, and other (Grus monacha), Japanese crane (Grus nitrobenzene compounds (up to compounds characteristic of the spec- japonensis), swan goose (Anser cyg- .0004 mg/kg); benzene (up to .00083 trum of chemicals in the Songhua pol- noides), lesser white-fronted goose mg/kg); and heavy metals such as lution. Although benzol, orthoxylene, (Anser erythropus), Steller's sea eagle mercury, lead, cadmium, copper, and paraxylene, and toluol were not found (Haliaeetus pelagicus), and spoon- zinc. The lack of established norms in the samples, the content of phenols billed sandpiper (Eurynorhynchus pyg- for chemical substance levels in living was three times normal levels. The meus). Birds listed in the Red Book of organisms, particularly in fish, means phenols in the Amur's waters have var- the Russian Federation also inhabit the that the toxicological analysis is not ious origins. However, the degradation wetlands in the Lake Bolon basin. definitive. However, the presence of of river water quality during spring Fish, mollusks, algae, and aquatic nitrobenzene and benzene in the fish 2006, as compared to the same period plants comprise the primary part of is an obvious consequence of the in previous years, is pronounced and their forage. Songhua pollution. The concentra- will impact the status of the entire tion of these components was signifi- ecosystem. As the benzene slick progressed down cantly greater in fish caught closer to the Amur, researchers monitoring the the spill. Scientists surmise that fish will be the situation harvested fish from various first to experience the negative areas for contamination testing. The From 2001-2005 zapovednik staff car- impacts of this pollution. Later, Institute of Tectonics and Geophysics ried out a program focused on con- through food chain links, this pollu- of the Far Eastern Branch of the serving the Oriental white stork, dur- tion will affect the development and Russian Academy of Sciences and the ing which they gathered data on the of health of other animals. Waterfowl Agro-Chemical Laboratory status of stork chicks and assessed the

Together with a colleague from Khabarovsk, two Bolonsky Zapovednik scientists band an Oriental white stork chick and gather samples from the young bird for analysis. Photo by I. Nikitina.

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 3 Protected Areas

biota and soils and researching the level, but they have yet to be approved impact of pollution on indicator for funding by the Federal Service for species of flora and fauna, is needed. the Oversight of Nature Use Studying the negative impacts of the (Rosprirodnadzor) or NGOs. November 2005 accident on the Amur's natural complexes would Bolonsky Zapovednik offers unique increase knowledge of the sustainabili- conditions in which to conduct contin- ty of wetland ecosystems affected by uous and long-term observations of chemical discharges. Unfortunately, wetlands pollution. The reserve has a due to inadequate funding, pollution high quality analytical laboratory certi- monitoring of the Amur River has not fied by the Ministry of Natural Resour- been multi-faceted, and most research ces. It also has highly qualified person- is limited to water supply and the nel, including wildlife specialists, veteri- quality of fish as a food product. nary doctors, scientists researching water quality and benthic sediment in Bolonsky Zapovednik staff has pre- Lake Bolon. Their experience, together pared proposals for a more complete with that of the staff of regional aca- study of the conservation status of demic institutes and other organiza- wetlands of international importance tions who evaluate veterinary and toxi- in connection with the pollution of cological aspects of the status of indica- the Amur River. These proposals envi- tor species, would facilitate analyzing An Oriental white stork surveys the reserve sion expanding the existing “Amur the extent of negative changes in wet- from its treetop perch. Photo by A. Svetlakov. Program,” which began in 2004 and land ecosystems and the tolerance of runs through 2008, to include research these ecosystems to technogenic stress. microbiological background of nest- of the human impact on the Bolon ing areas. In 2006, zapovednik spe- wetlands. The reserve's proposals have Irina Nikitina is the Deputy Director cialists are closely monitoring water been submitted to governmental and for Science at Bolonsky Zapovednik quality in the zapovednik's water bod- non-governmental organizations in and the Chairman of the Region Public ies during the spring period and dur- Khabarovsk Krai and at the federal Organization “Echo.” ing the period of chick feeding, as well as the status of fish in the Amur ichthyo- complex upon which birds feed. Microbiological research on the nests of Oriental white stork and Steller's sea eagle, which are indicator species for the wetlands of the Central Amur, will also be conducted.

Hydrochemical research encom- passing all phases of the hydrological regime, assessing the balance of contami- nants and deter- mining the extent of their absorption by Bolonsky Zapovednik scientists conduct microbiological analysis in the reserve's laboratory. Photo by I. Nikitina.

4 Russian Conservation News Protected Areas Developing and Regulating Tourism: Striking a Delicate Balance in Abkhazia's Ritsinsky Relict National Park

By Natalia Agaltseva

itsinsky Relict National Park is situated in Rthe mountains of the Great Caucasus Range, in the northwestern part of the Republic of Abkhazia. The park was organized on the territory of the former Ritsa-Avadkharsky Zapovednik by the government of Abkhazia in 1996. It borders Russia's Kavkazsky Biosphere Zapovednik to the north and is located less than 50 kilometers from the Arkhyz unit of Russia's Teberdinsky Zapovednik. The Park occupies a relatively small area – 39,032.7 hectares – but its landscapes are diverse. High mountains merge into deep ravines and narrow canyons. Grey rocky slopes crop out among green for- Ritsinsky Relict National Park. Map by M. Dubinin. est massifs. Dark blue mountain lakes and clear National Relict Park. This comprises rivers contrast with light 40% of all floral species in Abkhazia green alpine meadows, and 13% of flora in the Caucasus lush against a backdrop of region. In addition, many plant and bright white fields of snow. animal species in the Park are listed within the Caucasus region, but in in the Red Book of the USSR. Its variety of endemic species of flora Eurasia as well. According to prelimi- and fauna make Ritsinsky Relict nary estimates, no fewer than 800 The 3,000-meter elevation range with- National Park significant not just plant species grow in Ritsinsky in the Park creates a dramatic contrast

Spotlight on Abkhazia The Republic of Abkhazia, or Apsny, as it is called in the local Abkhazian language, is located in the northwestern part of the Caucasus region, where it is bordered to the north and northeast by Russia's Krasnodar Krai and Republics of Karachay-Cherkessia and Kabardino-Balkaria, and on the southeast by Georgia. Abkhazia occupies 8,600 square kilometers, with its territory extending 160 kilometers from west to east and 54 kilometers from north to south. The Republic's coastline is washed by the warm waters of the Black Sea. According to a 2001 census, approximately 320,000 people – Abkhazians, Armenians, Russians, Georgians, Greeks, Estonians, Germans, Poles, and Jews, among others – live in Abkhazia. More than half the Republic's residents live in urban areas and close to 50,000 people call the Republic's capital, Sukhumi, home. During the Soviet era, Abkhazia was a popular resort area for Russian tourists. According to some accounts, this region surpassed the famous resorts of Kradnodar Krai, such as Sochi, Anapa, and Gelendzhik, in its popularity. The Republic's attractiveness as a tourist destination was diminished by operations carried out in Abkhazia during the Georgia-Abkhazia war of 1992-93. As a result, the local government was unable to devote necessary attention and funding to a variety of sectors, including those connected with nature protection and tourism. Although both sectors declined during the war and the years following it, they are now showing signs of growth. Editor's note: Since proclaiming its independence from Georgia in 1992, Abkhazia has been functioning as a de facto independent state, but remains unrecognized by the international community. Following the 1994 cease-fire, several vio- lent incidents have occurred along the ceasefire line in the Kodori Gorge, which also serves as the de facto border between Georgia and the breakaway republic. Most recently, on July 25, 2006, armed fighting erupted between Georgian and Abkazian forces after Georgian Interior Ministry forces entered the Gorge to disarm a milita group funtioning there.

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 5 Protected Areas

Ritsinsky's Flora In the Park and on adjacent territories of the Gagra and Bzyb Mountain Ranges, unique endemic, narrowly endemic, and relict flora are widely repre- sented and constitute a highly valuable component of the earth's plant genetic resources. Boxtree (Buxus colchica), butcher's broom (Ruscus colchicus), and maidenbush (Leptopus colchicus) are notable among endemic species. Relict species of fir (Abies sp.), boxtree (Buxtus sp.), and cherry-laurel (Lauricerasus sp.) found in the Park also are ecologically valuable. of landscapes. The lowest point in the Caucasus region and among Park is Goluboye Lake at 107 meters Abkhazia's deepest lakes at 116 meters; below sea level, while the highest is at Goluboye Lake, the remarkably deep the summit of Mt. Agepsta, a peak of blue color of which scientists attribute the Gagra Range, at 3,256 meters. Five to lapis deposits; the 55-meter Gegsky different climactic zones are repre- Waterfall; and Yupsharskoye Gorge, sented within the small park, ranging with its 400 meter sheer rock walls. from temperate moist and warm cli- mates at elevations of 300 to 1,500 Unsustainable human activities in the meters above sea level (where January Park, particularly logging, livestock temperatures average 2O Celsius and grazing, and unregulated tourism, have annual precipitation reaches 1,800 taken a toll on the Park and are cause mm) to areas more than 2,700 meters for concern. The productive and shel- above sea level (which are blanketed tering functions of its forests have by permanent snow and glaciers and been jeopardized, the flora and fauna where annual average temperatures have decreased (a few disappearing Gegesky Waterfall, the park's largest, drops are below 0O Celsius). altogether), and the condition of some 55 meters over a rock wall of the Gagrsky Massif. of the Park's natural attractions has Photo by N. Agaltseva. An interesting variety of natural for- declined. mations add to the Park's recreational visited the Park during 2005. This was attractiveness. These include canyons Tourism has increased markedly in a 250% increase over 2004. The Park and other dramatic forms of relief, recent years and warrants particular lacks appropriate infrastructure to lakes and waterfalls, and caves and attention. According to the Director accommodate and support such heavy grottos. Notable are Lake Ritsa, one of of Ritsinsky Relict National Park, Said tourist traffic. For example, there are the most beautiful lakes in the Greater Tarkil, more than 117,000 tourists no clearly marked trails, some of the Park's roads are in poor condition, the Park lacks adequate accommodations for guests, and designated parking areas are insufficient for the many cars now entering the Park.

In addition to increased visitation to the portion of the Park designated for public access, tourist traffic has also increased in the Park's strictly protected zones. Tourist trails to the Park's main attractions – such as Lake Ritsa and the Avadkhara resort (located in a basin with mineral springs surrounded by coniferous-broadleaf forests) – run through parts of the Park's strictly protected zones. Across the park, the territory accessible for large-scale tourism is limited. However, human activities even in this small area pose a risk to the flora and fauna of the entire Park. An assessment of the Park by the Mountain slopes blanketed with lush mixed forests frame Lake Ritsa in northwestern Republic's ecological service con- Abkhazia. Photo by N. Agaltseva.

6 Russian Conservation News Protected Areas firmed that the overall condition of its natural assets has worsened.

Research to determine allowable loads on the Park's primary tourist routes is required to see if measures to regulate activities in the Park are needed. Monitoring of the state of natural features along the main routes is needed to evaluate the effects of tourism. If these assess- ments reveal that the state of the environment has worsened, the flow of visitors should be more evenly dis- tributed or limited.

At the same time, however, the Republic of Abkhazia is interested in developing tourism, as it is now one of the Republic's primary sources of income. Ritsinsky Relict National Park is Abkhazia's second most popular tourist attraction. In 2005 the Park contributed 3,761,600 rubles to the Republic's budget and 501,700 rubles to non-governmental coffers. The leaders of the Republic have a difficult task in balancing these economic benefits with preservation of the Park. The development of ecological tourism on a planned scientific basis would facilitate this task. Such plan- ning, however, requires significant time and money. Because of the difficult post-war economic situation in the Republic of Abkhazia, the absence of legislation governing the management and activities of the Park, and the Park's lack of trained specialists, it is not now in a position to do so.

Protected areas in the Russian Federation and in a number of other Eurasian countries can count on financial and other support from Western nature conservation organizations. In Mt. Adzhara, located along Ritsinsky Relict National Park's northern border, rises 2,907 Russia, for example, there are organi- meters above sea level. Photo by N. Agaltseva. zations – both governmental and non-governmental – that are actively this goal is practically impossible to University of Russia in Moscow and involved in the problems of specially achieve without adequate funding, holds a degree in Socio-Cultural protected nature areas. But the prob- staffing, technology, and equipment. Service and Tourism. For her lems faced by protected areas in the With the assistance of nature conser- graduate thesis on Ritsinsky Relict Republic of Abkhazia remain unad- vation organizations and specialists in National Park she received a dressed, due in large part to the Russia and the West, the natural won- “Thesis of the Year” departmental Republic's unrecognized status and its ders of Ritsinsky Relict National Park award. She currently works as a political instability. There are individ- can be preserved. translator and as Program uals and groups of enthusiasts, who Coordinator for International are trying to preserve the Republic's Natalia Agaltseva is a 2006 Language Schools for English rare and valuable natural assets, but graduate of the Peoples' Friendship First in the CIS.

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 7 Endangered Ecosystems Endangered Ecosystems

Pleistocene Park: Return of the Mammoth's Ecosystem

By Sergey A. Zimov

uring the last ice age, the world's Dmost extensive ecosystem stretched from France across the Bering Strait to Canada and from the arctic islands to northern China. It was at the very end of a more than million- year epoch, the Pleistocene, during which colossal ice sheets repeatedly advanced and retreated, plowing up much of northern Europe and America. At the same time, from a geo- logical perspective, northeastern Siberia remained relatively unscathed. There, vast dust-covered plains and valleys dominated the landscape. Mammoths, woolly rhinoceroses, bison, horses, reindeer, musk oxen, elk, moose, saiga, and yaks grazed on grasslands under the predatory gaze of cave lions and wolves.

The ground, as in Siberia today, froze, Pleistocene Park. Map by M. Dubinin. contracted, and cracked each winter. In spring, water penetrated and froze vores to survive were reindeer that in one modest parcel of the northern in deep, narrow cracks, creating net- grazed on lichens and moose that fed Siberian region of Yakutia. We call our works of ice wedges. Over time, on willows. The mammoths and their project Pleistocene Park. The primary because of the slow accumulation of large animal companions, which had scientific goal is to determine more dust, river silt, and ice, the northern survived even the worst conditions the precisely the role that Pleistocene ani- lowlands of Siberia became covered ice age could muster, disappeared dur- mals played in maintaining their own with a thick sedimentary mantle of ing the Holocene warming. ecosystem. However, we also suspect frozen loess. These frozen sediments that by learning how to preserve and are filled with rootlets of grasses, It actually might not have been the cli- extend Pleistocene-like grasslands in microbes, and animal bones, all of matic changes that killed off these the northern latitudes, we could sub- which have enabled scientists to great animals and their ecosystem, sequently develop means for mitigat- chronicle the rise and fall of the however. More consequential, per- ing both the progress and effects of region's Pleistocene ecosystem. haps, were shifts in ecological dynam- global warming. The amount of car- ics wrought by people who relied on bon now sequestered in soils of the About 10,000 years ago, at the begin- increasingly efficient hunting prac- former mammoth ecosystem, and that ning of the Holocene epoch, this vast tices, which decimated the very popu- could end up as greenhouse gases if system, which I refer to as the mam- lations of grazing animals that main- released into the atmosphere by rising moth tundra-steppe, disappeared tained the tundra steppe. To test this global temperatures, surpasses the completely. In northern Siberia, mossy possibility, my colleagues and I for the total carbon content of all of the plan- tundra and forest tundra replaced the past decade have been working to et's rain forests. mammoth ecosystem. The only herbi- reconstitute the mammoth ecosystem

Reprinted with permission. From Zimov, SCIENCE 308:796-798 (2005). Copyright 2005 AAAS. Any further reproduction, distribution, transmission, display, publication or broadcast requires prior written permission from AAAS.

8 Russian Conservation News Endangered Ecosystems

The Vanishing of the of ecosystem terminator. The mam- The recent history of horses bolsters Herbivores moth ecosystem was the first large- the case against climate change as the Grassland ecosystems are evolutionari- scale victim, but the global destruction factor that destroyed the mammoth ly the youngest of ecosystems. These of grasslands only accelerated in the ecosystem and its diversity of large ecosystems have the highest rates of Holocene when people invented agri- animals. In the Republic of Yakutia in biogeochemical cycling. Grasses use culture and began raising cattle. northern Siberia, the biomass of horses water resources more rapidly than is greater than that of reindeer. their less productive competitors, such Twenty years ago, scientists explained Although horses are classified as as cactuses and trees, rather than the disappearance of numerous ani- domesticated animals, in practice spending energy for making thorns mals in the northern grasslands very most of them are wild, living without and toxins to ward off enemies. When simply – the arid steppe climate any aid from people. Evidently, they their numbers reach a level that can be changed into a humid one, and when are suited to the present climate. sustained by the landscape, herbivores the steppe vanished so did the steppe's eat and trample all the grassland vege- animals. In short, the moist Holocene Yet, these great herbivores disappeared tation produced during the rainy sea- climate was a catastrophe for them. In by the millions from northern Siberia son and return nutrients to the soil the last few years, however, a growing and elsewhere. As has happened else- through their manure. On different accumulation of radiocarbon dates of where and at other times, their vanish- continents, at different latitudes, grass- animal remains has been suggesting a ing coincides with the introduction by land ecosystems have been, and are different story. It appears now that humans of new hunting technology. In now, composed of different species, mammoths survived the Pleistocene- Australia, 46,000 years ago, when peo- but they share a similar set of func- Holocene shift. For the first 7000 years ple first arrived, 23 animal species van- tional types or guilds. These include of the Holocene, they persisted on ished, all but one heavier than 45 kg grasses, elephants, horses, rodents, Wrangell Island in the Arctic Ocean. (about 100 pounds). In America, dung-beetles, large cats, vultures, and Bison, horses, and musk oxen also lived 12,000 years ago, hunters began using so on. The greater the diversity within in the north of Siberia in the Holocene. small, sharp lances and arrowheads. and among these functional types, the Horses and musk oxen lived there even After that, 70% of the large animal more active the biological cycles and up to historical times. species vanished. By the time people the more successful and extensive the started recording their own history, ecosystem can become. In Alaska, bison survived throughout bison, aurochs, dziggetai (koulan), the entire Holocene. They disappeared wild horses, saiga, and many other In the Pleistocene, grassland ecosys- only in the historical period at the herbivores had already been extermi- tems occupied about half of the world's hands of human hunters. Alaskan nated from the steppes and prairies. land mass. Homo species emerged in native elders still tell stories that chron- these pasture ecosystems, where they icle the taste of bison meat. Another Out to Pasture left tools, weapons, cave paintings, and indication that climate change has had Just as the great herbivore herds disap- other signs of their presence. Starting little to do with the survival of bison is peared at the end of the Pleistocene, with unpretentious ambitions to sur- that in the past century, bison were so did the northern grasslands that vive in a hostile environment, Homo brought back to Alaska, and they have nurtured them. One possible explana- ended up assuming the powerful role been breeding there successfully. tion for this is simply that the cold, What's more, when arid climate of the steppes changed musk oxen were into a humid one, turning the steppes reintroduced from into mossy tundra. However, the the coldest, driest Holocene climate shift was not unique. islands of the Similar shifts occurred in previous Canadian Arctic to interglacial periods, yet these did not Alaska in the 20th cause catastrophic landscape recon- century, they imme- structions. diately began to breed actively, even During the last glacial, when mam- though the climate in moths still roamed on the steppes that Alaska was warmer covered Europe, the annual precipita- and wetter. The same tion there was 200 to 250 mm, and thing happened January temperatures were in the wherever musk oxen range of – 25O to 35OC. Such climate were reintroduced in conditions are similar to those of pres- Siberia. Even in the ent-day northeastern Siberia. By many west Norwegian cli- criteria, the present climate there is For the past decade, author Sergey Zimov has been working to mate, musk oxen not humid, but rather is characteristic reconstitute an ancient tundra-steppe ecosystem in the Republic have prospered. of an arid steppe. According to all of Yakutia. Photo by D. Berjak.

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 9 Endangered Ecosystems weather stations of northeast Siberia, through the ecosystem. All of these In the southern steppes, the situation the annual radiation input is about factors indicate that moss communi- is different. There, the warmer soil twice what is necessary to evaporate ties, once they are in place, create and allows for more rapid decomposition the annual precipitation. This only sustain their own environment and do of plant litter even in the absence of adds to the mystery of why Siberia is not depend so much on particular cli- herbivores. In the north today, the soil no longer dominated by a grassy, mate conditions. is too cold to foster such decomposi- steppe landscape. tion, which means that the steppe They are quite vulnerable to physical ecosystem can be stable there only The physiological traits associated disturbance, however, and this is with the help of herbivores that with Holocene vegetation partially where their ecological connection to decompose organic matter in their explain the vegetation changes that herbivores comes in. stomachs and that disturb mosses. coincided with loss of the Pleistocene Today's African savannas, in which megafauna. Plant transpiration The Future of the Past trees and shrubs have supplanted accounts for most of the water loss When mosses are destroyed on loess grasses in much the same way that from landscapes, and high transpira- soils, the site becomes overgrown with mossy tundra has supplanted grasses tion rates are associated with more grasses within 1 to 2 years. The grasses in Siberia, demonstrate this principle. productive plants. Rates of water loss then dry out the soil through their These savannas would disappear with- must therefore have been high in the high transpiration rates, creating a out large herbivores, which are present north when productive Pleistocene steppe-like ecosystem. But when her- there in large numbers. The large num- meadow and steppe vegetation pre- bivore populations are low, grass pro- bers of animals on African savannas vailed. As a result, vast amounts of ductivity begins to decrease within a amaze many people. However, similar water were sucked up from the few years, because grass litter accumu- animal densities exist in northern and ground, resulting in dry conditions, lates on the soil surface, shading and middle latitudes. For example, at Elk while the plants themselves insulating the soil. In turn, soil fertility Island National Park in Canada, about sequestered nutrients to drive their declines. As a result, shrubs and moss- 60 bison browse on each square kilo- own productivity. es, which have lower nutrient require- meter of grassland. The animal is ments than grasses, ultimately become much bigger than the gnus and zebras Holocene vegetation, in contrast, is dominant. of Africa. Forests in the park are pre- dominated by unproductive moss and served only by strongly controlling the shrubs. This type of vegetation does In the mammoth ecosystem, the col- number of animals. not transpire enough moisture to dry lective behavior of millions of compet- out the soil. Moss does not even have itive herbivores maintained the grass- This is why I believe that the changing roots. This leads to wet conditions lands. In the winter, the animals ate the climate of the Holocene would have conducive to the growth of mosses, grasses that grew the previous summer. had little bearing on the survival of the which account for a substantial pro- All the while they fueled plant produc- mammoth ecosystem. In some places, portion of the northern Siberian bio- tivity by fertilizing the soil with their such as sandy and stony ground, trees mass. Water-saturated soils inhibit manure, and they trampled down moss and shrubs would have appeared. And decomposition of biomass and there- and shrubs, preventing these plants that might have caused changes in the fore the availability of nutrients to from gaining a foothold. It is my con- relative proportions of horses and support plant growth. What's more, tention that the northern grasslands moose. But overall, if climate were the mosses insulate the ground efficiently would have remained viable in the only controlling factor, the total pas- – a 20-cm layer of moss prevents the Holocene had the great herds of ture productivity and the number of underlying frozen soil from thawing. Pleistocene animals remained in place herbivores should have increased in This also has the effect of sequestering to maintain the landscape. the Holocene. Support for this view nutrients and preventing their cycling comes from the climate history that is chronicled in the Greenland ice sheet. It shows a sharp warming and dramatic increase of precipitation ~14,700 years ago, leading to conditions that resemble the present climate. Even so, in the north of Siberia, mammoth populations soared at this time.

This view means that the present Holocene climate of northern Siberia, particularly near the present tree line, is likely just now to be optimal for the mammoth ecosystem. If The water-logged landscape of the Kolyma Lowland, where Pleistocene Park is located on we accept the argument that the pas- 160 square kilometers. Photo by S. Zimov. ture landscapes were destroyed

10 Russian Conservation News Endangered Ecosystems because herbivore populations were low. Therefore, their influence on veg- bon content of 2.5%, the soil of the decimated by human hunting, then it etation is small. The first step for mammoth ecosystem harbors about stands to reason that those land- Pleistocene Park, which we are just 500 gigatons of carbon, 2.5 times that scapes can be reconstituted by the now initiating, is to gather the surviv- of all rainforests combined. Moreover, judicious return of appropriate herbi- ing megafauna of the mammoth this carbon is the relatively labile prod- vore communities. ecosystem (initially without predators) uct of plant roots that were incorpo- within the part of the parkland that is rated from productive steppe vegeta- In northern Siberia, mainly in the rich in grassland. The second step will tion during the Pleistocene. As soon as Republic of Yakutia, plains that once be to increase the herbivore density the ice melts and the soil thaws, were covered by tens of meters of sufficiently to influence the vegetation microbes will begin converting this mammoth steppe soils now occupy a and soil. As animal densities increase, long-sequestered soil carbon into car- million square kilometers. The climate the fenced boundary will be expanded. bon dioxide under aerobic conditions of the territory is near optimal for or into methane under anaerobic con- northern grassland ecosystems. Thus, The most important phase of the pro- ditions. The release of these gases will in principle, the ancient mammoth gram will be the reintroduction of only exacerbate and accelerate the ecosystem could be restored there. bison from Canada and subsequently, greenhouse effect. when the herbivores are sufficiently In Yakutia, we are trying to do just abundant, the acclimatization of Preventing this scenario from happen- that. The government has adopted a Siberian tigers. In many regions of the ing could be facilitated by restoring program to restore the republic's for- Amur River basin, where this formida- Pleistocene-like conditions in which mer biodiversity. One thrust of this ble predator survives, January temper- grasses and their root systems stabilize effort has been through the nonprofit ature is as low as -25O to -30OC. The the soil. The albedo or ability to reflect organization of Pleistocene Park of tigers' survival there is limited more by incoming sunlight skyward of such which I am a founding member on poaching and herbivore density than ecosystems is high, so warming from 160 km2 of Kolyma lowland. One-third by climate. Scientifically, Pleistocene solar radiation also is reduced. And of the territory is meadow, one-third is Park is important because it directly with lots of herbivores present, much forest, and one-third is willow shrub- tests the role of large herbivores in cre- of the wintertime snow would be land. Today, many of the animals of the ating and maintaining grassland trampled, exposing the ground to mammoth ecosystem and grasses ecosystems, something that can only colder temperatures that prevent ice remain in northern Yakutia. be surmised but not proven from the from melting. All of this suggests that paleorecord. reconstructed grassland ecosystems, Reindeer, moose, Yakutian horses, such as the ones we are working on in recently reintroduced musk oxen, There is more than just scientific dis- Pleistocene Park, could prevent per- hares, marmots, and ground squirrels covery at stake here. Northern Siberia mafrost from thawing and thereby forage for vegetation, and predators, will influence the character of global mitigate some negative consequences including wolves, bears, lynxes, climate change. If greenhouse gas- of climate warming. wolverines, foxes, polar foxes, and induced warming continues, the per- sables, prey on the herbivores. mafrost will melt. At present, the Sergey A. Zimov is the Director of the However, strong hunting pressure has frozen soils lock up a vast store of Northeast Science Station in Chersky in kept the overall number of animals organic carbon. With an average car- the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia).

The Pleistocene Park project tests the role of large herbivores, like these rugged Yakutian horses, in creating and maintaining grassland ecosystems. Photo by S. Zimov.

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 11 Endangered Ecosystems Coastal Residents on Russia's Chukotka Peninsula Report the Effects of Climate Change

By Melissa Mooza

Note from the editors: A version of this article was previously published in the 01.06 issue of the Arctic Bulletin, a quarterly publication of the WWF International Arctic Programme.

ccupying the far northeastern Ocorner of the Eurasian continent, Russia's Chukotka Peninsula juts into the Arctic and Pacific Oceans, approaching North America. Its shores – washed by the Chukchi Sea in the north and by the Bering Sea in the south and east – are dotted by small coastal settlements, many of no more than a few hundred hearty souls. Largely inhabited by indigenous Chuchki and Siberian Yupik people, these villages preserve the region's ancient coastal hunting and fishing cultures.

Here, people's lives are shaped by the natural world. Its resources are their lifeline. In this part of the Russian Arctic, traditional skills and knowledge – and observations about the environment – are passed from generation to generation. Local residents' insights into the natural world reflect past experience. As a recent WWF cli- Coastal villages participating in WWF-Russia's Chukotka Climate Change Survey. mate change survey indicated, they Map by M. Dubinin. may also offer an important glimpse into the future. Under the auspices of WWF-Russia's ties such as reindeer herding and sea Climate Change Programme, Vladilen hunting. Kavry asked each of the 17 Kavry, a local Chukotkan hunter, trav- survey participants a series of ques- eled to seven coastal communities tions about their observations of cli- during the summer and fall of 2005 to mate change. Their responses were gather information about residents' recorded on a dictaphone and subse- perceptions of climate change. Kavry's quently compiled for WWF by Andrei peregrinations, made difficult by the Boltunov, a polar bear expert from the remoteness of his destinations since Moscow-based All-Russian Institute some settlements are accessible only for Nature Protection. He is familiar by plane, took him to Ryrkaipii and with the survey region from previous Vankarem along the peninsula's north- field work there. Participants' ern shore. He also visited five villages responses demonstrated that people along the Bering Sea coast: Enmelen, in Chukotka's local coastal communi- Nuligran, Sireniki, Yanrakynnot, and ties have noticed signs of climate Lorino. change, and that it is palpably affecting their lives. In each of these communities, Kavry Vladilen Kavry, pictured here, traveled to met with men and women represent- Across the region, survey participants seven of Chukotka's coastal communities ing different age and ethnic groups – commented on changing seasonal on behalf of WWF-Russia to interview local Chukchi, Siberian Yupik, and Russian. weather patterns and on the increased residents about their perceptions of climate The majority of his contacts were pri- unpredictability and instability of the change. © WWF-Russia. marily involved in subsistence activi- weather. Respondents noted shorter

12 Russian Conservation News Endangered Ecosystems

the physical viously observed in their region. condition of Uncharacteristic mammal species the peninsula's included moose, lynx, badger, and familiar land- beaver. Several sea hunters from two scapes. With villages along the Bering Sea, Lorino increased tem- and Nuligran, reported having caught peratures, sharks in their nets. Survey partici- frozen ground, pants also noticed the appearance of snow fields, uncharacteristic birds such as swal- and frazils have lows and a species resembling spar- begun to melt. rows or swifts. Rivers and lagoons have Survey participants also reported also begun to changes in the habitat and, in some melt earlier. cases, behavior of more typical species. Observed They said that the lack of coastal sea- changes in sea- ice in the early fall has forced walrus to ice, however, come ashore and form large rookeries Sea hunter Anatoly Ranavtagan, here with a young friend, described are by far the on the Arctic coast. In the past the uncharacteristic wintertime rains and periods of thaw. © WWF-Russia. greatest con- walrus remained on the ice and sel- cern. Sea-ice dom came ashore. The oldest survey winters, observing that the fall-winter extent has declined and its quality and participant, Tilmyet, an 82-year-old transition is occurring later and spring timing are changing. In the village of Chukchi sea hunter from the village of weather arriving earlier. Many partici- Sireniki, one of the few remaining tra- Vankarem, added that walrus often pants described the deviation as ditional Siberian Yupik settlements in arrive ashore tired, having had no approximately a month on either end Chukotka, Vladimir Petrovich where to rest enroute. of winter. Magtagin, a 71-year-old Typykhkak, a 41-year-old Siberian Chukchi hunter from the village of Yupik sea hunter, commented that Based on survey responses, it is clear Vankarem on the peninsula's arctic “the sea begins to freeze in November that climate change is affecting the lives coast, remarked that winter was begin- only, while before it did so in of Chukotka's coastal residents as it ning a full two months later. He said September.” impacts traditional subsistence activi- that, while the winter frosts had previ- ties such as hunting, reindeer herding, ously begun in September, they were The change in distribution of numer- fishing, and gathering. Changes in the now only taking hold in November. ous fauna species was another com- extent and timing of sea-ice make for a He and other survey participants also mon theme. Survey respondents noted shorter hunting season. Grigory observed the more frequent occur- having encountered animals not pre- Mikhailovich Rykhtyn, a 37-year old rence of weather phenomena that either did not occur previously or occurred only rarely. Magtagin cited frequent thunderstorms.

Anatoly Ranavtagin, a 64-year-old sea hunter from Lorino on the peninsula's eastern Bering Sea coast, recalled the uncharacteristic occurrence of strong snow storms and blizzards, as well as wintertime rains. He said that “Earlier, winter was calm and cold, and the location of the village was good….Now east- erly winds carrying blizzards dominate, and for several days at a time. Snow is more abundant and there were never such snow banks in the village before. Only in December do we leave for the ice edge, while previously we left in November. Sometimes there are periods of thaw and rains in the winter.” The lack of coastal ice in the early fall has forced Chukotka's walrus to come ashore, where Survey respondents also observed they often form large haul-outs. With nowhere to rest during their long swim, the walrus numerous warming-related changes in often arrive on land exhausted. Photo by V. Kavry.

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 13 Endangered Ecosystems

Chukchi sea hunter and reindeer herder from Vankarem, explained that, while people had previously been able to hunt on the ice all summer long, it now retreats altogether by July 15. “There is no more good sea-ice,” he lamented.

Experienced Chukchi reindeer herders were all too aware of climate change's effects on reindeer. In the village of Lorino, herders Maya Nikolaevna Nupenrulet and Yevgenii Vasilievich Tatata mentioned that ice (formed by freezing rain, wet snow, and other climate change-influenced icing events) now covers much of the ground in the winter, making it difficult for reindeer to access pasturage. Another Lorino- based herder, 71-year-old Vladimir Grigorievich Tynarakhtygirgin, suggested that an increasing number of reindeer were perishing in winter's more frequent and severe blizzards. People region-wide have also observed Responses given by Tilmyet, the survey's oldest participant, reflected eighty-two years of changes in berry growth. Even along careful observation. © WWF-Russia. the arctic coast, where previously berries sometimes did not ripen at all, our understanding of the climactic nous peoples in the future and suggest they have begun ripening more quickly, transition taking place in the Arctic. the urgent need for action by Arctic before people can gather them. They This survey and others like it highlight nations, and indeed the world com- also commented that their taste has climate trends and deliver additional munity, to help indigenous peoples changed. evidence of the profound changes tak- adapt to the unavoidable impacts of ing place in the earth's far northern climate change. Such testimony to climate change, regions. They also offer eye-opening offered by people with a close connec- insight into how profoundly these Melissa Mooza is the Assistant Editor tion to the environment, is valuable to changes may affect the region's indige- of Russian Conservation News.

Chukotka's fishermen and sea hunters face an uncertain future. © WWF-Russia.

14 Russian Conservation News Ecological Tourism Ecological Tourism

Encouraging Whale Watching and Marine Ecotourism in Russia

By Erich Hoyt

he links between ecotourism and rials is Russian and foreign individuals, Currently, there is a focus in Russia on Tconservation are well known. companies, and conservation organi- “the bottom line” – the economic fea- Ecotourism can educate the public zations, as well as communities, sibility and earning power of any new and attract income to local communi- tourism promotion bodies, and ideas and developments. This extends ties and even parks, protected areas tourism agencies, who want to assist in to wildlife and conservation, so that and other conservation projects. setting up such tours in Russian projects that can earn money will be Ecotourists can pave the way toward waters. considered more favourably. On the an appreciation of wildlife and the other hand, no commercial tourism environment in local communities. In Tourism is steadily growing in Russia. activities are allowed in zapovedniks some Earthwatch-type projects, eco- According to the World Tourism (strict nature reserves), potentially tourists help fund and participate in Organisation, from 2002 to 2004, posing a conflict to tourism develop- vital research. about 23 million people per year ment in some prime ecological areas arrived in Russia as visitors, up from that could be tourist attractions. Over the past two years, the Far East 18.5 million in 1999. The expenditures However, ecotourism with an educa- Russia Orca Project (FEROP) – spon- by tourists in Russia represent about tional or scientific basis is being sored by WDCS, the Whale and 1.5% of the country's gross domestic allowed and even encouraged in some Dolphin Conservation Society – has product (GDP). Yet whale watching zapovedniks and of course this kind of looked specifically at marine eco- and marine ecotourism are at a fledg- tourism has some economic impact. tourism, including whale watching, in ling stage in Russia, with somewhere Whale watching and ecotourism terms of its status and potential in between a few hundred to a few thou- would seem to provide an ideal Russia. WDCS wanted to identify indi- sand people participating each year. opportunity to earn funds from viduals, groups, and companies WDCS's project is the first to look at benign wildlife activities. The chal- involved in marine ecotourism, as well the status and potential of marine eco- lenge is to ensure that there is good as to help others who are trying to ini- tourism and to evaluate the obstacles management and that conservation, tiate such tours. It looked at the feasi- to developing whale watching. education, and scientific benefits are bility of setting up whale watching along Russia's vast coastline. And, most important of all, WDCS wanted to set out a detailed strategy for establishing marine ecotours that would be benefi- cial not only to the operators, but of maximum educational value and enjoyment to participants, and with scientific and conservation benefits to local communities, marine ecosystems, and the marine mammals themselves.

As part of the project, WDCS produced a bilingual 84-page guide to setting up whale watching and marine ecotours in Russia. It also prepared, with FEROP, a waterproof fold-out guide to all of Russia's marine mammals (provided free to all subscribers in this issue of Russian Conservation News). The primary audience for these mate- Orcas in Avacha Gulf. Photo provided by the Far East Russia Orca Project (FEROP-WDCS).

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 15 Ecological Tourism

of the whales, dolphins and porpoises – the cetaceans. The broader marine mammal watching or marine ecotourism category refers to various marine mammals, as well as seabirds and the marine ecosystem. In practice, whale watch tours usually include seabirds and other marine mammals as available. It is strategically useful in terms of delivering a successful tour, as well as valuable in terms of education, to have a broader-based ecological marine approach for every tour.

At present, whale watching in Russia occurs in two main areas of the country: the White Sea and Kamchatka. In the White Sea, Solovetsky Island has Searching for orcas in Avacha Gulf on Russia's Kamchatka Peninsula. Photo provided by the long had significant tourism due to Far East Russia Orca Project (FEROP-WDCS). the famous site of the ancient monastery where pilgrims often visit. an integral part of a business plan as later. WDCS and a coalition of other Solovetsky Island is also where belu- well as part of a sustainable manage- groups within as well as outside of gas come in close to shore. Here, ment plan. Russia, plus about 25 killer whale sci- Professor Vsevolod M. Belkovich of entists from around the world, have the Shirshov Institute of Oceanology Russia has a rich diversity of marine strongly protested the continuing of the Russian Academy of Sciences mammals, with 29 species of ceta- plans to capture Russian orcas. and his students have researched be- ceans (whales, dolphins, and porpois- lugas for more than a decade. There is es), 14 pinniped species (seals, sea Several pinniped species are hunted land-based whale watching on lions, fur seals, and walrus), sea otters, and killed in much larger numbers Solovetsky Island offered by Finnish and polar bears. (See the enclosed than the cetaceans. Quotas currently and Russian companies and a Dutch waterproof marine mammal guide.) reach nearly 85,000 seals including NGO. The three key companies ope- However, one problem will be deal- the ringed (Pusa hispida), ribbon rating these tours are the Karelika ing with the quotas for capturing and (Histriophoca fasciata), largha (Phoca Travel Company (www.karelika.ru) killing marine mammals, which are largha), bearded (Erignathus barba- and Nordic Travel LLC, both based in not conducive to the development of tus) and Caspian (Pusa caspica) seals Russia, and Kon-Tiki Tours (www.kon- a successful wildlife tourism industry. (with 35,000 ringed seals alone). There tiki.fi) based in Helsinki. Ecovolunteer are also quotas for 10 Pacific white- Nature Travel www.ecovolunteer.org), From 2002-2005, government- sided dolphins (Lagenorhynchus obli- which is registered in the Netherlands approved marine mammal quotas in quidens), 5 bottlenose dolphins but has offices and cooperation in Russia have ranged from 6 to 10 takes (Tursiops truncatus), and 5 pilot many other countries, also runs trips of orcas (Orcinus orca) and 1,200 or whales (Globicephala macrorhynchus) to Solovetsky. Approximately 200 more belugas (Delphinapterus leucas). “for scientific and cultural-educative whale watchers per summer have Belugas are of concern because the purposes,” while a quota of 2,000 wal- visited Solovetsky Island since 2001. numbers are so high, while orcas are rus (Odobenus rosmarus) has been Local residents offer tourists accom- known to live in small populations given for the subsistence needs of modations, bicycle rental, and sou- that can be negatively impacted par- indigenous peoples in the North and venir items for purchase. Income to ticularly when breeding females are Far East of the Russian Federation. In local villages from these services has removed. many cases, on socioeconomic terms been relatively small, but significant. alone, there are arguably many more Rauno Lauhakangas, a Finn who initi- In 2003, a Russian facility on the Black valuable uses for marine mammals tated beluga watching trips on Sea that has captured belugas and bot- than as hunters' quarry and removals Solovetsky Island in 2001, together tlenose dolphins tried to capture orcas for captivity. An alternative to remov- with other partners in Russia inclu- with the idea of starting a breeding ing animals from nature is to investi- ding Dr. Belkovich and travel compa- program within Russia. A young gate and promote the whale watching nies, have launched special projects to female drowned in the nets during the and marine ecotourism option help build trails and whale watch capture off southeast Kamchatka, and throughout Russia. towers on Solovetsky Island, and another female was taken and flown developed new proposals to start be- nine time zones to the Black Sea facili- The term whale watching refers to luga watching in other coastal areas of ty where she also died, some 13 days land- or boat-based tours to watch any the White Sea.

16 Russian Conservation News Ecological Tourism

In Kamchatka, wildlife and volcano and balance – a modest level of devel- High quality whale watching offers tourism is gaining rapidly in popularity. opment – to preserve the environ- both an educational and scientific The first whale watching was done ment that allows ecotourism to flour- component. The operator and natu- from cruise ships coming in to ish. The worst thing would be to allow ralist should be keen to teach people Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. Several mass tourism and competition about whales. In some parts of the tour companies, mainly Russian, are between operators to devalue the world, the best operators invite stu- now offering day-long trips to Avacha marine mammal watching “product” dents and other interested people Gulf during the summer where orcas, as has happened in certain other parts from their local communities to see minke (Balaenoptera acutorostrata) of the world (e.g., Tenerife, Canary the whales, free or at a reduced rate, as and sometimes gray (Eschrichtius Islands, and Taiwan). a good will gesture. At minimum, robustus) or sperm whales (Physeter operators and their naturalists should macrocephalus) can be seen, as well as Russia can achieve high standards in keep a logbook with accurate infor- Dall's porpoises (Phocoenoides dalli), the marine ecotourism sector. The mation on sightings and take photo- cormorants (Phalacrocorax sp.), challenge is to limit the human foot- graphs useful for identification of indi- puffins (Fratercula sp.), and other print while developing fully the range vidual animals, which can be con- seabirds. Last September, the Far East of possible tours. Each tour should tributed to photo-ID programs now or Russia Orca Project was asked for the have high customer care levels, with in the future. first time to help guide a whale watch solid educational benefits, as well as tour for Japanese photographers. It research and conservation benefits to Whale watching and marine eco- was valuable for the project to be able the species. At WDCS, it is referred to tourism in Russia are still in their infan- to introduce these Japanese visitors to as high quality whale watching cy, but have tremendous potential – the whales and their conservation (HQWW). from tusked narwhals (Monodon needs, and the visitors also made a monoceros) to the all white, curious solid financial contribution to the Probably the most important key indi- singing belugas and those dynamic FEROP research. cator of high quality whale-watching social mammals and predators, the is the presence of a good naturalist, or orcas. You can find feeding gray Whale watching in Russia has many nature guide. Ideally, this guide should whales and humpbacks (Megaptera obstacles. These begin with difficult be enthusiastic and personable, com- novaeangliae) bubble-netting or flip- logistics including the climate, which bining experience of cetaceans at sea ping their tail flukes, as well as the rare results in a short summer tourist season, with good background knowledge bowhead whale (Balaena mysticetus). long distances to reach coastal areas, about marine species and ecology. A There are pods of bottlenose dolphins and the lack of infrastructure for good naturalist can make or break a and Pacific white-sided dolphins in tourism in most of the areas where trip, turning even a day with no, few, many locations and the explosive, fran- marine mammals are found. Cruise ship or distant whale sightings into an tic Dall's porpoises, ever on the move. tours would seem to solve some of exciting, memorable adventure. And don’t forget the majestic walrus, these problems, yet few ships are avail- noisy sea lions (Eumetopias jubatus), able to access the vast Arctic coastline. and playful sea otters (Enhydra lutris). Cruise ship tours also tend to leave few The challenge will be to create a new benefits in local communities and may brand of high quality Russian marine be affordable only to affluent tourists. ecotourism and whale watching – What are needed are appropriately something that will attract ecotourists scaled economic development initia- from around the world as well as from tives, ideally with input from conserva- the large cities of Russia – and keep tion NGOs and local tourism agencies them coming back once they try it. armed with marketing data. The situation for setting up tour operations and Erich Hoyt is Senior Research Fellow, working in the growing Russian travel Whale and Dolphin Conservation industry is becoming less complex, or at Society, co-director of the Far East Russia least more clarified, yet it remains Orca Project and a member of the IUCN essential for non-Russian individuals or SSC Cetacean Specialist Group. He is the companies to work with a Russian part- author of 15 books. For additional infor- ner. Other obstacles are those common mation about his work, please consult to whale watching and marine eco- the following websites: www.cetacean- tourism locations around the world, habitat.org; www.wdcs.org; www.rus- such as learning about marine mammal sianorca.com; and www.erichhoyt.com. distribution, and designing, branding, The bilingual (Russian-English) edition of and marketing the tours. Whale Watching and Marine Ecotourism Building a trail on Solovetsky Island that will lead tourists to a beluga watching area. in Russia, referenced in this article, is For ecotourism to work, it will be nec- Photo courtesy of Dennis Maximov and available as a downloadable PDF from essary to maintain an acceptable scale Sergei Filenko. the above websites.

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 17 Ecological Tourism

The Great Baikal Trail

By Andrei Suknev

he Great Baikal Trail T(GBT) will be a system of 2,000 kilometers of trails circumnavi- gating Lake Baikal. It will unite some of the region's many attractions and provide for safe movement of tourists along the shores of Lake Baikal. The Russian non-profit organization Great Baikal Trail has been working since 2002 on this long-term (2002-2020), multi-purpose, comprehensive project. Its goal is to facilitate sustainable and ecologically oriented tourism in the Lake Baikal region.

More than the construction and improvement of trails, the GBT project includes restoration of forests, spawn- ing areas, and damaged cultural monuments as well as construction of barri- er-free environments in cities and villages. The project will promote local community involvement in ecotourism and organize independent monitoring of Lake Baikal's shore, using ecotourists, volunteers, and local communities. By promoting access to public lands, the GBT project will encourage environmental awareness and a sense of communal ownership of and responsibility for natural resources. This will increases the quality of life for Existing and proposed segments of the Great Baikal Trail. local residents by providing sustainable Map by M. Dubinin. economic development. The GBT project Finally, the GBT project supports will afford valu- “obstacle-free” recreational environ- able opportunities ments for physically challenged for environmental people in the most popular destina- and conservation tions. education for volunteer groups, The History of the Great particularly youth Baikal Trail groups, participat- Creating a trail around Lake Baikal has ing in trail con- been a long-held dream. Oleg struction and Kirillovich Gusev, the famous writer, maintenance. It photographer, and scientist who will also assist in worked in Barguzinsky Zapovednik preserving and for more than 30 years and created reviving the tradi- Baikalo-Lensky Zapovednik, was an tional cultures of early advocate. After visiting the some of the Appalachian Trail in the U.S., he real- Picturesque views of Lake Baikal inspire volunteers in their work. region's indige- ized that creating a system of trails on Photo by the Great Baikal Trail Association. nous peoples. Baikal would help protect the lake.

18 Russian Conservation News Ecological Tourism

drainage systems, and retaining walls During trail construction, ecotourists are carefully weighed to consider the are the international and Russian vol- natural landscape as well as human unteers who work on a trail. traffic. Constructing good trails limits International participants typically the number of unauthorized trails. come to Russia on 30-day tourist This helps protect the landscape from visas. They generally spend 5-7 days soil erosion, restore previously violated in transit, 14 days participating in the territories, and maintain quiet zones volunteer project, and 7-10 days on for wild animals. an eco-tour, which they may arrange through local tourist companies or Ecotourism Development plan themselves. During their stay, the The GBT project creates two types of volunteers – both Russian and inter- ecotourism opportunities. The first is national – patronize local establish- during trail construction and the sec- ments and purchase locally made ond when tourists utilize the trail and items, thus contributing to the its infrastructure. regional economy.

A short break on a long trail. Photo by the Great Baikal Trail Association. Summer 2006 Great Baikal Trail Projects Note from the Editors: The following six Great Baikal Trail projects are a repre- Valentine Bryansky, an Irkutsk-based sentative sampling of those implemented during the 2006 summer. alpinist and writer, has been another notable advocate since the 1970s. “Atsagatsky Buddhist Monastery” (Atsagatsky Buddhist Monastery, Republic of Buryatia) The current GBT project was con- Building “stupas,” white religious monuments approximately 2-3 feet tall, located ceived in 1997 during the implemen- in monasteries and other sites used in Buddhist rituals. Volunteers learn about Buddhist traditions and life at the Atsagatsky Buddhist Monastery, next to which tation of the Bed, Breakfast, and Baikal they live in cabins. (B&B&B) Project, which was part of the Replication of Lessons Learned “Bolshoi Island” (Bolshoi Island on the Kitoi River in Angarsk, Irkutsk Region) (ROLL) Project of the U.S. AID-funded Constructing a trail and installing additional piers and camp sites on Bolshoi Island, separated from the city of Angarsk by a broad fast-flowing river and acces- Institute for Sustainable Communities. sible only by boat. Volunteers may stay on the island in tents or with local families In 2000, Ed Gee, then the Deputy in Angarsk. Forest Supervisor of the Lake Tahoe “Northern Start” Basin Management Unit, supported (Slyudyankiye Lakes, 30 km south of the city of Severobaikalsk on the northwest coast of Lake Baikal, Republic of Buryatia) the project. A year later a delegation Working with local children to improve two trails of ecological, cultural, and his- from Lake Tahoe visited Lake Baikal, toric significance. One trail leads to abandoned mines that were used in the gulag and in 2002 U.S. AID and the U.S. labor camp system in the 1930s. The second trail follows the Baikal shoreline for Forest Service awarded grants to sup- 14 kilometers to the village of Baikalskoye, the oldest Russian settlement on Lake port the work of 12 Russian and Baikal. American specialists to develop the “Krokhalinaya Bay” (Zabaikalsky National Park, Krokhalinaya Bay, GBT concept. Chivyrkuiski Bay, Republic of Buryatia) Improving the trail through more than 50 kilometers of taiga on the Barguzin The GBT project began building trails Mountain Range from the settlement of Barguzin to Krokhalinaya Bay, including in 2003 with 136 volunteers (87 constructing resting areas and small bridges. Russian and 49 from foreign countries). “With Our Own Hands-2” (Village of Bolshoye Goloustnoye, Irkutsk Region) Seventy kilometers of trails were built Building a nature trail to a nearby lake and mountain, volunteers will also learn in 2003, and, with twice the number of traditional Buryat and Russian folk crafts, including basketry and crocheting, from volunteers, 155 kilometers the follow- local master craftsmen, while participating in traditional subsistence activities like ing year. In 2005, GBT organized 29 haymaking and berry gathering. projects. “Hot Spring Shore” (Khakusy Hot Springs Region, the northeast shore of Lake Baikal, Republic of Buryatia) Every project begins with the goal of Improving an 8.5-kilometer-long stretch of trail leading to Cape Turali, which has ensuring that trail sections contribute special status as a monument of nature, while staying in small wooden cottages on the Baikal shore reached by boat from Severobaikalsk. The cape's name, which in to the preservation of Lake Baikal. The the local Evenk language means “singing sands,” expresses its most distinctive fea- trail construction techniques used ture. When the surf or wind is strong, a sound recalling someone gently stroking have a minimum impact on nature violin strings can be heard on the sandy beaches. and decisions about width and surfac- ing of trails and the number and quali- Source: Great Baikal Trail website (http://www.greatbaikaltrail.ru) ty of special structures like bridges,

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 19 Ecological Tourism

After the trails are built, ecotourists are the alpinists, hikers, horseback riders, cyclists, and skiers who use them. With enhanced trail quality and promotion of GBT, visits will increase particularly among retirees and physically challenged people who were previously deterred by the lack of suitable trails. In some places the trail will accommodate wheelchairs while other segments will be appropriate for mountain bikes, horses, reindeer, yaks, and camels.

Creating Training and Education Opportunities Three organizations have emerged as the GBT project's primary partners: “Earth Island Institute” in San Francisco, California (USA); “Earth Corps” in Seattle, Washington (USA); and “Baikal Plan” in Dresden, Germany. The GBT project has joined with Earth Corps to create volunteer opportunities. GBT Volunteers participating in a project implemented on the southeastern shore of Baikal, not volunteer brigades have interned in far from the village of Turka, gather around a campfire after a hard day's work. Photo by the Washington State with Earth Corps for Great Baikal Trail Association. four years, constructing and maintaining trails, restoring salmon habitats liaison with local authorities. The GBT ice is valued in job applicants. This is and wetlands, and ridding Seattle of the project intends to create opportunities not yet the case in Russia. The GBT exotic plant species English liana. for capable young people to learn project is helping to develop public These volunteers have become trainers project management and other skills service in Russia by creating and pro- and guides, transferring American- which can be transferred to other moting positive volunteer work experi- acquired experience, ideas, and tech- projects and activities to promote sus- ences. Non-profit voluntary organiza- nologies to work on Lake Baikal. tainable development. tions cannot replace professional organizations, but they can aid in their With more funds, the GBT project Educational systems in the U.S. and work and create cost-savings. In GBT's could double or triple the number of Europe often incorporate public service case, the economic benefit of volunteer its annual projects. Each GBT project components as a requirement for high brigades is clear. Volunteer labor saves has its own budget, management, and school and college students. This serv- approximately 40% of a project's cost.

Promoting Stakeholder Great Baikal Trail Project Results, 2003-2005 Collaboration The GBT project works with those Over the past three summers, hundreds of volunteers contributed hundreds who ask for its assistance. Volunteer of hours to build recreational trails that are clear, safe, well-marked, and well- brigades are sent only where agree- monitored. ments have been reached with the “owner” of the territory. The best way 2003 2004 2005 Total to avert conflicts during trail construction is to discuss the trail's location Number of projects 6142848 and standards with all stakeholders. Number of Volunteers 136 345 604 1,085 Representatives of local government, International Volunteers 49 120 163 332 forestry, business, non-profit organizations, and the local community come Russian Volunteers 87 174 336 597 together to pose questions and discuss Local Residents Involved - 51 105 156 issues. The GBT project will positively Kilometers of Trails Built 70 145 170 385 affect the local economy while preserving Lake Baikal's environment. Hours of Volunteer Time (app.) 8,160 22,700 40,250 71,110

Andrei Suknev is the founder of the Source: Great Baikal Trail website (http://www.greatbaikaltrail.ru) Great Baikal Trail Project.

20 Russian Conservation News For Discussion For Discussion

Avian Flu: Russian Official Policies Raise Concerns By Evgeny Kuznetsov

he appearance of avian flu is not Tsurprising as such flu outbreaks have been common in many countries, including the Russian Federa- tion. Until recently, however, only specialists knew about these cases, and people worldwide did not worry about avian flu and its possible impacts on humankind. All this changed in 2004 when information about people dying from avian flu in Southeast Asia became widely known.

The highly pathogenic strain of avian influenza A (H5N1) – also called “H5N1 virus” – which since 1997 has afflicted domestic birds, began to cause death in Russian regions with registered outbreaks of highly pathogenic avian influenza A (H5N1). wild birds, which rarely happened Map by M. Dubinin. before, and, more importantly, in people. Of the 228 confirmed human cases mately 40%. The main danger for perties and change from an avian flu of H5N1 virus worldwide reported to humans is that this strain might mutate into a human flu. This has not hap- the World Health Organization by June and acquire properties that would allow pened yet, but such a danger does exist, 20, 2006, 134 people have died, yielding it to be transferred from human to and no one can accurately predict its an average recovery rate of approxi- human, that is, acquire pandemic pro- likelihood or its possible consequences.

Influenza Types, Subtypes, and Strains • Two of the three prominent subtypes infecting both • There are three types of influenza viruses: A, B, C. Influenza humans and birds – Influenza A H5 and Influenza A H7 – types B and C are usually found in humans only. Influenza can be highly pathogenic or low pathogenic, depending on type A can infect people, birds, pigs, horses, and other ani- the genetic features of the virus and on the severity of the mals. illness they cause in poultry. H5 infections have been documented among humans, sometimes causing severe illness • Flu type A is further divided into subtypes that are distin- and death. H7 infection in humans is rare, but can occur guished and named for two proteins on the virus surface: among persons who have direct contact with infected birds; hemagglutinin (HA) and neuraminidase (NA). An “H5N1” symptoms may include conjunctivitis and/or upper respira- virus has an HA 5 protein and an NA 1 protein. There are 16 tory symptoms. known HA subtypes and 9 known NA subtypes. • The third prominent subtype infecting both humans and • Many different combinations of HA and NA proteins are birds – Influenza A H9 – has been documented only in low possible. Only some influenza A subtypes (i.e., H1N1, H1N2, pathogenic form. At least three H9 infections in humans and H3N2) are currently in general circulation among peo- have been confirmed. ple. Other subtypes are found most commonly in other animal species. All known subtypes of influenza A viruses can • Wild birds are the natural host for all known subtypes of infect birds. influenza A viruses. Typically, wild birds do not become sick when they are infected with avian influenza A viruses. • There are substantial genetic differences between the However, some avian influenza A viruses also can cause seri- influenza A subtypes that typically infect birds and those ous disease and death in wild birds. that infect both people and birds. Three prominent subtypes of the avian influenza A viruses that are known to Information compiled by RCN Editors, using information avail- infect both birds and people are: Influenza A H5, Influenza able on the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention website A H7, and Influenza A H9. at: http://www.cdc.gov/flu/avian/gen-info/flu-viruses.htm

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 21 For Discussion

The first documented cases of domes- To prevent and combat avian flu epi- However, Russian officials have also tic birds in Russia dying from H5N1 zootics, and to mitigate their conse- issued some recommendations that virus occurred in July 2005, when an quences, Russian officials have adopted conflict with international practice epizootic, an epidemic affecting many many measures that are consistent and which have evoked concern from animals of one kind at the same time, with those certified and recommended scientists and conservationists in of avian flu appeared among domestic by international organizations. These Russia and abroad. In letters dated birds in a number of regions in south- measures include various monitoring February 28, and March 15, 2006, vete- western Siberia. Since then, experts activities, vaccination of poultry, rinary and public health officials rec- have identified four different waves of organization of an avian flu early warn- ommended that Russian regions close H5N1 virus activity in the Central, ing system, quarantines, use of enclo- the spring 2006 duck hunting season Ural, Southern, and Siberian regions of sures to house birds as well as a closed and create special hunting brigades the Russian Federation. Although no regime of work for poultry farms, that would prevent birds from nesting humans in Russia have died from avian culling of sick poultry stocks, providing near populated areas and poultry flu, over a million and a half birds have compensation for culled birds to pri- farms by frightening the birds, by perished, having been destroyed or vate poultry owners, and strict observa- mowing reeds along water bodies, and succumbing to the disease. tion of sanitary and biosafety norms. by shooting them.

Waves of H5N1 Virus Activity in the Russian Federation

Source: Russia's Ministry for Emergency Situations *Data for Wave 4 is current as of June 26, 2006.

22 Russian Conservation News For Discussion

Analysis of the February 28 and March 15 Recommendations opinion of the RBCU, recommending a complete ban on On February 28, Gennady Onishchenko, the head of Russia's the spring hunt would have been a more effective measure. Federal Service for Consumer Protection and Human Well- Being (Rospotrebnadzor), issued an action plan for dealing 2) Recommendations that “in human settlements located near with avian flu. This set of documents included: a plan for bodies of water where 'wild migratory birds' nest, activities executive inter-agency collaboration in work to prevent and to frighten the wild birds from their nesting areas and 3-10 mitigate the consequences of avian flu, a comprehensive draft kilometers from the settlements should be carried out, plan of activities to prevent the spread of avian flu before and including using acoustic and other methods”: RBCU found during epizootics, instructions for heads of municipal organs fault, on one hand, with the formulation of this recommen- before and during epizootics, recommendations to poultry dation. Its reviewers questioned how people could frighten farm managers at whose facilities avian flu cases have been reg- birds such that, in a blind panic, they would fly ten kilome- istered, recommendations to private poultry owners on how to ters away from their nesting areas; they, of course, conclud- keep their stocks, and instructions for hunters and the general ed that the letter's authors intended for people to frighten public on how to prevent avian flu. birds from nesting areas located within a ten-kilometer- radius of human settlements. RBCU reviewers also criti- Contributors to the second issue of Ptichii gripp: fakti i kom- cized the use of the term “wild migratory birds,” which they mentarii (Avian flu: facts and comments), a joint publication noted includes not just waterfowl but also song birds that of the Russian Bird Conservation Union (RBCU) and the nest near water bodies. RBCU also levied less semantic and International Socio-Ecological Union's Forest Programme, more substantive criticisms of this recommendation, noting praised some components of the February 28 action plan. that the prescribed frightening would be very costly and Among other positive aspects, they cited plans to establish a labor-intensive and would prompt birds to fly from place to telephone hotline, ensure laboratory preparedness, and place in search of habitats where they could nest undis- inform the public how to collaborate with local government turbed, thus increasing the area over which the virus would officials, Russia's Federal Service for Veterinarian and be transferred and decreasing the predictability of the birds' Vegetation Sanitary Supervision (Vetnadzor) and behavior. Rospotrebnadzor, during epizootics. At the same time, the contributors criticized calling for “adopting measures to 'disal- 3) Recommendations that “special brigades of hunters be low migratory birds' nesting sites on water bodies where they organized with the goal of preventing the spread of avian might come in contact with domestic fowl.” influenza (H5N1)”: RBCU conceded that this vague point could merely mean frightening the birds, but expressed About two weeks later, on March 15, Onishchenko and concern that a subsequent recommendation that “places Yevgeny Nepoklonov, deputy head of Vetnadzor, jointly issued for the collection and destruction of dead birds, their a follow-up letter with recommendations “On additional entrails, feathers, and other waste be identified, using meth- measures to prevent avian flu transmission,” which was sent to ods that will exclude human infection” implied shooting the heads of Russian regions and the Russian Service of them. Forestry and Agricultural Supervision (Roslesselkhoznadvor) and Rospotrebnadzor directorates in the regions. 4) Recommendations (which, in the letter, immediately followed the recommendations referenced in 3 above regard- The RBCU offered its assessment of these recommendations in ing the organization of the “special hunting brigades”) that the third issue of Ptichii gripp: fakti i kommentarii (Avian flu: “should decoys be used in carrying out activities, they facts and comments). RBCU stated that the letter correctly should be vaccinated against avian flu”: Noting that decoys advocated the importance of preventing contact between have historically been used to attract birds and not frighten domestic and wild birds, citing the fact the transmission of the them, RBCU reviewers cited this recommendation as fur- virus from wild birds to domestic bids (and vice versa) takes ther evidence that the “specialized brigades of hunters” place when free range domestic fowl visit bodies of water were indeed envisioned to be hunting and not merely where wild waterfowl feed or nest. It also agreed with the let- frightening birds. ter's recommendations that birds in zoos be vaccinated and that the sanitary and veterinary conditions of markets selling Finally RBCU suggested that a recommendation explicitly live birds be more closely monitored. Although shooting wild advocating shooting wild birds may have been removed hastily birds was apparently not explicitly mentioned in the letter, prior to the letter's publication, leaving related points unaltered RBCU staff was critical of the recommendations that never- and suggested that many of the errors and contradictions in the theless “provoke shooting wild birds.” Specifically, they cited: document may have been avoided, if its authors had involved ornithologists in its preparation. 1) Recommendations to prohibit hunting “migratory waterfowl (ducks)”: RBCU was not opposed to the hunting ban – Compiled by RCN editors using information from issues of Ptichii in fact, the organization has come out in favor of banning gripp: fakti i kommentarii (Avian flu: facts and comments), a joint the spring 2006 hunt numerous times – but was critical of publication of the Russian Bird Conservation Union (RBCU) and the the letter limiting the ban to ducks, since other migratory International Socio-Ecological Union's Forest Programme. PDF ver- waterfowl, notably geese, can also carry the disease. In the sions of this Russian-language publication are available online at: http://www.rbcu.ru/birdflu/ news/ ?page_id=72.

These additional measures would not catchers, gulls, herons and egrets, cor- large area, which could lead to the effectively contain the avian flu. morants, and other birds are also carri- possible infection of other water bod- Closing duck hunting in no way ers of the virus. Active frightening of ies, where the birds would otherwise resolves the problem since geese, birds causes them to scatter over a not frequent. When birds are shot, the

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 23 For Discussion contamination of a territory actually The official Russian recommendations April 10-11, 2006, learned about gth- increases, as the dead and injured birds have evoked concern from the inter- rough thvernment policies that pro- might be consumed by synanthropic national community. When partici- mote culling of wild birds, including in birds (wild birds permanently living in pants in the “Scientific Seminar on Russia and the Philippines, they called one territory, such as ravens, doves, Avian Influenza, the Environment and upon the CMS to “send appropriate sparrows) and domestic animals. Migratory Birds,” which was organized signals to governments.” They also by the United Nations Environment called upon the UNEP to liaise with In addition, these recommendations Programme (UNEP), in cooperation the Convention of the International pose other issues. with the Convention on Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) Migratory Species of Wild regarding possible sanctions for killing • Mowing reeds constitutes “habitat Animals (CMS), and held migratory species. destruction,” which is unwise and in Nairobi, punishable by law. Practically, there Kenya, Many scientists and NGOs in is no technology or equipment that Moscow – most notably the All- would allow mowing up to the Russian Scientific and Research water's edge. Institute of Nature • Many birds would be needlessly Conservation, the Biodiversity destroyed. The virus has been Conservation Center, and the identified in 90 wild bird species. If Russian Bird Conservation the shooting were expanded to all Union – and Russia's regions these species, then practically all have spoken out against culling water fowl and near shore birds, of wild birds as a way to control including seabirds, as well as birds of the spread of the H5N1 virus. prey and synanthropic birds would be The battle to overturn these ill- eliminated. conceived “recommendations” is • Shootings carried out in populated ongoing. Even if the actual damage areas might injure people. to biodiversity will be minimized, • Culling of wild birds could violate damage to the ecological image of the Russian nature conservation legisla- country has already been incurred. tion and international conventions to which Russia is a party such as the Evegeny Kuznetsov is a head Ramsar Convention on Wetlands. Scientist at the Wild Animals Health • The shootings threaten great harm to Since 2005, over a million and Center, in the All-Russian Scientific and the biodiversity not just of Russia but a half domestic birds in Russia Research Institute of Nature Protection of other countries, as primary targets have perished, through cul- of the Federal Service for Oversight of would include migratory species, ling and from avian flu. Nature Use (Rosprirodnadzor) some of which are globally rare.

Another legitimate criticism of the mass shooting approach is that the Misguided Recommendations become Policy global scientific community does not in Tyumen Oblast understand precisely what role wild Russian Conservation News editors have confirmed that at least one region – birds play in the transfer and transmis- Tyumen Oblast in the Ural Federal District – has adopted and implemented official sion of the virus and their reaction to policies about shooting wild birds to prevent the spread of avian influenza. On April infection by the high-pathogenic 28, 2006, the Governor of Tumen Oblast, Vladimir Yakushev, issued Order № 367 H5N1 strain. Veterinary and medical “On measures to prevent the spread of avian flu during spring and summer 2006.” officials worldwide have implicated The document (the text of which is available in Russian on the Oblast government's wild migratory birds in the infection of official website, at http://www.admtyumen.ru/news/2006/04/28/24172) designat- domestic poultry, but it has always ed local governmental organs to organize and carry out, during the period April 28- been thought that wild birds are a nat- May 20, activities to shoot and frighten wild birds, with the exception of those listed ural reservoir and carriers of a low- on the IUCN Red List and in the Russian Red Book, in designated “buffer zones,” pathogenic strain of avian bird flu. In located within a two kilometer radius of human settlements and poultry farms in the addition, the H5N1 virus can be pre- oblast. On May 31, the press service of the Directorate of the Federal Service for served in the environment for a long Veterinary and Sanitary Supervision for Tyumen Oblast, Yamalo-Nenets and Khanty- time and may be transferred by numer- Mansiisk Autonomous Regions issued a statement to the Ural Bureau of the Russian ous means – through poultry industry Agency of International Information (RIA Novosti) that 962 hunting brigades in products, via means of transportation, Tyumen Oblast shot 13,549 wild birds to prevent the occurrence and spread of avian with equipment used in poultry hus- influenza. Compiled by RCN Editors. bandry, through bird droppings, etc.

24 Russian Conservation News Conservation History Conservation History

Reflections on the Social History of Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik

By Lisa Woodson

Lisa Woodson, a former RCN editor, visited Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik while on a Fulbright scholarship in 2005. Photo by N. Maleshin.

lvira Nikolaevna Kudryavtseva lives Eat the edge of the village of Yaksha, in a small wooden house at the entrance to a forest of fir trees. Though she retired from her work at nearby Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik in the early 1990s, she has stayed in the village she has called home since she was a teenager. She says she doesn't participate in village life much anymore – and, truth be told, like many rural Russian villages, Yaksha is fading – but if you stop by her house, Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik. she is sure to offer you a cup of tea and Map by M. Dubinin. some rhubarb and rowanberry jam. And if you're lucky, she may even tell reserves. Zapovedniks may be sible for protecting and publicizing you stories about the zapovednik and founded for the study and protection the zapovednik, for defending its exis- the people who worked there during of nature and environmental educa- tence against would-be roads or log- an earlier era. tion, but in the course of fulfilling ging sites, for studying its natural sys- these functions they produce a tems, and – no less significantly – for When I began visiting zapovedniks remarkable byproduct: a unique com- passing down its history and traditions five years ago, I quickly discovered that munity of researchers, rangers, and to each subsequent generation that they were far more than nature teachers. These are the people respon- enters the zapovednik's human com-

The village of Yaksha on the Pechora River, is the historic heart of Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik. Photo by L. Woodson.

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 25 Conservation History munity. These people have made Russia's zapovedniks what they are, and in turn the zapovedniks have made them who they are.

The role of human investment in Russian nature protection is perhaps most evident in the older zapovedniks – the 30 or so founded before the near-annihilation of the zapovednik system in the 1950s and 1960s. When Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik was created in 1930, it was by far the largest in Europe. It stretched over more than a million hectares between the Pechora and Ilych Rivers and into the northern Ural Mountains. In 1951, a government decree reduced its territory to A quaint wooden cabin in the village of Yaksha. Photo by L. Woodson. less than one-tenth its original size. However, seven years later, thanks to out of high school, blue eyes brimming Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik. the efforts of zapovednik staff and with romantic enthusiasm. She had Though slightly disappointed that she their sympathizers, the zapovednik long dreamed of going to a zapoved- wouldn't be working with tigers on was restored to its current area of nik, the farther away, the better – to the Pacific Coast, Elvira nonetheless about 700,000 hectares. Looking at Baikal or the Russian Far East. One of was eager to begin working with these figures on paper, no one would Elvira's schoolteachers had noted her moose. Even today, despite what call the 1950s and 60s the golden era unusual affinity for science and adven- many would consider her advanced of the zapovednik, but many people ture and, upon learning of her young age, Elvira moves with girlish energy, are nostalgic about these years in par- student's interest in zapovedniks, sparkles dancing in her bright blue ticular because of the remarkable wrote to Moscow to request a place eyes, white locks bouncing around her people who worked there. for her. Soon Elvira found herself on a temples. tiny plane to a rural village near the Elvira arrived at Pechoro-Ilychsky northern Urals, where she was to work An eager group of children and dogs, Zapovednik in September 1957, fresh at a newly opened moose farm in as well as a few adults, met Elvira when she stepped off the plane in the make- shift airfield behind Yaksha. One of them was Georgy Georgievich Shubin, the director of the zapovednik. “So you came after all,” he said with a smile. He and Evgeny Pavlovich Knorre, the head of the zapovednik's moose farm, had tried to frighten her with stories of how difficult life and work were in this remote world. But it soon became clear they were happy to have her.

“Such interesting people were here!” Elvira recalls. There was the director, Shubin, who had worked in reconnais- sance during the war. His experience operating behind enemy lines made him a brilliant strategist and delicate negotiator, two skills that proved invaluable for helping the zapovednik weather some of the most difficult Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik's experimental moose center was created in 1949 using new- decades for nature protection in the born calves separated from their mothers. Here, reserve staff and residents of Yaksha excit- Soviet Union. There was fiery Oleg edly greet the latest addition to their growing herd, flown into the zapovednik's airstrip Izmailovich Semyonov-Tyan-Shansky, from the taiga. Photo provided by Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik. the quintessential absent-minded sci-

26 Russian Conservation News Conservation History

reduced to a fraction of its original account of his “suspicious” heritage. size in 1951. Friends recall that her While he was there, his daughter and thinking was nuanced, and she often only child died of a common child- acted as a voice of reason in the hood illness. zapovednik. For example, when conflicts arose with native Mansi herders Elvira's life was also marked with hard- who had pastured their reindeer in ship. Her father died in the war, when the zapovednik for centuries, Lidia she was a little girl, and her mother argued in favor of working to pre- was a doctor who traveled with field serve the Mansis' traditional way of expeditions. As a result, young Elvira life. For many years, upon encounter- lived alone for months at a time. She ing zapovednik employees in the was self-sufficient and accustomed to mountains, the reindeer herders solitude. From an early age she knew would pass their greetings on to Lidia how to build a fire, bake bread, and Borisovna. make felt boots. She found life in Yaksha a pleasure rather than a strug- But the person that Elvira was most gle, even though her low salary always fond of, it seems, was Evgeny kept her on the edge of survival. With Zapovednik Director Georgy Shubin works Pavlovich Knorre, whom she calls her first paycheck she bought a gun to harness train a moose in the 1950s. “A Human Being with a capital 'H.'” and cartridges. The zapovednik staff Photo provided by Pechoro-Ilychsky Knowing that he worked with moose, taught her to hunt and often gave her Zapovednik. Elvira had expected Evgeny to be a extra rounds of ammunition to help large man. In fact he was rather small, her make ends meet. In 1959 she entist. Never to be seen without with a kind face and intense, bright decided to continue her education binoculars around his neck and a eyes. From the moment she arrived at (recall that she had come to Pechoro- notepad in hand, Oleg could type a the moose farm, Elvira followed him Ilychsky Zapovednik just out of high letter in German while carrying on a around like a duckling, looking at school) and began taking a correspon- conversation in Russian, but he could everything he looked at, touching dence course. also forget an invitation he had everything he touched, absorbing all extended minutes earlier. There was she could from his seemingly endless Mikhail Kozhukhov, the moose farm's knowledge of moose, their behavior, veterinarian, who had a wonderful and their environment. rapport with animals. According to Elvira, Kozhukhov had but to call, Elvira remembers Evgeny as a cheery “Here, sonny!” and moose would come person, known and loved by all in the running. village, someone who would sing and dance at community theater events. There was Lidia Borisovna Lanina, He was always willing to lend a help- one of a small group of women who ing hand, and never had a bad thing to kept the zapovednik alive during the say about anyone. It was only with war, when most of the male employ- Evgeny's help and generosity that she ees headed to the front. A solid lived through her first winter, when Communist Party member (“in the temperatures plunged to -50 degrees. best sense of the term,” as another Though many people at the zapoved- friend of hers explained to me), Lidia nik taught her the secrets of survival in had fought for the Red Army during Yaksha on the shoestring zapovednik the Civil War. Before that she had salary, Elvira's primary gratitude was to served in the First World War. She Evgeny, whom she calls her “teacher, was personally acquainted with the comrade, and father.” poet Vladimir Mayakovsky, and all who knew her remember her as a When I ask another of Evgeny Knorre's person of rare graciousness with a friends about him, a worn face sud- talent for storytelling. Her devotion denly softens and he explains that to the zapovednik is hard to exagger- when some people pass through diffi- ate: Lidia knew the territory of the cult experiences in life, “they become zapovednik inside and out, and, much more humane.” To be sure, the Evgeny Pavlovich Knorre, who worked as besides producing the requisite scien- cheery Knorre's life was often anything the head of Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik's tific articles and botanical collections, but cheery. Born in Russia but of experimental moose farm, leads a “pack moose” across wind-fallen trees in the she was instrumental in re-establish- German descent, Evgeny was sent to a 1950s. Photo provided by Pechoro-Ilychsky ing the zapovednik after it was labor camp during World War II on Zapovednik.

Spring/Summer 2006 No. 41 27 Conservation History

century, but still die a fool – so much in nature remains mysterious. So I go almost every day to the woods, trying to complete some part of my education as I near the end of my years… I am truly happy that I gave my love of the beautiful, of nature, to hundreds of people. Maybe not even to hundreds, but dozens. But these people, having fallen in love with nature with all their heart, will pass that baton further on. And there will be fewer poachers, fewer rude people who are indifferent to tearing down a nest, burning a young fir in a campfire. That's what warms me, brings me joy, that's where I find happi- ness in the years I have lived. A witty archivist at the reserve labeled this photo from the 1960s as “Wild Women and Domesticated Moose.” Photo provided by Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik. Elvira packs up some jam for me, and I head back into Yaksha. As I walk Like her mentor Evgeny Knorre, Elvira Shubin, Semyonov-Tyan-Shansky, though the sleepy village, past the is particularly fond of the moose she Kozhukhov, Lanina, and Knorre, politi- cemetery where Lanina, Kozhukhov, worked with all her life. It's hard to cal and scientific currents charged and many others are buried, I imagine imagine this diminutive woman stand- zapovedniks with exploring nature's Yaksha bustling with children, as it was ing up to a 500-kilogram moose as “usefulness” to society. Lanina's botan- when Elvira arrived. I picture Evgeny part of the zapovednik's moose ical work included studies of the eco- singing in a humorous skit, or Lidia domestication experiments, but in nomic value of forests for increasing calming Kozhukhov with her gracious photograph after photograph her the population of game animals, and words. I allow the photographs I slight figure can be seen milking, har- Kozhukhov spent years studying recently saw to come to life in my nessing, or riding a moose. moose milk and methods to increase a mind, and I see Elvira as a young Contradicting the stereotype of moose moose's milk output. Some might sus- woman, laughing with delight as she as dangerous, unpredictable animals, pect that this quest for nature's “use- falls off a moose that has started and is Elvira describes moose as loyal, gentle, fulness” indicates that the conserva- galloping away. I picture all of them at even protective. She speaks animated- tion community of the time had an a scientific council meeting, debating ly of how to train a moose – “Never exclusively consumerist attitude an issue while the junior scientists – beat it – reward it with a potato toward nature. However, talking with today's senior scientists – listen instead” – and as we leaf through pho- Elvira puts such thoughts to rest. She thoughtfully. Outside the zapovednik tographs together, she can identify shows me some excerpts from letters their names are to be found only as the every moose, recalling its name, tem- she received from Evgeny after he authors of old articles, and it is their perament, and a handful of funny sto- moved to Volzhko-Kamsky accomplishments, not their day-to-day ries, as though the moose were a pet, Zapovednik, saying that his words lives, that are remembered. It would be or even a child. “explain everything about him:” foolish to expect otherwise, I suppose, but I am wistful: after all, these people Since the days of those photographs, I find my greatest consolation in walks are as integral a part of Pechoro- the moose farm has fallen on hard through the forest, which has always Ilychsky Zapovednik as the forests and times. Government funding is down, been and will always be for me the the rivers they worked to protect. poaching is up, and the traditions of school of nature which a person would the moose farm no longer coincide need more than a thousand years to Lisa Woodson is a former editor of with the country's dominant conserva- graduate from. In that school there is Russian Conservation News. In 2005, tion philosophies. When Elvira arrived so much unknown and new material. she received a Fulbright scholarship to at the zapovednik and worked with A biologist could live a century, study a study zapovednik history in Russia.

28 Russian Conservation News CONSERVATION CONTACTS

Natalia Agaltseva. Ulitsa Tyoplyi Stan 9-7-92, Moscow, Russia Erich Hoyt. Senior Research Fellow, Whale and Dolphin 117465. Email: [email protected]. Conservation Society Co-Director, Far East Russia Orca Project. Tel: +7 (495) 339-45-43, +7(926) 388-47-59. E-mail: [email protected] Websites: www.erichhoyt.com. www.cetaceanhabitat.org. All-Russian Scientific and Research Institute of Nature Protection. Evgeny Kuznetsov, Head Scientist, Wild Animals Institute for Sustainable Communities. 535 Stone Cutters Health Center, Ulitsa Znamrnskiye Sadki. Moscow, Russia 117628. Way, Montpelier, Vermont, USA 05602. Tel: +1 (802) 229-2900. Tel: +7 (495) 423-03-22. E-mail: [email protected]. Fax: +1 (802) 229-2919. E-mail: [email protected]. Website: http://www.iscvt.org/. .. Baikal Plan. Baikalplan e.V. Umweltzentrum Dresden, Schutzen- gasse 18, Dresden, Germany 01067. Tel: +49 (0)351-49 43 320. International Socio-Ecological Union. P.O. Box 211, Moscow, Fax: +49 (0)351-427 66 20. E-mail: [email protected]. Russia 119019. Tel: +7 (095) 124-7934. E-mail: [email protected], Website: [email protected]. Website: http://seu.ru. http://www.baikalplan.de/html/english_startseite.xml.php. Pechoro-Ilychsky Zapovednik. Aleksei Yakushev, Director. Bolonsky Zapovednik. Irina Nikitina, Deputy Director for Yaksha, Troitsko-Pechorsky District, Komi Republic, Russia Science. Ulitsa Amurskaya 14, Amursk, Khabarovsky Krai, Russia 169436. 682640. Tel: +7 (821-38) 9-50-91. Tel/Fax: +7 (421-42) 2-76-89. Email: [email protected]. Pleistocene Park. Sergei A. Zimov, Director. PO Box 18, Chersky, EarthCorps. 6310 NE 74th St, Suite 201E, Seattle, Washington, Republic of Sakha (Yakutia), Russia 678830. Tel: +7-41157-2-30- USA 98115. Tel: +1 (206)322-9296 ext. 101. Fax: +1 (206)322- 13. 9312. Fax: +7-41157-2-25-60 (indicate "For S. Zimov"). Email: [email protected]. Website: http://www.earthcorps.org/. E-mail: [email protected]. Website: http://www.faculty.uaf.edu/fffsc/park.html. Earth Island Institute. Baikal Watch Project. 300 Broadway, Suite 28, Russian Bird Conservation Union. Shosse Entuziastov 60, San Francisco, California, USA 94133-3312. Tel: +1 (415) 788- Building 1. Moscow, Russia 111123. Tel/Fax: +7 (495) 672-22-63. 3666. E-mail: [email protected]. Website: http://www.rbcu.ru Fax: +1 (415) 788-7324. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: http://www.earthisland.org/, http://www.earthisland.org/baikal. WDCS, the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society. Brookfield House, 38 St Paul Street, Chippenham, Wiltshire, United Kingdom SN15 1LJ. E-mail: [email protected]. Far East Russia Orca Project (FEROP). E-mail: info@rus- Website: http://www.wdcs.org/. sianorca.com. Website: http://www.russianorca.com/indexeng.htm/. World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF)-Russia. Aleksei Kokorin, Climate Program Coordinator. Viktor Nikiforov, Great Baikal Trail Association. Natasha Luzhkova, Great Director of Regional Programs. Ulitsa Nikoloyamskaya 19, Baikal Trail Volunteer Coordinator. E-mail: Building 3, Moscow, Russia 109240. [email protected]. Tel: +7 (095) 727-09-39. Fax: +7 (095) 727-09-38. Tel: +7 (3952) 33-15-18. Website: http://www.greatbaikaltrail.ru/. E-mail: [email protected].

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Раздел I. охотничьи племена подорвали популяции тра- 2002-2020 гг. Ожидаемый результат - система Особо охраняемые природные тер- воядных животных, которые поддерживали и взаимосвязанных обустроенных туристичес- ритории сохраняли такие экосистемы. Для проверки ких маршрутов вокруг знаменитого озера. этой гипотезы автор и его коллеги работали Кроме непосредственной работы над созда- Болоньский заповедник изучает послед- над реконструкцией мамонтовой экосистемы нием тропы организация решает и другие за- ствия взрыва на заводе Дзилинь в Китае. на небольшой территории в Якутии. Главной дачи, связанные с сохранением уникальной Ирина Никитина. Ученые Болоньского запо- целью проекта, названного «Плейстоценовый природы этого региона. Например, восста- ведника, расположенного в Хабаровском крае, парк», является выявление и подтверждение новление нарушенных участков леса, сохра- сделали важный вклад в изучение влияния роли плейстоценовых животных в поддержа- нение нерестилищ, восстановление историко- взрыва на химическом заводе в Китае в ноябре нии тундрово-степных экосистем. Ученые культурных памятников, преодоление барь- 2005 года на экосистему реки Амур. Ученые предполагают, что восстановление тундрово- еров между жителями города и деревни и дру- собрали и проанализировали пробы воды, степных экосистем на обширных северных гие. Выполнение проекта стимулирует учас- взятые в разных точках на протяжении реки территориях позволит избежать катастрофы в тие местных жителей в развитии экологичес- Амур, в оз. Болонь и в устье реки Симми. Анализ результате глобального потепления климата. кого туризма, служит распространению идей проб показал, что уровень содержания фенолов охраны природы и экологическому просве- сейчас в 3 раза выше, чем до аварии. Ученые Жители Чукотки рассказывают о приз- щению населения, привлекает волонтеров со предполагают, что такая концентрация опасна наках потепления климата. Мелисса Му- всей России и из-за рубежа. для живых организмов. Из позвоночных жи- за. Летом и осенью 2005 года Программа по изменению климата ВВФ России провела оп- вотных в первую очередь страдает рыба, а за- Раздел IV. тем те, которые питаются рыбой. Таким обра- рос местных жителей Чукотки, проживающих Для обсуждения зом все участники этой пищевой цепочки, в том на морском побережье, об их наблюдениях за числе водоплавающие и околоводные птицы, климатическими изменениями в природе. Некоторые рекомендации российских оказались под угрозой. Среди них 7 очень ред- Оказалось, что эти изменения вполне ре- властей по борьбе с птичьим гриппом ких видов, внесенных в международную Крас- альны. Например, аномальные погодные явле- вызывают тревогу. Евгений Кузнецов. В ную книгу, например дальневосточный аист - ния, изменения облика ландшафтов, миграци- июле 2005 года на Юго-западе России индикатор Амура. Сотрудники заповедника онных путей, распространения и поведения впервые были зарегистрированы птицы, зара- считают необходимым продолжить исследова- животных. Все эти перемены неизбежно женные вирусом Н5N1 - птичьим гриппом. С ния и активно ищут финансовой поддержки. влияют и на традиционный уклад жизни мес- этого момента специалисты зарегистрирова- тного населения. ли 4 волны заболевания в России. Правда, лю- Развитие и регулирование туризма в Ри- ди пока не страдали от птичьего гриппа, но цинском реликтовом национальном Раздел III. уже более 5 млн. птиц погибло или было унич- парке в Абхазии. Наталья Агальцева. Нес- тожены из-за этого заболевания. Для предот- мотря на относительно маленькую террито- Экологический туризм вращения распространения птичьего гриппа, рию – 39,032 га Рицинский национальный Поддержка и стимулирование наблюде- исключения случаев заболевания людей, сок- парк имеет значительное ландшафтное раз- ний за китами и морского экотуризма в ращения экономического ущерба соответ- нообразие в пяти разных климатических зо- России. Эрих Хойт В последние 2 года ствующие властные структуры страны приня- нах. В парке отмечено более 800 видов сосу- Дальневосточный проект по касатке при под- ли меры, во многом совпадающие с междуна- дистых растений, среди которых немало ре- держке Общества охраны китов и дельфинов родными. Однако были и странные рекомен- ликтовых и эндемичных. Много интересней- (WDCS) рассмотрел и оценил потенциал мор- дации, которые идут вразрез с междуна- ших природных объектов – озеро Рица, Гег- ского экотуризма в России, включая наблюде- родным опытом и тревожат профессионалов ский водопад, Голубое озеро, Юпшерское ния за китами и дельфинами. WDCS выявило в России и за рубежом. Многие из них проти- ущелье и другие. В последние годы в парке ак- частников, различные группы и компании, за- воречат не только здравому смыслу, но и друг тивно возрождается туризм после резкого интересованные в развитии морского экоту- другу, например - запретить весеннюю охоту спада во время грузино-абхазской войны. ризма и постаралось инициировать морские на уток (только на уток!), но создать охот- Поскольку инфраструктура для приема турис- туры. Был проведен ряд туров по наблюдениям ничьи бригады для отстрела и отпугивания тов не развита, посещение парка зачастую но- за китами вдоль морского побережья России. птиц от населенных пунктов и птицефабрик. сит стихийный характер и всерьез затрагива- Наиболее важными моментами WDCS считает ет особо охраняемую зону. Для того, чтобы разработку детальной стратегии для организа- Раздел V. сохранить наиболее ценные природные объ- ция морских туров, выгодных и туроперато- екты желательно ограничить посещение пар- рам, и коренному малочисленному населению, История природоохранной деятель- ка до проведения серьезных исследований, разработку образовательных и развлека- ности четкого зонирования территории и опреде- тельных программ для туристов, действенных Страницы истории Печоро-Илычского ления оптимального уровня посещаемости мер по сохранению морских экосистем и мор- заповедника. Лиза Вудсон. Бывший редак- парка. В то же время туризм чрезвычайно ва- ских млекопитающих. В рамках проекта была тор RCN и наш постоянный автор Лиза Вудсон жен для Республики Абхазия, а Рицинский подготовлена и выпущена 84-страничная пуб- приглашает присоединиться к ней в поездке в парк - это ее второй по популярности турис- ликация «Туристические экскурсии по наблю- Печоро-Илычский заповедник, располо- тический объект. Поиск оптимального реше- дению за китами и морской экотуризм в Рос- женный на севере Уральских гор. В теплой ния затрудняют несовершенство законода- сии. Вводное руководство для компаний, при- уютной кухне с необыкновенно приятной хо- тельной базы, а также финансовые и кадровые родоохранных групп и частных лиц, планиру- зяйкой, которая всю жизнь проработала на проблемы. ющих организацию и развитие морского эко- лосиной ферме в одном из старейших запо- туризма в России». Кроме руководства боль- ведников страны, за чашкой чая мы познако- Раздел II. шим тиражом был выпущен иллюстриро- мимся с эпизодами ее необыкновенной жиз- Охраняемые экосистемы ванный полевой определитель «Морские мле- ни и истории заповедника. Эльвира Николаев- копитающие России», куда вошли все виды, Плейстоценовый парк - возврат экосис- на Кудрявцева вспоминает свой приезд в запо- обитающие в морях нашей страны. ведник почти полвека назад, многочисленные темы мамонтов. Сергей Зимов. Десять ты- радости и проблемы работы в заповеднике, и, сяч лет назад в начале голоценовой эпохи тун- Большая Байкальская тропа. Андрей Сук- конечно, об интереснейших людях - его сот- дрово-степная экосистема (которую автор нев. Российская неправительственная орга- называет мамонтовая тундро-степь), занимав- низация «Большая Байкальская Тропа» начи- рудниках: Георгии Георгиевиче Шубине, Евге- шая обширные пространства, неожиданно пе- ная с 2002 года осуществляет комплексный нии Павловиче Кнорре, Олеге Измайловиче рестала существовать. Автор объясняет это проект по развитию экологического туризма Семенове-Тянь-Шанском, Михаиле Кожухове, тем, что многочисленные к тому времени в бассейне оз. Байкал. Проект рассчитан на Лидии Борисовне Ланиной и других.

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