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Patrimoine Culinaire Et Religieux Dans Le Vodoun De Ouidah, Bénin Rosa Nallely Moreno Moncayo

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Patrimoine Culinaire Et Religieux Dans Le Vodoun De Ouidah, Bénin Rosa Nallely Moreno Moncayo Le maïs mésoaméricain : patrimoine culinaire et religieux dans le vodoun de Ouidah, Bénin Rosa Nallely Moreno Moncayo To cite this version: Rosa Nallely Moreno Moncayo. Le maïs mésoaméricain : patrimoine culinaire et religieux dans le vodoun de Ouidah, Bénin. Anthropologie sociale et ethnologie. Université Paris sciences et lettres, 2019. Français. NNT : 2019PSLEP001. tel-02636827 HAL Id: tel-02636827 https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-02636827 Submitted on 27 May 2020 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. THÈSE DE DOCTORAT de l’Université de recherche Paris Sciences et Lettres PSL Research University Préparée à l’École Pratique des Hautes Études Le maïs mésoaméricain : patrimoine culinaire et religieux dans le vodoun de Ouidah, Bénin. École doctorale de l’EPHE – ED 472 Spécialité : Anthropologie COMPOSITION DU JURY : M Serge BAHUCHET Professeur CE Président du jury Mme Isabelle BIANQUIS Professeur d’anthropologie Rapporteur Mme Emmanuelle Kadya TALL Chargée de recherche HDR Examinateur Soutenue par : Rosa Nallely MORENO MONCAYO le 11 janvier 2019 Dirigée par : Danièle DEHOUVE Table de matières Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 13 Problématique et motivations de la thèse .................................................................. 14 Propos ..................................................................................................................................... 17 Région d’étude ...................................................................................................................... 19 Méthodologie ........................................................................................................................ 21 Le travail de terrain à Ouidah ......................................................................................... 23 Notes sur le travail de terrain avec le chef suprême Daagbo HounƆ ................ 24 Terrain et vie culinaire : une ethnographie du quotidien .................................... 29 Bibliographie ........................................................................................................................ 30 Plan ........................................................................................................................................... 35 Chapitre I. Le maïs en Mésoamérique : domestication et influence au cours des ères préclassique, classique et postclassique. .................................................. 38 La domestication du maïs ................................................................................................. 39 L’hypothèse sur le teocintle du Balsas et la variété Zea mays ............................. 44 La Mésoamérique et la production du maïs ............................................................... 50 Le Préclassique (2 500 av. J.-C. – 200 ap. J.-C.) ........................................................... 52 Le Classique (200-900 ap. J.C.) ........................................................................................ 57 Le Postclassique (900-1521 ap. J.C.) ............................................................................. 59 Chapitre II. Usages et représentations du maïs dans les religions mésoaméricaines. ............................................................................................................... 66 Le dieu-maïs chez les Olmèques ..................................................................................... 70 Le dieu-maïs chez les Aztèques : cycle rituel agraire ............................................. 73 Atamalcualiztli ..................................................................................................................... 77 Le mythe du maïs dans la pensée mésoaméricaine ................................................ 79 Quetzalcóatl (le Serpent à plumes) ............................................................................... 81 2 La Légende des soleils ........................................................................................................ 82 Le Popol Vuh .......................................................................................................................... 84 Calendrier agricole ............................................................................................................. 85 Travail de la terre et cycle rituel .................................................................................... 89 Chapitre III. La migration du maïs : de son introduction sur la côte atlantique et de l’importance du port de Ouidah en tant que lieu stratégique d’échanges commerciaux......................................................................................................................... 94 Migration du maïs en Amérique ..................................................................................... 94 Migration du maïs vers l’Europe et l’Afrique ............................................................. 96 L’introduction de plantes et du maïs américains sur la Côte des Esclaves .. 101 Traite et alimentation ..................................................................................................... 104 Alimentation au XIXème siècle : le Chacha et les Agouda ..................................... 106 Notes sur les échanges commerciaux entre Ouidah, l’Europe et le Brésil ... 109 Ouidah : une ville cosmopolite .................................................................................... 115 Chapitre IV. Calendrier agricole et divinités vodouns liées à l’agriculture. 119 Calendrier ........................................................................................................................... 121 Lune, marchés et destinée humaine .......................................................................... 121 Les deux saisons des pluies : xwè et zo...................................................................... 124 Cérémonies vodouns en temps de sécheresse ........................................................ 130 Des jours et des pratiques ............................................................................................. 132 Demande pour une bonne récolte : cérémonie au vodoun Aizan Dodo lors des pronostics climatiques et agricoles pour l’année 2014 ...................................... 134 Remerciements de récolte ............................................................................................ 136 Cérémonie d’Azohon ........................................................................................................ 140 Sécheresse et inceste ....................................................................................................... 143 Prise en charge du cycle agricole par Sakpata, Dan et Hεvioso ....................... 146 3 Culture de la terre ............................................................................................................ 148 Les couleurs du maïs ....................................................................................................... 155 Chapitre V. La cuisine dans le sud du Bénin. ........................................................... 158 Les comportements alimentaires chez les Fon, les Xweȡa et les Xwla .......... 158 La femme béninoise ......................................................................................................... 159 Les repas de rue ................................................................................................................ 161 Cacher les acquis .............................................................................................................. 164 Conservation des aliments ............................................................................................ 165 Les ustensiles de cuisine ................................................................................................ 167 La préparation des repas ............................................................................................... 169 La cuisine béninoise, une question de goût ............................................................ 171 Repas d’ailleurs ................................................................................................................. 172 Chapitre VI. Le maïs dans les cuisines béninoise et mexicaine ........................ 175 Maïs frais ............................................................................................................................. 179 Le maïs sec .......................................................................................................................... 182 La pâte / wƆ ........................................................................................................................ 183 Agbadé wƆ ........................................................................................................................... 183 Ablâ .............................................................................................................................................
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