Volume 15 Issue 9

Brouwerij Rodenbach Roeselare, West Flanders, Belgium

Caractère Rouge

There is perhaps no more famous Rodenbach Grand Cru and Vintage In 1878, Pedro’s grandson Eugène became brewery in all Belgium than previously, and we are even more manager of the family brewery. From a Brouwerij Rodenbach. While the excited to offer Caractère Rouge, one perspective, as opposed to a country has a long history of of the brewery’s most exceptional (and political one, Eugène is certainly the most brewing both tart and downright limited) offerings—with less than 500 influential Rodenbach in the family line. sour using wild and cases sold throughout the U.S. each During his travels to southern England, he bacteria, it was Rodenbach in the year. was exposed to, and learned much about, late 19th century that helped the early beers popular in London pioneer and define the specific The brewery bears the name of the at the time. In the 19th century, these early style of we know as Rodenbach family, who not only porters were typically aged for at least Flanders Red , considered by contributed their unique beer to the several months in giant barrels where they many to be the most vinous, world but also helped contribute matured and acidified. Eugène took what he or wine-like, of all beer styles. Belgium to the world, at least as learned and applied it at home in Belgium, The standard Rodenbach is a an independent country. The developing and refining the technique, and blend of approximately 75% brewery was founded in 1821 by creating the style of Rodenbach beers we fresh and 25% 2-year aged Rodenbach brothers Pedro, know today. ale, while Rodenbach Alexander, Ferdinand, and Grand Cru incorporates Constantijn. All four played Rodenbach’s red undergo a primary much more aged beer critical roles in the Belgian (approx. 66%). The Revolution of 1830, which led (Continued on reverse page) Caractère Rouge we to the secession of Belgium bring you this month from the United Kingdom SPECIFICATIONS starts as 100% 2-year of the Netherlands. In fact, aged ale, which then when Leopold I greeted the Style undergoes a 6-month crowd from the balcony of Oak-Aged Sour Ale w/ Cherries, maceration with fresh the House of the Nation Raspberries, and Cranberries cherries, raspberries, after being crowned king, 7% and cranberries. Alexander (who ran the Serving Temperature brewery from 1821 to 1836, 43–50° F We’ve been able to and happened to be blind) Suggested Glassware get our members appeared at his side. Tulip, Teku, Flute, or Pinot Glass and a secondary fermentation, with both exceptions aside, we were just floored by between them: caramel, , a variety yeast and lactobacillus bacteria, creating how well the vibrant sourness here supports of vinous qualities to support the earlier beer with a distinctively acidic, sour quality. a huge abundance of juicy red fruits. Burgundy comparison. Deeper still, we However, it’s when the beers enter the found hints of peppery spice and almonds. maturation stage that the fun really begins. The appearance of this beer, though—and The beer is aged in huge oak barrels known despite the number of times we’re inclined Aging & Pairing Notes: as “foeders” in Flemish (“foudres” in to use the word “fruit” in the following French), some of which are older than 150 paragraphs—kind of gives a better sense The brewery puts a best-by date on years. Of these impressive foeders, Rare of what this beer’s about: this is more ruby Caractère Rouge of about three years out, Beer Club founder Michael Jackson earlier and caramel and barrel-brown than fruit- and it certainly feels like a cellar-worthy wrote, “Rodenbach, in Roeselare, has ten pop red, or anything along those lines. choice to us. Watch out for how the fruit or eleven halls full of these tuns. There Modest head formation. This does give a dissipates and the caramel ramps up. In is nothing comparable in any brewery berry-color glow at certain angles. The firm, considering pairings, the overall structure elsewhere in the world, and the whole off-white/light-pink foam lingers for a while of this beer is sort of like elements of establishment is a temple of industrial at the edges, with well-structured lacing. balsamic vinegar and strawberry: which had archaeology.” us thinking of greens, and creamy The berries make the aroma on this pop. cheeses. Caractère Rouge The combination, and aspects of the color, kept us thinking strawberries, but you can The exclusive RODENBACH Caractère Rouge, also kind of pick out each of the noted with an alcohol content of 7%, is the result additions: the tang of cranberry, the deep ENJOY YOUR of a 6-month maceration with fresh fruit purple of raspberries, that familiar cherry. RODENBACH (sour cherries, raspberries and cranberries) There are darker fruits, plus leather, a OAK FOEDER of RODENBACH Vintage Ale, which matured relatively soft influence from the years in BOTTLE OPENER! in oak casks for 2 years. After its maceration, oak—and a plush, mouthwatering acidity. So we’d like to think that being a the beer is re-fermented in the bottle. … This member of The Rare Beer Club has beer evokes the delicacy and experience of We love how the fruit character on this some pretty cool perks. Certainly a fresh Burgundy wine. – Caractère Rouge beer is just massive and still backed up by getting beers crafted exclusively release notes a generous degree of structure and barrel for our members from breweries influence. The cherries were first to register, like Lost Abbey, Jolly Pumpkin and Less than 500 cases of Rodenbach’s then cranberries, while raspberries, at least The Bruery is a sweet part of being Caractère Rouge are sold annually in the as we were tasting things, basically took the in the club, but this month, we’ve U.S., and we’ve got a substantial portion of wheel mid-palate. The tongue gets a nice got something really cool for you. that allocation set aside for our Rare Beer zestiness of bubbles and acidity—certainly The bottle opener included in this Club members. sour, but very welcoming. month’s shipment was made from one of Rodenbach’s 294 oak foeders. We would take this over fresh Burgundy. While the berries play out no problem, the Each foeder is crafted from 150-year While there are certainly exceptions to the overall effect isn’t a berry. It’s more fruit old French oak and used for 150 rule that the land of fruit beer tends to be leather, like Fruit Roll-Ups but good ones, a years before being retired. You’re ruled by the sour, bright acidity really does combination of the fresh-fruit additions, an holding a bit of history in your hand work beautifully alongside fresh-fruit notes. underlying layer of barrel character (toasty compliments of Rodenbach and The We are much more likely to be sated by a oak, an edge of tannins, some rounding Rare Beer Club. Prost! Kris sour peach beer than a peach beer. And, vanilla), and various aged notes playing out

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Rowley Farmhouse Ales Santa Fe, New Mexico

The Smoking Swede Rare Beer Club Exclusive

Rowley Farmhouse Ales down in Santa Fe hit on Gotland, often in small wooden mash tuns according to traditional recipes. The name our radars pretty recently, having opened in called rostbunns. A main component to this means “drink of Gotland” or translated 2016. But the funky farmhouse ales and sour style involves the use of juniper, and since further, “drink of the good land.” Both styles concoctions these folks have been putting we have no shortage of local juniper in and also tend to have and oats in addition to out have been quickly making them a name around Santa Fe, we foraged our own local malted , and often use local herbs, and in the wider beer world. Rowley brewed boughs and berries to be used in the brewing in the case of Gotlandsdricka, sometimes something special for us this month—a of our version. We also used birch smoked local honey. Though Gotland is a relatively rare Gotlandsdricka, inspired by the historic , that our good friend Tobias smoked small land mass (at about 30 miles wide by Scandinavian —and pretty much for us up in the hills in the Jemez wilderness. 100 miles north to south), due to local, often pulled out all the stops in creating this one, Typically one might choose a harder wood in family-based recipes there is quite a wide as some of the necessary ingredients can the US, but we wanted to be true to style as interpretation of the style; one person’s take some doing... Rowley is headed up on much as possible. homebrewed Gotlandsdricka is quite likely the beer side by brewmaster John Rowley, to taste very different than another’s. Unlike who’s worked as a lab scientist at Los “Besides the birch smoked , the grain most sahtis, Gotlandsdricka tends to rely Alamos National Laboratory for the previous bill for this beer consists of a large portion heavily on wood-smoked malts. In the days dozen-plus years, picking up 80+ regional of rye, raw wheat and naked oats. We before brewers’ yeast was cultured, many and national brewing awards along the way. lightly hopped this to 22 IBUs using Russian Gotlanders used baker’s yeast, sometimes by We’re thrilled to be able to get this brewer’s Serebrianka , and fermented it using way of actual bread loaves, or relied on wild work into the hands of our Rare Beer Club our house mixed culture. This beer was and bacteria cultures residing on the members. brewed exclusively for the Rare Beer Club juniper sticks used to stir the brew. and Pints for Prostates, an organization we We’ll let Rowley introduce The Smoking stand behind wholeheartedly. It will only be Today the population of the Gotland is approx. Swede, as well as his methods for creating it: available through the club, and we will also 57,000, and residents have much to boast of be pouring a -barrel-aged version during their cultural heritage. Human presence here “The Smoking Swede is an interpretation of Denver Rare Beer 10 and at our tap room. (Continued on reverse page) Gotlandsdricka, an indigenous Cheers! Or should we say Skål!” brewed on the island of Gotland. The small island of Gotland is 40 miles or so off the coast The Smoking Swede SPECIFICATIONS of in the Baltic Sea. Since the Viking age, this beer has been continually brewed Let’s get a sense of what we’re digging into Style with this one. Gotlandsdricka is Gotlandsdricka w/ birch-smoked the indigenous beer of Gotland, malt Sweden’s largest island, located in the Baltic Sea between Alcohol By Volume Sweden and Latvia. Similar 5.5% in many respects to ’s Serving Temperature native brew, , this is a type 48–55° F of beer that typically relies on juniper—both berries and Suggested Glassware twigs—and is typically made Nonic, Tulip, Teku, or in the home or farmhouse Trusty Drinking Horn predates history, with evidence of civilization sort of wood, had us thinking of the tightly Rowley’s birch-smoked malt.) The finish dating back to at least the Stone Age, though wound smokiness of Lagavulin. And that’s all definitely brings everything into clearest perhaps the most enduring legacy is that of just in the aromatics. view: delicious, toasty and dry, with a nice Viking culture and the middle ages. It’s not and nearly peaty smoke component adding clear when something resembling today’s This beer is something else. The lightly tart further structure, and all sorts of complex “average” Gotlandsdricka was first brewed core citruses and sourdough-like yeastiness tartness showing with a bit more time. Rowley (and truth be told, any native beer brewed form the foundation from the get-go, with presents Gotlandsdricka as a delicate balance there at any point would be, by definition, a a modest undercurrent of carbonation of disparate elements: potent citruses, soft Gotlandsdricka), but as is typical of insular providing just enough lift. We’ve definitely smoke, savory undercurrents (courtesy of cultures, most everything is sourced locally, never had anything quite like this beer both rye and wood contributions). This is and traditions endure a bit longer than is before... That touch of rye adds a comforting very much a beer worth spending some often seen on the mainland. Primitive, raw, warmth and spice, while the birch-smoked time with: a conversation-inspiring combo wild beer, Gotlandsdricka is indeed a rare, malt is exceptionally well integrated: super of nontraditional smoke, funky yeast traditional style. smooth, nothing close to the face-punch contributions, beyond-normal-bounds grain of lesser rauchbiers, and it works great additions, herbaceous juniper... There’s This month, we’re able to offer this special alongside the other core notes here. (Not so much going on here. It’s an odd, and release from Rowley Farmhouse Ales as a anything close to astringent, despite the firm highly uncommon, experience to be sipping Rare Beer Club exclusive offer. This beer will smoke experience.) This old style might take Gotlandsdricka. We’d share this one. be sold through the club and the brewery’s a bit of time to get used to, with the wild tasting room only, and it’s one of the hardest- yeast in addition to the core components Aging & Pairing Notes: to-track-down beer styles we’ve featured in of birch-smoked malt and juniper. The a while. juniper offers up a nicely herbaceous, even We’d generally encourage our Rare Beer Club spicy component throughout that had members to dig into this one fresh. There’s This pours a well-hazed, golden-orange us thinking of sahti—but this also very a vibrant combination of sourdough notes, color, capped by a moderate display of much goes off in its own direction from subtle mineral bitterness, and delicate smoke bubbles. As advertised, this feels like fresh, that juniper-heavy style. That smoke and that’s prone to get more muddled over time. turbid, vibrantly yeasty beer. Gotlandsdricka fruits and juniper grow more rounded with As far as pairings go: the combination of and its intricate farmhouse brethren seem a little more time to warm up. As one of herbaceous juniper alongside bright citrus very much appropriate for a world in which the very limited number of opportunities and smoke has us thinking of roasted chicken hazy IPAs have risen to the top-entered to try this historic Scandinavian style, this or pork sausage. That said, we could also see category at the Great American Beer proved to be surprisingly refreshing and a creamier, smooth goat cheese fitting in as Festival (which happened this year). There’s complexly composed—at least in Rowley’s an ideal backdrop. vibrant, sourdough-like tartness immediately contemporary take. apparent, refreshing and citrusy, spilling forth from the aromatics, conjuring fresh- The birch-smoked malt component comes baked bread, lightly tart lemons, and a hint through most clearly at the far end of things, of rye. The smoke is subtle but pervasive: with a robust smoke profile that expands. birch-smoked malt, while of a different (Much respect to Tobias, the smoker of

Beyond the Bottle: More on Gotlandsdricka By Ken Weaver

One of the two featured RBC beers this month is styled as a Gotlandsdricka that includes traditional adds like bog bean, blessed Gotlandsdricka, a particularly out-there style from Sweden one thistle, and bog myrtle. doesn’t see very often. It had me thinking of Finnish sahti, which shares the use of juniper, among other key details. Randy Mosher’s These beers have a lot going on. The only example I can recall trying Radical Brewing and Svante Ekelin’s entry in The Oxford Companion To off the top of my head was the Jester King Gotlandsdricka, many many Beer are both good spots to start digging in. years ago. Närke Kulturbryggeri makes one of the other examples that sees any significant availability. Jopen in the Netherlands and Off The featured beer from Rowley Farmhouse Ales overcomes two of Color in Chicago both have their own versions. Though Mosher and the main challenges in brewing authentically minded Gotlandsdricka: others mentioned that Gotlandsdricka was very possibly the everyday they foraged boughs of juniper from around their local Sante Fe region drink of the Vikings ( was reserved for fancier occasions), they’d (these traditionally get preboiled and/or used to make a filtering base have a tough time finding a steady supply of it today. during lautering), and they acquired birch-smoked malt through a friend who happens to do things like that in the Jemez wilderness, Ken Weaver (@KenWeaver) is a beer writer and cartoonist based in outside of Sante Fe. That addition of a birch-smoked malt provides, Petaluma, California. Check out his weekly post-apocalyptic beer comic as Mosher puts it, “a faint wintergreen tang.” He includes a recipe for at massivepotions.com.

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