“See you at the Taj!”

The Smith Private India Tour of 2016 27th January to 18th February 2016

Tiger by Wayne Jones

Trip report compiled by tour leader Wayne Jones

RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 2

Tour Summary

Where to begin? For some the journey together started (or almost didn’t!) in the snowed-under eastern US. I was reunited with some familiar faces in the desert hub of Dubai airport, a stark contrast to my dazed travellers’ blizzard-ridden hometowns. While in a meteorological vein, our travelling party snowballed further with the addition of the incomparable Bablu in New Delhi. And finally our set was complete when our last two travelling companions joined us after Varanasi.

Officially, though, the Smith Private India Tour began at New Delhi airport where we saw our first local bird – a Jungle Myna. The capital’s air pollution ranks as the worst in the world and we coughed our way to our hotel and back the next morning to catch our flight to India’s holiest city, Varanasi. Who could’ve imagined the amazing sights and sounds that awaited us?! We spent the afternoon in Sarnath where we marvelled at the incredibly preserved and polished sandstone Lion Capital of Ashoka, India’s national emblem. The nearby Hindu monk performing agni puja by Wayne Jones excavation site and Dhamek Stupa, an important Bhuddist monument, provided our first looks at: Rose- ringed Parakeet; Spotted Dove; Peregrine Falcon; a splendid pair of Asian Koels; Indian Grey Hornbill; Jungle Babbler, and Red-whiskered Bulbul.

That evening we loaded up, two-apiece, on cycle rickshaws and took a thrilling ride through the synergistic chaos that is Indian traffic. Our destination was Dasashvamedha Ghat, where the famous nightly Ganga aarti ceremony had already begun. We watched as seven young Hindu monks performed the agni puja, or “worship to fire” ritual. Bells chimed, fiery lamps were held aloft, fans made of peacock feathers were swirled around and conch shells were trumpeted. Once it was all over we made our own offering to the sacred Ganges, setting tiny floating lamps adrift on her waters.

We revisited the Ganges the following morning for a hazy boat ride that revealed the serene side of this bustling city. All along the city’s ghats – stairways leading into the river – Hindu pilgrims came to quietly bathe in her sacred waters. The only clamour came from Black-headed Gulls (of which there were hundreds up and down the river) which squabbled over occasional scraps in the water. After breakfast the credit cards were unleashed for the first (but by no means the last) time on this tour when we visited a silk brocade factory and witnessed the intricate workmanship involved in this craft, for which Varanasi is renowned. The day’s other attractions included: the Varanasi’s ghats from the River Ganges by Wayne Jones Shri Vishwanath Mandir (temple) at RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 3

Banares Hindu University; the Monkey Temple, and some welcome rest! Our tour coincided with wedding season and at our hotel we encountered the first of many nuptial ceremonies. Some went downstairs to marvel at the festivities and were quickly invited to join in the celebrations which were filled with music, colour, parades and fireworks.

Our last morning in Varanasi saw us visiting the incredible room-sized relief map of the sub-continent at Bharat Mata Mandir, carved out of marble. We also managed a spot of birding; with the tiny grounds of the temple yielding: Brown- headed Barbet; White Wagtail; Brown Rock Chat; Pied Myna; Oriental Magpie- Robin, and a pair of adorable Jungle Owlets. We had a brief last taste of Varanasi’s hectic streets when we walked along a street-side produce market before setting off for the airport. Back in New Delhi we met up with the final two members of our group, who had just Jungle Owlet by Wayne Jones arrived in India.

Our train today was only departing in the evening so we spent a full day in New Delhi. We paid a couple of visits to the vast Okhla Bird Sanctuary where we found huge numbers of waterfowl such as Greylag Goose, Gadwall, Eurasian Wigeon, Indian Spot-billed Duck, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Eurasian Teal, Common Pochard and the striking Tufted Duck. Other species included: our first Indian Peafowl; distant Black-headed Ibis and Eurasian Spoonbill; Black-crowned Night Heron; Purple Heron; Little, Indian and Great Cormorants; Oriental Darter; Greater Spotted Eagle; Western Marsh Harrier; White-breasted Waterhen; Grey-headed Swamphen; lovely Bronze-winged Jacana; Caspian and Pallas’s Gulls; many Yellow-footed Green Pigeons; Greater Coucal; four Spotted Owlets cuddled up to each other; Coppersmith Barbet; Grey-throated Martin; Common Chiffchaff; Greenish Warbler; Yellow-bellied Prinia; Striated Babbler, and Bluethroat and Indian Silverbill - to name but a few.

In between these bouts of birding we made a stop at India Gate, a massive Arc de Triomphe-like structure in the heart of New Delhi. It was a Sunday and the broad boulevard and park area surrounding the monument was teeming with people enjoying their day off. We lapped up the wonderful atmosphere, with Sally proving very popular with locals who vied to be photographed with her! That evening we observed, with fascination, the grapple-hooks and goings-on in Old Delhi Station before embarking on our great adventure - the overnight train ride! We arrived safely, if a tad sleep-deprived, at Ramnagar and quickly transferred to a resort for a tasty hot breakfast and weak coffee. Then, on to the lovely Kosi River where we rushed past Red-billed Blue Magpies to search for Ibisbill along the river before the area became too busy. It didn’t take long. We eventually found three of these striking waders braving the strong (and cold!) current to Posing for pics at India Gate by Wayne Jones RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 4 prod those famous red bills in and around the river’s rounded rocks. We even observed one swimming. The area’s other sought-after bird, Wallcreeper, gave its location away as it flashed its crimson wings while foraging along large river-side boulders. A leisurely walk along the river bank revealed: Common Merganser; Indian Peafowl; Brown Crake; a large party of Little Egrets and Little Cormorants tracking shoals of fish; Crested Serpent Eagle; White-capped and Plumbeous Water Redstarts; River Lapwing; Tawny and Long-billed Pipits, and White- throated, Common, Pied and Crested Kingfishers.

Over the next two days we visited the nearby Mohaan area and birded the forest around our lodge overlooking the Kosi River. Along the high-level Ranikhet Long-billed Thrush by Wayne Jones Road, we had better sightings of two Mountain Hawk-Eagles chasing after each other than we did of the Himalayas which just barely materialised every now and then through the smoky haze. The moist, broad-leafed, woodland and mountainous terrain offered up views of: the sought-after Long-billed Thrush; Great, Lineated and Blue-headed Barbets; Fulvous-breasted; Grey- capped Pygmy; Grey-headed and Rufous Woodpeckers; delightful Collared Falconet; Alexandrine Parakeet; Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike; Common Woodshrike; Common Iora; Long-tailed and Scarlet Minivets; Bronzed and Hair-crested Drongos; Indian Jungle Crow; Yellow-bellied Fantail; Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher; Cinereous Tit; Ashy, Black and Himalayan Bulbuls; Indian Jungle Crow; Nepal House Martin; Grey-hooded Warbler; Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler; Black-chinned Babbler; White-crested and White-throated Laughingthrushes; Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches; Grey-winged Blackbird; White-rumped Shama; Rufous-bellied and Small Niltavas; Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher; Snowy-browed Flycatcher; Speckled Piculet; Golden-fronted and Orange-bellied Leafbirds, and Olive-backed Pipit. Several species were especially accommodating, including: the day’s third Mountain Hawk-Eagle – this one eating something up in a tree; Common Emerald Dove; a Black-rumped Flameback - sitting on top of a bare snag for ages; an exquisite White- tailed Rubythroat, and Little and Spotted Forktails. Near our accommodation, the intrepid and ever- smiling lodge hound alerted us to some Wild Boars and Golden Jackals, although it was the lodge’s tame Asian Elephant that most captured our attention.

Our next point of call was the scenic Jim Corbett National Park where we were hoping to see our first big game. We were not disappointed! The forest held the occasional Northern Red Muntjac, Sambar and Wild Boar while on the open plains we saw many Chital and Hog Deer. At one point, our three-jeep convoy was separated by a herd of 8 elephants. Despite keeping a very reasonable distance and not provoking her at all, the matriarch took exception to us and started charging our vehicles, followed closely by the rest of Little Forktail by Wayne Jones RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 5 the adults. Our convoy splintered off in different directions, regrouping once the pachyderms were satisfied they’d proven their dominance. More elephant adventures lay in store the next time round, however, we were riding them - four to each beast. Thanks to the Park’s Deputy Director, a near- certain Tiger sighting earlier in the day was thwarted, but we got our next shot at a sighting sooner than we thought! Midway through our afternoon elephant ride we were informed of a Tiger up near the road (with elephants being the original “4x4”, we hadn’t exactly been sticking to the beaten track). We raced up to the spot and got glimpses - with varying degrees of satisfaction - of the beautiful large cat bounding into the bush.

Along with the large game Corbett also wowed us with its large birds - we almost stopped looking at Kalij Pheasants because they became so common. Red Junglefowl; Black-necked, Woolly-necked and Black Storks; Western Osprey; Red-headed and Cinereous Vultures; Crested Honey Buzzard; Changeable Hawk-Eagle; Pallas’s and Lesser Fish Eagles; Brown and Tawny Fish Owls, and Great Hornbill were some of the other “big ‘n’ lovelies”. Then again, the smaller ones were just as impressive, and often more colourful. Of these, we were able to see: Slaty-headed Parakeet; Black-hooded and Maroon The calm after the elephant storm by Wayne Jones Orioles; Streak-throated and Scaly-bellied Woodpeckers; White-throated Fantail; Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo; Yellow-eyed Babbler; Red Avadavat and Chestnut-eared Bunting; plus Lesser Yellownape, Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, and Scarlet Minivet in the same tree in camp.

After some final birding in Corbett we set off for Nainital, stopping at Ramnagar Reservoir where scores of Ruddy Shelducks added a splash of warm brown to the greyish scene. Cruising along in our open-top jeeps the air was surprisingly warm, even as we climbed higher into the foothills of the Himalayas.

We were up long before the sun peeped over the mountains on the following day. The primary focus of the morning was to search for two elusive pheasants - Koklass and Cheer - along the steep slopes around Pangot. Thanks to another Rockjumper group we managed to see the Koklass Pheasant quite early on, with scope views of a handsome male in the twilight. The Cheer Pheasant proved much tougher. A combined force of at least twenty pairs of eyes scanned the grass, cladding the vertiginous slopes without success – well, not of the pheasant variety, but we did find: three Himalayan Gorals; Fire-tailed Sunbird; flocks of Altai Accentors; Blue-capped Redstart; Upland Pipit; Rufous Sibia; Eurasian Crag Martin; Large-billed Crow; Alpine Swift; Kalij Pheasant by Wayne Jones RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 6

Himalayan Buzzard; Peregrine Falcon, and Himalayan Vulture.

We eventually moved on to the lovely woodland around the bend where we found: Bar-tailed Creeper; White-tailed Nuthatch; Yellow-browed, Coal and Green-backed Tits; Black-faced Warbler; Oriental White-eye; Black-throated Bushtit; Buff-barred and Ashy-throated Warblers; Yellow-bellied Fantail, Rufous- bellied Woodpecker, and Great Barbet. A Himalayan Woodpecker had just settled in front of us when the other group’s jeeps came racing towards us - Cheer Pheasant had been found! We were delivered to the viewing spot within minutes and everyone managed a quick view of two males and a Himalayan Bulbuls by Wayne Jones female before the beige birds melted back into the straw-coloured landscape.

The rest of the day was spent closer to and in Pangot itself, where we found things like: Blue-fronted Redstart; Slaty-blue Flycatcher; Scaly-breasted Munia; Russet Sparrow; Himalayan Bulbul; Pink- browed Rosefinch; Yellow-breasted Greenfinch; Rock Bunting; Mistle Thrush; Himalayan Bluetail; Striated Prinia; Chestnut-crowned; Striated and Streaked Laughingthrushes, and Black-headed Jay. Much to the photographers’ combined delight we came upon some very confiding Red-billed Blue Magpies and everybody managed to get some good shots of these exquisite creatures. It was a sublime afternoon in the Himalayan foothills, and thankfully it was mostly smoke-free. Heading back to Nainital, we stopped at a viewpoint where many locals had come to admire the glowing snow-capped peaks clearly visible in the distance. Those who were not totally wiped out by the day’s activities made a short trip into town to meander through the Bhutanese market - that did not sell any Bhutanese products - and to stock up on essentials like chocolate and traditional sweets.

The next morning a few of us ventured to another viewpoint at the edge of town but, disappointingly, the Himalayas were totally obscured by low clouds and smog. We received a consolation prize though - at least five richly coloured and intricately patterned Hill Partridges were feeding totally in the open. What a treat it was to see these shy birds so well! We met up with the rest of the group at breakfast and made our way to the next major town, Bhimtal - obliging locals at a couple of stops who wanted their photos taken with some of us. A late morning walk through forest above our lodge was surprisingly productive. We saw: Oriental Turtle Dove; a magnificent Hill Partridge by Wayne Jones Brown Wood Owl; Grey Treepie; Black- headed Jay; Green-backed Tit; Brown-fronted Woodpecker; Black-throated Bushtit; Buff-barred, Lemon-rumped, Grey-hooded and Whistler’s Warblers; White-tailed Nuthatch; Bar-tailed RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 7

Treecreeper; Rufous-bellied Niltav; Blue-capped Redstart; Grey Bushchat; a Yellow-throated Marten, and we had our best looks yet at Greater Yellownape.

In the afternoon we headed to Sattal Lakes Forest Reserve. On the way we found a magnificent male Green-tailed Sunbird and Common Rosefinch. The reserve itself produced: Red Junglefowl; Kalij Pheasant (including a pair of fighting males); Shikra; Blue-throated Barbet; Bronzed Drongo; Mountain Bulbul; Nepal Wren-babbler; Chestnut-headed Tesia, and Red-billed Leiothrix. Just as we spotted a Rufous- chinned Laughingthrush in the fading light, a big commotion broke out on the opposite hillside. The langurs and macaques were making quite a racket and even the muntjacs on our side of valley were spooked. We guessed it had to be a Leopard but unfortunately the forest was too dense Black-headed Jay by Wayne Jones to see.

The following morning we wrapped up our birding in the Bhimtal area – and the Himalayan foothills – with a walk along a productive river. Speckled Piculet; Slaty-headed Parakeet; Cinereous and Himalayan Black-lored Tits; Tickell’s Leaf Warbler; Grey-breasted Prinia; Striated and Streaked Laughingthrushes; Rufous Sibia; Whiskered Yuhina; Spotted Forktail; Blue Whistling Thrush; Slaty- blue Flycatcher; Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, and Rufous-breasted Accentor all showed nicely. Then there was our second Long-billed Thrush for the trip, expertly picked up by Michelle. Best of all was our unbelievable sighting of a responsive Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler that sat out in the open for probably a minute or more - What a cute little bird, and so wonderful to be able to appreciate its fine detailing.

We made numerous birding stops on our way down to the train at Kathgodam, mostly looking for Brown Dipper which we eventually located. It was the Steppe Eagles that really had us though. Who can fail to be impressed when these massive raptors are sailing past at eyelevel, again and again? At one or two places they were perched in trees just metres away, oblivious to the frenzy of activity from the road. We admired these splendid creatures for as long as we could, then continued to our date with the comfy express train waiting in Kathgodam.

We commenced the final leg of our journey with a flight from New Delhi to Jaipur. Once in the “Pink City” we hit the ground running, trying to drink in as much of this beautiful city as possible. The relatively clean air, moderate traffic and wide streets contrasted sharply with the smog and hustle and bustle in Delhi and Varanasi.

We boarded jeeps and wound our way through narrow The Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) at Amber Fort streets to the magnificent hilltop Amber Fort. by Wayne Jones RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 8

Credit cards were once again freed from their pocket prisons at a carpet and printed textile factory where we admired rugs made from silk, cotton and even camel hair (Speaking of camels, they definitely feature closer to the practical - rather than elegant - end of the travel spectrum as we discovered that afternoon).

We topped off the day with a spot of birding along the promenade bordering Man Sagar Lake. With the world’s most opulent “bird hide” as a backdrop - the Jal Mahal, formerly used to host royal duck hunting parties. The lake yielded sightings of: Greylag Goose; Gadwall; Indian Spot-billed Duck; Eurasian Teal; Black-crowned Night Heron; Dalmatian Pelican; Eurasian Coot; Black-winged Stilt; Black-tailed Godwit; Common Redshank; Marsh, Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers; Temminck’s Stint; beautifully plumaged Pallas’s Gulls, and stunning River Tern. Away from the The Jal Mahal with Indian Spot-billed Ducks by Wayne Jones water we also picked up: Rosy Starling; Pied Myna; Purple Sunbird; Yellow-throated Sparrow, and gorgeous Plum-headed Parakeets.

We kicked off our full day in Jaipur with a visit to its most famous landmark - Hawa Mahal, or, Palace of Winds. Occupying prime position, opposite the ornate façade, was a matching terra cotta mat. We thought it was there to guide tourists to the perfect photo placement, but then a white podium bearing the Roland Garros logo was wheeled in and we were truly mystified. It turned out that the French Open silverware was doing a whirlwind tour of India and we had just happened upon the latest photoshoot. The trophies were being housed in the building behind us but sadly the street setting was deemed too risky for their display. We had to make do with looking at the just-snapped images on the official photographer’s cell-phone while the metal tote encasing the silverware was wheeled to a more secure location.

Next up we had our minds well and truly boggled by the 16 giant, astronomical instruments at Jantar Mantar - To think these incredible and highly accurate devices were built in the 18th century! Leaving this scientific sculpture garden behind, we walked to the city palace. This superb complex deserved a full day’s exploration in itself, but we managed to see a lot in our short time there. The Mubarak Mahal housed a collection of intricately embroidered and painstakingly stitched clothes and fabrics. The gyroscopic night-time polo ball on display near the exit was a great idea, though we were sceptical of its effectiveness. At the Craft Demonstration Hall we witnessed the precision that goes into Indian Miniature Painting. Sally was even lucky enough to end up with a personalised Rupee note! We then moved on to Sileh Khana, the former armoury where hundreds of ornate weapons were on display. Our jaws dropped, not only at Jai Prakash Yantra at Jantar Mantar by Wayne Jones the workmanship of each and every weapon, but also RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 9 from contemplating their usage. Our last stop within the palace was the Sabha Niwas (the Durbar Hall or Hall of Public Audience).

After lunch we drove up to Nahargarh Fort, which afforded us a sweeping view out over the city. The forbidding structure is surrounded by wilderness and we snuck in a few good birds such as: Grey Francolin; Small Minivet; a trio of Spotted Owlets; Green Bee-eater; the colour-splashed Coppersmith Barbet; Common Woodshrike; Dusky Crag Martin; Large Grey Babbler; Brahminy Starling, and Indian Robin.

With our Jaipur cultural interlude finished, we resumed our search for the country’s most famous animal, this time at Ranthambore National Park. This tiger reserve is widely regarded as the best place Coppersmith Barbet by Wayne Jones in India to see the striped predator, to which I think we’ll all now attest!

On our first afternoon we found a male Tiger resting in a dry drainage line. After a few minutes he eased up and sauntered towards the lake, but unfortunately his approach was blocked by an over- zealous vehicle. Turning round, he headed up the hill and came to rest alongside the road where we watched him unsuccessfully stalk some Sambar - saliva streaming from his mouth. On our way out of the reserve we had a distant sighting of a female Tiger - apparently the sibling of the male we’d just seen. We returned to the hotel that evening elated. Jim and Maria were returning home the next day – what a send-off!

The following day didn’t have quite the same degree of good fortune, although we did enjoy some good birding. We made two visits to the reserve and did a short lunchtime walk near our hotel. Species encountered included: Grey Francolin; Woolly-necked Stork; Indian Vulture; Crested Serpent Eagle; a pair of Indian Stone- curlews; Common Snipe; Green Sandpiper; Temminck’s Stint; Yellow-footed Green Pigeon; Spotted Dove; Brown Fish Owl; Indian Roller; three sensational Stork-billed Kingfishers; Eurasian Hoopoe; Yellow-crowned Woodpecker; Black-rumped Flameback; Plum-headed Parakeet; Small Minivet; Southern Grey Shrike; White-bellied Drongo; White- browed Fantail; a distant Verditer Flycatcher; Indian Silverbill; White Wagtail; White-capped Bunting, and a few memorable Rufous Treepies - that thought our heads were perfect perches. On the mammal front we only heard Tiger but we did see: Ruddy Mongoose; Nilgai; Chital; Sambar, and Southern Plains Grey Langur. A friendly Rufous Treepie by Wayne Jones RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 10

We rose early the next morning for a change in scenery - and pace - with a visit to the bird-rich Soorwal Lake. Waterfowl were prolific with: beautiful Bar-headed Geese; Ruddy Shelduck; Eurasian Wigeon; Knob-billed Duck; Indian Spot-billed Duck; Northern Pintail, and Eurasian Teal.

The shallow, expansive waterbody also played host to: Greater Flamingo; Eurasian Spoonbill; Dalmatian Pelican; Western Osprey; Pied Avocet; Black-winged Stilt; Little Ringed Plover; numerous Common Snipes; Black-tailed Godwit; two stunningly elegant Eurasian Curlews; Common Redshank; Ruff; Small Pratincole; Pallas’s Gull, and Gull-billed and River Terns. In the scrub along the berm wall we spotted: Eurasian Collared and Laughing Doves; White-throated Kingfisher; Greater Coucal; Green Bee- eater; Indian Bush Lark; Ashy and Plain Prinias; Large Grey Babbler; a handsome White-throated Kingfisher by Wayne Jones male Red-headed Bunting and, most excitingly, a Jungle Cat being mobbed by a variety of birds. Moving further down through the agricultural lands we picked up: Eurasian Hoopoe; Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark; two delightful Wire-tailed Swallows, and Western Yellow Wagtail. We also had close looks at the locals’ catch of the day – a large catfish with enormous whiskers.

In the afternoon we scored one of the better zones in the reserve. Not long after entering we heard Chital alarm calls so we quickly headed over. We came upon a glorious female Tiger strolling along the road, pausing momentarily to sniff or spray her invisible boundaries. Best of all there were only two vehicles at the sighting – ours in front and another vehicle following behind her. We drove ahead of her for around 10 minutes, watching her padded form pass through stripes of sunlight and shadow. Moving on, we sought out a patch overlooking a small lake where we watched two Sambar stags sparring, Wild Boars wading through the shallows and a Mugger Crocodile lazing on a log. Indian Pond Herons and Little Egrets rode on the backsides of Sambar, catching little creatures stirred up by the deer’s progress through the water. A Red-headed Vulture sailed over, giving us our best looks yet. On and around the lake we watched: Cotton Pygmy Goose; Mallard; Garganey; Little and Indian Cormorants; Western Marsh Harrier; White-breasted Waterhen; Bronze-winged Jacana; Spotted Redshank, and Alexandrine Parakeet.

Suddenly someone spotted another Tiger - the same male we’d seen two days before. He moved down towards the water but never made any serious play for the closest Sambars which were now discreetly increasing the distance between themselves and the newcomer. He surveyed the scene for a few more minutes before rising to his feet again and walking past and off into the distance - passing within metres of the other vehicles that had The new craze: selfies with Tiger! By Wayne Jones quickly gathered. It was simply sublime, RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 11 with the late afternoon light tinting the dry grass and bark-less logs almost the same orange as the big cat.

We had a final walk near our hotel the next morning, during which our only new bird was Common Babbler. We ogled our last “tigers” in the numerous beautiful murals decorating Sawai Madhopur Train Station and made our third train journey - this time to Bharatpur. Sadly, due to a passing in the family, our wonderful local guide - Bablu - had to leave us just as we’d reached his hometown.

We spent the next day being sedately pedalled around Keoladeo Ghana National Park, a world away from our previous cycle-rickshaw experience in Varanasi! Orange-headed Thrush by Wayne Jones This world-famous park contains a series of massive, man-made, wetlands and surrounding scrubland that was once host to gratuitous royal waterfowl shoots. It was one of the “birdiest” days of the tour with: a dozen species of waterfowl; 8 herons; 7 raptors, and 4 rallids being among the day’s spoils. Species included: Lesser Whistling and Knob-billed Ducks; Greylag and Bar- headed Geese; Gadwall; picture-perfect Northern Pintail; Ferruginous Duck; Little Grebe; Black- necked and Painted Storks; Black-headed and Glossy Ibises; 3 Black Bitterns; Oriental Darter; Greater Spotted, Tawny and Booted Eagles; Grey-headed Swamphen; White-tailed Lapwing; Bronze-winged Jacana; Indian Grey Hornbill; Brown-headed Barbet; Yellow-crowned Woodpecker; Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher - our last remaining bulbul – White-eared, Clamorous and Blyth’s Reed Warblers; Common Tailorbird; Common Babbler; Brahminy Starling; Siberian Rubythroat; Bluethroat; a female Grey Bushchat, and a very confiding Orange-headed Thrush.

Birds weren’t the only attraction, we also managed to see: Golden Jackal; Small Asian Mongoose; Nilgai (including some nice bulls); Chital; Rhesus Monkey; the omnipresent Five-striped Palm Squirrel; a Bengal Monitor catching some winter sun rays, and a slinky young Indian Rock Python curled up in a warm spot. We also had 8 Indian Scops Owls - not one of which was even remotely easy to find! Thankfully the local park guides and rickshaw cyclists knew where to find them. And on our way out we saw our fourth and fifth Sarus Cranes of the day - these last two providing much more satisfying views than the first three we had Yellow-wattled Lapwing by Wayne Jones scoped in the distance.

We squeezed in one more activity before retiring to our hotel for the evening. We headed to a nearby village and walked narrow streets filled with animals and onlookers to an unassuming cesspool. RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 12

Despite the presence of the curious - and highly excitable - local kids, we got great flight views of a female Greater Painted-snipe plus a Citrine Wagtail.

On our way out of Bharatpur the next morning, Bablu met up with us to say a final goodbye and take us to a field where Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Lesser Whitethroat and Green Bee-eater showed nicely. Before arriving at Agra - home to the Taj Mahal - we visited the 16th century city of Fatehpur Sikri with its blend of Hindu, Jain and Islamic architecture. The preservation of many of the intricately carved façades is amazing given that the base material is red sandstone. We also braved the crowds, vendors and groups of schoolchildren to visit Jama Masjid. This mosque complex featured even more The Taj Mahal by Wayne Jones astounding carving and inlay work and was definitely worth the visit.

Next up was the Red Fort, with more superb architecture, stonework, arches and our first views of the Taj Mahal! Oh, and an Oriental Honey Buzzard and some Egyptian Vultures too! Edging ever closer to the Taj, we stopped off at the Mehtab Bagh (Moonlight Garden) on the opposite bank of the Yamuna River. The afternoon was turned on its head when, thanks to Pat’s careful scanning, two close friends from the U.S. were located among the scattered tourists. (What were the chances?!) Kathy and Barry were on a tour in India at the same time, but our itineraries never quite synced until now. They’d be visiting the Taj Mahal the following morning – same time as us. After much excited catching-up and posing for pictures we parted with the words “See you at the Taj!” for how often does one get to say that?

The next morning it was time to visit the monument to love, one of the world’s greatest buildings, the Taj Mahal! We started early to avoid the masses and make the most of the light for photography. Three-and-a-half of the four minarets were unfortunately undergoing scaffolded refurbishment. Since this only happens every ten years or so it could be argued that we saw the Taj in an even rarer state of being! But never mind those minarets – there was more than enough to marvel at, both from a distance and up close. The sheer amount of precise inlay work and the otherworldly translucence of the white marble took our breath away. We also had our best views, by far, of Dusky Eagle Owl and Egyptian Vulture. Having witnessed the beauty that can be created by human hands we visited an inlay factory nearby. Observing the amount of skill and time that goes into each piece elevated our already lofty respect for the craft.

From Agra we ventured south-east to our final port of call near the Chambal River. Black-bellied Tern by Wayne Jones In the stillness of the afternoon we boarded RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 13 two boats and eased up the broad and deceptively placid-looking river. Being on a boat afforded us a close approach to the wildlife which included: Gharial; Marsh Mugger; a massive Indian Soft-shell Turtle; Nilgai coming down to drink; Bar-headed Goose; Lesser Whistling Duck; Pied Kingfisher; Common Snipe; over 50 delightful Small Pratincoles; Black-bellied and River Terns; Great Stone- curlew; River Lapwing; Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers; Long-legged Buzzard; nesting Bonelli’s Eagle; Western Osprey; Red-naped Ibis; Eurasian Spoonbill, and Asian Openbill. It was the perfect way to cap off three magical but intense weeks of travelling around the country. On our way back to the lodge we paused to take in the audio/visual spectacle of a wedding band practising for the night’s upcoming celebrations. At the lodge itself, those of us who weren’t exhausted after dinner managed to get beautiful views of a Common Palm Civet before heading to bed.

We began our final morning with yet another delicious spread at our fabulous rustic lodge, and scoped views of a Brown Hawk-Owl in the garden. Most of the day was then spent driving back to Delhi - the air getting thicker and greyer as we approached. We saw the odd bird along the way, but best of all was a total of seven Sarus Cranes. Our final bit of birding involved a gorgeous little Indian Scops Owl in the garden of our New Delhi hotel, proving yet again that despite its obvious environmental problems the city still provides sanctuary for an amazing array of birdlife.

Wedding band practice by Wayne Jones That night our tour ended as it had begun – unofficially – in Dubai where we said our goodbyes. Thank you for making this an incredible and unforgettable tour!

RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 14

Annotated List of species recorded

Birds (343 species seen) Nomenclature and taxonomy follows Gill, F and D Donsker (Eds). 2015. IOC World Bird List (v 5.3). List powered through the report generator of our partner iGoTerra.

Status codes: E = Endemic, NE = Near-endemic, I = Introduced IUCN codes: CR = Critically endangered, EN = Endangered, VU = Vulnerable, EW = Extinct in the Wild, NT = Near Threatened, DD = Data Deficient Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl Anatidae Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Greylag Goose Anser anser rubrirostris Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 9.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus Soorwal Dam 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Ramnagar Kosi Reservoir 5.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Agra 16.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Gadwall Anas strepera strepera Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 and Ranthambore NP 13.2 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos platyrhynchos Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Indian Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, observed Jaipur 9-11.2, Ranthambore NP 13.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Northern Pintail Anas acuta Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Garganey Anas querquedula Ranthambore NP 13.2 Eurasian Teal Anas crecca crecca Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jim Corbett NP 3.2, observed Jaipur 9-11.2, Ranthambore NP 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Common Pochard Aythya ferina Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 Common Merganser Mergus merganser 10 Mohaan 1.2 Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies Phasianidae Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus Jaipur 10.2, Jaipur 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Agra 16.2 and 1 Chambal River 17.2 Hill Partridge Arborophila torqueola RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 15

5 Nainital 7.2 Koklass Pheasant Pucrasia macrolopha 5 Pangot 6.2 Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus murghi Mohaan 2.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2 and Bhimtal 7.2 Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos 6 Mohaan 2.2, 12 Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2 and Bhimtal 7.2 Cheer Pheasant Catreus wallichii 3 Pangot 6.2 Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1. observed 13 days in total. Grebes Podicipedidae Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis albescens Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Flamingos Phoenicopteridae Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus Soorwal Dam 13.2 Storks Ciconiidae Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans Soorwal Dam 13.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Black Stork Ciconia nigra Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus episcopus Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Ranthambore NP 12.2 Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus asiaticus Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Ibises and Spoonbills Threskiornithidae Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 11.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Red-naped Ibis Pseudibis papillosa Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Agra 16.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia leucorodia Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns Ardeidae Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis flavicollis Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Striated Heron Butorides striata Mohaan 1.2 and Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 and Mohaan 1.2. observed 10 days in total. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1. observed 10 days in total. RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 16

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea cinerea Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1. observed 10 days in total. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea manilensis Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 11.2, Ranthambore NP 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Great Egret Ardea alba Jim Corbett NP 3.2. observed 10 days in total. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia intermedia Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta Mohaan 1.2. observed 12 days in total. Pelicans Pelecanidae Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2 and Soorwal Dam 13.2 Cormorants and Shags Phalacrocoracidae Little Cormorant Microcarbo niger Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1. observed 13 days in total. Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo sinensis Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2, Jaipur 9.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Agra 16.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Anhingas Anhingidae Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Ranthambore NP 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Osprey Pandionidae Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus haliaetus Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jaipur 9.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Hawks, Eagles, and Kites Accipitridae Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus vociferus New Delhi 27.1, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2, Jaipur 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Agra 16.2, Agra 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Crested Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus ruficollis Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Nainital 5.2 and Agra 16.2 Indian Vulture Gyps indicus Ranthambore NP 12.2 Himalayan Vulture Gyps himalayensis Pangot 6.2, Bhimtal 7.2 and Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvus Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jaipur 11.2 and Ranthambore NP 13.2 Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela 2 heard Mohaan 1.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2 and Ranthambore NP 12.2 Changeable Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2 Mountain Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nipalensis nipalensis RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 17

Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2 and Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 Greater Spotted Eagle Clanga clanga Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Agra 16.2 Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax vindhiana Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis nipalensis Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Pangot 6.2, Nainital 7.2 and Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata fasciata Chambal River 17.2 Shikra Accipiter badius Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Sattal 7.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2 and Bharatpur 16.2 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus aeruginosus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Black Kite Milvus migrans New Delhi 27.1. observed 15 days in total. Pallas's Fish Eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphus Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Lesser Fish Eagle Haliaeetus humilis plumbeus Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus Pangot 6.2 and Nainital 7.2 Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus rufinus Chambal River 17.2 Rails, Gallinules, and Coots Rallidae Brown Crake Amaurornis akool akool 1 heard Mohaan 1.2 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 1.2, Ramnagar Kosi Reservoir 5.2, Jaipur 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Grey-headed Swamphen Porphyrio poliocephalus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 1.2, Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2, observed Jaipur 9-11.2, observed Ranthambore NP 12-14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra atra Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Cranes Gruidae Sarus Crane Grus antigone antigone 5 Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and 7 Agra to Delhi 18.2 Thick-knees Burhinidae Indian Stone-curlew Burhinus indicus Sawai Madhopur 14.2 Great Stone-curlew Esacus recurvirostris RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 18

Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Ibisbill Ibidorhynchidae Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii Mohaan 1.2 Stilts and Avocets Recurvirostridae Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Observed Jaipur 9-11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Agra 16.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta Soorwal Dam 13.2 Plovers and Lapwings Charadriidae River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii Mohaan 1.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus Bharatpur 16.2 Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1. observed 15 days in total. White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Jaipur 10.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Chambal River 17.2 Painted-Snipes Rostratulidae Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis Bharatpur 15.2 Jacanas Jacanidae Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Ranthambore NP 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Sandpipers and Allies Scolopacidae Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago gallinago Sawai Madhopur 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Sawai Madhopur 14.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2 and Soorwal Dam 13.2 Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata Soorwal Dam 13.2 Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus Ranthambore NP 13.2 Common Redshank Tringa totanus Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2 and Soorwal Dam 13.2 Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Jaipur 9.2 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2, Ranthambore NP 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 1.2, Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2, Jaipur 9.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Ranthambore NP 13.2, Sawai Madhopur 14.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Sawai Madhopur 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Ranthambore NP 14.2 RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 19

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Ruff Philomachus pugnax Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Sawai Madhopur 14.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Pratincoles and Coursers Glareolidae Small Pratincole Glareola lactea Soorwal Dam 13.2 and 55 Chambal River 17.2 Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers Laridae Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus Varanasi 29.1 and Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 Pallas's Gull Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans 2 Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica nilotica Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Greater Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii velox Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Black-bellied Tern Sterna acuticauda 4 Chambal River 17.2 Pigeons and Doves Columbidae Rock Dove Columba livia intermedia New Delhi 27.1. observed 23 days in total. Seen daily throughout Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis Nainital 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto decaocto Varanasi 29.1, Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2 and Soorwal Dam 13.2 Red Turtle Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica tranquebarica Agra 17.2 Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis Observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Ranthambore NP 13.2 and Sawai Madhopur 14.2 Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis cambayensis Varanasi 28.1. observed 11 days in total. Common Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica Mohaan 2.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 1.2, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Ranthambore NP 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Cuckoos Cuculidae Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Sawai Madhopur 14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis tristis Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2 Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 20

Varanasi 28.1 Common Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx varius varius Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Owls Strigidae Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena Bharatpur 14.2, 8 Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and New Delhi 18.2 Dusky Eagle-Owl Bubo coromandus coromandus 4 Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and 3 Agra 17.2 Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2 and Ranthambore NP 13.2 Tawny Fish Owl Ketupa flavipes Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica 1 heard Bhimtal 7.2 Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum 2 heard Varanasi 30.1 and Mohaan 5.2 Spotted Owlet Athene brama 4 Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, 4 Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Agra 16.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata Chambal River 18.2 Nightjars and Allies Caprimulgidae Jungle Nightjar Caprimulgus indicus indicus Ranthambore NP 11.2 Treeswifts Hemiprocnidae Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata Mohaan 2.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Swifts Apodidae Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Pangot 6.2 Little Swift Apus affinis Varanasi 29.1, Ranthambore NP 13.2 and Agra 16.2 Rollers Coraciidae Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Sawai Madhopur 11.2, Sawai Madhopur 12.2, Ranthambore NP 13.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Kingfishers Alcedinidae Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis Ranthambore NP 12.2 and Ranthambore NP 13.2 White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Varanasi 28.1. observed 16 days in total. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Mohaan 1.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Sattal 7.2, Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 and observed Ranthambore NP 11-13.2 Crested Kingfisher Megaceryle lugubris Observed Mohaan 1-3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Varanasi 29.1, Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Bee-eaters Meropidae Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 21

Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 10.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Bharatpur 16.2 Hoopoes Upupidae Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and observed Ranthambore NP 12-14.2 Hornbills Bucerotidae Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis Observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2 Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris Varanasi 28.1, Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Bharatpur 16.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Asian Barbets Megalaimidae Great Barbet Psilopogon virens Mohaan 2.2, Pangot 6.2, Nainital 6.2, Sattal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Brown-headed Barbet Psilopogon zeylanicus Up to 1 Varanasi 28-30.1, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Lineated Barbet Psilopogon lineatus hodgsoni Mohaan 2.2, Mohaan 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Blue-throated Barbet Psilopogon asiaticus asiaticus Mohaan 2.2, Mohaan 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Sattal 7.2 Coppersmith Barbet Psilopogon haemacephalus indicus Varanasi 29.1, Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Woodpeckers Picidae Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Pangot 6.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus Pangot 6.2 Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2 Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos macei Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2 Brown-fronted Woodpecker Dendrocopos auriceps auriceps Bhimtal 7.2 Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis Ranthambore NP 12.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Himalayan Woodpecker Dendrocopos himalayensis himalayensis Pangot 6.2 Greater Yellownape Chrysophlegma flavinucha flavinucha Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2, Pangot 6.2 and Bhimtal 7.2 Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus Mohaan 1.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Scaly-bellied Woodpecker Picus squamatus squamatus Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2 and Nainital 6.2 Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus Mohaan 2.2, Mohaan 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Pangot 6.2, Sattal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Himalayan Flameback Dinopium shorii Mohaan 3.2 Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 22

Mohaan 3.2 and Ranthambore NP 12.2 Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes guttacristatus Mohaan 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2 Rufous Woodpecker Micropternus brachyurus Mohaan 1.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Falcons and Caracaras Falconidae Collared Falconet Microhierax caerulescens caerulescens Mohaan 1.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Ranthambore NP 12.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Agra 17.2 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus Varanasi 29.1, Pangot 6.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Old World Parrots Psittaculidae Slaty-headed Parakeet Psittacula himalayana Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Bhimtal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2 and Ranthambore NP 13.2 Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri Mohaan 2.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria Mohaan 1.2 and Ranthambore NP 13.2 Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Varanasi 28.1. observed 17 days in total. Woodshrikes and allies Tephrodornithidae Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus Observed Mohaan 1-3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Mohaan 4.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Jaipur 10.2 and Ranthambore NP 12.2 Ioras Aegithinidae Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Mohaan 1.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Cuckoo-shrikes Campephagidae Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Black-winged Cuckooshrike Coracina melaschistos melaschistos Mohaan 3.2 Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2 and Ranthambore NP 13.2 Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2 and observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2 Shrikes Laniidae Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Bhimtal 7.2, Bhimtal 8.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Sawai Madhopur 14.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis lahtora Sawai Madhopur 12.2 and Sawai Madhopur 13.2 Old World Orioles Oriolidae Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus Observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2 Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii traillii RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 23

Observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2 Drongos Dicruridae Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus Mohaan 1.2, Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2, Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 11.2, observed Ranthambore NP 12-14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Bharatpur 16.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens caerulescens Ranthambore NP 12.2 and Ranthambore NP 13.2 Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus aeneus Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2 and Sattal 7.2 Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer tectirostris Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus hottentottus Mohaan 2.2 Fantails Rhipiduridae White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis Observed Mohaan 1-3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola Observed Ranthambore NP 11-13.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Crows, Jays, and Magpies Corvidae Black-headed Jay Garrulus lanceolatus Pangot 6.2 and Bhimtal 7.2 Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythroryncha occipitalis Mohaan 1.2, Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2, Pangot 6.2 and Bhimtal 7.2 Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jaipur 10.2, observed Ranthambore NP 11-14.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Bhimtal 7.2, Bhimtal 8.2 and Jaipur 9.2 House Crow Corvus splendens New Delhi 27.1. observed 16 days in total. Encountered frequently throughout the tour. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos Pangot 6.2, Nainital 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Indian Jungle Crow Corvus culminatus Varanasi 28.1, Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2, Sawai Madhopur 13.2, Sawai Madhopur 14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Agra 17.2 Fairy Flycatchers Stenostiridae Yellow-bellied Fantail Chelidorhynx hypoxanthus Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Pangot 6.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Mohaan 2.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Chickadees and Tits Paridae Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus Pangot 6.2 Coal Tit Periparus ater Pangot 6.2 Cinereous Tit Parus cinereus Observed Mohaan 1-3.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Bhimtal 8.2, Ranthambore NP 11.2 and Ranthambore NP 12.2 Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus Nainital 5.2, Pangot 6.2 and Sattal 7.2 RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 24

Himalayan Black-lored Tit Machlolophus xanthogenys Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 3.2, Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Larks Alaudidae Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix griseus Sawai Madhopur 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Sawai Madhopur 14.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Indian Bush Lark Mirafra erythroptera Soorwal Dam 13.2 Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla Chambal River 17.2 Bulbuls Pycnonotidae Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus flaviventris flaviventris Mohaan 2.2, Mohaan 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus Observed Varanasi 28-30.1, Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 and Mohaan 1.2 Himalayan Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenys Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2, Pangot 6.2, Nainital 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis leucotis Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Varanasi 29.1. observed 17 days in total. Mountain Bulbul Ixos mcclellandii mcclellandii Sattal 7.2 Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala flavala Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus Mohaan 2.2, Pangot 6.2 and Nainital 7.2 Swallows Hirundinidae Grey-throated Martin Riparia chinensis chinensis Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 1.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2, Ranthambore NP 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Bharatpur 16.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 1.2, Pangot 6.2, Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii filifera Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2 and Soorwal Dam 13.2 Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris Pangot 6.2 Dusky Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne concolor concolor Jaipur 9.2 and Jaipur 10.2 Nepal House Martin Delichon nipalense nipalense Mohaan 1.2 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica Mohaan 1.2 Cupwings Pnoepygidae Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler Pnoepyga albiventer Pangot 6.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Nepal Wren-babbler Pnoepyga immaculata Sattal 7.2 Bush-Warblers and Allies Cettiidae Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps Pangot 6.2 RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 25

Chestnut-headed Tesia Cettia castaneocoronata castaneocoronata Mohaan 2.2, Mohaan 3.2 and Sattal 7.2 Long-tailed Tits Aegithalidae Black-throated Bushtit Aegithalos concinnus Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Pangot 6.2, Bhimtal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Leaf-Warblers Phylloscopidae Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita tristis Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 and Nainital 6.2 Tickell's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis Bhimtal 8.2 Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher Pangot 6.2, Sattal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis Pangot 6.2 Lemon-rumped Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus Sattal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei Varanasi 29.1 Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 2.2 and Mohaan 3.2 Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos Observed Mohaan 1-3.2, Nainital 5.2, Pangot 6.2, Bhimtal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Whistler's Warbler Seicercus whistleri Bhimtal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Reed-Warblers and Allies Acrocephalidae Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Cisticolas and Allies Cisticolidae Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Jim Corbett NP 3.2 Striated Prinia Prinia crinigera Pangot 6.2 Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii Mohaan 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica Jim Corbett NP 3.2 Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis Varanasi 29.1, Varanasi 30.1, Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 9.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Sawai Madhopur 14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Plain Prinia Prinia inornata Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Sawai Madhopur 14.2 Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Varanasi 29.1, Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Nainital 6.2, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Babblers Timaliidae Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys Mohaan 1.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Black-chinned Babbler Stachyridopsis pyrrhops RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 26

Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Laughingthrushes Leiothrichidae Common Babbler Turdoides caudata Sawai Madhopur 14.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Striated Babbler Turdoides earlei Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi Jaipur 10.2, Jaipur 11.2, observed Ranthambore NP 12-14.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Jungle Babbler Turdoides striata Varanasi 28.1. observed 15 days in total. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush Garrulax rufogularis Sattal 7.2 White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis Mohaan 3.2 Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatus Pangot 6.2, Sattal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Streaked Laughingthrush Trochalopteron lineatum Mohaan 2.2, Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2, Pangot 6.2, Bhimtal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush Trochalopteron erythrocephalum Pangot 6.2 Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea Sattal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Rufous Sibia Heterophasia capistrata Pangot 6.2, Sattal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Old World Warblers Sylviidae Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 and Bharatpur 16.2 Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense hypoleucum Jim Corbett NP 3.2 Yuhinas, White-eyes, and Allies Zosteropidae Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis Bhimtal 8.2 Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus Varanasi 30.1, Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Pangot 6.2, Sattal 7.2, Bhimtal 8.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Nuthatches Sittidae Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta cinnamoventris Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2 and Jim Corbett NP 5.2 White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis Pangot 6.2 and Bhimtal 7.2 Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis frontalis Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2 and Jim Corbett NP 3.2 Wallcreeper Tichodromidae Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria nepalensis 1 heard Mohaan 1.2 Treecreepers Certhiidae Bar-tailed Treecreeper Certhia himalayana himalayana Pangot 6.2 and Bhimtal 7.2 Starlings Sturnidae RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 27

Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus New Delhi 27.1, observed Varanasi 28-30.1, observed Jaipur 9-11.2, Sawai Madhopur 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Agra 17.2 Common Myna Acridotheres tristis tristis Varanasi 28.1. observed 18 days in total. Pied Myna Gracupica contra Varanasi 30.1, Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Sawai Madhopur 12.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Agra 16.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Brahminy Starling Sturnia pagodarum Jaipur 10.2, Sawai Madhopur 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Agra 16.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Rosy Starling Pastor roseus Jaipur 9.2 Thrushes and Allies Turdidae Orange-headed Thrush Geokichla citrina Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Long-billed Thrush Zoothera monticola monticola Mohaan 2.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2 and Pangot 6.2 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus bonapartei 5 Pangot 6.2 Old World Flycatchers Muscicapidae Indian Robin Copsychus fulicatus Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Sawai Madhopur 14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Bharatpur 16.2, Chambal River 17.2 and Chambal River 18.2 Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis Varanasi 29.1, Varanasi 30.1, Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 1.2, Jaipur 11.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus Mohaan 2.2 Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara Observed Mohaan 1-3.2 and Bhimtal 7.2 Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae Mohaan 2.2 Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus thalassinus Ranthambore NP 12.2 Bluethroat Luscinia svecica Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 White-tailed Rubythroat Calliope pectoralis Mohaan 2.2 Siberian Rubythroat Calliope calliope Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Himalayan Bluetail Tarsiger rufilatus Pangot 6.2 Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri Mohaan 1.2 and Mohaan 2.2 Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Pangot 6.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 28

Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Nainital 5.2, Pangot 6.2, Sattal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata strophiata Observed Mohaan 1-3.2 Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra hyperythra Mohaan 2.2 Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor Pangot 6.2, Bhimtal 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Blue-capped Redstart Phoenicurus coeruleocephala Pangot 6.2 and Bhimtal 7.2 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Sattal 7.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Sawai Madhopur 14.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis Pangot 6.2 Plumbeous Water Redstart Phoenicurus fuliginosus fuliginosus Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2 and Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 White-capped Redstart Phoenicurus leucocephalus Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2, Pangot 6.2, Bhimtal 7.2 and Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius Chambal River 17.2 Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush Monticola rufiventris Mohaan 2.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Ramnagar to Nainital 5.2 Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus Mohaan 1.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2, Pangot 6.2, Bhimtal 7.2 and Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 Grey Bush Chat Saxicola ferreus Observed Mohaan 1-3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2, Nainital 6.2, Sattal 7.2, Bhimtal 8.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Brown Rock Chat Oenanthe fusca Varanasi 30.1, Ramnagar Kosi Reservoir 5.2, Jaipur 9.2 and Agra 16.2 Dippers Cinclidae Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 Leafbirds Chloropseidae Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons Mohaan 2.2 Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii hardwickii Mohaan 1.2 Sunbirds and Spiderhunters Nectariniidae Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus Varanasi 29.1. observed 13 days in total. Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis Bhimtal 7.2 Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda ignicauda Pangot 6.2 Old World Sparrows Passeridae House Sparrow Passer domesticus RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 29

Varanasi 30.1. observed 14 days in total. Russet Sparrow Passer rutilans cinnamomeus Pangot 6.2, Nainital 7.2 and Bhimtal 8.2 Yellow-throated Sparrow Gymnoris xanthocollis Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Agra 16.2 Weavers and Allies Ploceidae Black-breasted Weaver Ploceus benghalensis Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus Chambal River 17.2 Waxbills and Allies Estrildidae Red Avadavat Amandava amandava amandava Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Indian Silverbill Euodice malabarica Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Ranthambore NP 11.2 and Ranthambore NP 12.2 Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata Pangot 6.2 Accentors Prunellidae Altai Accentor Prunella himalayana Pangot 6.2 Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata 2 Bhimtal 8.2 Wagtails and Pipits Motacillidae Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava 3 Soorwal Dam 13.2 Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Bharatpur 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea cinerea Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, Bhimtal to Kathgodam 8.2 and Jaipur 11.2 White Wagtail Motacilla alba Varanasi 30.1, Okhla Bird Sanctuary 31.1, Mohaan 1.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2, Agra 16.2 and Chambal River 17.2 White-browed Wagtail Motacilla maderaspatensis Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Ranthambore NP 14.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2 and Sawai Madhopur 14.2 Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris Mohaan 1.2 Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis Mohaan 1.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni Mohaan 2.2 and Ranthambore NP 12.2 Upland Pipit Anthus sylvanus 2 Pangot 6.2 Finches, Euphonias Fringillidae Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus Bhimtal 7.2 Pink-browed Rosefinch Carpodacus rodochroa 2 Pangot 6.2 Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Chloris spinoides Pangot 6.2 RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 30

Buntings, Sparrows and Allies Emberizidae Rock Bunting Emberiza cia Pangot 6.2 White-capped Bunting Emberiza stewarti Ranthambore NP 12.2 Chestnut-eared Bunting Emberiza fucata arcuata Jim Corbett NP 3.2 Red-headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps Soorwal Dam 13.2

Mammals (27 species seen)

Status codes: E = Endemic, NE = Near-endemic, I = Introduced IUCN codes: CR = Critically endangered, EN = Endangered, VU = Vulnerable, EW = Extinct in the Wild, NT = Near Threatened, DD = Data Deficient Wolves, Coyote, Foxes, Jackals Canidae Golden Jackal Canis aureus 2 Mohaan 1.2, Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Cats Felidae Jungle Cat Felis chaus Soorwal Dam 13.2 Tiger Panthera tigris tigris Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Ranthambore NP 11.2 and Ranthambore NP 13.2 Mongooses Herpestidae Indian Grey Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii Jaipur 10.2 Small Asian Mongoose Herpestes javanicus Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2, Agra 17.2 and New Delhi 18.2 Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii Ranthambore NP 12.2 Weasels, Skunks, Otters Mustelidae Smooth-coated Otter Lutrogale perspicillata 6 Jim Corbett NP 4.2 Yellow-throated Marten Martes flavigula Bhimtal 7.2 Vivets, Genets Viverridae Common Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphroditus Chambal River 17.2 Cattle, Antelopes, Sheep, Goats Bovidae Nilgai Boselaphus tragocamelus Ranthambore NP 11.2, Ranthambore NP 12.2, Soorwal Dam 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Dorcas Gazelle Gazella dorcas Ranthambore NP 11.2 Himalayan Goral Naemorhedus goral 3 Pangot 6.2 Deer Cervidae Chital Axis axis Mohaan 1.2, Mohaan 2.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2, observed Ranthambore NP 11-14.2 and Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Hog Deer Axis porcinus Jim Corbett NP 3.2 and Jim Corbett NP 4.2 RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 31

Northern Red Muntjac Muntiacus vaginalis Mohaan 2.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2 and Sattal 7.2 Sambar Rusa unicolor Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 4.2, Pangot 6.2 and observed Ranthambore NP 11-13.2 Pigs Suidae Wild Boar Sus scrofa 11 Mohaan 1.2, observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2, Nainital 6.2 and observed Ranthambore NP 11-13.2 Old World Fruit Bats Pteropodidae Greater Shortnosed Fruit Bat Cynopterus sphinx Chambal River 17.2 Rabbits, Hares Leporidae Indian Hare Lepus nigricollis Mohaan 1.2 Old World monkeys Cercopithecidae Rhesus Monkey Macaca mulatta Varanasi 28.1. observed 16 days in total. Southern Plains Gray Langur Semnopithecus dussumieri Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2 and observed Ranthambore NP 11-14.2 Tarai Gray Langur Semnopithecus hector Mohaan 1.2. observed 8 days in total. Nepal Gray Langur Semnopithecus schistaceus Mohaan 2.2 Elephants Elephantidae Asian Elephant Elephas maximus indicus Jim Corbett NP 4.2 True Mice and Rats, Gerbils, Spiny Mice, Crested Rat Muridae House Mouse Mus musculus Mohaan 1.2 Brown Rat Rattus norvegicus New Delhi 31.1, Jaipur 9.2, Jaipur 10.2 and Ranthambore NP 13.2 Squirrels Sciuridae Five-striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennantii Varanasi 28.1. observed 13 days in total.

Reptiles (8 species seen)

Status codes: E = Endemic, NE = Near-endemic, I = Introduced IUCN codes: CR = Critically endangered, EN = Endangered, VU = Vulnerable, EW = Extinct in the Wild, NT = Near Threatened, DD = Data Deficient Crocodiles and relatives Crocodylidae Mugger Crocodile Crocodylus palustris Observed Jim Corbett NP 3-5.2, observed Ranthambore NP 11-13.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Indian Gharial Gavialis gangeticus Jim Corbett NP 3.2, Jim Corbett NP 5.2 and Chambal River 17.2 Colubrid snakes Colubridae Checkered Keelback Xenochrophis piscator Mohaan 1.2 Pythonidae Pythonidae Indian Python Python molurus Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Monitor Lizards Varanidae Bengal Monitor Varanus bengalensis RBT Smith Private India 2016 Trip Report 32

Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 Asian River Turtles, Leaf and Roofed Turtles, Asian Box Turtles Geoemydidae Yellow-bellied Tent Turtle Pangshura tentoria tentoria Chambal River 17.2 Softshell Turtles Trionychidae Indian softshell turtle Nilssonia gangetica Ranthambore NP 12.2, Ranthambore NP 13.2, Keoladeo Ghana NP (Bharatpur BS) 15.2 and Chambal River 17.2

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