Iran in Depth

IRAN IN DEPTH In conjunction with the Near East Archaeological Foundation, Sydney University APRIL 25 – MAY 17, 2017 TOUR LEADER: BEN CHURCHER Iran in depth Overview The Persian Empire, based within modern Iran’s borders, was a significant Tour dates: April 25 – May 17, 2017 force in the ancient world, when it competed and interacted with both Greece and Rome and was the last step on the Silk Road before it Tour leader: Ben Churcher reached Europe and one of the first steps of Islam outside Arabia. In its heyday, Iran boasted lavish architecture that inspired Tamerlane’s Tour Price: $11,889 per person, twin share Samarqand and the Taj Mahal, and its poets inspired generations of Iranians and foreigners, while its famed gardens were a kind of earthly Single Supplement: $1,785 for sole use of paradise. In recent times Iran has slowly re-established itself as a leading double room nation of the Middle East. Booking deposit: $500 per person Over 23 days we travel through the spring-time mountain and desert landscapes of Iran and visit some of the most remarkable monuments in Recommended airline: Emirates the ancient and Islamic worlds. We explore Achaemenid palaces and royal tombs, mysterious Sassanian fire temples, enchanting mud-brick cities on Maximum places: 20 the desert fringes, and fabled Persian cities with their enchanting gardens, caravanserais, bazaars, and stunning cobalt-blue mosques. Perhaps more Itinerary: Tehran (3 nights), Astara (1 night), importantly, however, we encounter the unsurpassed friendliness and Tabriz (3 nights), Zanjan (2 nights), Shiraz (5 hospitality of the Iranian people which leave most travellers longing to nights), Yazd (3 nights), Isfahan (4 Nights), return. Tehran (1 night) Date published: May 17, 2016 Your tour leader Ben Churcher has a wide range of experience as an educator, a traveller, a historian and an archaeologist. Since 1983 Ben has been involved in the yearly University of Sydney excavations at the site of Pella in Jordan and he is, at present, the field director of the project. Ben is a life member of the Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation and works with Aboriginal archaeology when in Australia. Since 1994 Ben has lead tours with like- minded travellers and over this time has visited an eclectic range of destinations including Jordan, Greece, Syria, Egypt, China, Morocco, Mexico and Central Asia. The common thread is Ben’s fascination with all things archaeological and an interest in history as broad as the range of countries he has visited. Ben first visited Iran as a tour leader in 2006 and the chance to walk in the footsteps of Alexander the Great, Sassanians and Saffavids was a dream come true. While Ben has led several successful tours to Iran, it never ceases to amaze him that a common reaction is “why would you want to go there?” Contrary to popular opinion, Iran is safe and genuinely welcoming of foreigners. Women may have to don a scarf and wear a full length dress, Enquiries and but beyond this inconvenience you can walk the streets free from bookings harassment or threat, visit incomparable archaeological sites with no more hindrance than talking with a gaggle of giggling teenagers and immerse For further information and to yourself in a cosmopolitan country with a deep history and a wonderful secure a place on this tour and varied culture. please contact Stuart Barrie at Academy Travel on 9235 A passenger on Ben’s most recent tour commented: “As ever Ben 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Churcher provided impeccable information, care and company. We saw Sydney) or email some unique places and all done in good humour. Thanks again Ben” [email protected] Persepolis Image: the spectacular Gate of All Nations at Persepolis For a country with such an extensive history, there are literally hundreds of ancient sites in Iran: each a testament to a particular period of Iranian history. Whether it is the mudbrick ziggurat at Choga Zanbil dating to the second millennium BCE or the magnificent tile work at the seventeenth century CE Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque at Isfahan, each is unique and fascinating in its own right. However, the most popular and well-known site in Iran is undoubtedly Persepolis: the city of Persia. The Greek name for the site, Persepolis, is only part right: Persepolis was certainly built and occupied by the Persians in the fifth century BCE, but it wasn’t a city. Rather, it was a ceremonial complex of palaces, treasuries and storerooms, and archaeologists have so far failed to find an attached ‘city’ where merchants, farmers and labourers may have lived. Indeed it seems that for most of the year, Persepolis was virtually deserted apart from a garrison and a skeleton staff of servants to maintain the buildings and their sumptuous interiors. However, at one time of the year, at No Rouz or the New Year festival, Persepolis would have been crowded with Persian and Median dignitaries, and dozens of ambassadors from the four corners of the Persian Empire. The location of the site is today evocative as it stands at the head of a broad valley beneath Mt Rahmat and is itself elevated on a huge podium 12m high. As it probably was in Persian times, the valley is a rich agricultural region that also contains the city of Shiraz located around 80km to the southwest. It is also clear that Persepolis was at the heart of the Persian Empire and the spiritual home of the Persians themselves. Around 50km to the north is Pasargadae; the royal capital first constructed by the founder of the Persian Empire, Cyrus the Great, and right next door is Naqsh-e Rostam, the royal burial place of such Persian luminaries as Darius and Xerxes the Great. Literally dripping with symbolism, Persepolis was used by the Persians to awe their guests and to reinforce the central tenants of the Persian Empire which was the world’s first multinational empire. Remarkably well-preserved reliefs at the site show two things: one that the Persian Empire was a coalition between the Persians and the Medes as they are often shown hand-in- hand, and two, that at No Rouz ambassadors came from all parts of the empire bearing tributes of their local produce: Armenians bring cloth, Greeks bear bales of wool, Egyptians bring a bull and Indians hold bags of spice (or possibly gold dust). The multinational character of the Persian Empire is even emphasised in the site’s architecture from the Assyrian inspired Gate of All Nations through which one entered the complex to the graceful Grecian fluting on the columns. In all, Persepolis was an imperial statement and every corner screams what the Persian, Babylonian and Elamite inscription above the Gate of All Nations tells us: “I am Xerxes… King of Kings, King of lands, King of many races…”. No one visiting Persepolis at No Rouz could have failed to have this impression hammered home: in their day, they were in the presence of the most powerful man on earth. Tour Highlights The remarkable museums and Qajar palaces of Tehran The beautiful Armenian church of St Stephanos, near Tabriz, set within spectacular mountain scenery The imposing Mausoleum of Uljeitu and the palaces, fire temples, and 'bottomless' lake of Sassanian Takht-e Soleiman The gardens of Shiraz, where Persia's poets are celebrated The ruined palace of Ardashir and vast walled city of Bishapur with its stunning rock reliefs The great Achaemenid sites of Persepolis and Pasargadae The desert city of Yazd, with its evocative Zoroastrian Towers of Silence The UNESCO World Heritage city of Isfahan, centre of the 'renaissance' Safavid period Above: the Royal tombs carved out of the rock face at Naqsh-e Rostam Above: fresco of Shah Abbas II entertaining Nader Mohammed Khan, King of Turkistan, in Chehel Sotoun, Isfahan Above: the Sheikh Lotfallah Mosque is one of the many beautiful buildings found around Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan Detailed itinerary Included meals are shown with the symbols B, L and D. Tuesday 25 April Arrival Arrive into Tehran where you will be met and transferred to our hotel. In the afternoon visit the fabulous State’s Jewels Museum which showcases some of the magnificent jewellery belonging to the last kings of Iran. Overnight Tehran (D) Wednesday 26 April Tehran museums Today is devoted to visiting some of Tehran’s Museums, demonstrating the rich cultural heritage of the country. The visits include the archaeological section of Iran’s National Museum, the Abguineh Museum, featuring a valuable collection of pre-Islamic and Islamic glass and ceramics, beautifully displayed and located in an elegant early 20th- century mansion, and the Reza Abbasi Museum. Overnight Tehran (B, L, D) Above: architect Hossein Amanat combined elements of Sassanid and Islamic architecture in his design for what is now known as Azadi or Freedom Thursday 27 April Tower in Tehran Golestan Palace Below: the intricately carved Marble Throne on display in the Golestan Palace Complex; and the Carpet Museum in Tehran exhibits a variety of Persian This morning we visit the Golestan Palace and Museum carpets from all over Iran, dating from the 18th century to the present day Complex, the former residence of the 19th and early 20th century Qajar Kings of Iran, incorporating several museums including the Marble Throne Room. After a break for lunch we visit the Carpet Museum to see the extensive collection of old and new Persian carpets and rugs sourced from all over Iran. Overnight Tehran (B, L, D) Friday 28 April The Caspian Sea Departing Tehran we travel north through the Elburz Mountains and then along the shores of the Caspian Sea via the port of Anzali.

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