IRAN IN DEPTH

In conjunction with the Near East Archaeological Foundation, Sydney University

APRIL 25 – MAY 17, 2017 TOUR LEADER: BEN CHURCHER

Iran in depth Overview

The Persian Empire, based within modern Iran’s borders, was a significant Tour dates: April 25 – May 17, 2017 force in the ancient world, when it competed and interacted with both Greece and Rome and was the last step on the Silk Road before it Tour leader: Ben Churcher reached Europe and one of the first steps of Islam outside Arabia. In its heyday, Iran boasted lavish architecture that inspired Tamerlane’s Tour Price: $11,889 per person, twin share Samarqand and the , and its poets inspired generations of Iranians and foreigners, while its famed gardens were a kind of earthly Single Supplement: $1,785 for sole use of paradise. In recent times Iran has slowly re-established itself as a leading double room nation of the Middle East. Booking deposit: $500 per person Over 23 days we travel through the spring-time mountain and desert landscapes of Iran and visit some of the most remarkable monuments in Recommended airline: Emirates the ancient and Islamic worlds. We explore Achaemenid palaces and royal tombs, mysterious Sassanian fire temples, enchanting mud-brick cities on Maximum places: 20 the desert fringes, and fabled Persian cities with their enchanting gardens, , , and stunning cobalt-blue . Perhaps more Itinerary: Tehran (3 nights), Astara (1 night), importantly, however, we encounter the unsurpassed friendliness and (3 nights), Zanjan (2 nights), (5 hospitality of the Iranian people which leave most travellers longing to nights), (3 nights), (4 Nights), return. Tehran (1 night)

Date published: May 17, 2016 Your tour leader Ben Churcher has a wide range of experience as an educator, a traveller, a historian and an archaeologist. Since 1983 Ben has been involved in the yearly University of Sydney excavations at the site of Pella in Jordan and he is, at present, the field director of the project. Ben is a life member of the Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation and works with Aboriginal archaeology when in Australia. Since 1994 Ben has lead tours with like- minded travellers and over this time has visited an eclectic range of destinations including Jordan, Greece, Syria, Egypt, China, Morocco, Mexico and Central Asia. The common thread is Ben’s fascination with all things archaeological and an interest in history as broad as the range of countries he has visited. Ben first visited Iran as a tour leader in 2006 and the chance to walk in the footsteps of Alexander the Great, Sassanians and Saffavids was a dream come true.

While Ben has led several successful tours to Iran, it never ceases to amaze him that a common reaction is “why would you want to go there?” Contrary to popular opinion, Iran is safe and genuinely welcoming of foreigners. Women may have to don a scarf and wear a full length dress, Enquiries and but beyond this inconvenience you can walk the streets free from bookings harassment or threat, visit incomparable archaeological sites with no more hindrance than talking with a gaggle of giggling teenagers and immerse For further information and to yourself in a cosmopolitan country with a deep history and a wonderful secure a place on this tour and varied culture. please contact Frederick Steyn at Academy Travel on A passenger on Ben’s most recent tour commented: “As ever Ben 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 Churcher provided impeccable information, care and company. We saw (outside Sydney) or email some unique places and all done in good humour. Thanks again Ben” [email protected] .au

Persepolis

Image: the spectacular at

For a country with such an extensive history, there are literally hundreds of ancient sites in Iran: each a testament to a particular period of Iranian history. Whether it is the mudbrick ziggurat at Choga Zanbil dating to the second millennium BCE or the magnificent tile work at the seventeenth century CE Sheikh Lotfollah at Isfahan, each is unique and fascinating in its own right. However, the most popular and well-known site in Iran is undoubtedly Persepolis: the city of Persia. The Greek name for the site, Persepolis, is only part right: Persepolis was certainly built and occupied by the in the fifth century BCE, but it wasn’t a city. Rather, it was a ceremonial complex of palaces, treasuries and storerooms, and archaeologists have so far failed to find an attached ‘city’ where merchants, farmers and labourers may have lived. Indeed it seems that for most of the year, Persepolis was virtually deserted apart from a garrison and a skeleton staff of servants to maintain the buildings and their sumptuous interiors. However, at one time of the year, at No Rouz or the New Year festival, Persepolis would have been crowded with Persian and Median dignitaries, and dozens of ambassadors from the four corners of the Persian Empire. The location of the site is today evocative as it stands at the head of a broad valley beneath Mt Rahmat and is itself elevated on a huge podium 12m high. As it probably was in Persian times, the valley is a rich agricultural region that also contains the city of Shiraz located around 80km to the southwest. It is also clear that Persepolis was at the heart of the Persian Empire and the spiritual home of the Persians themselves. Around 50km to the north is ; the royal capital first constructed by the founder of the Persian Empire, Cyrus the Great, and right next door is Naqsh-e Rostam, the royal burial place of such Persian luminaries as Darius and Xerxes the Great. Literally dripping with symbolism, Persepolis was used by the Persians to awe their guests and to reinforce the central tenants of the Persian Empire which was the world’s first multinational empire. Remarkably well-preserved reliefs at the site show two things: one that the Persian Empire was a coalition between the Persians and the Medes as they are often shown hand-in- hand, and two, that at No Rouz ambassadors came from all parts of the empire bearing tributes of their local produce: Armenians bring cloth, Greeks bear bales of wool, Egyptians bring a bull and Indians hold bags of spice (or possibly gold dust). The multinational character of the Persian Empire is even emphasised in the site’s architecture from the Assyrian inspired Gate of All Nations through which one entered the complex to the graceful Grecian fluting on the columns. In all, Persepolis was an imperial statement and every corner screams what the Persian, Babylonian and Elamite inscription above the Gate of All Nations tells us: “I am Xerxes… King of Kings, King of lands, King of many races…”. No one visiting Persepolis at No Rouz could have failed to have this impression hammered home: in their day, they were in the presence of the most powerful man on earth. Tour Highlights

 The remarkable museums and Qajar palaces of Tehran  The beautiful Armenian church of St Stephanos, near Tabriz, set within spectacular mountain scenery  The imposing Mausoleum of Uljeitu and the palaces, fire temples, and 'bottomless' lake of Sassanian Takht-e Soleiman  The gardens of Shiraz, where Persia's poets are celebrated  The ruined and vast walled city of with its stunning rock reliefs  The great Achaemenid sites of Persepolis and Pasargadae  The desert city of Yazd, with its evocative Zoroastrian Towers of Silence  The UNESCO World Heritage city of Isfahan, centre of the 'renaissance' Safavid period Above: the Royal tombs carved out of the rock face at Naqsh-e Rostam

Above: fresco of Shah Abbas II entertaining Nader Mohammed Khan, King of Turkistan, in , Isfahan

Above: the Sheikh Lotfallah Mosque is one of the many beautiful buildings found around Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan

Detailed itinerary

Included meals are shown with the symbols B, L and D.

Tuesday 25 April Arrival Arrive into Tehran where you will be met and transferred to our hotel. In the afternoon visit the fabulous State’s Jewels Museum which showcases some of the magnificent jewellery belonging to the last kings of Iran. Overnight Tehran (D)

Wednesday 26 April Tehran museums Today is devoted to visiting some of Tehran’s Museums, demonstrating the rich cultural heritage of the country. The visits include the archaeological section of Iran’s National Museum, the Abguineh Museum, featuring a valuable collection of pre-Islamic and Islamic glass and ceramics, beautifully displayed and located in an elegant early 20th- century mansion, and the Reza Abbasi Museum. Overnight Tehran (B, L, D) Above: architect Hossein Amanat combined elements of Sassanid and in his design for what is now known as Azadi or Freedom Thursday 27 April Tower in Tehran Below: the intricately carved Marble Throne on display in the Golestan Palace Complex; and the Carpet Museum in Tehran exhibits a variety of Persian This morning we visit the Golestan Palace and Museum carpets from all over Iran, dating from the 18th century to the present day Complex, the former residence of the 19th and early 20th century Qajar Kings of Iran, incorporating several museums including the Marble Throne Room. After a break for lunch we visit the Carpet Museum to see the extensive collection of old and new Persian carpets and rugs sourced from all over Iran. Overnight Tehran (B, L, D)

Friday 28 April The Caspian Sea Departing Tehran we travel north through the Elburz Mountains and then along the shores of the Caspian Sea via the port of Anzali. We stop for lunch before continuing to Astara and our hotel on the lake. Overnight Astara (B, L, D)

saturday 29 april Ardebil to tabriz We visit the magnificent Mausoleum of Sheikh Saffi-eddin Ardebili, a widely revered Sufi Philosopher of the 14th century, who made Ardebil his home. He was the forefather of the well-known Safavid Kings of Iran and his mausoleum has been the of thousands of pilgrims throughout the centuries. After lunch we continue to Tabriz. Overnight Tabriz (B, L, D)

sunday 30 april St Stephanos Today we visit the Armenian church of St Stephanos, set amongst spectacular mountain scenery in the Aros River Valley. The church features typical Armenian architecture with a bell tower, cylindrical tower with a conical roof. Overnight Tabriz (B, L, D) monday 1 may exploring tabriz This morning we visit the Blue Mosque, known in the world as the Turquoise of Islam, the Azerbaijan Museum, displaying a fine collection of pre-historic and historic artefacts found in the area, and the extensive . After a break for lunch, we visit the intriguing troglodyte village of Kandovan. Here the people have carved their houses in the rocks and still live in them as in ancient times. Overnight Tabriz (B, L, D) tuesday 2 may To zanjan Depart for Zanjan and visit the magnificent Mausoleum of Uljaitu, constructed during the reign of Sultan Muhammad Khoda Bandeh. Its huge dome ranks amongst the largest in the world; the stucco-work, tile-work, and the designs decorating this monument make it unique. Overnight Zanjan (B, L, D) wednesday 3 May Takht-e-soleiman We visit the site of Takht-e-Soleiman and see the remains of the massive stone walls and remnants of the 38 watch towers, palaces, the fire temple and the temple, built by the Sassanians in the 6th century. Overnight Zanjan (B, Above: the intriguing troglodyte village of Kandovan where people have L, D) carved their houses in the landscape thursday 4 may TO shiraz Below: a detail of the Achaemenid griffin at Persepolis This morning we return to Tehran by coach before boarding our domestic flight to Shiraz. Overnight Shiraz (B, L, D) friday 5 may Firuzabad We travel to Firuzabad to visit the enormous palace of Ardashir. On the ancient road to Firuzabad we pass by two bas-reliefs, depicting Ardashir defeating the Parthian king Artabanus and receiving the crown of kingship from Ahuramazda, as well as the Qaleh-i Dokhtar, built by Ardashir as a fortress guarding the entrance to the valley. Overnight Shiraz (B, L, D) saturday 6 may persepolis Persepolis, one of the most important sites of the Ancient World, is our destination today. It is the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid kings with remains of the palaces of , Xerxes and Artaxerxes, and its famous bas- reliefs, depicting kings and courtiers and gift-bearing representatives of tributary nations of the Persian Empire. At Naghsh-e-Rostam we see the fire temple Ka’be-Zardosht and Royal Tombs and the Sassanian rock-reliefs. Overnight Shiraz (B, L, D)

sunday 7 may Exploring shiraz In the morning we visit the tomb of the poet which many Iranians treat as a site of pilgrimage, We visit the Bagh- i- and the Nasr el-Molk mosque with its unusually deep blue tiling, finely carved pillars and exquisite stained glass. Overnight Shiraz (B, L, D)

monday 8 May Bishapur Today we visit Bishapur, the Sassanian city built by Shapur 1st where we investigate the six Sassanian rock-reliefs at Tang-e-Chogan, commemorating Shapur’s victories over the Romans and other adversaries. Overnight Shiraz (B, L, D)

tuesday 9 may Pasargardae On the way to Yazd we visit Pasargadae, the site of the tomb and remains of palaces of Cyrus the Great, the founder of the Persian Empire. Driving through the typical desert town of Abarkuh we stop and and have tea before arriving into Yazd and checking into our hotel. Overnight Yazd (B, L, D)

wednesday 10 may Zoroastrian yazd The Zoroastrian religion was the main religion of Iran from at least Sassanian times. It emphasizes the manifestation of divinity in nature, and its centres of worship are nature itself or the fire temples in each city. Today in Yazd, the centre for Iran’s small remaining Zoroastrian community, we visit one of the two Zoroastrian abandoned Towers of Silence (Dakhma), and the active Zoroastrian Fire Temple. We also visit the Friday Mosque and the Dowlat Abad Garden. Overnight Yazd (B, L, D)

thursday 11 may At leisure Today is at leisure to explore Yazd independently. Overnight Yazd (B, D)

friday 12 May TO ISFAHAN Depart for Isfahan, with a stop en-route at the village of to visit the Zilou museum and ceramic shops. We continue to Na’in and visit the 10th century Friday Mosque, and the 17th century Pirnia House and Ethnographic Museum. After a break for lunch we continue to Isfahan. Overnight Isfahan (B, L, D)

Images left: the lovely Bagh-e Eram in Shiraz; the mausoleum of Saadi, known also as the tomb of Sa'dy or Sadiyeh, adds a touch of green to Shiraz; and the view from the Amir Chakhmagh Complex over the desert city of Yazd saturday 13 may EXPLORING ISFAHAN

Our full day tour of the beautiful city of Isfahan commences with a survey of the city’s three famous bridges – Shahrestan, Khajou, Sio-se-pol – each with its own design and architectural features. We visit the Armenian Quarter and the Cathedral of Vank. In the afternoon, we visit one of the world’s grandest squares, the Maidan-e-Naghsh-e- Jahan, including the Ali-Qapu Palace. We also visit two of the Islamic world’s greatest mosques – the Sheikh Lotfollah and the Shah – both with magnificent architecture and tile work. Overnight Isfahan (B, L, D) sunday 14 may ISFAHAN This morning we visit the magnificent Friday Mosque, with the famous Uljaitu Mihrab (Prayer Niche) of the Il-Khanid period. We continue to the Chehel Sotun Palace, where its wooden columns reflected in the surface of the pool give its name ‘The Palace of Forty Columns’. The afternoon is at leisure. Overnight Isfahan (B, L, D) monday 15 may AT LEISURE Above: the extraordinary blue mosaics of the Sheikh Lotfallah Mosque, Isfahan Today is at leisure in Isfahan. Overnight Isfahan (B, D) Tuesday 16 may RETURN TO TEHRAN Hotels Today we return to Tehran by road, stopping at the town of Potential participants are advised that Iran is well off the to visit a beautiful Islamic mosque and dervish mainstream tourist path. While every effort has been made complex. Next we travel to to visit the ziggurat to provide the best available accommodation and services, known as and the historical garden of Fin, which not all tourist services are at western standards. Where was first planted during the Safavid period. A museum on possible, all hotels on this tour are four or five-star – though the site displays artefacts from nearby Tepe Sialk. Before this does not necessarily imply the standards of four and departing Kashan we visit the Borujerdi House with its five-star hotels in Western countries. beautiful stucco and painted decoration. Arrive in Tehran with time to freshen up before we gather for our farewell  Tehran, Laleh Hotel (4 nights) meal. Overnight Tehran (B, L, D) www.lalehhotels.com Wednesday 17 May  Astara, Espinas Hotel (1 night) DEPARTURE www.espinashotels.com Transfers will be arranged to Tehran airport to coincide with  Tabriz, Pars Hotel (3 nights) flights for passengers who have booked their flights through www.pars-hotels.com Academy Travel. (B)  Zanjan, Grand Hotel (2 nights) www.zanjangrandhotel.com Note - Dress standards  Shiraz, Homa Hotel (5 nights) www.homahotels.com Iran’s laws regarding dress may seem confronting. However, once in Iran most people are surprised to find the locals  Yazd, Moshir Garden Hotel (3 nights) dressed in bright colours and even jeans. Women are www.hotelgardenmoshir.com required to wear a headscarf, long sleeve shirt, trousers that  Isfahan, Abbasi Hotel (4 nights) cover the ankles and a coat or shirt that come to the knee. www.abbasihotel.ir Men are required to wear long trousers and long or half sleeve shirts. Further information regarding dress will be Hotels may be subject to change (to another hotel of equivalent sent with your welcome letter. quality). Any changes will be advised to all clients booked on the tour.

Tour Inclusions Fitness Requirements

Included in the tour price of THIS tour  All accommodation in selected four and five star hotels Grade Two  All breakfasts and most lunches and dinners in hotels and local restaurants as indicated in the itinerary It is important both for you and for your fellow travellers that  Economy class flight Tehran to Shiraz you are fit enough to be able to enjoy all the activities on this  Land travel in Iran by air-conditioned coach tour. To give you an indication of the level of physical fitness  Extensive tour notes required to participate on our tours, we have given them a  Services of an Australian tour leader throughout the tour star grading. Academy Travel’s tours tend to feature  All entrance fees to sites mentioned on itinerary extended walking tours and site visits, which require greater  Qualified national guide throughout fitness than coach touring. We ask you to carefully consider  Porterage of one piece of luggage at all hotels your ability to meet the physical demands of the tour.  Tips to local guides and drivers  Visa fees Participation criteria for this tour Not included in the tour price This Grade Two tour is designed for people who lead active  International airfares, taxes and surcharges (see below) lives and can comfortably participate in up to five hours of  Travel insurance physical activity per day on most days, including longer  Expenses of a personal nature walking tours, challenging archaeological sites, climbing  Meals not specifically stated as included in this itinerary stairs, embarking and disembarking trains and/or boats, and a more demanding tour schedule with one night stops or Air travel several internal flights. The tour price quoted is for land content only. For this tour You should be able to: we recommend Emirates or Etihad which offers flights into  keep up with the group at all times and out of Tehran from most Australian cities. Please  walk for 4-5 kilometres at a moderate pace with only contact us for the best possible prices on economy, business short breaks or first class fares. Transfers between airport and hotel are  stand for a reasonable length of time in galleries and included for passengers booking their flights through museums Academy Travel. Transfers may be group or individual.  tolerate uncomfortable climatic conditions such as cold, Visas humidity and heat  walk up and down slopes Visas for visits of 30 days or under can be obtained on  negotiate steps and slopes on archaeological sites, arrival at Tehran Airport. Detailed information on the process which are often uneven and unstable and required documentation will be sent with your welcome  get on and off a large coach with steep stairs, train or letter. boat unassisted, possibly with luggage Enquiries and  move your luggage a short distance if required bookings A note for older travellers For further information and to secure a place on this tour If you are more than 80 years old, or have restricted mobility, please contact Frederick Steyn at Academy Travel on 9235 it is highly likely that you will find this itinerary challenging. 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email You will have to miss several activities and will not get the [email protected] full value of the tour. Your booking will not be accepted until after you have contacted Academy Travel to discuss your Weather on Tour situation and the exact physical requirements of this tour. While we will do our best to reasonably accommodate the April and May is a lovely time to visit Iran with the spring physical needs of all group members, we reserve the right to flowers in bloom. The mountains may still be cool and refuse bookings if we feel that the requirements of the tour covered with snow while the central areas are beginning to are too demanding for you and/or if local conditions mean heat up. Expect minimum temperatures of around 15 we cannot reasonably accommodate your condition. degrees Celsius at night rising to between 21 to 31 degrees during the day over the course of the tour. There is a slight chance of rain around the temperate Caspian coast.