CONTENTS:

INTRODUCTION TO OUR TOUR

MAP OF

DAY BY DAY SUMMARY OF YOUR TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS

QUOTATION

WHY TRAVEL WITH US

YOUR ITINERARY IN DETAIL

ACCOMMODATION INFORMATION

GENERAL INFORMATION

AITO QUALITY CHARTER

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

New Mill, our offices in the Windrush Valley on the edge of the Cotswolds

We are proud to have received a number of awards over recent years. We have been the Daily Telegraph Ultra Travel Best Small Tour Operator winner and runner-up in the last three years and, similarly, have been the winner or runner-up of the Guardian and Observer’s Best Small Tour Operator award for the past five years as well as featuring in Wanderlust magazine’s Top Tour Operators for the past nine years. The readers of Condé Nast Traveller magazine have also voted us their Favourite Specialist Tour Operator and we were included in the Sunday Times Travel Magazine’s 2011 Value for Money Awards.

These awards are widely recognised as being the most respected in the travel industry as they are professional surveys of the publications’ readerships. With over 500 tour operators for you to choose from in the UK alone, we hope you find these awards are an additional reassurance of the quality of service you can expect from Audley.

***

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

AN INTRODUCTION TO OUR IRAN TOUR

This vast and varied country of 70 million souls encompasses perhaps the broadest cultural range of any country in the Middle East, with one foot in Central Asia, one in the Persian Gulf and strong ties with Turkey, Iraq, Afghanistan and Pakistan. On the tour we aim to see the main highlights – Esfahan, and , as well as some more unusual sites such as the Zoroastrian city of and the mountain village of Abyaneh.

Accommodation is generally of a reasonable standard, with Tehran, Esfahan and Shiraz in particular providing some comfort along the way. The hotel in Yazd is more traditional, and the one in Abyaneh is perhaps the most simple, though is the best available – and the trade-off is worth it. Please note that on occasion Iranian hoteliers can have a rather cavalier attitude to hotel reservations, so it may be necessary to change the specified hotels.

You will be accompanied throughout by an experienced Iranian guide and driver.

Please note that Iran is an Islamic Republic so female members of the group must wear a head scarf and manteau (which should cover to mid-thigh and be worn over trousers). Alcohol is banned in Iran and being caught with it can land you in prison. You are not allowed to take any alcohol with you.

CLIMATE Iran is a desert country, though our trip should avoid the worst of the heat. Spring and Autumn are generally pleasant times of year to visit. Rainfall is always a possibility in the north, though most days will be dry and clear. The hottest region is usually Persepolis. During the day here expect temperatures of above 20 degrees Celsius. On the other hand Abyaneh and Tehran will both be “fresh” with temperatures of about 15-20 degrees.

MARC’S PROFILE Marc has worked at Audley for a number of years and has visited many countries but Iran has always stood out for him. The warm welcome and hospitality of the Iranian people, as well as some of the glorious architecture and scenery in Shiraz, Esfahan and Yazd made for a memorable trip. Marc will not be joining you on the tour but will be on hand up until your departure (and indeed when you get back) to discuss any aspect of the tour. Please contact Marc if you would like to book your place.

Tel: 01993 838 218 E-mail: [email protected]

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

Qashqai man, Shiraz Bazaar

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

DAY BY DAY SUMMARY OF TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS

DAY DATE ITINERARY IN BRIEF ACCOMMODATION ARRANGEMENTS

1 Saturday 20 Depart London for Tehran on your overnight On board the plane October 2012 flight.

2 Sunday 21 On arrival into Tehran you will be met by Eskan Hotel, Tehran October 2012 your guide and transferred to your central Standard hotel with time to rest after your flight. This Breakfast and lunch are included afternoon you will be taken to the carpet museum to see the very best carpets in the country. You may also like to join an optional shopping trip to pick up some clothing for the rest of the trip.

3 Monday 22 This morning you will be taken to the lovely Eskan Hotel, Tehran October 2012 , then this afternoon you Standard will be escorted round the National Jewels Breakfast and lunch are included Museum and the Glass and Ceramics Museum.

4 Tuesday 23 Travel by coach high into the hills to the Abyaneh Hotel, Abyaneh October 2012 tiny village of Abyaneh stopping off enroute Standard room at Kashan where you can see some beautiful Breakfast and dinner are included traditional houses.

In the afternoon stroll around the village and enjoy the fresh air and views

5 Wednesday 24 Travel via Nain where it's possible to see Fahadan Hotel, Yazd October 2012 some carpet weaving before arriving into Standard Yazd. Breakfast is included

6 Thursday 25 Enjoy a full day tour of Yazd to see the Fahadan Hotel, Yazd October 2012 desert architecture and Zoroastrian sights, Standard with the option this evening to visit a Breakfast is included traditional zurkhaneh to see this ancient form of exercise.

7 Friday 26 Travel to Shiraz. A long journey through Pars Hotel, Shiraz October 2012 desert scenery you'll stop off along the way Standard room at and the austere Tomb of Breakfast and lunch are included Cyrus.

8 Saturday 27 Enjoy a full day’s excursion to Darius the Pars Hotel, Shiraz October 2012 Greats capital at Persepolis, with time also Standard room to visit the Achaemenid tombs at Naqsh-e Breakfast and lunch are included Rostam.

9 Sunday 28 Today you will take in a full day tour of Pars Hotel, Shiraz October 2012 Shiraz, visiting the stunning mosques, the Standard room Tomb of and the bazaar, amongst Breakfast and lunch are included others.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

DAY DATE ITINERARY IN BRIEF ACCOMMODATION ARRANGEMENTS

10 Monday 29 Travel to Iran's masterpiece, Esfahan. Spend The Abbasi Hotel, Esfahan October 2012 the rest of the afternoon exploring one of Standard room the finest cities in the Islamic World and Breakfast and lunch are included make your first visit to Imam Square to take in the beauty of the second largest square in the world.

11 Tuesday 30 Enjoy a walking tour of Imam Square, The Abbasi Hotel, Esfahan November 2012 visiting the Imam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Standard room Mosque and Ali Qapu Palace. This afternoon Breakfast and lunch are included you will be taken to the delightful Chehel Sotun Palace, then this evening enjoy a sunset walk along the Zayandeh river to admire the beautiful bridges.

12 Wednesday 31 Today you will be taken to the Armenian The Abbasi Hotel, Esfahan November 2012 Quarter to explore the Christian heritage of Standard room the city, then in the afternoon you will be Breakfast and lunch are included taken to the Jame Mosque, located next to the busy bazaar.

In the evening enjoy a meal with Azar and Masoud, a local Iranian family.

13 Thursday 01 Today you have a full day at leisure, with The Abbasi Hotel, Esfahan November 2012 time to return to some of the sights you Standard room have already seen, or alternatively spend Breakfast and lunch are included some time shopping!

14 Friday 02 You return to Tehran today, via the city of Eskan Hotel, Tehran November 2012 Qom, cradle of the 1979 revolution. Standard Breakfast and lunch are included

15 Saturday 03 This morning you will be driven back to the Breakfast is included but may be just November 2012 airport for your return flight to the UK. coffee and cake/pastries due to Arrive into Heathrow where the tour ends. departure time.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

Imam Mosque

QUOTATION

Passage Through Persia

Arrangements as specified per person £3,495

Flight Upgrades Business Class London to Tehran per person £840 Business Class Tehran to London per person £770 Upgrades are subject to availability. Prices may vary if requested close to departure date

Other Supplements Single Supplement, per person £950 Land Only Reduction, per person -£500 Upgrade to Garden View Room for four nights at the Abbasi, Esfahan, twin share per person £310 Upgrade to Garden View Room for four nights at the Abbasi, Esfahan, single basis £620

Per person deposit required to confirm these arrangements £600

TOUR HEALTH & FITNESS REQUIREMENTS To ensure that all participants get the most out of the tour, it is important that you are fully aware of the level of activity and fitness and medical health required to successfully complete this itinerary. Please read this dossier carefully prior to confirming your place on the tour, and having established the facts, it is your responsibility to contact us with any concerns regarding individual levels of fitness, health or ability. Please be aware that our tour leaders have the right to exclude customers from the tour if they feel they are not sufficiently fit, healthy or able to complete the tour without affecting its safety, comfort or smooth progress. If you would like to discuss any of these issues further please call Marc on 01993 838 218 to discuss in more detail.

ACTIVITY LEVEL – LOW/MEDIUM A reasonable level of fitness is required for this trip. You should be aware and prepared for all or any of the following on this trip:

• Drives of up to 6 hours per day (with breaks). • To carry your own luggage through airports and from the vehicles to hotels and vice versa. • To join all walking tours of cities, monuments and historic sites. (All of these are optional).

TIPPING POLICY Tips to guides, drivers and porters are not included in the price of the trip. NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE • Travel insurance • Items of a personal nature such as laundry, drinks, • Entrance fees and other costs when on 'free time’. etc. • Future Fuel Surcharges. • Tips for your guide and driver (discretionary). • Any camera or video fees at any sites.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

TRAVEL INSURANCE We believe that safety and enjoyment are equally important when travelling. It is therefore strongly recommended that you have adequate travel insurance in place before you travel; cover should include emergency medical expenses, personal accident and repatriation. In addition, we strongly recommend that you include baggage, personal liability and cancellation cover.

Audley has partnered with Endsleigh Insurance Services Limited to offer you a range of excellent policies. This is a change to the information provided in the Important Information leaflet which accompanies the printed copy of your itinerary or can be found within your online itinerary.

The Endsleigh policy includes: • Emergency medical expenses • Personal accident • Repatriation • Baggage • Personal liability • Overseas legal expenses • Cancellation or curtailment charges

This policy will also cover over 80 sports and activities standard and you can add cover for more adventurous activities such as white water rafting up to grade 4, trekking up to 6,000m and scuba diving up to 40m to name a few.

This is only a summary of the cover provided. The policy document can be read in full on Endsleigh’s website, which can be accessed by following the link at the bottom of the page.

It is advisable to take out your travel insurance at the time of booking your trip as cover will commence for pre- departure cancellation from the policy issue date. This will, therefore, provide cover should you have to cancel your trip for an insured reason such as illness or serious accident preventing you from travelling.

To receive a quote and to book your travel insurance online please follow this link www.endsleigh.co.uk/AudleyTravel or alternatively call Endsleigh on 0800 328 5366.

AUDLEY PRICE POLICY We will always review our price if another tour operator quotes what appears to be a lower price. In our experience when we examine alternative quotations we invariably find differences in the arrangements (some subtle and some more fundamental). If you forward a copy of the other proposal to us (with the name of the tour operator omitted if you prefer) we will compare the arrangements and forward a detailed reply to you. We are aware that some people like to research their travel arrangements on the internet. We closely monitor prices on the web to ensure that we are competitive.

HOW TO BOOK If you are happy with the arrangements outlined within this itinerary and would like to book, please forward your completed booking form and the deposit specified above. The deposit is £600 per person and can be paid by cheque, bank transfer or credit / debit card.

PAYMENT BY CREDIT CARD Please note, we do not charge a credit card fee on deposits, however, a credit card fee is charged on the balance of the price of your current trip or if full payment is made. Credit card fees are detailed within the enclosed information booklet. Please note we charge a credit card fee due to the high fees charged to tour operators by the credit card companies. We have chosen to make this transparent rather than including it within the trip price. You may therefore wish to pay the balance by bank transfer, debit card or personal cheque.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

WHY TRAVEL WITH US?

REPUTATION & QUALITY A SMOOTH JOURNEY Well over 80% of our clients have travelled with us in We have procedures in place for dealing quickly and the past or have had Audley recommended to them. efficiently with mishaps from minor flight time When you book with us you are assured of quality alterations to more fundamental changes. If problems arrangements if only for the fact that we simply cannot do occur we will rapidly rearrange your itinerary to afford to risk our excellent reputation. Our service has make best use of your time given the changed been recognised by the readers of well-known circumstances, not simply cancel part of your trip or publications including the Guardian & Observer, the leave you sitting in an airport waiting for hours for a Daily Telegraph and Wanderlust magazine, where we rescheduled flight. Importantly, in these situations we have consistently featured in their ‘best tour operator’ will do everything possible to minimise any extra costs awards for a number of years. involved – in the vast majority of cases no extra charges will be made. If a problem does occur while you are travelling you can contact us on our 24 hour PERSONAL SERVICE number. We will do everything in our power to rectify We are committed to offering you a very personal the problem immediately rather than allow it to spoil service, with all your arrangements being handled by your trip. one country specialist. They will remain your one point of contact and will take responsibility for the smooth operation of your trip. They are supported by a team of DETAILED TRAVEL DOCUMENTS specialists for that region and a professional Approximately two to three weeks before you travel we administration and management team. will send you all your travel documents presented in a convenient travel organiser. As well as your full From the moment you contact us, we are here to itinerary and air tickets, there will also be additional answer your questions accurately and honestly, be information such as recommended restaurants and they about specific arrangements or any more general practical tips. A few days before you travel your queries you may have. We are experienced travellers specialist will call you to have a final talk through your with a thorough and in-depth knowledge of our itinerary and answer any last minute questions you specialist destinations, and the benefit of this may have. experience is yours throughout. When we do not know the answer to a question we will endeavour to find out and get back to you as soon as possible. RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL We have a firm commitment to minimising QUALITY SERVICE WHEN YOU ARE TRAVELLING the environmental and social impact of travel, and strive to ensure that a visit We take a good deal of care when choosing our travel from an Audley client has a positive effect partners overseas, taking into account their quality of on the destination. We have a service, guides and vehicles. We have built up many firm commitment to the principles of ‘responsible long-standing relationships, ensuring that they deliver travel’ and have been awarded AITO 5 star status (the the level of service demanded by Audley clients. Our highest achievable) for our policies and practises. We local guides and drivers, where appropriate, are the continue to work with AITO, and a number of other people you will meet. In many cases we know them bodies, to improve our policies. For more details personally, in all cases we ensure that they are of the please refer to our website (www.audleytravel.com/rt) highest calibre. They are there to do much more than where you will find details of our responsible travel show you specific sights and provide factual policy and also our Travellers’ Code. If you are information. They will be able to tell you about local particularly interested in these issues and wish to life, culture, cuisines and customs; and, where incorporate them into your itinerary, please do not applicable, act as translator. In certain parts of the hesitate to contact your country specialist: world a specialist guide is more appropriate, for [email protected] example, a wildlife expert.

LEGAL LIABILITY We are a UK company and hence must fully comply with English law. When booking with us you can rest assured that your arrangements are carefully planned as we have a reputation to maintain and are legally liable for any omissions or negligent acts. You may not find you have this level of reassurance if you make your own travel arrangements independently.

First class guides

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

CHARITY SUPPORT

Audley has been supporting carbon reduction projects through Friends of Conservation since 2005 and in addition to this each individual department also supports a charity of their choice with a yearly financial donation. This charity is one that is close to their hearts and the team often chooses to fundraise to add to this amount. Please ask your specialist if you would like to find out more as in most instances they will have visited the charity themselves, or one of their colleagues will have.

THE CHRISTINA NOBLE CHILDREN’S FOUNDATION AND AUDLEY’S CONTRIBUTION The Christina Noble Children's Foundation (CNCF) is dedicated to helping children in need with education, medical care, social opportunities and job placement. Located in the country’s capital, the foundation conducts outreach work in and around Ulaan Bataar offering housing for poor and single parent families as well as medical care, shelter and schooling for street children. In 1997 the foundation established a permanent centre here with the aim of creating a stable home for as many orphaned children as possible. Today the charity’s ‘Sunshine Ger Village’, boasts a number of residential gers (the traditional felt tent of the Mongolian people) and other facilities which serve as a stable home for 60 children and young adults ranging in age from 2 to 24 years old. Each residential ger is staffed by an adopted ger mother, often a single parent herself, who creates a loving home for all of the children within her care. At school age the children are enrolled alongside their peers at the local district school: learning within the community and gaining vital qualifications for later adult life. Children below school age attend the Foundation’s kindergarten, constructed in 2002 on land adjacent to the ger village. The kindergarten also serves the wider community and provides invaluable pre-school education to children of local families.

Children from the ger sunshine village going to school

OUR CONTRIBUTION As part of their outreach work in the capital CNCF administer the ‘Give a Ger’ fund, an emergency fund established to provide families in danger of becoming homeless with a secure and comfortable place to live. This has proved an essential lifeline for many in a country which is renowned for it’s particularly harsh winters where temperatures drop as low as -40°C, conditions which often drive whole families beneath the city’s streets as they find refuge in central heating pipes and vents. In 2008 our department made a £500 donation to the charity which bought a ger for a nomadic family who had been living in what can only be described as a primitive hut in the heart of the city’s slum district.

In 2009 we decided to strengthen our support for the charity by committing our annual donation to sponsor a child through the remainder of his secondary education. Our fundraising efforts on behalf of the foundation continued with a staff barbeque funding fuel and winter provisions for the family.

It is exciting to be able to see how our money will be put into positive action. We are looking forward to inviting clients who travel with Audley to visit the gers and in particular the Sunshine Ger Village and meet those children helped by CNCF.

If you would like further information please speak to your specialist or visit www.cncf.org

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

Sheikh Lotfallah Mosque, Esfahan

YOUR ITINERARY IN DETAIL

Saturday, 20 LONDON HEATHROW TO TEHRAN (IKA) October 2012 British Midland flight - Flight No: BD 931 - Dep: 1635 - Arr: 0240 - (next day) - Duration: 07hr 35min; Class: Economy Class; This flight will touch down in Yerevan for refuelling.

Sunday, 21 IRAN INTRODUCTION October 2012 Prepare to be surprised. This huge country, about 3 times the size of France and with a population of 70 million, contains a bewildering array of world-class sights, evidence of a tumultuous 5000 year history that has left an indelible mark on both East and West. Kipling said the "twain" would never meet, though he perhaps hadn't visited Iran. Only here, after all, can you find women dressed in the latest European fashions donning headscarves or chadors as they leave the house.

Iran has an unfortunate image in the West. Where we ought to see a complex and diverse nation born of Empire and conquest, we more usually see a one-dimensional, sclerotic theocracy in a perpetual state of defiance. This is terribly sad for Iranians, many of whom hold no candle for their rulers and who treasure the chance to live up to their collective reputation as welcoming, civilized hosts. Indeed it is a hallmark of any visit to Iran to be treated in the manner of an honoured guest and there are few visitors to the country that do not experience this.

As luck would have it many of Iran's most memorable attractions are not only integral to daily life but also cheap, or even free, allowing you to experience the country as its people do. Sitting in a teahouse overlooking Esfahan's Imam Square you are likely to be joined not just by the obligatory fellow travellers - who, after all, live for such things - but also by locals and Iranians from right across the country, for whom Esfahan is the jewel of Persian civilisation. As the sun sets and the conversation warms up it is easy to forget that such a pure travelling experience as this has come at the price of a cup of tea. It is similarly possible to while away hours at a time talking to bazaaris in Shiraz or Tehran, or walking the backstreets of the desert city of Yazd. They are attractions in their own right, quite apart from any World Heritage Sites nearby.

There is, of course, a parallel Iran to the one that most visitors see. Away from the truly heart-stopping sights - the city of Esfahan, the capital of the Achaemenid Empire at Persepolis, the Shiraz Bazaar - there are vast areas where few, if any, visitors go. In the northwest the city of Tabriz has been famous for the manufacture of carpets for a thousand years. As every Iranian will tell you - and as many connoisseurs will confirm - the best carpets in the world come from here. To the south and west can be found some of Iran's most marvellous mountain scenery, populated largely by Kurds. In the far south are the ancient remains of the Elamite civilisation at Choqa Zanbil. In the centre are the absurdly picturesque villages of the Zagros Mountains, giving way to the deserts of Eastern Iran and the cities of Kerman, en route to Baluchistan, and Mashhad, home to the of Imam Reza, a direct descendant of the Prophet Mohammed.

Tehran Introduction Iran's capital is widely known for mostly negative things - mass protests, heavy traffic, pollution and ugliness. Don't be fooled - there's plenty to see and do here, from looking around the country's best museums all the way to having your photo taken outside the Den of Espionage, or the former US Embassy to you and me.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

The Mongol invasion was the making of Tehran. Beforehand it was merely a village but due to the mass pillage and murder happening further east its population swelled with refugees. Thus the trading fulcrum that Tehran has been ever since was born. The Safavids got to work expanding the city and capitalising on its location, before the demented Qajar-era Shah - Aga Mohammed Khan - made it his capital, a status it has retained ever since.

Most visits to Tehran take in at least a handful of the many museums. The pick of them is probably the Carpet Museum, though the National Museum of Iran and the National Jewels Museum are fantastic to stroll through. Tehran Bazaar can hold your attention all day, though don't overlook some of the smaller bazaars tucked away here and there. Of course there's also the Golestan Palace, a Qajar-era structure full of remarkable art and decor, as well as the Sa'd Abad Complex, the summer residence of the last Shah.

Tehran

SHARED TRANSFER TO YOUR HOTEL FROM THE AIRPORT shared transfer with your tour group and guide

CLOTHES SHOPPING EXCURSION WITH YOUR GUIDE escorted optional excursion with your guide. With the compulsory Islamic dress code requirement, getting dressed in Iran can be quite a challenge, so you may like to spend some time with your guide in a Tehrani clothing district to help you pick out some suitable outfits (and wonderful souvenirs of your trip!). You will find a marvellous array of clothing to choose from, and will be able to ask your guide's advice as to the best options to suit the demands of your trip. To give you an idea of prices, cheaper outfits should come to around £10, rising to £60 for a more dressy piece. There is no obligation to buy; this is absolutely not a sales trip, but rather a chance for you to pick up some essential clothing items to help you feel moe at ease during your stay.

VISIT THE CARPET MUSEUM excursion with your guide. The carpet museum is one of Tehran's real highlights for anyone with even a passing interest in one of ancient Persia's most celebrated arts. There are some stunning pieces on display, some dating back to Safavid times, along with some more recent examples (even some created with Western influences), and if you are thinking of buying a carpet during your trip this may be a good place to get some ideas and to learn about the distinctions between carpets woven in different regions of the country.

Eskan Hotel, Tehran Breakfast and lunch are included

Monday, 22 VISIT GOLESTAN PALACE October 2012 escorted excursion with your guide. Golestan Palace is a lovely Qajar-era palace complex set around an attractive pool and garden. It is possible to visit a number of the buildings to see the extravagance of the times - your guide will point out the Ivan-e Takht-e Marmar with its stunning marble throne and the Negar Khan art gallery, where you can see portraits of the Shahs themselves. Visit also the Shams-Al Emarat, which was the tallest palace at the time, constructed to afford the Shahs views over the city, as well as the Historic Photograph Gallery which has some fascinating pictures of life at the time.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

VISIT THE NATIONAL JEWELS MUSEUM escorted excursion with your guide. Iran's National Jewels museum houses an extravagant collection of jewels dating back to Safavid times, with an assortment of treasures on display. Look out for the outrageous Globe of Jewels, constructed to "use up" some left over jewels, and the massive Darya-ye- Nur diamond - its sister the Kuh-e-Nur now sits in the Tower of London. Note that there is a high level of security here as befits such a priceless collection, and opening times are severely restricted.

VISIT THE GLASS AND CERAMICS MUSEUM escorted excursion with your guide. The Glass and Ceramics museum is well worth a visit, housing an extensive selection of exhibits in a attractive building. The galleries themselves are well organised, and there are some fascinating exhibits - look out for the glass tear-collectors, in which each of the shah's many wives were supposed to collect their tears whilst he was away to show their love and devotion to him.

Eskan Hotel, Tehran Breakfast and lunch are included

Tuesday, 23 TEHRAN TO ABYANEH VIA KASHAN October 2012 Shared transfer with your tour group and guide This is a long journey, although with plenty of sights to fill your time it is a fascinating day, and well worth starting early. From Tehran your first stop is the city of Kashan, which is situated on the western edge of the Dasht-e-Kavir desert. Kashan boasts many interesting sights; of primary importance are probably the traditional houses of Khan-e-Borujerdi and Khan-e-Tabatai. The houses belonged to wealthy local families, and local legend has it that the Khan-e-Borujerdi was constructed by a lovesick man, keen to impress the father of his intended wife and the owner of neighbouring Khan-e-Tabatai. The women who lived in the houses spent most of their lives in seclusion and your guide will point out the areas of the house intended just for the inner family. The architecture is beautiful and thoughtfully constructed to be cool in summer, warm in winter. Another sight of note is the , which was designed on the orders of Shah Abbas the Great, who despite the beauty of Esfahan chose Kashan as his final resting place. It is historically important for being the place where Amir Kabir was assassinated on the orders of Shah Nadir al-Din; take a look at the ancient bath-house where it happened which has been turned into a museum to his memory. Unfortunately the bath house is closed until 2009 for restoration. Also in town is the ziggurat of Teppeh-ye siyalk, worth a look if you have time, as well as the bazaar, which is marvellously preserved and less touristy than its counterparts in Tehran and Shiraz, although best visited later in the day than your visit may allow. From Kashan the main road winds through the Zagros Mountains and out into the Dasht-e Kavir desert and you will pass the Natanz Nuclear Facility on the way. The car is required by national law not to stop here, and you should not on any account take any photos.

Abyaneh Introduction For some reason Iran isn't really known for its scenery, which is frankly baffling, as any visit to this mountain village up at 2235m will attest. Only 2 hours away from Esfahan you can be high up in a fold of the Zagros range, walking through the narrow winding streets of Abyaneh, watching locals go about their rustic daily life. During the day, particularly at harvest time, many younger inhabitants head to the fields, leaving their elderly relatives behind to flog the occasional rug or souvenir. The local dress here is a refreshing change from black and you may see ladies in brightly coloured clothing with floral headscarves. They prefer not to have their pictures taken directly, but street scenes are fine. The village is a picture of rural calm and a great base for local walks. For the best views of the village walk through the fields at the base of the valley and onto the opposite ridge.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

Abyaneh, Iran

EXPLORING ABYANEH escorted excursion with your guide. Abyaneh is a beautiful village, hidden away amongst the mountains. There are no must-see sights here; rather it is a place to wander round, meet the locals and marvel at the town that time almost forgot. You will immediately notice the ladies wearing a unique local costume - the people who live here have a difficult life, although they are incredibly friendly and welcoming and will sometimes approach you and your guide for a chat. Some of the locals sell dried fruits or handicrafts and these are a good way to support the local economy.

Abyaneh Hotel, Abyaneh Breakfast and dinner are included

Wednesday, 24 ABYANEH TO YAZD VIA NAIN October 2012 Shared transfer with your tour group and guide From Abyaneh you will be driven through the Zagros Mountains and down into the desert - the Dasht-e Kavir. Nain, a dusty desert town famous for textiles, is an interesting place to stop en route to Yazd. One of the weavers here claims to make the brown cloaks for Qom's many mullahs. Prices are cheap, so you can do worse than buy a cloak to take home with you.

After around 5-6 hours you will arrive in Yazd - hopefully just in time for a desert sunset.

Yazd Introduction The Zagros Mountains get progressively drier and hotter the further east you get, until they give way entirely to the twin deserts of the Dasht-e-Kavir and the Dasht-e-Lut. Yazd perches between these two huge expanses of sand, acting as a key stopover on the overland trade routes to Central Asia and Pakistan. The centre of the city is the old town - a maze of mud-brick alley ways, punctuated by the occasional badgir or wind tower. It is perfectly possible, and for some desirable, to get lost here. The old town has been recognised by UNESCO, and no wonder really as it's around 1800 years old and doesn't look like it's changed much since then.

Yazd is one of Iran's more conservative cities and nearly every woman you see will be dressed head to toe in a black chador. Yazd also has some very important mosques. The best of the lot is the Jame (Friday) Mosque, towering over the dusty streets below and covered head-to-toe in tiles of the brightest blue. Nearby is one of Iran's best dining options - inside a preserved Merchant's house in the bazaar. Delicacies to try here are the local Yazdi soup and the excellent baklava.

This is also an ideal place to learn more about - the world's first monotheism. This mysterious religion is still practiced by many Yazdis today. The focus of their worship in Yazd is the Fire Temple, where the fire that you can see has supposedly been burning constantly for several thousand years.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

Yazd, old town.

Fahadan Hotel, Yazd Breakfast is included

Thursday, 25 CITY TOUR OF YAZD October 2012 escorted excursion with your guide. Today you will be enjoying a city tour of Yazd with your guide. You will be visiting some of the sites listed below, although not necessarily in this order.

Yazd is a desert city, a fact immediately obvious on entering the Old Town. Everything is made of adobe, even the air-conditioning units. The focal point of the Old Town is the Friday Mosque - or Masjed Jame. It appears to be the tallest building in Yazd and is a magnificent sight. The tile work on the huge facade is as good in parts as other more famous buildings in Esfahan and Shiraz. It is also a busy mosque, usually you can see a steady stream of worshippers making their way in and out. Adjacent to here is the bazaar, not one of the country's best but nevertheless excellent for a wander.

Immediately outside the bazaar is the other key Islamic sight in Yazd, the Amir Chaqmak Complex. It dominates the city and you can climb up onto the roof for a marvellous sunset view. It is also well worth popping into the nearby Qanat museum which has some fascinating exhibits on the construction of qanats, or underground water systems, a true lifeline for inhabitants of this desert city.

Elsewhere in Yazd there are lots of lesser known sights well worth your time. If you like gardens perhaps visit the Bagh-e Doulat Abad, which has a graceful 33m high windtower, or badgir. The head Mullah of Yazd still lives here, so don't stray off the main thoroughfares.

There are also two key Zoroastrian sights in Yazd - the Towers of Silence and the Fire Temple. The latter is south of the Old Town and the fire inside, it is said, has been burning for several thousand years. The Towers of Silence, by contrast, sit on the edge of town, backed by the Zagros Mountains. They are lonely, ghostly places, primarily used for "sky burials", whereby the dead person would be slowly eaten by vultures, in the presence of a Zoroastrian priest. The towers are in a state of disrepair and it's quite a scramble to get to the top, but it is well worth it, not least for the fabulous views over the city of Yazd.

Amir Chakhmaq Complex, Yazd

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

VISIT THE ZURKHANEH escorted excursion with your guide. A visit to a traditional zurkhaneh (literally, 'house of strength') is a fascinating way to catch a glimpse of an ancient Iranian tradition still very much alive today. You will be taken to the gymnasium to watch men perform ritual exercise to musical accompaniment, a show lasting around an hour in total. The exercise equipment used has its roots on the battlefield - watch out for the heavy clubs that the men twirl round as though light as a feather - but nowadays it forms part of a comprehensive workout for men who follow the guidance of a leader as they jump and stretch. The whole experience is not a slick performance; instead it's a working part of Iranian life with local participants (and you may be astounded at their levels of fitness!). Please note, that the performance takes a while to build up, so it is worth being patient and enjoying the music until the more energetic action gets going. Tea is served.

Fahadan Hotel, Yazd Breakfast is included

Friday, 26 YAZD TO SHIRAZ VIA PASARGADAE October 2012 Shared transfer with your tour group and guide This long trip, commonly around 6 hours with the stop at Pasargadae, takes you right through the central part of the Zagros Mountains. The scenery is stark, similar in many ways to the Arabian Peninsula and a sign that you're headed towards Shiraz, in the Gulf. Along the way you can break the journey in Abarqu to see a Zoroastrian fire altar and ice storage tower, as well as a 4000 year old cypress tree popular with local tourists; however the primary area of interest for most visitors is Pasargadae, a forerunner of Persepolis, built by Cyrus the Great. The city is in complete ruins, but there are one or two impressive structures, and the tomb of Cyrus the Great, as well as some Ozymandias-like carvings proclaiming the glory and longevity of the Achaemenid Empire.

Shiraz Introduction There's no wine here. If there were this would be the most convivial city in the Middle East. The locals are friendly, liberal and literate; the climate is pleasant all year round; and the nearby attractions of Persepolis and Naqsh-e-Rostam are the equal of anything in Athens or Rome. Who wouldn't want to be a Shirazi?

The first impression most visitors have of Shiraz is of a thriving commercial centre with a decidedly liberal and relaxed feel. This might have something to do with the location - in a fold of mountains 500 miles from Tehran - and the city's commercial clout, centred on the bazaar. The latter is one of the key attractions of the city, indeed the entire country, and is worth at least an afternoon of your time. Also here are the tombs of two world-famous Persian poets, Sa'adi and the immortal Hafez. If you visit their tombs in the early evening you're pretty much guaranteed to meet some locals.

The main reason most people come to Shiraz, however, is to see the ruins of the Achaemenid capital, Persepolis and nearby Naqsh-e-Rostam. These are amongst the foremost Ancient sites in the world, on a par with the Forum in Rome and the Parthenon in Athens.

Persepolis, Iran

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

VISIT THE DARVAZEH-YE QURAN GATE escorted excursion with your guide. This evening you will be driven to the Gateway of the Holy Quran, which was originally built in the 9th century. Although the gate itself is now of limited historical interest (it was reconstructed a few years back) there are some impressive views over the city of Shiraz from the hillside walkway nearby, and you can also make out a Zoroastrian fire altar on the opposing hills, which was historically used as a marker for pilgrims to the area. There is a pleasant teahouse which serves delightful tea and cakes and is a nice place to while away a few hours and perhaps meet some locals.

Pars Hotel, Shiraz Breakfast and lunch are included

Saturday, 27 EXCURSION TO PERSEPOLIS, NAQSH E ROSTAM AND NAQSH E RAJAB October 2012 escorted excursion with your guide. About 50km northeast of Shiraz, at the foot of Mt Rahmat and on the Marvdash plain, is Persepolis, one of the most extraordinary sights in the Middle East. This was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire at its zenith. The power invested in the capital was enormous - stretching from the Aegean to the Indus, with many states that bordered the Empire paying regular tribute. Though the glory days of the city were almost 2500 years ago, some of the statuary and relief carvings could have been done last week, given the amazing degree of their preservation.

Your guide will explain the history of the site in detail. The best part of the site, and the part that understandably garners the most attention, is the Apadana staircase. The carvings on the side of the staircase are superb, as good as anything you'll see in Rome, Athens or Egypt. If you look very closely and ignore the historical explanations nearby you can have a go at guessing where everyone is from. For example The Bactrians, Arabs, Scythians and Ethiopians are all deducible from the gifts that they present.

Touring at Persepolis is thirsty work. Most of the site is open-air and Shiraz is effectively a Persian Gulf city, so can be very hot in the summer months. Bring a sunhat, sun cream and light clothes. Also, of course, bring your camera. Water is readily available and your guide should also have some to hand if you need any.

Naqsh-e Rostam is actually a collection of enormous Royal tombs, somehow carved out of a cliff face, about 5km from Persepolis. The tombs are thought to be of the main kings of the Achaemenid line - Darius I and II, Xerxes I and Artaxerxes I.

Naqsh-e Rajab, by way of contrast, is a relatively humble set of carvings, also on a much smaller face of rock, depicting battle scenes from the 3rd Century.

Nasqh-e Rostam, Shiraz

Pars Hotel, Shiraz Breakfast and lunch are included

Sunday, 28 FULL DAY CITY TOUR OF SHIRAZ October 2012 escorted excursion with your guide. Shiraz has plenty of sights to keep you occupied and your tour guide will make sure that you see all the real highlights, not necessarily in this order.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

The bazaar is a lively place; a superb blend of bustling commercial hub and architectural wonder, and the vaulted ceiling of the main drag makes for great photography and people- watching (look out for the women from the local villages wearing colourful clothing). Most of the shops are for local consumption, selling spices, kitchenware, clothing and household goods. Some of the bazaaris are fascinating people. Many of them can speak some English, and a few are fluent. One bazaari who you may bump into runs one of the main souvenir stands in Shiraz. He's a veteran of the Iran-Iraq War and fought in the Kurdish provinces as a volunteer at the age of 17. His most popular souvenirs are Iranian stamps - many with strong propaganda themes.

Not far from the bazaar is the Masjed-e Vakil, or the Regent's Mosque, which is the most beautiful mosque in the city with some extraordinary Qajar-era tilework, like nothing else of its time. In Shiraz yellows and reds predominate, a marvellous counterpart to Esfahan's striking blues. The Regent's Mosque has red in abundance, so is worth extra time for that alone. Inside the main south-facing Iwan you can find the Mihrab, and next to it a staircase of solid marble - if it's dark when you get here, the caretaker should be able to turn on the lights so you can admire it in its full glory.

One of our favourite places to gather your thoughts and admire the architecture is at the Nasr-al-Molk or "pink" mosque. Hidden away down a back street, in the centre of the city, it is a showcase of 300 year old tilework in pinks, yellows and blues and a very peaceful and calming place to sit for a while. The mosque dates back some 250 years, but you can see the well house, dating from about 700 years ago. It is the tilework and the honeycombed alcoves that will steal your attention here, with colours made naturally from saffron, turqoise, lapis lazuli and rose.

No visit to Shiraz would be complete without visiting the . This is the place to catch locals with their guard down, happily chatting and consoling themselves with the memory of the city's greatest and best-loved citizen, and early evening is a particularly good time to visit. Iranians come here and place a hand on the tomb to remember their dead loved ones and say a prayer for them. This is moving to see, especially at dusk, when the atmosphere is peaceful and the sun is setting.The small bookhop sells Hafez's poems in translation.To the chagrin of most visitors Hafez lived here whilst alcohol was still a mainstay of both the economy and of the city's social scene. The great poet had this to say on the subject of the demon drink:

I am no lover of hypocrisy; Of all the treasures that the earth can boast, A brimming cup of wine I prize the most-- This is enough for me!

The Bagh-e , which is a beautiful botanical garden now owned and maintained by , is a delightful place to spend some time. The palace overlooking the gardens is currently closed to visitors but you will be able to wander around in the garden at leisure.

The Bagh-e Naranjestan is a pleasant garden filled with orange trees, with an attractive pavilion which you can go inside. Some of the paintings and decorations are in a slight state of disrepair, but it is still possible to admire the detail on the designs. Watch out for the steep drops if you go upstairs - the safely barriers you might expect are sadly lacking. Below the building is a small museum, with artefacts unfortunately removed from the ground by amateur archaeologists; the lack of information about the origin of the pieces rending them historically worthless.

The Madraseh-ye Khan theological school is where would-be mullahs lived and studied. The school has some attractive architecture and is a good place to meet some modern day mullahs. It is possible to get onto the roof for excellent views over the city, but again this is not for the faint hearted as there are some steep drops down.

The Arg-e Karim Khani is immediately obvious on entering the city, and served as a prison until recent times. Less interesting architecturally than some of the other sights, the citadel is most noteworthy for its collection of old photos depicting life in Shiraz. It is possible to make out some of the streets and sights of Shiraz from the pictures, and it's fascinating to see this Iranian city in days gone by. More interesting still are the pictures of local women dressed in Western style clothes, some of them looking more comfortable in the new costumes than others!

Although dwarfed in importance by the Tomb of Hafez, the Tomb of Sa'di is also a pleasant place to spend some time, and you are likely to meet with some locals reciting some of Sa'di's verses if you do make your way here.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

One of Sa'di's disciples is buried in the adjacent tomb.

Finally, the Mausoleum of Shah-e-Cheragh is a fascinating and awe-inspiring mosque, but unfortunately at the time of writing it was not accessible to non-Muslims or to foreigners. However, even from outside the views are quite stunning, and it is interesting to watch locals visiting the mosque - you will see plenty of women having to borrow chadors from the guard outside as their own clothes don't quite meet the strict Islamic dress code required.

Bazzar in Shiraz, Iran

Pars Hotel, Shiraz Breakfast and lunch are included

Monday, 29 SHIRAZ TO ESFAHAN BY CAR VIA October 2012 Shared transfer with your tour group and guide This drive usually takes around 6 hours or so, depending on traffic conditions, but there are a couple of interesting sights along the way to break up your journey, and the scenery is quite varied throughout the route. About two hours in, you will see the truly stunning Zagros Mountains before you whilst twisting your way through high passes - they may or may not be snow covered depending on the time of year you are travelling. This gives way to a desert landscape, framed with mountains on both sides.

You may stop on the way to see a Safavid-era citadel at Izadkhast. This was still used until Qajar times and it is well worth breaking the journey here to take a look. You will also see a deserted caravanserai which was regularly used by travellers on the old route from Esfahan to Shiraz.

If it's still light before you arrive into Esfahan, you may stop by the roadside to see wells dug for the facilitation of qanats (underground water systems). If you have been to the Qanat Museum in Yazd you will have seen pictures of this area, with its deep wells around 50 metres apart. Please take your guide's advice on where to go while exploring this area as the wells are not covered or signposted.

Esfahan Introduction Esfahan is Iran's stab at perfection. The master builders who undertook its construction around 400 years ago were the finest that Shah Abbas could lay his hands on, and the city they built is nothing short of a marvel. Indeed the key structures are so beautiful and so renowned, that Esfahan's role in history remains largely forgotten, eclipsed by the magnificence of its architecture.

There are at least a dozen sights of dazzling quality, including three of the finest religious buildings in the world - the Jame, Imam and Sheikh Lotfollah Mosques. Further afield is the Armenian Quarter with its showpiece Vank Cathedral. A short walk away from there are the bridges of the Zayandeh River, where young Iranians come to chat and flirt over a cup of tea. If you find you're running out of things to see (highly unlikely) be sure to take some time to relax in a teahouse or take a leisurely walk through Imam Square. It is an unmitigated pleasure to do so and you will undoubtedly bump into Iranian families who are in Esfahan essentially for the same reason as you.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

Bridges at Esfahan

EVENING TOUR OF IMAM SQUARE escorted excursion with your guide. Imam Square is Esfahan's masterpiece, constructed on the orders of Shah Abbas the Great and the second largest square in the world (after Tiannenmen). Unesco has good reason to add it to its World Heritage list. It's truly magnificent, and if you arrive into Esfahan in the evening it's well worth heading straight here in order to soak up the atmosphere and take in the sights that you will be exploring in detail tomorrow. Depending on the day, you may see people streaming into Imam Mosque or perhaps just strolling round the fountains eating ice cream. The shops in the bazaar are open late, so this is a good time to browse, or you may prefer to sit in one of the many teashops to take in the fabulous view.

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Esfahan

The Abbasi Hotel, Esfahan Breakfast and lunch are included

Tuesday, 30 WALKING TOUR OF IMAM SQUARE November 2012 escorted excursion with your guide. This is Esfahan's (indeed Iran's) most incredible sight. The square's dimensions make it the world's second largest public square. Unlike Tiananmen Square in Beijing, however, Imam Square's main buildings date from the early 17th Century, lending it an added distinction.

The south side of the square is dominated by the enormous Imam Mosque, a marvellous and memorable sight. The sheer bulk of the structure is incredible and as you draw near the tile work becomes increasingly intricate. It is, of course, from the time of Shah Abbas - who else? - and is almost 400 years old. Your guide will explain the features of the mosque in detail.

The buildings that form the boundary of the square are used as shops by local bazaaris, and they form the outer arcade of the bazaar itself, which extends right around the square, before veering north towards the Jame Mosque. The bazaar is excellent for souvenir shopping, though pricey.

On the east side of the square is the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, another feather in Esfahan's busy cap. The structure is much smaller than the Imam Mosque, though the portal is, if anything, even more beautiful than that of its near neighbour.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

The interior is richly decorated and is given an added glow and sparkle by the shafts of light coming from the base of the domed roof. The dome itself is the greatest part of the mosque, watch it gradually change colour as the sun goes down.

On the opposite side of the square is the Ali Qapu Palace, formerly the main entrance to the square, though now used as a kind of viewpoint by tourists and locals. Some of the decorations in here are exquisite, although most were destroyed at the time of the 1979 revolution.

At the northern edge of the square, just to the left of the entrance to the bazaar, there is a wonderful teahouse, the Qeysarieh Teahouse. It has the best view of the square and sitting here for a little while is a delight. You can order tea, cake and a qalyan (a water-pipe) here for next to nothing.

Ali Qapu Palace, Esfahan

VISIT CHEHEL SOTUN PALACE escorted excursion with your guide. Chehel Sotun is a beautiful palace originally built during Safavid times (as with most of Esfahan's masterpieces), although it was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1706. The puzzle wood ceiling is well preserved and you will see the 20 wooden columns supporting it, reflected in the pool, to make 40 columns, hence the name of 40 Columns Palace. Inside are a collection of delightful frescoes depicting historical and frivolous scenes from Persia's colourful past which fortunately were saved from destruction during the 1979 revolution. Your guide will be able to explain the historical scenes being depicted. Look out for Shah Abbas himself depicted in the paintings.

SUNSET WALK ALONG THE ZAYANDEH RIVER escorted excursion with your guide. Iran is a tremendous place for people-watching, and there are few better places for it than the Zayandeh River. The medieval bridges here are well preserved and look absolutely charming lit up at night. You will see lots of young couples walking, flirting, chatting and watching, plus families out for an evening stroll. Your driver will drop you off at the Si-o Seh Bridge, the largest of the bridges, where you can stop for a cup of tea overlooking the river. If you walk across there is a thin strip of parkland along which you can walk to the next bridge, the Chubi - perhaps the most beautiful - followed later by the Khaju Bridge. Take your time, there's no hurry.

When you're ready to go, your driver will be waiting for you across the Khaju bridge on the northern side of the river.

The Abbasi Hotel, Esfahan Breakfast and lunch are included

Wednesday, 31 VANK CATHEDRAL AND THE ARMENIAN QUARTER November 2012 escorted excursion with your guide. Not far from the Zayandeh River is Esfahan's Armenian Quarter, New Jolfa. This is a great place to learn about Armenian culture and the Armenian integration into Iranian life. There is a museum showcasing armenian artefacts, including some very old and precious manuscripts and an explanation of the Armenian Genocide in 1915, which is graphic.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

Shah Abbas created the Armenian Quarter by the simple act of importing lots of Armenians from the northern town of Jolfa (on the present day border between Iran and Azerbaijan). He needed the best artisans to construct his showpiece city, and the greatest at that time were from Armenia. The devout Armenians got the right to their own quarter of the city, though back then it would have been quite a distance from the centre. Laws were put into place to protect them and they continue to speak Armenian at home today. The focal point is Vank Cathedral. The biblical murals inside cover every inch of wall space and leave the visitor in no doubt as to the devotion of the worshippers. Look out for the scenes of the torture of St Gregory - granted not very pleasant, but key to the foundation of the Armenian Apostolic Church.

Another very fine building in the Quarter is the Church of Bethlehem, usually much quieter and here, unlike Vank, you are able to take pictures.

JAME MOSQUE AND THE BAZAAR escorted excursion with your guide. Esfahan's Jame Mosque is the third enormously impressive mosque in the city, alongside the two in Imam Square. Built on the original site of a fire temple, it is the oldest of the three, dating back to the 11th century, and preserves within its cavernous chambers a cross section of Islamic history unparalleled in Iran. The different iwans date from the Seljuk, Mongol and Safavid eras. Take your pick as to the highlight, though just standing in the square and watching the occasional mullah or worshipper drift by is a pleasant way to pass the time. There are plenty of legends here, particularly about the Taj al-Molk dome. It is undoubtedly beautiful and, for its time, is really quite amazing. Locals claim it as the most perfect dome ever constructed, due in no small part to its ability to survive earthquakes and invasions.

From the Jame Mosque to the south is the bazaar. It extends right down to Imam Square, almost 1 km away, and it is easy to get lost. As you draw near to Imam Square you will see more typical souvenir shops, and you will have time for some shopping tomorrow.

DINNER WITH AN IRANIAN FAMILY Shared excursion Your driver will take you to the home of Massoud and Azar, who welcome Audley clients into their home to show them what everyday life in Esfahan is really like. You'll spend around four hours here, sipping tea and chatting about their experiences of living in Iran, America, and Dubai. You also learn how to make some of the key Iranian dishes and if you're particularly keen on cookery then you may even be able to help prepare some of the food. However, best of all is that you get to have dinner with them and eat some of Azar's delicious home cooked food, this will be without doubt your best meal in Iran. This is a truly unique experience and one which most visitors to Esfahan don't have the opportunity to do.

Dinner with Massoud and Azar

The Abbasi Hotel, Esfahan Breakfast and lunch are included

Thursday, 01 At leisure in Esfahan November 2012 The Abbasi Hotel, Esfahan Breakfast and lunch are included

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

Friday, 02 ESFAHAN TO TEHRAN VIA QOM November 2012 Shared transfer with your tour group and guide This long journey takes you through a gap in the Zagros Mountains and down into the western fringes of the Dasht-e Kavir desert. To break the journey you'll visit Qom, Iran's true seat of power since 1979. Qom is the centre of Iran's religious government, and isn't particularly attractive, with the exception of the amazing gold dome of the Hazrat-e Mazumeh. Non-Muslims are sadly not permitted to enter here, though it might be worth going for a walk in town as you will see many mullahs in their distinctive brown clothes heading for the mosques. Around 1.5 hours on from Qom you'll draw close to the capital. It is sometimes possible to see Mt Damavand, Iran's highest peak at 5671m, in the distance.

Eskan Hotel, Tehran Breakfast and lunch are included

Saturday, 03 SHARED TRANSFER FROM HOTEL TO THE AIRPORT November 2012 shared transfer with your group with your guide

TEHRAN (IKA) TO LONDON HEATHROW British Midland flight - Flight No: BD 932 - Dep: 0305 - Arr: 0740 - (same day) - Duration: 08hr 05min; Class: Economy Class; This flight will touch down in Yerevan to refuel

IMPORTANT NOTES • Flight times and the daily order of sightseeing are subject to change. • Transfer times are approximate and subject to local conditions at the time of travel. • All flight times are local.

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

ACCOMMODATION INFORMATION

Your accommodation is described on the following pages. Please do not hesitate to call us if you require any further information about any of the properties. We classify accommodation into the following categories. These are for your guidance only, they are based on the opinions of our staff and are therefore quite subjective.

OUR ACCOMMODATION GRADING SYSTEM

Basic: Very primitive accommodation where we are not aware of anything better. Simple: Clean and simple but limited facilities. Medium: A good standard of accommodation, reasonable range of facilities. First Class: A high standard of accommodation with a wide range of facilities. Deluxe: Superb accommodation with facilities and service to match. Opulent: The world’s most unashamedly luxurious hotels and resorts.

ESKAN HOTEL, TEHRAN Medium Well located, not far from Imam Square, Eskan House is one of the most modern options of Tehran's hotel choices, having opened in mid 2008. It is light and airy and has lovely décor. Staff members are friendly and very keen to help. You feel welcomed and looked after here. Rooms and public areas are clean and well presented.

Lobby, Escan Hotel

Standard, Eskan Hotel, Tehran

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

ABYANEH HOTEL, ABYANEH Simple This hotel is the best that Abyaneh can offer. It is actually perfectly acceptable, whereas two years ago all accommodation was basic in the village meaning that many visitors had to try to day-trip here. Abyaneh Hotel is decorated in the local style, family run and ever so welcoming. The advantage of staying in Abyaneh is that it is at its best at sunset and in the morning, but only if the weather is good. The hotel has good sized ensuite rooms that are simply furnished but clean, and the food is good. Try the Bademjun.

Standard room, Abyaneh Hotel, Abyaneh

FAHADAN HOTEL, YAZD Medium Contrary to its address, this newly renovated hotel is not opposite a prison, but right in the heart of Yazd's old town, where it is quiet. Owned and renovated by the same people as Mehr Hotel, it is a traditional property and rooms are arranged around a courtyard.

Courtyard, fahadan hotel, Yazd

Twin room, Fahadan hotel, Yazd

PARS HOTEL, SHIRAZ First Class Well located on the central Zand Avenue, the Pars Hotel is a good modern option with pleasant rooms and facilities and English speaking staff. Privately owned and with friendly, English speaking reception staff, this is a chic and well presented option for Shiraz and boasts several restaurants, as well as a pool.

Lobby, Pars Hotel, Shiraz

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012

THE ABBASI HOTEL, ESFAHAN First Class Built around the remains of a caravanserai originally established by Shah Abbas, The Abbasi is Esfahan's best and most characterful hotel. In many respects, it is like a museum. Everything is on a grand scale except for the rooms which is why we don't rate the hotel as "deluxe". There is a swimming pool and sauna (available on a rotational basis) and a choice of attractive restaurants, with outdoor dining in the central courtyard a real treat in spring and summer. The location is good, off the main road and within walking distance of Imam Square. The ornate breakfast room is remarkable and may just be the grandest room you'll ever have breakfast in!

The Abbasi Hotel, Esfahan

Standard room, The Abbasi Hotel

PASSAGE THROUGH PERSIA OCTOBER 2012