Central Iran اﯾران ﻣرﮐزى
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© Lonely Planet Publications 221 Central Iran ﺍﻳﺮﺍﻥ ﻣﺮﮐﺰی Ever since Cyrus the Great’s dramatic rise from provincial overlord to ruler of the largest empire on earth, central Iran has been something of a showcase for the region’s great- est civilisations. The unrelenting splendour and majesty of Esfahan, the refined elegance of Shiraz and the mud-brick antiquity of Yazd, Abyaneh and Kharanaq are a fascinating contrast, representing the fusion over 2500 years of myriad cultures and starkly differ- ent terrains. Then, of course, there’s that monumental expression of artistic harmony commissioned by Darius I – Persepolis. With so much on offer, it’s no surprise that the towns of Iran’s central provinces are where you’ll probably spend the most time. But it’s not just about ticking off the popular sights, because central Iran has many an unsung gem. Kashan, with its splendid mosques, gardens and magnificently restored traditional houses, is one. If you want to get off the beaten track there’s the desert oasis of Garmeh, the cave village of of Garmeh, caravanserai stops such as Zein-o-din and Toudeshk, or the chance to camp with nomads in the Zagros Mountains. CENTRAL IRAN Central Iran’s people are as diverse as the places they live. In Qom they’re conservative and religious, Shirazis are laid-back and fun-loving, and the Qashqa’i and Bakhtiari nomads live a lifestyle dictated by nature. Often you will experience the region’s cultural richness and physical beauty in combination: sitting in the garden of Hafez’s tomb discussing the ways of the world with a Shirazi medical student, perhaps; watching a nomad woman make yogurt by hand; or drinking tea with a carpet salesman in Esfahan’s Imam Sq. Whatever it is you happen upon, central Iran is a place you’ll remember for a long time. HIGHLIGHTS Watch the sun set over Esfahan’s many- splendoured Imam Square ( p238 ) from the rooftop Qeysarieh Tea Shop ( p249 ) Sit on the hill behind the sublime Persepolis ( p279 ), just soaking it all up Haggle over a carpet or kilim in the vaulted Garmeh arcades of Esfahan’s Bazar-e Bozorg ( p238 ) or Imam Square ( p238 ) Esfahan Lose yourself in the historic laneways of Yazd Yazd ( p255 ), and find yourself in a traditional Caravanserai Zein-o-din hotel Treat yourself to a dose of Safavid-era luxury in the wonderfully restored Caravanserai Persepolis Zein-o-din ( p267 ) Experience a real desert oasis at simple, silent Garmeh ( p254 ) 222 CENTRALὄὄ IRAN •• Qom lonelyplanet.com Booklonelyplanet.com your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels CENTRAL IRAN •• Qom 223 0 100 km CENTRAL IRAN 0 60 miles Sights no English sign, and the rooms and shared Qom Pilgrims come to Qom to see the shrine, bathrooms are uberbasic. But it’s the cheap- Markazi D a s h t - e K a v i r Saruq Baghestan-e Olia and that’s pretty much it. Southeast of the est in town and the welcome is warm. Popu- Mashhad-e Namak Lake Arak Aran Razavi Khan-e Khomeini Ardehal Khorasan Ferdows shrine the unremarkable lar with families, it’s a reasonable choice for Mahallat Kashan Niasar Esfahan (Ruhollah Sq), where Ayatollah Khomeini lived lone women travellers. Guests can use the Shazand Khur Abyaneh before being forced into exile, is of interest if utilitarian kitchen. ὄὄKhomein Natanz Tabas you’re staying in the midrange hotels nearby, Etminan Hotel (x660 9640; cnr Haramnema Lane & Golpayegan Garmeh Mt Karkas Ardestan Deyhuk though it’s not open to visitors. It’s the Imam Musa Sadr Blvd; s/d IR150,000/190,000) Some of Khonsar (3899m) Bayaziye single-storey place with rendered mud walls. the small but functional rooms with bright- Fereidun Daran Na'in pink squat bathrooms offer fine views of Shahr Esfahan the holy shrine, and double-glazing keeps ﺣﻀﺮﺕ ﻣﻌﺼﻮﻣﻪ Toudeshk HAZRAT-E MASUMEH Chelgerd Najaf Abad Khorasgan Chak Shahr-e Kord Chak At the physical and spiritual centre of Qom most of the noise out. There’s a kitchen, Farsan Yazd Zarrin Ardakan Kharanaq is the Hazrat-e Masumeh (h24hr), the burial and hefty discounts are possible. Chahar Mahal va Shahr D a s h t - e L u t Meybod Bakhteyari Ardal Shahreza x Borujen Yazd place of Imam Reza’s sister Fatemeh, who Negin Hotel ( 663 0246; neginhotel2006@yahoo Khuzestan Fahraj Taft Behabad died and was interred here in the 9th cen- .com; Haramnema Lane; s/d/tr IR120,000/150,000/200,000; Lordegan Mt Sir Saryazd Bafgh a) (4074m) Mehriz tury AD. It’s an impressive sight, with one The Negin is a step up from its neigh- Zein-o-din Mehdi Abad Boyerahmad Abadeh enormous tiled dome and another golden bours and fair value. Semirom Z Kermanshah va Kohgiluyeh a g Abarqu (x774 8450; Astane Sq; s/tw/apt IR150,000/ Pataveh r o dome flanked by exquisite minarets. Much Aria Hotel Dehdasht s Fars of what you see today was built under Shah 200,000/500,000; ai) With its front-row spot Yasuj Eqlid M Anar Zarand Behbahan o Poolad Kaf Suryanu Abbas I and the other Safavid kings who overlooking Astane Sq, the Aria’s rooms, Sepidan n Dogombadan (Bavanat) t Marvast (Ardakan) Pasargadae a Rafsanjan were anxious to establish their Shiite cre- some with six beds, are good value, especially Naqsh-e Rajab Bazm i Kerman Nur Naqsh-e Rostam n dentials and provide a counterweight to in low season. Popular with Arab pilgrims. Sa'adatshahr s Bagein Abad Marvdasht Harat Shahr-e Babak Persian Karim Khan the sect’s shrines at Karbala and Najaf (in Safa Apartment Hotel (x773 2499; Mo’allem St; r Bushehr CENTRAL IRAN Gulf Bridge Persepolis (Takht-e Jamshid) modern-day Iraq), then under Ottoman US$49-80; pa) It’s busy, but the rooms are Bandar-e Kazerun Bishapur Shiraz Lake Kerman Gonave Tashk Lake Sirjan To Zahedan occupation. The magnificent golden cupola tired – and when we visited, staff seemed Khark ὄὄKherameh Baft (311km) Borazjan Bakhtegan Island was an embellishment built by Qajar ruler tired of seeing so many guests. Head here Neyriz Fath Ali Shah, and today’s ‘shahs’, the Ayat- only if Ghasr is full. Don’t confuse this with Bushehr Estehban To Bandar Ahram Firuz Abad Abbas (207km) ollahs of Qom, have embarked on a massive the budget Safa on Imam Musa Sadr Blvd. project to expand the complex. Ghasr Apartment Hotel (x783 1151; fax 783 (Despite the ever-present scaffolding the Nonmuslims are allowed into the grounds 1154; Mo’allem St; ste/apt with breakfast US$50/94; a ﻗﻢ CENTRAL IRAN QOM x0251 / pop 1,070,000 / elevὄὄ 931m shrine is magnificent. And if you are not (women must wear a chador, available at This new, modern-styled hotel has good- Iran’s second-holiest city after Mashhad, going to Mashhad and have an interest in entrance No 3 on Eram St), but not to see sized rooms and facilities at fair prices. Qom (Ghom) is home to both the mag- the kind of devotion that is a hallmark of the shrine itself. However, several readers Double beds are available; apartments have nificent Hazrat-e Masumeh shrine and Shiism, then Qom is worth a quick visit. report wandering around either with an es- two bedrooms. the hardline clerics who have ruled the Note that little English is spoken in Qom. cort or alone. Cameras are banned unless country since 1980. The genesis of the you can convince the stewards otherwise. Eating 1979 revolution can be credited to Qom, Orientation The dining in Qom is about as diverse as from where clerics had railed against the Hotels, restaurants and countless souvenir Sleeping the range of faiths: standard Iranian cui- shah’s regime since well before Ayatollah shops coalesce around the Hazrat-e Mas- Qom’s sleeping options are conveniently sine with felafel to meet the Arab-pilgrim Khomeini was exiled in 1964. Today it umeh shrine and neighbouring Qom River. gathered by budget range. Most budget demand. Not surprisingly, most of the in- remains one of Iran’s most religious and The ‘river’, however, is so dry that it has places are in or near Haramnema Lane, a dependent eateries are lined up along busy conservative cities, where Shiite scholars been concreted over and is usually used as small alleyway just north of the Ahanchi Mar’ashi Najafi St, opposite the shrine and and students come from across the world a car park, market and late-night raceway. Bridge, opposite the shrine. There are also square, and include kababis (kabab shops), to study in the madrasehs. Buses stop at Haftdad Sq, 4.5km from the some lower midrange places in the lane, but pizza and barbecued chicken joints, drink The ‘peoplescape’ of Qom is absorbing shrine, en route to and from Tehran. their foreign prices are so high that they shops and a couple of restaurants. in its contrasts. Mullahs and religious stu- aren’t worth it – without a big discount. Qom is famous for sohun, a sinfully deli- dents mix with a steady flow of pilgrims, Information Shop around. Three new midrange places cious pistachio-and-ginger brittle, which is and everywhere you look women wear the Bank Melli (Mar’ashi Najafi St) Slow as a wet week. have opened about 2km southwest of the often sold in attractive tin boxes and makes head-to-toe chador. But even Qom is seeing Coffeenet (Mo’allem St; per hr IR6000; h10am-10pm) shrine. During religious festivals Qom is a good gift. some change, and the odd figure-hugging International Telephone Centre (Mar’ashi Najafi St; packed, and it’s busier most Fridays.