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Brewing Wild/Sour the best of ® BREWING WILD/SOUR Please note all file contents are Copyright © 2021 Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved. This file is for the buyer’s personal use only. It’s unlawful to share or distribute this file to others in any way including e-mailing it, posting it online, or sharing printed copies with others. WILD FERMENTATIONS BY MICHAEL TONSMEIRE & AT HOME MATT HUMBARD remember several years ago Jean Van Roy at Cantillon telling me, ‘You can spontaneously ferment “I in the United States, but, keep in mind that it probably won’t be the same way we do it here. You might have to come up with your own program.’ In the case of Allagash they’ve pretty much been able to copy how it is done in Belgium and they are getting amazing/similar results as our friends in Belgium. For us, we’ve had to come up with a couple of hybrid methods to make it happen.” – Vinnie Cilurzo, Brewmaster and Co-Owner of Russian River Brewing Co. Out of all of the ways to sour a beer, the most romantic is to let the fresh wort ensnare wild yeast and bacteria from the air as it slowly cools. People often refer to Brettanomyces as “wild yeast,” but the truth is that the strains most brewers pitch have been selected, isolated, and The coolship at Cantillon, where hot wort is pumped to cool and pick up ambient yeast and microbial flora in the air of Brussels, Belgium. propagated and are no longer truly wild. While using untamed microbes Over the last decade, a small to produce these beers. may not be as easy as pitching a number of American brewers have Using the right recipe and wort mixed culture from a Wyeast or not only started to experiment production techniques will increase White Labs, the flavors created can but have also succeeded with their the probability of a success. Produce be far more exciting. own spontaneous fermentations. a wort rich in chains of sugar A mixed culture of wild yeast Despite the risks, more than a dozen molecules too long to be fermented and bacteria was the only option for craft brewers scattered across the by Saccharomyces, dextrins and fermenting beer until Louis Pasteur country (including New Hampshire, starches. For lambics, this result is identified and isolated brewer’s yeast California, Texas, Alaska and traditionally accomplished with a (Saccharomyces) 150 years ago. While Michigan) are fermenting with their turbid mash. No complex regimen brewers in Germany and England own local microflora. Although I is required, but I suggest using a continue to produce beers with have not yet tasted a spontaneously conversion rest at least in the high microbes in addition to Saccharomyces fermented American beer to equal a 150 °F (around 70 °C) range. Wild (like Berliner weisse and a few gueuze from 3 Fonteinen, Girardin or Brettanomyces, Lactobacillus and traditional old ales), the only place Cantillon, it may only be a matter of Pediococcus produce the enzymes where spontaneous fermentation time and commitment. necessary to ferment these complex survived on a commercial scale was carbohydrates. (If you don’t do a in Belgium. However, as public tastes WORT PRODUCTION turbid mash or accidentally end up gravitated more towards sweetness, When planning to spontaneous with mash temperatures near the most large Belgian producers ferment any beer, you need to lower end of the usual range, don’t began blending pasteurized lambic, start with suitable wort. Standard worry that your wort won’t sour at fermented in stainless steel, with pale ale wort, for example, is not all; even the driest beers achieve only fruit syrup. With dry, sour beers a good candidate for spontaneous about 75% real attenuation.) regaining popularity, the handful of fermentation. Aside from the fact While any grain bill suitable for a traditional Belgian lambic brewers that sour and bitter flavors don’t pitched sour beer could be used, every and gueuze blenders who remain generally work well together, this American brewer experimenting are lauded for producing beers with type of wort is a poor choice in that with spontaneous fermentation that a balance of acidity and complexity even moderate hop levels inhibit I have spoken with has stayed close unrivaled by any other fermentation. some of the bacteria that are needed to the lambic template: between 30 1 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine Brewing Wild/Sour © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved and 40 percent unmalted wheat, with Publications) suggests 4 ounces of TIMING YOUR BREW the remainder being Pilsner malt. aged hops per 5-gallon batch (120 g Outside temperature is the key Extract brewers can substitute wheat in 20 L) as the traditional rate used indicator for determining the best malt extract supplemented with 10% by Belgian lambic brewers. However, time to capture wild microbes. Wild maltodextrin to boost the percentage the American brewers I talked to have Brews reports that during the hot of dextrins in the wort. all settled on lower hopping rates. summer months lactic acid bacteria Spontaneous fermentation is the The range spanned from 2.6 to 3.3 are too prevalent for successful single sour beer brewing method that ounces per five gallons (80-100 g per spontaneous fermentation. Several absolutely requires aged hops. Their 20 L). The brewers of Allagash tasted brewers suggested to me that antimicrobial contribution prevents a metallic off-flavor in early batches vinegar-producing Acetobacter is wild Lactobacillus from reducing of their spontaneously fermented the graver concern. Hot summer the pH of the wort too far before beers and traced the cause to the temperatures also slow natural Saccharomyces has sufficient time to traditional lambic hopping rate. cooling, allowing thermophilic complete its fermentation. bacteria more time to flourish before Aging hops at a warm temperature SAFETY the wort cools below 105 °F (41 °C) and exposing them to air causes their An oft-repeated reassurance to where yeast can thrive. alpha acids to oxidize, thus reducing beginning brewers is that no matter Before undertaking their their bitterness contribution. While how bad a beer tastes, it will not spontaneous fermentation project, isomerized alpha acids are partly make you sick. Although true with the brewers at Allagash compared responsible for the antimicrobial standard fermentation, it is not their weather pattern in Portland, properties of hops, enough other necessarily the case when it comes Maine to the epicenter of lambic compounds survive, or are created to spontaneous fermentation. brewing, Brussels, Belgium. During by oxidation, to maintain the When I spoke with Jason Perkins, most of the year, temperatures are desired effect. Many of these other Brewmaster of Allagash, about his similar, but since Maine is much compounds have low solubility coolship, he was audibly nervous colder in the winter and lambic characteristics in wort, which is part at the thought of homebrewers brewers do not brew in the heat of the of the reason that aged hops should attempting something similar. He summer, Allagash decided to avoid be boiled in the wort for an extended warned me that “the things that starting spontaneous fermentations period of time (three to four hours). usually keep you safe aren’t there. in both winter and summer. Jason If, on the other hand, you were to use You are making a big yummy nutrient considers an outside temperature of a sufficient amount of un-aged hops soup that all the things you worry 40 °F (4.5 °C) to be ideal. to inhibit Lactobacillus, the bitterness about can grow in.” they contributed would clash with For the first few weeks of INOCULATION the sourness in the resulting beer. fermentation, there is a chance One way to think about the process You can usually buy hops that that pathogenic enteric bacteria, for producing lambic/gueuze is that have already been aged or debittered like Escherichia coli and Salmonella, the wort is being fermenting by a for a reasonable price. Homebrewers might take up residence in your beer. carefully selected and propagated might also consider aging their Luckily, as soon as the desired yeast mixed house culture. Microbes own hops if planning on frequent and bacteria lower the pH and pro- floating on the breeze land in the spontaneous fermentations. The duce sufficient alcohol, the danger wort and initiate fermentation in standard approach is to place is gone. Evaluate spontaneous the “horny tank,” but at this point whole, low alpha acid hops in a fermentations only by sight and the beer is pumped into microbe rich container large enough to allow smell for the first month. Do not barrels that held previous batches of air circulation. Keep the container taste samples early in fermentation. fermenting lambic. out of direct sunlight, and in low If growing a big vat of E. coli For decades lambic brewers and humidity to prevent mold growth. seems like a bad idea, then artifi- blenders have been reusing the After three years properly (poorly) cially lower the pH of the wort below barrels that have yielded good beer, stored hops will smell similar to 4.4 to prevent these bacteria from and getting rid of the ones that have dried hay. Adequately aged hops will reproducing. Acidification could be produced less pleasing brews. The not smell excessively cheesy or off, accomplished with a sour mash, first time a barrel is filled with wort although their aroma may be slightly sour worting or acid malt, but adding it is usually inoculated with microbe unappealing. The extended boil also food grade lactic acid is the easiest laden beer from an established helps to volatilize any off-aromas.
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