Beaches, Beaches Havana Culture Colonial Masterpieces Water Fun Natural Wonders

Guide to Cuba

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AIR-11-0679 Canada - Canadian Traveller (Guide Cuba).indd 1 6/29/11 9:37:46 AM AIR TRANSAT: DIRECT FLIGHTS TO CUBA

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Starting nov. 1, 2011 Direct flights to Cuba from: Calgary, Edmonton, Regina, Winnipeg, Thunder Bay, Hamilton, Quebec City, St. John’s and other cities. WELCOME ON BOARD! O De i s oPtion PLUS Cayo Coco An Economy Class option with loads of advantages and priority services to help passengers & Cayo Guillermo save time: priority check-in and baggage handling, a 10kg excess baggage allowance, Cayo Largo seat selection and many more privileges! Cayo Santa Maria Havana KiDS CLUB (Duos with Varadero) Faster check-in and priority baggage delivery make travelling easier for families! N o s. New C o s. New Look. Holguin Free membership for children ages 2 to 11 residing in Canada. New Se . Santa Lucia Fun destinations, lively resorts, sun-splashed beaches and amazing CLUB CLaSS Santiago de Cuba vacations at unbelievable prices! Refined comfort and personalized service. Travellers enjoy exclusive privileges such as Varadero a dedicated check-in counter, a spacious cabin with wider, leather seats, a choice of fine wines and much more! Cuba. Always hot Birthplace of salsa and mambo, Cuba is a sure crowd pleaser. Heavenly beaches, fabulous excursions, exciting water sports, a fascinating history and that incomparable Cuban charm provide the perfect backdrop for a fun-ﬁ lled vacation!

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AIR-11-0679 Canada - Canadian Traveller (Guide Cuba).indd 1 6/29/11 9:37:46 AM NOL-11-0673 CANADIAN_TRAVELLER_cuba.indd 1 6/30/11 11:41:15 AM The Authentic Caribbean

It doesn’t get any more real than Cuba. An intoxicating blend of culture, cuisine, history, adventure, wildlife, nightlife and, of course, stunning beaches on crystal waters, the country is the place for an authentic Caribbean experience.

Take the cuisine. Time-honoured recipes have created a mouth-watering array of national dishes that reflect Spanish, African and indigenous influences, and include lechón (roast pork), fried green plan- tains (tachinos, chatinos or tostones), black beans, congrí (rice with red beans), moros y cristianos (rice with black beans), picadillo a la habanera (ground beef in tomato sauce), roast chicken and tamales, as well as ajiaco, a stew of assorted root vegetables cooked with pork, poultry or beef that is the national dish. Don’t forget the cocktails. Cuba’s famous cocktails – the mojito, Cuba libre and the daiquiri – are based on Cuba’s famous rums. White rum is best for mixing, while gold and aged rums are better for sipping. History is alive in the architecture and tradi- tions of colonial cities like Trinidad, Cienfuegos, Baracoa, Camaguey, Santiago de Cuba, Bayamo and Remedios, one of Cuba’s oldest settlements. And then there is Havana, an amazing place for fine dining at paladares, dancing at local nightclubs, hot bar-hopping along the Calle Obispo, high cul- World Heritage Sites In Cuba ture at an array of galleries, museums and perform- • The Historic Centre of Old Havana and its System of ing arts venues and some of the friendliest folks in Colonial Fortifications (1982) the Caribbean. Cruise the city in vintage cabs, take • Trinidad and the Valle de los Ingenios (1988) a city tour, stroll along the malecon; there is always • San Pedro de la Roca (1997) something to see and someone to meet. • Desenbarco del Granma National Park (1999) Out in the countryside, Cuba is blessed with an • Archaeological Landscape of the first coffee plantations on the abundance of natural beauty. In fact, four per cent of southeast of Cuba (2000) the world’s land species live here, including three of • La Tumba Francesa, declared a masterpiece of the World the smallest: the pygmy frog, the bee hummingbird Cultural Heritage (2000) and the butterfly bat. There are magnificent parks to • Alejandro de Humboldt National Park (2001) hike, bike and ride through, several of which are pro- • Historic Centre of Cienfuegos (2005) tected as bio-reserves. Explore the remains of coffee • Historic Centre of Camaguey (2008) plantations, or indigenous camp sites. Water adventures are endless, and diving is amazing in these waters. Unmatched visibility, diversity and sites attract people from all over the world. Many resorts offer lessons and certification. On the waves, sailing, windsurfing and para-sailing get the blood pumping. For a more tranquil experience, there are kayaks, paddleboats and a quick dip in the sea. It’s all here in the real Cuba, the authentic Caribbean. Cuba

4 AUGUST 2011 Canadian Traveller 20 Inside It’s Always Sunny In Cuba 4 Captivating Colonial Towns 10 A Feast For The Senses 16 Water, Water Everywhere 20 Nature At Its Finest 22

CUBA – A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO THE AUGUST 2011 ISSUE OF CANADIAN TRAVELLER

Published 12 times a year by Cover Photo Credit: Nolitours

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21 Canadian Traveller AUGUST 2011 5 It’s Always Sunny In Cuba By Merle Rosenstein

Cuba welcomed a record 945,000 Canadian sun seekers in 2010. With many must-do activities across the island, it’s clear why Canadians love Cuba. And after touring historical buildings in Old Havana, sampling cigars along the Route of Tobacco, and hiking in the forests of Pinar del Rio, sun worshippers head for Cuba’s beautiful beaches. Like Cuban dance and music styles, beaches across the island are many and varied. So let’s take a tour of some of Cuba’s hottest sun spots beginning with the best known – Varadero.

Cayo Las Brujas, Villa Santa Maria. Cayo Largo Cuba Nolitours Cuba Tourist Board Tourist Cuba

6 AUGUST 2011 Canadian Traveller 22 Cuba Tourist Board Tourist Cuba

Cayo Coco

Varadero Cuba Nolitours

23 Canadian Traveller AUGUST 2011 7 agricultural district. A 402-kilometre coral Varadero reef, second in size only to the Great Barrier Cuba’s premier beach destination, Varadero Reef, makes the islands of Jardines del Rey or Playa Azul in Matanzas province is 134 ideal for snorkelling and diving. Cayo Coco kilometres from Havana. This 21-kilometre and Cayo Guillermo are two hot spots. strip of sparkling white sand on the Hicacos Cayo Coco: Cayo Coco, a 22-kilometre Peninsula juts out into the crystal clear stretch of beach, boasts mangroves and Atlantic. A string of hotels backs onto the more than 200 species of birds. Four diving flat expanse of beach, and bars and other centres and 20 diving sites provide ample amenities are within shouting distance. opportunity for divers to view many variet- But Varadero is not just a place to chill ies of sea life such as parrotfish, grunts, yel- in the sand. Visitors to Varadero can jump lowtail snappers, queen angelfish, anemo- on jet skis at the marina on the Bay of nes and spiny lobster. Cardenas, dive among shipwrecks and trop- Cayo Guillermo: Ernest Hemingway ical fish in Cayo Piedra Underwater Park, or spent a lot of time on Cayo Guillermo dur- play a round of golf at the Varadero Golf ing the Second World War, fishing in the Club with its intricate system of lagoons. crystal clear waters in his boat Pilar. This Centre Plaza América, an international con- 13.2 square-kilometre island boasts three vention centre, has shopping malls, restau- and a half kilometres of beaches and the rants and amusement centres. Adventure tallest sand dunes in the Caribbean Islands. seekers won’t want to miss Bellamar Cave, deep in the cliff overlooking Matanzas Bay, one of the Caribbean’s largest and most Cayos Of Villa Clara beautiful underground formations. The Cayos of Villa Clara lie off the northern For the young and young at heart, coast of Villa Clara Province with more than cabarets, variety shows and live music make 17 kilometres of untouched beach property, nighttime in Varadero something to savour. newly opened to tourists. Most popular among these beaches are Cayo Santa Maria and Las Brujas. ‘El Pedraplen’, a 48-kilometre Holguin causeway, joins Cayo Santa Maria, Las Brujas Holguin, a rugged mountainous region in and Ensenachos Cayos to the mainland. northeastern Cuba, boasts 350 kilometres Cayo Santa Maria: The newest beach of coastline and 41 white-sand beaches. destination in Cuba is 13 kilometres long The many species of plants and trees and and up to two kilometres wide, with plenty wide variety of fish and birds make Holguin of open beach for visitors to explore. Part attractive for ecotourism. Best beaches of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Cayo include Guardalavaca, Playa Esmeralda and Santa Maria has no permanent residents Cayo Saetia. Guardalavaca Beach.

Cuba Tourist Board Tourist Cuba and remains a charming island paradise Guardalavaca Beach: Guardalavaca exotic animals such as wild boars, buffalos, with clean white sandy beaches, shallow Beach faces the Atlantic Ocean 54 kilome- ostriches, peacocks, zebras, antelopes, cane clear water, stunning natural scenery and an tres northeast of Holguin Province, with rats, wild bulls and tocororo birds. abundance of diverse wildlife. Birds on the 1.5 kilometres of powdery white sand island include anhingas, seagulls, flamingos, surrounded by lush vegetation. The clear woodpeckers, hawks and the tocororo, the waters and coral reefs support many species Cayo Largo del Sur national bird of Cuba. The little island is also of marine life such as barracuda, sword- Cayo Largo del Sur, one of the largest of home to numerous species of reptiles. fish, peacock fish and Spanish mackerel. 300 cayos and islets of the Los Canarreos On Cayo Santa Maria, outdoor enthu- Excellent underwater visibility allows for Archipelago, lies on the Caribbean Sea, 177 siasts can snorkel, dive to find an amazing top-notch diving and exploration of under- kilometres south of Havana. Strips of virgin variety of fish lurking in the coral formations water caves. beach with sun-bleached sand and warm or go hiking. Other active pursuits are wind- Playa Esmeralda: Surrounded by crystal clear water extend for 27 kilometres. surfing, swimming, sailing, deep-sea fishing, cliffs and an abundance of plant life, the This tranquil island gives off a laid-back vibe speed boat racing and water-skiing. And his- crescent-shaped Playa Esmeralda frames and is clothing optional. Iguanas, chelonian, tory buffs enjoy exploring the ancient caves. deep green waters and has thick coral pelicans and herons make their homes on Puebla La Estrella is an outdoor shop- reefs. This 900-metre long beach, five Cayo Largo. A 35-kilometre coral reef is ping, dining and amusement centre next kilometres east of Guardalavaca is perfect home to black coral and underwater enthu- to Barcelo Cayo Santa Maria. The Puebla, for water play such as diving, snorkelling, siasts appreciate more than 30 diving sites operated by Gaviota, has nine restaurants, windsurfing, catamaran sailing or sail- and an international diving centre. four bars, a bowling alley, coffee shops, a boarding. An aquarium in nearby Bahia de spa, a cigar shop, a gym and a disco. The Naranjo Natural Reserve offers swimming Jardines del Rey restaurants offer fine dining in an elegant with dolphins. These tiny islands off the Atlantic coast of atmosphere. Special spa packages are avail- Cayo Saetia: Situated on Nipe Bay, Cuba, 177 kilometres from Havana, inspired able for couples. At the Bar Literario, live the tiny island of Cayo Saetia extends Ernest Hemingway’s well-known novels music is played every night. A shuttle takes 42 kilometres across 12 small beaches. Islands in the Stream and The Old Man and visitors to and from their hotels. With a high concentration of forest, the the Sea. The islands of Jardines del Rey are Las Brujas: This tiny islet treasure secluded beaches support a wide array of a nature-lover’s paradise and are home to boasts exquisite white sand and warm azure wildlife. Unique to this island are brown flamingos and roseate spoonbills. A 27-kilo- water. Bridges built over 1.6 kilometres of rock formations scattered along the shore. metre causeway links the islands to the

Cuba beach are there to allow animals free move- This wilderness area is home to native and mainland province of Ciego de Avila, Cuba’s ment and to protect the environment. ,

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NOL-11-0674 CANADIAN_TRAVELLER_cuba_Final.indd 1 7/4/11 1:47:18 PM Captivating Colonial Towns

By Judi Lees

Those who think Cuba is all about beaches and mojitos need to think again. True, this finger of an island located in the Caribbean just south of Florida boasts myriad silvery beaches but it is also a virtual outdoor museum of colonial towns and cities. A visit to Cuba should include exploration of some of its historical sites, many Cuba Tourist Board Tourist Cuba of which are well lauded as they are among the country’s nine listings on UNESCO’s World Heritage sites. Cuba

10 AUGUST 2011 Canadian Traveller 26 Trinidad Take Trinidad. Declared a World Heritage site in 1988, it is renowned for its splen- did, well-preserved colonial architecture. The historic city centre covers 55 blocks and includes more than 1,200 buildings. As visitors meander along the cobbled streets a tapestry of history unfolds. Weathered facades have a majestic beauty enhanced by wrought iron detail and heavy wooden doors. The pastel-coloured homes are typified by red terracotta roofs and some elaborate brick work. Founded in 1514, Trinidad is among Cuba’s oldest cities. The historic heart of the city is Plaza Mayor which is also the location of the town’s famous museums, housed in what once were the wealthy landowners’ homes. Most of these buildings date from the 18th and 19th centuries when this region was affluent thanks to the sugar plantations in nearby Valle de los Ingenios. Trinidad is dubbed “the museum city”, visitors can spend hours in this picturesque plaza lined by the Museum of Colonial Architecture, the Museum of Anthropology Guamuhaya and the Romantic Museum. The latter is housed in the Brunet Palace that features a balus- trade courtyard, frescoes and the original Historic town square, Trinidad marble floor dating back to 1812. Cuba

27 Canadian Traveller AUGUST 2011 11 for many. Set on a remote northeastern shoreline, the colonial village sits in lush rainforest and is edged by pristine beaches. Its most famous landmark is El Yunque, a distinctive table-topped hill. Founded in 1511 by the first governor of Cuba, the Spanish conquistador Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar, Baracoa is the oldest Spanish settlement in Cuba and was its first capital; it is also known as Ciudad Primera, “First City”. When in this historic town, it is a rite of passage to stroll the Malecon. A shorter version of the famed one in Havana, it leads to a park with a statue of Christopher Columbus that is hand-hewn out of a huge tree stump. Legend has it that Columbus put a cross, ‘Cruz de la Parra’ in the sands Catedral de Nuestra Señora of what is now the Baracoa Harbour. de la Asuncion, Baracoa At the small church with the long shutterstock/PHB.cz name, ‘Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Ignacio Agramonte Jacqua Fortress, Asuncion’ the wooden cross – or what is Park, Camaguey Cienfuegos left of it – can be viewed. Worshippers apparently take pieces off the cross and while it has been carbon dated to the time of Columbus, it is also indicated that it did not come from Europe. In any case, it is all that exists of the 29 crosses that the explorer erected in the new world.

Camaguey Camaguey is the capital of Cuba’s largest province of the same name. It is the country’s third largest city but quite possibly one of its least known; a shame because it is culturally rich and a delight to explore. Its maze of narrow streets, said to be the nar-

Cuba Tourist Board Tourist Cuba Board Tourist Cuba rowest in Cuba, were deliberately designed to confuse pirates. government buildings, the Terry Theatre, It was founded in the 16th century (there Cienfuegos Purisima Concepcion Cathedral, Town Hall Located on the southern coast, Cienfuegos’ is no definite date as Spanish records are and Ferrer Palace. Be impressed by the nickname, Pearl of the South, hints at scarce), and the oldest building is believed to cathedral’s exquisite stained glass windows. its beauty thanks to its location at the be the cathedral that dates back to 1530, two Perhaps most eye-catching is Ferrer Palace, entrance of Cienfuegos Bay. Its remarkable years before Havana was declared the capital. constructed by a wealthy Catalan, Jose collection of Neoclassic buildings is also Attractions include the Principal Ferrer Sires, it boasts an elaborate balcony believed to be the best in the Caribbean. Theatre, built in 1850, the Puerto Principe overlooking the park. The city was settled by the French in Cemetery, the country’s oldest dated at Don’t miss Jacqua Fortress, at the 1819, led by Don Louis de Clouet, a wealthy 1814, the Ignacio Agramonte Museum that entrance to the bay, which was erected businessman from Louisiana who promoted features history and decorative arts and the by the Spanish king Philip V in the 1740s. the region that became affluent thanks Amalia Simoni Manor that showcases art The fortress was built to repel attacks from to crops of sugar, citrus fruits, cattle and and furniture. pirates. Visitors will enjoy a small museum coffee. The French influence along with In addition to the labyrinth of snaking that exhibits information about this early- these same exports from the province of streets, the city is characterized by the day castle-like fortress. Cienfuegos still remain today and coupled number of large public squares such as In 2005, Cienfuegos was added to the with its rich cultural background make Ignacio Agramonte Park that was originally UNESCO World Heritage List. Cienfuegos a must-see. Arms Square, created in 1528 and San Juan Broad and majestic streets lead to Marti de Dios Square built in the 18th century. Park, an idyllic place to pass time as well Baracoa Law forbids that houses be white so the as to admire the sights. A granite compass Talk about a claim to fame, Baracoa residences of Camaguey offer a kaleido- marks where the first French settlers began is believed to be where Christopher scope of brilliant colours. The Spaniards building the city and it boasts Cuba’s only Columbus first landed in 1492. He wrote in were influenced by Moorish design that ‘Arco de Triunfo’. The perimeter of this his logbook that it was “the most beautiful is evident in the architecture, and many

Cuba picturesque park is lined with impressive place in the world” – pretty high praise. houses have unusual Moorish screens. and well-restored structures including Today Baracoa still lives up to these plaudits Tinajon, large earthenware jars used to

12 AUGUST 2011 Canadian Traveller 28

settlements established by Governor Diego Iglesia Mayor of San Juan Velazquez. It was here that the national Bautista, Remedios anthem was first sung on October 20, 1868 and on January 12, 1869 the citizens burned their city to prevent the Spaniards from occupying it. These events, as well as others, determined Bayamo as the cradle of Cuban nationality and it has been declared a national monument. Visitors can explore this city that has a reputation for being laid-back and hassle- free on a horse and buggy ride, a Bayamo tradition. Visit the home of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, recognized as the father of the nation as he was the first to free slaves and he fought for Cuban independence. Metropolitan Cathedral, Other sights include the San Salvador de Santiago de Cuba Bayama Parish Church, Himno (National shutterstock/NicolasMcCombe Board Tourist Cuba Anthem) Square, Revolution Square, Cuban Nationality House, Museo Nico Lopez and Iglesia Mayor de San Salvador. It was at the latter church that the anthem was sung and a plaque commemorates this. A

Cuba Tourist Board Tourist Cuba mural depicts the blessing of the flag by Cespedes. Don’t miss Parque Cespedes, a relaxing square with a wealth of grand monuments and large, leafy trees.

Remedios Located on the north coast and founded in 1514, Remedios is one of the country’s oldest settlements and is a well-preserved colonial town known for its tranquility and pleasant inhabitants. Visitors can gather with the locals at Plaza Mayor (Central Plaza) to enjoy the monuments, leafy walkways, gazebo and the surrounding colonial buildings. Parque Cespedes, A highlight among Remedios’ colonial Bayamo architectural gems is the grand church, Iglesia Mayor of San Juan Bautista on the collect rainwater are seen on pretty court- and was declared a UNESCO World plaza; it has an intriguing story to tell. The yards of the houses, another distinguishing Cultural Heritage Site in 1997. church was renovated between 1944 and feature of this intriguing city. On January 1, 1959 Fidel Castro made his 1954 and a discovery was made. It seems famous announcement that the Revolution that in early days the city was taken over was successful at the Town Hall which by pirates and gold was hidden under the Santiago de Cuba painted altar. Today beautifully decorated Cradled between the brilliant waters of the dates from the 18th century. Along with gold altars can be seen in this grand church. Caribbean and the towering Sierra Maestra the Municipal House of Culture and the Remedios is the birthplace of the Mountains on the southeast coast, Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago de Cuba, Parrandas Festival that takes place on de Cuba boasts culture and history along it is an example of the city’s elegant and December 24 and is now celebrated in with its scenic setting. Founded in 1514, ornate historic buildings. many places in the world. Considered it was the country’s capital from 1522 to The beautifully restored Hotel Casa Cuba’s oldest festival, it began when the 1553 and thanks to myriad ethnic influ- Grande is a place to see and be seen. It priest of Iglesia Mayor was concerned ences over the ages, today it is renowned overlooks Parque Cespedes, the heart of the about the absence of worshippers at for its historical sites, culture (especially city where Cubans meet and enjoy some of midnight mass. He encouraged children music) and friendly inhabitants. the music that the city is famous for. A visit to go out on the streets and make noise The Fortress of San Pedro de la Roca, to the Tropicana Santiago Nightclub shows with horns and tin cans to stir people up one of its famous sights, sits high on a hill- off the glamour and liveliness of Santiago. Its and lead them to mass. In 1871 the ‘par- side just outside the city. It was constructed Carnival, held in July, is a huge celebration as it randas’ became a recognized festival and between 1638 and 1700 as protection from typifies the variety of musical influences here. part of the Christmas tradition. Visitors can pirates. In 1662, English sea robbers took learn more about this lively festival at the over Santiago for two weeks, looting and Bayamo Museum of Parrandas which opened in the destroying sections of the fortification that Founded in 1513, the colonial city

Cuba 19th century. , were then rebuilt. It has been well restored of Bayamo was the second of seven

14 AUGUST 2011 Canadian Traveller 30

Cuba Tourist Board Tourist Cuba

By Mark Sissons A Feast Havana may be physically decaying from decades of isolation and neglect, but Cuba’s feisty capital is anything but crumbling when For The it comes to nightlife, cuisine and Senses cultural attractions. Cuba

16 AUGUST 2011 Canadian Traveller 32 Street musicians, Viejo Habana Nolitours

Havana dishes up some of the Caribbean’s finest cuisine Shutterstock/Regien Paassen Shutterstock/Regien

Overwhelmingly Catholic, yet wrapped in a the rich and infamous. For the past half communist straightjacket, Havana is surpris- century, however, the US government’s Savour The Sounds ingly liberal, laid-back and unabashedly travel ban on this communist stronghold a Of A Bygone Era sensual. It also has more than its fair share mere 144 kilometres from Miami has meant To truly understand where Cuba’s famous of internationally acclaimed cultural institu- relatively few American visitors and a near music came from, head for Havana’s tions, including the National Ballet of Cuba, total absence of the consumer culture that historic music halls and clubs. Particularly House of the Américas, Foundation of New inevitably follows them. The result is a legendary is El Gato Tuerto, once a popular Latin American Film and National Folkloric unique and – for visitors, at least – refresh- hangout for famous writers and singers Dance Group. ing sense of travelling back through time to back in the decadent 50s, and now a hot But it’s this remarkably resilient Latin a bygone era. spot for bolero, featuring first-rate artists. American city’s legendary nightlife that But experiencing the real La Habana For a real nostalgia trip, check out the keeps even the most energetic visitor stimu- isn’t just about cigars, cheap run or cruising Salón 1930 ‘Compay Segundo’. Home of lated. Toss in some of the Caribbean’s finest in old American cars. Nor is it watching the the original Buena Vista Social Club, made cuisine – best sampled at unofficial restau- waves breaking on the famous boulevard El famous in Wim Wenders’ 1996 film, this rants operating in private homes called Malecon, an eight-kilometre-long seafront glamorous ballroom is still a must-see if paladares – and you have an intoxicating promenade with stunning views of the bay you’re into watching master musicians play- recipe for a truly unique and unforgettable that is transformed in the evenings into a ing with real panache. travel experience. long open-air theatre. Or catching touristy Salón 1930 is the cultural centrepiece of Prior to Fidel Castro’s 1959 revolution, dance variety shows at the Tropicana the landmark Hotel Nacional, the location Havana was one of the Caribbean’s pre- Caberet. To really experience the best of of choice for the rich and famous since miere vacation destinations for Americans, Havana’s culture and nightlife, you have to it first opened in 1930. Everyone from Cuba notorious as a gambling getaway for go to the musical and gastronomic source. Winston Churchill to Al Capone has stayed

33 Canadian Traveller AUGUST 2011 17 National Ballet of Cuba Cuba Tourist Board Tourist Cuba

here, and no doubt enjoyed a sunset rum- In Vedado, don’t miss El Gato Tuerto, an grandiose and elaborately furnished rem- infused cocktail at the hotel bar La Terraza, eccentric, intimate live music venue featur- nants of the pre-communist era. with its spectacular views of the Malecón. ing Cuban bolero. Renovated in 2010, this Among the most popular paladares are one-of-a-kind nightspot features a first-rate La Guarida, the setting for the Oscar nomi- selection of leading Cuban singers, often nated film Strawberry and Chocolate, and La Follow The Rhythms with several top names performing on the Divina Pastora, located on the other side of Of The Night same night. Miramar’s La Casa de la Música Havana Bay, which offers a spectacular city It’s hard to escape live music in Havana, is another popular favourite, partly because view. Other favourites include La Cocina de from the buskers along the cobbled streets it attracts a large number of foreign dance Lilliam, set amid a romantically lit garden, of La Habana Vieja (the Old Town) to the academy students during high season, when and Restaurante Gringo Viejo, tarted up incredibly talented musicians performing you’ll never be short of eager dance partners. to resemble a speakeasy, complete with a in small, neighbourhood bars and cafés. large movie poster of Gregory Peck, who The city’s nightlife scene is divided roughly starred as the eponymous Old Gringo. between touristic La Habana Vieja and Taste Authentic the many lively bars and clubs located in Home-Style Cuisine the more upscale districts of Vedado and Havana’s best food is served at privately- Enjoy Genuine Miramar. run restaurants, known as paladares. Most Warmth & Civility Packed with bars, tango houses and are small, family-run enterprises that serve Habaneros, as the citizens of Havana are cultural centres, Havana Vieja is a great creative variations on traditional Cuban called, are famous for their hospitality, place to hear authentic Cuban music. Many dishes like pork with Caribbean rice and ingenuity and resilience in the face of seem- establishments occupy beautifully restored beans. The more upscale among them offer ingly endless hardship. Spend even a few colonial era buildings that were collectively everything from eggplant caviar with red days among them and you can’t help but designated a UNESCO world heritage site pepper coulis and variations on red snapper be impressed by their indomitable spirit of in 1982. For bar-hopping, head for the to freshly fried chicharrones (pork rinds), optimism. Sure, there are the legions of sly main strip of Calle Obispo, where you’re baked chicken asado, barbecued lamb and hustlers and unsavoury touts found any- also likely to encounter groups of street stewed rabbit. A good selection of beer and where in the world that depends on tourist musicians, or even a carnival procession, wine is also available. income for survival. But in this economi- while salsa, son and hip-hop-inspired reg- Illegal until 1995, paladares offer a cally poor yet artistically rich time warp of a gae blares from every doorway. Or, If you refreshing alternative to state-run estab- town, the earthy authenticity of its people prefer to slip on your dancing shoes and lishments. Dining at these often fascinat- will undoubtedly remain a source of inspira- join the party, head for El Cafe Taberna, ing establishments also offers visitors tion long after the salsa bands have stopped Havana’s very first café (opened 1772), and the opportunity to experience Havana playing, the sensual dancers have stopped now a celebrated salsa school where you neighbourhoods never seen on tours and mesmerizing, the paladares have shut down Cuba can drop in any time for lessons. visit private homes, some of which are and that last mojito has been drunk. ,

18 AUGUST 2011 Canadian Traveller 34 Royal Service Combined Luxury

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Varadero Cayo Santa María La Habana

Holguín Playa Esmeralda CUBA

Santiago de Cuba

LA HABANA Meliá Cohiba I Meliá Habana SANTIAGO DE CUBA Meliá Santiago de Cuba CAYO SANTA MARÍA Meliá Buenavista VARADERO Paradisus Varadero I Paradisus Princesa del Mar HOLGUÍN Paradisus Río de Oro. Water, Water Everywhere

An island with spectacular beaches and constant warm temperatures, Cuba is the place to find fun in, on and under the water. Resorts boast all manner of water toys and activities, from pool noodles to parasailing. The sporting menu also includes windsurfing, kite boarding, sea kayking, and of course, swimming and beachcombing. Nolitours

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Cuba’s 30 dive centres provide packages • Havana: Has 72 scuba sites available Under Water for everyone, from novices to pros. Some through four international diving centres. Thousands of vibrant underwater species, also offer certification as well as courses Immersion area is more than 100 kilometres fabulous topography and unusual wrecks in marine photography, night diving and long and three kilometres wide. – you really can’t find a better place to other interests. Most centres are near hotels • Santa Lucía: An extensive coral reef just snorkel and dive than Cuba. and resorts, and have equipment for rent. off this beach resort has 34 designated dive Take the plunge and discover unpolluted points and numerous shipwrecks. waters with terrific visibility and more than • Varadero: Has more than 25 diving 500 varieties of fish, crustaceans, sponges, Main Dive Sites sites. Especially popular is the Cayo Piedras mollusks and coral. • Los Canarreos Archipelago: Has 56 del Norte underwater park, where old There are also wrecks of 17th- and designated dive sites at Puertosol Colony yachts, frigates and planes have been delib- 18th-century Spanish galleons to explore. International Scuba Centre and Cayo Largo erately sunk for recreational exploration. CARISUB, a Cuban marine archaeological del Sur. • Playa Girón: The top attraction here organization, charters salvage tours of such • Guanahacabibes Peninsula: Access Cuba is the sheer drop off the island’s sites around Cuba. to more than 50 dive sites from María La Gorda International Scuba Centre. underwater platform.

20 AUGUST 2011 Canadian Traveller 36 Diving lessons, Varadero

Kayaking, Santa Lucia Cayo Coco

• Northern coast of Holguín: More Anglers head to the fishing hotspots than 20 dive sites are located just off On The Water of Maspotón (Pinar del Río), Tesoro Lake Sailors have raved about Cuban waters Esmeralda and Guardalavaca beaches. (Península de Zapata), Rancho Hatuey and since Christopher Columbus dropped • Ancón Peninsula: This area’s two Zaza (Sancti Spíritus), La Redonda and anchor in 1492 and declared the island “the well-defined dive sites are Ancón and Cayo La Leche lakes (Ciego de Ávila), Porvenir, most beautiful land human eyes have seen”. Blanco de Casilda. Muñoz and Santa Ana (Camagüey), and Ernest Hemingway spent three decades • Santiago de Cuba: Scuba centres Viramas (Granma). Your travel agent can cruising around the Cuban cays in his fish- operate out of Baconao Park (Sigua and make the arrangements through Cuban ing boat, the Pilar, then immortalized them Bucanero) and Guamá municipality. Site of tourism agencies Cubanacán S.A., Gaviota in his novels, The Old Man and the Sea and the Caribbean’s best preserved sunken ship, S.A. and Hoteles Horizontes S.A. Every Islands in the Stream. And Fidel Castro sailed the Spanish warship Cristóbal Colón. February, Horizontes organizes an inter- the Cuban seas in his cabin cruiser, the • Jardines del Rey: In Cayo Coco and national black bass fishing tournament, Granma. The country’s coastline is marked Cayo Guillermo, coral reefs offer attractive alternating between Zaza and La Redonda by 200 sheltered bays, more than 4,000 underwater landscapes. reservoirs. , Cuba cays and islets and 588 kilometres of beach.

37 Canadian Traveller AUGUST 2011 21 Cuba Tourist Board Tourist Cuba

Where To Go • Guaniguanico Mountain Range: Nature Noted for unusual rock formations surrounding the UNESCO World Heritage site of Valle de Viñales. • Sierra del Rosario (biosphere reserve): Houses Soroa-Las Terrazas At Its and the Santo Tomás cave system. • Guanahacabibes Peninsula National Park (biosphere Sunsuncito, or bee reserve): Protected areas include La hummingbird. Finest Guabina and Mil Cumbres. • Zapata Peninsula Nature Park (biosphere reserve): Features Caleta Guamá, Ameriindian village, Nature-lovers love Cuba Buena, Playa Girón and Playa Larga; Zapata Peninsula Nature Park. Laguna del Tesoro and the Amerindian with its well-preserved village of Guamá; and La Boca croco- dile farm. ecosystems, amazing • Guamuhaya Mountain Range: array of landscapes and Home to Topes de Collantes Tourism Complex, El Nicho and Tunas, Zaza abundance of flora and and Lebrige wild animal preserves. fauna. Cuba is home to • Sierra de Cubitas: Stretches from El Paso de los Paredones to Hoyo de Bonet to Cayo Ballenatos, in Nuevitas

more than 6,700 species Shutterstock/PHB.cz of higher plants (about Bay, and the protected area in the northern Camagüey cays. Did You Know? half of which are native), • Northern Holguín: Offers tours to • Cuba is home to three of the small- scenic Guardalavaca-Estero Ciego and est species of animals in the world: the as well as 14,000 species Pinares de Mayarí National Park. sunsuncito or bee hummingbird (6 cm); of invertebrates and 650 • Sierra Maestra: Famous for its the pygmy frog or sapito (12 mm); and the historical hideouts, this area spans butterfly bat (3 cm). vertebrates – including 350 Desembarco del Granma National • The oldest species of mollusk in the Park, Pico Turquino National Park, world, the calcifolio, is found in Viñales. bird species. Santo Domingo-La Sierrita, Marea del It lives by sticking to limestone rocks and Portillo (including Las Yaguas feeds from the fungi that covers them. Take a walk through lush tropical forests, and Cilantro Rivers). • The manjuari, considered to be a where rare orchids grow; dry mountainous • Baconao National Park (bio- living fossil, is a prehistoric fish with the areas, where prehistoric cacti still live; ever- sphere reserve): Houses La Gran body of a fish and the head of a reptile and glades populated by mangrove, manatee Piedra, ruins of the island’s first French is one of the most primitive vertebrates on and flamingoes; wetlands harbouring spe- coffee plantations. the planet. cies important to biotechnology; and hum- • Baracoa: The place where • The Palma Corcho is considered to be a mocks that guard fossillized plants such as Christopher Columbus first set foot living plant fossil and it can only be found the cork palm (Microcycascalocoma). in Cuba remains relatively untouched in Pinar del Rio. And it’s all so easy to see. The country by civilization. The area is marked by • One of the largest species of flowers, the boasts more than 100 nature trails and hik- Alejandro de Humboldt National Park; solandra grandiflora, is a native of Cuba.

Cuba ing paths. Main hiking routes are well signed, Yunque de Baracoa; Toa, Miel and Its 15-20 cm yellow to white flowers are and professional guides are available. Yumurí Rivers; and Maguana beach. shaped like a chalice. ,

22 AUGUST 2011 Canadian Traveller 38 Iberostar new stars shining in Cuba. “Stars are always at the right place and time.”

Playa Iberostar Varadero, Cuba

Cuba is an exclusive destination because of its natural beauty, people, culture and history. A place that stars can not miss. Now with three new Iberostar hotels: Iberostar Parque Central, a 5 stars hotel located on city´s heart, ideal for business and relax, the perfect start to discover the mythical Havana. Iberostar Cayo Ensenachos and Iberostar Cayo Coco, both located in the north keys of the island, ideal to enjoy exuberant beaches. A luxury only within reach of the stars …Stars like you .

Iberostar Parque Central ***** Iberostar Ensenachos ***** Iberostar Cayo Coco *****

VARADERO: IBEROSTAR VARADERO • IBEROSTAR TAINOS • IBEROSTAR LAGUNA AZUL • IBEROSTAR PLAYA ALAMEDA • CAYO GUILLERMO: IBEROSTAR DAIQUIRI • CAYO COCO: IBEROSTAR CAYO COCO CAYO ENSENACHOS: IBEROSTAR ENSENACHOS • TRINIDAD: IBEROSTAR GRAND HOTEL TRINIDAD. Enjoy being a star Say Hello to Having it All.

Barceló Cayo Santa Maria Beach & Colonial Resort

Explore the cultural wonders of Cuba through a spectacular collection of four- and five-star Barceló Resorts with our hotels in Cayo Santa Maria – four in Varadero and one in Habana. Barceló Cayo Santa Maria sits on one of the world’s most stunning stretches of sand and is surrounded in colorful culture. Barceló Habana Ciudad offers a sweeping view of Quinta Avenida, Habana’s most elegant and vibrant streets. Barceló Marina Palace sits at the end of the Varadero peninsula and boasts spacious junior suites. And no matter which Barceló you choose, you’ll have access to two properties with our stay at one play at two promotion.* And you’ll always have all-inclusive luxuries and legendary hospitality at your fingertips. So say hello to having it all. Say Hello to Barceló. Barceló Santa Maria Cayo Beach & Colonial Resort

Cayo Santa Maria • Habana • Varadero

*Stay at one play at two promotion excludes Barceló Habana Ciudad and Barceló Marina Palace. Other restrictions may apply.

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