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Foodforum34-4.Pdf Vol. 34 No. 4 April 2021 Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food 4 THE JAPANESE TABLE CLOSE-UP JAPAN: Miso Soup — Japanese Feasts for 5 JAPANESE STYLE: Japanese Strawberries Special Occasions TASTY TRAVEL: Chiba Futomaki-zushi Food Fit for the Divine — by Ayako Ehara 6 MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: As Food Forum concludes its series on the special foods of Whitefi sh and Pea Shoots in Egg-Drop Dashi Japan, this fi nal installment explores the signifi cant foods Miso-Marinated Grilled Pork presented at jinja (Shinto shrines) and Buddhist temples, — which underpin religious beliefs. 8 KIKKOMAN TODAY: Online Renewal of the Kikkoman Soy Sauce Museum Japanese Feasts for Special Occasions Food Fit for the Divine From left: Twice daily, Jingu priests offer shinsen to the kami at Ise Jingu; Kanname-sai at Ise Jingu. Japanese religious beliefs are the Meiji era (1868-1912), it has refers to a species of wild ginger), characterized by a duality of become more common to offer an early summer tradition that Shinto and Buddhist traditions. raw and dried foods. takes place at both Kamigamo and Until the recent past, the typical At Japan’s sacred Ise Jingu, Shimogamo Jinja. At Kamigamo, home in Japan had two altars—a twice-daily offerings in the form shinsen offered within the honden Shinto kamidana and a Buddhist of meals have been made to the main sanctuary include steamed butsudan—and today, many still kami in the morning and evening rice, mochi rice cakes, carp, fowl do. Daily prayers are accompanied for some 1,500 years. Over one and salted sea bream, accompanied by placing water and cooked thousand matsuri are held at by chopsticks. Outside the honden rice on both the kamidana and this jinja each year, but the doors, further offerings involve butsudan.This feature introduces most signifi cant of these is the over thirty different small dishes, the food and offerings at jinja and Kanname-sai annual harvest ritual each piled high with foods such temples, which have supported in autumn. The Kanname-sai as steamed rice, salt, sake, fi sh people’s religious beliefs. shinsen comprise some thirty and fowl (see cover photo). In a small dishes whose basic elements garden facing the honden, deities Shinsen Offerings include steamed rice, water and originating from other regions are Japanese have long believed that salt, accompanied by sake and presented with shinsen of dried everything of nature—mountains, foods that represent the sea, salmon, dried squid, wakame trees, animals—is endowed with rivers, mountains and fi elds. seaweed, aonori seaweed and salt, a divine spirit, or kami, and that Among these are noshi awabi all in a vermillion lacquer box all life is sustained by such deities. dried abalone strips, considered an (p. 3 top right photo). People presented special foods as essential offering at Ise Jingu since Shinsen throughout Japan vary offerings, called shinsen, to certain ancient times. by season and locale, featuring deities, and after such rituals were Quite elaborate shinsen are distinctive ingredients and performed, it was believed that prepared for Kyoto’s Aoi-Matsuri prepared dishes. Though they by sharing and consuming these ritual (once known as Kamo-sai; aoi have evolved through the offerings, divine protection would centuries, they represent the be granted. essential elements that defi ne The rituals and ceremonies Japan’s food culture. calling upon safety from natural disasters, or to ask for an abundant Shojin-ryori Temple Food harvest or fi sh catch, are called Vegetarian temple cuisine, called matsuri, which always begin with shojin-ryori, existed in Japan during shinsen offerings to the kami. In the eighth century, and was further early times, prepared foods were developed here by priests who had usually presented, which is still traveled to China in the late twelfth the case at some jinja; but since Aoi-Matsuri century to study Zen Buddhism. 2 Aoi-Matsuri shinsen in vermillion lacquer box placed in a garden in Shinsen in photo at right can be seen in the Aoi-Matsuri record book, front of the Kamigamo written in 1870. Courtesy of National Diet Library Digital Collections Jinja honden. Among them was the Zen master The meal was served on two zen of protein. Sesame contains oil, Dogen (1200-1253), who was tray tables (p. 3 bottom photo). calcium, iron and protein, and has active in spreading the practice of The fi rst tray held steamed white been an essential ingredient in shojin zazen seated meditation as well as rice and miso soup. Placed above the cuisine long before the development disseminating the fundamentals of soup was a vinegared dish, a local of modern nutritional science. shojin-ryori. Shojin means to pursue specialty made with the stems of Each year, on the anniversary of training in Buddhist teachings; yatsugashira, a type of taro. Above the death of Dogen, a two-tray meal shojin cuisine emphasizes the use the rice was a simmered dish that is served in red-lacquered dishes on of ingredients in their entirety, included yuba soy milk skin, red-lacquered zen tray tables and wasting nothing and—in accordance shiitake mushroom, deep-fried tofu offered at his memorial sanctuary. with the Buddhist injunction against and other ingredients. In the center I was told that the dishes of this the taking of life—uses no meat, of the tray was goma-dofu (tofu of offering meal resemble those in my only vegetables. ground sesame paste and kuzu guest menu, with some variations. Dogen regarded the preparation starch), a dish in which Eiheiji places This kind of shojin fare is served not and consumption of meals as a great importance. The second tray only in temples, but also at home form of religious training, and for held sumashijiru (clear soup) and in restaurants that specialize those priests in charge, he wrote containing nama-fu (wheat gluten) in shojin-ryori. The spirit of these down specifi c rules and standards and tororo kombu (shaved dried dishes—founded in gratitude for all for both. In 1244, Dogen founded kombu softened in vinegar). To the life, wasting nothing—continues to the Eiheiji temple in present-day right of the soup was a vegetable be embodied throughout the heart of Fukui Prefecture, where his dish of eggplant and shishito Japanese cuisine. teachings are still passed on today. miniature sweet green peppers. At I had an opportunity to partake of the upper left was a shira-ae dish of a special shojin meal that is offered vegetables dressed with a mixture cover only to invited guests of Eiheiji. of mashed tofu and sesame. Placed Aoi-Matsuri shinsen offerings comprise many small upon a sheet of dishes, placed outside honden doors of Kamigamo Jinja. white shiki-gami paper was an Author’s profile auspicious treat Ayako Ehara was born in 1943 in Shimane Prefecture, and graduated from Ochanomizu University. She of braided, holds a Ph.D. in Education and taught for many deep-fried kombu. years at Tokyo Kasei Gakuin University, where she In shojin is currently professor emerita. A specialist in food culture, the history of food education and cookery cuisine, soybean science, Dr. Ehara is the author and editor of many products such as publications, including Katei Ryori no Kindai (“Modern tofu and yuba, home cooking”; 2012); Oishii Edo Gohan (“Delicious Edo-period meals”; co-author, 2011); and Nihon along with fu, are Shokumotsushi (“History of Japanese foods”; Shojin-ryori special guest menu at Eiheiji important sources co-author, 2009). FOOD FORUM April 2021 3 CLOSE-UP JAPAN Traditions and trends in Japanese food culture Miso soup with tofu and Miso soup with carrot, daikon, shimeji mushrooms, wakame seaweed sato-imo taro and abura-age deep-fried tofu Miso Soup Miso soup is an ever-popular mainstay Shops specializing in miso soup in Japanese cuisine. Although it is serve regional variations or unique basically made of only miso and Miso soup variations miso blends; soup may be ordered dashi stock, this versatile soup alone or accompanied by a bowl of rice assumes many variations that refl ect personal and pickles. Miso soup can also be refl ect longstanding personal and and family tastes purchased at supermarkets and family tastes. convenience stores, which sell a Miso is a fermented paste whose dizzying array of instant, just-add-hot- ingredients are soybeans, salt and one water soups in packets or ready-to-eat of the following types of koji kombu and small dried anchovies or cups. Pre-prepared mixes are available (fermentation starter): rice koji, barley sardines. Pre-packaged, powdered in single servings with countless koji, or soybean koji. The type and dashi is commonly available, but some options in terms of ingredients, types amount of koji used determine the types of miso contain dashi, so the of miso and dashi stocks. character of the miso. There are also soup can be made simply by dissolving Recently, homemade, individualized several varieties of dashi stock, such the paste in boiling water. misodama “miso balls” are trending. as katsuobushi dried bonito fl akes, Miso soup is commonly prepared These are prepared by blending with one to two added ingredients, together one’s preferred miso, dashi which may include preferred and other ingredients. This custom combinations of tofu, wakame miso mix is divided into single seaweed, daikon, various mushrooms portions, formed into balls, and or asari clams—topped with chopped refrigerated or frozen. To serve a Japanese long onion or scallion. At distinctive alternative to store-bought home, heartier soups with multiple instant products, hot water is poured ingredients often accompany rice, over the misodama in a soup bowl making for a satisfying and nutritional then mixed.
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