Foodforum34-4.Pdf

Vol. 34 No. 4 April 2021

Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food

4 THE JAPANESE TABLE CLOSE-UP JAPAN: Miso Soup — Japanese Feasts for 5 JAPANESE STYLE: Japanese Strawberries Special Occasions TASTY TRAVEL: Chiba Futomaki-zushi Food Fit for the Divine — by Ayako Ehara 6 MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: As Food Forum concludes its series on the special foods of Whitefi sh and Pea Shoots in Egg-Drop Dashi Japan, this fi nal installment explores the signifi cant foods Miso-Marinated Grilled Pork presented at jinja (Shinto shrines) and Buddhist temples, — which underpin religious beliefs. 8 KIKKOMAN TODAY: Online Renewal of the Kikkoman Soy Sauce Museum Japanese Feasts for Special Occasions Food Fit for the Divine

From left: Twice daily, Jingu priests offer shinsen to the kami at Ise Jingu; Kanname-sai at Ise Jingu.

Japanese religious beliefs are the Meiji era (1868-1912), it has refers to a species of wild ginger), characterized by a duality of become more common to offer an early summer tradition that Shinto and Buddhist traditions. raw and dried foods. takes place at both Kamigamo and Until the recent past, the typical At Japan’s sacred Ise Jingu, Shimogamo Jinja. At Kamigamo, home in Japan had two altars—a twice-daily offerings in the form shinsen offered within the honden Shinto kamidana and a Buddhist of meals have been made to the main sanctuary include steamed butsudan—and today, many still kami in the morning and evening rice, mochi rice cakes, carp, fowl do. Daily prayers are accompanied for some 1,500 years. Over one and salted sea bream, accompanied by placing water and cooked thousand matsuri are held at by chopsticks. Outside the honden rice on both the kamidana and this jinja each year, but the doors, further offerings involve butsudan.This feature introduces most signifi cant of these is the over thirty different small dishes, the food and offerings at jinja and Kanname-sai annual harvest ritual each piled high with foods such temples, which have supported in autumn. The Kanname-sai as steamed rice, salt, sake, fi sh people’s religious beliefs. shinsen comprise some thirty and fowl (see cover photo). In a small dishes whose basic elements garden facing the honden, deities Shinsen Offerings include steamed rice, water and originating from other regions are Japanese have long believed that salt, accompanied by sake and presented with shinsen of dried everything of nature—mountains, foods that represent the sea, salmon, dried squid, wakame trees, animals—is endowed with rivers, mountains and fi elds. seaweed, aonori seaweed and salt, a divine spirit, or kami, and that Among these are noshi awabi all in a vermillion lacquer box all life is sustained by such deities. dried abalone strips, considered an (p. 3 top right photo). People presented special foods as essential offering at Ise Jingu since Shinsen throughout Japan vary offerings, called shinsen, to certain ancient times. by season and locale, featuring deities, and after such rituals were Quite elaborate shinsen are distinctive ingredients and performed, it was believed that prepared for Kyoto’s Aoi-Matsuri prepared dishes. Though they by sharing and consuming these ritual (once known as Kamo-sai; aoi have evolved through the offerings, divine protection would centuries, they represent the be granted. essential elements that defi ne The rituals and ceremonies Japan’s food culture. calling upon safety from natural disasters, or to ask for an abundant Shojin-ryori Temple Food harvest or fi sh catch, are called Vegetarian temple cuisine, called matsuri, which always begin with shojin-ryori, existed in Japan during shinsen offerings to the kami. In the eighth century, and was further early times, prepared foods were developed here by priests who had usually presented, which is still traveled to China in the late twelfth the case at some jinja; but since Aoi-Matsuri century to study Zen Buddhism.

2 Aoi-Matsuri shinsen in vermillion lacquer box placed in a garden in Shinsen in photo at right can be seen in the Aoi-Matsuri record book, front of the Kamigamo written in 1870. Courtesy of National Diet Library Digital Collections Jinja honden.

Among them was the Zen master The meal was served on two zen of protein. Sesame contains oil, Dogen (1200-1253), who was tray tables (p. 3 bottom photo). calcium, iron and protein, and has active in spreading the practice of The fi rst tray held steamed white been an essential ingredient in shojin zazen seated meditation as well as rice and miso soup. Placed above the cuisine long before the development disseminating the fundamentals of soup was a vinegared dish, a local of modern nutritional science. shojin-ryori. Shojin means to pursue specialty made with the stems of Each year, on the anniversary of training in Buddhist teachings; yatsugashira, a type of taro. Above the death of Dogen, a two-tray meal shojin cuisine emphasizes the use the rice was a simmered dish that is served in red-lacquered dishes on of ingredients in their entirety, included yuba soy milk skin, red-lacquered zen tray tables and wasting nothing and—in accordance shiitake mushroom, deep-fried tofu offered at his memorial sanctuary. with the Buddhist injunction against and other ingredients. In the center I was told that the dishes of this the taking of life—uses no meat, of the tray was goma-dofu (tofu of offering meal resemble those in my only vegetables. ground sesame paste and kuzu guest menu, with some variations. Dogen regarded the preparation starch), a dish in which Eiheiji places This kind of shojin fare is served not and consumption of meals as a great importance. The second tray only in temples, but also at home form of religious training, and for held sumashijiru (clear soup) and in restaurants that specialize those priests in charge, he wrote containing nama-fu (wheat gluten) in shojin-ryori. The spirit of these down specifi c rules and standards and tororo kombu (shaved dried dishes—founded in gratitude for all for both. In 1244, Dogen founded kombu softened in vinegar). To the life, wasting nothing—continues to the Eiheiji temple in present-day right of the soup was a vegetable be embodied throughout the heart of Fukui Prefecture, where his dish of eggplant and shishito Japanese cuisine. teachings are still passed on today. miniature sweet green peppers. At I had an opportunity to partake of the upper left was a shira-ae dish of a special shojin meal that is offered vegetables dressed with a mixture cover only to invited guests of Eiheiji. of mashed tofu and sesame. Placed Aoi-Matsuri shinsen offerings comprise many small upon a sheet of dishes, placed outside honden doors of Kamigamo Jinja. white shiki-gami paper was an Author’s profile auspicious treat Ayako Ehara was born in 1943 in Shimane Prefecture, and graduated from Ochanomizu University. She of braided, holds a Ph.D. in Education and taught for many deep-fried kombu. years at Tokyo Kasei Gakuin University, where she In shojin is currently professor emerita. A specialist in food culture, the history of food education and cookery cuisine, soybean science, Dr. Ehara is the author and editor of many products such as publications, including Katei Ryori no Kindai (“Modern tofu and yuba, home cooking”; 2012); Oishii Edo Gohan (“Delicious Edo-period meals”; co-author, 2011); and Nihon along with fu, are Shokumotsushi (“History of Japanese foods”; Shojin-ryori special guest menu at Eiheiji important sources co-author, 2009).

FOOD FORUM April 2021 3 CLOSE-UP JAPAN Traditions and trends in Japanese food culture

Miso soup with tofu and Miso soup with carrot, daikon, shimeji mushrooms, wakame seaweed sato-imo taro and abura-age deep-fried tofu

Miso Soup

Miso soup is an ever-popular mainstay Shops specializing in miso soup in Japanese cuisine. Although it is serve regional variations or unique basically made of only miso and Miso soup variations miso blends; soup may be ordered dashi stock, this versatile soup alone or accompanied by a bowl of rice assumes many variations that refl ect personal and pickles. Miso soup can also be refl ect longstanding personal and and family tastes purchased at supermarkets and family tastes. convenience stores, which sell a Miso is a fermented paste whose dizzying array of instant, just-add-hot- ingredients are soybeans, salt and one water soups in packets or ready-to-eat of the following types of koji kombu and small dried anchovies or cups. Pre-prepared mixes are available (fermentation starter): rice koji, barley sardines. Pre-packaged, powdered in single servings with countless koji, or soybean koji. The type and dashi is commonly available, but some options in terms of ingredients, types amount of koji used determine the types of miso contain dashi, so the of miso and dashi stocks. character of the miso. There are also soup can be made simply by dissolving Recently, homemade, individualized several varieties of dashi stock, such the paste in boiling water. misodama “miso balls” are trending. as katsuobushi dried bonito fl akes, Miso soup is commonly prepared These are prepared by blending with one to two added ingredients, together one’s preferred miso, dashi which may include preferred and other ingredients. This custom combinations of tofu, wakame miso mix is divided into single seaweed, daikon, various mushrooms portions, formed into balls, and or asari clams—topped with chopped refrigerated or frozen. To serve a Japanese long onion or scallion. At distinctive alternative to store-bought home, heartier soups with multiple instant products, hot water is poured ingredients often accompany rice, over the misodama in a soup bowl making for a satisfying and nutritional then mixed. Misodama are perfect for a meal. Miso soup recipe books offer quick breakfast, and easy to carry to Misodama inspiration for home cooks. the offi ce for lunch.

4 JAPANESE STYLE Perspectives on Japanese cuisine

Japanese Strawberries Strawberry-picking in a greenhouse

Strawberries were fi rst introduced to strawberry, created in 1996. Another Many greenhouses allow people Japan in the 1830s by the Dutch. By famous strawberry is the juicy to enjoy strawberry-picking, so the 1990s, strawberry consumption Amaou from Fukuoka Prefecture, they can savor the berries fresh had become widespread, and today developed in 2005. off the vine. They are also enjoyed nearly 300 varieties of Japanese A small but lucrative luxury market in sweets such as ichigo daifuku, strawberries have been developed, offers rare varieties, including a surprising wagashi Japanese characterized by their uniform size enormous berries as large as 80 grams confectionery with a modern and sweet fl esh. Tochigi Prefecture, (3 oz.), and Japan’s unique white twist. In its center is a whole dubbed the “Strawberry Kingdom,” strawberries. Most strawberries are strawberry, surrounded by sweet is one of Japan’s largest producers, grown in greenhouses, with peak azuki red bean paste, covered by best-known for its Tochiotome season falling from December to May. soft mochi.

Tochiotome strawberries Ichigo daifuku

TASTY TRAVEL Chiba Futomaki-zushi

Futomaki-zushi, literally “thick sushi roll,” is a specialty in the Boso region of Chiba Prefecture. Also called matsuri-zushi, it is served at Chiba celebratory feasts and on special occasions. Seemingly an ordinary sushi roll, when futomaki- zushi is sliced, intricate, delightful imagery is revealed: fl owers, animals and lucky symbols appear like magic. Such complex designs are made by combining multiple thin sushi rolls and oblong strips of vegetables and omelet as fi llings. Elaborate motifs can expand the diameter of a futomaki to as much as 5-10 cm, or 2-4 inches. Using the region’s local seafood and farm produce, new futomaki designs and techniques Futomaki-zushi wrapped in nori and omelet (top right) continue to evolve.

FOOD FORUM April 2021 5 Mitsuba Japanese wild parsley is used in authentic Japanese WHITEFISH AND PEA SHOOTS dishes for its refreshing fragrance and delicate texture. As IN EGG-DROP DASHI mitsuba is not readily available outside Japan, this recipe substitutes aromatic lemon zest, with pea shoots for texture.

1Sprinkle salt lightly on both sides of the fi llet and place in refrigerator for 20 minutes.

Rinse the fi llet gently with water and pat dry with a paper towel. Cut into slices 27-8 mm / 0.3 in. thick. Pea shoots Cut the pea shoots in half. Serves 2-3 204 kcal Protein 17.0 g Fat 10.5 g 3 (per serving) • 150 g / 5.3 oz. whitefish fillet, In a non-stick frying pan, mix dashi stock, soy sauce and mirin and bring to a boil; deboned and skin removed* turn to medium heat and add the fi sh. When the fi sh is nearly cooked, scatter the • 50-60 g / 2 oz. pea shoots 4 • 500 ml / 2 C dashi stock pea shoots over the entire pan. • 1 T + 2 t Kikkoman Light Color Soy Sauce** • 1 T + 1 t Kikkoman Manjo Mirin Bring to a second boil, pour in the beaten eggs to cover entirely. When the liquid • 3 eggs, beaten 5along the rim of the pan begins to run clear and eggs are slightly set, turn off heat, • Lemon or citrus zest, wax- and preservative-free cover and allow to sit for about two minutes, until eggs are set. 6Serve in soup bowls, topped with grated lemon zest. * Alternatively, use sea bream, flounder or cod. ** May substitute 2 t Kikkoman Soy Sauce and 3/5 t salt. Recipe by Michiko Yamamoto 1 C (U.S. cup) = approx. 240 ml; 1 T = 15 ml; 1 t = 5 ml

6 MISO-MARINATED GRILLED PORK

1Mix the ingredients for the miso marinade well, and divide the mixture into thirds. With a knife, make a few small slits around the edges of each pork chop to prevent 2the meat from curling up during grilling. Pork chop In a lidded container spread out one third of the marinade evenly. Lay a sheet of cheesecloth over the marinade, and on this, place the pork chops. Serves 4 3 284 kcal Protein 19.9 g Fat 19.3 g (per serving) Place the second sheet of cheesecloth on the meat, and cover 4evenly with another third of the marinade (see photo). Secure • 4 pork loin or tenderloin chops, the lid and allow to chill in refrigerator for 8 to 10 hours. The 2 cm / 0.8 in. thick* remaining third of the marinade should be refrigerated for later Miso marinade use to marinate the vegetables in Step 7. • 300 g / 1 C miso • 1 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce A few hours before grilling the chops, prepare the vegetables for marinating. Cut • 4 T Kikkoman Manjo Mirin the carrot and celery into sticks, 1 cm / 0.4 in. wide and 4 cm / 1.5 in. long. Boil the • 3 T granulated sugar 5 • 1 knob ginger, cut into julienned carrot cubes to desired texture and drain; set all aside. strips Sprinkle and rub okra with 1/2 t salt. Parboil and drain, remove stems; set aside. • 2 sheets of cheesecloth or gauze** • 1 carrot 6 • 1 stalk celery • 4 okra pods Marinate the vegetables by gently mixing them with the last of the marinade; cover and 7place in the refrigerator for about two hours. When time, remove the vegetables, rinse off marinade with water and pat dry with a paper towel; set aside until ready to serve. 8Remove meat from the marinade and grill. Serve with the vegetables on the side. * Beef or chicken are equally delicious alternatives. ** Cheesecloth prevents miso from sticking to the meat. If any miso remains on the meat, it will char during grilling.

Recipe by Kikkoman Corporation

FOOD FORUM April 2021 7 Online Renewal of the Kikkoman Soy Sauce Museum

Visuals from the Kikkoman Soy Sauce Museum www.kikkoman.com/en/shokuiku/soysaucemuseum/index_en.html

The Kikkoman global website has with it for the fi rst time. The online into the traditional Japanese launched a new upgraded version of its Kikkoman Soy Sauce Museum brewing method honjozo through online Kikkoman Soy Sauce Museum. website may be accessed in English, photos and videos. The third Throughout its 350-year-long simplifi ed and traditional Chinese, exhibition, “Features of Kikkoman history, Kikkoman Soy Sauce has Spanish and Portuguese. Soy Sauce,” describes the unique played an essential role in Japanese The new Museum website characteristics of honjozo-brewed food culture. Today, Kikkoman Soy builds on its previous version, and Kikkoman Soy Sauce; the fourth Sauce is distributed to over one hundred now features more compelling, exhibition, “Seasoning Effects,” countries around the world. Recognized eye-catching graphics and visuals suggests different ways of using as an all-purpose seasoning, Kikkoman that convey a more comprehensive Kikkoman Soy Sauce while Soy Sauce is used not only in Japanese perspective on the traditional preparing ingredients, during cuisine; it has become fundamental to notion of “museum” to attract cooking, and as the fi nishing a diverse range of international and stimulate visitor curiosity. touch to enhance a dish and create cuisines and complements various Kikkoman’s online Museum includes new levels of fl avor. Finally, the ingredients worldwide. fi ve sections, or “Exhibitions”: the Museum site features the exhibition, Through the online Kikkoman fi rst is titled “History of Kikkoman “What’s the Difference?” Here, Soy Sauce Museum, our company Soy Sauce,” which explains the attractive and easy to understand hopes to enhance global audience origins of soy sauce and offers an visuals compare naturally brewed awareness of our soy sauce overview of brewing methods and Kikkoman Soy Sauce with other soy by introducing its history and global expansion, illustrated through sauces produced using different raw characteristics. The Museum historical visuals that include materials and production methods. targets not only those familiar with a gallery of vintage Kikkoman Kikkoman continues to promote Kikkoman Soy Sauce, but those Soy Sauce labels; the second is the international exchange of food who may be acquainting themselves “Making Soy Sauce,” which delves culture by sharing new ways of incorporating soy sauce into cuisines enjoyed around the world. Our aim is to create exciting new fl avor experiences while sharing information about Japanese food culture.

Check out the updated Kikkoman Soy Sauce Museum

FOOD FORUM is a quarterly newsletter published by Kikkoman Corporation, International Operations Division, 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8428, Japan / Production: Cosmo Public Relations Corporation / Editor: Marybeth Stock / Proofreader: Nora Wynne Koiwai / Special Advisors: Isao Kumakura, Michiko Yamamoto/Contributor: Ayako Ehara / Art Director: Eiko Nishida / Photo Credits: Kamigamo Jinja (p. 1, p. 2 bottom, p. 3 top right) / Ise Jingu (p. 2 top left, top right) / Ayako Ehara (p. 3 bottom) / PIXTA (p. 4 top left, p. 5 top, middle right) / Yoshitaka Matsumoto (p. 4 top right, bottom, pp. 6-7) / amanaimages (p. 5 middle left, bottom) / Special thanks to Kamigamo Jinja, Ise Jingu, Eiheiji / Printing: Otowa Printing ©2021 by Kikkoman Corporation. All rights reserved. Requests to reprint articles or excerpts should be sent to the publisher. http://www.kikkoman.com/ 8