WALLED CITIES and So to Bed, Which Is a Bit of a Palaver

THE WEEKEND AUSTRALIAN, AUGUST 1-2, 2020 theaustralian.com.au/travel TRAVEL + INDULGENCE 5

full moon rising through the trees, bathing our rocky citadel in an eerie light. FAB FOUR WALLED CITIES And so to bed, which is a bit of a palaver. My hubby and I are bedecked in multiple lay- ers, beanies, mittens and scarves, and squeez- History is tangible in these fortified enclaves ing into the swag is a little like threading a needle with rope. Eventually we settle and are LINDY ALEXANDER perfectly snug, but there will be no midnight excursions to the loo. At dawn a shimmering, cardinal red light lightly touches the Elders, just the tip of the jagged hills at first but spreading slowly to light the entire range. All is still, not a bird stirs, although we see evidence of kangaroos and wild goats having passed through camp at some point. The sun plays across red-dirt plains but the Pound has its own weather sys- tem, spilling cloud like water over the ramparts. A “cloud waterfall”, Kym says, as he whips up bacon and egg sarnies (breakfast of cham- pions). Several more cuppas later we spy a little yellow dot skimming across the plains. Here comes Sam to whisk us back to HQ for a spot of duvet and bath-augmented luxury in CHRISTINE McCABE an eco-villa. Rawnsley Park Station, I first visited Rawnsley 14 years ago when left; heli-camping fire Tony and Julie unveiled the first of their eight and swag, above and one and two-bedroom villas, and they still below; sunset tour and look as new as the day they opened. Perched CARCASSONNE, FRANCE important trading place for the Romans, villa interior, below left on a cypress-clad knoll affording fantastic vis- Among the vineyards and farmland of who built a fort here in the 3rd century. The tas onto Rawnsley Bluff in one direction, the southern France, the country’s second- city was variously taken over by the Visi- Elder Range in the other, the villas are of a most-visited tourist site perches on a rocky goths, the Saracens and the Franks before PICTURES: SATC strawbale and rendered construction (offer- hilltop. Said to be the inspiration behind the Trencavel dynasty took control in the ing excellent thermal insulation) with elegant Walt Disney’s film The Sleeping Beauty, 11th century. Within the double ramparts timber detailing. Carcassonne features drawbridges, tall tur- are the enormous castle (Chateau Comtal) Our villa, Saltbush, provides a view of rets, medieval cobbled streets and bustling and the Basilica of St Nazaire, but what the Elder Range from bed; at night we can marketplaces. The jagged peaks of the Pyr- would a walled city be without a museum count the stars through a retractable ceiling. enees are visible on a clear day, and it’s the dedicated to inquisition and torture? Be The rooms are toasty warm, spacious and in- location, between the Mediterranean and warned; it’s not for the faint-hearted; credibly comfortable and after a night in the the Basque Atlantic, that made it such an au.france.fr/en. swag, that deep bathtub, fluffy towels and robes to hand, looks most inviting. The kitch- en comes with very generous “continental QUEBEC CITY, CANADA breakfast” provisions: bread, croissants, cere- As the sky darkens and lights blink on in als, juice, eggs, fruit. A welcome bottle of the magnificent towers and turrets of Fair- Clare Valley wine is just the ticket to accom- mont Le Chateau Frontenac, Quebec City pany a barbie on the veranda, but if you can’t takes on a fairytale quality. The grand be bothered cooking, book dinner in the hotel, which overlooks the Saint Lawrence jazzed-up woolshed. The kangaroo and lamb River, is one of many glorious attractions in are really good. the fortified hub. The walls were initially The villas serve as a luxury base for built in the 1690s by the French. The 4.6km Rawnsley’s guided walks (and share a swim- walk along the fortifications, either on top ming pool with knockout views) but they’re or via an adjacent path, takes you past can- just as suitable for a lazy weekend, or as I dis- nons, barracks, a military prison and for- farewell to Sam as he flies back to the station, cover, a spot of armchair twitching. Lying on tresses. Sitting atop Cape Diamond is the his little helicopter appearing no larger than a the sofa reading, I’m constantly distracted by British-built Citadel, which is still an active city, wander down to the lively cobblestone mosquito against the vast plains. variegated fairy-wrens and red cap robins flit- garrison of the French-speaking Royal streets where trendy cafes, restaurants, bars The fire is stoked, dinner heated — a de- ting among the trees, a pair of wedge-tailed 22nd Regiment. Once you’ve looped the and boutiques await; quebec-cite.com/en. licious lamb curry pre-prepared by chefs back eagles soaring above the ridge and finally a at the station — and while we lounge lazily pair of muscle-bound Euros (wallaroos) drinking in the view, poor Kym is a blur of bounding by. Over the years, Rawnsley has sparkling harbours in the Mediterranean. activity, to-ing and fro-ing with cheese board mastered the art of going bush and the comp- The city was built by the Knights of St John and decadent chocolate puddings, washing lementary charms of swag and villa. Even if in the mid-1500s as a stronghold to defend dishes and setting the kettle on the embers for you’ve a serious allergy to camping you’d be Christendom and preserve its culture. It a cuppa. crazy not to jump aboard Sam’s yellow chop- seems the strategy succeeded; the majority Darkness brings tales of the Pound tall and per for a seat at a staggering sunset lightshow of Maltese people still identify as Christian true, of lost children and fallen climbers, of 600 million years in the planning. and in 2018 Valletta was designated wily feral goats and stealthy dingoes. Of European Capital of Culture. The best way drought and abandoned runs. And the light Christine McCabe was a guest of Rawnsley to get around is on foot, starting at the city show isn’t over yet. Here come the stars and a Park Station. gate before taking in Renzo Piano’s controversial parliament building, boutiques on Republic Street and St John’s Cathedral before visiting 16th-century ally opposite, on the corner of Iceley Street, VALLETTA, MALTA palace Casa Rocca Piccola. There are Kelly and Paolo Picarazzi run the delightful Malta may be the smallest nation in the spectacular views from the Upper Barrakka IN THE KNOW new Antica Australis restaurant in a cottage- European Union, but its honey-hued Gardens, where a rousing salute from the style former haberdashery. capital city, Valletta, is a knockout. It sits on battery of cannons takes place at noon; Carcoar is 7km from Blayney, off the Mid- Paolo is from the central Italian region of the Sciberras Peninsula, between two visitmalta.com/en/valletta. Western Highway (A43), and equidistant Ciociaria and bases his cuisine on the relaxed between Bathurst and Orange. Driving locanda style of authentic home cooking. A time from Sydney is about 3 ½ hours. crespelle with Gorgonzola, prosciutto and INTRAMUROS, THE PHILIPPINES Carcoar is the third-oldest settlement, house-made fig and ginger jam starts pro- It seems incongruous to find a European- after Bathurst and Wellington, west of the ceedings on the winter menu and the well- style walled city in the centre of Manila, but Blue Mountains. paced four-course meal is a triumph of from 1571 Intramuros (meaning “within the n visitnsw.com regional produce and cooking straight from walls” in Latin) was the heart of Spanish n tomolly.com.au the heart. Kelly also runs, and hosts, Silver occupation in The Philippines until 1898. n anticacarcoar.com Compass Tours; the boutique excursions are Built on the remains of a Malay settlement n silvercompasstours.com.au designed around food and wine of the central at the mouth of the Pasig River, Intramuros west and there are upcoming day trips plus became Spain’s political and military base packages planned for 2021. So, there’s an- in Asia. The city was heavily damaged in runs Tomolly, an interiors store in a historic other reason to revisit this surprise-package World War II, but one of the most striking terrace on Belubula Street, and lives nearby in of a place. I’ll make my return in cool weather buildings to survive was San Agustin a restored flour mill. Across a flow of rooms, and fossick at Tomolly for a bobble beanie church. Built between 1587 and 1606, the horse-drawn carriages called kalesa, including a studio space for regular work- hand-knitted by a local Nonna before joining baroque-style landmark is a UNESCO waiting to take travellers to Intramuros’s shops in crafts such as leather-making and Kelly on a gastronomic safari. Can’t wait. World Heritage site and the stunning other famous sites such as Fort Santiago, floral art, Tomolly is a haven of homewares, trompe l’oeil frescoes on the vaulted ceiling the public square of Plaza de Roma and the candles, jewellery, local knits, linens and Susan Kurosawa was a guest of Destination are worth the visit alone. Outside the city’s restored Ayuntamiento or city hall; collectables in a soft organic palette. Diagon- NSW. eight gates you’ll find brightly coloured intramuros.gov.ph.

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