Buenos Días, Buenos Aires!

INTERNATIONAL INSIDER’S BuenosBUENOS AIRES!días, Elegant, sophisticated and a foodie’s Know this dream destination, Buenos Aires has it all. GUIDE There’s little wonder it’s known as the Paris of the southern hemisphereBY NICK DALL GETTING THERE SAA flies daily from Joburg to São Paulo, which is a three-hour flight from Buenos Aires. MOVING AROUND The historic Subte (underground) is quite an experience. Uber is ome to about Shabby chic and reminiscent also very affordable here. 14 million porteños, Buenos Aires of the Mediterranean, it’s a SAFETY warrants weeks of exploration. favourite among Bohemians Beware of pickpockets, From the city’s splendid signature and yuppies. It’s a great place especially in La Boca. neoclassical architecture and most to watch tango in the streets, magnificent boulevards, to its browse for antiques and eat LANGUAGE infectious cafe culture and thriving traditional Argentine parrillada, Spanish is Argentina’s colourful tango scene, there’s a or mixed grill. For the best steak de facto official language, little something for everyone. And (and other bits of cow) in town, but (broken) English is that’s before we’ve even mentioned look no further than La Brigada: widely spoken. the hub’s throbbing nightlife, world- they’re not lying when they say WEATHER class steaks, legendary football you can cut the meat with your pedigree and pristine river delta. spoon. San Telmo is also home Buenos Aires’s weather The best part? Your rands will to some of the best milongas or is much like Durban’s. actually go somewhere here… tango houses in town (make sure TIME ZONE to catch a show), while visiting CHARM YOUR SOCKS OFF It is five hours behind fashionistas will be taken by South Africa. For sheer chocolate-box charm the funky design co-ops and it’s difficult to beat San Telmo. vintage shops. NOVEMBER 2016 47 INTERNATIONAL DOWN AND DIRTY CULTURE VULTURES WHERE The port-side hood of La Boca is the beating heart of the Argentine Most of the biggest sights are found in working class. La Boca is home to world-famous football team Boca the Microcentro, otherwise known as Juniors – go on one of the great guided tours of their La Bombonera Downtown. You can’t miss the obelisk to stay stadium, and visit the fascinating museum. Step your experience up a that towers high above the Plaza de la Budget notch by watching a live game, especially a treat if Boca are playing República, and it’s only a stone’s throw GARDEN HOUSE HOSTEL El Clásico – against arch rivals River Plate. from the Teatro Colón, one of the best Well-located, vibey, clean and has La Boca isn’t only about football though: El Caminito del Rey is a opera houses in the world. Guided tours dorm rooms, doubles and triples. colourfully painted street with a carnival atmosphere, which makes it are fascinating (the labyrinth of change Basic breakfast included. one of the most touristy places in the city. Instead of wasting your cash rooms and costume stores has to be seen on overpriced curios, we’d advise taking the time to snap some selfies: to be believed) and it’s often possible to gardenhouseba.com.ar the garish backdrop will look decidedly exotic in a frame on your mantel. get tickets for a performance. Moderate If the roughly R240 price tag for the LEMON APARTMENTS Teatro Colón tour is too steep, why not Stylish self-catering apartments head on over to the Casa Rosada, the in the heart of San Telmo. president’s official residence and the lemonapartments.com.ar/en setting for that scene in the film Evita. Tours are 100% gratis, but they are only Luxury ALVEAR PALACE HOTEL offered on Saturdays and Sundays. Afterwards, we’d recommend popping An undisputed symbol of the into Cafe Tortoni for coffee and a medialuna Belle Époque, and has been at (croissant). Established in 1858, it’s a real the forefront of Buenos Aires’ cultural scene since 1932. BEER AND BURGER INDEX alvearpalace.com 1 RAND = 1.05 PESO ABOVE: Tuck into a medialuna and coffee at the long-standing Cafe Tortoni; splurge a little and stay at Alvear Palace Hotel PINT OF BEER IN A PUB R60 OPPOSITE PAGE: The iconic obelisk on the Plaza de la República; kids playing football in La Boco; the colourful lanes of El Caminito del Rey BIG MAC MEAL R100 Buenos Aires institution, having there’s always a crowd of people in ride from the Microcentro. The hop- been frequented by famous writers, front of Evita Péron’s mausoleum. on hop-off Tren de la Costa is geared politicians and musicians for more While you’re in the area, don’t miss towards tourists: not only are the than a century. The waiters still wear the trendy enclaves of Palermo Soho carriages quaint and atmospheric, bow ties and the decor is original. (a chic Bohemian hood great for cafes but the stations themselves house If shopping is more your thing, head and shopping), Palermo Hollywood (a shops, restaurants and museums. over to Florida Street for everything de rigueur pocket packed with trendy Two of my favourite stops on the leather – just be prepared to hold bars and restaurants) and Palermo route are Anchorena (great for a your ground with the sometimes Viejo (the heart of BA’s flourishing walk on the banks of the Río de la pushy shop assistants. fashion scene and home to the stylish Plata) and San Isidro, one of the flagship boutiques of local designers). city’s wealthiest suburbs and home GLAM IT UP On the other side of the coin, ultra- to an impressive cathedral, stately Palermo and Recoleta are Buenos modern Puerto Madero is Buenos stone houses, manicured gardens Aires’ equivalent of the leafy suburbs. Aires’ answer to Sandton. It’s located and a fascinating rugby museum. Stately buildings and wide streets on the banks of the Río de la Plata If Buenos Aires is South America’s make for a decidedly Parisian feel, and is home to some of the city’s answer to Paris, then Tigre is its which is topped off by Bosques de flashiest bars and restaurants. Eating Venice. Here, the Paraná River forms Palermo (Palermo Park): a delightful and drinking in Puerto Madero may a tangled web of streams, inlets and green lung, where you can rent a set you back a pretty penny, but a forested islands before emptying itself pedalo for next to nothing. Meanwhile, relaxing walk on the promenade into the ocean. Kids get to school on the astounding La Recoleta Cemetery is absolutely mahala. ferries, post is transported by boat, is so enormous it even has a map and a floating greengrocer moves from with street names and numbers! NATURAL HIGH door to door. A day spent exploring Most people are only interested in The port town of Tigre and the this paradise will teleport you from PHOTOGRAPHY: GALLO/GETTYIMAGES/THINKSTOCK PHOTOGRAPHY: one address though, which is why surrounding Paraná Delta are a train the urban maelstrom in a heartbeat. NOVEMBER 2016 49.

Load more