Buenos Aires

DESTINATION AXIMOLEN DIPIDES TRUPIENIMUS QUIA QUI SAE NECUST Buenos días, REPELENTION The story of Evita Buenos Aires Evita Perón is a global icon, due in part to the Andrew Lloyd Webber EXPLORE A CITY THAT EXPRESSES musical Evita, and the ITSELF THROUGH LIVELY MUSIC, Hollywood musical of Santiago URUGUAY PASSIONATE DANCING AND DEEPLY the same name starring Buenos Aires Madonna as Evita. Montevideo INGRAINED CULTURE ARGENTINA Evita grew up in the By Nick Dall poorest part of a village in rural Argentina, the illegitimate daughter of PACIFIC a wealthy landowner and OCEAN a local peasant woman. At the age of 15, she moved to Buenos Aires to pursue a career in acting. What she lacked in talent, she made up for with her good looks CHILE ATLANTIC OCEAN and determination. She achieved great success as a radio actress, and had a string of increas- ingly important lovers. In 1944, she met Juan Perón, an army colonel and government minister. A year later, they married, and Perón was elected president of Argentina in 1946. Evita was an elegant, stylish and well-dressed uenos Aires is an enormous city with around champion of the poor. 2.8 million inhabitants. You could spend a At the age of 33, she month here and feel like you hardly know died of uterine cancer. the place. But divide your time well, visiting Her career may have Bdifferent neighbourhoods, exploring the city’s sights, been brief, but there’s and you can experience the lively spirit this city has no doubt her memory still captivates a nation. to offer. Her remains rest in San Telmo is probably the most charming of these a mausoleum in the neighbourhoods. Shabby-chic and redolent of the breathtaking La Recoleta Mediterranean, it’s a favourite among both hipsters Cemetery – a place of and Bohemians. It’s a great place to watch tango in pilgrimage for devout Evita fans. the streets, browse for antiques and eat traditional Another definite Argentine parrillada, or mixed grill. For the best steak SEE IMPROMPTU TANGO PERFORMANCES must-see is the Evita (and other cuts of beef) in town, look no further than Museum (Lafinur 2988), IN THE SAN TELMO DISTRICT La Brigada (Estados Unidos 465) – you can cut the which is housed in meat with a spoon. And after dinner, head over to LEFT THE HISTORICAL CASA ROSADA a glamorous colonial building and features El Viejo Almacén (Balcarce 799) for their spectacular fresh, modern displays. tango show – booking is essential. 46 JANUARY 2014 DESTINATION Need to know WEATHER Summers are hot and humid with rain. Winters are mild. SAFETY Pickpockets and bag-snatchers abound, especially in La Boca. GETTING THERE SAA flies daily to Buenos Aires from Joburg. GETTING AROUND The subte (underground) has recently had its classic wooden trains replaced with new trains. Taxis are also a popular way of getting around. MONEY R1.67 will get you one Argentine Peso. LANGUAGE Spanish CLOCKWISE, the city’s flashiest bars, is Argentina’s official FROM ABOVE cafes and restaurants. language, but (broken) But perhaps the most English is widely spoken. TANGO LOUNGE AT THE FAENA HOTEL ostentatious location of ACCOMMODATION all is Faena Hotel (www. Good budget options are COLOURFUL LA BOCA NEIGHBOURHOOD faena.com), which has Most of the biggest sights are downtown. You can’t in 1858, the cafe retains much of its old-fashioned Luba Tango Guest House several restaurants and (www.lubatangohouse. PEDALOS AT A PARK miss the obelisk that towers above the charm; the waiters still wear bow ties and the decor bars, and the city’s most Plaza de la com.ar, rates from $55 IN PALERMO República, and it’s only a stone’s throw away from is almost entirely original. exclusive tango show. pps per night) and Livian OUTDOOR ASADO the Teatro Colón (www.teatrocolon.org.ar), one of Palermo and Recoleta are the leafy suburbs of Guest House (www.livian Nowhere is more (BARBECUE) SELLER the greatest opera houses in the world. Guided tours Buenos Aires. Stately buildings and wide streets make guesthouse.com, rates representative of the are fascinating – the labyrinth of changing rooms for a decidedly Parisian feel, which is topped off by from $90 per room DOWNTOWN’s oBELISK working classes than and costume stores has to be seen to be believed Palermo’s Parque Tres de Febrero, a delightful green per night). ON THE PLAZA DE LA La Boca. – and it’s often possible to get tickets for a perfor- lung, where you can rent a pedalo. Meanwhile, the REPÚBLICA This neighbou rhood mance. Consult their website for schedules. astounding La Recoleta Cemetery, where you can is home to the world- Another downtown must-see is the Casa Rosada, see the tombs of presidents, artists, poets, and Eva famous football team the president’s official residence and the setting for Perón, was voted one of the world’s most beautiful. Boca Juniors. Guided the famous balcony scene in the film Evita. Afterwards, All glass and stainless steel, Puerto Madero is tours of La Bombonera pop into Café Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo 825) for Buenos Aires’ answer to Sandton. It’s located on the stadium (their home turf) coffee and a medialuna (a croissant). Established banks of the Río de la Plata and is home to some of are great. Even better is attending a live game, ES especially when Boca Shop till you drop AG are playing their rivals IM Y River Plate. Buenos Aires is simply a throughout the city. local Malbec from Winery selling anything from art ES La Boca isn’t only shopper’s paradise, if you You will also find many (www.winery.com.ar) and and books to cameras know what to look for. leather merchants where Lo de Joaquin Alberdi (www. and chandeliers. about soccer though: Leather is big business, you can have your jacket lodejoaquinalberdi. There’s a popular COURTES, El Caminito is a colourful and whether you’re after specially tailored. com) are worth antiques market at AG street with a fun carnival IM a jacket, a pair of boots, Argentina produces trying. Plaza Dorrego (also TTY atmos phere, and one of E a purse, or a wallet, you some amazing wines, and The neigh- in San Telmo) G / the most touristy places are bound to find it. is particularly famous for bourhood of on Sundays, O LL in the city. For quality items at its Malbec, a rich, robust San Telmo with loads of GA Whether you shop till affordable prices, head red and the most perfect is home to street tango HY: HY: P you drop, learn to tango for Prüne (www.prune. partner to parrillada. countless performances com.ar), which has There are plenty of wine antique – and a lively or watch a game, you’ll a couple of outlets shops in the capital. The shops, atmosphere. definitely fall in love with PHOTOGRA the Paris of the South. JANUARY 2014 49.

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