Canberra is recognised as one of the world’s most successful examples of planned city development. In sixty years it has grown from a collection of surveyors’ tents to ’s largest inland city. Because it has developed so rapidly most of ’s 200,000 citizens were born elsewhere. This book attempts to capture some aspects of life in Canberra — the buildings, the seasons, people at work and play, the countryside — so that residents of the national capital can give an impression of its moods and lifestyle to relatives and friends far away.

Designed by ANU Graphic Design/ Stephen Cole Canberra is recognised as one of the world’s most successful examples of planned city development. In sixty years it has grown from a collection of surveyors’ tents to Australia’s largest inland city. Because it has developed so rapidly most of Canberra’s 200,000 citizens were born elsewhere. This book attempts to capture some aspects of life in Canberra — the buildings, the seasons, people at work and play, the countryside — so that residents of the national capital can give an impression of its moods and lifestyle to relatives and friends far away.

Designed by ANU Graphic Design/ Stephen Cole This book was published by ANU Press between 1965–1991. This republication is part of the digitisation project being carried out by Scholarly Information Services/Library and ANU Press. This project aims to make past scholarly works published by The Australian National University available to a global audience under its open-access policy.

First published in Australia 1978 Printed in Singapore for the Australian National University Press, Canberra by Toppan Printing Co., Singapore ® The Australian National University 1978 This book is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purpose of private study, research, criticism, or review, as permitted under the Copyright Act, no part may be reproduced by any process without written permission. Inquiries should be made to the publisher. National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry Canberra ISBN 0 7081 1296 X 1. Canberra — Description. I. Gibson, George, ed. 919.4’7[1] United Kingdom, Europe, Middle East, and Africa: Eurospan Ltd, 3 Henrietta St, London WC2E 8LU, England North America: Books Australia, Norwalk, Conn., USA Southeast Asia: Angus & Robertson (S.E. Asia) Pty Ltd, Singapore Japan: United Publishers Services Ltd, Tokyo Designed by ANU Graphic Design, Stephen Cole CANBERRA George Gibson, Editor

Canberra without its lake would be like above, graces the southern shore, its white London without the Thames — not thirsty, marble columns lending the building an but with its individuality sadly diluted. Lake aspect of serenity in keeping with its Burley Griffin — named after the Chicago function. Facing the library, the Captain Cook architect who in 1911 won an international Memorial water jet gushes skyward from the competition for the design of Australia’s centre of the lake, and further to the east the capital — provides the setting for some of the carillon towers over little , top city’s most unusual, but characteristic, fea­ right. Other islands, right, are Springbank, a tures. Looking rather like a modern-day favoured picnic spot, and Spinnaker. Parthenon, the National Library of Australia,

One of the largest free-standing bell-towers in the world, the carillon was a gift from the British government to the Australian people to mark the 50th anniversary of Canberra on 12 March 1963. Its 53 bells range in weight from less than 7 kg to more than 6 tonnes, and were cast by John Taylor and Sons, of Loughborough, England, specialists in this craft for centuries. Right: Getting ready for a regatta at , in Lotus Bay. As recently as 1963 most of the area covered by was a shallow valley watered only by the . changed the picture unbeliev­ ably: Australia’s largest inland city found itself surrounding 35 km of lakeshore. Trees, lawns, gardens and picnic areas were estab­ lished and the lake now fills an important ornamental and recreational role. Regular cruises from the terminal at Acton, left, make it a pleasant way to tour the sights as well. This huge neo-Byzantine edifice at the foot of between the arcaded galleries bearing the Mt Ainslie houses one of the world’s most Roll of Honour stands the domed of extensive and skilfully presented military Memory, with its impressive statue, stained- museums. Completed in 1971, the Australian glass windows and mosaic-covered walls; a War Memorial draws nearly three-quarters of shrine of remembrance for the 102,000 men a million visitors a year, many returning and women who died serving Australia in the again ar?d again — for the sheer immensity of two world wars and in earlier and later the exhibition can command not hours, but conflicts. days of interest. At the head of the courtyard In its half-century as the official residence of distinguished visitors are entertained. Before Australia’s Governors-General, this discreetly the government bought it in 1911, elegant house has accommodated many a Yarralumla, as the house and property were famous guest and witnessed many a cer­ then called, belonged to the Campbell family emonial occasion. Here new governments are of Duntroon. The original name, from an commissioned, and new Acts of Parliament Aboriginal word meaning ‘Where the cry receive royal assent. Here the credentials of comes back from the mountain’, was then ambassadors are accepted, and members of taken for the South Canberra suburb which the Royal Family, Heads of State and other grew up around Government House. As the national capital and seat of govern­ governments to accommodate the ment, Canberra must also perform the role of ambassadors or (in the case of Com­ diplomatic centre, and provide hospitality to monwealth representatives) high commis­ those nations which have established formal sioners, and their chancelleries, have relations with Australia. Of these there are contributed richly to the city’s architectural now more than sixty, and foreign diplomats diversity. One of the latest to be completed is and their families make up a significant part shown here: the Embassy of Poland, in of a widely cosmopolitan community. Turrana Street, Yarralumla ... Equally, the buildings erected by these . .. and nearby one of the most distinctive: the more recently constructed are to be found in Embassy of Thailand, on the corner of the section of Yarralumla bounded by State and Empire Circuit. In­ Circle, Adelaide Avenue and Empire Circuit, deed, conveniently for the sightseer, most of near the lake’s southern shore. Two import­ the diplomatic missions and residences are ant exceptions are the USSR, in Canberra located in Yarralumla and Red Hill, with a Avenue, Griffith, and the Chinese People’s few also in their linking suburbs, Deakin and Republic on the Federal Highway — one of Forrest. There are more than twenty on Red the few embassies situated north of the lake. Hill’s Mugga Way alone, while many of the Canberra reflects a diversity of influences. Above: Norma Redpath’s fountain dominates the forecourt of the Treasury. But the day of reckoning seems far from this serene corner of The Australian National University cam­ pus, right. The ANU has earned an inter­ national reputation for research in several fields, among them astronomy: opposite, top right, Mt Observatory. Left: The headquarters of the Australian Academy of Science; and below, the Old Canberra Inn, restored and plying its trade again a century later.

Canberrans refer to their city centre — the streets lined with shops and offices which radiate from City Hill — simply as Civic. Below: Melbourne Building (1928). Right: . Even the children go willingly to shop if it’s in Civic! For there, in , stands Canberra’s magnificent old carousel, top. As well as a multitude of street-front stores, boutiques and restaurants, Civic boasts three large, under-one-roof shopping complexes: the Monaro Mall, the Boulevard above and Canberra Arcade. Right: Shops at Ainslie, an inner suburb. Civic was the first, and is still the capital’s malls in Australia. The pattern of NewTowns principal business centre, despite the rapid — a third is being developed at , growth of the self-contained New Towns with south of Woden — relieves inner Canberra of their own large shopping complexes. Colour­ big-city growth pressures and enables the ful Woden Plaza above in the ACT’s first New preservation of large areas of countryside Town, and Mall in the second, are within the urban perimeter. among the most modern and extensive retail Foto: Heidi

Large offices are being established in the New Towns and some nine thousand people are employed in . The Canberra plan thus decentralises not only community services but work opportunities too: the New Towns are becoming independ­ ent of their parent city. But most government departments are still housed within or close to the Parliamentary Triangle, as in the Administrative Building above seen across the lawns in front of Parliament House, and the Trade Offices right.

Being built among hills, but not on them, Canberra is a city of splendid panoramic views. Top: from Capital Hill the eye travels straight up Kings Avenue to the tall column of the Australian-American Memorial. Above right: Looking back the other way, from Mt Pleasant towards Kings Avenue Bridge. Left: Part of North Canberra from Mt Ainslie. The prevalent image of Canberra is one of which was founded by Robert Campbell of newness: after all. the city was only founded Duntroon in 1841 with a gift of £1,000 and in 1913. So it comes as a surprise to discover 40 ha of land. The Anglican church stands that here are some of the oldest buildings peacefully among trees and gravestones near standing in Australia, and still in use. The the corner of Anzac Parade and Constitution churches, for example, are among the most Avenue, looking more like a scene in an modern, and the most venerable, in the land. English village than one in the young capital First of the latter is St John the Baptist’s. of a young country.

i The seasons are characteristic, clearly de­ fined; the light is clear; nature’s year-long procession of changing colours emerges whenever and wherever you pause to look. The myriad varieties of trees; the weaving lakeshore; the masses of flowers and shrubs in gardens public and private — strange how relatively recent it all is. And the great backdrop of the Brindabella Ranges sets this Canberra scene, as it did those before it.

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Yes, trees. You expect monuments, memor­ native and imported, fill the parks and ials and national institutions in a capital — reserves and line the streets — every one of and you get them in Canberra. But more than them. Walnuts from Arizona, olives from the all of these, Canberra is trees: ten million or Mediterranean, deodars from India, pepper more have been planted in a continuous trees from Peru, silk trees from China, elms program over sixty years. Before then, incred­ from America, and of course Australia’s own ible though it now seems, the area was largely wattles and gums — Canberra’s arboreal, like barren grazing land, except for the wooded its human, population is representative of hillsides. Now hundreds of varieties, both many nations. In Canberra the seasons paint the city with impressionistic abandon. Each bestows its own charm, each offers a lure to poet, painter and photographer: spring, with its exotic blooms and blossoms; summer, when euca- lypt, wattle, kurrajong, pine, cypress, fir. spruce, cedar, and broad-leafed evergreens spread their shade widest: autumn — for some, with tones of red, yellow and rich brown blazing on hawthorn, oak, maple, ash. poplar, elm, liquidambar and birch, even more spectacular than spring: and winter, too, when often against a background of snow-capped mountains, naked branches print their delicate tracery and evergreens stand in solid majesty. ‘Have you ever seen a sugar glider at close quarters?’ asks a booklet issued by the Department of the Capital Territory’s conser­ vation people. ‘If not, then here’s your chance.’ And if you think a sugar glider is a new line in teaspoons, perhaps you should accept their invitation and go for a ramble in the ACT’s nature reserves. They are , comprising Black Mountain, Mt Ainslie and Mt within the metro­ politan area, and Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, 40 km south of the city. There you may see not only the sugar glider, but a variety of other animals such as the kangaroo above, and at Tidbinbilla the koala right, the corroboree frog opposite, above and the nocturnal pigmy glider below, smallest member of the possum family to which friend sugar, too, belongs. ü£» - V#f r;:‘ • . **• « . *v *1*r> . l&Jtk- *, •< w y ** U m jf

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The ACT is a land of rivers. King of them is looking towards the Murrumbidgee; the Murrumbidgee, one of Australia’s longest opposite, the verandah. A self-contained waterways. Early settlers esteemed the river, village in its heyday, with dairy, butchery, and built gracious homes upon its banks. Of bakery, smithy — and convict jail — Lanyon these the oldest and most elegant survivor is is now national property and open to the Lanyon, begun in 1835: top left, the home­ public. stead; right, gate to the milking sheds; above, Sfephen Cole

Nearly two-thirds of the Capital Territory is more than 72,000 ha only an hour’s drive unsuitable for urban development. But with from the city. It is characterised by thickly its mountains and forests, valleys and wooded ranges, remote valleys and per­ streams forming some of the most natural manently flowing streams such as the wilderness in Australia, it is worthy indeed above. The establishment of of preservation. So the southern third of the the park will bring to more than 50 per cent Territory (Canberra and its immediate the total ACT land area reserved for recrea­ environs occupy the northern third) will tional, water catchment or animal sanctuary become Gudgenby National Park, a region of purposes. The middle third of the Territory, embracing such popular excursion or recreation features as Cotter and Corin Dams, Tidbinbilla Re­ serve and Space Tracking Station, Lanyon and Cuppacumbalong homesteads, , Point Hut and other delightful spots, is familiar ground to most Canberrans. The scenes shown here are near , top and left, near the village of Tharwa. Although the largest inland city on the clearly visible on the Brindabella slopes from world’s driest continent, Canberra enjoys an Canberra itself in winter. Chief provider is abundant and assured water supply. The the above. Rising in the southern Territory is crisscrossed by rivers that rise in ACT, it flows along the escarpment of the the mountains to the west, south and east. Bimberi and Brindabella Ranges before being They are fed not only by the high-altitude swallowed up by the greater Murrumbidgee. rains but by melting snow as well — snow But on the way it has been thrice dammed! Canberra is only two hours’ drive from the Snowy Mountains and Kosciusko National Park, the centre of the Australian Alps. But you need not travel even that distance to find abundant opportunities for skiing in season. Mt Franklin left is just 70 km from the city. Rising to 1,650 metres, it and its neigh­ bouring peaks are for months blanketed with acres of snow. At other times the ranges and valleys offer hours of pleasure to the bush- walker or the trout fisherman. Below: An­ other of the ACT’s well-fed streams — Paddy’s River. ACT To tonne antenna at Tidbinbilla Deep Space Space Deep Tidbinbilla at antenna tonne 7,200- 64-metre, the top, class: their in Giants Canberra; and right, the huge Yarralumla from Yarralumla huge 40km the right, and Complex, Canberra; Communication woolshed on the outskirts of the city. The The city. the of outskirts the on woolshed latter is used mainly now as an informal informal an to as continues former now The functions. for mainly venue used is latter play a key role in space exploration. space in role key a play ACT Toi

Ceremony is an essential part of the life of a the Royal Military College, shown here at national capital, and Canberra is no excep­ their annual graduation parade. The college1, tion. The opening of Parliament, the recep­ usually referred to as Duntroon after the tion of visiting Heads of State, the celebration original property, trains officers for the of national, and international, days — such Australian and New Zealand armies in both occasions bring theatrical glitter to a city that military and academic skills. Duntroon was not built in a pompous age but was, station was established in 1825 by Robert nevertheless, well planned for their staging. Campbell, whose elegant homestead still Participants in some of them are the cadets of stands there. Not only is Canberra itself young, it is a city and guns at the War Memorial, they can go of and for the young, too. Half the population down to the lakeshore and clamber around of some 215,000 is under 25 years of age, and tunnels and forts and tree houses, or a half of these under twelve. Furthermore, of geodesic dome. There, in Commonwealth the two and a half million visitors a year a Park, where these pictures were taken, and large proportion is families with school-age Weston park lurk sufficient adventures to children. The youngsters find plenty to keep a young soul absorbed for hours on end interest and occupy them. When they tire (if ... and an old one absolved! ever they do) of clambering over the tanks

Enticements for youth to prolong itself, or be termed conceivable, br even, strictly, even chance a comeback, are many and sport. Canberra Day, 12 March, usually brings varied, too. The people of Canberra indulge out a few such curiosities, which may range in almost every conceivable sport, making the from snail races to car body races, opposite. most of their fine climate, environment and But the stall, top, one of many set up in Civic facilities — such as the National Athletics Square for the festivities, is for refreshments Stadium, above, scene here for the Pacific only: not even Canberrans can make hot dogs Games in December 1977. They also are race. known to practise some that might scarcely s -C ©

From car rally to bush concert, from kite­ flying contest to billy-cart derby, something is always happening outdoors, on weekends, on holidays, on any day. The countryside smiles irresistibly, and few dwellers in this nature-respecting city are not, frequently, seduced by it. Above: The Down to Earth Festival held at the Cotter Reserve in 1976 drew thousands, of all ages, from near and far. Opposite Page: Top, dancing to a folk group in Garema Place; below, a bush band at Cuppacumbalong. But, while nature may do so, the girl in the sideshow right isn’t exactly smiling.

Previous page: history and mystery, too, The capital of a federated nation is tradition­ frequent this corner of Australia. It wasn’t ally an easy butt for criticism. But that’s always so peaceful — but now in Gundaroo federalism — and the human political the potter turns her wheel undisturbed and animal. The photographs in this book show a the vintage car outside the store once raided city impressive enough to blunt the slings by bushrangers looks an unlikely bearer of and arrows of the cynic, that only twenty new violence. Nearby Lake George, discov­ years ago could, and did, sting. Yes, it has ered in 1820, still baffles scientists with its taken just that long for the once ridiculed strange tidal . ‘bush capital’, the planners’ dream that for decades seemed fated to remain a dream, to become a national city of which Canberrans, and all Australians, can be modestly proud.