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Mahia Marvellous

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Mahia Marvellous MCD EXPLORE ahia Peninsula juts out into Hawke’s Bay like a beckoning finger. Apparently, the 21.7km-long Marvellous Mand 11.3km-wide peninsula was once an island, but over time a sandbar has joined it to the rest of the North Island. On an August afternoon, delicate rays of winter sunlight are colouring the Mahia settlement, creating golden hollows in the hummocks and sand dunes. At Mahia Beach Motel I ask the manager, Guy Isherwood, why it’s so deserted. He says, “We don’t get much of the tourist trade during the year, perhaps it’s because we are off the stunning natural beauty, is bountiful owners manoeuver carefully over a thick Vivienne Haldane takes a trip to the extraordinary beaten track and in a way we are happy fishing grounds and safe beaches. mat of seaweed into the water. about that; it’s part of its charm.” Before the sun disappears, we go for a Just above the sand, there’s a MahiaMahia Peninsula, slightly off the beaten track, but According to Guy, the hordes begin wander along the beach. A man and his commemorative rock embedded with well worth the detour. arriving around Labour Weekend when dog are the only other walkers. At the far fossilised shells. It has a plaque that says, the weather warms up. Over summer, the end, a delegation of seagulls is sorting The US 2nd Marine Division carried out population swells from 700 to 7000. Part out their bird business. A smart looking practice landings on this beach in 1943. of the draw card, apart from Mahia’s tractor appears pulling a boat which its I’d like to know more. 40 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations 41 MCD EXPLORE MCD EXPLORE Xxxxxxxxxxxx Guy has given us some tips for places fishermen are seen surf casting on ledges brings out coffee and muffins while Bill parents had baches here. Since he to explore, so the next morning we are of flat rock. answers my questions. retired, Bill has begun to delve into the up and away. We’re in the Jeep so have At Whangawehi, little fishing boats are The couple, who used to live in local history. Every now and then he no worries about travelling over any moored on the glassy estuary. We travel Wairoa, have been coming to Mahia since writes articles for the Gisborne and rough ground we might encounter. We along the Mahia East Coast Road as far they were children as their respective Wairoa newspapers and one day he’d like take Kinikini Road leading south along as we fancy. A completely relaxed and to write a book. the peninsula. unhurried air surrounds the whole He knows all about the US Marines We count ourselves lucky to have such peninsula and we are certainly in no hurry who came to do training exercises here in a pristine morning. The air is so still you ourselves, so we dawdle the day away, 1943 before going into battle against the can hear the waves breaking on the point ending up a little further north at Mahanga Japanese on the island of Tarawa in the near Blacks Beach where we had seen Beach. Apparently this white sand beach Pacific. “They were here for about two surfers the day before. is excellent for swimming, diving and weeks while they staged a mock landing.” We follow a limestone ribbon of road fishing. They stayed at Opoutama Beach and upwards before we park and walk for a Before leaving, I’m keen to find out before they sailed, buried a lot of their while. Around every corner are new views some local history straigh from the equipment, including jeeps and bulldozers to admire. Xxxxxxxxxx horse’s mouth. The Mahia Store owner in the peat bog. It was all hush hush. An old railway carriage, smothered in points me in the direction of local They came in under smoke and went out ginger rust, has been dumped in the lee Some familiar landmarks such as On the way back to the beach we resident, Bill Shortt. “He knows heaps under smoke. of a ridge, probably for use as storage. Nuhaka and Wairoa can be recognised check out the Mahia Scenic Reserve, about Mahia; you’ll find him next door to “Cath’s grandfather was a talented Overhead, a hawk arcs and swoops across the bay. A little fishing boat making a mental note of it for the next the red bach, along the beach front,” he amateur photographer and he got gracefully in search of a tasty morsel. On zooms into the blue cleft between hills time. In the afternoon we drive to the tells me. I’m hoping Bill doesn’t mind a arrested for taking photos; they took his the hilltop, a posse of billy goats cast a rutted with sheep tracks. To the north, other side of the peninsula. According to couple of complete strangers knocking camera and never gave it back.” watchful eye over us. How destructive beyond layers of hollowed hills, lies the locals, this is where the best fishing on his door but to our delight, he and his Mahia has an interesting maritime they must be for the native bush. Young Nick’s Head. spots are and sure enough, a few wife Cath make us very welcome. Cath Bill Shortt history too. Twenty-nine vessels have been Xxxxxxxxxx Xxxxxxxxxx Xxxxxxxxxx Xxxxxxxxxx Xxxxxxxxxx Xxxxxxxxxx Xxxxxxxxxx Xxxxxxxxxx 42 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations 43 MCD EXPLORE people who live locally, stopping to have a natter and finding out about what makes their place so special. Bill and Cath shared some intriguing anecdotes about Mahia and this really polished off our trip. For more information, visit voyagemahia.com Local knowledge • Mahia means ‘indistinct sound’ in Maori • Mahia was settled by the Maori 600 years ago and in time there were 13 wrecked along the Mahia coastline. Many “It’s a nice little community. We have a pa spread out across the peninsula. of these causalities were supply vessels for wonderful lifestyle here. I do lots of In the 1840s, Mahia was swamped the early whaling stations that dotted the fishing. I have a mate who has a good with a large influx of Maori who were western coastline of the peninsula. boat: we catch tarakihi, groper, gurnard fleeing Te Rauparaha and others on One of the most well-known was the and a lot of crayfish.” the warpath. SS Tasmania, which sank in 1897 with The district was in the news when • Mahia Scenic Reserve: The 374ha the loss of 13 lives. This ship was made Moko the playful dolphin made Mahia his reserve is one of last remaining areas famous by underwater explorer, the late home between 2007 and 2009. It was Bill of coastal forest between East Cape Kelly Tarlton, who in 1975 recovered a who initially discovered him. “I was laying and Cape Palliser – this type of forest large quantity of jewels belonging to a a set line and wondered what on earth it was often milled and burnt in the passenger, Isadore Rothschild. was. We named him Moko after the 1800 and 1900s to be replaced with According to Bill, whaling began headland here, Mokotahi.” pasture, so good examples like this around the Mahia Peninsula in 1837. “The Unfortunately, Moko met a sad fate: he are rare. Ward brothers started at Waikokopu was found dead on Matakana Island near • Mahia Store has supplies of just across the bay and William Ellis at Taylor’s Tauranga in 2010. In his short four-year about everything you need including Bay. Those guys must have been game in life, he truly captured the hearts of the groceries, magazines, Lotto, NZ Post their small boats which they had to row people of Mahia with his antics. and wine. out to make their kill.” When you visit a new location, • Mahia Beach Holiday Park He knows all about the families who exploring what’s on offer is fantastic. But I motelscabinscampmahiabeach.com owned land in the area, and many still do. reckon the best thing is meeting the or call (06) 837 5830 44 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations.
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