Southern Comfort Farremoved from Perth and Margaret River,The Smalltownofdenmark Is Alow-Proﬁle Star of Western Australia, As Janetstreet-Porterdiscovered

Source: The i {Main} Edition: Country: UK Date: Saturday 16, November 2019 Page: 61 Area: 562 sq. cm Circulation: ABC 221083 Daily Ad data: page rate £10,472.00, scc rate £44.00 Phone: 020 7005 2000 Keyword: Western Australia

Southern comfort Farremoved from Perth and Margaret River,the smalltownofDenmark is alow-proﬁle star of Western Australia, as JanetStreet-Porterdiscovered

hen my friend told me he The journeyisconsidereddangerous after The two-year-old oaked chardonnay hadinherited the fam- dusk because of kangaroos on the road. wasdelicious. These arecool-climate ilyhomestead (a former Denmarksits behind Wilson Inlet, a wines, grownonsouth-facing slopes fac- dairy farm) in Denmark, beautifullagoon whichprotects it from ing the Southern Ocean. Down theroad, WWestern Australia, Iwas storms. Established in 1895asacentre the Rockcliffevineyard produces deli- immediatelycurious. Denmarkhas some fortimber, the town is tucked at the foot cious sparkling winesand hostssummer of the country’smost pristine beaches, of rolling hills. As the supply of mature movie nights and livemusic. yetitremains atouristbackwater,along nativetrees diminished, the land became The driveeast to the cityofAlbanyis drive south from Perth,pastfashionable pasturefor the dairyindustry, whichis ascenic route, winding past farms and MargaretRiver’s vineyardsand boutique nowindecline.The fields arenow being idyllic pastures.The white sand beach- hotels down to thesouth coast. This part planted as vineyards–which, along with es around Albanyare sensational, and of Australia is friendly and unpretentious tourism, is the region’s main source of in- the main street is lined with Federation –afarcry from thesophisticated coastal come.The coast is the main attraction – buildingsrepaintedinbright colours. resorts of the east coast. miles of south-facing,white-sand beaches, Turn-of-the-century wooden houses line My journeystarted in the historicport interspersed with hugegranite boulders the surrounding hills, withviews of the of Fremantle,where the climate is brac- smoothed by the elements. docks and the lagoon beyond. Iclimbed to ing,the light dazzling.You never Aclifftop walk from Lights Bay the topofthe highest –MountClarence– forget it sits on the edgeofa took me throughlow-lying bush. to the AnzacMemorial. The longclimb hugeocean. Founded in 1829, Blackcockatoosswooping wasdesignedasanopportunityfor con- Fremantle wassettledby overhead were my only templation, and thewar memorial is one middle-class professionals company. At Greens Pool, of the most movingIhave evervisited. and skilled workerswhose Iswaminopal-coloured trades ranged from black- water,then walked over Into thewild smith to surgeon, horti- the headland to Elephant Idecided to return to Perthvia the more culturalist to surveyor. Rocks, wherethe water is circuitous coast route.I’d been told to But theysoonneeded help. evenmorespectacular. start with afull tank of petrol and leave By 1850, 9,000 convicts had The next day, adrive early,toavoid animals on the road.There arrived to help build the town throughgiant kauri trees on the were no cafésand no amenities until Wal- jail andmanyofthe fine buildings outskirts of Denmarktookmepast pole,withasign offering “marrons for youcan see today–the market, boys’ small vineyards, the most commercial Clockwise from sale”.Marrons aresmall localcrayfish, school, prison,townhall, hospital,har- of which is The LakeHouse.There is a main: Elephant caughtwhere riversmeet the ocean. bour and lunatic asylum. tasting room andrestaurant, wherethe Rocks; Forest At Gnarabup,Ire-enteredthe modern lunchplatter of smokedchicken and local Hill Winery world. The food and the viewsatThe Reclaimed history cheese comeswithhome-made pickles, in Denmark; White Elephant Beach Café arefirst Fremantle’s wealthderived from meat, and the diningroom overlooksalake Fremantle’s rate.Fresh sardines on ryebread with wheatand wool, andthe cityremains one surroundedbyblue agapanthus. high street tapenade and harissasauceset me up for of Australia’s busiestports –appropri- an afternoon walk along part of thefour- ately,Istayedinthe Hougoumont Hotel, dayCape to Cape walk,with Anne, alocal named after one of the convict boats guide from Walk into Luxury tours. We and built from shipping containers. A skirtedthe headlandsnear Canal Rocks, fewblocksawayonthe waterfront is the with pristine white beaches belowthe Shipwreck Museum in the former Com- granite cliffs. The densebush of manuka missariatbuilding,which contains the trees, rock roses andorchids formeda impressiveremains of theship Batavia carpet of flowers in all directions. wrecked in 1629. Later,Idrove half-an-hour up the coast At thestylish National Hotel,built dur- past the holidayhamletofDunsborough ing the 1890sGoldRush, therooftopbar and on to Bunker Bayand my hotel. Ahot is agreat placetoenjoyawrap-around showerwas followedbyagourmet plate of viewofthe city’sWest Endquarter and grilledcuttlefish and blackened cabbage its surviving 250 historicbuildings. at nearby Yarri restaurant. Iwas back in The five-hour drivetoDenmarkvia the the 21st century. But Denmarkand Alba- AlbanyHighway winds throughdense ny have aunique charm –and youreally forest, grazingland and fewsettlements. can’t beatthose desertedbeaches.

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WHERE TO EAT Western NationalHo tel, Fremantle has several eateries and bars Australia (nationalhotelfremantle.com.au). Lake House Vineyard, Denmark WHEN TO GO (lakehousedenmark.com.au). Denmark has warm, dry Rockcliffe Vineyard, Denmark summers,w ith averagehi ghs (rockcliffe.com.au). of 25°C between January and Ocean andPa ddock, Albany, was March. Winters are mild and wet; named the best fish and chip shop temperatures fall to around1 6°C in WesternAustralia. Octopus and between June and September. lobster were on the menu when I visited (oceanandpaddock.com.au). HOW TO GET THERE White ElephantCafé, Gnarabup Qantas flies toPe rth non-stop (whiteelephantcafe.com.au). from Heathrow with fares from £868 return (qantas.com). WHAT TO SEE Denmark is around a four-and- Take a walk around the historic a-half hour drive south from Perth. buildings of Fremantle’sWest Internal flights operate from Perth End with Two Feet and a Heartbeat to Albany, around 40 minutes’ drive (twofeet.com.au). from Denmark. Walk into Luxury tours Flight Centre offers a South- (walkintoluxury.com.au). West Australiap ackage from £2,459pp including flights,1 1 days’ MORE INFORMATION car hire, two nights at the Seashells westernaustralia.com Fremantle, four nights at the Chimes Spa Retreat in Denmark, twon ights at the Pullman Resort Bunker Bayi n Margaret River, two Askal ocal nights at the Como The Treasury, MAX BREARLEY Perth, and a Discover Rottnestt our Writer (flightcentre.co.uk). “Walking coastal paths and WHERETO STAY deserted beaches, marvelling Hougoumont Hotel, at The Gap [a granite channel Fremantle, has doubles carved by the waves of the from AUS$161 (£86) Great Southern Ocean against (hougoumonthotel.com). the coastline,forming a sheer drop of almost 25m], the Blowholes, and making a trip out to the Stirling Range and the Porongurups, the region’s diverse beauty is ever-apparent.”