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8 hand-feed kangaroos (lancelin.com.au; from £7; £7; from (lancelin.com.au; moonscapes of bizarre, of moonscapes and pedalling to a deserted beach in either direction either in

NOVEMBER 2018 NOVEMBER Quokkas — chubby, inquisitive One of Oz’s great wine regions, don’tYou have to go far to find Oz’s You haven’tYou done Perth until you’ve the southwest,To cool and arty sandboard down giant dunes ). Fit). them in a tour (adamspinnacle 11 , Perth’s portside Perth’s neighbour, Fremantle, cafes, family-run with abuzz is restaurants in converted warehouses and microbreweries. Come for an evening or a full to day, buildings colonial-era hulking such as the eerie Fremantle Prison (fremantleprison.com.au; this 19th-century convict jail’s stories ona walk-round (from £12) — or on a spooky torchlight tour (£15). l squirrel-like creatures are the — reason most visitors flock to Rottnest Island, trimmed with sandy shores and rocky coves. The beasts are easily spotted, but save your selfies for later — the island’s true appeal is in hopping onthe first boat (7.30am) from Fremantle (rottnestexpress.com.au; 30min; £28 return), then (£17) of your choosing. of Little Parakeet Bay l Margaret River from Perth. It has caves to explore, wildflower- spattered clifftop hikes and forests of giant karri trees with the wilds on a hosted day-trip to avoid driving (margaretriverdiscovery. £118pp). com.au; l miss Don’t landscapes. Outback-style the Pinnacles desert of Perth (about two hours’ drive), its with formations pointy rock way, stop to at the Caversham Wildlife Park £17; (cavershamwildlife.com.au; or Lancelin £104). tours.com.au; l done the beach. the No. Take 990 bus to Scarborough the city centre, where a recent sexy refurb has brought in an Olympic-sized pool and a skate park. The highlight is the sand, though: backed, stretching as far as you can see turquoise. shimmering Ocean l

instant escapes FIRST TIMER’S PERTH

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SEE & DO l 1 The glassy Swan River is Kings Park boab trees and multi-coloured multi-coloured and trees boab flowering grevillea. ✂ GUIDE CUT-OUT-AND-GO its with centre, skyscraper-shiny street-art-splashed laneways, will revive you. Discover the highlights on an evening tour of the city’s best small bars: Feet and Two a Heartbeat whisks you from a backstreet whiskyjoint to a movie-themed den cocktail bargain for £32 (twofeet.com.au; restaurant three hours). Historic Perth tales lace the drinking, so it still counts sightseeing.as l from which to admire that glittering abound, companies Cruise skyline. (littleferryco. Co Ferry Little the but com.au; £18 for a day pass) differs hop-on, tiny lovably operating by hop-off boats. Start at ( Stadium Optus the past upstream Keep a look out for black swans and dolphins, as well as kangaroos Heirisson Island l square four — glory crowning Perth’s kilometres of green majesty above the Swan River. Spend a morning exploring: swathes of semi-wild carved are bushland banksia native and tracks, walking with walkway treetop a include sections Gardens Botanic free the and wa.gov.au). time Take at the latter hulking including flora, local spot to By David Whitley David By , Sydney! , Sydney! there Perth

NOVEMBER 2018 NOVEMBER

SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL

instant escapes 134 This gateway to Oz is Oz This giving to gateway its bigger siblings run a cool their for money jaunt. Perma-blue it perfect, skies make and urban for buzz it gives a run Best all, its of for money. a new nonstop flight from getsHeathrow there you in one So go. With surfable sandy beaches, headily delicious wines and kangaroos for the city’scompany, big on the iconic things want you from Under a Down First-timer’s First-timer’s ✂ instant escapes

CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I FIRST TIMER’S PERTH

EAT DRINK & SHOP l Dairy beloved l Laneway cocktails FROMAGE ARTISAN (Mains about £5) THE CHEEKY SPARROW Because: Part wine bar, part cheese Because: The granny-floral settees shop, part dairy-obsessed restaurant, and bright stools fit with Perth’s new this place excels at masterclasses and ironic-chic image. The location on Wolf cheese-and-wine flights in an old Lane, the city’s street-art hub, helps. Perth bank vault. Travel’s tip: Order the HERE FOR Travel’s tip: The punchiest sip is the THE BEER 10-cheese toastie — it’s a revelation. Don’t just stick to £9 Bee Sting, with honey, bourbon, 101 St George’s Terrace, Perth; 00 61 8 cocktails and ginger and blueberry jam. 317 Murray 9321 6967, fromage.com.au; 12 . wine — WA’s St, Perth; cheekysparrow.com.au; 17 . craft-beer scene is booming. l Go native Hunt down the l Cellar-door special STABLE HANDS (Mains about £13) Nail VPA for a MCHENRY HOHNEN Because: Here, indigenous Aussie crisp, easy- Because: This Margaret River winery drinking brew flavours are done with finesse: expect serves biodynamic tipples and unusual the likes of bush yam puree with varietals. Travel’s tip: Most tours miss it, macadamia-encrusted kangaroo. but it’s on Harvest Tours’ (harvesttours. Travel’s tip: The wine list homes in on com.au; £60). 5962 Caves Rd, Margaret small Western Australian producers River; mchenryhohnen.com.au; 18 . — ask for suggestions. 8 Bannister St, Fremantle; 00 61 8 9430 7309, l To market stablehandsfremantle.com.au; 13 . FREMANTLE MARKETS Because: Craftspeople come in their l Warehouse wonder droves on weekends to sell jarrah BREAD IN COMMON (Mains wood chopping boards, opal jewellery about £13) and native plant teas. Travel’s tip: Look Because: Fluffy breads, chutneys, hot for the Alphabet Jigsaw Puzzles stall sauces and pickled veg for sale line — kids love its kangaroo jigsaws. South the shelves of a cavernous converted Terrace & Henderson St, Fremantle; warehouse. Much is cooked over a fremantlemarkets.com.au; 19 . wood-burning grill; the roast potatoes are ambrosial. Travel’s tip: Fancy a picnic? Scrummy sandwiches STAY l Nautical ‘n’ nice l Beach escape GET ME THERE (£6) are available for takeaway. 43 ASK THE l World heritage hostel THE HOUGOUMONT (Doubles PULLMAN BUNKER BAY (Villas GO INDEPENDENT Pakenham St, Fremantle; 00 61 8 9336 LOCAL FREMANTLE PRISON YHA from £113, room-only) sleeping two from £170, room-only) Qantas flies direct from Heathrow 1032, breadincommon.com.au; 14 . Clint Nolan owns several (Twins from £37, room-only) Because: Themed around the last ’ROO Because: Inside the Leeuwin- to Perth in 17 hours, from £779 return. WATCH bars and restaurants in Because: These former cells in the to visit Western , Naturaliste National Park and facing Singapore Airlines flies from Heathrow the dynamic Perth Be careful when l Vine dining suburb of Northbridge must-see Fremantle Prison have been the Hougoumont’s wood-panelled driving up Cape the highly photogenic Bunker and Manchester, via Singapore, from VASSE FELIX (Mains about £22) converted into spartan twin rooms, rooms, inside converted shipping Naturaliste Road, Bay Beach, the Pullman’s limestone £727 return. Or try Emirates or Etihad. inside Leeuwin- Because: Margaret River’s oldest and while a former exercise yard hosts containers, are designed to look like Naturaliste self-catering villas are perfect for lazing largest winery does seasonal lunches The Good Fortune Roast volleyball courts and ping-pong tables cruise cabins. Travel’s tip: Max out on National Park, in (with your Margaret River wine GO PACKAGED on its perfectly positioned balcony. Duck House in Northbridge for guests. Travel’s tip: If comfort is the freebies, including fruit at reception, especially at night purchases). Travel’s tip: Look out for Discover The World (discover-the- Free wine samples are poured (goodfortuneduckhouse.com.au; more important than quirkiness, ask for and a daily wine-and-cheese hour — there are plenty bandicoots and ring-tailed possums world.co.uk) has a 12-night Whales TASTING of kangaroos, and downstairs. Travel’s tip: For a pretty NOTE mains about £12; 20) is my all-time a more spacious (still simple) en-suite (5pm to 6pm). 15 Bannister St, they’ve not read on the lush, multi-tiered grounds. and Wine of the South West fly-drive, view out over the vines, ask for a table Most winery favourite — it serves fantastic roast double in the new wing (from £54). 6A Fremantle; hougoumonthotel.com; 24. the Highway Code 42 Bunker Bay Rd, Naturaliste; including hotels and car from £1,345pp; on the left-hand side. Caves Rd & Tom restaurants are duck, it’s a slice of Chinese heritage The Terrace, Fremantle; yha.com.au; 6 . pullmanbunkerbayresort.com.au; 26. flights extra. Austravel (austravel.com) Cullity Drive, Margaret River; 00 61 8 open for lunch and you can bring your own beers. l Culture vulture has a six-day Perth and Margaret River only. At night, the 9756 5000, vassefelix.com.au; 15 . towns of Margaret Another find is Swallow Bar (swallow l Park life THE ALEX (Doubles from £124, B&B) l Push the boat out self-drive from £379pp, including car River and bar.com.au; 21 ) in Maylands, right TRIBE (Doubles from £89, room-only) Because: Sink-in sofas and board COMO THE TREASURY (Doubles hire and hotels; flights extra. l Rooftop treat Dunsborough across from the railway station. Because: It’s on the edge of central games, a distinct lack of work desks On the white lines: from £335, B&B) have the biggest WILDFLOWER (Five-courses £83) There’s usually live music, and it does Kings Park, with eclectic decor in bedrooms and exposed concrete clockwise from top Because: A multi-million-dollar GET AROUND

and best range of MAIDENHEAD CARTOGRAPHIC : left, minimalist living Because: It’s fine-dining Australian- dining options great bar-snacky dinners. In terms of that’s great to behold; expect, too, everywhere — the slick Alex taps into at Como The revamp of three colonial-era The taxi ride from the airport costs MAP style: the menu is based on the six beaches, you have to go north or south mismatched lobby furniture, boxer- the cool cultural vibe of Northbridge, the Treasury; snacks for government buildings has created about £24. Buses in central Perth are seasons of the local people, from Perth for the best. I like Conto’s style robes in rooms and golden rejuvenated nightlife area just north of sale in Fremantle calming, minimalist — and massive — free; to get to the suburbs, use the train Markets; the pool 22 and native plants are menu mainstays. Beach in Margaret River, partly trophies on bedside tables. Travel’s the centre. Muffins and Bloody Marys at the Pullman suites, with freestanding baths and (transperth.wa.gov.au) or hire a car Try the Manjimup crayfish with zippy because the karri tree-lined drive tip: Don’t be put off by the smallest are dished out gratis, too. Travel’s tip: Bunker Bay; heated floors. Travel’s tip: Check out the (about £250 for a week at hertz.com). finger limes. Travel’s tip: Book a table down Caves Road to the National rooms — they, too, have plenty of IMAGES AWL ALAMY, Those bikes parked out front? Yours lunching at Vasse art — the owner has put his vast private on the terrace, which overlooks the city. Park is stunningly beautiful. well-designed storage space (luggage for the taking — so pedal off to explore Felix vineyard; collection of local nature and landscape FURTHER INFORMATION the Pinnacles 1 Cathedral Ave, Perth; 00 61 8 6168 slides neatly under the bed). 4 Walker the city. 50 James St, Northbridge; in Nambung paintings on display. 1 Cathedral Ave, See westernaustralia.com and

7855, wildflowerperth.com.au; 16 . Ave, West Perth; tribehotels.com.au; 23. PHOTOGRAPHS: alexhotel.com.au; 25. National Park Perth; comohotels.com/thetreasury; 16 . australia.com.

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