✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I FIRST TIMER’S PERTH SEE & DO Surf’s up: l You haven’t done Perth until you’ve l Fresh off the flight? Perth’s Scarborough Beach; done the beach. Take the No. 990 bus below, a quokka on skyscraper-shiny centre, with its to Scarborough 5 , 15km northwest of Rottnest Island; the street-art-splashed laneways, will Perth skyline and the city centre, where a recent sexy revive you. Discover the highlights the River Swan refurb has brought in an Olympic-sized on an evening tour of the city’s best pool and a skate park. The highlight is small bars: Two Feet and a Heartbeat the sand, though: white and dune- whisks you from a backstreet backed, stretching as far as you can whisky joint to a movie-themed see in either direction, beside an Indian bargain cocktail den above a Chinese Ocean shimmering turquoise. restaurant (twofeet.com.au; £32 for three hours). Historic Perth tales l To the southwest, cool and arty lace the drinking, so it still counts Fremantle, Perth’s portside neighbour, as sightseeing. is abuzz with family-run cafes, restaurants in converted warehouses l The glassy Swan River is the spot and microbreweries. Come for an from which to admire that glittering evening or a full day, to explore skyline. Cruise companies abound, hulking colonial-era buildings but the Little Ferry Co (littleferryco. such as the eerie Fremantle Prison com.au; £18 for a day pass) differs (fremantleprison.com.au; 6 ). Discover by operating lovably tiny hop-on, this 19th-century convict jail’s stories hop-off boats. Start at Elizabeth on a walk-round (from £12) — or on Quay ( 1 on map), in the CBD, heading a spooky torchlight tour (£15). upstream past the Optus Stadium 2 . Keep a look out for black swans and l Quokkas — chubby, inquisitive dolphins, as well as kangaroos on squirrel-like creatures — are the Heirisson Island 3 . reason most visitors flock to Rottnest Island, trimmed with sandy shores l Kings Park 4 has long been BARBIE and rocky coves. The beasts are easily HOTSPOT Perth’s crowning glory — four square There are spotted, but save your selfies for later kilometres of green majesty above free-to-use — the island’s true appeal is in hopping the Swan River. Spend a morning public barbecues on the first boat (7.30am) from at the northern exploring: swathes of semi-wild end of the park Fremantle (rottnestexpress.com.au; native banksia bushland are carved if you fancy an 30min; £28 return), then hiring a bike with walking tracks, and primped-up al fresco lunch. (£17) and pedalling to a deserted beach sections include a treetop walkway Pick up supplies of your choosing. The white-sand cove at the Kakulas and the free Botanic Gardens (bgpa. Bros deli on of Little Parakeet Bay 7 is an ideal goal. instant wa.gov.au). Take time at the latter William Street to spot local flora, including hulking (kakulasbros. l One of Oz’s great wine regions, com.au) escapes boab trees and multi-coloured Margaret River 8 , lies just three hours flowering grevillea. from Perth. It has top surf beaches, caves to explore, wildflower- spattered clifftop hikes and forests of giant karri trees. Combine a winery with the wilds on a hosted day-trip to avoid driving (margaretriverdiscovery. First-timer’s Perth com.au; £118pp). This gateway to Oz is giving its bigger siblings a cool run for their money l You don’t have to go far to find Oz’s Outback-style landscapes. Don’t miss the Pinnacles desert 9 , 190km north With surfable sandy beaches, headily delicious wines and kangaroos for of Perth (about two hours’ drive), company, the city’s big on the iconic things you want from a Down Under with its moonscapes of bizarre, pointy rock formations. On the jaunt. Perma-blue skies make it perfect, and for urban buzz it gives way, stop to hand-feed kangaroos Melbourne a run for its money. Best of all, a new nonstop flight from at the Caversham Wildlife Park Heathrow gets you there in one go. So there, Sydney! By David Whitley (cavershamwildlife.com.au; £17; 10 ) or sandboard down giant dunes at Lancelin (lancelin.com.au; from £7; 11 ). Fit them in a tour (adamspinnacle tours.com.au; £104). > 134 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL NOVEMBER 2018 NOVEMBER 2018 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL 135 ✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I FIRST TIMER’S PERTH EAT DRINK & SHOP l Dairy beloved l Laneway cocktails FROMAGE ARTISAN (Mains about £5) THE CHEEKY SPARROW Because: Part wine bar, part cheese Because: The granny-floral settees shop, part dairy-obsessed restaurant, and bright stools fit with Perth’s new this place excels at masterclasses and ironic-chic image. The location on Wolf cheese-and-wine flights in an old Lane, the city’s street-art hub, helps. Perth bank vault. Travel’s tip: Order the HERE FOR Travel’s tip: The punchiest sip is the THE BEER 10-cheese toastie — it’s a revelation. Don’t just stick to £9 Bee Sting, with honey, bourbon, 101 St George’s Terrace, Perth; 00 61 8 cocktails and ginger and blueberry jam. 317 Murray 9321 6967, fromage.com.au; 12 . wine — WA’s St, Perth; cheekysparrow.com.au; 17 . craft-beer scene is booming. l Go native Hunt down the l Cellar-door special STABLE HANDS (Mains about £13) Nail VPA for a MCHENRY HOHNEN Because: Here, indigenous Aussie crisp, easy- Because: This Margaret River winery drinking brew flavours are done with finesse: expect serves biodynamic tipples and unusual the likes of bush yam puree with varietals. Travel’s tip: Most tours miss it, macadamia-encrusted kangaroo. but it’s on Harvest Tours’ (harvesttours. Travel’s tip: The wine list homes in on com.au; £60). 5962 Caves Rd, Margaret small Western Australian producers River; mchenryhohnen.com.au; 18 . — ask for suggestions. 8 Bannister St, Fremantle; 00 61 8 9430 7309, l To market stablehandsfremantle.com.au; 13 . FREMANTLE MARKETS Because: Craftspeople come in their l Warehouse wonder droves on weekends to sell jarrah BREAD IN COMMON (Mains wood chopping boards, opal jewellery about £13) and native plant teas. Travel’s tip: Look Because: Fluffy breads, chutneys, hot for the Alphabet Jigsaw Puzzles stall sauces and pickled veg for sale line — kids love its kangaroo jigsaws. South the shelves of a cavernous converted Terrace & Henderson St, Fremantle; warehouse. Much is cooked over a fremantlemarkets.com.au; 19 . wood-burning grill; the roast potatoes are ambrosial. Travel’s tip: Fancy a picnic? Scrummy sandwiches STAY l Nautical ‘n’ nice l Beach escape GET ME THERE (£6) are available for takeaway. 43 ASK THE l World heritage hostel THE HOUGOUMONT (Doubles PULLMAN BUNKER BAY (Villas GO INDEPENDENT Pakenham St, Fremantle; 00 61 8 9336 LOCAL FREMANTLE PRISON YHA from £113, room-only) sleeping two from £170, room-only) Qantas flies direct from Heathrow 1032, breadincommon.com.au; 14 . Clint Nolan owns several (Twins from £37, room-only) Because: Themed around the last ’ROO Because: Inside the Leeuwin- to Perth in 17 hours, from £779 return. WATCH bars and restaurants in Because: These former cells in the convict ship to visit Western Australia, Naturaliste National Park and facing Singapore Airlines flies from Heathrow the dynamic Perth Be careful when l Vine dining suburb of Northbridge must-see Fremantle Prison have been the Hougoumont’s wood-panelled driving up Cape the highly photogenic Bunker and Manchester, via Singapore, from VASSE FELIX (Mains about £22) converted into spartan twin rooms, rooms, inside converted shipping Naturaliste Road, Bay Beach, the Pullman’s limestone £727 return. Or try Emirates or Etihad. inside Leeuwin- Because: Margaret River’s oldest and while a former exercise yard hosts containers, are designed to look like Naturaliste self-catering villas are perfect for lazing largest winery does seasonal lunches The Good Fortune Roast volleyball courts and ping-pong tables cruise cabins. Travel’s tip: Max out on National Park, in (with your Margaret River wine GO PACKAGED on its perfectly positioned balcony. Duck House in Northbridge for guests. Travel’s tip: If comfort is the freebies, including fruit at reception, especially at night purchases). Travel’s tip: Look out for Discover The World (discover-the- Free wine samples are poured (goodfortuneduckhouse.com.au; more important than quirkiness, ask for and a daily wine-and-cheese hour — there are plenty bandicoots and ring-tailed possums world.co.uk) has a 12-night Whales TASTING of kangaroos, and downstairs. Travel’s tip: For a pretty NOTE mains about £12; 20) is my all-time a more spacious (still simple) en-suite (5pm to 6pm). 15 Bannister St, they’ve not read on the lush, multi-tiered grounds. and Wine of the South West fly-drive, view out over the vines, ask for a table Most winery favourite — it serves fantastic roast double in the new wing (from £54). 6A Fremantle; hougoumonthotel.com; 24. the Highway Code 42 Bunker Bay Rd, Naturaliste; including hotels and car from £1,345pp; on the left-hand side. Caves Rd & Tom restaurants are duck, it’s a slice of Chinese heritage The Terrace, Fremantle; yha.com.au; 6 . pullmanbunkerbayresort.com.au; 26. flights extra. Austravel (austravel.com) Cullity Drive, Margaret River; 00 61 8 open for lunch and you can bring your own beers. l Culture vulture has a six-day Perth and Margaret River only. At night, the 9756 5000, vassefelix.com.au; 15 . towns of Margaret Another find is Swallow Bar (swallow l Park life THE ALEX (Doubles from £124, B&B) l Push the boat out self-drive from £379pp, including car River and bar.com.au; 21 ) in Maylands, right TRIBE (Doubles from £89, room-only) Because: Sink-in sofas and board COMO THE TREASURY (Doubles hire and hotels; flights extra.