and Haute From the powerful spring at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse to the spectacular limestone gorges of Toulourenc and the mountain torrents of the valley, sun-baked Provence may be popular but it also has its secret places

61104 Gorges Vauclusede la Méouge and Haute Provence 105 NyonsNyons b 60 ba 60 a 59 20km59 north20km north 61 b 61 b d-1075 d-1075 20km north20km north a-51 a-51

d-546 d-546 a a

a-7 a-7 d-94 d-94 d-900a d-900a 62 62 d-942 d-942 b b Vaison-la-RomaineVaison-la-Romaine a 61 a 61 SéderonSéderon SisteronSisteron d-40 d-40 58 58 d-359 d-359 d-900 d-900 EntrechauxEntrechauxb 57 b a 57 a 63 63 d-946 d-946 Montburn-les-BainsMontburn-les-Bains d-22 d-22Draix d-977 d-977

d-942 d-942 20km 20km 65 65 Digne-les-BainsDigne-les-Bains d-938 d-938 65 65 c c Sault Sault a a ORANGEORANGE n-85 n-85 d-942 d-942 n-85 n-85 MormoironMormoiron a-9 a-9 CARPENTRASCARPENTRAS a-51 a-51 d-942 d-942 ForcalquierForcalquier

d-31 d-31

d-30 d-30 l’Isle-sur-la-Sourgel’Isle-sur-la-Sourge AVIGNONAVIGNON 64 a 64 a Vaucluse and Haute Provence d-900 d-900 d-900 d-900 Apt Apt 57 lower toulourenc 62 clues de barles A beautiful little river with intermittent pools running In Riezthis lively mountain stream there are natural jacuzzi a-7 a-7CavaillonCavaillon through a wild gorge, perfect for aqua randonnée and pools and rapids, with larger waterfalls upstream. b 65 b 65 children. Several ‘dinosaur’ discoveries were made here. 58 upper toulourenc 63 bouinenc and vabre CadenetCadenet d-973 d-973 d-956 d-956 An unexpected and amazing blue pool beneath a dried- An intriguing double-pool with a waterfall and strange Pertuis up waterfall, in an otherwise arid stream bed. striated rock formations in the pools below. 61 gorges de la méouge d-556 d-556 This waterfall and river pools by a Roman bridge in

66 60km66 west60km west Salon-de-ProvenceSalon-de-Provence d-7 d-7 Haute Provence are wonderful but popular. Head upstream for many more pools, mainly shallow.

a-54 a-54 50km 50km south south 66 66 AIX-EN-PROVENCEAIX-EN-PROVENCE 58 Upper Toulourenc above waterfall

58 Haut Vaucluse 57 lower toulourenc 58 upper toulourenc 60 gorges d’ubrieux lat long: 44.2150, 5.2140 lat long: 44.2172, 5.4249 lat long: 44.2931, 5.2803 walk in: 20 mins, moderate walk in: 3 mins, moderate walk in: 2 mins, easy Below the north slopes of A deep plunge pool below a dried-up Roadside pools and picnic tables the Toulourenc stream runs through waterfall in an otherwise parched beneath white cliffs with climbers narrow white gorges with caves, pools landscape. scaling dizzy heights. From Aulan (upper and gravel beds. ,,Continue 15km E and turn L from Toulourenc) turn L (D546) and continue ,,Turn off the D5 onto the D40 just D72/D542 at Montbrun-les-Bains. 1km 20km following the river Ouvèze to find This historic heartland – an area of fortified villages and before Mollans-sur-Ouvèze. After 1km before Aulan, and 200m before the road several pools near bridge 1km before fruit orchards irrigated by the Rhône and rivers – is turn R on D40A (dir Veaux) and park at bridge, find steps and large pool below. Buis-les-Baronnies. also an arid region. Many of the smaller rivers and gorges bridge (3km). There are pools beneath Scramble down dry waterfall ledge to a Col de l’Homme Mort is 2.6km back but carry on walking/wading upstream reach it. upstream at the road tunnel (D546, have dried up by summer, but there are many lakes, rivers to explore gorges and pools for up to 44.2985, 5.3081). Giant boulders poke and pools for refreshing dips off the beaten track. 6km. out of the river bed and down below, a Pont Romain is about 6km E / 59 cornillon-sur-l’oule the shallow blue river meanders away One of the few rivers to keep a constant flow in the region upstream (10km via D40), signed on R, lat long: 44.4647, 5.3687 from the road for a while. ! Le Canard is the Toulourenc, east of Vaison-la-Romaine, which has with a pool beneath (44.2131, 5.2557). Or walk in: 1 min, easy offers simple pitches by the river, 2km upstream. carved wonderful, white sinuous channels through the lower reach it by hiking from Veaux. Two managed lakes overlooked by the b Pont St-Michel is a popular swimming 57 Below the bridge limestone slopes of Mont Ventoux 57. From Pont Vieux 57b b Pont Vieux is downstream, off the ruins of the château with views of the D5 just W of the D40 turning (44.2217, mountains and the pretty artisan village location 12 km downstream (44.2288, there is a particularly wild and beautiful river walk, perfect for 5.1740). Head upstream 500m and the of La Motte-Chalancon nearby. 5.1363). It is shallow in late summer so a light aqua randonnée spent wading in the stream, walking bathers build dams and create pools. gorges begin beyond the Chapelle des ,,30km N of the Toulourenc. 7km N of Anges. 4km upstream from Vaison-la-Romaine along the bank and swimming through the deep sections the river Eygues on D61, via Rémuzat. 2€ on D205 going E, 1km from . where they occur. Many families bring their children to the entrance and music festival on the first Upstream ! Les Trois Rivières has good Wednesday in August. pools here and the stream is so popular with bathers that you riverside placements (E 04 90 46 01 72). will find hundreds of small stone dams across it by the end 108 Vaucluse and Haute Provence 109 60 gorges d’umbrieux

63 vabre double pool

57 lower toulourenc

123 name of place Picture caption caption here here

62a clue de

110 Vaucluse and Haute Provence 62 Pool on the Barles 62b Pool on the Bès

63 Upper Bouinenc of the summer. Some will also have been dismantled by those Haute Provence & Digne who care about the river’s fish population: if the water slows it 61 gorges de la méouge 62 clues de barles 63 bouinenc and vabre also heats up, which reduces oxygen and kills fish. lat long: 44.2775, 5.7930 lat long: 44.2136, 6.2754 lat long: 44.2136, 6.2754 walk in: 5 mins, easy walk in: 3 mins, moderate walk in: 3 mins, moderate Just to the north, Pont St-Michel on the Ouvèze 60b offers Very popular waterfall and pool for River pools amongst wild mountain The grey stratifications of the Bouinenc an aquatic refuge to the overheated swimmer and the upper jumping by Roman bridge. Set in scenery with ammonites and gorge offer dramatic scenery in a Toulourenc yields an unexpectedly huge pool under a dried-up spectacular limestone gorges. ichthyosaur imprints. remote setting. There are small pools waterfall 58. There is also good swimming along the dramatic ,,15km N from (D948) turn L ,,15km from Digne-les-Bains on D900A. and falls and the nimble can climb to a beautiful pool up in the Vabre ravine. Gorges de la Meouge, which is 30 kilometres to the east and on D42 dir Séderon. After 1.5km a track 600m before the first road tunnels take leads down to the bridge. The waterfall path down to the river, near sign boards ,,10km NE of Digne-les-Bains at a short drive north of the historic town of Sisteron. One of is above. The brave can jump from the where a small bridge crosses a tributary. Marcoux (D900) turn R onto D22 dir the gorge’s most popular spots 61 has a waterfall and an old top into a deep section in the middle, Draix. After 4km at the first hairpin bend 62b On the edge of the Bès a Clue de Verdaches is a further 7km, Roman bridge, with high jumps and large stretches of river to but take care. There are more pools beyond Barles and 200m before the to R, park and find path to the L down upstream with parking spaces and paths through woods to the river bed. 100m explore upstream. junction to (D7). Descend to a leading down. large waterfall beneath the road bridge upstream the Vabre ravine joins from the R. Scale the ledge to the R to find a In the Haut Provence region to the east, visit the Clues des a Rocher Coupé is 3km further with pools below (44.2715, 6.2998). Turn upstream, where the road cuts through L at the junction towards Auzet and find small double pool below a fall (44.1362, Barles 62 and discover a paradise of wild-water jacuzzi pools the rock. Climb down a very steep path even larger Saut de la Pie after 200m 6.3286). Alternatively continue up the and waterfalls, or make for Bouinenc 63 near Draix, a remote (on the upstream side of the Méouge) to (44.2733, 6.3003). ! Le Pont du Martinet river bed another 400m to explore small pools and, eventually, a waterfall with ravine with layered strata of flat rocks that contain the remains the shallow pools (44.2701, 5.7749). makes a pleasant place to stay ( E 04 92 35 14 67). small cave beneath (44.1359, 6.3329). of creatures from prehistoric oceans. The area around Barles is b Grand Buëch is 17km N on D1075. 1.5km N of Serres at a picnic area in a b Pools on the Bès Venture out across particularly rich in geological specimens: follow the path along layby on the D1075 find the site of an old the gravel beds. 2km N of the turning for the valley (‘empreintes de pas d’oiseaux’) and see great walls ruined weir (44.4419, 5.7132). La Robine off D900 (44.1709, 6.2526). of ammonities and other extraordinary fossils or head south to where one of the first ichthyosaurs – a giant dolphin-like lizard that roamed the seas 100 million years ago – was discovered.

112 Vaucluse and Haute Provence 113 67 Port Pin

64

67 67 In the southern Vaucluse, the small rivers can run dry and you Lower Vaucluse & the coast must make for artificial lakes and dedicated swimming areas 64 partage des eaux 65 étang de la bonde 66 petite rhône (plans d’eau), such as the pretty hilltop Étang de la Bonde 65, lat long: 43.9170, 5.0722 lat long: 43.7610, 5.5066 lat long: 43.57251, 4.40267 and the reclaimed gravel pits along the Durance or the Rhône walk in: 1 min, easy walk in: 2 mins, easy walk in: 2 mins, easy 65b. Much of the water that falls on the Ventoux, Lure and The river forms a shallow lake A very pleasant plan d’eau at the foot Enjoy a swim in the Petite Rhône while mountains actually seeps through the limestone above two weirs. Near L’Isle-sur-la of the Luberon. 10km from A51 (J15) via exploring the wonderful Camargue Sorgue with its waterside cafés. D956 (Pertuis) then D9 dir Cabrières- wetlands. The best stretch is on the rock into the great subterranean cave systems, with most of ,,Head out of town on Cours Fernande d’Aigues. D202, between Mas de Capette and Les it reappearing at ’s greatest ‘resurgence’, or spring, at Peyre (D938 dir Pernes-les-Fontaines), a Plan d’Eau des Salettes is a small Pradaux, accessed from D570/D38C Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, the source of the river Sorgue 64a and but turn R after 150m (D25, Av Voltaire lake with beach and lifeguards in the 25km SW of Arles. a massively powerful natural fountain. The pool, at the foot of Garcin) and continue 1.7km. Here the heart of vineyards, under Mont Ventoux, Sorgue forms a large pool and splits into 10km E of . Turn E off the a great cliff, is 315 metres deep and very cold, but be brave – a two at a pair of low weirs. Delightful, D184 at and continue 700m. 67 calanque d’en vau swift dip will leave you wonderfully invigorated. Afterwards mainly shallow spot with paddling, Free entry ( E 04 90 61 80 17) (44.0694, lat long: 43.2023, 5.4982 walk in: 60 mins, moderate 64a follow the Sorgue downstream to Le Partage des Eaux 64 canoes £ and a little beach on the far 5.1964). side. Eat at R La Guinguette. and l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, to enjoy lunch at one of the delightful b Étang du Camping Val de Durance is If you swim only once in the sea then a Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is 6km a large gravel-pit lake with beach next to choose Les Calanques de Marseille: waterside restaurants in Provence’s ‘Little Venice’. further upstream on the D25. The cave the Durance river bank and near Abbaye spectacular cliffs, narrow inlets, sea resurgence, one of the greatest in de Silvacane. 10km to the SW of Étang de caves and the only undeveloped part of If you would like to explore the coast, this is a good area to do France, is set in a huge hollow beneath a la Bonde. Open July and August with life the Côte d’Azur. Park at Port Miou/Port so. Head south to Arles and follow the Petite Rhône 66 as it cliff. Deep and cold, it’s worth a plunge if guards and entrance fee (3€). Off D973 des Calanques, the marina just on from winds through the wild Camargue. Or if you are looking for just you don’t mind the hordes of onlookers at then D943 (43.7177, 5.3557) !. Cassis (A50). Follow the GR98 1.2km, 30 (divers regularly explore the pool’s great mins to Port Pin with its pretty cove and one place to swim in the Mediterranean, make it the nature c Plan d’Eau Li Piboulo is an isolated depths).Resurgence is 15 mins along a lake on the edge of the Rhône just N inlet and lovely rocks for snorkelling reserve of the Calanques at Cassis 67. With translucent water, well-signed path from the village centre of Orange. 4km W of , off N7 dir (43.2040, 5.5109) or continue another spectacular cliffs, narrow inlets and sea caves, this is a place (43.9182, 5.1324). Canoes £ can be hired, Routes des Îles, just beyond the TGV 1.2km up on the GR98 again then bear L and further riverside areas explored, line. (44.1583, 4.7289). down to dramatic Calanque d’en Vau. of real adventure. 1km downstream of the village on D24.

114 Vaucluse and Haute Provence 115