VOL. XXI. No. 9 JUNE, 1946 THREEPENCE
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STOCKIST AGENTS: Unrivalled for Cuisine and Service Superb Cuisine makes the Clarence wellU:; 51 DAWSON STREET, unrivalled and nppetising. The 'ervice, too, which is prompt and courteous, will please the CUBLlN PHONE 71563/4 most exacting pntron. 'Phone 76178 The CLARENCE HOTEL Dublin P('I'hr8, ,11 i,"frs, rld/l/frS. Grills. l10l ClI"boar(k Wr, _ O'Keell.·s •• I RISH TRAVEL Official Organ of the Irish Tourist JU~ E, 1946 5/- per Annum Post Free from Association and of the Irish Hotels Irish Tourist Association, O'Connell Federation Vol. XXI No. 9 street, Dublin
Two New Ships for Irish English Crossing. The New Migration . . Two 3,000 ton Great Western Railway steamers are Evidence of the new migration, consequent on war III construction at Birkenhead to replace war losses on and taxation charges elsewhere, is seen in the demand the Fishguard-Ireland passage. It is hoped that they for country residences now in many parts of Ireland. may be in service in the late summer of 1947. In some centres even houses in a neglected condition have been acquired or rented at unexpected prices. Swimming Pool for Westport. A swimming pool and pleasure park at the Quay at Angling and Fly Casting Championships. \Vestport are to be laid down at a cost of about There will be a record entry of more than 150 frol11 £6,000. all parts of Ireland at this year's National Champion ships to be held on Lough Mask during the Whit Cannibal T....out. week end, reports Dr. H. A. Lafferty, Hon. Sec., I.T.F.F.C.C. ,'ir John Abercrombie, a visiting angler at Oughter ard, watched one of his boatmen take in a landing net what appeared to be a large pike devouring a small The late Mrs. Sheehy-Skeffington. ~sh. On examination, reports the Connacht Tribune, 3~ :\Trs. Sheehy-Skeffington who died recently at 1l proved to be a 9-pound trout with a pounds Dublin was a valued occasional contributor to IRISH trout in his mouth. TR,WEL, in which many charming and informative articles by he'r appeared. A woman of very wide Motor Car is Fox's Best Friend. interests and of striking ability and character, her loss "Though the hunted fox is quite una\\are of it. will be felt by the members of the many associations modern transport is his best friend. Should a motor in which she was actively interested. Readers wi,ll car travel along a road after he has crossed over he rccaI1 her last contribution, "J Remember Port should feel grateful to its driver. If the vehicle has marnock,' a very pleasant picture of a different Port had a recent re-fill of new oil, the fox should go back marnock, forty years ago. and thank the driver personally, The pungent odour emitted by a motor exhaust plays havoc with the sensi tive membrane of hounds' noses," wri tes M r. Stanis First Prize for Ireland. laus Lynch in his chapter: "Are Foxes Clever?" in " Whoever sleeps in Eire Echoes of the Hunting Horn, a delightful series of Wakes to wondrous breakfast fare," sketches and impressions. (The Talbot Press, 7/6). was one of the Browningesque couplets in a recent Much more than mere expert interest and in formation .John 0' London's Weely competition for wishful for ridel's and huntsmen is contained in the book, for thinkers in verse. True to Ireland's priority as a Mr. Lynch is good company, even for those who must holidays-choice of the day, the first prize-winner also follow the chase on foot or for that multitude of people who, more remotely, can only follow the hunt celebrated Ireland in his song: in print. " For the man that roams in Ireland Finds enchantment everywhere, ((Angling and Golf" Guide. \Vhen the dove-grey skies and the emerald land Ha\'e been touched anew by a faery wand." Just published, Angling and Golf (lrish Tourist Association, 1/-), in its 116 pages summarises all the up-ta-date information for anglers and golfers in the From an Australian Reader. 26 counties. From Adelaide, Australia, 1\11'. P. L. McCann writes: .r 1 .receive your paper regularly and enjoy Novelty at Lough Ree Regatta. both the artIcles an the illustrations in it. After 1 At the Lough Ree Yacht Club regatta, to be held have read it I post it to my friend, Mr. John Garrity, during the week commencing July 22nd. the dinghy \\,ho lives in Kapunda, a country town in this State. race for boats of a new de ign will be an added He came from Ennistymon, Co. Oare. My own featlll'e. Partly tacked, Bermudan rig. with main and father left Coleraine with his parents in 1850 for . foresails, the boats will be watch d with interest for Australia." (Mr. McCann's brother is Agent-General their reaction to Lough Ree conditions. for outh Australia in London). ROSS'S HOTEL
I Oh I THE SEA Dun I FROJ.,T with a Tradition Laoghaire of Excellence and a Reputation for its
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,,"'" ..... 1/5 Junc, 19-+6. IRISJ-II. TRAVEL Over The Backbone of Wicklow -with a Bike
s a newcomer to Dublin I had been admiring ration of bread-and-cheese washed down by a Jaffa from afar the mountains to the outh. For the orange-easily the sweetest viands tasted since my A nnivcrsal reasons that impel one to love high previous outdoor holiday. Then on in the fading light lands everywhere: for the additional reason that they past the sign which said "NoMotors Past Here." are the city's outlying defences against the rain Very soon the gradient changed in my favour, but I bearing S.W. winds. J had seen them in action found there might well have been a further sign- within recent months; beating off rapid-firing showers, infiltrating downpours and even heavy-calibre hail "No Cycles Past Here'" stone attacks, with not so much as a shrug of their Still, Sheet 16, " my !:lanner with a strange device," massive rounded shoulders or a bend 01 their broad assured me it was a military road. Here a wild tron backs. Occasional!y, of course, a hit-and-run raider gu!ly with sharp.edged rbcks jostling each other to did get through. form a barrier set with traps, there a "minefield" of A resolve to get to know them better; purchase of stray turf-sods-kick one-Ouch ! It's iron-bound to the i-inch Ordnance Survey Sheet 16, successful the roadway by frost! Bump one with your wheel diplomacy towards high places-and I was cycling (as I did) and off you come! A few yards on, and out through Rathfarnham on atur day afternoon, the 2nd March, free of duties till the Tuesday. Across the Moor to Glencree. " Cycling" soon meant pushing, hard and far. Even so, there was the Rreat treat, when pausing at each suc cessive hillcrest, of looking back and watching the capital spread out all round to its grass-green and sea-blue verges, the Wellington obelisk and cliffs of Howth always claiming most attention. Slowly the sign-posts ree~ed off, Glencree 8±-5t-3t; the road wound up, and up again. A hairpin bend, a stiff climb, the trees are left behind and J am pushing steadily in a wide semi-circle south ea twarcI over the bare moor to Glen- . cree itself. Tt is blowing hard up ~ here, visibility not so good-to the east the alp of An Cualann l\16r alone stands out among- the hazy g~ens. Tough going and worsening surfaces, winding up past this military highway threatens to fade into a pair of Loughs Bray (the one visible from the road is frozen rtl h-grown heep tracks. ovtr), across the Liffey-Head Bridge, and now J am For once Tonelagee (which 1 make free jn translate astride of Wicklow's vertebrae. as 'tern-to-the-\Vind) belied his name. An ogre among mountains, stooping, frowning, his snowy locks The Glistening Road. stiff-frozen, with icicles for his beard, he peered down The un is out, mica glisten in a million diamond Glenmacnass. into the very eye of the night-bringing points along the grey-black roarlway before me. wind! I feared () pass beneath that gaze, but there Gradually unfold the snow-dome of the central \Vick was no way out. l)ush on! Endure! At length I low mountains, 1\1 ul1aghcleevaun. 10anbane, Tone was. over the last lonR ridge and free-wheeling lagee, salmon-pink against a teel-blue sky, their lower cautiously towards Laragh, and on to my destination. slopes but lightly powdered here and there. The Sally Glendalough. Gap reached, I sat on a frozen turf-sod in the lee of Monday morning broke cold and white, the prevIous a snow-bound turf-rick while I atc my emergency evening's flurried promise had been made Rood. Snow [Continued overleaf. 176 IRISH TRAVEL June, 19-1o.
OVER THE BACKBONE OF WICKLOW. (Continued from previous page). nA COL~1rt=i lay everywhere, one beautiful inch deep, and clung to the sides of trees and walls. "Over the mountains to Dublin !" 1 vowed. 5Ae'6eALAcA CAlt:\,in: t:" 611 s<.\mRd'O bUAllt; 111111, A "DR1$I'O. Home via the Irish Dolomites. .o.o11~wn ueAtA Fe<.\SCA 'OOS 11<.\ 'OAowe <.\ $eol~Al'O FutRe<\C At Laragh, 3.30 p.m., I left the tarmac road. My
HE square stone house lookcJ ovcr the \\ ide panelled doors are carefully preserved; the parlour, valley, through which the River Avonll1orc with the exquisitely enamelled Italian mantelpiece, is T threaded its way past groves of birches and now a classroom, and in the diningroom, overlooking silver firs.... The gardens stretched down towards the valley, there is a museum of articles associated the river with the smooth lawns over-shadowed by with Pamel!. Thanks to the initiative of Mr. Deegan giant beech trees and azaleas blazing amidst the of the Department, to the sympathy of Mrs. Warwick, larches. With its kennels and stables, its summer who purchased Aughavanagh, the Parnell shooting house and cricket pavilion, Avondalc was the typical lodge, from the Redmond family, and restored from it domain of the well-to-do 1rish land!ord, unpretentious so many items to the Parnell home for safe-keeping; and comfortable, dignified without having any claims and to the interest of Mr. M. 0 'Beirne, the inspector to architectural beauty." This is Joan Haslip's thumb in charge of the modern Avondale, we can now see nail sketch of the home, 50 years ago, of Charles beneath his own roof many little items that are dear 'tewart Parnell, the centenary of whose birth takes because they were his very own, such as his pipe and place on 27th June, that home where John and Delia smoking cap, the chair he occupied at meetings of the Parnell raised a family of deven children. their Land League, addresses received from his people all seventh, Charles, destined to become the famous over the country, his famous last manifesto, as well leader. as photographs, newspaper cartoons, medals, the mourning cards that were laid upon his grave and the To-day 2S students of the Forestry Department flag that draped his coffin on the 11th October, 1891. learn the practical side of their career amidst the woodlands, nurserie and plantations of the truly -Po J. OONAN. national estate, and, indoors, where the Parnells received. thev studv. and where the famih- retircd. . ,.. RV H TO FILM AND PHOTOGRAPH IRELAND
j reland is being filmed and photographed as never before. In addition to the big producers of feature Jill1ls such as "Henry the Fifth," " Hungry Hill," .. Black arcissus," etc., who have come to Ireland "on location," producers of travel films are arriving and many others are laying their plans for early .. shooting" here. Among those whose units are already operating are Pan-American Airways, at work on a colour picture to be shown in U.S.A., Canada and other countries, and Ir. Pat Stanton of Phila AVONDALE. delphia. also producing in colour, whose previous film ." Here is Ireland,'.' made in ]?39, \\:as ~n outstanding they al 0 sleep. That long, circling a\enue. bon.1t:I:ed success and has sll1ce been clrculat1l1g- 111 the United by its stately beech, elm an I oak passes the remall1s '-tates and Great Britain. Early in June, the United of the pond that John and Charle dug out.; passes :\Iotion Pictures, London, wilI be at work on a film of round the granite-porched, square house to Its bow t~e Highlands O! Donegal an? plans are in prepara windowed rear which looks over entrancing scenery tIOn by InstructIonal Entertamment Films London' of mountain and valley and river, a sheer 200 feet Rainbow Productions, Ltd., London, a;d Rritisl~ below its gardens. Films for other pictures here. 11 ~land has bu n "discovered," too, as an El Souvenirs of The Chief· Dorado o~ colour photographers, and "stills" are at Entering the house, one is strucl~ by .the exp~n.sive; present b~mg shot by Pan-American Airways, Trans beautifully proportioned hall, wIth Its mUSICIans \Vorld Airways, "Time and Life," Mr. Pat Stanton's gallery in the wall opposite, and by its six panell.ed. a~1c1 o.ther units. Realising the importance of this mahogany doors that lead into the interior. The nch plctonal photography, the l.T.A. is of course co decorations of the drawingrooll1 wall and gbss- operatincy fully in the e activities.
11 . June, 1946. IRISH TRAVEL 179
#~~~~#######**##H#**#*#*#*######*#####~ I By PATRICIA BOYNE I ~ ~ Unusual ...++++++++...++++++++++++.... ++++++++++++++++++++++++...++.. ++++++++++.....++++++# • Sight-seeing In Dublin.
)TELS and Guest Houses have a way of getting in the open sea. And the Lighthouse itself is like booked out very quickly these days. One must Land's End, at the very edge of things, where huge H be an early bird to realise, in full, the desired waves break up great granite slabs as if playing with vacation. But if you're a Dubliner and find yourself shells. From here you'll get a new view of the Port -to quote our American friends-" caught on the of Dublin and also of Dublin Bay from Howth to the wrong foot" for a bank holiday week-end or for a '''ficklow mountains flanking Bray. But if it's a misty few days at either end of your summer holiday, you day, don't stand against the lighthouse wall, unless can readily convert the disappointment into a stimulus your nerves are steady. The foggy air may cause the of pleasant, out-of-the-way sight-seeing tl'ips in your horn to boom suddenly and frighten you headlong into own city. One of the high spots of these novel trips the sea. was a visit to Dublin Airpo\'t at Collinstown. A four penny bus ride from the heart of the city brings one Children's Hour. to the big signpost at the crossroad, a mile or less from the Airport. Another novel" trip" was meant to be a tour of all the Play Centres in the City. I started at Broadstone The Airport. and spent the whole evening there. Piggy-beds were, as always, in season. So were skipping and swinging. It's quite a thrill to see the very modern white aero That was one time, of many, when I regretted my drome dominating thousands of acres of green fields. inability to sketch, to capture in a few strokes of pen A pass (got from Aer Lingus Teoranta) sees you or pencil the spirit of the Playground. Children sing through the main gate. Thence you walk up a ing, shouting, fighting. Both sides appealing to me as flowered pathway to the chief block of buildings: wi tness: ,. She hit me first, didn't she, Missus ?" Offices, Travel Bureaux, Restaurant and Dance Hall, "Eh, Missus, show us yer watch"; and the com Customs Section, Cafe and Lounge. Everything is ment: "Me aunt's is far nicer." Worst of all, when I slick, streamlined, competent-and comfortable. As was talking to one group and backed inadvertently you take a cup of coffee in the lounge, planes come into two little girls (of nine-ish) deep in conversation: and go constantly outside the large, sliding window "Mind where you're gain', auld wan." panes. Pilots are directed inwards and outwards from the control tower which tops the building. Three More Novelties. huge new concrete runways are being laid down to replace the grass ones. The air of moderI1ity, A few more samples, tried and proven, from my efnciency and courtesy everywhere combines with list. Go" back-stage " after a show or, if you have a tasteful design and pleasant surroundings to make you friend in the caste, see the whole thing from the other yearn to travel by air, immediately. The casual side of the footlights. J did this once when the Long visitor leaving Collinstown says to himself: "I must ford Players were giving a thriller at the Gaiety; it's see Rineanna." ., something new and strange." Get permission to see through Radio Eireann and to be present in a studio during broadcast. lance made part of a small The Seaport. audience hearing" Question Time" from the studio. Another port worth seeing is the Port of Dublin, at Go to the" dogs" some night (unless you are a con its very entrance beside Poolbeg Lighthouse. How firmed follower) and collect your impressions if not many Dubliners have been to see the narrow strait your winnings. Make a tour of some factory-per here through which every boat entering or leaving haps the best of all is a bakery, where you can see the harbour must pass? ]t's a grand walk or short how our much-maligned daily bread is manufactured. cycle ride from Ringsend. Pigeon House Road leads These are some few. am~les of new things to do, new down along the riverside, past the sewerage system places to go "'hen time lies on your hands and holi to the E.S.B. generating station at Pigeon House day spirit is in the air. I must quote one more. When Fort. Rounding this settlement of tall chimneys ever you have a pare hour or two, make for the belching black smoke, you hug the boundary wall until National ~ibrary. I go there, meaning to cover a you emerge at the long stone pier running above the vas~ field III an afternoon. I leave it, reluctantly, sea on both sides. Half-way to the Lighthouse is the havlllg regaled myself the whole time in the news Half Moon Club (for men only) where any day of papers' section, reading what happened day after day the year finds a couple of hardy members swimming a hundred years and more ago. PLAN for • erVlce-IS PROBABLY THE PERFECT most essential desid eratum in the efficient running of an hotel. Happy is the FLOORS hotel proprietor whose guests comment favourably on the service his house provides.
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Arks June, 1946. IRISH TRAVEL 181
IRISH AMULETS AND CHARMS I By REX McGALL I
UPERSTITION is not a thing of yesterday. It foils witches' spells. Heated iron will ward off the is very unlikely that it will disappear in the bean sidhe and there are numerous properties S streamlined era ahead. It i a universal con a - ociated with the forge and the implements used ~rete expression of human hope and optimism which there. 1~ common to every age. Even this materialistic age A miniature coulter and sac, specially made by the of press-buttons and machinery has given birth to its smithie, if hung about a child's neck will cure chin own. superstitions as any airman will tell you if you cough, while a harrow-pin will cure convulsions. A are 1I1terested. steel scissors borrowed by a person will make for good In Ireland many of the charms or amulets used luck at the fair. A concealed needle brings profitable seriously or otherwise date back to a common world " hands" at cards; it also brings good luck at the fair, wide civilization and are tied up in the ancient rites and when worn under the collar of a coat will give of Adonis. Others have resulted from a mixture of protection against fairies. paganism and Christianity, a peculiarity which will be Throw an old shoe after a person for good luck and easily understood by anyone who realises that a tie it to the car of a newly-married couple to make religious conviction of centuries will not be completely sure of a long and happy married life for them with a overthrown in a few days or even a few centuries. large family. But bury an old shoe in your neigh Even in this Twentieth Century in Christian Irel ,~ - I GREAT NORTHERN ' RAILWAY HOTELS For COMFORT, CUISINE AND SERVICE BUNDORAN Co. DONEGAL On the shores of Donegal Bay. f Championship Golf Links. t Telephone: 2-1, Photooraph of /he lounoe at Hearne's 11o/e!. Clnnmel. FlLrnJshed ~y Arnolts llD/el, Service •.. GREENORE CO, LOUTH .i!" On Carlingford Lough. Golf Links. . Telephone: 3 NORTHERN mELAND. ARNOTTS ROSTREVOR Co. DOWN Hotel Service On Carlingford Lough. Golf Links. Mild and Sheltered. ARNOTTS · HENRY ST. · DUBLIN Telephone: (j Janus 183 June, 1946. IRISH, TRAVEL. .~- An Englishwoman in IreUand By NANCY DAWSO r has often been said that those English who settle in Ireland become more Irish than the Irish them I selves; in fact it became necessary at one time for the English to pass certain laws to prevent this from happening. From this one might imagine that every Englishman who has lived in Ireland has never wished t? leave it. This is not strictly true; I have met Eng hsh people who have never ceased to bewail the Irish ~isregard for Time during a!1 the years they have hved here. In them the age-old gulf between the Anglo-Saxon and the Celt will never be bridged. I remember sitting one morning on a coil of rope in a small shop in the west of ]reI and and after an English visitor had bustled in and made his purchases without any of the usual prolonged conversation, the shop keeper remarked: "What ails than fella, isn't the who~e day before hirp ?" The time Complex. That is the attitude which the English VIsitor to Jreland finds so hard to under tand; he cannot real ise that in this country we have, like Alice in \Vonder land, " all the time there is." \\That better atmosphere could be found for a holiday, or for a lifetime? Rut it is more than a leisurely tempo of existence which On a Strand in the West. ha charmed those of us who have fallen under the spell of Ireland. \Ve are enchanted by the country side; the towering mountains of the West with their magic b~ue haze; the lonely stretches of bogland and its clear pools shining in the sunlight; the placid green ON THE TRAMORE FRONT. fields of the Midlands; the little town with blue smoke curling up from the chimney. Gi ven such a heritage how could the people of such <1 country fail to captivate us? They are as full of contrasts as the lights and hadows on their- moun tains; they are hardworking and carefree, shre\\'d and gcnerous, inquisitive and kindly, charming and sincere. They combine the live~y imagination of the poet with the calm and enduring philosophy of a people whose lives are reg"ulated by the rhythm of sced-time <1nd harvest. Happy Landing. T came to Ireland six years ago, a stranger in a strange land, and the Irish \\'elcomed me into their homes and made me feel that 1 \\'as one of themselve . 1 have rejoiced with them in their' good fortune and mourned with them in times of sorrow. J have sat on creepy stools and listened to old tale told in the glow of turf fires. J have ridden to fairs in ass-carts. I have learned to card "'oo! and to handle turf in the hog. 1 have shopped in Grafton Street and listened to the witty conversation of the Dublin intellectuals. Yes I am one of the fortunate ones \"ho has fallen under'the spell of Ireland and I could wish for nothing better than to spend the rest of my life in this land of mountain and bog and small green fields and among the gaiety, the laughter and th~ tears of its warl11- Men at Work with Sentry posted. hearted people. 184 IRIS!! TR. WHL Jline, 1946. In Pleasant Seaside Places Courtown Harbour, Co. Wexford. Ardmore, Co. Waterford. June, 1946. IRISH TRAVEL 185 Cashel Without~~~~~I· RB~yseJaCkson I Rev. Dr. ---The Rock OMEONE once wrote a book called .. Johnson Agar, and a rare example of the \vork of the cele Without Boswell "-a biography of the Great brated maker, Greene. The Chapter Library houses S Bear of Fleet Street compiled without the use a large col~ection of sixteenth to eighteenth century of the famous Life. Something the same could be books, presented in 1740 by Archbishop Bolton-one done for Cashel, for the City of the Kings is one of of the most interesting and least known libraries in the most interesting small towns in Ireland, quite the country, with a number of exceedingly scare apart from the amazing crown of buildings on St. volumes. Add to all these things a glimpse of the old ~a~rick's limestone crag. Here is a sug-g-estion for the Charter School by the Rock, and you will have com VISitOr. Try exploring old Cashel itself. Few people piled an interesting symposium of eighteenth century do it, but it will be a rewarding adventure. Cashel. tart in the Square-that vast attractive main Ancient City Walls ·treet with its gay colour-washed row of houses presided over by Ryan's Hotel, a charming old build At this point the explorer will discover the ancient mg, looking for all the world like an amiable early city walls, large fragments of which can be traced Victorian terra cotta dog. Explore those enticing around the old town, as similar fortifications can be in little entries which lead into back-yards, and which how you centuries of domestic architecture fused into a queer jig-saw of styles. (There is no better \\'ay of seeing an old town than to look at the backs of hou es, for there antiquity survives where it has been refur bished out of existence on the street front). isit the old Town Hall and ee the Caroline and Wil!iamite charters. Glance at the mediaeval tower in the Main Street, where the town clock once ticked. made by that seventeenth century {( Little SmlMtel Barrington, that great Undertaker; of famous Citties clock and chime maker," whose epitaph still exists in St. :-Iary's Cathedral, Limerick. The Deanery Then visit the Deanery, formerly the Archbishop's Palace, built in 1730 by Dean Swi ft' friend, Theo philus Bolton. This is a very handsome example of HORE ABBEY. the transition of Queen Anne architecture to early Georgian, with some very fine interior panelling and carved woodwork. In the grounds is one of the oldest Fethard. The biggest section is that bounding part of mulberry trees in Irelan.d, planted, it is said, to mark the churchyard. Inserted in niches in the wall are two remarkable effigies of crusaders in chain mail the coronation of Queen Anne in 1702. The tree has head~ one curious property. It does not b~ossom until all matched by their wimpled ladies in Norman dang-er of frost has gone and so is a sure weather dress. guide. Even yet the interest of Cashel without the Rock is Opposite the entrance to the Deanery is Bishop not exh.austed. For in four-square dignity the grey Street, with its old-world Crawfordian residential walls ot Hore Abbey, sheltered in the plain beside the houses, leading to the Cathedral. Here ag-ain many Rock, and not a stone's-throw from the town cross things of interest are to be seen. The Cathedral is a arc the rer:tains of ~he Dominican Abbey, with th~ graceful Georgian church with a beautifullv pro tr Training W orlkers for Hotels the ~wen~y-six. Countie. are already entitled to a "'eek s paid holiday; later, it may be expected, to be T Courtown HO~lse, G.orey, luncheon. was served extended to two weeks. Between 5,000 and 6,000 to fifty guests, 1I1c1uc1l1lg many publIC represen A catering establishments need staffs and employment IS tatives by girls in training for hotel employment assured for the next J1ve years. under the 1rish Tourist Board's training .cheme. The This was the most practical effort of vocational Rev. J. M. Butler, c.c., Chairman, Co. Wexford edu~ation Educational Committee, said that the 1.T.n. did a they had had for twelve years, said 1\1 r. very far-seeing thing in this cheme Even the most J)el11s. Alien. T.D. 1\Jiss 1\. O'Ryan, M.C.C., in com I~en.dlllg splendidly built and luxuriously furnished hotels set the good work, hoped that dependance on p~aces in lovely scenery would fail unle s the staff was thc tlPP1l1g would be abolished in hotels and other by the grant of a deccnt wage. right one. In this country, tourist schemes "'ere in the initial stages of deve~opment and they hal! a lot of Loo_ _ .. _ _ .. _ 0:- .. leeway to make up-a bad old tradition was in evid ence still. :'Iany of thei r hotels and caterina estab lishments had the idea that train as they w~nt was AT CASHLtA., CONNEMARA. sufficient and that the squeezing of the maximum of work for the minimum of pay wa good business. Living conditions of the domestic staff bordered on the primitive. Tourist Board's Example. The Tourist Board introduced a temporary measure to establish some hotels of its own in an endeavour to cater for the expected vast expan ion in tourist traffi . They had a golden opportunity now of creating ne,·.. standard~'" for imitation by others. lIe would like them to be in the very effective position of saying in their visit of inspection-" Come along and 1 will show you what J mean. You can see it is practised in our own establishments." Privately-owned estab~ishments that he knew of were at the moment adopting a very en lightened and up-ta-date policy in that regard, but they were all too rare. Three reforms were essenti2.l, decent hours, wages and living conditions. House in " The Rockies." New Source of Employment. l\f r. Thomas Condon, Director, LT. B., . aid the\' THE POET SPENSER. were glad that the scheme had met with such success. This dt.velopment provided a new source of cmploy 1\lr. Roland M. Smith, of the Univel'sity of lllinois, ment for many pupils of vocational chools for \\·hol11. U.S.A., writes: " 1 cannot subscribe to the caption in on finishing their courses, the field was sOl]1ctimcs a Jn [.'n TR,\ V EL-' Spenser Longed for London.' on the restricted one. ft open d up another nVU1t1C of pos contrary it is all too certain that Spenser was only sible activity and prosperity. too glad to return to Ireland after his visit with 1\J r. David Harr\', General :'fanager. 11 ish Tourist Haleigh to the English Court." 1\T r. Smith is plan Association. said that half a million wage enrners in ning an carly visit to Ireland. BALDOYLE RACES June 8th and 10th, Saturday and Monday (Whitsuntide) STEEPLECHASE, FLAT and HURDLE RACES .. SIX RACES EACH DAY .. £3,300 IN STAKES. POPULAR PRICES OF ADMISSION TO STANDS AND ENCLOSURES. LUNCHES, TEAS and REFRESHMENTS SERVED IN ALL PARTS. TRAIN SERVICE FRml AmE:lIS STREET-EARLY TRAVEL DESIRABLE. MOTOR CARS Charge 2'6 to Enclosures.-The New Car Park on the WiIlie Nolan Road is open for all cars from Dublin direction-Cars from Malahide ar.d Portmamock will park in tbe Old Motor Enclosure on the Shore Road-No Cars will bo allowed In the People's Park but must park In the appropriate Enclosure. EntranCf" to all enclosurec; from l"i ther Car Farks. Attendants will bp in attendance to give dirf'ctions to Driver", The complete co-operation of all drivers is Tequestf"d. No person will be allowed to remain in either Car Parks during- racing except on business. Cars will not be allowed to Park infront or above or below the Race Course Enclosure. Cars from Dublin direct'on will not be allowed to pass the Stands during Racing period. Free Cycle Park. Horse Boxes in tbe New Enclosure onI}. RACE CARDS.-Race Cards will be on sale in all tbe Stand Enclosures and also in the Car Park. The official price is 6d. each and any attempt at overcharging by vendors should not be encouraged. PEOPLE'S PARK.-Admission to People's Park by Sbore Road Gates only except for Patrons parking Cars in the New Car Park who may enter from the Gill's Field entrance. ]87 June, ]946. FROM AN ACHILL B)' SEAN 0 RUADHAIN. ~======~~~M0UNTAIN TOP HE day opens inauspiciously. lia?h Mo: stan? now the only inhabited island of the group, if we except lighthouses on some others. Sean 0 Gac~ain, "monarch" like a shrouded ghost, enveloped III whIte mIst T from tip to toe, eerie, awe-in piring. And this i of the island, is head of the solitary family now remain the morning we had set aside for the conquest of this ing, Sean being a lineal descendant of Eochaidh Muigh monarch of the Achill Mountains! The local mheadhon, Ard-Ri of Ireland in the fourth century. " meteorologist" tells us, however, that " the day will Clew Bay, studded with islands, is but a short distance lift," and'we have often found him, though he has never away beyond Mallaranny. On its southern shore, seen a barometer, much more accurate in his progno ti Croagh Patrick, the Mecca of the Gael, stands grim and cations, at least in so far as Achill weather is concerned, gaunt, a perfect cone. Like a gigantic shark basking than the official forecasts. in the sun Innisbofin floats athwart the entrance to And" lift" it does. The white mantle begins to roll the Killaries. 'It was on this wind-swept island t. gradually up the face of the mountain, its pace Colman founded his monastery, after he had resigned accelerating as the sun climbs towards the meridian. the Abbacy of Lindisfarne, owing to his obstinate refusal At last only a tiny skull-cap remains. uddenly even to abide by the decision of the Synod of Whitby (660) on this vanishes, as if snatched away by a magic hand, and the Paschal controversy, and where he himself was the the sun shines out in all his glory, flooding the majestic chief advocate of the Old Computation. mountain with brilliq.nt sunlight. We begin the ascent, and a stiff climb of an hour and a quarter brings us to Clare Island the topmost pinnacle. Though we may not feel quite Clare Island, one-time fortress of the Connacht sea as thrilled as " Cortez, when, with eagle eyes, he gazed queen, Grainne ;-;i ~Ihaille, whose visit to the Virgin on the Pacific," it must b admitted that we stand [ContinuN] on page 191 entranced at the magnificent panorama which bursts upon our astonished vision. To the west the broad Atlantic shimmering in the noon-day sun, with not a ripple on its placid bosom! To-day it is in meditative mood, a rare phenomenon on our Western sea-board. To-morrow, nay, even to-night, it may be hurtling its mountainous breakers against the iron-bound coast, in its eternal onslaught .on the beetling cliffs. Blacksod Bay Without a Ship At the foot of the mountain, stretching far north wards to Belmullet. lies Blacksod Bay. Here the Mullet shoots out a giant, gnarled arm to clasp the waters of the Bay, thereby protecting it from the fury et wind and wave, and making it the safest anchorage in Europe. To-day it is a thing of beauty, with the mighty mountain mirrored in its ample boso~, ~ut ~ ithout a solitary sail to break the monotony of Its WIde C'xpanse. Beyond the narrow strait which connects Blacksod Bay with the ocean is the hamlet of Faulmore with its holy well. Here, according to .the legend, wa enacted the final episode in the tragIc story of the Children of Lir-one of the Three orrows of Storytelling -when the spell laid upon them by their stepmother having been broken by the coming of Christian.ity, they regained their human form, an~ .were .baptlzed and buried by the newly-arrived Chnstlan mIsSIOnary. Holy Well not for Women Dotted along the coast. west of the Mullet, are the islands of Inniskea north and south, Devlaun, Black Rock, Eagle Island, and Innisglora. Innisglora, besides a holy well from which women are forbidden to. take water, contains the ruins of a monastery, founded III th sixth century by St. Brendan, the Navigator. It is SLIEVEMORE ABOVE DUGORT STRAND. 188 IRISH TRAVEL June, 1946. Dublin Eight Days from Holyhead r Fishing \... The regu~ar daily air-crossings Dublin-Liverpool to day take only one hour flying time. Time has marched on since Lord Castlcreagh. the architect of the Act of Union between England and Ireland in 1800 told a different story in ant' of his letters to his Tackle wiie: Holyhead, 10th October, 1800. • "We sailed yesterday morning at six o'clock. with an adverse wind; at the end of twenty hours we had lS scarce • • • • advanced but 7 leagues, and then found the wind freshening and directly in our teeth. We were al~ f"\ sick, but my mother so severely as to make us appre OGDEN SMITHS hensive that her strength was unequal to bear the • suffering for 48 hours longer, which seemed the then have more than probable duration of the passage. Under these cir cumstances Captain :f.~urness advised our return. And most much as I should have wished to persevere, I could not urge it in the state my mother was. She has been in bed since we landed this morning at 6 0 'clock, and will not be able to attempt it again before to-morrow UNIQUE HOUSE FOR CASTS, morning-. SILKWORM GUT OR NYLON Sunday, 13th October. OUR OWN MAKE, SPECIAL·KNOT, "This is the fifth day of our captivity. and as yet SEVERE TESTING. ] have but imperfect prospects of being released.... There is a circulatin~ Iibrary here consisting of fOll r hooks. three of which are now in our possession. The c' SEA TROUT AND SALMON CASTS. S:zes: 10/5 9/:1 8/~ 7,5 (\/5 5/5 4';,) 3/5 2/5 1/5 Gut 4/- 4'6 5/6 6:6 8/6 10/6 12'6 156 17:6 21/ Nylon 3'- 3,'6 4/- 4'6 5,- 5,6 6:- 66 7,- 76 All 3 Yards long. PRICE LISTS FREE, also the " MERMAID" nOOK OF FLIES 700 Patterns. ::150 Flies illustrated in colours. OGDEN SMITHS LTD. FISHING TACKLE MANUFACTURERS 61 - ST. J AM ES'S - 5 T REET PICCADILLY, LONDON, S.W.1. SELO Telephone anll Tclcgrnms: Regent 2612 FIL MS IRISH TI>?AVEL 189 The Flower-Seeker • r ...... ~ln L~BY E found them at the end of the long drive One of the beguiling riddles for the botani t is the from Dublin to Clare in the long sun-shafts journeying of plants, the sudden arrival of a million W of evening, for we had come in quest of tho,se refugees, as for example, the ma sed purple and gold very jewels, blue and shining, that grew on every that burst over all the blitzed areas in England, when bank of the foothills of the Burren. The jewels I-{osebay and the Oxford Ragwort came gloriously to V\~ere the million flowers of the Spring Gentian (G. every bombed city, making such a pageant among the Verna) which revels in this limestone region. And ruins. These are two noted emigrants. But what had cushioning the hills, clothing the stone was another brought Erinus Alpinus to a boulder on Black Head? ~reas~re-l\1ountain Avens (Dryas Octopetala) with As a little purp~e rock plant it flourishes on walls and Its t1l1Y oak-like leaves, it daisy faces which later gard ns in cultivation and I find it recorded as spread turn to little grey heads of wind-blown hair. These ing itself near COI'k-but the coast of Clare meant a two delights needed no seeking, they greeted us on long journey. Was it due to one of those venture every side. But the wild maiden-hair fern hid in the some people who sow seeds by the wayside to bewilder crannies and waited to be sought. By some heaven the botanist? But the gay and careless amateur guided chance one of us strayed off the road into a rejoices in all he finds. little valley where willow-warblers sang and where Aladdin in Co. Leitrim. the Potentilla (fruticosa) bloomed profusely while it There i another district where Alpines grow, a shunned the rest of the neighbourhood. 0 many rare strange litt~e cutting enclosed by rocks up on the moun things in this windswept world made their roots fast between the limestone blocks that formed pavements tain side in Glenade, Co. Leitrim. Going there alone J found it hard to reach the treasure house I knew on the terraced plateaux of Blackhead. only by description. I felt like Aladdin searching for ~eeing H Dante Might Have Dreamed" his cave. a man in the loneliness of the hill Dante might have dreamed of the Burren of Clare. side I hailed him. One of the Irish travelling saints, poet as so often " Did you ever see people looking for plants here? " they were, could have made an Irish Purgatorio of asked him. this wind-bitten and stony land. In moonlight it lies "Would it be herbs-for medicine maybe?" white and cold, its grey circles fit for the souls of " Not exactly. There might be a party of people-" those who climb towards Heaven. Now in the sun .< An' they searching on the ground? " light it wa a Paradise for flower-seekers. Up on the " Very likely. Where did they go ?" high ridge of Black Head the beauty of distance might " Do you see them black cattle beyant ?" take the watchful eye from its quest, beguiling it to " Yes." look across to the Aran Islands lying out to sea, or to "'Twould be round about there I seen the like 0' the mountainous coast of Galway. Then some treasure "'hat you say." would lie underfoot and draw the eyes to ground Sure enough the black cattle were the moveable again. The little orchis, Neotinea intacta was one and clye to suc~ delights as Silene acaulis, the moss cam Pyrola media was not another, fOI- I sought it long plan, that ltttle cushion of green with pink flowers, and vainly. More temperately exciting finds were the and such fern~ a the gr~en Asplenium and the Holly Torthern Bedstraw (Gallium Boreale) and the Hoary fern. The Chlck\'.eed WIllowherb T did not find from ~ rockrose. Another quest was for the Pyramid Bugle. sheer ignorance that I should be searching for rare Three seemingly insane tourists crawled on all fours mem.ber of a family so given to poor and very common over the limestone terrace for half-an-hour but not a relatIOn. Those whose gardens are infested by the Bugle was still in flower. broad-leaved: the Boar.y and the Pale Willowherb., may not r~allz~ that I:pI!obium Al inefoliul11 is a very London Pride at its Proudest. noble COUSIll at ral a bIrth and breeding. Those pleasant little sCLxifrages were to OUI' hand. To those .":ho would travel in lreland with an eye the Rue-leaved, the Purple, the Mossy. And you who o,bser,,:ant. at Its flowers may I advise for books, " The only know" London Pride" in a neat little border in Botamst 111 Ireland," by Dr. Lloyd Praeger, or for a a smoky town garden cannot dream what it means as smaller book for Western travel "Flora of the West Saxifraga umbrosa, making green and red and pink of rreland.:' by the same autho;. There is another carpets, fit for the gods, on boulder and rocldace a it book on .Insh plants by Dr. Webb. So, good luck to does in western and southern Ireland. the huntmg ! ·· ·· ···..··..··············..······· · · 1" II ROCKFIELD OPEN YEAR ROUND ! ! I I BOOKING to< 1946 SEASON I H t 1 Fully Licensed. I =,l Now Controlled by I 0 e 'Phone: Brittas Bridge 2. I R. T. KILLIAN. I f For Terms Apply:-MISS C. CARR, Manageress. BRI1~TAS BAY t !~ ....- -. '~' ~~,,,.:~/ - rrllc~ ,( ~'VJ: \ 'tRio CAVf.NDlSH w~y . lAe~aac?lo~ ROT"f.L FURNISHING ...... -..... _ t ~ T~ • t MUNS~~ o~ce:L~I~~E!!~~!, Ltd. I OVER 200 BRANCHES AND SUB-BRANCHES 1 Comprehensive BANKING & FOREIGN EXCHANGE Service DUBLIN BRANCHES: DAME STREET O'CONNELL STREET GRAFTON STREET INcmCORE PHIBSBORO PEMBROKE DONNYBROOK RATHGAR DRUMCONDRA BAGGOT STREET RATHFARNHAM CRUMUN I~~..~~ _ ..~~.~~ ..~~~.~_ _..~..~~~~ :~~~~~~._ _::::~::~::~:~ J June, 19-1-6. IRISH TRAVEL 191 FROM AN ACHILL MOUNTAIN TqP (Continued fro III png' 187). Sell us your Queen Elizabeth is so well known, lies a dozen miles o~f- hare; and across an arm of Blacksod Bay we (hscern Ballycroy where l\faxwell wrote his Wild Sports ofthe West, and the Dark Ladv of Doona. Doona Castle, "HO' IDAY , wh?re, tradition states, Graiime (the Dark Lady) once ... reSIded, stands sentinel at the extreme point of Ballycroy overlooking Tallaghan Bay. Awav in the distance to Photographs the south-east the Connemara Mountains sprawl across the land cape like a colossal cathedral, with their twelve dome-shaped peaks. Overlooking the Atlantic, Tm: ]. T. A. IS prepared to purchase perched llke an eyrie on a shoulder of Cruachan photographic negatives depicting (preferably) Mountain, is Corrymore House, now open to gue. ts, and Beach 'cenes, Hiking, Cycling, Recreational and 'porting subjects. PRlNTS O:i'LY TO BE SUBMITTED IN TH!:: l'IRST JNST.\NC!:: (with indication of price expccted) to : IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION 14 Upper O'Connell St. Dublin THE HARBOUR, INNISBOFIN. MR. LIAM REDMOND WRITES "BOYCOTT" SCRIPT'. formerly occupied by the notorious Captain Boycott. T~le. ~cript for, the "Captain Boycott" film based who has had the unenviable honour of adding a worJ Ol~ I hdlp Rooney s ree~nt. book will be written by Mr. to the leading languages of Europe. Llam Redmond, the chstmguished actor-author who At the foot of ruachan is the quarry which upplies has al.ready made a pre.liminary survey of th~ local the well-known Achill " amethyst" ; and in an adjacent, scene 111 ~ layo for the pIcture. sequestered nook nestles the far-famed Keem BaY,whose pellucid, turquoise waters scintillate in the dancing sunbeam. Beyond Keel Bay, the Minnaun )lountain. enthruned on the magnificent Cathedral Cliffs, proudly rears its coronpted cre3t. As we descend I visualise the day. perhaps in the near future, when a funicular railway, similar to that of the Pie de Jer of the Pyrenees, will be in operation on Sliabh Mol', making what is now the privilege of the few the pleasure of the man\,. An idle dream, is it-now that we are entering on 'an era of ma s electrification? FAMOUS COTTAGE TO BE RECONSTRUCTED. The cottage, in the Glen of Jmaal, of .:\Jichael Uwyer. who during the 1798 period and for Jlve years afterwards eluded capture in Co. Wicklow, is to be reconstructed. The gallant Dwyer settled after 1803 in Australia, where he had a police post. He died there aged 45. SALTHILL, GALWAY. O'CONNElL RAILWAY HOTEL CARMODY'S HOTEL, ENNIS A.A. CAHIRCIVEEN RJ.A.C. CLARE'S PREMIER HOTEL. ~roto,' COoI"S Oond Motor Boats for Hire. Sholl Petrol Pump R.I.A.C., l.T.B. Hotel per week; £4 10s. TELEPllONE 10 CAHIRCIVEEN 'Phone: Ennis 26 f········"···..•··•..."···..·•··•·•··•..•..•··•··•··•··..········"·"·······"····..•··•··•··•··•··•..········f SLIEVE LEAGUE HOTEL ! MOIRA HOTELGRILLROOM ! • RESTAURANT ! CARRICK, Co. DONl~nAl). TRINITY STREET, DUBLIN BAR BUFFET i i G.N.R. Bus Service. t A la Carte and Table d' Hote Meals OYSTER BAR T t.•.~:~:.:::.~: .•~:.:~•. ~~.~:~:~:: "•..•~:..:~:~:..•~~.~.~~•.~~~~~~J Proprietor, SEAN 0 'l\IALONI·;Y. ,r.··.··------·.·.····--·--·--···----·--······.··.·------,' f ·co-oi·'S·..o-·F"AI..ji·RG··e..·..·..·H··o..i ..·e..·i:"··1 i QUEEN'S HOTEL, Ennis, Co Clare. l t (SEAVERGE) ! : (Officially appointe 1 by A.A. & RI.A.C.) : ; Central, Sunny Position on Sea Front. i , . : COllllllodious Accommol1ation. : I Good Food, Well Served. f : Charges exceptionally moderate. Phone: Ennis 17. : ~ HOT AD COLD WATER ALL BEDROOMS. ! t ESPLANADE-- Phone: Bray 293 --BRAY f :1 Prop.: F. 0 'G. MARSHALL. : ...... --- .. '------~ ~~~~~~~~~------~. HOTEL LENEHAN > OLD GROUND~HOTEi;~ENNis~- -I' Telephone No. 55. 24 & 21> HARCOURT STREET, DUBLIN First Class Cuisine, Comfort and Courtesy. Hot and Cold Water all Bedrooms ~ Convenient to Shannon Air Port. Specially appointed Rus No. 20 Ilom Amiens St. Station pass.. door; aloo Trams J4 & 15 Hotel. A.A., R.I.A.C., r.T.A. and Irish Tourist Board. ~ Iro'11 Nelson Pi~Jar. PHONE 52043. MISS LENEHAN, Proprietress ~ Manageress, J. O'REGAN. ~ ~~---~_ -_ ---- _---- _._..- ...... -•.....•-- - .-.-.... ~ •i CARNA. CONNEMARA, CO. GALWAY WALCOT HOUSE HOTEL I· i MONGAN'S HOTEL Old Connaught, Bray f Flrst"class Lake and Sea FIshing - Shooting • Beautiful Bathin~ Beaches. Mountain, River, Comfort and charm in picturesque country surroundings. f Lake, Sea Easy walking distance from Bray. Phone Bray 169. i Phone: CARNA 3 J. W. MONGAN, Proprietor ~ -.- - - .. t·..·..·•········•·····•··..·•··•·····•..•..•··•··•··•··•..•··•.....····-·······-····..····_;:~~ .. ~~1~~:~·~~:~·;~~··:-~~:···~:··;·;;·;~;~·9-·~:~··~;~;~~~: .. ·~~·;:;~: ..=~:·;~:··~~;~:·~:·~;:i·~:· ..·l T of a district fol' the pUl'suit of any particulOor class of angling. includes one largo ! ; linen-mounted folder mOop of Ireland, togetber with three detailed area maps. i T THE ANGLER'S GUIDE Price 2/6, By Post 2/10 f I (Prepared bu the Department of Fisheria) 1'0 be obtail/erl throuoh any book. t THE NATIONAL BANK I i. LIMITED offers an ttJtrival!ed service in the fil1al1cil1/; of foreign trade and the procurement of fUl1ds at the most favourable ra{es everyu:!lere. i.: Every d.:scription oJ foreign business is transacted. DUBLIN : LONDON : 34-35 College Green. 13-17 Old Broad St., E.C. 2 I . _ 23~ Offices throughout Ireland and 26 Offices In London and Great Britain. f__ _ o-~.~.~_~ "."._ "." ":.:~:~~~~..c:.~::~~~:u:.:.~~~::.::~:~~::~~~. ~O~l~: .. ~ __ June, 19-1-6. JRTSH TR.Al'EL 193 -CALL BACK THE TRAVELLER· -No. 45._. A ROADSIDE GAME CORK OFTEN AFLOAT IN GRAIGNAMANAGH ORK was in 1800, as it had been for some S11UDGY circle chalked on the asphalt surface generations, a wea~thy, stirring, important port, of Graignamanagh's High treet was my intra·· C.. with a very original air about it, and some A duction to a fascinating pastime enjoyed for ?ngmal ways. A bird s-eye view would give one the generations by the inhabitants of our south-eastern Illlpression of a cluster of houses huddled together in counties, and nowhere outside of Kilkenny, Carlow a picturesque swamp, and holding their ground for and Wexford have I come upon the" pelters " circle the bare life against a river, which, spreading out into -a symbol so familiar in these three counties as to the wide arms, numerous lesser branches and stealthy be worthy of inclu ion in their Coats-of-Arms! T canals, seemed to bend its course with no other view have heard of a similar game in Fermanagh and it than to circumvent the buildings. Through many of would be interesting to learn if " peggers" is, in fact, the streets water flowed in the style of Rotterdam; played elsewhere in Ireland, or in Great Britain. As drawbridges crossed the canals; and trees, taking it is a game of skill of the skittle variety it is possible advantage of the never-failing moisture from below that its origin may be traced to England, and this may and the hardly less copious moisture from above, account for its survival in the particular counties sprang up high and green wherever they got leave to mentioned. root themselves_ The river banks were quayed in, The pbyers are known as pelters; what they pelt and light, taU-masted vessels conveyed to the ware are called peggers, of which there are three, about a house doors, and into the heart of the town, the goods foot long, made of timber, weighing 2 to 2t lbs. each, which had been carried as far as Passage by the shaped like a Vienna-roll, or a rolling-pin tapered at merchantmen of France, Spain and the Indies. both ends. The pelter stands some W'or 15 feet from Floating Capital. a circle roughly 3 feet in diameter, on the inside of Out of this gay confusion of trees, bridges, ships, which are arranged five wooden skittles, the width of and the abodes of men, a considerable number of a cork and ~bout four inches high: one in the centre, houses, and Shandon Church, with its party-coloured and the remainder at equidistance from each other steeple, appeared to have withdrawn to the high around the edge. These are numbered one to five, five grounds on the north bank in search of a safe position. being in the centre. To prevent the peggers rolling As if to make assurance doubly sure, these refugees, instead of falling into the target area, a thin lathe of whenever it was practicable, climbed out of the way timber is set up near the circle on the pelter's side. even of roads, and carried on communication with other streets by means of a staircase. Citizens dwell- Watch Your Windscreen. ing on the low grounds got accustomed to the peculiarities of the situation; and when an unusual Various scoring systems prevail: usually the object flood in the river or a very high tide in conjunction is to see which pelter can first reach an exact score of with a very high wind sent the water up to the door- 21, 31, 5I-any figure so long as it has "the one in steps, their spirits, no way damped, rose to the level of it"; another, to work around the circle knocking the the occasion; they did their business in boats in the skittles down 1 to 5 in turn without disturbing the morning, and rowed away to their dancing parties in wrong ones. So when you are motoring through those the evening. Some of the more prudent merchants parts this summer be extra careful how you take the had the lower storeys of theirollOuses fitted with heavy corners, or you may find yourself in the middle of an doors to keep out the waters. or at any rate to keep in inter-village competition, with a pegger cominO' the wares; but among the not very plea ant items of accidentally through your wind~creen. And if in som~ the morning's news would frequently be the announce- quiet by-way you come upon a happy group around a ment to the Cork traders that their merchandize, like circle marked in the dust, get out of your car and ask their capital, was floating. if you may have a fling. There is a comradely atmos" -MARY AIKENHl<:AD. HER LIFE AND WORK, phere on the pe'ter's pitch. by S. A. Gill. Dublin, 1879. -HILDA ALLBERRY. r------..:..:....::=~ Furnish at TODD BURNS -The Headquarters for Happy Homes MIIRY STREET DUBLIN \.. ~- , 19-1- IRISH TRAVEL June, 19-1-6. ~,.Avoca, Co. Wicklow·~ « Tlwre is not in this wide \\'orlel a \':d/(,y so s\\'eet .\s the \'ale ill "'hose hosom the bright \\'atl'rs meet; SPORTS AND PASTIMES. O/!! the' last ra~'s of fel'ling and life IIlUst depart Golf-ThcJ'e is Erl' the hlool11 of that \':l!ll'~' shoulcl fade from m~' ]wart." a n!1C' 9-hole course at \Yooden -;\[oore. hridg·e. Visitor" fC'es: day, 2/6 j weC'k, 10/-; month, 20/-. HE Vale of Avoca, amid the hills of south-east LlLwn Tennis-ThC' Avota Lawll Tennis Club have Wick~ow, has not greatly changed since it t w.o grass courts on Vale-Ro1td,"'t' jle from A VOl'a T inspired title immortal verses of Thomas :vloore I'allway station. I<'ees: ,week, 2/6; se'ason, 5/-. over a century ago. About three miles north of A voca Angling-The Aughrim Ri" r .and other streams village the River Avoca is formed by the confluence in thC' neighhourhood hold num61'ous small ])I'O\\,11 of the Avonmore and the Avonbeg-the " Meeting of trout. the Waters," where the two rivers mingle in a setting Shooting-Good l'OUgh-, I'b,ootM1g "1s to he had. of sylvan beauty, Overlooking the scene is the some oE which is fret'. SllO') 'h> rights are, how- landown~rs. superbly ituated Ca tIe Roward, its battlements ever, largely reserved by ...... - towering above the dense surrounding foliage. Nearby is " Moore's Tree," in the shade of which the poet \\'as WALKS AND DRIVES AROUND AVOCA, accustomed to sit. The river flows south for nearly 1 ~.., five miles through a charming, well-wooded valley, to Situated as it is in the "heart 'of County Wicklow, \Voodenbridge, where the valleys of the Aughrim and Avoea is surrounded by many places of great scenic Gold l\lines rivers join that of the Avoca and form a interest. The walker, cyclr t or motorist will find the second and much more beautiful "l\r~eting of the villag-e an excellent centre for many, enjoyable tours, of which the following are a selection :- (1) MOTTO STONE-From Avoca Yillage, past R.e. hurch via Sulphurbrook and Kilmacoo; turn left at Kilmacoo Cross, through Conary village; turn left at next cross to Motto Stone. (Alternative): AcrosS White Bridge (Meetings Road), turn right undor rail \\'ay bridge, turn left to Tigroney Green, ancl take' centre road to Motto . 'tone, This Stone is a ~laeial houleler of granite pen'hed on the summit of a hill over 00 feet high anel measuring' about III feet high by H feet b~' 10 feet. From the top of the stone a grand viell' of thp vale anll thp surrounding eountl)' is ohtaine(l. (2) BELL ROCK-From Avoea village turn·lpft at Ball~' gahan gal'figc up (( Red Road" via Ball.\'gahan, Ball.v murtha-keep right at Ballyll1l1rtha, and folio\\' l\fines Road, meeting main road a~ain at Kileashel (opposite' White Bridge). 'rhl' name of this enorlllOUS rock is derived from the Bell whi(·h was fOl'lllel'1y run~ there to summon till' 1\1 i ners to thei I' work. IN THE VALE OF AVOCA. cn TEN HOUSES and •• ROUND '0' '-From _\ \'oea \'iJlage via Castlemaeadum Church, turn l'ight at Castlp Waters." Here the river turns south-east and winds maeadam se·hool and go strai~ht up hill, yia Kil through a further four miles of richly wooded valley queC'ney (or (( HilIpicket "), to 'ren Housps. (.\Iter before entering the sea at Arklow. The valley is nath'e): l'rom Meetings of ,""alprs, da Kno('kenocle Rill and Coolaflake, hlrn left to 'ren Honses. (Approx. e pecially pretty in late spring, when drifts of white distance eaeh war-:l mill'S). blossom of the wild cherry tree sho\\' brightly against the prevailing green of foliag-e. U) SPINK-From A\'oea village-R.C. Church-turn left The Avoca district provided the go~dsmiths of at 8ulphurbrook to 'rigrone~' Green-middle road at Tigl'oney Green-across Bpink to Cronl'bane, and re ancient 1reland wi th much of their material, gold turn \'ia Castle HO\\'arcl to ~[el'ting of ,"Vaters. being- mined in prehistoric times at Croghan Kinsella, at the head of the Gold 1ine River. In 1796 the (;3) BALLYDONNELL CROSS-From A\'oca vilIage' finding of a nugget here led to a "gold rush." and in R.C. Church-Black. hridge-turn right to Knockenree Ball~'clonnell Cl few months 2,600 ounces were found. Work was and BallydonnelI Cross. Turn left at Cross to rl'turn \'in Kilmaeoo Cross, and (a) A \'oen later carried on at different times and several thousand yillage; (h) Conary. Motlo Htone, Ti~rone'Y (: reen, further ounces were raised. There are also valuable White Bridge or Bpink, et('. beds of pyrites in the area, which have been extensively -worked. Investigations are at present «(i) BARNISKEY-From AvOClL village via Kilmugig turn left to Ballinastraw-Poulaphouen; take 111; (7) BALLINACOR-Frolll A\'oca \'illage via Killllagig (direct road), paRt Miue\'icw, RJie\'('ua\'Ol1e, Bally cooleeu, BaIJiuacor. () WOODENBRIDGE-}'rolll A \'oca village via CaRtle macadam, past Castlelllacadam Rchool to Balliuapark rosstighe-turn left at Cro 'stighe for Wo.odeubl'.dge aud back to Avoca. (Approx. <1iRtallce- lllllcs). EXCURSIONS FROM AVOCA. Going farther afield--;-but not so far as to b.e ,beyond easy motoring or cycling li tance-one may VISIt many interesting places and at the same time enjoy some of Jreland's mosll ..bf.;'!1.lcti.fu1 (: ery. GLENDALOUGH - 13 ~l1ne J.' Famous for its magni ficent combinatioll .pi. .!a} -' Made h~' P. Ka\'allagh & SOllR, " RUllRhilll' "'ork~," CrumJiu Rd., DUBLIN", vlaces, Glenmalure \\'as the stronghold of Fiach l\lacHugh O'Byrne, the great \Nicklo\\' chief who, in 1580 inl1icted a heavy defeat here on an English army under Lord Deputy Grey; and in 1798 the valley .vas the headquarters of :\lichael Dwyer, the insurgent leader. ARKLO\\' (8 miles), a popular seaside resort, beauti fully situated at the mouth of the Avoca river, is noted for its magnificent strands. lts recreational facilities include golf, tennis, boating and fishing. WOODENBRIDGE. AUGER] M (7 miles), in bcauti ful surroundings at the junction of the Ow and Derry rivers, presents a several hundred feet above sea-level, amid to\\'ering choice of roads to many of the county's famous mountains are among the most beautiful of Ireland's beauty spots. Six miles north-\\'est of Aughrim. to many lakes. Lough Tay lies in an almost oval hollow, the south of Lugnaquilla, lies the wild and desolate the western side of which ri es abruptly in lofty cliffs va!ley of . ughavannagh, hemmed around by tO\\ ering mountains. several hundred feet high. Lough Van is five miles north of Laragh and Lough Tay is t\\'O miles farther north. Both lakes hold small brown trout, and fishing WOODENBRIDGE. is free. \NOODENBRlDGE is prettily ituated at the junction GLENM,\LCRE (15 mi!es, via Ballinac1ash and Drum ',f the voca, Aug-hrim and Ark!o\V valleys, where goff) , a great valley, to the south of Glendalough, the Aughrim and Avoca river' form a second penetrate for several miles between grand, rugged .. 11ecting of the Waters." Over sixty miles of river mountains. On the outh-west side of the valley rise are a\ailable in the neighbourhood and the fish Lugnaquilla (3,039 feet), the highest mountain in though small-afford good sport early in the season. Leinster. The contour and colour of the landscape There is a nine-hole Golf cour e. are inde cribably beautiful. and the nine miles of road Woodel)bridge offers a retreat to all those seeking from Rallinaclash to the head of the g~en make onc respite from the bu tic of the modern world. The of the most delightful motor drives in Europe. pine-scented air of the locality is a proven cure for Evidences of glacial action may be seen in many that commonest of moclern complaints-insomnia. .- --•..•..•.....•...------_ . ·! .T Most central for touring t HOTEL CARLISLE! County Wicklow ·i .i 1 DUN lAOGHAIRE (Co. Qublin) 1 i i • I A.A., R.t.A.C. ~ Ideally situated on ; sea front, over· t lo~klng Gardens, i Pier and Harbour GRAND A few minutes' walk from Mall Boat Pier. Trams. t Buses, Railway Station and Baths. II RENOVATED ' THROUGHOUT. ~ HOTEL T Hot and rold T Running Water In I WICKLOW • all Bedrooms. ,t I Fully Licensed. On Rail and Bus Routes. Own Farm Hot and Cold Running Water in all Rooms. Produce Own Garden Produce. Private Tennis Courts. t Putting Green. Golfing, Boating, Fishing and Special Attention T Bathing adjacent. given to Cuisine. I Tariff on ILLUSTiUTED BROCHURE SEN'i' ON REQUES'l' application. ,t TELEPHONE No. 37. J. A. CLANCY, Manager ,t Grams: .. Carlisle, Dun L~oghalre." 'Phone: Dun Laoghalre 818101 ,t · i , -- ~ Donegal Inishowen Peninsula THE FORT HOTEL This means GREENCASTlE - Co. DONEGAL A MODERN HOTEL OVERLOOKING LOUGH FOYLE ~o 'go ahead' hotel to-day is without Fully Licensed Garage Accommodation modern refrigeration. Rememher. your gue is will judge your hotel primaril.v 011 GOLF - TENNIS .* tlle quality and condition of the food Our service d,partment served. ~lake ure all food is properly BOATING - FISHING Is at the disposal of stored by installing Frigidaire-a refrig SANDY BEAaHES - SAFE BATHING Frlgldalre users for erator world renowned for its reliabilitv repairs and replace- and economy. 'Ye shall be glad at ltllY Own Grounds and Martello Tower for Games, etc. ments. For sales or time to give yo.u expert advice free of mvice phone 52t95. charge. IYrite to-day. OPEN EASTER TO OCTOBER Sole Frigidaire Concessionaires Good Bus Service from Londonderry. A.A. R.I.A.C. TELEPHONE: GREENCASTLE 3. O. & H. JAMISON, LTD. } rigidaire House, 73 Cork Street, Dublin. Terrazzo, Wood Block Flooring, Tiling and Plumbing D'Nara's of Lincoln Place BY CAROL DEAN rln interesting and inforl1lative Guide to Beaut)', J. ]. Q'H'lr Telephone DUBLIN 22241-44 JURY'S HOTEL DUBLIN Comfort Cuisine Service • EXCELLEN'l'LY SERFED JIEdLS Telegrams: JURY'S DUBLIN WYNl 'S lIOTEL • ABBEY 'TREET • DUBLIN Ph01lB 75131 _iO'F.;e U LE AR S HOTEL Phone 5 WATERVILLE THE ROYAL HOTEL, VALENT A Phone: 7 SOUTHERN OTEL Phone: 2 CARAGH LAKE All within short distance from Railway Stations. Trains met. Golf, Tennis, Free Fishing, Boating. Swimming, Billiards, etc. Bring your Bicycle to Kerry and stay at this Chain of Hotels which offer a system of interchangeable accommodation and meals. Hotels are situated within a radius of 20 miles of each other. AHO CASTLE HOTEL CONG Phone: co. MAYO CONG 3 The Private Grounds include 25 miles of Avenues and Walks, a Golf Course, Croquet Lawn, and Putting Green, set amidst the most beautiful surroundings in Eire. • Bicycles, Jaunting Cars, Horses and Pleasure Boats available. • Free Fishing on Lough Corrib. • Tennis, Billiards, etc. ALL ABOVE HOTELS FULLY LICENSED Publisbed by the Pr prieto", IRISH TOURI T ASSOCIATION 15 Upper O'Connoll Street, Dubl;n, and printed by THE JUVERNA PRESS, LTD. 12 Upper Lifley Street, Dublin. Otber Offices of the A"uc;ation :-BELFAST : 17 Que n's Arcade. CORK: 2:; Patriek Str«t. LONDON: 10 L'. Regent Street, S.W.l. PRINTED IN DUBLIN.