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The Rambler in North America, MDCCCXXXII.–MDCCCXXXIII

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The Rambler in North America, MDCCCXXXII.–MDCCCXXXIII Library of Congress The rambler in North America, MDCCCXXXII.– MDCCCXXXIII. By Charles Joseph Latrobe., Volume 2 THE RAMBLER. L. J. AND C. SEELEY, PRINTERS, THAMES DITTON, SURREY. THE RAMBLER IN NORTH AMERICA: MDCCCXXXII.–MDCCCXXXIII. BY CHARLES JOSEPH LATROBE, AUTHOR OF THE ‘ALPENSTOCK,’ ETC. CŒLUM, NON ANIMUM MUTANT QUI TRANS MARE CURRUNT. HOR. EPIST. SECOND EDITION. VOL. II. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CITY OF WASHINGTON PUBLISHED BY R. B. SEELEY AND W. BURNSIDE: AND SOLD BY L. AND G. SEELEY, FLEET STREET, LONDON. MDCCCXXXVI. misu Aug. 9, 1911 2 309 7 CONTENTS OF VOL. II. Letter I.—Spring of 1833. Departure for the South. The Chesapeake. Norfolk. The Old Dominion. Richmond. Journey overland to Charleston. Spring in the South. Georgia. Georgian Inns. Savannah. Darien on the Alatahama. Page 1. The rambler in North America, MDCCCXXXII.–MDCCCXXXIII. By Charles Joseph Latrobe., Volume 2 http://www.loc.gov/resource/ lhbtn.6855b Library of Congress Letter II.—The Mocking-bird. Indian Mounds. The forgotten Tribes. The Ann-Rosetta of Darien. The Sounds. St. Simon's Sound. St. Andrew's Sound. Cumberland Island. St. Mary's Sound. Fernandina. St. John's River. Il Pablo. Description of a Southern Farm. St. Augustine. Page 18. Letter III.—Florida. Features of St. Augustine. Population. Italians. Crabs. Journey to Tallahassee. Springs and Sink Holes. A halt at a Farm. The Host. Evening in Florida. The Suwane. The Bad Bridge. Tallahassee. Page 35. Letter IV.—The Old Field of the Indian. Country between Tallahassee and the Gulf. Magnolia. St. Mark's, The Waculla. Anti-Temperance Society. vi Mint-julep. Travelling in Georgia. Nomenclature of Towns. Flaws—their effects. Milledgeville. The Convention. Eloquence in the United States. Prospects of the Union. The Alleghany. The French Broad. Warm Spring. Bluntsville. Lynchburg. Richmond. Baltimore. Page 51. Letter V.—Pennsylvania. The German population. The Susquehanna. Bridges. Duncan's Island. Talent in America. Education. American Authors. The ‘truly American Author.’ Skill in the Mechanic Arts. The Swedish Colonies. Salem. Insect Tribes. The Cicada Septendecim. Habits and appearance of— Page 75. Letter VI.—Boston. The Fourth of July. Portland. The Kennebec. The Frontier Farm. Charles the Tenth and the Backsettlers. The Vale of the Chaudière—features of— inhabitants. Quebec—its environs. Comparison between the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi. Trois Rivières. The Shawinnegame and La Grande Mère. Montreal. The Ottawa. The Rideau Canal. Page 97. Letter VII.—The Hudson—past and present state of the navigation of—A visit to a friend. Summer pleasures of the American. Saratoga Springs—Morning life at. Saratoga Lake. Lake George. Evening at the springs. Structure of Society. Page 121. The rambler in North America, MDCCCXXXII.–MDCCCXXXIII. By Charles Joseph Latrobe., Volume 2 http://www.loc.gov/resource/ lhbtn.6855b Library of Congress Letter VIII.—State of New York. An estate in the back woods. Upper Canada. The Thames District. London. The Moravian Forest. Moravian Mission vii among the Delawares. New Fairfield. The site of the old settlement. Indian warriors. Tecumseh. Page 145. Letter IX.—History of Tecumseh, his schemes, labours, and fall. The Christian Warrior. Outline of the history of the Indian Mission among the Delawares. Page 162. Letter X.—Detroit. The Peninsula of Michigan. State of signs of the Autumn. A travelling party. A Revolutionary Hero. The Calemeck. Shores of Lake Michigan. A night scene and night adventures. Captain John Cooke. American preferences. Arrival at Chicago. Page 183. Letter XI.—Chicago. The Indian Treaty. The Pottawattomies. The Preliminary Council. Inhabitants of Chicago. Features, costumes, and manners of the Pottawattomies. The sale of whiskey. The Council. Sale of Indian lands. Terms of the Treaty. Page 202. Letter XII.—Illinois. The Prairies. Their characteristics. Emigration and the English emigrant. Page 217. Letter XIII.—St. Louis. The early French in North America. The American Bottom. Mounds and Monuments of North America. Page 233. Letter XIV.—Journey overland to Prairie de Chien. Illinois. The Indian War. The Mining District. viii Galena. The Ouisconsin. Prairie de Chien. Thé bark Canoe. Departure for St. Peter's. The Upper Mississippi. Page 250. Letter XV.—The Indian Summer. Scenery of the Upper Mississippi. The Crapauds. Characters. Miseries of Camping and Cooking. Lake Pepin. The Sioux Indians. The Quack Doctor. Arriyal at Fort Snelling. Page 270. The rambler in North America, MDCCCXXXII.–MDCCCXXXIII. By Charles Joseph Latrobe., Volume 2 http://www.loc.gov/resource/ lhbtn.6855b Library of Congress Letter XVI.—The St. Peters. The Fort. The Sioux Indians. The Falls of St. Anthony. Return to the Prairie. Lake Pepin. The Cap à la Fille. A Day's repose. The burning Prairies. A night scene. The Camp of the Bad Axe. Meteoric Rain. Page 294. Letter XVII.—Prairie de Chien. The Dragoons. Descent of the Mississippi. Rock Island. Fort Armstrong. The junction of the Mississippi and Missouri. St. Louis. Page 315. Letter XVIII.—Descent of the Mississippi. Natchez. The Missourian. New Orleans, scenes in. Departure for Mexico. Conclusion. Page 328. LETTER I. To. F. B. L. We will now change the scene and the season. The remainder of the winter of 1832–33,— for the prolongation of the tour of which I have assuredly given you sufficient details, had cut a month off that season,—was spent most agreeably in New York and Baltimore, with an occasional visit to Washington and Philadelphia. I might here appropriately hazard a few observations with reference to the chief characteristics of that society to which we had been introduced at our first visit, and had now a better opportunity of becoming acquainted with; but I defer them till a brighter day. You are aware, that notwithstanding their more southerly degree of latitude, these parts of the United States are often visited by winterly weather, of a severity to which we are almost strangers in our island; and such was the case in the commencement of the year in question, when, after an open and pleasant January and February, the month of March VOL. II. B 2 was signalized by ten days of such Siberian cold, that the country far into Virginia was covered with deep snow; and the intercourse between the great cities for some days totally interrupted, by the quantity of ice in the Delaware and Chesapeake, and the obstruction of the long lines of rail-road over the peninsulas. The rambler in North America, MDCCCXXXII.–MDCCCXXXIII. By Charles Joseph Latrobe., Volume 2 http://www.loc.gov/resource/ lhbtn.6855b Library of Congress It had long been the intention of Count Pourtales and myself to make a tour in the Southern States early in the year, and as soon as the weather grew milder, we met together in Baltimore for this purpose. The Spring, which seemed to have been ready to descend on the earth at the close of the foregoing month, but had been rudely arrested on the threshold, now gave renewed tokens of approach. My early predilections for this season above all others have suffered no abatement; and few can imagine the degree of pleasure with which I now regarded its approaching steps. In the present instance it came, as might be expected, with accelerated speed the moment that the mild south wind had thawed the surface of the frozen land and water. While the ground was yet swimming with superabundant moisture, my old friends the frogs began piping away; but a few days of dry sunny weather effected a complete change in the scene; and, as we strolled over the woodland country in the vicinity of Baltimore, we saw that the spell was broken, and the imprisoned beauty of the year loosed from its chains. 3 It was delightful to feel the warm sun—ten thousand motes floating in its beam!—and the gentle air, fanning the meadows, and exciting little eddying whirlwinds in the forest: to hear birds chirping and walking about over the rustling carpet of dried leaves;—to see the lady-birds emerging from their winter hiding-places at the foot of the trees;—the groups of guinea-fowl straying over the fields of young wheat, or pecking the decayed acorns under the trees;—and to note the stirred surface of the ground ready to burst with the rich mass of embryo vegetation beneath. The grey squirrel awoke from his quiet sleep in the hollow tree, and began his life of careless gambol; and the mottled ground-squirrel might be seen with his mate, venturing from his nest among the twisted roots. Here and there in sheltered situations the Draba, Lamium , and Stellaria , were detected, as in the Old World,—the first The rambler in North America, MDCCCXXXII.–MDCCCXXXIII. By Charles Joseph Latrobe., Volume 2 http://www.loc.gov/resource/ lhbtn.6855b Library of Congress to greet the eye of the lover of nature: and now, full of expectation, we turned our faces southward to meet the Spring. A Steamer, swift, spacious, and powerful—more like a frigate in dimensions than a boat, was our chosen mode of conveyance to Norfolk in Virginia. We answered the farewell of our friends on the wharf,—whirled round with our head to the bright morning sun,— dashed swiftly over the lively surface of the inner basin,—shot like an arrow in concert with two other noble steam-boats, through the narrow outlet, where the bay appears shut in by two advancing points of and, B 2 4 and leaving Fort M'Henry to the right, bore away through the estuary of the Patapsco, towards the broad Chesapeake. After the lapse of half an hour the city began to fade away in the distance, though the majestic column of white marble which records the grateful remembrance of the people to the best general and best man America ever produced, continued long visible from its distinguished colour and commanding position.
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