Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 1 2 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 13

AFRICAN

FINEREVIEW COFFEES MAGAZINE January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2

NEW AFRICAN COFFEE BREEDING HUB IN RWANDA

BEYOND THE COFFEE BEAN: A FAIR TRADE INNITIATIVE

STRONG BLACK COFFEE: PHYLLIS JOHNSON’S TAKE AMIR HAMZA TANZANIA COFFEE BOARD POLICY CHANGES IN TANZANIA’S COFFEE INDUSTRY & DOMESTIC CONSUMPTION AS THE FUTURE OF AFRICA’S COFFEE

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IN THIS ISSUE 08 | Policy changes in the Tanzania’s coffee industry & domestic consumption as the future of Africa’s coffee 12 | AFCA Takes it’s members to China 13 | Rwanda coffee, first beneficiary of the launched Alibaba’s eWTP. 14 | A new African coffee breeding hub in Rwanda opens to benefit production throughout Africa 16 | Beyond the coffee bean; New frontiers in improving coffee producers livelihoods through Fairtrade. 18 | The 4th International Coffee Day. 19 | Rwandan coffee industry growing sustainably 22 | AFCA Coffee Programs: A message from the Chief Operations Officer 24 | International Women in Coffee Alliance Uganda Chapter in a new lens 26 | Strong Black Coffee: Why aren’t African-Americans more prominent in the coffee industry? 30 | Rwanda’s Ngororero coffee washing station awarded both “Best of the Best” & “Coffee Lover’s Choice” honors in Third Annual Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award. 31 | We need to talk more about price 32 | Coffee prices on a downward trend pushed excess supply and the strong pace of exports 33 | SCA launches initiative to address coffee price crisis and appoints new ED. 34 | 2018 AFCA Coffee Safari to Rift Valley and Mt. Elgon Region 39 | Special visits to the AFCA Secretariat 41 | Africa Coffee Academy’s Mentorship and Training Programme: 44 | AFCA on social media

WRITERS’ 16 BEYOND THE 06 PROFILES COFFEE BEAN Meet some of our New frontiers in contributers for this improving coffee issue. producers livelihoods.

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 3 A WORD FROM THE EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

surplus, as global output, estimated second breeding hubs after the first at 167.47 million bags, exceeds world one located in Central America. The consumption, estimated at 165.18 Breeding Hub serve as centralized million bags. This excess in supply locations for countries in each region continues to put downward pressure to access breeding populations, on prices. International coffee prices expertise, and materials that can be touched a 57- month low in August utilized to create new coffee varieties 2018, continuing a downward spiral. for the benefit of local producers Even though the prices recovered in each country or region. The hub marginally, the prices have remained is expected to generate the next low to-date. We have reviewed generation of coffee varieties that the market situation and have an will be adapted to various growing in-depth article on the same in this conditions in Africa and sustain the issue. industry’s genetic and breeding pools. We acknowledge WCR effort in The World Coffee Producers Forum, venture. which was held in Colombia in July 2017, has continued to offer an The AFCA Secretariat moved into alternative solution to the persistent its new home on 1 st March 2018, low prices. With Brazil and Colombia marking one of the key milestones taking lead, producing countries are in the growth of the institution. With now seeking alternative solutions the hiring of the Chief Operations AFCA welcomes you Kigali. to what has been an inexplicable Officer, AFCA has put in place a poor pricing mechanism, which number of exciting coffee programs, he 17th AFCC & E, is packed with threatens the sustainability of coffee trainings and domestic consumption Tworld renown speakers and production. A number of African conference. guest and provides a modern facility producers, have conducted studies for the exhibition. We hope each on the Economic Viability of Coffee Finally, AFCA is honored to partner delegate with actualize the business Farming. Join us at the AFCA Policy with NAEB, the official host sponsor. potential that is inherent in the dinner discussions as we review the We are proud of the sponsors who marketing platform. Please join us measures put in place to support the have teamed up with AFCA to deliver in the various specialized programs coffee farmers. this excellent event. Our warm on offer, including the Sustainable gratitude to Rwacof Exports Ltd, grower’s program, Sustainability After the East African Coffee Fairtrade Africa, Rain Forest / UTZ, day, IWCA Breakfast meeting, the Renaissance meeting in 2015 held Ecom Coffee/ C Dormans, Spedag WCR breeding hub launch, various under the umbrella of the AFCA and Interfreight, Bollore Logistics, Tracon trainings and social events. World Coffee Research (WCR), we Trading Plc and Sustainable harvest, celebrate the establishment of the who have contributed tothe success Coffee year 2018/19 is expected to East African Arabica Coffee breeding of this conference. be the second consecutive season of hub hosted in Rwanda. It is the

Editorial Team

Editors Associate Editor Publisher Samuel N. Kamau Doriane Kaze African Fine Coffees Association Nandi Jordaan Wambui Waigango Martin Maraka Godfrey Frances Cover Page Picture Feven Gevene Amir Hamza Barbra Nafuna Tanzania Coffee Board

Agapeters Kubasu

Kabasu is a sustainable development expert with over Phyllis-Johnson 9 years’ experience working with smallholder farmers in Sub Christine Condo An agent for empowering Saharan Africa. Previously worked women in coffee and a heart for as sustainable standards auditor As the East Africa Regional Africa, Phyllis Johnson has spent for Rainforest, UTZ certified, Director, Christine leads all 20 years of her career as a green café practices and Cotton made program activity for Sustainable coffee importer and wholesaler in Africa. Currently, engaged Harvest®-Rwanda. Prior to joining of roasted coffee. She and her as Member and Partnerships the Sustainable Harvest® team, husband Patrick started BD Manager for Eastern and Central Christine worked with ACDI/ Imports, a US based company in Africa Network supporting coffee VOCA on a USAID project, with 1999. Her company was the first producers. Fair Trade USA, REDI (Rwanda buyer to several African women Economic Development coffee entrepreneurs. Initiative), and Root Capital. She has invested the past 14 years in her passion: transforming the lives of people in the rural sector, Philip Schluter especially through women’s economic development. Having grown up in Kenya, Philip has a passion for the East African region.

He sees specialty coffee as an effective way to create real and sustainable value in the rural economy across the region.

With 25 years in the coffee industry, he now heads up the Specialty division of Olam coffee in Europe, Thank you based out of Liverpool, UK. to all our contributers

Meet Amir Hamza, Acting Board Chair, Tanzania Coffee Board & Chairman and CEO of Amir Hamza (T) Limited the owner of the largest Coffee Soluble Plant in East & Central Africa.

We meet up with Amir Hamza at the Mutukula, the Uganda Tanzania Border. We then drive down to Bukoba. Amir shares hilarious stories with us on our 2 hour trip down south. He and his plant manager Ayub tell us about the history of the area, the Idi Amin invasion and local delicacies: roasted grasshoppers included. The entire interview was conducted in their Amimza Board room.

Thank you for having us Bwana Amir.

1. Who is Mr. Amir Hamza?

He is a Tanzanian who loves his country, he loves his home town Bukoba and he loves coffee.

2. How did you get into Coffee? 3. Tanzania is going through massive reforms in My father used to have a coffee farm and my its coffee industry and many people see them as grandmother before World War Two used to deal in positive reforms that will do a lot to improve the coffee here in Kagera Bukoba. When I was in primary Tanzanian Coffee industry. Can you tell us about school I used to take my father’s farm produce, that them and what the world should expect from was coffee, to the primary society in the late 1960’s these reforms. to be sold to the cooperative union. After looking at the hardships of dealing in coffee and harvesting I felt The 5th Phase of the Tanzanian Government has done a I would need to go into coffee one day to and make marvelous job or should I say an excellent job because life easier for farmers. the Government looked into the life of the poor, small scale coffee farmers. In Tanzania 90% of the coffee is

8 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 produced by small holders and the extension officers will also be well and 5 dollars. I have even have had a small holders were going through trained as we had cases of extension cup of coffee at 11 dollars. a very hard time. According to the officers who were trained in different regulations the licensed buyers crops being brought but having no Yet when you calculate how many were to wait for the farmers at the experience with coffee. cups of coffee are in a kilogram buying post but a lot of middle men of green coffee you find that it is who were going straight to farmers The government has also set aside between 50 – 100 cups of coffee and paying for the coffee while money for seedling production depending on the type of coffee still at flowering stage. They would and distribution to increase the you brew; you find out that 99% of purchase the coffees at very low production of Tanzanian Coffee. Our the value of our coffee was ending prices which always left the farmers production has been stagnant at up in the consuming countries. The in a tricky situation. around 50,000 tons and there are producing countries unfortunately years when it goes up to 73,000 tons were not getting that value here and Now the government has totally but then drops to 33-32000 tons this is why I decided to look at value banned the direct dealing with the because of the cyclical nature of addition. The best idea that came to farmers but the farmers should now production. my mind was to build a soluble or be under cooperatives umbrella or instant coffee plant whereby I can do agricultural marketing cooperative. The 5th phase government is very huge production and absorb a huge The farmers will now be required serious and looking into it and all percentage of the Tanzanian crop. to take their coffee to cooperative these policy changes are going to

The producing countries unfortunately were not getting that The government has ordered all the extension service workers not value here and this is why I decided to look at value addition. to sit in offices but they should be in the field. The same extension The best idea that came to my mind was to build a soluble or officers will also be well trained as we had cases of extension officers instant coffee plant whereby I can do huge production and who were trained in different crops being brought but having no absorb a huge percentage of the Tanzanian crop. experience with coffee. who in turn can sell the coffee to boost the coffee industry as a whole 5. Take us through the process, whoever offers the best price. If in 3 to 5 years’ time with production what capacity do you have they don’t get a buyer they can and prices going up. and what products are take the coffee to the auction after available in the market. processing the coffee. To achieve 4. You currently operate this the government is in the process the largest soluble coffee The soluble factory we have is spray of ensuring the primary societies factory in East and Central dried powdered instant coffee so are well organized and once this Africa: What inspired you to we take the green beans that are is done, I think, the farmer will get construct it? cleaned properly, destoned, blown the best price in the history of our and graded properly. These are country and with this system more I have traveled to a lot of countries roasted to provide one of the best N.G.Os and other companies like around the world and wherever I go I roasting profiles required by our my company or any other can help usually try to enjoy my cup of coffee customers and after that the coffee farmers through these cooperative in the top and normal coffee shops. that has been roasted is ground boost productivity. The government While there I try to see the value of to a size that is acceptable to our has ordered all the extension service our coffees in those countries. I found machinery. It is then taken through workers not to sit in offices but they that in consuming countries you buy an extractor where we extract should be in the field. The same a cup of coffee at between 2 dollars the liquor which is of very high

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 9 temperature so it needs to be cooled the town, who did what at night or addition & domestic consumption down, filtered and store it. We also do during the day. and not to depend on green beans the aroma recovery and a few other trading only. processes before spray drying. 6. What legacy do you want to leave for your children and for 7. What do you like to do when With the spray dried powder we the Tanzanian Coffee Industry you are not in the office or in blend, take it through a few more after 26 years of trading the field traveling? processes to create a sustainable coffee as family business? product that is acceptable – density When I am free I like to study. I wise, colour-wise and flavor- Firstly for my children, I want them to believe that one has to be a student wise according to the customers have one of the best coffee industries from his cradle to his grave so the specification. if not in the world then in Africa. Also first chance I get when I am free, I try through coffee my grandchildren to study. Any short courses I can get We can do 6000 tons per annum should be able to take those I like to attend them. Even currently which is equalivent to 18,000 tons of products to the highest possible I am still studying. On top of this I green beans and 36000 tons of red level. I hope that they remember like to enjoy my coffee and good cherry. Please note that this excludes throughout history as someone who

Currently we have 4 products, that is: Café Amimza, 50 gram, I hope that the Tanzanian coffee industry, the farmers and the 100gram, Stick Pack 1.8 grams and Amimza KahawaBora (a processors will know that it is possible for Tanzanians to do value roast and ground coffee) which is currently being sipped on the addition in coffee, to prepare a coffee that is ready to drink for the streets of Tanzania and neighbouring countries. consumers. our roast and ground market thus we started from scratch from my family food. I don’t take my food by just expect to absorb more than 40,000 backyard. I was able with family swallowing it I like to taste it and as a tons of dried cherry from Tanzania’s support to reach were I am today. result I am a very slow eater. annual coffee production which is about 20,000 tons of green beans. Second hope that the Tanzanian 8. What is your daily coffee ritual This is 25% - 50% of Tanzania’s total coffee industry, the farmers and and how do you take your coffee production at any one time. the processors will know that it is coffee? possible for Tanzanians to do value Currently we have 4 products, that addition in coffee, to prepare a I prefer black coffee when it is filtered is: Café Amimza, 50 gram, 100gram, coffee that is ready to drink for the or Americano coffee. I usually take Stick Pack 1.8 grams and Amimza consumers. it with the bites and prefer to have KahawaBora (a roast and ground a local cashuter or haluwa. I have coffee) which is currently being Finally, you mentioned I have been in usually like coffee after food, in the sipped on the streets of Tanzania and the coffee industry for 26 years and morning with my breakfast, at 10 am neighbouring countries. It is locally I have gone through all the hurdles and lastly at 4pm. called “Gahawa” meaning strong in the industry. The coffee industry coffee that is consumed by people is very volatile, it rises and it falls, it as they sit on the “jobless” stones or bankrupts and it make you rich and local coffee bars in the morning or then it makes you poor. The lesson evening where they gather all the that I have learn and I have told my gossip and rumormongering about children is you need to do value what is happening, the news of

10 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 If there was a World Cup for Coffee CAFÉ DU BURUNDI! It would be! Brought to Canada & the USA by www.tgep.ca

With the strategic assistance our producers: ▪ Cococa/Horamama Coffee, ▪ Sogestal Kayanza, ▪ Sogestal Mumirwa, ▪ Sogestal Kirimiro, ▪ SUCCAM. ▪ Matraco AFCA TAKES IT’S MEMBERS TO CHINA This year, AFCA was an exhibitor at to the world’s largest population, AFCA also released it’s October – the 2018 Hainan International Coffee fastest growing country and second December 2018 magazine issue at Congress and High-End Beverage wealthiest nation – we felt that this event. Expo (ICoffeeExpo2018) from this was an opportunity not to be the 16th – 18th November 2018. missed. The growth potential for the Talks are currently under way The event was held at the Hainan China coffee industry is phenomenal with the host to visit the Rwanda International Convention & Exhibition growing by 16% per year. conference in 2019 to sign a long- Centre, Haikou, Hainan – China. This term partnership between AFCA was the second edition of this event. AFCA members who came on the and our members to promote each trip came from the United States, other’s events – with AFCA bringing Haikou Hainan, is a tourist beach Rwanda and Burundi. At the event more producers to ICoffeeExpo and front city developed to encourage AFCA held cupping sessions for all China bringing more buyers to the local Chinese to spend most of their it’s members that was incredibly AFCA Conference. holidays in the country. As home popular among the Chinese visitors. 1 2

Picture 1 - Chinese Importers and Roasters cup coffees at the AFCA Booth. Picture 2 - Coffee Samples ready to be cupped Chinese African Coffee Hunters. Picture 3 - AFCA releases it’s October - December 2018 Magazine Issue. Picture 4 - Group Photo with happy AFCA members and guests at the AFCA booth beautiful cherry delivered and cupping area. to the factory

12 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 RWANDA COFFEE, FIRST BENEFICIARY OF THE LAUNCHED ALIBABA’S eWTP. Alibaba also pledged to work with the National Agricultural Export Development Board to help Rwandan coffee producers sell their products to international consumers through Alibaba’s online marketplaces such as Tmall Global, a platform of over half a billion consumers. Some brands of Rwandan single-origin coffee are already on sale on the platform. In just a few days after the launch, over 1,000 bags of Rwanda coffee beans multinational companies. were sold.

Alibaba Group and the “I am delighted that Rwanda is the “We have already seen tremendous government of Rwanda first eWTP partner in Africa, and I look attention from the Chinese have agreed to multiple forward to the development of an consumers on Alibaba’s platforms in bilateral initiatives to innovative digital economy here,” said high-quality Rwandan single origin Ma, Founder and Executive Chairman promote the African coffee. This will be in long term the of Alibaba Group. “Entrepreneurs in reward for our coffee farmers and country’s economy Rwanda, and elsewhere in Africa, other sector stakeholders. We are through increased cross- are ready to seize the opportunities ready to provide the final product in border trade, capacity offered by the digital economy. It is the quality and volume required by building and tourism. up to all of us to contribute to the the market and Alibaba standards.” success.” Said Amb. Bill Kayonga, the CEO of NAEB. “People ask me, ‘Why Rwanda? There are so many countries in Africa,’” Ma So far, three Rwandan coffee he signing of this partnership continued. “When I first came to brands already joined the Alibaba’s which was witnessed by Rwanda, I was shocked by its ability e-commerce platform. These are Rwandan President Paul T to embrace change. If every country Gorillas Coffee, Rwanda West Hills Kagame and Alibaba Group was like Rwanda, think how powerful Coffee and A Thousand Hills Coffee. Executive Chairman Jack Ma, took Africa could be. My answer is, ‘Why place on Wednesday, 31st October not Rwanda?’” Recently, in the beginning of this 2018 in Kigali Convention Center. month of October, Rwanda coffee “Rwandan producers will be able scooped two awards in the 3rd A major tenet of the agreements is to sell directly to a much larger set annual Ernesto Illy International Rwanda’s admission to the Electronic of customers than before, while Coffee Awards. “Best of the Best” and World Trade Platform, the first in bypassing costly intermediaries,” he “Coffee Lover’s Choice” awards. No Africa so far and – the second outside said. “This improves productivity coffee from any part of the world has China. The eWTP provides small and and profitability. There really are no ever picked up both awards, which medium-sized enterprises with the downsides to doing business on a was an achievement that will go chance to participate in the global global scale.” down into the history books. economy when that opportunity might otherwise be available only to As part of the collaboration, As reported on the NAEB Website

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 13 A NEW AFRICAN COFFEE BREEDING HUB IN RWANDA OPENS TO BENEFIT PRODUCTION THROUGHOUT AFRICA Coffee production throughout Africa is declining, due to a combination of aging trees, low- yielding varieties, disease and pests, and other factors. The need for resilient, healthy varieties is clear. In Rwanda, like many other coffee-growing countries in Africa, farmers do not have many choices about which varieties are available to them as far as, high-yielding potential, good-quality multiple stress resistance, and climate-change resilience are concerned.

ince 2011, RAB has run diseases and the effects of climate can serve as a “breeding pool” that a comprehensive coffee change. breeders can use for the creation Sbreeding program; among its of new F1 hybrid crosses. WCR successes is the recent release of the This month, we are making great will send seeds from the Core disease-resistant coffee variety RAB strides in this area with the launch of Collection to the hub in Rwanda C15 for coffee producers in Rwanda. our African breeding hub in Rwanda, so that breeders there will be able hosted by our partners at the to use this genetically diverse Rwanda Agriculture Board (RAB). breeding material for the creation of local varieties. Created in partnership with the Rwanda Agriculture Board, the WCR • WCR has created numerous F1 African breeding hub will provide hybrid crosses—hybrids bred breeding material for the creation of to be vigorous while also high local varieties, foster adaptation of in quality and yield—in Central other regions’ improved varieties, and America. Plants from 46 crosses much more. made in Central America have been sent to Rwanda so that Figure 1: The hub will enable breeders to This is WCR’s first breeding hub. The develop disease-resistant varieties, such as the hub breeders can test their Rwanda-created RAB C15. hubs serve as centralized locations performance in Africa through for countries in each region to access local adaptation trials. breeding populations, expertise, Since its creation in 2012, World and materials that can be utilized to Coffee Research (WCR) has worked • WCR will assist RAB and breeders create new coffee varieties for the to create a path for sustainable coffee from neighboring countries to benefit of local producers in each production through agricultural make new F1 hybrid crosses using country or region. innovation to help coffee farmers the Core Collection and the best face the challenges of climate available local varieties from each The African breeding hub will feature country, with the goal of creating change. One of our main areas of numerous activities, including: focus has been the creation and new F1 hybrid varieties that propagation of the next generation • Working with WCR’s Core specifically address local needs. of coffee varieties that are high in Collection—a collection of 100 • WCR will introduce molecular quality and yield, and resilient to genetically diverse coffees that breeding approaches to be used

14 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 Figure 2: F1 Hybrids are shipped to Rwanda as invitro plantlets and submitted to acclimatization process in RAB’s tissue culture facilities prior to multi-locational trials

by breeders at the hub. Molecular distribution systems, is expected coffee sector in the region,” breeding identifies the most to improve coffee productivity Chemutai says. important genetic components to and quality gains, not only in target in breeding and can speed Rwanda’s coffee industry, but With the African breeding hub now up the development of new also in Africa.” The hub will help launched in partnership with RAB varieties. create more modern varieties and NAEB, WCR is excited to present that will help coffee farmers in this resource to the continent’s • An annual breeders’ meeting Africa going forward. coffee-producing countries. “Helping will also take place through the coffee farmers navigate climate hub, convening researchers from While the breeding hub will be change takes global collaboration,” throughout Africa to learn the located in Rwanda, it will be used says Tim Schilling, WCR’s founder newest research and approaches by nations throughout East Africa. and CEO. “WCR is proud of its and share knowledge. Job Chemutai, a breeder-geneticist role in connecting countries and with Uganda’s National Coffee researchers around the world with The hub is expected to generate Research Institute (NaCORI), says his each other and the latest advanced the next generation of coffee organization—like RAB in Rwanda— science. It’s thrilling to see what we varieties that will be adapted has been working to identify varieties can do when we work together.” to various growing conditions that will combat the trend of low in Africa and sustain the yields. He is excited about how the industry’s genetic and breeding Rwanda hub, as well as a planned pools.- Simon Martin (PhD), Robusta-focused breeding hub in The Rwanda Agricultural Uganda, will help with that mission. Board coffee breeder. He also “I anticipate the breeding hubs says, the creation of new, to develop new improved coffee highly adaptable varieties, varieties, technologies, and useful coupled with a sustainable and coffee-related information for both effective seed production and coffee farmers and the promising

Figure 4: Figure 4: The African Coffee breeding hub is a collaborative initiative between World Coffee Research (Left. Dr. Christophe Montagnon), Rwanda Agricultural Export Development Board, NAEB (Middle. Dr. Celestin Gatarayiha) and Rwanda Agriculture and Animal Ressource Development Board, RAB (right. Dr. Simon Martin Mvuyekure)

Figure 3: The F1 hybrid evaluation trial in Southern (left) Eastern (right) Rwanda that WCR planted earlier this year in partnership with Rwanda Agricultural Board is looking good

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 15 BEYOND THE COFFEE BEAN; NEW FRONTIERS IN IMPROVING COFFEE PRODUCERS LIVELIHOODS THROUGH FAIRTRADE. Eastern Africa due to its ecology, climate, altitude, and rich coffee genus, is known to produce speciality coffee. Quality coffee starts with the producer whose family has likely spent generations perfecting their approach to farming highest quality coffee. Grown in select altitudes and climates and nursed for years before the first harvest, the producer who creates specialty coffee devotes his or her life to refining and perfecting some of the highest quality coffee on the planet.

n a nutshell, Fairtrade is an alternative approach to Iconventional trade based on a partnership between producers and traders, businesses and consumers. The international Fairtrade system - made up of Fairtrade International and its member organizations - represents the world’s largest and most recognized fair trade system. Shoppers can recognize products that meet the Fairtrade Standards by the FAIRTRADE Mark. It is through the Mark that we advocate for better working conditions and improved Coffee cherries ready for pulping. terms of trade for farmers and Photo credits: Roger Van Zaal workers across Africa and the Middle East. pound that farmers’ organizations based organization; coffee farmers Truly sustainable coffee does not can invest in community and in Machakos have been supported come cheap. Coffee farmers need a business projects or perhaps to adapt and mitigate the effects price that covers more than the costs bonuses to farmer members. Beyond of climate change especially with of production, a price that helps this Fairtrade supports farmer’s a decline in coffee production by provide for a dignified livelihood. As drive more benefits from coffee over 60% in the last 5 years. The the only certification that requires production activities and at the decline in production has led to buyers to pay a minimum price, same time overcome some of the farmer’s income loss and if no action Fairtrade recognizes the need to challenges especially those related is taken farmer’s livelihoods will be dignify people’s work with a fairer to climate change, gender and local significantly deprived. To ameliorate, price. Though Fairtrade Minimum market development. climatic effects, Machakos small Price provides stability to coffee coffee farmer members were thus farmers during volatile market A case in question is Machakos supported to commercialize their situations as it presently, it is not Cooperative Union in Kenya, a coffee operations through value meant to be a long-term support. member organization of Fairtrade addition; establishment of alternative That’s why Fairtrade also requires Africa. With support from Max income generating activities (AIGAs) companies to pay a separate Havelaar, Netherlands and in such as poultry, bee farming, and Fairtrade Premium of $0.20 per partnership with We Effect; a Swedish horticulture among others. These

16 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 enterprises provide much needed that supplements the organizations’ additional alternative incomes and income and also a social premium access to food, in case of coffee of 1 Euro per carbon credit that will failures. The farmers groups were be used for social development As the only also supported to establish a Village in their communities. At the same savings and loans association time the organizations are also certification that scheme. introducing a first Fairtrade certified robusta packaged coffee blend to requires buyers to Equally, there have been the Ugandan market, which will pay a minimum interventions towards sustainability also be available in the regional of the coffee sector. For instance, markets. Butonde coffee, as it has price, Fairtrade support has been advanced been christened is expected to earn recognizes the to enable the establishment of farmers, much better returns, toward improved coffee varieties, training attainment of a living income need to dignify on best agricultural practices people’s work with and agroforestry investment as For more details please contact our an approach for coffee shade communication team at: a fairer price... management. This, with the ultimate [email protected] objective of improved coffee quality for smallholder farmers, as well improved productivity. Preliminary results show increased production per tree from 1.8 kg of cherry to 3.2 A farmers tends to coffee kg. Bottom-line, climate change seedlings at Machakos experts use a farmer field school Cooperative Union Nursery ready to be distributed to approach where they provide farmers; training sessions to groups of local farmers who then go out into Photo credit, the field and train other farmers, Roger Van Zaal exponentially spreading the knowledge. The aim is to replicate this approach in other countries.

Secondly, in Uganda, three coffee producing organizations Ankole Coffee Producers Cooperative Union, Kibinge Coffee Farmers’ Cooperative Society and Banyankole Kwenterana Cooperative Union have joined hands to leverage coffee farming by-products as a source of additional income, improving livelihoods for their communities. Through a project Growing Resilient Enterprises in Agriculture Now (GREAN), these Fairtrade coffee small farmer organizations have set up enterprises for coffee husk briquettes production and also sales from an improved cooks stove.

These new enterprises are managed by the women and youth in the communities thus creating employment through the sales and repair of the improved cook stoves. Further, through the use of the briquette powered cook stoves, the project earns carbon credits

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 17 THE 4TH INTERNATIONAL COFFEE DAY. he International Coffee coffee that gives us the livelihood. Day 2018 was held on 5th When you talk about women, it TOctober 2018 at Mukono excites everybody but it leaves Zonal Research and Developmental both social and economic dilemma Institute, MUZARDI under the theme because many times the women “Celebrating Women In Coffee”. are not planned for or empowered. We therefore have to tap into our The day’s programme started with resources by investing in women exhibition tours where different through giving them information, companies and organizations educating and empowering them. showcased their coffee products for example Kibinge Coffee Ltd, The Executive Director, Uganda Kyagalanyi Coffee, IWCA, Uganda Coffee Development Authority, Dr. Coffee Development Authority and Emmanuel Iyamulemye appealed to so many others. the government to look into issues that affect production like lack of The coffee fraternity was well research fund, unfavourable taxes constituted at the event with farmers, and market for coffee. traders, processors, exporters, roasters and development partners UCDA pledged to continue represented as well as balanced in supporting women in various coffee terms of gender. activities so that they can become barristers, which would translate to The event was graced with several good farming practices, adherence speakers; Hon Vicent Bamulangaki to certification guidelines maximum Ssempijja who was the current benefits. Also advised women to find Minister of Agriculture, Fisheries ingenious ways of marketing their and Animal Husbandry, and the coffee and find innovative farming event’s chief guest, Hon Victoria practices for better yields. Women of Ssekitoleko who is the current Sironko were applauded for adopting chairperson of the IWCA Board, inter-cropping. and Dr Emmanuel Lyamulemye of UCDA who also headed the event’s Organizing committee. The speakers gave specific insights on women involvement in the coffee sector, which painted a picture of their achievements, challenges, and support gaps.

Hon.Victoria Ssekitoleko, the IWCA chairperson said that such events should be used to promote and celebrate coffee as a beverage. So today, we yet celebrate the women who grow, harvest and process the

18 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 RWANDAN COFFEE INDUSTRY GROWING

SUSTAINABLY Twenty years ago, Rwanda wasn’t by Christine Condo, Sustainable Growers Rwanda growing any Specialty Coffee but thanks to the enthusiastic support Christine Condo’s coffee career developed as an agronomist since she from the Rwandan Government graduated from university. ‘I learned many aspects of the coffee business. I’ve to about 400,000 coffee farmers, worked in farming, marketing, project development and management at all specialty coffee is now almost levels. It gives me the opportunity to make a difference in the lives of people 30% of the Rwandan coffee many overlook - the rural women and the families who grow coffee’, she says. market. This presented Rwanda Like her mother, Christine is committed to supporting women farmers her with the opportunity to host the whole life, and it is no surprise that she found her way to Sustainable Growers Cup of Excellence specialty coffee in the Rwandan Coffee Industry, since it shapes the economic and social competition. ‘We are recognized in landscape for rural women. the eyes of coffee aficionados now’, says Christine. ustainable Growers Rwanda weather cycles, we want to train started in 2013, as a partnership our farmers to be ready, so they The number of women cooperative Sbetween then called won’t have to abandon their crops. leaders making a name for Sustainable Harvest, the Government We want them to be Sustainable themselves is progressive for of Rwanda and Bloomberg Growers.’ example, Mayogi, a proud graduate Philanthropies. The aim was to help of our Sustainable Growers training Christine defines empowerment by women farmers in Kayonza and program, has won second place in self-reliance - that is, one’s ability to Nyaruguru increase their incomes the Cup of Excellence, commanding handle the twists and turns of life. through agronomic and business $9.00/lb. skills training. Sustainable Growers How well one can access a sense of recently changed their name to our own inner power is determined Rural women and girls would be make their purpose clear to everyone by how well we can overcome wise to think of coffee farming as an – they exist to support the growers. adversity, she says. agricultural business and themselves as entrepreneurs. Coffee can be In the coffee sector, we are not Sustainable Growers transforms a compelling career with many short of challenges to overcome. women from farmers to professional exciting disciplines to learn climate- If an organization is interested in business women who grow and smart agricultural practices, financial empowering women, they should trade specialty coffee. The farmers planning and administration, enable more women to be involved are equipped with skills needed to technology applications, marketing, in decision making processes ensure high quality coffee in order and wholesale and retail trading. to fetch higher prices. Research throughout the coffee value chain. states that production yields can ‘Asterie Mukangango, the President The Sustainable Growers program increase by at least 30% if women of Nyampinga Co-operative in helps women understand the are given the same productive Rwanda, inspires me. She is highly income opportunities in the entire resources as men. During the first committed, highly reliable and coffee value chain, on the farm harvest after Sustainable Growers purpose-driven. She has a big heart and beyond the coffee trees. Our training, graduates from the program and knows how to lead a team to get professional trainings extend to experienced a yield growth of a positive end result for everyone. coffee quality control, cupping, +300%. Costasie Nyirandekwe, the former barista and brewing training. President of Hinga Kawa Association, Through their convening platform Another aim is to help women and is also worthy of praise’, says Christine. knows as “Let’s Talk Coffee,” they their families professionalize their ‘She’s been a driving force in raising bring farmers face-to-face with approach to farming, and to take a the awareness of women and the international buyers and roasters long term, sustainable approach - Hinga Kawa brand in the Rwandan to meet and nurture professional another reason for the name change. coffee industry.’ ‘If output falls because of unexpected relationships.

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 19 The18TH 17th AFRICAN African FINE Fine COFFEE Coffee ConferenceCONFERENCE & &Exhibition EXHIBITION “Rwanda30th - Specialty October Coffees – 1st Nov atember the Heart 2019 of Africa”

13-15 FebruaryNungwi, 2019 | Kigali Zanzibar Convention Center, Rwanda

Co ee Field Visit dates: 10th -12th February 2019 THEME: SustainabilityDOMESTIC Forum: CONSUMPTION IN 12 FebruaryAFRICA 2019. & AFCA BARISTA RETREAT

#AFCA2019 www.afca.coffee/conference

CAMEROON 20 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 The 17th African Fine Coffee Conference & Exhibition Why attend the “Rwanda - Specialty Coffees at the Heart of Africa” Conference in Zanzibar? 13-15 February 2019 | Kigali Convention Center, Rwanda Here are 10 reasons

1 Zanzibar redefines East Africa’s tourism. Co ee Field Visit dates: 2 The host city, Nungwi, offers the most scenic coastal African experience ever. 10th -12th February 2019 3 Presentations and discussions from industry experts on how to drive domestic consumption. Sustainability Forum: 4 All major international airlines land in Zanzibar. 12 February 2019. 5 Walk along it pristine beaches every morning and evening on your way to the conference. 6 Historical monuments, world heritage sights and mouth-watering seafood. 7 Hundreds of producer organizations ready to do business with you. #AFCA2019 8 World Class and Renown Brand hotels along the Coast. www.afca.coffee/conference 9 In just under 30 minutes, you can visit the Dar es Salaam by Ferry and 10 minutes by light craft. 10 Main land Tanzania is home to World’s best Specialty Coffee.

To register for the 18th African Fine Coffees Conference and Exhibition please follow the link - www.afca.coffee/conference

CAMEROON African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 21 AFCA COFFEE

APROGRAMS: MESSAGE FROM THE CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

It is a pleasure to announce my appointment and commence as the new Chief Operations Officer at the AFCA Secretariat in Kampala September last year.

I am looking forward to work with all our members to move the African Coffee Industry forward, increase and promote overall quality & trade, create new market linkages for sustainable coffee relations and develop capacity in our industry.

I invite all AFCA members to take part in our new coffee programs to accomplish the above strategic goals and reach out to me if you have any proposals for collaboration, new product development, innovation & technology, research & knowledge creation or training with you in any of our AFCA member countries.

The AFCA Coffee Programs for 2019 are the following;

AFCA Conference & Exhibitions: 17th AFCA Conference & Exhibition, Rwanda 13-15 February 2019 18th AFCA Conference & Exhibition, Zanzibar 30 October - 1 November 2019 19th AFCA Conference & Exhibition, Mombasa 12-14 February 2020

22 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 AFCA Conference Coffee Programs: AFCA Knowledge Hub: Regional African Taste of Harvest African Fine Coffees Review Magazine African Barista Training Camp AFCA Coffee Institute AFCA B2B Taste of Harvest Pavilion Africa Coffee Outlook La Marzocco Technical Training AFCA Coffee Brew Bar AFCA Coffee Origin Trips AFCA Research Centre Kenya/Uganda Coffee Safari African Barista Championship Rwanda/Burundi Coffee Safari CQI Q Processing Training Brazil Coffee Educational Exchange AFCA Taste of Harvest Series: Burundi 24-28 September 2018 Ethiopia (washed) 4-8 February 2019 Zambia 24-26 October 2018 Regional African 11-12 February 2019 Malawi 24-26 October 2018 Ethiopia (naturals) 4-6 April 2019 Tanzania 20-23 November 2018 DRC (main crop) 29-31 May 2019 Uganda (arabica) 21-25 January 2019 Uganda (robusta) 8-10 July 2019 DRC (fly crop) 21-25 January 2019 Kenya (fly crop) June 2019 Kenya (main crop) 23-30 January 2019 Cameroon TBC AFCA Advanced Cupping Training: AFCA Advanced Processing Training: Ethiopia 1-3 April 2019 Rwanda 16-17 February 2019 Uganda 24-26 April 2019 Uganda 6-8 May 2019 Kenya 13-15 May 2019 Kenya 16-18 May 2019 Tanzania 13-15 May 2019 Tanzania 13-15 May 2019 DRC 27-29 May 2019 Ethiopia 13-18 October 2019 Zambia 21-23 October 2019 Malawi 21-23 October 2019 African National Barista Championships: AFCA Advanced Barista Training: Zambia 22-25 January 2019 Kenya 28 January 2019 Uganda 15-18 February 2019 Rwanda 12 February 2019 Kenya 31-2 February 2019 African Camp 13-14 February 2019 African 15 February 2019 Namibia 25-1March 2019 South Africa 21-24 February 2019 Burundi July 2019 Namibia 4-8 March 2019 Rwanda August 2019 Burundi February 2019 Tanzania 28-29 October 2019 Tanzania 30 October 2019 African Camp 31-1 November 2019 AFCA Market Linkages / International Coffee Events: Swiss Coffee Dinner, Switzerland 11-12 October 2018 May we work together for a Sustainable Resurgence of International Coffee Expo, China 16-18 November 2018 the African Coffee Industry Gulfhost, Dubai 17-21 February 2019 for the benefit of all. ICO Meeting, Kenya 25-29 March 2019 Kind Regards, SCA Expo, USA 11-14 April 2019 Nandi Jordan World of Coffees, Germany 6-8 June 2019 Chief Operations Officer ICO Meeting, London 23-27 September 2019 SCAJ, Japan 26-28 September 2019 Cafe Show, South Korea 7-10 November 2019

TO REGISTER FOR THE AFCA PROGRAMS please follow the link - www.afca.coffee/afca-programs

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 23 INTERNATIONAL WOMEN IN COFFEE ALLIANCE UGANDA CHAPTER IN A NEW LENS

The International Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA) Uganda Chapter is part of a global network of self-organized, self- governing women working for women Empowerment and inclusion to achieve sustainability across the coffee industry and communities. The IWCA Uganda Chapter formed in 2010 and attained its legal status in 2012.

in championing unrestricted, include the full-scale celebration meaningful involvement of of the fourth International Coffee women in coffee activities at Day (ICD) in Uganda celebrated on all levels. As part of the lobby Thursday 4 October 2018 at Mukono and advocacy approaches, the Zonal Agricultural Research and Chapter developed a new website, Development Institute (MUZARDI). https://www.iwcauganda.org. the At the event, the guest of honor, website continues to serve as the Minister for Agriculture, Animal mouthpiece for disseminating Industry and Fisheries, Hon. essential information about the Vincent Bamulangaki Ssempiijja activities and plans for the effective was in attendance—and helped to engagement of women in all coffee advance the message of full women value chains in Uganda. involvement in economic activities, notably within the agricultural COLOR SORTERS Proactive, full-scale involvement sector, and the coffee sub-sector is motivated by the Chapter’s in particular. Other participants transformative action that began in ur vision, mission and core included Members of Parliament, March 2018 and ushered in a new values are in alignment with representatives from government board with a vibrant agenda for the those of the IWCA at the ministries, departments and Ugandan women. PUT MORE O agencies, members of parliament, global level. We envision a society where women are empowered to development in agriculture, A new nine-member Board of researchers, representatives from equitably get involved in decision- Governors, comprising eight women making at all levels within the agricultural research institutions and PROFIT IN and one man, Chaired by former private sector actors in the coffee coffee value chain in Uganda. Our Minister for Agriculture, Animal mission is to empower women in value chain, and more than 200 Industry and Fisheries, Hon. Victoria coffee farmers. Other notable events the coffee community to achieve Sekitoleko, is responsible for steering EVERY BEAN. (in 2018) in which IWCA Uganda meaningful and sustainable lives; the chapter to new great heights . and to encourage and recognize the Chapter has or is participating participation of women in all aspects Participation in coffee activities include the 122nd Session of the of the coffee industry in Uganda. and coffee events is one way the International Coffee Council at IWCA Uganda Chapter is doing International Maritime Organization The IWCA Uganda Chapter has its outreach, lobby and advocacy Headquarters, London, 17-21 been, and remains at the forefront activities. Some of the recent events September 2018 and the Hainan Always a Step Ahead

24 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 DeltaTechnology.com | 1602 Townhurst | Houston, Texas 77043 USA | +1.713.464.7407 | Fax: +1.713.461.6753 International Coffee Congress and a key to unlock the methodologies and recognition of the role that Beverage Expo, People’s Republic of that will best suit the advocacy women are playing. China that took place in 14- 19th process. The issues that affect the November 2018. women of Uganda along the coffee In addition to increasing value chain; plans are now underway membership; the IWCA Uganda With support from our key to mobilize the essential resources for Chapter has tabled and maintains partners, most notably the USAID the launch of Women in Coffee lobby an ambitious to-to list, prioritizing Uganda Feed the Future Enabling and advocacy campaign to address lobbying and advocacy for women Environment for Agriculture; Rain the identified prioritized issues. to stimulate meaningful, sustainable Forest Alliance (UTZ) the chapter’s and women-led economic growth in capacity continues to be built to To effectively lobby and advocate for Uganda’s coffee sector as well as to lobby and advocate for women in the women in the coffee value chains unrestricted participation of women coffee. The chapter has identified the chapter is on track to finalize the throughout the coffee value chains and prioritized the key issues IWCA Uganda Chapter three-year in Uganda and beyond. affecting women along the value Strategic Plan, covering the period chain. Top on the list is limited access 2019-2021. The process to formulate to markets; lack of prioritization the Strategic Plan was enriched with of issues affecting women in the input from key stakeholders during a agricultural value chains and low two-day Consultative Workshop held participation of women at the from 6-7 November 2018 in Mukono. decision-making levels of the value chain. The Chapter also initiated “Women in Coffee News”, a quarterly newsletter. Another key milestone reached In addition to the website, the is in the development of a lobby newsletter is serving as one of the and advocacy strategy has been ways in which we are lobbying and developed with support from UTZ advocating for recognition of women Rainforest Alliance, and this provides in coffee, for policy reform in favour

COLOR SORTERS PUT MORE PROFIT IN EVERY BEAN.

Always a Step Ahead

DeltaTechnology.com | 1602 TownhurstAfrican | Houston, Fine Coffees TexasReview 77043Magazine |USA January-March | +1.713.464.7407 2019 | Volume 8 | |Issue Fax: 2 +1.713.461.675325 STRONG BLACK COFFEE WHY AREN’T AFRICAN-AMERICANS MORE PROMINENT IN THE COFFEE INDUSTRY? By Phyllis Johnson As profiled in the Nov/Dec Roast Magazine

esearch shows that African- of African descent continue to development, trade, retail, roasting, Americans are less likely play a key role in its production. So equipment manufacturing, training/ Rthan other ethnic groups how is it that African-Americans education, marketing or other areas. in the United States to select are only loosely connected to this Recently, however, I am starting to coffee as a beverage of choice. long-standing historical continuum see some changes as more African- Yet coffee’s history links major in coffee, finding themselves Americans are becoming visible in contributions not only to Africa underrepresented as consumers as the industry. As part of my research but the diaspora around the globe. well as professionals in the coffee for this article, I interviewed 14 other Ethiopia is praised as the birthplace industry? And how can we as an black coffee professionals, and they of coffee, and for giving us some industry bridge this gap? confirmed many of my personal of the most prized coffees in the thoughts about the industry and world. African enslavement was the In close to 20 years of working in how we can improve. original source of labor for coffee’s coffee, I have met too few African- production in Brazil, the Caribbean Americans employed in the and the West Indies, and farmers industry, whether in international

26 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 The Past Informs the Present beverages, non-espresso-based United States. As U.S. demographics beverages, traditional coffee- continue to evolve, it will be Racism, inequality and the effects gourmet and ready-to-drink coffee interesting to see how marketing will of slavery are human diseases that beverages—the 2018 survey follow. have left crowded rooms filled indicates 42 percent of African- with little gender or racial diversity. Americans drink beverages in this The data clearly reinforces the fact The coffee industry must not shy category, compared to 64 percent of that African-Americans aren’t major away from these difficult subjects. Hispanic-Americans, 53 percent of coffee consumers, and I believe the These are not sidebar issues to be Caucasian-Americans and 59 percent coffee industry is missing out on discussed from time to time by of Asian-Americans. several fronts because of this lack of the few diverse individuals who sit engagement. African-Americans are outside these rooms, falling onto A summary of the NCDT notes that underrepresented in an industry in the ears of the highly empathic to African-Americans always have which they should have prominence the unconcerned and everywhere reported lower percentages of coffee and great pride. in between, yet left without consumption when compared to action. These issues are major Hispanic-Americans and Caucasians. When I pick up a cup of coffee at the contributing factors to the state of airport, I notice the large number of our industry and society at large. One of the key areas that may explain black employees working in cafes Shying away from understanding lower participation among some and food service. The majority of or acting against these difficult African-Americans is a misperception the customers being served are realities is like pretending coffee of the health effects of coffee, as the not black. Standing in line, I think rust disease doesn’t exist—what summary further states that there is a about my journey in coffee. I wonder devastating impact this would have general desire to limit caffeine intake about the employees’ understanding on the livelihood of farmers, local in exchange for beverages that are of coffee beyond the preparation economies and the global coffee thought to contain more healthful of beverages with fancy names world. Similarly, when we continue ingredients. and complex recipes. Do they to ignore and normalize the effects understand the history of coffee? of racism and inequality within the Marketing also plays a key role in this Not the watered-down version industry, we cannot expect positive equation. Producers of carbonated that makes everyone comfortable, outcomes. beverages and juices have been but the uncomfortable parts also. quite successful in targeting Would understanding this history Dr. Bryan Stevenson, founder of the marketing campaigns toward offer more freedom, permission and nonprofit Equal Justice Initiative, African-American communities, pride? Could this foster a feeling offered his perspective on PBS and African-Americans over-index of empowerment, and thus cause NewsHour in 2017, saying, “I don’t on consumption levels in these greater interest to do more in coffee? think slavery ended in 1865, it just product categories. According to evolved. We are burdened by our the Technomic Consumer Tracker Understanding Coffee’s History history of racial inequality. … We Survey, African-Americans over-index have made progress, but our silence on overall consumption at home The history of coffee is both has condemned us.” and away from home on fruit juices, fascinating and tragic. Working with 68 percent of African-Americans through this unpleasant history is African-Americans Choose Coffee drinking fruit juices once a week necessary for everyone involved Less Often versus 55 percent of consumers in coffee. For some, this history is a overall. In addition, 60 percent source of empowerment; for others, The National Coffee Association USA of African-Americans consume it is a source of anger, hurt and (NCA) provides research data on carbonated soft drinks once a week shame. Unfortunately, for many this U.S. coffee consumption through versus 51 percent of consumers history is unknown. its annual National Coffee Drinking overall. Trends (NCDT) survey. Established It’s important that we understand in 1950, it’s the longest-running Celebrity endorsements for coffee and acknowledge this history. coffee survey in the United States. tend to come from middle- We must not let the historical The NCDT consistently shows that, aged white men, while celebrity perspective of those who carried in comparison to other ethnic endorsements for carbonated the bean to different parts of the groups, African-Americans are less beverages and fruit juices more often world—the missionaries, travelers, likely to choose coffee as a preferred come from young black athletes traders and colonists—overshadow beverage. or musicians. Research shows that the contributions of those who more women drink coffee than men, labored in coffee production. The first As an example, in the category of and Hispanics are the largest coffee- coffees exported to North America “gourmet coffee beverages (net)”— consuming ethnic group in the and Europe were harvested by slaves. which includes espresso-based Later, enslaved Africans prepared and

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 27 served coffees for their slave owners, Coffee Will Make You Black: My came in 2001. Although my initial when they were not laboring in the Childhood Relationship with plan was to focus on coffees from fields. In the book Slavery in America: Coffee Africa, I had never traveled to Africa, From Colonial Times to the Civil War, and I was afraid. It was suggested authors Dorothy Schneider and Carl Myths or strong negative beliefs that I travel to Costa Rica first. J. Schneider quote slave owner Henry about coffee aren’t known to be Watson referring favorably to his widespread in the African-American I started second-guessing my house servant’s coffee-making skills, community, but they do exist. decision to attend the Costa Rica saying, “Ellen is a good milker, a negro In reflecting on my childhood coffee conference soon after I rarely is. She makes good bread ... She memories and first interactions with arrived. I don’t speak Spanish, and makes excellent coffee.” the beverage, I recall Sanka instant the attendees were predominantly coffee in our kitchen cabinet and, men in suits. I stepped outside to According to Uncommon Grounds: from time to time, I would sneak a take a break—and to seriously reflect The History of Coffee and How It sip of my mother’s coffee. My mom on the bad idea of starting a coffee Transformed Our World by Mark always added sugar and milk, and I company and traveling to Costa Pendergrast, coffee first came to loved the taste of her coffee. Coffee Rica—when a nice lady walked up what is now the United States and was forbidden for children in my to me. to Europe between 1650 and 1700. household, and sneaking a sip when As we trace the bean that started in she wasn’t looking was a thrill. My “Here’s a lady with the right idea, Africa and spread throughout the mom repeated a myth about coffee sitting in the sun,” she said. Then world, slave ships departed West that had been passed down from came a barrage of questions and Africa to put in place forced labor previous generations: “That coffee is excitement, as she asked me, “What to ensure an adequate supply of gonna make you black,” she would do you do in coffee, and where are production to meet demand. As say when I was caught sipping from you from?” She invited me to join demand for coffee grew during this her cup. her, her husband and their friends period, so did enslavement, which for lunch. Eunice Salter didn’t work was used to sustain production. It’s a clear and familiar warning that in coffee. Her husband did, and she resonates among some African- was tagging along on the trip. After For decades, this tragedy played out. Americans. The idea that coffee could lunch, this woman I had never met In Brazil, slavery ended in 1888; in the permanently change the pigment of before, and haven’t spoken to since United States, in 1865. It’s important a child’s skin into a darker shade was that day in Costa Rica 17 years ago, to note that the United States did not clearly an undesirable feature. went on to share some encouraging ban the import of goods produced advice. from forced labor until 2015, with a Colorism, a prejudice favoring bill signed by America’s first African- lighter skin within an ethnic “You have a great purpose in coffee,” American president, Barack Obama. group, was alive and well in my she told me. “Center yourself, and childhood, and remains prevalent build a business.” While I could focus on the horrid throughout the world among many treatment and shortened life ethnic groups. The sad notion that Looking back, I realize how important expectancies of the enslaved, I will physical characteristics linked to it was for me that she acknowledged instead reflect on an incredible lady I race have negative connotations my challenges and recognized that recently learned about, Rose Nicaud, dates back much further than a few I was an African-American woman an enslaved woman in the United generations in my family’s history— with a big dream that I didn’t fully States who bought her freedom by such misleading thoughts can be understand at the time. I believe that selling hot coffee. Nicaud is credited traced back to what at the time was instrumental in my having the with being the first person to set were respected but highly confused courage to make my trip a success up a mobile shop near the New American physicians who wrote and continue toward my dream. Orleans French Market. She was broadly on the subject during the Encouragement and recognition of successful in selling enough coffee to mid-19th century, erroneously tying my humanity was all I needed that purchase her freedom. Her success skin color (and shades of color) to day, and she was there to provide it. further allowed her to move into a inherent physical and mental abilities. permanent shop. Nicaud inspired A few months ago, when I ran other enslaved women to follow Champions across my diary from that trip, I her example, developing their own thought about the many trips I’d coffee blends. In her book Women I moved past these childhood myths made to Africa and other parts of in New Orleans: A History, author to start a coffee company, with little the world since I met Eunice Salter. Mary Gehman credits Nicaud with knowledge about the product or I thought about all the boards I’ve starting the growth of coffee shops the industry. Somehow, I knew I had the pleasure of serving on, throughout the city. could learn what I needed. My first and I thought about the hope I international business trip in coffee still carry for our industry. I’ve had

28 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 numerous champions throughout Americans in the coffee industry, us to uplift each other through my life who have invited me to the something he had noticed when understanding and respecting our table. I encourage you to look for attending conferences in the United shared history. Coffee is a major opportunities whenever possible to States. He thought I would know the part of our history, and it has a way invite more people to your table. answer, as my husband and I were of bringing people together. I am the only African-Americans he’d met proud and respectful of Africa’s Moving Forward Together working in coffee. Unfortunately, contributions to coffee around the I was unable to offer much of world. In some ways, we have moved on an explanation at the time, and from the past and operate with I would bet his interactions with In 2019, the African Fine Coffees a new sense of awareness. While African-Americans in coffee haven’t Association (AFCA) conference will we could never imagine enslaved increased significantly over the past be held in Kigali, Rwanda. I hope to workers harvesting and preparing two decades. share some of what I have learned our coffees, we must responsibly ask on my journey in coffee, as I am ourselves questions and consider Over the years, I’ve come to honored to serve as keynote speaker. where African descendants are realize that the challenges African- As an African-American woman, I am in coffee today. This is a question Americans face in building a business especially proud of this honor. I no that rings in my head in most large in coffee aren’t so different from the longer have to dream of traveling business gatherings. What is the challenges others face; however, to Africa, but I do dream of sharing status of this group of people that the additional burden of having a what has empowered me in my contributed so significantly to what lack of representation, little sense journey. My wish is to help empower we enjoy? Coffee is an important of belonging, and virtual invisibility others who are trying to find their industry in the United States. In within the industry have a profound way and understand their story. 2015, for example, coffee was impact on the success of an responsible for 1.7 million U.S. jobs, individual and their business. represented 1.6 percent of the gross domestic product (GDP), and had My hope is that more African- an annual economic output value Americans and those from the of $225 billion, according to a report African diaspora will continue published by the NCA that year. joining the industry throughout the supply chain, bringing incredible Our connections to products we talent while understanding our purchase may run deeper than we deeply rooted connections. We all realize, and span generations and share in the tragic history of coffee. across oceans. Time and again multi- We are part of a society that will generational coffee companies tell advance when we start to see value their stories, connecting the present in our history, push toward a better day to an ancestor or ancestors who understanding of what’s behind the came to the United States and began numbers and the actions, and find roasting and selling coffee. These greater ways to foster meaningful immigrant-owned businesses served engagement—but it has to start with as a basis for what we see today as understanding and acknowledging Stubblefield courtesyPhoto of D’Onna companies deeply rooted in the coffee’s complex and often industry. uncomfortable history. “I’m not outspoken because it’s fun. I’m outspoken because We must consider the need for Driving progress within the industry I want coffee to be better. greater engagement by African to solve this complex issue will not descendants beyond the lens of Extraction and racism are be simple. I believe the best way to both terms that need to be securing a new market and gaining find solutions is to start by asking fully understood by coffee new consumers. The industry questions. “Simple Questions to professionals. The greatest misses out on opportunities to Build a More Diverse Organization” opportunity I see in building gain knowledge and creativity from on page 44 offers some sample a black community in coffee is an ethnic group that represents questions for business owners and that we’re finding each other, more than 13 percent of the U.S. others in positions of power to use as and we’re helping each other.” population, with deeply rooted a jumping-off point. contributions in coffee. —D’Onna Stubblefield, coffee It is my hope as an African-American consultant, New York Almost two decades ago, a black and member of the diaspora that Kenyan coffee exporter asked me together we can build connections why he had not seen any African- from a torn past that will allow

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 29 Andrea Illy, Chairman of illycaffè, presents the 2018 Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award to Rwanda’s Ngororero Coffee Washing Station, represented by Ms. Philotée Muzika, designating their coffee beans as “Best of the Best.”

RWANDA’S NGORORERO COFFEE WASHING STATION AWARDED BOTH “BEST OF THE BEST” AND “COFFEE LOVER’S CHOICE” HONORS IN THIRD ANNUAL ERNESTO ILLY INTERNATIONAL COFFEE AWARD Source: ILLY Café Website

irst time both honors bestowed upon one coffee headquarters. All nine finalists, spanning four continents, lot in history of Award; determined by blind are ingredients in the legendary illy blend, celebrated Ftastings by expert jury and consumers. for decades for its unparalleled richness, complexity and consistency. New York, October 5, 2018 – After rounds of blind tastings by an international independent jury of top culinary and “It is an honor and a pleasure to recognize Ngororero Coffee coffee experts, illycaffè, the global leader in high-quality, Washing Station and Ms. Muzika for their achievement, and sustainably grown coffee, announced that coffee beans that of all of our finalists, who are focused on producing the grown by Rwanda’s Ngororero Coffee Washing Station, highest-quality coffee through sustainable methods,” said represented by Ms. Philotée Mukiza, were designated Andrea Illy, Chairman of illycaffè. “This week celebrates an “Best of the Best” in the third annual 2018 Ernesto Illy even greater theme, and that is the enormous dedication, International Coffee Award (EIICA). The award winner pride and talent of the world’s 25 million coffee-growing was chosen from among the world’s top lots from the families, who fill our cups, and replenish our souls, every 2017/2018 harvests in nine countries, whose growers day.” On Monday, to mark International Coffee Day, illycaffè attended a gala at the Rainbow Room last night. A focused its efforts on honoring women coffee growers, separate “Coffee Lover’s Choice” award, presented by who are responsible for nearly half of the world’s coffee United Airlines, was also conferred to Ms. Mukiza on behalf production. of Ngororero Coffee Washing Station. EIICA, named for illycaffè’s visionary, second-generation Alongside Rwanda, coffee beans from Brazil, Colombia, leader, celebrates his company’s hand-in-hand work Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Guatemala, India and with farmers for the past 27 years to realize his dream of Nicaragua were chosen to compete as finalists, following offering the best coffee to the world, and his commitment intensive analysis at illy’s Quality Lab at its Trieste, Italy to improving the well-being of the world’s coffee growers.

30 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 We need to talk

more about price and retail outlets are cited for the high percentages they By Philip Schluter take of retail prices, without recognition of the size of the investment needed, nor the fierce competition and love being in the speciality side of the coffee industry. minimal net margins. It is a daily pleasure to interact with professionals who It is fact that, in a cup of coffee sold in a café, the cost of the care primarily about quality, and do not base all their I 8-10 grams of roasted coffee used to make it represents buying decisions on price. only a tiny fraction of the total cost of the beverage. Rent, It is encouraging to focus on finding the unique, and staff time, milk, heating, lighting etc.. all contribute more the outstanding. It is fulfilling to celebrate excellence in costs than the coffee itself. That is reality, and something harvesting, and processing. we need not shy away from as an industry, but something we need to explain, recognise and understand. Quality itself leads to sustainability, through generating premiums and bringing in new coffee consumers who Big data, and the systems which are being developed to taste a product which excites them. enable it, offer a unique opportunity for the coffee industry to promote price transparency and understanding, We talk a lot about sustainability at conferences like opening the door to exploring together what can be AFCA, and at almost every coffee meeting I attend. As an done to improve the incomes of the famers who need it industry we are one of the most advanced in recognizing most, and ensure that we enjoy the variety of coffees and and addressing the issues of sustainability. However, I origins which exist today. What percentage of roasters or believe that in all our discussions about sustainability, traders have a comprehension of what a price of 10 Birr we fail to achieve much unless we are willing to include per kg of cherry means to an Ethiopian coffee farmer? As discussions on price – particularly prices paid to farmers. I write this, I am painfully aware that I have not enough concept myself of what 10 Birr can buy in the context of It is reality that not many farmers in Africa attend the average Ethiopian farmer’s household budget. conferences. Few have the income or the inclination to attend, and yet they are at the forefront of future Coffee – and speciality coffee in particular – offers production, of environmental issues, and of the opportunities to make significant inroads into meeting sustainability of the industry. The first thing a farmer many of the UN Sustainable Development Goals – one generally wants to know is what price they are going to cup, one bag, or one container at a time. However, the receive for their coffee. Especially in an African smallholder positive impact with be greatly increased if everyone in context, it is still extraordinary that so many farmers do the supply chain understands the economics of it better, not drink coffee, and thus have no concept of how to and is able to see how it can be used for good. This requires value the product on which their family income depends. transparency on both the cost of production, and the cost of consumption, and more discussion on price. There are several reasons why price is not discussed more openly in the coffee industry. Perhaps foremost, there is So why do we not talk about it more? Yes, there is fear understandable fear in all parts of the coffee supply chain of losing margins. We are also jaded by occasional that transparency will lead to the loss of income. There is misrepresentation by a media which is often happy to some truth in this derived from a lack of understanding, publish sensational figures with little explanation in order which itself is a product of a lack of transparency. to sell stories, or garner support for a cause. Often the Transparent margins can easily be misconstrued and cause is noble, whilst the tactics used to raise support for attacked by people with little comprehension of the costs it are less so. We have some restrictions imposed by anti- involved in delivering each vital part of the coffee supply trust legislation – perhaps though quoted sometimes as chain. Successful roaster brands are attacked for their high much as an excuse as a reality. And finally there is the fact margins, without recognition of the years of investment in that it is simply too complicated. We have futures markets both time and money which have gone into developing which move daily, exchange rates, differentials, transport them, nor the fact that they are the best at what they do, costs, interest rates which vary wildly from region to and that the have survived where many others have tried region, along with a myriad of risks managed by each part and failed. Traders are attacked for what are seemingly of the supply chain. high margins, without recognition that the gross margins on which the trade operates are wafer-thin, and that large We must not let the complications cause us to shy away numbers are generated by large volumes. Supermarkets from acting. So, let’s talk more about price.

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 31 COFFEE PRICES ON A DOWNWARD TREND PUSHED BY EXCESS SUPPLY AND THE STRONG PACE OF EXPORTS Coffees prices fell in in November 2018, following the modest recovery recorded in October 2018. The largest decreases occurred in the average price for Robustas and Brazilian Naturals, which fell by 2.1% to 83.52 US cents/lb and by 2.0% to 113.27 US cents/lb, respectively.

The market is over supplied with on record for October shipments. significant volumes exported. This rise was driven by shipments of green coffee. It was also the largest year 2017/18. Global Output October shipment in the last five Colombia’s exports are estimated years. In coffee year 2017/18, global output, at one million bags, 11% lower than estimated at 163.51 million bags, Shipments of green Robusta reached October 2017, due to the smaller exceeded world consumption, 364,715 bags in October 2018 and volume of production this past year. estimated at 161.93 million bags, shipments for April 2018 to October In the year ending October 2018, by 1.59 million bags. This excess in 2018 amounted to 1.95 million bags, Colombia exported 12.6 million bags, supply has put downward pressure which compares to just 159,818 bags compared to 13.38 million bags one on prices that may continue over the exported in the same period one year ago. next few months. year ago. This indicates that Brazil’s Conclusion Robusta crop has recovered from World coffee exports reached drought in previous years. 10.41 million bags in October 2018, World production increased by 4.8% to an estimated at 163.51 million compared with 8.89 million in Exports of green Arabica reached bags, exceeding consumption October 2017. This is an increase of 15.27 million bags in the first seven by 1.59 million bags. This excess 17% and is the largest volume on months of Brazil’s 2018/19 crop in supply and the strong pace of record shipped in October. year, 4.1% higher than last year. exports has put downward pressure However, this is lower than the 16.24 on global coffee prices. Prices In the twelve months ending million bags shipped in April 2016 to may remain low over the next few October 2018, exports of Arabica October 2016, which is the previous months as output from October totalled 77.56 million bags, on-year for Arabica production. Total to September harvests is coming compared to 75.74 million bags last coffee shipments in the 12 months to market at levels similar to or year. Meanwhile, Robusta exports ending October 2018 rose by 5.4% to greater than last year. Output from amounted to 45.95 million bags 33.18 million bags. compared to 42.77 million bags the largest producing countries Vietnam’s exports are estimated is anticipated to remain stable or Overall, In the twelve months ending at 2.1 million bags in October 2018 increase in coffee year 2018/19. October 2018, global shipments compared with 1.38 million bags in Global economic growth is not amounted to 123.5 million bags, 4.2% October 2017. Exports for the year expected to surpass 2017, which higher than last year ending October 2018 are estimated could limit growth in global coffee consumption. Brazil’s exports in October 2018 at 29.37 million bags, 28% higher increased by 29.1% to 3.75 million than in the same period last year, © 2018 International Coffee Organization (www. bags, which is the largest volume reflecting the larger harvest in crop ico.org) Coffee Market Report – November 2018

32 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 SCA Launches New Initiative to Address the Coffee Price Crisis and Appoints New Executive Director Today the staff and volunteers of the profitability of $2.50/lb. Most recently, sector and academia to explore Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) the issue was underlined when in alternative price discovery tools for are pleased to announce the launch August 2018 the commodity futures the specialty coffee industry of the Coffee Price Crisis Response price dropped below $1.00/lb. Initiative aimed at understanding and • Outline alternative economic addressing the price crisis affecting The SCA Board of Directors recently models for the specialty coffee trade coffee farmers and threatening directed staff to explore options and provide a meaningful way for our supply chain as a whole. The for focusing additional resources to companies to address risks in the effort will be led by Ric Rhinehart understanding and addressing the supply chain who will be stepping down from issue. To that end, SCA is launching this his role as Executive Director of the major new initiative as an organization, The work of taking SCA into the future association to be succeeded by Yannis allocating substantial resources, both and accomplishing the many critical Apostolopoulos, the current Deputy human and financial, to expanding our projects and objectives laid out in our Executive Director. role and response to the coffee price strategic plan will continue to rest in crisis.In its first year, the Coffee Price the hands of the Executive Team, led The coffee value chain is long and Crisis Response Initiative will aim to by Yannis Apostolopoulos, our current most coffee producers are not paid accomplish the following objectives: Deputy CEO, who will become the enough for their coffee to maintain new CEO and Executive Director. Ric profitable farming operations. This • Increase funding and resources Rhinehart will devote his full attention should not be news to anyone who allocated to better understanding to the initiative as SCA Executive has been paying attention in the coffee the topic in collaboration with Director Emeritus. industry; we have been hearing about the staff and volunteer advisory this problem from coffee farmers, councils of the SCA’s Advocacy and The SCA’s Coffee Price Crisis Response producing country institutions, and Sustainability Centers Initiative is critical to the future of producer advocates for a long time. A the industry and in keeping with our 2017 literature review on coffee farm • Conduct research on the coffee purpose as an association: to foster a profitability conducted by the SCA price crisis and its effects on global coffee community and support revealed nuances that included among producers and the entire value chain activity to make specialty coffee a its conclusions a price threshold for thriving, equitable and sustainable • Convene experts from the private activity for the entire value chain.

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 33 Boma FCS was started in 1999 and has grown to become one of the best models of an FCS and the well-paying in the Fort Ternan region. 2018 AFCA COFFEE SAFARI TO RIFT VALLEY AND MT. ELGON REGION AFCA organised for the first time, a coffee safari to the Rift certified coffee cooperatives to valley region in Kenya and the Mt. Elgon region in both Kenya embrace gender mainstreaming and Uganda. Six members from Angola, Brazil, Taiwan and USA in its operations. They registered a women member’s association, participated in the safari that was scheduled for 12th – 17th Kabng’etuny Women in Coffee, November 2018. who produce and supply Fairtrade coffee and receive their proceeds he objective of the safari delivery of cherry to the dried directly. The women’s group has was to expose the buyers to parchment. Each of the wet mills trained on Good Agricultural Ta different coffee growing had a unique way of handling the Practices (GAPs) towards increasing region, allowing them to interact cherry to ensure that the quality coffee quality and yield. They have and nurture relationships with the was maintained. also ventured into value addition coffee at their birthplace. and now package their coffee Boma FCS was started in 1999 and under their own brand; Zawadi The tour started with the Kenyan has grown to become one of the Coffee. coffee safari to Fort Ternan, Kericho best models of an FCS and the County in the Rift Valley region. well-paying in the Fort Ternan The Kabng’etuny Women in Coffee Here, the tour was to wet and dry region. Kabng’etuny FCS. came Association has also supported mills. The wet mills visited were to operation as an FCS in 1985. It the adoption and construction Boma and Kabng’etuny Farmers’ was formerly owned by an Italian of domestic biogas units for 300 Cooperative Societies (FCS). settler in the period 1923-1970’s. households of their members, thus Both are affiliate societies of the Kabng’etuny FCS partnered with reducing over-reliance on firewood Kipkelion District Coffee Union. Fairtrade Africa (FTA) and received and charcoal. They then use the training on Good Agricultural bio-slurry waste from the biogas as At the wet mills, the participants Practices (GAPS), Gender a cheap source of organic fertilizer interacted first hand with the Mainstream and Nutrition. They for sustainable production of coffee primary processing of coffee from became one of the 1st Fairtrade and other food crops.

34 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 AFCA Guests at the World At the highest level of Mt. Elgon was Chebwek FCS at Renowned Sipi Falls approximately 2,000 metres above sea level. This is one of three coops in the area being supported by CMS

Kipkelion Coffee mill is the only dry the group witnessed a whole new Enterprises Ltd, formed by a union of mill in the South Rift Region serving processing experience. The Sipi seven primary societies. over 35,000 farmers and markets their washing station undertakes wet, coffee through Kenya Cooperative honey and natural processing. They In spite of the long distances during Coffee Exporters. The dry mill started are particularly intense and are the coffee tour, the team was excited operation in January 2013 and is expanding their natural processing to have learnt and experienced the a project of the Kipkelion District project since their clientele for coffees at their birthplace, cherishing Coffee Union, Kericho County. The natural coffees is growing. the uniqueness of each coffee. Union was registered in 2009 and has a membership of 32 Coffee Farmers’ The coffee tour in Mbale was to AFCA appreciates all who Cooperative societies drawn from Kyagalanyi, Greatlakes Coffee participated at the coffee tour, and Kericho, Nandi and Bomet Counties. Ltd (GCL) and Mountain Harvest is committed to keep the flames SMC. At each of these premises, of the relationships formed with all The next stop after the Rift Valley there was something new for the acquaintances met growing. region was the Mt. Elgon region, group to learn and experience. At Bungoma County, Kenya. At the Kyagalanyi, the group witnessed the Mt. Elgon, the participants had a use of enzymes for the fermentation chance to visit three wet mills that process in one of their washing are located at different level points stations, Buzibiti Washing Station. of Mt. Elgon. At the highest level Special fermentation tank has been of Mt. Elgon was Chebwek FCS at installed, where once the pulped Kabng’etuny Women in approximately 2,000 metres above coffee gets to the tank, enzymes are Coffee Association has also sea level. At the middle level was released to allow fermentation. This New Chesikaki FCS and Nakayonjo process takes approximately 4 days. supported the adoption FCS was at the lower level point of and construction of Mt. Elgon. The 3 cooperative societies Greatlakes Coffee have developed domestic biogas units for have partnered with CMS to train traceability and transparency app. 300 households of their farmers on GAPs to improve on the They have registered all their farmers members, thus reducing production and quality of their on the app and can trace the over-reliance on firewood coffee. production trend, the quality and and charcoal. They then prices for each household/farmer. use the bio-slurry waste After an intense tour in Kenya, it was The app has assisted GLC develop from the biogas as a cheap time to cross the border to Uganda. sustainability programs for training source of organic fertilizer The group travelled to Kapchorwa the farmers. for sustainable production of and Mbale for the coffee tour. coffee and other food crops. Mountain Harvest SMC Ltd (MH), In Kapchorwa, the tour was to Sipi founded by Lutheran World Relief Falls Washing Station, a project of works directly with a cooperative Kawacom. Kawacom is the Ugandan society to market their coffee. The branch of the ECOM Agro-Industrial cooperative society is Mt.Elgon Group. At this washing station, Agrofore Communities Cooperative

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 35 MEMBER PROFILES

eri Hi y ll s N

Coffee

ARCHDIOCESE OF NYERI HILL FARM WORLD COFFEE RESEARCH Nyeri Hill Farm was established by the Consolata Fathers in World Coffee Research is the only organization in the world 1914, the main mission being to generate income to facilitate applying advanced agricultural science for coffee on a world- evangelization, eradicate poverty and diseases. The whole farm wide, pre-competitive, collaborative basis. WCR enables the is over 3,000 Acres out of which 825 Acres are under Coffee. global coffee industry to invest in advanced agricultural R&D This ranks the farm among the oldest and the largest coffee to transform the coffee sector and make coffee a vital source plantations in Africa. Within the farm are 23 Institutions which of global human progress in the 21st century. Companies like includes Schools and colleges, Hospitals, and early Childhood Keurig Green Mountain, Starbucks, Illy, and Royal Cup Coffee education facilities. Other farm activities include Tea, Livestock (and over 80 others) support our cutting-edge research to management, Horticulture and Afforestation. create new varieties and market opportunities for farmers because they recognize it is an essential precondition for PHYSICAL FEATURES,COFFEE PRODUCTION AND farmers to achieve sustainable livelihoods. QUALITY; The Farm is on an altitude of between 1800m - 2000mm WCR is developing the next generation of high yielding, above sea level and temperatures ranges at 10 – 30 degrees resilient coffee varieties, while increasing quality in the cup. In Celsius. Annual rainfall ranges between 750 mm – 950 mm addition, WCR is conducting the first global research to drive and the soils are well drained volcanic loam. We produce some best agricultural practices, minimize inputs and environmental of the best quality coffee grades in the region. The average impacts, and maximize farmer incomes. World Coffee Research annual production is at 400 tons of Green beans but with the has already delivered impressive results: In just five years, we current introduction of an irrigation system, the farm is set for have established an unprecedented international network a production of 600 tons of high quality coffee beans. of research trials to test variety performance, agricultural approaches for climate resilience, and to track and control ECONOMICAL BENEFITS AND CORPORATE SOCIAL coffee disease/pest movement. In addition, together with our RESPONSIBILITY PROGRAMMES partners, we have 66 new coffee varieties in development at The farm employs an average 400 people and indirectly two collaborative global breeding hubs—including our latest provide livelihood to an approximately 2,000 people. As one hub in Africa, a partnership with the Rwandan Agricultural of the social corporate responsibility gesture, the farm has Board. The hubs serve as centralized locations for countries over the yearsbeen sponsoring eight of the best performing in each region to access breeding populations, expertise, and students from disadvantaged families in our neighborhood materials that can be utilized to create new coffee varieties for through their High school education over and above much the benefit of local producers in each country or region. other charitable work. With the African breeding hub now launched in partnership CERTIFICATIONS AND SUSTAINABILITY MEASURES with RAB, WCR is excited to present this resource to the Nyeri Hill Farm is accredited to the Rain forest Alliance, UTZ continent’s coffee-producing countries. “Helping coffee Kapeh, CAFÉ Practices certifications and 4Cs verification farmers navigate climate change takes global collaboration,” which guarantee that the social, environmental and economic says Tim Schilling, WCR’s founder and CEO. “WCR is proud of its criteria for coffee production code of conduct have been met. role in connecting countries and researchers around the world Both cultural and biological control of disease are practiced with each other and the latest advanced science. It’s thrilling and we’ve had no chemical control against Coffee Berry to see what we can do when we work together.” Disease and Leaf Rust at the farm in over ten years. With For more information about World Coffee Research and its programs, improved resources from sales of our coffee proceeds, Nyeri please visit worldcoffeeresearch.org Hill Farm has committed to fulfill and meet most of the Email: [email protected], Twitter: @WCoffeeResearch Sustainable Development Goals as set by the United Nation. Facebook: facebook.com/worldcoffeeresearch

For any further information. Contact the General Manager Mr. Joseph Njau: Email: - [email protected]

36 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 ORLD W L I E M E

F I T

O D C

BOLLORE LOGISTICS COFFEE WORD LIMITED

Bolloré Logistics is a brand of Bolloré • Sea Freight Planning and Execution Coffee world limited started in 2008. Transport & Logistics, bringing together • Port / Shipping Agency Operations It’s a coffee processing and exporting 4 activities to form a global network of company which deals in two types of • Warehousing, Conditioning, Collateral synergy and expertise: coffee i.e. management • Bolloré Logistics: Global Leader in • Uganda Natural Robusta coffee Transport and Logistics • Transport Management with owned or subcontracted Trucks • Washed Bugishu Arabica coffee • Bolloré Ports: Leader in Port Terminal Management • From transformation plant to Our head office is suited in Kawempe Warehouse • Bolloré Railways: Rail Concessions Bombo road, Kampala, Uganda. We Operator of Reference in Africa • From warehousing to our partners’ have two plants where by one deals factories in Robusta coffee and another one is • Bolloré Energy: Major Player in Oil suited in Mbale, Eastern Uganda which Distribution and Logistics Our Strengths in Coffee Logistics deals in Arabica coffee, five (5KM) away Management from Mbale town at Namunsi Soroti Our clients are both major groups for Road. whom we provide complex supply • Dedicated warehousing space for commodities; insulated and ventilated chain management solutions and Arabica coffee is grown on an altitude as per international standards small to medium sized companies between 1800 – 2100 metres above who entrust us with their international • A specialized and experienced team sea level and it is normally grown shipments. to handle your coffee from receipt to by co-operative farmers especially shipping. in Mbale and Kapchorwa districts in To support our customers in the Uganda. conquest of international markets, • Specialized handling (hand picking, sample sorting, rebagging, palletising) Bolloré Logistics has created global and Our mission is to raise awareness and sustainable solutions that are innovative • Specialized equipment (colour funds for women in coffee. We also do in design and flexible in execution. separator, bulk blowing machines) this through sensitization and provi- sion of funds through Crop Advance. Our operational excellence is primarily • Existing relationships with key buyers, shipping lines worldwide This enables the elimination of middle based on our teams, expertise, men and encourages fair trade. proactivity and our commitment to continuous improvement. They are Contact Us Contact details. supported by an integrated information Bolloré Transport & Logistics Coffee World Ltd. system which affords complete visibility and control throughout the entire Airport North Road, Embakasi Plot No. 665, Kawempe, Bombo Road supply chain. P.O Box 46586-00100 P.O.BOX 4785 Nairobi, KENYA Kampala, Uganda We take into consideration the specific T +(254) 20 642 1000 Tel: +256 782 891 045 requirements of each client and we E: [email protected] design a solution that combines both our business and industry expertise. W: www.bollore-logistics.com

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African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 37 JAVA HOUSE KAHAWA LINK COMPANY

Java House was inspired by the desire for a good cup of coffee KAHAWA LINK COMPANY also known as KALICO is a family in Nairobi, Kenya in 1999. It was then the founders began owned company established in 2012 with seven washing roasting export quality coffee in-house at the 1st Java House stations located in Northern east of BURUNDI specifically in branch at Adam’s Arcade, Nairobi, Kenya. From these humble Kirundo and Muyinga province. beginnings, Java House, colloquially referred to as ‘Java’, is not only one of the leading coffee-led restaurant chains but also We employ 44 permanent employees, 250 seasonal partners exports the best authentic high grade quality Arabica coffee and approximately 25 000 producers who grow primarily the to the rest of the world. bourbon variety.

Our high grade African Arabica coffee is carefully hand- Through our process of wet fermenting the coffee for 12-16 selected and lovingly roasted by our in house coffee experts hours, washing, soaking and pre-drying then finally drying to bring to every cup a promise of a rich, aromatic brew. Our the coffee on raised beds, we have achieved a rich aroma of Authentic African Selection includes: caramel taste, with a hint of berry, black licorice flavor rounded up with a nice acidity and a syrupy body. 1. Kenya AA 2. Espresso Angèle CIZA, the CEO, a fervent supporter of sustainability and women empowerment, believes that good coffee is achieved 3. Decaf Arabica not only by using best practices from nurseries to picking but 4. Uganda Kigezi Special by investing in additional training, environmental protection, 5. Ethiopian Yirgacheffe and social infrastructures for their producers. 6. Rwanda Lake Kivu To ensure traceability, KALICO, invested in an app called From a single coffee shop, Java House now has over 55 stores GESTAL that is used on all washing stations to register each across 3 East African countries, 14 cities and employs over farmer by his personal information, production information 2000 staff. (coffee trees, soil type, etc) and harvest. This system helps identify each parchment lots to the origin and farmers identity, At Java House, we thrive upon unmatched values of African therefore creating a link between buyers and producers. Hospitality, Integrity, fresh good food and great coffee in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. KALICO takes pride in forging friendships that go beyond partnerships with their buyers and growers. Our mission is to take the Java experience to the world through passionately sharing our authentic excellent African KAHAWA LINK COMPANY S A coffee heritage while continuously fulfilling and exceeding Avenue de la Révolution, Appartement n°2 customer expectations. Tel: (257) 22 279960 B.P 7100 Bujumbura Burundi – Email: [email protected]

38 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 SPECIAL VISITS TO THE AFCA SECRETARIAT- UNJUKI NJUZI

Special Visit (and present) from Rwanda Chapter Member, UNGUKA MUHINZI Ltd represented by Jean Lac and Jeremy Iyakaremye

Special Visit to AFCA Secretariat Offices (Africa Coffee House) by Samuel Njuguna - Head: Origination Eastern Africa for Nedbank. Talking Coffee Finance, trading in East Africa, the Rwanda Conference #AFCA2019 and membership.

African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 39 AFRICA COFFEE ACADEMY’S MENTORSHIP AND TRAINING PROGRAMME: MEET MS. MARBLE NDAGIRE OUR 2018 YOUTH FLAGSHIP BEARER. Uganda the pearl of Africa. Yes, it is. It is the birth place of the second ganda is the largest African most traded commodity. I call it the black gold; Robusta Coffee. coffee exporter and the In a country with a wealth of natural resources; it has a lot more Usecond largest producer. Uganda’s agricultural exports average to offer to attract business growth and investment, the Uganda at 80% of which coffee exports government is committed to developing the private sector e.g. contributes 22% of the total exports it supports business through the private sector foundation to accounting the lion’s shares as a access opportunities under its matching grant facility. Uganda is foreign currency earner. The Uganda among the few countries that benefits from the quota and duty Coffee Value Chain system employs free product access into the US (AGOA), EU (under the EBA and over 1.7 million households and it GSP scheme), India (Under the DFT scheme) and China (Under is estimated that the coffee farmer earns over 70% of the export value the DFQF scheme), with regulations that permit 100% foreign of the coffee exported. Currently, ownership of companies and it produces more than 15,000 the Uganda government through university graduates annually and these are a fraction of the 75% the Ministry of Agriculture Animal youths that comprise the total of the population. Uganda really is Industries and Fisheries (MAAIF) the pearl of Africa. and Uganda Coffee Development Authority (UCDA) is implement the presidential directive to increase the total coffee exports from the current 4.5 million (60Kg) bags expected to reach over 5 million bags in the coffee year 2018/19 to 20 million bags by the year 2025.

Like many coffee producing countries coffee production has been affected by climate change, exchange rate and the declining coffee prices; despite like mentioned earlier that the coffee farmer earns over 70% of the export value. The Uganda government through UCDA are working the public sector to grow Uganda Domestic Coffee consumption from the current 3% to rival coffee producing countries like Ethiopia and Brazil. It is then that the farmer will be able to produce without working about

40 African Fine Coffees Review Magazine | January-March 2019 | Volume 8 | Issue 2 the external coffee prices and the dollar rate fluctuations. Since 1998 when the first coffee shop opened in Uganda; Uganda has seen a rise in the number of coffee shops and roasteries opening up. Currently in Kampala alone there over 50 active coffee shops and over 15 roasteries. These have helped to drive the domestic coffee consumption from 1% in 2005 to 3% in 2017.

Key to the private sector development and engagement to meet the presidential directive and increase domestic coffee chain and clientele management. affects coffee quality and the coffee consumption is Africa Coffee She was getting into the coffee cup. She identified coffee farmers to Academy (ACA). ACA offers Four business. work with closely in Kapchworwa for course services; training, consultancy, Arabica Coffee supplies and Ssemuto Coffee is a tough business. Firstly, Like and Kapeeka for Robusta Coffee equipment trade and third party in many coffee producing countries quality services. All this is done while supplies. She is has moved to paying coffee is a business dominated premium prices for well managed offering the client a total coffee by men; however there women experience. For ACA to play its role, coffee that the farmers supply. She that have taken on this lucrative worked with ACA and later was able it has partner with the Ministry of business. Secondly, from production education through the Directorate to perfect a blend and roast profile to exports to roasting there few for the brand. of Industrial Training to offer youths that are engaged in business, hands on skills development and due to lack of start-up capital and Marketing is the critical pillar entrepreneurship training for young partners interested in working with that is lost in translation for most baristas, quality controllers and youth. Africa Coffee Academy with businesses. ACA puts this at roasters. The government is not able the support of its directors like Mr. the forefront in its mentorship to support all the youths and those Robert Waggwa Nsibirwa, Mr. Ishak programme. ACA further worked that have the capacity have paid Kasule Lukenge, Mr. Robert Dick with this team of two energetic their tuition fees to acquire these Wadada started the ACA mentorship youths to promote the gold pearl skills. At the Academy we believe we programme. This programme coffee brand. In 2018 Ms. Marble can change the coffee drink culture identifies enthusiastic youths and sold coffees at the dispas coffee one barista at a time. works with them to nature their tasting event, the AFCA Conference Meet Ms. Marble Ndagire; the business ideas into actualization in Kampala, at the Coffee Technology current flagship bearer of youths and hand hold them to levels where Expo in Mbarara, the Uganda coffee that ACA has trained. In 2017; Marble they are fully fledged business that day also doubling as the international trained as a barista at the academy. are capable of self-sustaining. This coffee day in Uganda and the Coffee During her training, offering a total programme is very competitive; it Event in Hainan and many more. coffee experience, Ms. Ndadigire gets one candidate once every 2 - 3 She has been to promote the pearl was introduced to basics of coffee years, and successful. gold coffee brand both locally and internationally. quality management and roasting. Ms. Marble Ndagire in 2018 She was tasked to manage and run approached ACA for this At the academy we believe that Kaawa on Wheels (KoW) as youth engagement and she was the perfect offering our clients a total coffee coffee brewing initiative of ACA. profile fit for mentorship. In the intial experience, we shall transform the Marble noted that during the coffee stages Marble was working alone to Uganda coffee industry. We shall events they attended and served promote the roast and ground coffee move the domestic consumption coffee there were clients who were under KoW. She was later joined by form 3% to 50%; we shall move the interested in carrying home some of another youth Mr. Brian Luutu. In the coffee production volumes from the coffee that they used to serve. first quota of the year 2018 marble 4.5million bags to 20million bags; we Marble got the idea of starting registered a business name; the gold shall the 75% youths into hands on her own brand of coffee and this pearl coffee limited to promote her skills jobs as employer or employees. prompted her to sign up the coffee coffee brand. This did not come easy, We shall move the industry with one quality management class. This class Marble and Brian signed up for coffee trainee at a time. We are doing our instilled coffee business acumen, agronomy classes to learn more part, what about you? quality management and supply about coffee production and how it

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Inspected by ECOCERT SA F – 32600. Manufacturer: Product suitable for use in Organic Agriculture conforming to regulations n° 834/2007 and 889/2008, NOP Regulation Africanand JAS Fine CoffeesRegulation. Review Magazine | January-March 2019 www.nordox.no| Volume 8 | Issue 2 43 Follow us on

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