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Technological University Dublin ARROW@TU Dublin

Cookery Books Publications

1992

Meals for All Seasons: the Best of Contemporary Irish Cooking

Georgina Campbell

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Recommended Citation Campbell, Georgina, "Meals for All Seasons: the Best of Contemporary Irish Cooking" (1992). Cookery Books. 115. https://arrow.tudublin.ie/irckbooks/115

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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 4.0 License ...... - ..... MEALS for all . SEASONS , - "'

THE BEST OF CONTEMPORARY IRISH COOKING

fj~CfdampM1 MEALS for all SEASONS

WOLFHOUND PRESS First published 1992 by WOLFHOUND PRESS 68 Moun~oy Square, Dublin 1 © 1992 Text copyright Georgina Campbell. Photographs © Irish plc / Wolfhound Press. Design, typography and other material © Wolfhound Press British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Campbell, Georgina Meals for All Seasons: The Best of Contemporary Irish Cooking I. Title 641.5 ISBN 0-86327-322-X

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilised in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, filming, Acknowledgements recording, video recording, We are pleased to acknowledge Credits photography or by any Irish Sugar, plc whose support has Book De ign: Jan de Fouw information storage and retrieval made it possible to produce and Photography: Rai Uhlemann system, or shall not, by way of publish this comprehensive book Food Stylist: Kevin Thomton trade or otherwise, be lent, resold on contemporary Irish cookery Index: Julitta Clancy or otherwise circulated in any with its full range of recipes and Thanks to Brian Morland and fonn of binding or cover other to illustrate it in colour with Rose Sevastopulo for providing than that in which it is published specially commissioned cakes and decorations without prior permission in photograrhs. Author Georgina writing from the publisher. The Campbel , whose idea this book Editorial: Wolfhound Press moral rights of the author have was, joins with the publisher in Printed in the been asserted. this acknowledgement. by Colour Books, Dublin Preface

This is a book I very much wanted to write for some time, because I believe so strongly in the enjoyment offood. Ever since the basics ofcookery were taught to me as a child in our farmhouse kitchen, using produce straight from the field or garden, I have had a passion for food. Today's growing emphasis on its negative aspects is the antithesis ofeverything which makes working in this field such a joy. I don't believe in food taboos and feel strongly that the ever-increasing stress on why we shouldn't eat certain things is not only built on very shaky foundations at a time when life expectancy in the western world is at an all-time high but, in the long run, bound to be counter-productive. Never having believed in the philosophy of 'good' and 'bad' foods, rather that all quality ingredients are potentially good in a balanced diet, I suggest that it is time to go back to first principles: eat as wide-ranging a diet as possible and make the most offood in season, both for the pleasure it brings and as a natural guarantee ofvariety. Conflicting theories on health and diet abound, but the one thing missing is common sense, which involves a healthy interest in and enjoyment ofwell-balanced, interesting food. When good meals and good company coincide, especially, this is truly living and the stuff of which life-long memories are made. The French have it just about right, with food a key to the wider enjoyment oflife. Inspiration for this book came from a number ofsources, but the catalyst was a conversation with representatives of Irish Sugar plc, whose own products have so often (and, in my view, unfairly) been in the firing line. Sugar is an essential ingredient in a surprisingly wide variety ofdishes, not only as a major ingredient in a range of cakes, desserts and other sweet dishes but also as a preservative, in small but vital quantities in yeast cookery and as a seasoning in a huge variety of savoury dishes, including many oriental ones - but its main role is that it makes other nutritious foods more enjoyable to eat. Where would a good cook be without it? I am very pleased that Irish Sugar not only shared my views, but supported them through the generous sponsorship which has helped to make this book possible. My thanks go to them, and also to Wolfhound Press who agreed with such encouraging enthusiasm to publish the book. Many favourite recipes collected over the years are here - both my own and others generously passed on by cooks from all over the country as mementos ofmemorable meals - so I hope that you will enjoy not only the book but, perhaps even more, the dishes, as much as I have enjoyed them myself

Read, cook and enjoy!

Contents

Where the recipe text includes '[Microwave]', consider using your microwave -at least part of the recipe is suitable.

Preface 3 Prawns Provenr,:ale 23 Date Cake 40 Acknowledgements 2 Lambs' Liver with Dubonnet & Newport Fruit Cake 40 Conversion Tables 11 Orange; acc. Glazed Onions 23 41 Miscellany of Useful Information, Kidneys in Sauce, with Swiss Rolls; Var. Chocolate Swiss Glossary and Hints 232 Mixed Leaf & Fresh Herb Rolls etc 41 Index 241 Salad 24 Date Slices; Var. :Fig Slices 41 Chicken & Walnut Stir-Fry 24 Cherry Buns; Var.: Sultana, , Filo Chicken Parcels with Currant Buns, Date Buns. 42 SPRING 13 Tarragon; acc. Baked Cherry Drop 42 Tomatoes 27 Popovers 42 Introduction 13 Chicken Fricasse with Sherry 27 Basic Brown Soda Bread 45 Spring Starters 14 Roast Pigeon 28 Traditional White Soda Bread 45 Carrot Soup with Tarragon 14 Golden Crunch 45 S rin Desserts 28 Leek & Tomato Soup 14 Chocolate Chip Cookies (1) and Baked Chocolate 28 Green Lentil & 15 (2) 46 FoolproofChocolate Mousse 28 Homemade Lamb with ~ Chocolate Saucepan Cake 46 Chocolate Roulade; Var. incl. Tomato Coulis 15 Filled with Fresh Raspberries 28 S rin Yeast Bakin 48 Mushrooms au Gratin 15 Chocolate Marquise, with Creme Basic White Bread 49 Peperonata 16 Angiaise 29 Olive Bread (rolls/loaves) 49 Soused Seatrout Canapes 16 Gateau Diane 31 Onion and Walnut Bread 50 Avocado Salad with Citrus Fruits 16 Tangy Lemon Tart 32 Basic Wholemeal Bread 50 Green Salad with Orange Dressing17 Lemon Whip 32 Quick Wholemeal Yeast Bread 51 Crunchy Spring Coleslaw 17 Rhubarb with Orange 33 Var. on basic doughs: Sugar-Browned Potatoes Var.: Rhubarb and Orange 33 * Cheese Bread 51 Glazed Jeru alem Artichokes 17 Rhubarb Fool 33 * Garlic Bread 51 Sweet & Sour Onions 18 Gooseberry Layer Cake 34 * Herb Bread 51 Glazed Carrots 18 Clafoutis 11 Groseille Verte 34 * Cheese Baps 52 S rin Main Courses 19 Gooseberry Fool with Pizza Base & Toppings 52 Baked 'Limerick' Ham with Juniper Elderflowers. 35 Hot Cross Buns 57 Berrie and Glazed Jeruslem 57 S rin Bakin 36 Crumpets Artichokes erved with Orange Quick Barm Brack 57 Simnel Cake 36 & Redcurrant Sauce Var. Ham Gooseberry Bread. 58 Easter Lemon Cake 36 & Pea Soup. 19 Easter Ne t Cake (Chocolate) 37 Home-Made Wedding Glazed Easter Chicken with Fresh Easter Biscuits 37 59 Herb & Pme Kernel 20 Cake Jap Cakes 38 Guard of Honour with Button Nutty 38 Onions & pring Vegetables 21 Quick hocolate Cake with Pork Chops WIth Orange Sauce 22 Orange Fudge Icing Stuffed Mackerel with Rhubarb 39 Hazelnut 39 Sauce 22 Cherry ake 40 SUMMER 60 Middle Eastern Picnic Bread 75 with Grand Marnier 90 Wholemeal Picnic 76 Pears with Bilberrries 90 Summer Soups, Starters, Savoury Pizza Pie 76 (poached Plums), Crusty Plums. 91 Salads, Side Dishes 61 Barbecues: 76 Summer Ices 92 Tossed Salad Leaves with Fresh Universal Marinade / Barbecue Vanilla Ice Cream 92 Crabmeat 61 Sauce 77 Oatmeal Ice Cream with Bailey's 92 Gravad Lax 61 Chicken Drumsticks with Brown Praline Ice Cream 92 Marinated with Mint 62 Sugar & Mustard 77 No-Stir Strawberry Ice Cream 92 Three-Fish Terrine 62 Grilled Whiting Oriental Style 77 Basic Very Easy No-Stir Ice Crearrll2 Fresh Tomato Sauce with Basil 62 Steak Rolls with Mustard Sauce 78 Gooseberry Elderflower Ice Ginger and Coriander Salmon in Chinese Barbecued Steak 78 Cream 93 Filo Flowers 62 Mixed LeafSalad with Hazelnut No-Stir Blackcurrant Ice Cream 93 Avocado, Redcurrant Vinaigrette 63 Dressing 78 Orange Ice Cream 93 Pear and Blue Cheese Salad with Mternoon 79 BombeF~orire 93 Tarragon Dressing 63 79 Summer Ripple Bombe 94 Southern Tomato Salad 64 Lemon Sponge 79 Fruit Parfait 94 Cold Soups: 64 Bread 79 Chocolate Parfait 94 * Iced Tomato 64 Caramel Bars 79 Raspberry Yogurt Sorbet 94 * Chilled Tomato with Basil 64 Raspberry Sponge; Var. Strawberry Accompaniments: Biscuits 94 * Gazpacho 64 Gateau 80 Brandysnaps, brandysnap baskets Tomato Granita 67 Hunter's Tea Scones 80 and petits fours 95 Courgettes, Tomato and Garlic 67 Strawberry Shortcake Var. Brandy Cornets 95 Ratatouille; Var. Quick Slimmers' 67 Strawberry Sables 81 Strawberry Cones 95 French Peas and Carrots 68 Summer Drinks 82 Tuiles 95 Minted Pea Soup 68 Lemon Cordial Var. Lime Cordial Langues de Chat; Var. Tuiles Mangetout and Cucumber Salad Citron Presse; Var. Orange Presse Tulips 96 with Mint Vinaigrette 68 Iced Coffee, Iced Tea and Sangria Stir-Fry ofMangetout with Ginger Summer Preserves 96 White Cup and Pine Kernels 69 Strawberry and RedcurrantJam 96 Summer Wine Cup (with Mixed Leaf salad with Sure-Set Strawberry Jam; Var. strawberries) 82 Nasturtiums 69 Raspberry; Loganberry 96 Glazed baby Turnips 70 Summer Desserts 85 Raspberry Jam 96 Summer Salad 70 Barbara's Strawberry Tart with Uncooked Raspberry Jam; Var. Summer Main Courses 71 Raspberry Glaze 85 Uncooked StrawberryJam 97 Short-Cut Strawberry Tart with Garden Jam 97 Warm Salad ofSalmon with Redcurrant Glaze 86 Gooseberry and Orange Jam 97 Toasted Pine Kernels 71 Sponge Flan with Strawberries and Gooseberry Jelly; Var. Goo eberry Stir-Fried Mackerel 71 Orange 86 and Elderflower 98 Stir-Fried Chicken with Cashews 72 Gratin of trawberries and Herb Jellies 98 Sweet & Sour Chicken, 72 Rhubarb 87 Redcurrant Jelly; Var. Savoury Bake with Tomato Fre h Apricot 87 Blackcurrant/Raspberry and Coulis 73 Fresh Apricot and Almond Flan 88 Redcurrant Jelly 99 Sweet and Savoury 73 Layered Biscuits with Rhubarb and GingerJam 99 Baked Pork Chops with Raspberry Fresh Cherries and a herry Blackcurrant Jam 99 and Cider Sauce 73 Brandy Sauce 88 Conlit ofApricot with Mustard Picnics 74 Terrine ofSummer Fruits 88 eeds 100 Cream Cheese & Tomato Quiche 74 89 Candied Angelica 100 Blue Cheese & Walnut Quiche 75 ummer Fruits in Filo Tartlets 90 Cry talli ed Rose Petals 100 Cheese & Pie 75 Hot Marinated Berries Gratinated Crystallised Mint Leaves 101 AUTUMN 102 Stuffed Pork Tenderloin with Chocolate and Pear Cake 124 Apricot Sauce 114 Creme Caramel 125 Autumn Starters and Side Carbonnade ofBeefwith a Garlic Creme Brulee 125 Dishes 1u3 Crust 115 Irish Pear Cake 126 Tomato Soup 103 Cassoulet 115 Cider Brack 126 Golden Pumpkin Soup 103 Parsnip Casserole au Gratin 116 Apricot Tea Bread 126 with Apple Sauce 103 Chicken with Cider and 116 Autumn Preserves 127 Twice-Baked Cheese Souffle 104 Chicken in and Ginger Red Tomato 127 Souffle Surprise; (Quick Herby Yogurt Sauce 117 Green Tomato Chutney 127 Tomato Sauce, 104 Baked Lamb Chops with a Golden Marrow and Tomato Chutney 128 Basic Cheese Souffle) Var. Blue Potato Topping 117 Apple and Sultana Chutney; Var. Cheese Souffle with Walnuts, Pot-Roast ofPigeons and Carrots, Tomato and Apple Chutney 128 Spinach Souffie, Crab Souffie 105 Gin, Juniper; Var. Pot-Roast Autumn Fruit Chutney 128 Salad ofGreen Lentils 105 Pheasant, Normandy Style 118 Apple and Chutney 129 Pumpkin au Gratin 106 Roast Smoked Pheasant with Apricot Chutney Var: 129 Brown Tom 106 Cumberland Sauce 118 Pickled Pears 129 Braised Chestnuts; Var. Chestnut Autumn Desserts and Jellies 129 Puree 107 Bakin 119 Apple Jelly 130 Braised Endive 107 Apple Snow Carrot and Apple alad with Nuts 119 QuinceJelly 130 Bramble and Apple Mousse MintJelly 130 and 107 119 Apple and Hazelnut Crumble 119 BrambleJelly; Sloe Gin; Rowan Red Bean and Omon Salad 108 Apple and Oatmeal Layer Cake 131 Grilled Sweet Peppers; Var. 120 Jelly French Apple Flan Candied Citrus Peel 132 Preserved in Olive Oil 108 120 Apple Filo Tart with Calvados 120 Sure-set Recipes 132 Autumn Main 113 Apple 123 Thrifty Out-of-Season Pork Kebabs, Barbecue Sauce 113 Fresh Apple Muesli 123 Marmalade 132 Pork 113 Apple Brulee 123 Quick Apple Guice) Jelly Var. Pork Chop with Cranberry Cider Spiced Pumpkin Pie 124 Quick MintJelly 133 Sauce 114 Baked Pears, Creme Fraiche 124 Cranberry and CiderJelly 133 Above: Mother's Day: in Bed, page 13

Previous Pictures Title Page: Cassoulet, page 115 Page 2: Soups, including Tomato and Golden Pumpkin, page 103 Page 3: Cnjstallised Rose Petals, page 100 Page 4: Twice-baked Cheese Souffle, page 104 Page 7: Whole Glazed Ham, page 145 CHRISTMAS 134 Cider Sauce 155 Alcholic Prunes 176 Beefwith Fresh Pineapple 155 Bitter Chocolate Brazils, Stuffed Christmas Diary 134--135 Pork with Apricots, Coriander 156 Dates, Walnut and Almond Croque Monsieur Lamb 156 Pairs 176 Turkey Dinner Granny Campbell's Fudge 179 Christmas Desserts 157 Basic Vanilla Fudge;: Var. Coffee, Christmas Introduction 136 Traditional 157 chocolate, Almond/Raisin. 179 Wholefood Plum Pudding 158 Christmas Starters 137 Turkish Delight; Var. Peppermint Chestnut Yule Log 159 Onions ala Greque 137 (Creme de Menthe Jellies) 179 Charlotte Malakoff 159 Pears with Cashel Blue Cream and Peppermint Creams; Var. Lemon, Meringues 160 Walnuts 137 Orange Creams. 180 Meringue Sitric 161 Grilled Grapefruit 137 Chocolate Truffles 180 Raspberry Vacherin 161 Crab and Mushroom Ramekins and Raisin Truffles; Var. Hazelnut Meringue Cake; Var. with Olives 138 Hazelnut Clusters 181 Apricot Cream/Gateau Melon and Orange Cocktail 138 Chocolate Citrus Candies 181 Ganache 162 Glazed Turnips 138 181 Profiteroles 163 Jerusalem Artichokes 141 Orange Macaroons 182 names Grape Pudding 164 Red Cabbage with Apple 141 Florentines 182 Old-Fashioned Sherry Trifle 164 Hot Devilled Beetroot 141 Glace Grapes 183 Ratafia Trifle 165 Hot Beetroot with Orange 142 Oranges with Grand Marnier 165 Christmas Drinks and Party Spiced Parsnips 142 Old-Fashioned Round Christmas Nibbles 184 Caramel Onions with 142 Pudding 166 Mulled Wine 184 Chicory and Orange Salad with Mulled Red Wine wih Orange 184 Walnuts; Var. Watercress an Christmas Baking 167 Farmer's Bishop 184 Grapefruit Salad with Toasted Traditional Christmas Cake; Var. Mulled Cider 184 Pine Kernels 143 Miniature Christmas Cakes 167 Cider Cup 184 Celery, Apple Salad, Walnuts. 143 Decorating Christmas Cakes 168 Mulled Ale 185 Almond Paste 168 Christmas Main Hot Spiced Pineapple Cup 185 Quick All-in-One Christmas Cake Courses 144 Spiced Almonds 185 with Crunchy Topping 168 Spiced 144 Spare Ribs with Rum and White Christmas Cake with Light Quick Spiced Beef 144 G~Fr 1~ White Icing 169 Whole Glazed Ham; Var. Hints 145 Glazed Cocktail Sausages 185 Rum/Raisin Cake, Lemon Icing 170 Raisin Cider sauce 145 hicken atays 186 Chocolate Yule Log with Vanilla Gammon with piced Peaches 146 Sole Ceviche 186 and Chocolate Icings 171 Roast Goose with Orange and Savoury 186 Bfiche de Noel with Chestnut Walnut Stuffing and Cranberry Walnut and Cashel Blue Bites 186 Brandy Cream Var. Chocolate Port auce 146 Garlic Pate Balls 186 Rum Log 172 Roast Duckling with Sweet and Mincemeat 172 Christmas Ices 187 Sour Grapefruit; 147 Mince Pies: One- tage 173 Christmas Ice Pudding with Pheasants in Red Wine 148 Mincemeat Star Pies 173 Apricot Sauce 187 Braised with Juniper and Traditional Mince Pies with assata Slice 187 153 Almond Pastry 173 Rum Ice Cream 188 Crown Roa t ofLamb with Mincemeat Meringue Pie with Brown Bread Ice Cream 188 Cranberry Stuffing and Port and Orange Pastry 174 Rathmullan Brown Bread 188 Redcurrant auce 154 Black Cherry Parfait 189 in Curry Sauce 154 Christmas Gi ts 175 Rich Lemon Ice Cream 189 Leg of Lamb with hestnut Farmhouse Pate 175 Amarelto Bombe 189 tuffing and plced Cranberry hlcken Liver Pate 175 Blackcurrant Bombe 189 WINTER 191 Carrageen Pudding 208 Mayonnaise; Var. Tarragon; Garlic; Caramel Bavarois 208 Curry; Lime Mayonnaises, Winter Starters 192 Apricot and Almond Coriander Tartare Sauce 224 Soupe it I'Oignon Gratinee 192 Crumble and Vars. 209 Blender Mayonnaise: Var. Mustard Game Soup 192 Apricot and Almond Ice Cream Mayonnaise 224 Orange and Grapefruit Starter 192 with Hazelnut Hearts 209 Oil and Dressings 225 193 Pear and Grape Compote 210 Basic Dressing 225 Marinated Kipper Salad 193 Eggless Lemon Cheesecake and Olive Oil Dressing 225 Warm Salad ofChicken Livers 193 Vars. 211 Walnut Dressing; Var. Hazelnut Grilled Lambs' Kidneys with Dressing 225 Winter Baking 212 Caramelised Onions 194 Linda's Salad Dressing 225 Orange juice Cake 212 Boston Baked Beans 194 Tucker's Dressing 225 Irish Cider Cake 212 Winter Salad 194 Herby Tomato Sauce 226 212 Spring Rolls 199 Quick Tomato Sauce; Var. Devil's Food Cake, Seven-Minute Diced Chicken in Hot Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce 226 Frosting 213 Bean Sauce 199 Sauce 226 St Clement's Cake 213 226 Winter Main Winter Preserves 214 Apple Sauce 227 Courses 200 Favourite Mincer Marmalade 214 Cranberry Sauce; Var. Cranberry with Two Salads 200 Seville Orange Marmalade 217 Sauce with Orange and Pork with Ginger and Garlic Mixed Fruit Marmalade 217 Cider 227 Sauce 200 Pressure-Cooked Marmalade 218 Cumberland Sauce 227 Loin of Pork with Dried Fruit in Orange and Ginger Marmalade 218 Bread Sauce 227 Cider 201 Lemon and Lime Marmalade 218 Rum Butter; Var. Cumberland jugged Hare 201 Super Economical Marmalade 219 Rum Butter; Brandy Butter. 227 Pork with Coriander and Lime 201 Thick Cut Whiskey Marmalade 219 Butter Bean Cake 201 Quick Orange jelly 220 Pork Plait var. BeefPlait with Lemon Curd 220 BASIC RECIPES 228 Tomato Sauce, Lamb Plait 202 Dried Apricot and Almond jam 220 Potato Gratin 228 Marinated Steaks with Shallot Game Chips 228 Sauce 203 Perfect Pilaf 228 Stir-Fried Beefwith Mangetout 203 SAUCES 221 Stocks Intro/Hints 229 Beefand Orange Stir-Fry 203 Creme Fraiche 221 Household Stock 229 Chicken with Pineapple and Creme Patissihe (Confectioner's Chicken/Game Stock 229 Almonds 204 ) 221 Fish Stock 230 Stir-Fried Chicken with Walnuts Creme Anglaise (Egg Custard) 222 Clarified Butter 230 and Celery 204 Dark Chocolate Sauce 222 Basic : 230 Stir-Fried Prawns with Baby Sweet Raspberry Sauce; Strawberry * Shortcrust 230 Sweetcorn 204 Sauce 222 * Sweet Flan 231 Winter Desserts 205 Blackcurrant Sauce 222 * Rough Puff 231 with Walnuts 205 Beurre Blanc 223 Frangipane and Apple Tart 205 Beurre Fondu 223 206 White Sauce Var. Cheese, MISCELLANY 232 Fruit Terrine with Yogurt Mushroom, Mustard, Onion, Useful Information, Glossary, Hints Cream 206 Parsley, Watercress, Rum or etc Pancakes 207 Brandy Sauces 223 Crepes Suzettes 207 Hollandaise Sauce; Var. Mustard Crepes Normandes 208 Sauce, Mousscline Sauce 224 INDEX 241 Spiced Fruit Compote 208 Blender Hollandaise 224