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Dorothy Todd's Modernist Experiment in British Vogue, 1922 -1926, by Amanda This work is protected by copyright and other intellectual property rights and duplication or sale of all or part is not permitted, except that material may be duplicated by you for research, private study, criticism/review or educational purposes. Electronic or print copies are for your own personal, non- commercial use and shall not be passed to any other individual. No quotation may be published without proper acknowledgement. For any other use, or to quote extensively from the work, permission must be obtained from the copyright holder/s. “A plea for a renaissance”: Dorothy Todd’s Modernist experiment in British Vogue, 1922 -1926 Figure 1 Amanda Juliet Carrod A thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in English Literature June 2015 Keele University Abstract This is not a fashion paper: Modernism, Dorothy Todd and British Vogue "Style is thinking."1 In 1922, six years after its initial inception in England, Vogue magazine began to be edited by Dorothy Todd. Her spell in charge of the already renowned magazine, which had begun its life in America in 1892, lasted until only 1926. These years represent somewhat of an anomaly in the flawless history of the world's most famous fashion magazine, and study of the editions from this era reveal a Vogue that few would expect. Dorothy Todd, the most enigmatic and undocumented figure in the history of the magazine and, arguably within the sphere of popular publications in general, used Vogue as the vehicle through which to promote the innovative forms in art and literature that were emerging at the beginning of the twentieth century. Through her inclusion of artists and writers whom we would now consider to be the influential makers of modernism, Todd turned Vogue into an advanced literary and social review and thus a magazine of modernism. Preconceptions which regard Vogue as a mere mass circulated fashion glossy need necessarily be dismissed before reading this work, as the Vogue of 1922-1926 presented the fashions of the body alongside the “fashions of the mind"2 This research will demonstrate both the extent of Vogue's transformation into a modernist magazine and to seek to locate the lost editor of Dorothy Todd. Such a meticulous project has never yet to be undertaken. Dorothy Todd's Vogue can be no longer dismissed as mere frivolity in the frenzied and tumultuous intellectual climate of the inter-war period. 1 Marguerite Young In Inviting The Muses: Stories, Essays, Reviews (Normal, III,:Dalkey Archives, 1994) p.114 2 Lachmansingh, Sandhya Kimberley (2010), ‘Fashions of the mind’: Modernism and British vogue under the editorship of Dorothy Todd, M.Phil. thesis, University of Birmingham. i Contents List of figures........................................................................................................................page vi List of Appendices................................................................................................................page x Acknowledgements..............................................................................................................page xi Preface ................................................................................................................................page xii Introduction:........................................................................................................................page 1 "Civilisation in the Mind": Modernism and British Vogue, 1922-1926 i) "We Find Ourselves Fumbling Rather Awkwardly":..........................................................page 2 Defining Modernism ii) "Acquainted Thoroughly with Vogue Policies and Format":............................................page 8 Thesis Content iii) "Weapon of Massive Consumption":..............................................................................page 12 Modernism and Mass Culture Chapter One:.......................................................................................................................page 17 "Turning Over New Leaves": A History of Vogue and her 'Glossy' Antecedents 1.1) Chapter Introduction....................................................................................................page 18 1.2) "Buy Nothing Until You Buy Vogue":............................................................................page 22 The World's Most Famous Fashion Magazine 1.3) "Fashion and the Fashion Makers":..............................................................................page 52 The Influential Antecedents to Vogue 1.4) "In September Something Changed":...........................................................................page 72 The Launch of British Vogue ii 1.5) Chapter Conclusion.......................................................................................................page 82 Chapter Two:........................................................................................................................page 84 "Modernism Began in the Magazines": The Inspirations for Todd's Vogue 2.1) Chapter Introduction....................................................................................................page 85 2.2) "The Idea of a Literary Review" by T. S. Eliot ...............................................................page 94 2.3) "Make it New!": Considering American Modernism....................................................page 101 2.4) "As Free a Hand as Any Creative Artist Can Have":......................................................page 105 The Dial and Vogue as Creative Repositories 2.5) The Gap in the Market Left by The Athenaeum...........................................................page 129 2.6) Chapter Conclusion......................................................................................................page 137 Chapter Three:.....................................................................................................................page 139 "Costume is the Outward Expression of a State of Mind": The Significance of fashion in Vogue, 1922-1926 3.1) "The Best of Fashion Papers":.......................................................................................page 140 Chapter Introduction 3.2) "What the Germans Call Zeitgeist I Prefer to Call Fashion":.........................................page 145 Fashion and Modernism 3.3) "An Exquisitely Civilised Lady of Fashion":....................................................................page 162 Mary Hutchinson in Vogue 3.4) "Frock Consciousness":.................................................................................................page 174 Virginia Woolf and Vogue 3.5) What to Wear in the "Room of One's Own":................................................................page 180 Woolf's Vogue Portraits iii 3.6) Chapter Conclusion.......................................................................................................page 189 Chapter Four:.........................................................................................................................page 191 "Modernism's Other": Vogue's Lost Editor 4.1) "Who Need Never Be Mentioned" :...............................................................................page 192 Chapter Introduction 4.2) "Keeping Up the Fiction" :..............................................................................................page 196 Who Was Dorothy Todd? 4.3) "A Shimmer of Dash and Chic" :.....................................................................................page 214 Dorothy Todd's Appearance 4.4) "Sovereigns of the Modern Age.....................................................................................page 229 Reigning Over Certain Aesthetic Circles in London": Dorothy Todd and Madge Garland 4.5) "The Proportions of a Political Rupture" :......................................................................page 239 Dorothy Todd's Dismissal 4.6) "The Bucket in the Well of Loneliness" :.........................................................................page 248 Dody's Demise 4.7) "Good Editors are Hard to Find and She Was a Great Editor" :......................................page 255 Conclusion Chapter Five:..........................................................................................................................page 257 A Room of Their Own : The Literary Aesthetic of the Female Modernists in Vogue 5.1) "Vogue and the Future" :................................................................................................page 258 Chapter Introduction 5.2) Lifting the Veil :...............................................................................................................page 262 Dorothy Richardson in Vogue 5.3) "Determined Never, Never to Desert Mrs. Brown :.......................................................page 295 iv Virginia Woolf and Vogue 5.4) The Lady "That Dare Not Speak Her Name" :.................................................................page 304 Mary Hutchinson and Vogue 5.5) "A Plea for a Renaissance" :............................................................................................page 327 Chapter Conclusion Conclusion:............................................................................................................................page 329 The "Renaissance" began in 1922: Thesis Conclusion Bibliography:…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….page 337 v List of Figures Figure 1: Vogue, Early October 1925 Figure 2: Selection of Vogue covers which appeared during the Todd era Figure
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