Southern Jordan Guide

FUNDACJA EUKLIDESA INSTYTUT ARCHEOLOGII UJ MINISTERSTWO NAUKI I SZKOLNICTWA WYŻSZEGO

Southern Jordan Guide

JORDAN CONTENTS

Jordan - according to the official name - the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan - South Jordan 1 is a country located in the Middle East, in South-West Asia. Warsaw and Languages and dialects 3 Amman, or the capital of Jordan, are about 3,500 km apart. It is a country Jordanian cuisine with an area of about 89 thousand. km². 4 Nature and landscape The Jordanian Kingdom has its borders with Israel (238 km), Palestinian 5 Monuments Autonomy (97 km), Syria (375 km), Iraq (181 km) and Saudi Arabia (744 km). 25 The total length of the jordanian borders is 1635 km. Jordan also has a small Polish research 40 access to the sea, in the Gulf of Aqaba (Red Sea), and the length of the coast Tourism is only 26 km. 55 About the guide 65 Jordan is a constitutional monarchy, and the current ruler is the king Abdullah II, son of King Hussein, descendant of the Hashemite dynasty. The Hashemites are an aristocratic Arabian tribe from the Quraysh tribe, descended from the grandfather of Prophet Muhammad, Hashim ibn Abd al-Manaf.

Southern Jordan is the area located between Wadi Hasa and the Gulf of Aqaba, which can be also described as the historical land called Edom. It is an area divided along the meridional axis to: rocky-mountainous areas located on its western side and desert-highlands lying on its eastern side. In the west the boundary is also marked by the rift of the Jordan River, which is the northernmost part of the Abyssino Rig, which belongs to the Great African Ramps. Areas in the east of the region pass into the vast deserts of the Arabian Peninsula - the largest peninsula in the world.

Roman road built by Emperor Traian – Via Southern Nova Traiana. Southern Jordan contains also the most famous monuments associated throughout Jordan the world with Jordan – the red rocks and tombs of Petra – and the extraordinary landscapes of Jordan – according to the Wadi Rum, which played the role of Mars in official name – the Hashemite Kingdom of many Hollywood movies and productions. Jordan – is a country located in the Middle East, in South-West Asia. Warsaw and Amman, or the capital of Jordan, are about 3,500 km apart. It is a country with an area of about 89 thousand. km². The Jordanian Kingdom has its borders with Israel (238 km), Palestinian Autonomy (97 km), Syria (375 km), Iraq (181 km) and Saudi Arabia (744 km). The total length of the jordanian borders is 1635 km. Jordan also has a small access to the sea, in the Gulf of Aqaba (Red Sea), and the length of the coast is only 26 km.

Jordan is a constitutional monarchy, and the current ruler is the king Abdullah II, son of King Hussein, descendant of the Hashemite dynasty. The Hashemites are an aristocratic Arabian tribe from the Quraysh tribe, descended from the grandfather of Prophet Muhammad, Hashim ibn Abd al-Manaf.

Southern Jordan is the area located between Wadi Hasa and the Gulf of Aqaba, which can be also described as the historical land called Edom. It is an area divided along the meridional axis to: rocky-mountainous areas located on its western side and desert-highlands lying on its eastern side. In the west the boundary is also marked by the rift of the Jordan River, which is the northernmost part of the Abyssino Rig, which belongs to the Great African Ramps. Areas in the east of the region pass into the vast deserts of the Arabian Peninsula – the largest peninsula in the world.

Through the area of southern Jordan one of the most famous trade and pilgrimage routes of antiquity and the Middle Ages are running, i.e. famous King’s Road. There are also clearly visible in the region relics of the eastern border of the Roman Empire – Limes Arabicus and the concentrated in the At-Tafila and Ash-Shawbak districts.

The language and dialects used in this area are also an interesting topic. It is worth noting that the area of southern Jordan is still inhabited largely by the Bedouin population and there are dialects that belong to the Bedouin group of dialects. However, this does not change the fact that Bedouins in the south of the country speak a completely different way than Bedouins in the

middle of Jordan. Bedouin accents vary It is worth knowing, however, that the southern depending on the tribe and you can see Jordan has much more to offer for the visitors! significant differences in them. Inhabitants of We will find here dozens of places marked by central and southern Jordan are able to human presence from the earliest to modern understand the Amman, because it is the most times. Archaeological sites from the Paleolithic, popular dialect in Jordan, it is also the closest to Neolithic, Bronze and Iron ages, as well as the classical Arabic language. It would be countless relics of the Nabateans and Romans harder to come the other way – a resident of the are the landmarks of this exceptional area. It is capital would probably not understand the also impossible not to notice the extraordinary Bedouins if he did not have contact with them heritage of the Middle Ages with the before. What may be a surprise for some, magnificent Shawbak Castle and the crusader Bedouin inhabitants of the desert, despite the strongholds in Al-Habis and Al-Wueira, as well fact that they still have a traditional, nomadic as many Byzantine cities and buildings scattered lifestyle, are able to speak fluent in classical all over Southern Jordan. Arabic. All this thanks to television and the Internet. While watching various programs, they have contact with the classical language all the time, which does not change the fact that it is a EXPLORE THE SOUTHERN JORDANIAN bit unnatural for them, and sometimes even MONUMENTS funny because none of them speak to each other in everyday life. Generally, throughout Jordan, EXPLORE THE NATURE OF SOUTHERN people easily change fluently to literary JORDAN language, which mainly results from the fact that the vast majority of society is educated and that the Jordan dialect is very similar to the language of the Koran, so it is easy to learn it. Rich and fascinating cultural landscape of southern Jordan attracted Polish archaeologists, Inhabitants of the south of the country, based on naturalists and popularizers of science and a few minutes’ talk, are able to tell where the became the place of their work for years. For interlocutor comes from. They are very sensitive several years, scientists have been conducting to the accent, because it determines the excavation and environmental research here, perception of their origin among other people. expanding our knowledge about the history and However, this does not prevent them from nature of the region. Their work is currently communicating; dialects in this part of Jordan are so close to each other that the inhabitants understand each other without any major problems.

It is also worth remembering that all the countries of the Middle East region share a common history, culture, and above all religion, which is extremely important to them. Anyway, it is the Koran – the holy book of Muslims – which is written in the classic language and is thus a model of Arabic style and grammar. Literary language is common to the whole community not only Arab but Muslim in general. Muslims around the world are praying in Arabic because they used to believe that the Koran cannot be translated into any other language.

Traditional costumes of the population living in the region are richly decorated, and especially the women’s clothing is characterized by jewelry dripping from gold, silver and precious stones. Wealth and traditions of men’s clothing can be admired, for example, by looking at the traditional costumes of policemen who wear them, for example, in the Archaeological Park The Jordan cuisine is very in Petra. strongly rooted in traditions that have developed in the

present Jordan for millennia. We will find in it clear

influences of Mediterranean cuisine – Lebanese and Syrian, Palestinian or Egyptian, as well as many elements of the native Bedouin tradition. The most important dishes common to the whole region are of course known to everyone: hummus, ful, mutabal, falafel, shawarmah and tabouleh. We’ll all be interested in the right moment. Let’s focus on the national dish of Jordan – mansaf. Everyone who travels alone to Arab countries or have friends in the Middle East is well aware of the Arabic saying – “The guest is in the power of the host.” Hospitality and giving honor to guests is revealed here not only by the wealth of dishes appearing on the table (under normal conditions seldom eaten by the hosts in such abundance), but also by their sizes, often many times exceeding the capabilities of people gathered at the table. The guest cannot leave hungry, cannot refuse an addition or just be content to try dishes. It should be eaten with knowledge, ideas, ideas and gusto, absorbing the largest portions of respect values, skills, traditions, for the hosts. However, this is not an unpleasant messages, but also related duty but a pure pleasure to immerse yourself in artifacts, objects and places. It the fabulous world of flavors and aromas. creates our group, national, ethnic or religious identity. In Mansaf is an unusual dish and is not served southern Jordan, it is a collection of many every day, it is a symbol and ritual associated important elements derived from the tradition with the reception of the most important guests and history of the region. Two of them have or important events such as the wedding or been particularly emphasized on international childbirth, or the welcome of a family member UNESCO list – customs defined collectively as returning from a long journey. Its roots should As-Samer and the Cultural Space of the be sought in the Bedouin tradition, in which Bedouin Tribes in Petra and Wadi Rum. meat and milk always had a special meaning. The invitation to the mansaf is therefore an expression of the highest respect on the part of the inviting person. On a large tray lined with bread and sprinkled with rice, served with the appropriate spices, served with baked yoghurt or sour cream lamb or less-orthodox chicken pieces. The whole is topped with roasted pine nuts or almonds and sometimes with chickpeas, it tastes great.

Interesting are also the habits associated with the consumption of mansaf, which determine many aspects of this, delightful to our taste, activities. The size of the bowl with the dish itself indicates sympathy for the guest – the more respect and respect for the hosts, the more respect and respect they have. In addition, the pieces of meat located on the rice bed should not be bigger than the cat’s head, and their separation is handled personally and only the host. The tastiest morsels are given by the host to the favorite or distinguished guests.

Consuming mansaf in a group of friendly people whose presence makes us happy and talking with them fills us with optimism and inspires, is a rare experience. As rare as rare in today’s world is true friendship and unlimited cultural willingness to look kindly at others, sometimes very different from us. And this is probably the most important “taste” of this amazing dish – obtained from the most difficult, growing only in our hearts, spices …

Intangible cultural heritage is passed down from generation to generation, practices, Entering the territory of South Jordan we can Nature & landscape use the old road – the King’s Highway (no 35) or choose the modern and much faster Desert Highway (no 15). Both of them go through the Highlands of the Eastern Rim of the Wadi Araba – Jordan Graben. This Mountain Ridge is also known as Northern Highlands. In its Southern part which will be our target area it is called the Hills of Moab and Edom Mountains. To the East of this geographical spine extends the Central Desert Area of East Jordan and to the West the landscape cut Wadi Araba. Its morphology changing from flat sand dunes, rolling hills and shallow valleys, through sharp and inaccessible mountain ridges (up to 1100- 1400 m a.s.l.) to deep, steep canyons with cliffs as high as tens of meters. Then comes the very hot and dry, salty and as flat as a flounder world’s deepest depression of the Dead Sea (down to -150-300 m b.s.l.).

The aforementioned mountain ridges are formed by the monocline and in geology we call them fault-block mountains. These tectonic blocks dip is gently towards the East but their fragments are slided and tilted forming very perplexed escarpment. The Moab and the Edom Mountains formed the Eastern border of the graben – the regional depression in geomorphology known as the Dead Sea Rift or Wadi Araba. It is connected and forms the northern continuation of the Red Sea Rift and INTRODUCTION the continental system of East African Rift/Great Rift Valley. The Dead See Rift itself Approaching the Queen Alia Airport we fly is the boundary visible on the land surface over the green valley of Jordan River, forest and between the two tectonic plates – Arabian and grasslands of Jerash. But after landing as we African one. It started to form about 35 Million travel from the North to the South the landscape years ago. The geological transformations in gradually changes from the green to this area form the horst-graben geomorphology increasingly yellow-beige. Certainly the South and cause the numerous earthquakes as well as Jordan is today drier than North of the country magmatic activity – intrusions. The latter form but this difference doesn’t necessarily mean the the big magmatic rock monoliths called sills, change in the attractiveness of the area. The dykes, batholiths etc. nature differs significantly also from the West (Wadi Araba and Northern Highlands) to the The Moab and Edom Mountains are built of the East (Central Desert). All it means is that we thick complex of rock layers having over 1500 will not be bored during our trip – we only meters. All these rocks could be grouped into should stop and look. Let us find the most two general types: the lower one formed mainly promising places to contemplate the nature and of sandstones and the upper one of carbonates culture of the Southern Jordan. (limestones etc.). In the described area the sandstones were formed from Paleozoic up to Early Jurassic (approx. 500 to 200 Million years ago) and the carbonates rocks from Jurassic to Early Tertiary (approx. 200 to 23 Million years ago). Should anyone find this description too monotonous we should add that contemporary morphology is influenced by several faults (perpendicular to the rift zone of the Wadi FIRST STOP Araba) and contemporary canyons and valleys. In the gentle slopes, steep hillsides and rocky Approaching the at-Tafilah city we should focus walls the extremely interesting patchwork of our attention. In 2016/2017 the big detour was rock layers is visible. The thin and thick rocks built over the city. Thanks to this investment we of various colors from white, through yellow, will have the insight into the local geological beige, rose to red, violet, brown and even green history through the fresh and complete cross- and black interweave formed by undulating, section. faulting, and volcanic intrusions. Perfect opportunities of observing the geology are Coming to at-Tafilah from the North (road no possible due to the scarcity of the flora cover. 35) we pass the campus of Tafilah Technical University. At the roundabout near it (named Although the majority of the Jordan territory is the Arab Revolt Square) one should go down dominated by arid and semi-arid climate its (toward the city, or to the West) and after about biozones are not as monotonous. The South 200 m gently turn left on the crossroad. At first Jordan provides for the unique opportunity to on the left side and after one-two kilometers on see various biotopes over quite short distances. both sides of this road, we will see the rock The area of our trip is the transitional zone outcrops – cross-sections. On the 5-6 km stretch between Mediterranean and Irano-Turanian we can stop in any convenient place to see the biogeographical regions. It is defined as the details of layers. Semi-Arid to Arid Mediterranean bioclimatic zone. This region, called steppe (or semi-steppe) The dominant rock types around us are various seems to be the most convenient for agriculture kinds of carbonates: limestones, marls, chalk. and contemporarily is populated in 90% by the Especially interesting are the numerous layers Jordanian population. The area at first glance of chert (perfectly visible at the beginning of the deprived of life is covered with several genera detour). They form over twenty beds 5 to 25 cm of plants and inhabited by various genera of thick (FIG 1, 2). The dominant color is black animals. They are concentrated along the stream and dark grey however some pale variants can beds but also appear on the hill slopes and even be also find. The chert is the siliceous (SiO2) the mountain ridges. From decades thanks to rock usually formed in the marine reservoirs and biological and ecological studies as well as from is biogenic or chemical in origin. The the historical texts we are constantly surprised mechanical proprieties of chert are excellent and with the presence of endemic or relic species of this stimulated its common use in the prehistoric plants and animals. There is still a lot to tools. Whole complex with chert is about 30-40 discover. m thick. In other parts of profile we can recognize the layers of sandstones and sandy To facilitate the journey through the South mudstones (FIG 3). Jordan territory and make it more interesting, we will here propose several stops which in our Described sequence of sediments is of Tertiary opinion are the most interesting and allow to age (65-3 Million years) and shows the changes understand the culture and nature of this country of the climate and landscape. The area was giving the complex picture of the area. covered with the shallow, warm sea which periodically shallowed more allowing the sandstone rocks to form in the beach or terrestrial environment. The whole complex was the area of dynamic tectonics. The faults together with the magmatic activity of the Dead Sea Rift Zone resulted in building up of the thick basalt sill and the batholite. They can be visible as dark/black rock layers within lighter carbonate rocks. The boulders and blocks of weathered basalt are dispersed all over the area rolling down the slopes, valleys and canyons. FIG. 1

Next we continue through the at-Tafilah city with the road toward Shawbak (no 35). Just after passing the City Hospital we will come onto the important junction where we should turn right towards the Dead Sea. The road will go slightly up and after 4-5 km we will reach the edge of the horst after which the road will go steeply down. On the left side of the road the prominent hill should draw our attention. We can stop on the quite convenient country FIG. 2 parking place and go up to the summit using the old (Roman?) gravel road (FIG 4).

Sitting on the hill-top we can start our contemplation with realizing the general character of the landscape. The first characteristics which draws attention is the significant denivelation of the Wadi Mashra (FIG 5). The difference of over 1200 m strongly affects the communication possibilities along Wadi stretch as well as hydrology, FIG. 3 geomorphology, pedology, and agriculture. The Wadi Mashra extends from the Dead Sea Plain (-200-300 m b.s.l.) to the East into western edge of the Mountains of Moab up to 1050 m a.s.l. The Wadi forms a deep canyon in which geological section of the Late Cretaceous down to the Late-Middle Cambrian age is clearly exposed. Additional short trip to the area of the Wadi mouth in the West will provide an excellent possibility to see the geological and ecological differences along the Wadi stretch FIG. 3a (FIG 6, 7, 8).

FIG. 4 FIG. 8

FIG. 5 FIG. 9

FIG. 6 FIG. 10

FIG. 7 FIG. 11 are dolomitic limestones, limestones and dolomites which form the uppermost culminations around the Wadi Mashra.

All around you there are siliceous rocks in form of cherts (FIG 13). But far more interesting and nice are these silicates which were formed by hydrothermal conditions. These are here in form of the blocks and boulders up to 3-4 m thick, FIG. 12 originally located high in the layers sequence (FIG 14). They have parallel, stripped texture underlined by rainbow colors: from white, grey, through beige, brown, red, to purple and black. You can find a really beautiful samples (FIG 15).

The geomorphology of the area is shaped by local geology, temporary rains and human activity (FIG 16). The ondulation with sharp slopes and flattening depend on the basal rocks FIG. 13 (sharper in case of the limestones and flatter in case of the shales). Several small and medium The Eastern (upper) end of the Wadi Mashra is streams cut very tortuous and deep beds which located in the rocks of Cretaceous age. They seems to be very young (Holocene-Late extend to the West, being underlain by the Holocene in age). Where the soft rocks complex Cretaceous and Cambrian complexes of very ends, about 400-500 from the asphalt road, there distinctive cross-bedded sandstones in the area is a high cliff (FIG 17). Walking along its edge where the Wadi slopes sharply to its bottom you can admire some spectacular waterfalls with cliff walls. From that line the sandstone formed by seasonal rains (FIG 18). The water complexes analogous to the Petra ones dominate going down in rainy season gives unbelievable along the Wadi mainstream (see also the effects. In one place the water formed elongated SECOND and the SEVENTH STOP). The rock-shelter similar to Arizona-Colorado ones. thickness of the complexes is about 1000 m. As at that territory by Pueblo Indians also here They are cut with numerous faults which the rock-shelters were transformed into generally go in the NNW-SSE direction. settlement facilities for people and herds (FIG 19). The lower complex is petrographically quite homogenous but the upper one consists of various rock types, such as limestones, dolomites, marls, sandstones, siltstones, mudstones, gypsum, nodular and bedded cherts, hornstones and laminae of limonite. The whole complex ends with very interesting mudstone and fibrous gypsum layers. It was the sources of archaeological ochre, i.e. red and yellow pigments (FIG 9, 10). The gypsum forms several beautiful crystals (FIG 11, 12). The most common here are white fibrous polymorph and very characteristic translucent, honey-colored FIG. 15 fishtail gypsum crystals. Over these layers there

FIG. 16 FIG. 20

FIG. 17 FIG. 21

FIG. 18 FIG. 22

FIG. 19 FIG. 23

FIG. 24 FIG. 28

In the Southern part of the area there are very nice examples of the paleo-karst. The fragments of old caves, corridors, halls uncovered by water and rock avalanches and landslides. You can see here the speleothems and fragments of cave voids (FIG 20, 21).

The natural geomorphology was and still is modified by the human agricultural activity. The FIG. 25 Eastern and South-Eastern parts are the area of contemporary intensive mining activity. Several quarries made the original geomorphology invisible. They are located in the limestones and dolomitic limestones, above gypsum layers. In other parts of the area the walls, field rock- cleaning and old roads are well visible. The shale outcrops-water sources, fields and settlements can also be observed. Despite the apparent dryness the area was and is suitable for agricultural and herding activity. FIG. 26 What can be particularly interesting for the visitors are numerous fossils present in the Cretaceous rocks between contemporary asphalt road and the edge of the cliff. There are here: Bivalvia (e.g., Caprinula sp., Requienia sp.) Cephalopoda – Ammonoidea (Turrilites sp., Pseudotissotia sp. and Thomasites sp.), Echinoids (Micraster sp.), Mollusk (Terebratula sp.). Some of that fossils form whole layers which results in amazing view (FIG 22, 23). FIG. 27 There are also plenty of contemporary land snails shells. It shows how the local climate varies through the year.

All aforementioned complexes and layers are the Jordanian part of the Arabian-Nubian plate. According to the definition the plate sediments lie horizontally however because of local tectonic changes they can be inclined in various various kinds of colchicum. They are directions. At the edge of the Wadi Araba (Dead accompanied by less numerous yellow ones – a Sea) the described layers are in general slightly sternbergia genus. There are also high stalks of inclined to the West. Several local faults modify sea squill (Urginea maritima). In winter they further this situation causing the perplex view of will flourish with small white flowers. The the layers with varying inclinations. The strike plethora of other flowers will appear later in and dip of geological beds is also affected by winter, as for example Syrian eryngo the landslides and non-marine olistoliths. (Erynginum creticum) or globe thistle (Echinops sp.). The Wadi itself and its dendritic network have the character of V-shaped valleys or canyons. Wandering across this area be aware of pastoral The lowest part of the Wadi Mashra bottom has dogs – they are really a nuisance. It is also not not more than 100 m width and is very difficult the best idea to go into the mines. The local to use for agriculture. However the water people guarding their olive groves may invite current serves for the herds and as the source for you for the dinner – for example vegetable lecsó modern aqueducts. The middle part of the Wadi and special bread – it is good to accept it. is inaccessible, with very deeply cut, narrow bottom and steep sides or rock walls. In this part the water current disappears from the surface.

In the Eastern and South-Eastern part the Wadi is strongly transformed by the contemporary mining activities (quarries) which exploit the limestones and dolomitic limestones. Beside the quarries the area was, probably from ancient SECOND STOP times, evened and cleared for agricultural purposes. The terrace fields were and are built After visiting the Wadi Mashra we should go for cultivation, pasture and olive grove. There is back to the main road (no 35) and turn right on a water source located on the faults’ crossing the crossroad heading toward Shawbak (i.e. to zone. It is the Eastern part of the olive grove and the South). Our next goal will be Sela City the water there is collected by the artificial located westward of the road, approx. 5 km drains, pipes and basins (FIG 24). from the aforementioned crossroads. There are road-signs leading to it but you should be very In the whole area trampling and animal paths careful as they are not well located – it is better not only follow the local morphology but also use GPS in this case. are the factor of its formation. Till today the sheep-goat herds pass through the area several Going to Sela City we enter the kingdom of red times a day. This small influence causes visible rocks (see also the SIXTH and SEVENTH changes in geomorphology. The slopes are STOP). This ancient settlement is built on the usually formed in step-like flanks which can be isolated hill in the deep and steep wadi. Already found especially in the Northern part of the area. the walk from the parking place is astonishing. The human communication uses foot tracks, The analysis of how the city was built and not-paved roads, and contemporarily asphalt supplied (for example with water) could be the road (in the Eastern part of the area). The trails subject of a quite extensive publication. of old roads are visible across the whole area. However let us concentrate only on the nature in this place. From September there is a beautiful opportunity to see the blooming of this arid area (FIG 25, We are surrounded by rock walls, cliffs, pillars, 26, 27, 28). Walking the slopes you can admire monkstones, cracks, crevices, gullies and everywhere the small violet flowers which are boulders. The same sandstone formation, we already saw on our FIRST STOP, give us here forms appear. These are smaller and bigger, the perfect opportunity to observe from very negative and positive formations. We can close various types of weathering. The observe here rock windows, shafts, pillars, contemporary activity of water is very intensive columns, hollows, pits, stone curtains, straws, despite the fact that the rains are only seasonal. mushrooms and the honeycomb weathering Instead they are extremely dynamic and (alveoli). As in longer periods tafoni can be destructive – we call them torrential rains. In developed also in the form of caverns, small this situation it is not surprising that the erosion corridors or even caves it can be also described of the rocks is very fast. These rains form as pseudokarst (FIG 29, 30, 31, 32). several waterfalls going down through the canyon walls, rock cracks, tectonic faults and Here in Sela and all around the city there are morphology depressions. plenty of tafoni and pseudokarst examples. The sandstones are soft thus causing the inevitable The beautiful rusty-red rocks which surround us destruction of the archaeological and historical seem to be solid, hard and convenient for monuments (as famous Sela inscription – bas- building or sport activities. But approaching relief). them we discover that after centuries or thousands of years of the exposition to the sun, The caverns and other tafoni hollows which the water and the wind they transformed destroy human constructions at the same time significantly. Sandstones are built mostly of form the perfect caches for numerous insects, quartz grains – what is not a surprise as this reptiles and some birds. Sitting in Sela and rock is lithified sand. In the rock formation quietly observing the surroundings we can meet described here these grains are “glued” with several local animal inhabitants. calcium carbonates and ferrum minerals. The latter are responsible for its reddish-brownish colors.

Water percolating the rocks enters into chemical reaction with several minerals. All begin with the dissolution of chlorides and carbonates which in form of a solution are transported toward the surface of the rock. There the water evaporates thanks to the changes in pressure, temperature and because of wind action. The thin layer of crust called sometimes duricrust crystallizes on the sandstones’ surface. It is like FIG. 30 the precipitation of speleothem – specific kinds of stalactites, columns, sheets of flowstones, curtains and other dripstones are formed on the rock walls.

The dissolution phenomena has also other consequences. The rocks deprived of the “glue” (as the geology calls it “matrix”) – become soft and friable. The crystallization of salts on the rock surface starts the processes of salt weathering. The newly growing crystals brake FIG. 31 the rock structure weakening it. When the duricrust breaks, the fast action of granular disintegration begins. In consequence the tafoni

FIG. 32 FIG. 36

The first to observe will probably be the gecko (FIG 33). There are several species of this lizard in the South Jordan. The most popular are spotted fan-footed (Ptyodactylus guttatus) and southern fan-footed geckos (Ptyodactylus hasselquistii). They are cautious but when behaving gently we can observe them for a long time and even take photos if approaching them with caution. The lizards will appear on the rock FIG. 33 walls, in the cracks, and stone roofs, usually preferring the shadowed places. Thanks to special structures on their toes they are walking with no effort on the vertical and hang-over surfaces.

We will meet some other lizards in our next stops (see the SEVENTH STOP) but one should mention here the fringe-toed lizard (Acanthodactylus sp.). This inconspicuous animal is very brisk. When meeting other lizard FIG. 34 it can fight, chasing and going after each other for quite a long distances. Having a little luck and patience we could witnesses the interesting lizard life-tale (FIG 34, 35, 36).

Unfortunately the places like Sela are also inhabited by oriental hornet (Vespa orientalis). These flying insects built their nests in the rock cavities or in the ground forming colonies with one queen and the army of males. It is very characteristic to hear the loud whirring of the FIG. 35 approaching hornet. However they tend not attack the big animals unless closely approached.

Having a lot of luck we can finally observe the fastest snake in the Eastern Mediterranean – the schokari sand racer (Psammophis schokari). It is non-venomous and very flighty (runs away 16 km/h). Its color resembling the rocks makes it around and feeding on the ground insects. In the quite hard to see. This snake is very good in autumn season European scops-owls (Otus climbing the trees and sometimes the rocks. It scops) pass through the South Jordan. They can feeds with lizards, rodents and birds. Sometimes be seen on the trees contemplating the it takes advantage of sun warming up the rocks. neighborhood and looking for some delicious mice. The experienced bird-watcher could see much, much more here.

The forest is surrounded with the agricultural fields. As in other terrains of Moab and Edom Mountains they are located on the specific geological layers. The mix of mudstones, claystones, finely layered marls and gypsum are THIRD STOP in this area the aquifer. In the same time these very soft rocks are easily erodible and form the planar forms in the geomorphology. The perfect Traveling with the King’s Highway from the examples of it may be found just around our Sela not far before Qaddisiya we will pass the forest. forest outstretching on the both sides of the road – let’s stop there. The only problem which will be very acute for the so called western tourist are “tons” of garbage scattered around. This is as characteristic for extra European territories as unacceptable for tourists. However one should simply get used to it.

If you manage to ignore the filth you can stay there for a picnic (do not forget to buy the big FOURTH STOP slice of the kanafeh or some other sweets you can enjoy here). The shadow and wind playing Beside the Petra city, Dana Nature Reserve and through the branches will compensate you the Dana Village are the most renown places in all dread of the ever present rubbish. Otherwise just trip sources concerning the South Jordan. walk for some time into the small forest. It is However it is usually seen as half-a-day or one- still today a very popular place for local people day stop. It is the total misunderstanding of the to go and rest. Aleppo pines (Pinus halepensis), character of this area. Phoenician juniper (Juniperus phoenicea), Mediterranean cypress (Cupressus Certainly if we will decide to run down and up sempervirens) and even jujube (Ziziphus sp.), the Dana Valley the nature will not be generous firat poplar (Populus euphatica) or Atlantic for us. Additionally during European holidays pistacia (Pistacia atlantica) will surprise you (June-early September) the climate here is dry with their presence. Some of these species are or extremely dry. Almost all plants deprived of very rare or unique in the whole Near East as water hide on the reddish-yellowish backcloth the specialists claim. of the surrounding rocks. This could be discouraging but it is also a justified reason to The forest is attractive for plethora of birds and slow down and stop for a while. It is really other animals. Perhaps it is one of the most worth to observe the Dana nature from very convenient places during our trip for bird- close. watching. Living here or passing over forest several genera of birds can be met. You need Almost all tourist guides propose to start the time and peace but it will be gratified with the visit at the Dana Nature Reserve just in Dana view of the hoopoe (Upupa epops) walking Village. We advise to take a completely different route. After visiting our the THIRD STOP just pass the proposed mirador over the Dana Valley and drive forward for some 1-2 km. When you see the cement factory buildings on your left, turn right, leave the car and head towards the private buildings (to the West) slightly upward. After approx. 200 m there is the semi-open building constructed as the view point, however, we can omit it and go right along the small cliff edge. Between the FIG. 39 aforementioned building and the mobile transmitter station there are several possibilities to go down the cliff using herders’ paths (do it carefully). Our goal will be the bottom of black rocks underneath the transmitter station.

Choosing a convenient place to rest or walking along the rock-wall we can admire the very special rock formation. It is the wall built of columnar basalt lava, i.e. the outcrop of basaltic sill intruded into Tertiary carbonates and FIG. 40 forming today the cup of local plateau (FIG 37). This peculiar rock structure is formed during the process of cooling of the lava flow. Its polygonal (hexagonal) texture gives the impression of artificial making though it is completely natural. Judging from the size of columns we can assume that the process of lava cooling was very slow. The stability of basalt pillars, so called tombstones, varies from place to place. There are fresh and stable parts as well as completely dismembered basalt columns FIG. 41 (FIG 38, 39, 40). Below the described rock-wall the slope is covered with several basalt blocks and boulders which sometimes rolled down to the Dana village or even lower. The whole basalt rock-wall is also excellent area for free climbing. There are several possibilities for 5-15 m long trade routes of

FIG. 42

FIG. 38

FIG. 43 FIG. 47

FIG. 44 FIG. 48

FIG. 45 FIG. 49

FIG. 46 FIG. 50 Sitting in the forest it is worth to admire the perfect panorama extending to the West (FIG 47, 49, 49, 50). Depending on the weather and the clarity of the air you can even see the western horst of Dead Sea Rift. Having this aerial view, just “below your feet” you see the traditional, stone buildings of Dana village. It is the old Ottoman settlement with even more ancient traditions. Today Dana is purely a FIG. 51 tourist location as the local population moved to Qaddisyya city looking for work in the nearby After visiting the columnar basalt continue cement factory. The village is located on the down with one of the numerous herders paths. rocky promontory over the valley or rather the The slope is very steep, everywhere there are canyon. The slopes over Dana are built of traits of sheep and goats (FIG 41, 42). You limestones. They are steep but it is nothing should watch your steps and be careful during comparing to the rock walls and abysses below the whole way down but it is worth to try it. The Dana. There the “sandstone kingdom” begins. It color of the rocks will change immediately after is clearly visible due to the change of the color you leave the basalt area. The whitish-yellowish from white-yellow-beige to red-rusty-brown. carbonate base rock is covered with thin layer of Your eyes will skip over the sharp edges and initial soil. It is usually reddish in color and ridges of lower an lower, farer and farer gives the possibility for trees to grow on it. sandstone mounts. There, in the haze of Wadi Surprisingly from the basalt thill almost down to Araba, there will be the Dana Valley mouth. the level of Dana the escarpment is covered Flat terrain will lead to worlds deepest Dead Sea with forest. The dominant species growing here depression (-300-400 m b.s.l.). From that are the Aleppo pines (Pinus halepensis), distance some bleary agricultural fields and the Phoenician juniper (Juniperus phoenicea) with rectangles of salars will be seen, as well as minor admixture of other trees and shrubs such winking lights of farmers’ villages. On the as for example the thorny burnet horizon line the terrain will rise again in the (Sarcopoterium spinosum) or the soldier thistle hills of the Negev. (Picnomon acarna) among others (FIG 43, 44, 45, 46). Depending on your choice you can start the trip on the afternoon planning to reach the Dana This forest is also the perfect place for a village after the sunset (make the hotel picnic. Sitting there on the carpet of long, reservation in advance). That way you can delicate pine-needles you can feast yours mind admire the breathtaking sunset over the Wadi and senses on the wind blowing through trees Araba (FIG 51, 52, 53, 54). branches, the smell of pine-cones, the chirp of cicadas, the shadow and sun, the silence and Going down the steep slope head toward the loneliness. Here you can feel the Mediterranean Dana buildings. On the way you will cross climate of the past epochs. As you can read in consecutive carbonates layers. They have the ancient and medieval texts as well as the various characteristics: they differ in color, archaeological proofs show us, the thickness, hardness, mineral composition etc. Transjordanian territory had benign climate All this is visible in geomorphology as cliffs, allowing not only the growth of the olive trees walls, slope and rock shelves (FIG 55). The and pasture lands but also the vineyards and slope from the top to the bottom is cut with cornfields. After our THIRD STOP this is several gullies. There are also numerous another place in which you can “touch” the boulders, small and higher rock walls almost climatic past of the area. inviting you to climb (FIG 56).

FIG. 53 FIG. 57

FIG. 54 FIG. 58

FIG. 55 FIG. 59

FIG. 56 FIG. 60

FIG. 61 FIG. 65

FIG. 62 FIG. 66

Just over the asphalt road which cuts through the slope under the hanging rock (FIG 57), there is a spring. Today it is a very popular place for local people to spend free time (especially during the weekends). The water is gathered in the cement basins and goes down with the pipes and concrete canals. It is the vital water source for Dana. The here water also comes from the same aquifer that was already described earlier FIG. 63 (see the FIRST and THIRD STOP). The basins where designed as a kind of pergola, nevertheless the effect is not very admirable. But over them we can see very interesting example of the tilted packet of the limestones. The layers of the rock have almost vertical orientation which stays in contrast with the surroundings built of normally lying monocline. The interlaced layers of limestones, marls, chalk etc. bear quite lovely concretions of cherts with the rock crystal (FIG 58). In other places there FIG. 64 are examples of big nodules of zonal chert (comparable with famous Polish “pasiasty” i.e. banded or striped chert) (FIG 59). You can take the path along the base of stone wall to find these formations in situ.

Especially from August to June you can observe in Dana the morning fog coming with the wind blowing upward in the Dana Canyon (FIG 60). activity so it will be hard to meet them (FIG 66, Contemplating sunrise over the valley brings 67). Another insect genera seeking food here are about specific atmosphere and will be an boxer and praying mantises (FIG 68). These unforgettable experience. At first the blur is interesting animals are not very fast and having everywhere covering even close trees. All the a little bit of patience we can find and observe time thrust with the wind the haze will run up, them on the way down the canyon. The insects dissolve, and the landscape will appear fragment are accompanied and sometimes eaten by by fragment as in the classic Romantic fairy various lizards. During this stop we can tale. The whole phenomenon lasts for about two concentrate our research on the chameleons. hours. During winter it could be longer but They have almost hypnotizing aspect. Being at remember that the temperatures are under 10 the same time not very fast the chameleons are Celsius degree and you can also encounter rain very lightsome object of observation. Sitting or even snow. next to one of them you can analyze the eye movements, the delicate changes in color – All around your way to the village (you can go camouflage, the extravagant limbs, the dancing by asphalt road or take small path following the movements, and if you will be lucky the long water canal which goes through the glue-tongue catching the insect. pomegranate trees, fig trees and the olive groves; FIG 61, 62, 63) there are black blocks of Over our heads and in the rock walls there are basalt-andesite. They originate from the basalt plenty of birds. With the good binoculars you intrusion you saw earlier uphill. After passing will perhaps see the Alpine swift (Apus melba) the village the no-asphalt road will take you to and the rock martin (Ptyonoprogne fuligula). the abyss. Please take a look on rock walls on But also some predatory birds are usually both sides. At the entrance to the Dana canyon circling over you. During the evenings the bats you will clearly see the transition from (especially Mediterranean horseshoe bat – calcareous formation to sandstone one. All Rhinolophus euryale) will “appear”. The rich phenomena described already in STOPS ONE bird world also attracts snakes among others and TWO can be observed here as well (FIG predators. 64, 65). Concentrate on the effects of water or fluvial erosion. Because of aforementioned aridity of the area the rocks here are very vulnerable to water cuts. The seasonality and dynamic of water flows cause the erosion to occur very fast and its results can be very clearly seen. All over the place there are small and bigger rills, gullies, arroyos – wadies, channels converging finally to the Dana canyon. Simply speaking you can see here all the developmental stages of water cut negative FIG. 67 landforms. They are accompanied with rock steps – waterfalls, hollows, niches and other evortion erosional forms. The surface is covered with the silt, sand, gravel and blocks of limestones, sandstones, conglomerates and other types of local rocks.

At the first glance the Wadi Dana is very hostile but it has very rich fauna and flora. It is not very hard to see the millipedes (Archispirostreptus Syriacus). The living animals have the nocturnal FIG. 68

FIG. 69 FIG. 73

FIG. 70 FIG. 74

FIG. 71 FIG. 75

FIG. 72 FIG. 76 promoted as an opportunity to spend a night in natural and traditional conditions. The hotel is rather expensive. The offer is, however, interesting. It includes cooking experience, local population meeting, relaxing, hiking, biking, canoeing. Here you also change the biota – around you there will be several genera of hyacinth, gladiolus or acacia and much more (FIG 69, 70, 71). FIG. 77 The last but the most important target here are the famous Wadi Feynan ore mines. This canyon is known from the bronze age as the prominent source of copper, gold and silver in Transjordan. The ore minerals were formed due to percolation of post-volcanic hydrothermal waters. Today its resources have no economic value but it is worth to see the ancient mining and metallurgical area. There are a lot of ore minerals, slags and other natural and anthropic FIG. 78 debris. However remember that it is the area of special archaeological interest and collecting “souvenirs” is not recommended.

FIG. 79 FIFTH STOP

Our next stop will surprise most of tourists and will rise the question “why to go there “. It is however the ideal example to show the sense of the term “slow travel”. It seems to be as good for us and our sensitivity and experience as “slow food” is. Leaving Dana Nature Reserve and passing Qaddisiya city we should continue

with the road no 35 and after about 20 km direct FIG. 80 left down toward the road 814. Than on the crossroads turn left (to the East) and after 4-5 For the most tenacious at the end of the Wadi km right to the small, asphalt road to Faysalliah. Dana there is one more attraction – the Wadi On the third kilometer the road will go to the Feynan. Both wadies converge in the mouth of valley bottom – it is our stop. Wadi Dana and open to the Wadi Araba flatland. There is recent attraction down there – The contemporary landscape of Faysalliah area the Wadi Feynan Ecolodge. This locations is is dominated by rolling hills, gentle slopes cut with shallow seasonal rivers and stream valleys (FIG 72). Comparing to the previous STOP one rendzina. They allow several plants to grow. could describe it as flat, or planar area. The Contrary to appearance this area is quite rich main valleys here are parallel to one another and with flora, covered for example with white all head East. The surface sediments are wormwood (Artemisia herba-alba), Anabasis dominated by poorly to good rounded gravels syriaca, thorny saltwort (Noaea mucronata), (pebbles, cobbles and boulders; up to 500-800 yellow flowers of mullein (Verbascum sp.), mm in diameter) and the desert pavement. The goldy-locks (Varthemia iphionoides), yarrow rocks are usually cherts with very small number (Achillea sp.) and ferula, various garlic species, of limestones. The source of the rivers is located Moab cousinia (Cousinia moabitica), sandwort about 6-7 km to the West but today they are (Minuartia picta) and these are not all (FIG 77, supplied only with surface water from seasonal 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83). They are concentrated rains. along the stream beds but also appear on the slopes of the valleys. On the top of the hills the cultivation areas are located used during the rainy season (mid- We should mention here that from the 90. October to late-April). The whole-year onward the precipitation rises significantly. The agriculture is based on the deep well irrigation average annual rainfall is probably twice as big and provides vegetable and fruit. This type of as in the former decades. These changes are not cultivation is not very popular and covers only evenly dispersed over the whole year. In small areas. The camel and sheep-goat herding contrary the rains have the sporadic but and grazing are very common (FIG 73, 74). In torrential character. It provokes the specific the last years the wind farms are built events called flash floods and sheet floods. They consuming increasing areas. are observed also in other Jordanian territories – see the spectacular and very dangerous The bedrock is formed mainly of carbonates and accidents in Petra and Wadi Musa in 2018. some conglomerates. All rock layers are the part These catastrophes already started the of the Edom Mountains monocline. The older significant modification of the morphology. As sediments are more visible in the West, toward we have already seen it in other places (i.e. the the source area of the rivers. The younger layers FIRST, SECOND, FOURTH and SIXTH (various limestones and chert limestones) form STOP) the water cuts the river beds very the bottom of valley knickpoints, rock walls (up quickly and deeply. The older terraces (fluvial to 10-15 m) and are also visible in the hills material sedimented along the stream courses) culminations (sometimes areas as quite large as are heavily eroded. several tens of square meters). The youngest rock formation is present in the form of fluvial and lacustrine conglomerates, compacted (well cemented), gravels-boulders (up to 400 mm in diameter). In these formation the pseudokarts were developed forming rock shelters and small caverns. What we are walking on are the Pleistocene and Holocene fluvial terraces built of gravels with layers of sands and clays. Very interesting are the limestone layers with thick beds of black and grey cherts. There are at least six levels with this rock so interesting for archaeologist and the perfect material for tools FIG. 81 knapping (FIG 75, 76).

On this bedrock the calcareous soils were formed in the form resembling terra rossa and

FIG. 82 FIG. 86

FIG. 83 FIG. 87

FIG. 84 FIG. 88

FIG. 85 FIG. 89

FIG. 90 FIG. 94

Other weather phenomenon is caused by the winds. They come from the Rift Valley and direct towards the desert. Very often you can observe small dust devils “dancing” on the close hills or just beside you (FIG 84). The everyday blows take up and move the soil and ground particles in suspension or saltation. The wind force changes daily and monthly but it is big enough to make economically possible for the FIG. 91 wind farms to be established. Today there are more and more wind-mill towers in the whole region. From time to time the area is subjected to the dust storm. Usually they occurred in the winter time but in recent times they are also observed during August to October. All these cause the typical arid environment formation – the desert pavement (FIG 85). The big blocks and gravels cover the whole area with the continuous layer. To be fair we should say that aforementioned sheet floods influence this FIG. 92 situation by moving also the bigger particles and the process begins again.

The dust storm or sand storm is the dangerous and very unpleasant phenomenon. It is connected with pressure changes. The dust is everywhere and gets everywhere. It is necessary to be well prepared – the scarf, hat and glasses are indispensable. Be cautious with contact lens and if you are asthmatic try to avoid the open spaces. The dust storm is mentioned here but it FIG. 93 could happened in any place in the Near East.

Sitting in Fayssalliah in complete peace and silence you can witness the real life of the semi- arid areas. The animals in this biotope are very overmodest and their coloring will not facilitate their observation. Concentrate on the ground and … perhaps at first you will see the starred agama (Laudakia stellio). It is really the small time to time the neighborhood of the dragon (up to 25-30 cm with tail), black in color Fayssalliah. with orange-yellow stripes and spots (stars) on the back (FIG 86). This genus lives in the Over you circling in the sky there are long- vicinity of streams or the seasonal river beds legged buzzards (Buteo rufinus), ospreys using the eroded terraces, gravels, rock shelters, (Pandion haliaetus), barbary falcons (Falco small caverns and corridors to hide and nest. It pelegrinoides), brown-necked raven (Corvus is harmless but disturbed it could be very fuficollis), and fan-tailed raven (Corvus “convincing” in the attack. rhipidurus). They circle sedately on the sky looking for the dainty like golden spiny mouse These lizard will be as interested to you, as (Acomys russatus).Having enough patience you other settlers of this area. Among plethora of can see (better with the binoculars) the barn owl insects one should point out the scorpions. They (Tyto alba) appearing out of nowhere from the are as famous and characteristic as timid. These shrubs and disappearing the same mysterious nocturnal animals hide under the rocks, in way. In turn very popular, active and brave is cracks, and in the gravels during the day. It is white wagtail (Motacilla alba). really by accident we can met them. There are here for example the Leiurus sp. or Buthacus sp. The effort of the Polish HLC Project shows that Certainly it is not advised to touch or take them. over the Pleistocene and Holocene and even However in case of bite their venom is earlier in Tertiary, the area was the scene of dangerous for children, persons with allergies several climate fluctuations. Certainly during and heart problems and the old people. Paleolithic it was intensively used by hunter- gatherers using the permanent rivers that head In Faysalliah area there are also numerous towards the contemporary desert, flora and grasshoppers, crickets and cicadas (FIG 87, 88, fauna. From the Neolithic era onward the area 89). The camouflage of these insects is so good became more arid but it was still possible to use that usually you hear them having the it for agricultural purposes. The drought impression of being very close but you cannot episodes of later history made the life there see them. You can follow the desert ants or more challenging. Finally in the Late Antique, darkling beetles. Not only agama feed on them. Byzantine and Medieval time the climatic There are also various birds “standing in line” to optimum allowed the agriculture to reappear catch the dinner. The most characteristic are the (olive groves, vineyards etc.). The later human hoopoe lark (Alaemon alaudipes), desert lark impact (see the SIXTH STOP) and (Ammomanes deserti), bar-tailed lark contemporary desertification “promote” the (Ammomanes cincturus). If you will scrabble in pasture land here. the ground like they do you will find the other form of insect – the pupa, in hard calcareous tubes.

The animals far harder to observe are the foxes (fennec, sand fox or red fox). This small fox has very characteristic ears and usually hunts during the dusk and night. It uses the cavern and water eroded corridors to build its nests. Farther in the SIXTH STOP desert live the stripped hyenas, golden jackal. However today they are at the edge of For the next stop just follow the common guide extinction. It is very hard to see them here to the Shawbak castle. As during this trip we do because they do not look for human company not want to enter the monument itself – please but because of sheep-goat herds and their find next to the road-sign to Ghuweir gully the accidental deaths these scavengers visit from convenient place to stop the car and admire the castle panorama (FIG 90). It towers above the colluvia, scree cut with gullies and small system of deep V-shaped valleys and ancient canyons. There are no tourist routes, or even ancillary settlements and fields. We have paths visible here. You can wander if they were already met the forest on our slow journey ever touched by human feet. Staying here you through the South Jordan. But we still do not should also watch under your feet. The rock realize this well enough because it is hard to layers around are rich with interesting imagine that this biotope was very important petrographic samples. Carefully sniping on this and widespread over the area as recently as hill you can find chert, druses, the crystals of Medieval time. According to historical text in quartz, or even amethyst, jasper etc. There are the second half of the 12th Century the ruler of also very interesting examples of shell- the Shawbak castle (called at that time the limestone. Do not forget to look on the living Montreal castle) – Reynald de Châtillon – nature as for example common asphodel started his diabolic plan to build the ship flotilla (Asphodelus aestivus). here on the land and transport it to Akaba harbor for blitzkrieg attack on Mecca. Before the plan After the first parking go down with the car and was completed Saladin burnt the ships around prepare yourself for the very steep line with the Shawbak castle and took the castle two breathtaking curves just over the abyss. Be very years after. What we want to show by this careful because in the 2018 the asphalt road was episode is the richness, woodiness of the severely damaged by the flash and sheet floods. Transjordan still in the 11th-13th Centuries. It There are gravels sedimented in numerous seems to be that beside the climatic changes places and finally the last 1-1,5 km of the (see FIFTH STOP) the anthropic factor was the asphalt was washed down. You should park important cause of biotope and landscape here – in 2019 there was some space to do it (for changes. 3-4 cars). It is possible to make this trip with “normal” car but going with 4×4 or off-road car Next continue towards the Ghuweir gully, called will be less stressful and safer. also Wadi al-Nakheel. The road passes the small settlements of Masjid al-Muqariyah and Al- In the aforementioned parking place it is worth Mansoura. However, the road is complicated to admire the water activity. Going down to the and it is worth to give here the GPS coordinates. starting point in the canyon you are walking on The road ends in: 30.595806 N / 35.560045 E; the fresh (2018) rolled down blocks of rock, and the path down the canyon begins at gravels, V-shaped incisions of the tortuous 30.596260 N / 35.565903 E. ephemeral water streams and their alluvial fans.

When you will go down the canyon make the first stop in the provisional parking on the right of the road (it is impossible to omit it). Already, here the adventure begins. The whole area is completely unpopulated. Gazing at the landscape you could admire the savage, arid, empty mountain ridges (FIG 91, 92). They stay around as silent witnesses of the past. Looking North you will clearly see the tectonic fault over the Wadi Ghuweir. It cuts the rocks obliquely from NW to SE forming the natural rock shelf (FIG 93). FIG. 94

The summits around seem to be unreachable. They rise up sharply to over 1600 m a.s.l. and are completely covered with rock debris,

FIG. 95 FIG. 99

FIG. 96 FIG. 100

FIG. 97 FIG. 101

FIG. 98 FIG. 102

FIG. 103 FIG. 107

The canyon itself starts with quite modest slopes and flat, 5-10 m width bottom (FIG 94). The sand-mud sediments and lush flora will accompany you for the next 1-2 km. The surrounding rocks – limestones – form the slopes and walls. Sometimes they are undercut by water streams forming the hangouts and roofs (FIG 95, 96). Please go quietly and observe not only the walls but also the water FIG. 104 stream and its alluvial plain. In the Wadi Ghuweir you will meet the small green tree frogs (Hyla savignyi) (FIG 97), as well as nice deep green crabs (Decapoda sp.) (FIG 98). Sometimes the green toad (Bufo viridis) will observe you from the distance. It is a perfect habitat for them. Around you there are plenty of butterflies, dragonflies and some other flying beings. Sometimes in the water there will be visible the shadows of small fishes or pollywogs. The microclimate is very soft, with FIG. 105 delicate breeze, moderate humidity, and pleasant temperatures.

You are walking down the canyon along the stream bed, with no path, in complete savageness and the surroundings and ambience will change with your each step (FIG 99, 100). Concurrently with the new geological layers – the sandstones, you enter the kingdom of silence, quietness, penumbra, and natural “art” – you cross here the timeline of 250 Million years FIG. 106 ago. The rocks will stand up forming at first steep slopes and then, very quickly the walls. They are up to 100 m high (FIG 101, 102, 103). In Internet you can find akin photos from the Petra but it is nothing in comparison to this place. The Wadi Ghuweir is outside the common tourist roads, outside the settled areas. It is completely savage. The impression of loneliness and isolation will be magnified by the (judging from the erosional signs on the rock rock walls “approaching” you from both sides, walls). and finally hanging over you with no sky visible. The bottom of this gorge narrows to less The whole tour could take 4-5 hours but you can than two meters. You walk on sandy sediment shorten it modifying the path. If you do not and water. Around you there is the rock wonder want to go the whole way down in some places – breathtaking, incredible, marvelous never- you can turn left (on the right side of the canyon ending picture of liesegang banding as we call there is no easy way up, and after you should the sand waves, lines, rings, fan-shaped cross the canyon again going back to your car). patterns, figures, crossbeds, fractals in reddish, But all these options require more demanding brownish, yellowish, whitish colors. You can trekking with the climbing fragments – the 1-3 photograph them, touch them, contemplate them UIAA grade. Watch carefully your position and – it is only for you – it is the incredible check the direction you go after leaving the experience (FIG 104, 105, 106). They were canyon. The orientation is difficult, there are no formed by groundwaters saturated with minerals evident orientation points, and the morphology of iron (giving red), manganese (black), copper is severely eroded, cut with water. Other (green), and sulfur (yellow). possibility, much more easy and safe is to go the whole way up. Passing the whole longitude of the Wadi Ghuweir you have the rare possibility to make the complete crossection from the high of the Edom Mountains, through their body, down to the rift plain. From the desert, through the humid valley (FIG 107) to sweltering depression of the Dead Sea (FIG 108, 109). At the end, almost on Wadi Araba plain it converges with the Wadi Feynan and the Dana SEVENTH STOP Valley. On your trip down the Wadi Ghuweir and especially at its end observe the tree biota. The Petra archaeological site is the historical There are here several rare or endemic species highlight in Jordan. It was popularized by the such as Atlantic pistachio, Indian rosewood Indiana Jones movies and attracts thousands of (Dalbergia sissoo), sumac (Rhus tripartita), and visitors every year. Walking through the Petra beside the steam reed (Phragmites australis), canyon beside the monuments the texture of the and cattail (Typha sp.). rocks may draw your attention (see also SIXTH STOP). The waving layers of black, brown, red, When taking a trip to the Wadi Ghuweir, please beige sandstones reflect the past climates and take into consideration that there is no mobile landscapes (FIG 110, 111, 112). In geology they network there – from time to time on the rock are called the liesegang banding. They formed walls you can find painted signs directing you as sand dunes and sand sheets of hot and vast where to go. However it is not sure you will get Pangea deserts. The scarce but torrential rains a good mobile phone connection. Second were accompanied with very strong winds – warning is about water. Preparing for this hurricanes and numerous fires. These extreme excursion check the rain predictions! Entering continental conditions were the home place for the sandstone gorge for next 5-7 km you will the ancestors of dinosaurs and some of their have practically no way to escape except going early species. During late Paleozoic and early down which can prove to be a lethal danger – Mesozoic that kind of climate and landscape you have no chance with water current. The rain extended on vast territories of our planet. This is causing the rise of water level may provoke in why the analogous geological profile can be the gorge the flood wave of up to 3-5 m high documented not only in the Petra region in Jordan but also, as far to the West as in the Asuan area in Egypt – where some pharaoh it was never entirely rebuilt especially that the tombs were built. Today the colors of the rocks next natural catastrophes hit it in AD 551 and as well as the pictures on them are admirable. AD 749, not mentioning the political changes.

Despite the popularity of Petra and great quantity of guides at this place you van very rarely hear about at least one more interesting feature. After the walk through the narrow rock corridor (as-Siq) the path is broadening and leads to the open space of Petra city. The area is covered with the monuments varying in age, dag by the archaeologists and reconstructed for a long time. This reconstructions give the possibility to imagine the original appearance of the city. However, the destroyed part is as much interesting. It was already said at the beginning FIG. 108 of this text that we are in the seismic zone of the Arabian Tectonic plate. In the Dead Sea Rift Zone the earthquakes are very numerous. All the cities established in these terrains from the dawn of human settlement were touched with these catastrophic events. The archeo- seismologists analyzing the place and the character of the destructions were able to reconstruct the magnitude and even the date of particular earthquakes. The seismological research over the Petra city was so effective and FIG. 109 promising that it stopped the reconstruction of some parts. Thanks to this you can admire now the evidence of some catastrophes.

The most characteristic are some of the Petra city columns – colonnaded street. They were erected with the stone round tablets – we can call them pastilles – over 50 cm in diameter. Some of these columns are already rebuilt but several still lie down on the ground – please look at them. Every column element lies on FIG. 110 another as the vertebra of the dinosaur backbone (FIG 113). Carefully analyzing the direction of the demolished columns and the general character of destruction it was possible to argue that they were the consequences of the AD 363 earthquake. It is without any doubt that Petra as all other cities in the Near East, Eastern Mediterranean and Anatolia was touched by several episodes like the one described above and carefully analyzing their stratigraphy we can reconstruct them quite clearly. Not only the FIG. 111 city was destroyed in 4th century AD, moreover

FIG. 112 FIG. 116

FIG. 113 FIG. 117

FIG. 114 FIG. 118

FIG. 115 FIG. 119

Today Petra is inhabited by several flora and phenomena can be observed. The plant cover is fauna species as other valleys and canyons of scarce but from the close observation it is as the South Jordan (see FIRST, THIRD, SIXTH interesting as in other parts of Jordan. Observant and SEVENTH STOP). We have not eye will see chamomile (Anthemis sp.), gold mentioned yet some of the interesting animals coin (Asteriscus sp.), eryngo star-thistle living here. The most famous and spectacular (Centaurea eryngioides), taily weed are the Sinai agama (Pseudotrapelus sinaitus) (Ochradenus baccatus), eyelash plant (FIG 114). This rainbow lizard has little fear (Blepharis ciliaris) and many others (FIG 115, and is easy to find on the Petra rocks. Especially 116, 117). This flora and also insect fauna (FIG going the way to Monastery watch the 118) attract the birds blackcap (Sylvia surroundings. They are very nice to photograph atricapilla), hooded wheathear (Oenanthe but do not try to touch them. Another lizard here monacha) and other animals (see previous is toad-headed agama (Phrynocephalus STOPS, FIG 119). arabicus) which is perhaps less spectacular but it is harder to spot so its encounter is even more The Wadi Rum is a very popular place for satisfactory. This animal is also popular in the trekking, mountaineering, climbing, ballooning Wadi Rum (see the EIGHT STOP). During the and other outdoor activities. entire visit to Petra you will be accompanied by the birds “watch”. Among them nesting on the rocks will be very characteristic common swift (Apus apus) and little green bee-eater (Merops orientalis). Long-billed pipit (Anthus similis) and blue rock-thrush (Manticola solitarius) are also quite common.

NINETH STOP

The South Jordan trip should end in the port of Aqaba. It is completely different from the rest of the proposed locations. The last stop will offer you the rest on the beaches of the Red Sea. The ancient port is also very important today. It is EIGHT STOP the Jordan “entrance to the world”. You can pass a pleasant time walking in the littoral On our journey southward there is another environment and having a meal in one of important place. It is the Wadi Rum – the most numerous restaurants serving fresh sea food. prominent cultural, natural, sportive target of You can also swim in the sea and dive in the Jordan visitors. This area is widely described in reef. The harbor ambiance – should anybody be various tourist guides and it is not worth to interested – is for free here. provide here its detailed description. We can state only that the Wadi Rum (or Valley of the Moon) gives the perfect opportunity to see the sandstones and magmatic rocks outcrops. There are there also numerous petroglyphs, ruins, and other archaeological sites.

From historical point of view it is the interesting place for Arab Revolt – Lawrence of Arabia’s adventures. In the area the desert dunes, eolic weathering and other arid environment Heritage The best known Petra buildings:  Al-Khazneh called the “Pharaoh’s treasury” (Khazneh al-Firaun) – a stone-edged building erected around the 1st and 2nd Petra centuries AD In a sense, it is the flagship and the most famous monument of Petra. It (from Greek πέτρα, pétra, “rock”, Arabic: is not clear the purpose of the building, al-Batrā’) – a rock town created in although recently the view prevails that it ,ال ب تراء Nabatean period, which flourished in ancient was a tomb (and not a temple) of one of the times – in the period between the third century rulers of Petra – perhaps Aretas IV and his BC and the first century AD Petra was then the wife capital of the Nabatean kingdom. It is located in  Ad-Deir, or “Monastery” – the name comes southern Jordan, in a mountainous region about from the Byzantine period, when the 20 km south of the city of Shawbak. It lies in a building was actually a Christian monastery. stone sandstone valley, to which leads a narrow It is a building at first sight similar to Al- road among the rocks – the As-Sik gorge. Petra Khazneh, however it is much larger and is famous for its numerous buildings carved in more impressive since then and looks more the rocks. The Nabataeans called Petra majestic; it was most probably created “Rakmu” what means “multicolor”. The second during the reign of the last Nabatean king – route to Petra leads from the side of Wadi Araba Rabel II (70-106)  through a mysterious and full building valley Kasr el-Bint Firaun, i.e. “Palace of the daughter of Pharaoh”, temple of Duszara called Wadi Sabra. (local deity of the Nabateans). It is a temple The valley of Petra crosses the bed of the built of sandstone in the second half. 1st temporary river – Wadi Musa, whose tributaries century BC (during the reign of Obodas III are surrounded by plateaus, on which the 30-8 BC), or in the first half. And in the ancient city of Nabataeans has grown. The Middle Ages, that is, during the reign of surrounding year-round streams of water Aretas IV ensured the survival of only a small housing  A great group of the Royal Tombs on the so- estate. The significant population growth during called Royal Wall, which consists of “Urn’s Petra’s greatest prosperity meant that the Tomb”, “Tomb of Jedwabne”, “Korobski’s Nabataeans had to expand the system of water Tomb” and a monumental “Tomb of the supply and rock tanks to store water for the Palace”; however, no debris was found in ever-growing population of once sprawling them palatial buildings and gardens.  The tomb of Sextus Florentinus (Roman governor), erected around 130 AD, in the northern part of the city, is one of the most famous monuments in Petra related directly to the Romans. In addition to this object, quite a few graves of Roman soldiers were found in Petra  Theater – one of the largest buildings in Petra, housing from 6 to even 10,000 spectators; was probably built in the first century AD, also during the reign of Aretas IV. It is believed that it was considerably expanded after Trajan seized Petra  Obelisk’s Tomb – a tomb topped with four obelisks formed in the rock. It reflects the Mobile – app VISIT PETRA harmony of combining Nabatean and Egyptian art. It is assumed that it was used to conduct funeral rites. It is surrounded by Montreal Castle (Shawbak) stone seats (triclinium)  Suchur al-Jinn – the rocks of the genie, the One of the most beautiful and interesting presentation of the god Duszara medieval castles in the Middle East. It was built in 1115 by the King of Jerusalem, Baldwin I, as the first in the present-day Jordan. Originally it was called Mons Regalis, because the king Dana Nature Reserve himself supervised the construction of this fortress. Montreal was of great strategic importance at that time, because it was brought ضان ا محم ية :Dana Nature Reserve (Arabic one of the two Jordanian up on the hill, which provided the crusaders – (ال ح يوي ل لمح يط biosphere reserves, located in the province of with control over the vast plains of Edom, At-Tafila, in southern Jordan, created in 1989. It through which trade and pilgrimage routes is managed by The Royal Society for the crossed the route from Syria to the Arabian Conservation of Nature. In 1998, the reserve peninsula, e.g. King’s Road. The defensive was included into the network of UNESCO values of the castle were raised by two water- biosphere reserves. carved water tanks and a fairly fertile strip of land around it. This meant that Montreal could Dan’s Reserve is the largest protected area in be practically self-sufficient for some time. Jordan. It stretches across the Jordan Valley, thanks to archaeological research, for example, which is part of the Great African Ramps from four tunnels leading from the castle to its foot the Wadi Arab Valley (about -200 m above sea were located. level) to the hills with cliff slopes around Al- Qadisija reaching more than 1,400 m above sea In the hands of the Crusaders, the castle level. Due to the diversity of climatic zones, remained until 1142, when it was incorporated from the Mediterranean to the desert, and into the Duchy of Oultrejordain, which was a geological forms, the Dana Reserve is a reserve fief of the Kingdom of Jerusalem. At the same with the greatest diversity of plant and animal time, the castle lost its privileged position in species in Jordan. It is the southernmost position favor of Karak, where a larger and better of the so-called forests with evergreen cypress. fortified castle was erected. The whole area of There are over 830 species of plants in the Montreal – Kerak was defended by casters’ reserve, including three endemic. You can also crews in the strength of 60 knights. After 1142, meet about 215 species of birds (which is 50% the castle belonged to Philip of Milly, and in of all observed by ornithologists in Jordan), 1175, after the marriage of Stefania de Milly including such species as syrian syrium. There (daughter of Philip) with Rejnald of Chatillon, are also 38 species of mammals, among others: the stronghold fell to the latter. This was steppe caracal, Nubian capricorn, Persian wolf decisive for the fate of not only Montreal, but or desert cat. also the whole of the Kingdom of Jerusalem, because Rejnald used Montreal as a base for The area currently belonging to the Dana assaults on Arab caravans, which until now reserve for thousands of years was also a place enjoyed the privilege of moving freely through of human activity. There are over 100 the Kingdom. The new master of the castle also archaeological sites located in its area. The most planned to build ships in the vicinity of extensive and known is Chirbat Faynan. The Montreal, which would then be transported to town located in Wadi Faynan, whose origins the coast of the Red Sea to carry out a sea date back to around 4000 BC, was one of the landing on Mecca. first and largest copper mines in antiquity. Its origins date back to the late Neolithic period, The renewed attacks and war plans of Rejnald and it continued to work until the fourth century of Chatillon caused a serious inflame of AD relations with the Ayyubids and, consequently, Saladin’s attack on the Kingdom of Jerusalem in remains of the Edomite settlement were 1187. Muslims quickly defeated the Christian discovered under some of the structures erected knights (Saladin personally beheaded Rejnalda by the Nabateans. The largest buildings were around 4 July 1187) and began the siege of the built here, however, in the Nabatean period. In castle of Montreal. Because of its favorable the fourth century AD the settlement was location, the castle defended itself for almost partially destroyed by an earthquake. In the 6th two years, because Saladin could not use siege century this area was again settled by a small machines. There are no flat areas around the Byzantine community, which continued its castle. The defenders of Montreal capitulated existence here until the Abbasidic period. only in May 1189. Apparently, during the defense, crusaders sold their families for food The Nabatean settlement consisted of a large (but after the surrender of the families, freedom palace, public buildings and oil press, and was returned, as were the surviving crusaders). numerous smaller houses. The temple complex Around 1260, Montreal was occupied and is unusual because it consists of two large largely rebuilt by the Mamluks, and the 14th- courtyards, which may indicate the separation of century inscriptions visible on the outer walls of ritual participants. Later Byzantine and early the castle remain to this day. Islamic communities limited their construction activities to building small houses, and the The castle from the outside still looks temple itself was transformed first into a small magnificent, but inside it remains badly ruined, church, and then into a stable. although the conservation and research works are underway here. However, the tourist Roman fort in Udruh attraction remains: huge walls, towers, entrance also known as Adhruh, is ,(اذرح :gate and a well-preserved underground passage, Udruh (Arabic leading deeply (350 degrees) down the rock, to a town in southern Jordan, administratively the water reservoirs at the bottom. Currently, the belonging to the district of Ma’an. It is located archaeological research is carried out 15 km east of Petra. Udruh was inhabited by the successfully by the scientists from the Nabataeans in the first century BC, and later University of Florence under the direction of became the seat of the fortified Roman military prof. Guido Vannini. camp being the seat of Legion VI Ferrata. The Udruh camp functioned until the 6th century Chirbat ed-Darih temple AD and was one of the most prosperous cities in the region. In 631 he passed into Muslim hands. Nabatean settlement and temple located about In the Ottoman times, another fort was built in 10 km north of the city of At-Tafila, at the so- the city. The settlement in Udruh was called The Royal Route, in one of the valleys abandoned in the Ottoman era. reaching Wadi Has (Wadi La’aban). A Nabatean temple, houses and probably a palace Archaeological findings show that Udruh was a of the ruler, a burial ground and irrigation Nabataean settlement at least from the installations were discovered here. A beginning of the first century BC. and considerable amount of Nabatean ceramics developed in parallel with Petra up to the 1st indicates that the settlement belonged to the century BC phase of Nabatean culture, in which the The Roman fort probably originated after the Nabataeans went into a more settled way of life Roman annexation of the Nabatean Kingdom in and based their economy largely on agriculture. 106 AD Fort could have been a continuation of the military structure built by the Nabataeans. The first settlement was established here in the At the end of the third or early fourth century, Neolithic period. A small settlement in the early Legion VI of Ferrata moved its headquarters to Bronze Age is also visible on the highest hill Udruh. From the 4th century AD the settlement south of the Nabatean village. In turn, the was also known from the name Augustopolis. Udruh remained an important settlement under under this title, which Lawrence wrote in the the Byzantine rule, and during this period, wake of participating in the war (although the demolition and rebuilding of existing military name of the novel has nothing to do with Wadi structures in the city were carried out. In 530, Rum). Emperor Justinian removed the legionaries from there who occupied the Limes Arabicus The Wadi Rum region is today one of the most fortifications. In the 6th-century census, popular tourist regions in Jordan, very popular containing data about the Palaestina province of among foreign tourists. A typical tourist route Tertia, known as the Edict of Beersheba, Udruh includes a few-hour or full-day tour with a four- was recorded as a settlement paying the second wheel drive of major tourist attractions, lunch highest tax amount. This shows its importance and an evening party with overnight in one of as a regional center at the time. In the early the many Bedouin camps. Popular forms of seventh century AD a church was built outside recreation are also: visiting desert areas, the city walls. camping “under the stars”, horse riding (Arabian horses) and rock climbing. Wadi Rum Humeima is a valley lying (رم وادي :Wadi Rum (Arabic among granite and sandstone rocks, which is Humeima (also known as Hawara – Arabic: ,was a trading post in southern Jordan (ال حم يمة also the largest Jordanian valley. In 2011, this area was protected and was included in the which was founded by the Nabatean king Aretas UNESCO World Heritage List. The entire III in the beginning of the first century BC. The protected area is concentrated around the main stand is located 45 km south of Petra and 55 km Wadi Rum valley. In this region there is also the north of Aqaba, near the desert highway. You highest hill in Jordan – Jabal Umm ad Dami, can visit them on the way to Wadi Rum. 1840 m above sea level, located 30 km south of Humeima has been in operation since about 90 the village of Wadi Rum. On a clear day from BC. to the early Islamic period. There are the top you can see the Red Sea and the Saudi remnants of Nabatean, Roman, Byzantine and border. Islamic constructions, including a Roman bath, five Byzantine churches and an Islamic palace. In Wadi Rum there is also a large number of petroglyphs, for example in Khaz’ali Canyon. It The settlement was probably founded as a stop is a place rich in petroglyphs engraved in the on the trade route leading from Petra to the Gulf walls of caves depicting people and antelopes, of Aqaba. In the Greco-Roman epoch, it was and dating back to the Tamudic times. The called Auara (Greek: Αὔαρα, the name probably contemporary village of Wadi Rum has several comes from the word “Hawara”, meaning hundred inhabitants – Bedouins, living in tents “white” in Aramaic.) The city was also a with goatskin, but in concrete houses. Abbasid center around 700 AD, and this is During the prehistoric period, the Wadi Rum where the first three three caliphs were born: As valley was inhabited by many different -Saffah, Al-Mansur and Al-Mahdi. communities. Significant traces (eg the temple) were left here, eg by the Nabataeans. The most interesting antiquities preserved here include water tanks. Because rainfall here does Wadi Rum is known in the world thanks to the not exceed 80 cm per year, extensive cisterns activities of the British officer, Thomas Edward were built in the city to store water and irrigate Lawrence, who was active in this area during the surrounding fields. An important structure the anti-Turkish Arab uprising in 1917-1918. In related to water management was the so-called the eighties, one of the characteristic rock Aqueduct built in the first century BC, which formations of Wadi Rum was given the name consisted of a main line of 18.9 km, leading “Seven Pillars of Wisdom” because of the book water from Ain al-Qanah at an altitude of 1425 m to a tank in the city center at an altitude of The local ceramics are characterized by red and 995 m. This system was also equipped with 6 black coloring of dishes, and some of their settlers. The maximum possible water flow was shapes testify to the Assyrian influence. 150 m3 / day, the overall slope was 2.45%. The aqueduct consisted of a thick foundation wall, Gharandal which supported long stone sewer blocks surrounded by rubble mortar. The canal blocks The city is called in the ancient sources of were made of yellow marl or white sandstone. Arindel (Greek: Ἀρίνδηλα), which was the The whole structure was topped with flat center of the Late Roman province of Palaestina limestone tiles. This is an example of a typical Salutaris, also called Palaestina Tertia. It hydrotechnical construction from the Nabatean corresponds to the modern Gharandal settlement period, and similar buildings were found in in the At-Tafila region, southern Jordan. The almost all centers attributed to the Nabateans. city is located at an altitude of 1300 meters Aqueduct in Humeima is by far the longest above sea level. It was probably founded by the construction of this type. Nabataeans (there were found relics of the Nabatean temple), but it gained more Buseira importance in Byzantine times, taking third place among the provincial cities. Arindela was also a Christian bishopric. We know from ,ب ص يرا :Bozrah, Botsra or Botzrah (Arabic translit. Buṣayrā) is an archaeological site and a sources that one of the local bishops, modern town in the area of the city of At-Tafila, Theodorus, took part in the Council of Ephesus in southern Jordan. Some researchers identify in 431. Another – Makariusz – participated in this place with the Hebrew Bible mentioned the council in Jerusalem in 536. several times. According to the biblical story, it In Gharandal you may find fragmentary was the capital of Edom and the home of the preserved relics of the Byzantine church and twin brother of Jakub, Esau. traces of the Nabatean temple.

Conducted in 1971-1974 was managed by C. M. Beidha Bennett. Covering an area of 8 ha, the city is al-baîḍ, “white”), also ال ب ي ضا :situated on a spur drooping northwards and Beidha (Arabic surrounded by a casemate wall erected most sometimes Bayda, is a famous Neolithic probably in the Iron Age II (1000-587 BC); a archaeological site located a few kilometers small passage in it allowed access to a source north of Petra near Siq al-Barid in southern which is about 2 km away. The beginning of Jordan. It is located within the Petra settlement in this place in the 9th century BC Archaeological Park and is also included in the was found. Its continuity until the end of the zone included in the UNESCO World Heritage Assyrian reign in the seventh century BC was List. also confirmed. Two chronologically consecutive palaces were It was once discovered by Diana Kirkbride in discovered on the city acropolis. The larger, 1957, and was later investigated by Brian Byrd. older building (77 x 38 m), which was only Determined three periods of functioning of the exposed in the eastern part, had rooms centered settlement: the period of the Natufian culture in around two inner yards. With an entrance from the eleventh millennium BC, the settlement the eastern courtyard, the western part was from the pre-Adamic period B (PPNB) with probably a house passage. The younger palace buildings dated to the VII millennium BC. and (48 x 36 m) was characterized by a regular the Nabataan period, dated to the 1st or 2nd layout of the rooms around the inner courtyard, century BC typical of the Assyrian times. The most famous is Beidha from the Neolithic period. It is characterized in the oldest layers of a seasonal camp, which has been occupied for a long time. Flint monuments and the location and hot natural springs in Afra and Burbeita. In the location of hearths suggested that the vicinity of the city, archaeologists (also Polish) inhabitants were migrating periodically hunters. have found traces of human activity since the This is also indicated by the lack of permanent Paleolithic period. In the city there is a small buildings, warehouses, burials and large stone castle from the Middle Ages, which is currently tools. undergoing a restaurant.

It is believed that the Neolithic scene in Beidha In the Middle Ages, before At-Tafila passed was one of the earliest permanent settlements in under Muslim rule, for a short time she was this area, dated between 7,200 and 6,500 BC. In under the rule of the Crusaders. The city also the earliest stages of PPNB, the population was played a role in the newest history – January 25, estimated at 50 to 115 people. Residents of the 1918, the Arab forces under the command of settlement constructed stone buildings and a T.E. Lawrence and Prince Zeid bin Hussein wall around a housing estate consisting of round defeated a 900-foot Turkish detachment near the houses, slightly recessed into the ground. city. Inhabitants cultivated as one of the first wheat and barley at an early stage of domestication, In At-Tafila there is a Technical University raised goats and hunted for various wild founded in 1986. A team of Polish animals, such as capricornens, and collected archaeologists from the Jagiellonian University wild plants, fruits and nuts. Also, burials has been working around the city since 2013. sometimes considered ritual were found in the settlement. Traces indicate that the settlement Sela was destroyed by a fire around 6650 BC, and ,as-Sala ‘, Greek: πέτρα :, ال س لع :then rebuilt so that rectangular buildings and Sela (Arabic workshops were created. At the peak of its Latin: petra) was, according to the Bible, the prosperity, the settlement was inhabited by 125- capital of Edom, situated in a great valley 255 people. Around 6,500 BC the settlement extending from the Dead Sea to the Red Sea. was abandoned again, for unknown reasons. Many items found here come from materials Sela is identified today with the ruins of Sela, imported from a distance, such as Anatolian located east of At-Tafila in southern Jordan obsidian and mother of pearl from the Red Sea. (sometimes referred to as biblical Tophel) and The transition from roundhouses to rectangular near the town of Bozrah (Buseira). buildings shows the important change that has taken place in human societies that could have You enter the site with long, partly natural, and contributed to the creation of the first cities. A partly carved stairs in the rock. At the top there structure derived from the Neolithic Age, which are relics of stone buildings made of stone and is interpreted as an early temple, has also been forged in the rock, probably in the times of the identified here. Edomites and Nabataeans. On one of the rock walls there is a heavily damaged Neobabonite At-Tafila relief of King Nabonid. In recent years archaeological research in the position was is a city in southern conducted by the Spanish archaeological ,(ال ط ف ي لة :At-Tafila (arab Jordan, located 183 km south-west of Amman. mission under the direction of prof. Rocio da Is the capital of the district. It is famous for its Riva. green gardens, where olive and fig trees and vines are grown. At-Tafila was built as a city by Akaba the Edomites and was called Tophel then. al-‘Aqabah) – a city in ,ال ع ق بة :Aqaba (Arab There are over 360 natural springs in the Tafilah southwestern Jordan, the capital of the Aqaba area, including the natural Dan reservoir and the Muhammad, located on the Gulf of Aqaba (Red Sea), the only seaport of Jordan (Jordan has  1917, the Arab insurgents, in cooperation only 27 km of coastline). The city has a fishing with Lawrence of Arabia, drove the Turkish port, airport, road and rail connection with garrison out of the city Amman and road with Medina (Saudi Arabia). There is a water sports center and a sea Wadi Feynan aquarium here. وادي :Wadi Feynan or Wadi Faynan (arab is an important valley in southern (ف ي نان The most important monuments Jordan, located on the border between At-Tafila  the ruins of a fourth-century Byzantine and Ma’an. It starts in the southern highlands of church discovered in 1998 Jordan, at the confluence of Wadi Dan and  Ruins of the Mamluk four-sided fort from Wadi Gweyr, and flows down to the Dead Sea the 16th century, 50 meters by 50 meters by Wadi Arab.  Small archeological museum operating in the former residence of Hussein, the leader In the region of this valley there were the largest of the anti-Turkish Arab uprising after the copper deposits known in the region and easily Aqaba in 1917. accessible. They were intensively exploited  The collection includes small finds from the Chalkolith period (4500-3100 BC) to associated with the Nabatean kingdom as the Mamluk period (1250-1516). There are also well as elements of Chinese ceramics, Iraqi many archeological sites important for the and Egyptian coins and Byzantine reliefs prehistory of southern Jordan.

History of the city Part of Wadi Feynan is located within the Dana Nature Reserve. The Royal Society for Nature  X century BC – copper smelting center and Conservation (RSCN) opened the first fishing village ecological hotel in the valley in 2005 – the  III – II century BC – captured by Egypt Feynan Ecolodge.  1st century BC – under the rule of the Nabateans known as Aila  in Roman times, renamed Ailana, was an important city on the route from Damascus

to Egypt and Palestine  after the Umayyads occupied the city, the

name Aila was restored and surrounded by fortifications. The city has become an important connecting place for pilgrims to Mecca  1024 – city acquired by local tribes  1068 – destroyed by an earthquake  1116 – captured by crusaders who built on the coastal island (called the pharaoh’s island) fort  1170 – Saladyna’s reflection of the city  1250 – capture of the city by the Mamluk army. The Mamluk Sultans built a fort within the city  beginning of the sixteenth century – the city is moving into the sphere of influence of the

Ottoman Empire and is losing its importance

POLISH ARCHAEOLOGICAL RESEARCH IN Polish research SOUTHERN JORDAN

NEW POLISH RESEARCH PROJECT HERITAGE-LANDSCAPE-COMMUNITY

RESEARCH ON BRONZE AGE IN SOUTHERN JORDAN

MEDIEVAL CASTLES OF SOUTHERN JORDAN

ROMAN TRACES IN SOUTHERN JORDAN: ARTU-DTU – ARCHAEOLOGICAL STUDY OF DAJANIYA & TUWANEH

There are places on Earth that are truly PROTECTION AND MANAGEMENT OF exceptional; so saturated with traces of the ARCHAEOLOGICAL HERITAGE IN past that they almost resound with voices of JORDAN – RESEARCH PROJECT people who lived there centuries ago. When strolling along the roads of Southern Jordan, POLISH ARCHAEOLOGICAL RESEARCH IN or when visiting desert archaeological sites NORTHERN JORDAN located in this part of Jordan, we come face to face not only with monuments or ANCIENT CITY OF KAPITOLIAS – information about the lives of local ancient RESEARCH OF THE THE POLISH communities, but also with today’s problems CENTRE OF MEDITERRANEAN of their protection, restoration and ARCHAEOLOGY, UNIVERSITY OF oftentimes complicated perseverance in the WARSAW IN BEIT RAS contemporary world. Despite being a treasury of knowledge about our past, the

Southern Jordan should be an unceasing field of needed scientific activities which may NEW POLISH RESEARCH PROJECT produce not only new historical monuments HERITAGE-LANDSCAPE-COMMUNITY and other traces of the past but also a huge amount of information allowing for reconstruction of people’s lives in the past. New Polish research project in the southern Jordan, entitled Heritage-Landscape- The archaeologist’s privilege is to study the Community (HLC Project), has past and communing with monuments, but been started in 2014. also to look at the beauty of this region and Archaeologists and students the kindness and hospitality of the people from the Institute of Archaeology of the who live in this unusual place. Jagiellonian University conduct survey and excavation exploration of area located in At-

Tafila Directorate. Project is directed by Dr. Piotr Kołodziejczyk. In cooperation with the

Jordanian Department of Antiquities Polish archaeologists are looking for traces of human activity from the Stone Age to the Medieval times. The area of survey is located in the vicinity of important archaeological sites such working for many years in the area of southern as the capital of the Edomites – Bosra (now city Jordan, under direction of prof. Guido Vannini. Buseira) or refugium rock Sela, often While both research missions operate interpreted as an important cult place and arena independently, they remain in a very kind of the great battle between the Israelites and cooperation and relations. Edomites. The area is also close to famous Wadi Feynan – valley of copper mines, which has As an effect of our activities the first specialized played a key role in the processing of this project concerning Early Bronze Age in material and its exports to neighboring areas in southern Jordan (see below) will be stared in the Early Bronze Age. 2017. This is possible thanks to the National Center of Science whose specialists appreciated Cracow archaeologists are especially interested our efforts and granted us a research funds for in finds from the Bronze Age, which may help the next few years. to answer many questions related to human presence in the area of Edom in that period. Long-term research topic of Polish archaeologists is primarily a model of Fot. Piotr Kołodziejczyk transportation routes in southern Jordan and the role of environmental conditions in the development and transformation of human activity in this area. The whole project will be a beginning of thematically and methodologically integrated, field works and analysis devoted to the role of landscape in archeology and cultural changes. The HLC Project is going to help in understanding the processes of cultural change and locate them in the context of nature and landscape. It will be also very interesting analysis in the context of modern Jordan and the development of tourism as well as heritage and traditions protection.

The works of project are conducted in very difficult, mountain area. Polish team made a documentation of more than 100 areas with artifacts which may be described after further analysis as archaeological sites. As an effect the collection of thousands of pottery shards and flint tools as well as several other interesting items eg. comb made of slate and pieces of glass bracelets probably of early medieval provenience were identified.

It is also worth to mention that activities of the

Institute of Archaeology of the Jagiellonian University in Jordan during the 2014 season was the first Polish independent research project on this area. Its start was possible thanks to the support provided by the Italian team of archaeologists from the University of Florence, centers appear, production technologies of various objects are developed (e.g. metallurgy) and long-distance trade flourishes. At that time important social changes repeatedly occurred in the lands of Egypt and Near East – the first kingdoms of spatial character appeared (Egypt in Predynastic, Archaic and Old Kingdom periods) and cities-states controlling smaller areas, a hierarchical structure of particular communities was shaped and gradually deepened, cults and funereal customs developed. Writing systems and the ideology of power and religion are developed and became a crucial factor of cultural existence. People’s migrations are clearly visible and the influence of mobile nomadic groups on the functioning of especially the area of south Jordan, which in an

environment of dynamically changing areas could not be a “white spot”. Unfortunately, the state of research on the problems of the early Bronze Age in areas of the Levant is not uniform.

That is why the main aim of our project is an attempt to establish the role of the region of southern Jordan in this important period.

Through archaeological excavations at selected sites we will try to describe the stages of human activity in this period in the area of interest. As an example, we’ll use the area covering the micro-region of At-Tafila city located in RESEARCH ON BRONZE AGE IN southern Jordan. Our goal will also be the SOUTHERN JORDAN answer to the question about the possible contacts of the region with Egypt and the rest of The Near East is an area not only very important Levant which were the areas where at this time for the history of culture, but also very vast and important changes were taking place and the diverse. The history of the land legible thanks to state of research on Bronze Age seems to be many scientific analysis makes it one of the much more advanced. most significant for learning the history of mankind – from the moment Thanks to already begun in 2014 surface representatives of our species prospection, we know that this region gives a left Africa app. 200 thousand huge chance of finding answers to questions years ago until the present which bother archaeologists. It consists high times. The Early Bronze Age number of archaeological sites dated by us for period in the Near East area is the Bronze Age. Therefore, key research one of the most fascinating research problems in problems will be the issues of settlement contemporary archaeology. Lasting for app. network and structure, external contacts and 1700 years (3700-1950 B.C.), the period influences, architectonic and funereal traditions abounded in events and cultural changes. and ceramic and flint stone production during During the Early Bronze Age the first urban the Early Bronze Age. Our excavations will be also supported by specialized laboratory MEDIEVAL CASTLES OF SOUTHERN analysis, so that we will know the exact age of JORDAN discovered artifacts as well as methods for their production and use. During surface prospection conducted by the Jagiellonian The work of our project will also provide an University within the important contribution to the protection of framework of the HLC Project heritage and archaeological sites in the area of in the At-Tafilah district in Southern Jordan, often underrated today, 2016, several interesting because of its relatively unspectacular character archaeological sites were identified, two of (comparing to eg. Petra or Kerak sites). They which were considered as relics of medieval surely constitute the key to the development of buildings with high research potential, and in scientific knowledge. The study will also let us which field work should be extended and to develop work of polish scientist in Jordan in continued in next years. the coming years. The first of these places is the Qasr ed-Deir site, located a few kilometers south-west of the city of At-Tafilah. The building that was established Fot. Piotr Kołodziejczyk in this place towered over the landscape and the visibility from this place allowed to control a fragment of the so-called Royal Way. In 2016, Polish researchers began to analyze the destroyed building (monastery, castle?) and proceeded with its full documentation. During the research, fragments of medieval ceramics (including glazed) were also found, as well as remains of the grave robbers’ remnants (at the cemetery located east of the monastery/castle).

The main purpose of the works carried out here today is to perform a full inventory of relics and to establish their chronology (including possible stages of reconstruction). A photogrammetric inventory of relics and excavations in several places are necessary to determine the stratigraphy of the existing buildings and therefore those activities are being carried out.

Some rooms inside the building were also partially explored, obtaining confirmation of its Byzantine affiliation, at least in the late phase of use. An interesting research problem is also the moment when the building went into the hands of Islamic rulers and its function in that times, as well as examining of the reasons and the moment of its abandonment.

Fot. Przemysław Nocuń, Piotr Kołodziejczyk Dajaniya has been visited by many researchers and travellers. From a scientific point of view, the greatest role in the early stage of research on Dajaniya was played by Brünnow and Domaszewski. They made the first plan of the fort and published it in 1905.

The most extensive archaeological research on Dajaniya was conducted in 1989 as part of the Limes Arabicus Project, including seven trial trenches (Fig. 9). The archaeological work done so far has not provided a final answer as to when the fort was built. The material obtained in field surveys was mainly pottery from the Late Roman and Early Byzantine period (up to early 6th century). However, it also included earlier pottery, dating back to the early 2nd century CE. The presence of Early Roman pottery indicates that there was some human

activity in the region then. Most researchers think that the fort in Dajaniya was built during the reorganisation of the border by emperor Diocletian in the late 3rd and early 4th centuries. It was then that Roman troops were installed in a number of Moabite and Nabatean watchtowers and many new forts were built east of via nova Traiana.

It is also unknown what unit or even type of unit served there. Domaszewski believed that it must have been cohors quingenaria equitata, a mixed ROMAN TRACES IN SOUTHERN regiment of both infantry and cavalry. However, JORDAN: ARTU-DTU – other scholars prefer to think that it was cavalry ARCHAEOLOGICAL STUDY OF only. Kennedy and Riley concluded that either DAJANIYA & TUWANEH several different units or a half of a cohors quingenaria equitata were stationed there. They suggest that the structures in the middle of the Dajaniya is one of the largest Roman fortresses in Jordan. It is situated approximately 30 km camp were barracks, while those near the walls were stables, so both cavalry and infantry were northeast of the Roman legionary fort in Udruh, 78 km south of legionary fort in Lejjun, and 19 stationed there. km southwest of the castellum Jurf ed- Darawish, between two Roman roads running In 2018 season team of archaeologists from the along the border: the Desert Institute of Archaeology, Jagiellonian Highway, which runs along the University and surveyors and surveying students old Roman road, and the from the Faculty of Mining Surveying and King’s Highway, which runs Environmental Engineering of the AGH – along the same route as the University of Science and Technology in Roman via Nova Traiana. It is Krakow conducted a week long survey at the situated on a hill at 1090 m a.s.l., which made it site. Our goal was to prepare a 3D model of the a good lookout point. architectural remains of the fort as they are seen now. To accomplish it we used a combination of 3D laser scanning, ultra-low altitude photogrammetry (ULAPh) and close-range photogrammetry. The resulting model will allow us not only to better monitor the site for future damage due to both nature and humans but also will be a basis for a 3D reconstruction of the Roman fortress. Fot. Maciej Bernaś

Tuwaneh (aka at-Tuwāna), is located approximately 5 km south of the road connecting Tafila with the castellum Jurf ed- Darawish. It is commonly associated with Ptolemy’s Thana/Thoana and Thornia in Tabula Peutingeriana. The site’s total area is estimated at 55 hectares. It spreads over two neighbouring hills, with Wadi al-Hasa in between. Approximately 2 metres above the bottom of the valley runs via Nova Traiana. The architectural remains on the south eastern hill are more monumental, as they were probably used by traders and travellers. Buildings on the north western hill are more dispersed and smaller, as apparently they had residential use.

The site was visited and described by many travellers and scholars, e.g. Brünnow and Domaszewski, Musil, and Glueck. No extensive archaeological work has been done on Tuwaneh so far. As part of the Via Nova Traiana Project, only a field survey was conducted there, from March to May 1992. The survey, and particularly the pottery collected, indicates that Tuwaneh was built in the Roman-Byzantine period. Its development was fuelled by trade, as Tuwaneh was situated on the trade route between Syria and famous Petra, and so was visited by merchants and travellers. Large numbers of high quality pottery finds and the monumental architecture suggest that Tuwaneh was a rich city. The research done so far indicates that the fall of Tuwaneh took place in the late Byzantine period. The site might have been partially occupied in the Ayyubid and Mamluk periods as well, but practically no early Islamic pottery was found during the field survey. Furthermore, there is no mention of the city in Arabic sources, which may indicate that it had little significance then.

In 2018 season team of archaeologists from the Institute of Archaeology, Jagiellonian University and surveyors and surveying students from the Faculty of Mining Surveying and Environmental Engineering of the AGH – University of Science and Technology in Krakow conducted a week long survey at the site. Our primary goal was to start a mapping process as no architectural plan of the site exists to this date. To accomplish it we used a combination of 3D laser scanning, ultra-low altitude photogrammetry (ULAPh) and close- range photogrammetry. During our survey we were able to document a central part of the city, the neighbourhood of the so-called karavanserai and the structure itself. Moreover we documented almost 120 robbery pits. We hope to continue our work in the future to complete the plan and even start the excavation.

Fot. Maciej Bernaś

PROTECTION AND MANAGEMENT OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL HERITAGE IN JORDAN – RESEARCH PROJECT

Protection and management of archaeological heritage in Jordan was the research project which focused first on legislation and later on online databases. Dr Mariusz Drzewiecki created a list of all legal documents issued by Jordanian authorities throughout its history. The list consists of 144 records, including the foundation of the Jordanian Department of Antiquities issued in 1923. To assess the impact of online databases on archaeological research and heritage protection, Dr Mariusz Drzewiecki in cooperation with Dr Mahmoud Arinat launched a questionnaire survey among researchers and specialists working in Jordan. More than 100 people answered the questions presenting unique and interesting views on the subject. All were analyzed and results were published in Annual of the Jordanian Department of Antiquities and Levant: The Journal of the Council for British Research in the Levant.

During the winter and summer terms, Dr Mariusz Drzewiecki made workshops for students of archaeology and heritage management in Geographical Information Systems (GIS) for archaeologists and 3D modelling. Classes were practical in character, focusing on work with specialized open source software atthe Faculty Computer Lab. At the same time, Dr Drzewiecki was learning the Arabic language at University Language Center gaining two university certificates.

Fot. Mariusz Drzewiecki

ANCIENT CITY OF KAPITOLIAS – area occupies a square stone structure (“qasr”), RESEARCH OF THE THE POLISH in front of which lies a rectangular courtyard CENTRE OF MEDITERRANEAN with rows of arcades on the long sides. Initial ARCHAEOLOGY, UNIVERSITY OF research has shown that this complex, which in WARSAW IN BEIT RAS the Greco-Roman period undoubtedly functioned as a sanctuary of an unknown deity, Polish Centre Of Mediterranean Archaeology, arose from the combination of two University Of Warsaw initiated its differentiated elements: “qasr” from the late archaeological work in Jordan with fieldwork iron period and porticoes from the Roman or under the supervision of prof. Jolanta Late Roman period. Młynarczyk, which were conducted in years 2014-2016 at Beit Ras near Irbid. Prospection Source of the photography: PCMA UW was concentrated in the north-eastern part of the archives ancient city of Kapitolias (one of the cities of the Greek- Roman group of Decapolis), just west of the monumental theater from the 2nd century AD. Excavations allowed to reveal a section of the northern defense wall and expose its creation not later than in the second century AD. Analysis of stratigraphy and surface finds revealed a number of chronological phases in the use of this area, from the 1st / 2nd century BC until -12 / 13th century. Artifacts and the discovery of the wine cellar from the 6th-7th century proved that this part of Kapitolias was an economic district, at least in the Byzantine and early Islamic period. They also provided evidence of two-fold destruction: the devastation of a nearby church probably during the Persian invasion in 614, and the earthquake in 749 AD.

In 2018, the Center Polish Centre Of Mediterranean Archaeology, University Of Warsaw undertook research on the site of Khirbet es-Sar (Sara), under the direction of prof. Jolanta Młynarczyk and prof. Mariusz Burdajewicz. Khirbat es-Sar, located in the western suburb of present-day Amman on the road that once connected the ancient Rabbat Ammon with the Jordan Valley, was probably settled from the Iron Age to the late Middle Ages (at least from the 7th century BC to the 15th-16th centuries). The highest point of the 1 day, but then you have to pay for the visa. In Tourism any case, JP gives free entries to attractions from his list, which is important because, for BEFORE THE TRIP TO JORDAN example, a ticket to Petra is a big expense.

You can buy the Jordan Pass at www.jordanpass.jo

ACCOMMODATION IN SOUTHERN  see the Ministry of JORDAN Foreign Affairs’ information on security and travel around Jordan Accommodation base in southern  read the information about your diplomatic Jordan is limited to a few places and at this mission/embassy in Amman locations the tourist life of this region is  insure your travel focused. The most hotels, of course, are located  secure funds for your trip – the Jordanian in Wadi Musa, in the village directly adjacent to currency is DINAR (JOD) Petra’s Archaeological Park. Around Petra there  remember that when crossing the border are both luxury hotels and small hotels offering you must purchase a Jordanian visa – the a lower standard, but much more attractive cost is 40 JOD prices.  choose a convenient part of the year for your trip – spring (March-May) and autumn The second important place to look for (October-November) is the best time to visit accommodation for tourists visiting southern Jordan due to weather conditions. At that Jordan is the small town of Dana located in the time, however, you will meet a lot of Dana Nature Reserve, about 40 km north of tourists in Jordan. Petra. It is an old village inhabited by the Jordanians, and today almost entirely converted into a tourist settlement. There are several JORDAN PASS hotels with different standards. It is a place much calmer than Wadi Musa, offering tourists unforgettable experiences associated with communing with nature. Deprivations of comfort are quickly compensated for by the amazing mountain landscapes and the view of the majestic valley.

Jordan Pass is a kind of a travel pass intended by the Jordanian authorities for tourists visiting Jordan. You must buy it online before arriving in Jordan, print it or have it on your phone (it contains a QR code). However, it is best to have JP in a paper form. The pass is for people who stay in Jordan for a minimum of 3 nights / 4 days (the dates of the border stamps are decisive). Only then Jordan Pass gives the visa to Jordan for free (and in principle, it is included in the price of JP). Of course you can buy JP for

CLIMBING SPORTS IN SOUTHERN JORDAN

Like most other dry and semi-arid areas, the areas of Southern Jordan abound in visible rocks. Along the rim of the Dead Sea and in some valleys leading to the east, walls and cliffs have been formed towards the desert. These formations are usually accompanied by numerous boulders (big separated rocks).

The geological history caused that the discussed area is dominated by carbonate rocks (mainly limestones, less frequently dolomites, marls and chalk) and sandstones. Definitely less often you can come across formations made of conglomerates, basaltoids or granitoids. When planning a trip or climbing exploration, it should be remembered that these rocks are constantly subject to intensive erosion. It is both mechanical and chemical erosion caused by wind, water and anthropic factors. Their visual effect is a parish, but also an interesting and picturesque relief of rock surfaces: columns, radiators, nooks, holes, scratches, chimneys, etc. You can also find speleothems.

This intriguing and promising picture changes slightly when we are trying to climb. Both the placement of belay points, as well as the use of tricks turns out to be difficult and often risky. The seemingly permanent elements of the rock sculpture are easily detached, chipped or covered with a layer of loose weathered wood. This does not prevent completely climbing, but significantly hinders her psychologically and increases the risk of injury. It should be added to the presence of flora and fauna inhabiting rock walls. Xerothermic, spiky, hard plants do are located only in Amman (exactly two stores). not move at all, in contrast to hornets sometimes You can buy equipment in a similar quality as in nests in noodles or crevasses. Other animals are Europe, but in a very limited range and not the rare and should not be a problem – you can find lowest prices (they are also not very high). here omnivorous snakes, skittish lizards or birds. To sum up, the areas of southern Jordan create considerable, potential climbing opportunities So far, Jordan’s climbing areas have been found for both those interested in easy (even “family”) in the north of the country (262 roads in total), roads, as well as for those looking for bigger and in Wadi Rum (43 roads). The few roads in sports challenges. For now, however, you still the region are scattered here and there in the need to take into account the rudimentary terrain south of the country (in total, about 60 roads conditions, the risky aggregate and the necessity have been described between Kerak and of your own belaying. Only the intensification Aqaba). Nevertheless, there are a number of of sports and tourist traffic, preparation places that give a lot of opportunities to lead (including clearing and insurance) of more new rock lines. These include, among others, climbing routes and planned by the Polish team the area around the village of Dana (limestones, to create a guide-climbing map will make this basaltoids), the region of the so-called Little area another attraction worth visiting. Petra (sandstones), or Wadi Ghuweir (limestones, sandstones, possibly conglomerates). The rock formations located there provide potential opportunities for roads of 5-35 m in length and with difficulties from grade I (UIAA) to at least VIII (UIAA; 6c / 7a – French).

A slight interest in sports and recreation in southern Jordan together with the mentioned natural factors means that regardless of the location of the region, the rock is very fragile (with few exceptions). Even several existing climbing guides (difficult to call them as guides) and internet sources suggest that the proposed road valuation should always be increased by one degree. The morphology of the rock formations is constantly changing, the belaying must be very careful and thoughtful, and most of the lines proposed so far do not have permanent insurance.

It was only recently (in 2018) that the first organization (federation) of climbing and trekking appeared in Jordan. It associates guides and climbers and people who practice other forms of outdooring (mountaneering, canyoning, hiking, MTB). You can probably use the services of members associated in this group, but the offer is not large – it will be limited to advising and possibly bringing you to the climbing area. Climbing equipment stores Come and experience sleeping under the stars from the comfort and delights of a uniquely designed and deluxe bubble tent.

Petra Bubble Hotel has 20 bubble suites each either it’s own private Hot Tub and sun deck, perfect for relaxing and unwinding after a day exploring the surrounding area. As the sun sets over the mountains you can sit back and take in nature’s spectacular show. You will wish your stay would never end. This is the ultimate in glamping and the chance to relive your childhood dreams of sleeping under the star with the luxury touches that make this a night you will never forget.

TOURIST CURIOSITIES OF SOUTHERN JORDAN

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the screen scales so that they are comfortable About guide to receive for the user.

The most important questions that you will answer with the help of the guidebook:

– What does the southern Jordan look like? Dear visitors! – What is worth visiting and what is worth You are entering, the first, professional, digital paying special attention to? guide to Southern Jordan! We have prepared it to offer you a journey through an extraordinary – What can surprise us with the nature of the region, full of archaeological treasures and region and how to admire it? breathtaking landscapes. A region where you will meet hospitable and smiling residents, and – What does the tourist base of the region look through their stories you will have opportunity like? to explore the traditions and history of Southern Jordan. – What research do Polish scientists conduct in Jordan? Our guide is also the only comprehensive website dedicated to Polish scientific research CONTACT US: conducted in Jordan. On the following pages [email protected] you will find information about the history of Polish scientific presence in this region and The authors of the texts and photographs: information about currently conducted excavations and other research projects. Piotr Kołodziejczyk (Euclid Foundation, Jagiellonian University) Thanks to the cooperation of Polish experts Michał Wasilewski (Euclid Foundation, conducting research in the area of Jordan, we Jagiellonian University) have managed to gather a huge amount of Katarzyna Radziwiłko (Polish Centre of information that will allow you to make an Mediterranean Archaeology, University of extraordinary journey in time and space. On our Warsaw) pages you will meet not only scientists Przemysław Nocuń (Jagiellonian University) discovering the ancient secrets and analyzing Marcin Czarnowicz (Jagiellonian University) the environment of this fascinating region, but Jacek Karmowski (Jagiellonian University) also find out which places are worth visiting and Barbara Witkowska (Jagiellonian University) how to look for the exceptional treasures of Jolanta Młynarczyk (Polish Centre of Jordanian nature. Thanks to the following Mediterranean Archaeology, University of guidebook, you will also get some touristic Warsaw) information – where to stay for rest and where Kamil Kopij (Euclid Foundation, Jagiellonian to seek for help in the emergency situations. University) Łukasz Miszk (Euclid Foundation, Jagiellonian The guide has been made in University) responsive technology so Maciej Maciej Bernaś (AGH University of you can use it on all types of Science and Technology) devices, including tablets Diana Pokrzywa (Jagiellonian University) and smartphones, because Mariusz Drzewiecki (Polish Centre of its layout automatically adapts to the screen Mediterranean Archaeology, University of size of your device. The content displayed on Warsaw).