COTTON MILL HAN DBOOK

FOR SUPERINTENDENTS AN D OV ERSEERS IN C OTTON YARN AN D C LOTH MI LLS

TE X TI L E WORL D

B RAGD L RD AN D AGLE MPA I NC C Y . ON . O N O N ,

Pu blish er s

334 F U RTH AV EN U E N EW Y RK U S A . O , O . . .

FO REWO RD

This book has been c ompiled for th o se engaged in cotton yarn and cloth manufacturing, and is intended to aid them in solving mill problems and making the necessary

n . yar , cloth and machinery calculations Part I is devoted

o f to methods yarn numbering, yarn and cloth calcula

tions , and humidity in cotton manufacturing . Part II gives answers to over one hundred manufacturing prob

lems that have been solved for cotton mill men and

printed o n the ! uestions and Answers page of TEXTILE

WORLD . Part III takes up the causes of defects in

s yarn, and give useful rules and tables on production and A machinery calculations . carefully prepared index fol lowing Part III enables quick reference to be made to

the various subjects .

TEXTILE WORLD

B C o . I N G G C . RA DON, LORD NA LE , Publishers

COTTON MILL HANDBOOK TEXT I L E WORL D HAN DBOOK SERIES

PART I

SI! ES OF YARNS — NUM B ERING f e The sizes o yarns are designat d by the terms count, f s . o cut, run, hank , kein , dram, grain , etc , all which are

i. e . based upon two elementary principles ; , weight and length . E ach term represents a certain length of yarn for a fixed weight , or vice versa ; but unfortunately there are different standards of weights and measures , which result in a great deal of confusion , although this h e is less in the cotton industry than in others . T largest variety o f terms is found in the woolen industry . In the

we i . n United States have woolen cut, run, gra n, etc whe h e all may be reduc ed to a common basis . T r e is no doubt that the adoption of an international standard s would benefit the textile indu try , but which standard to adopt is a question on which manufacturers disagree . It is necessary to familiari z e oneself with the standard numbers of the various yarns ; also , as in the case of ff e woolen yarns , where di erent standard numbers are us d for the various terms , it is well to be familiar with the o f m e standard number each ter , as by this means a gr at f deal o c onfusion will be avoided . T able of Rel ative C ounts o f Y ar n Y a m Size S ta ndar d N a mber 1 Cotton N o . count 84 0 yards per pound

Woolen No . 1 run 1 600 yards per pound

Woolen No . 1 cut 300 yards per pound

I 1 I 2 Woolen N o . skein 56 yards per pound 1 I 5 Worsted No . count 60 yards per pound Linen N 0 1 lea I 30 0 yards per pound

I Spun Silk N O 1 count I 84 0 yards per pound n Such fibres as line , jute, hemp and ramie fibre are fi o f 300 t usually gured by the lea yards o the pound . In the grain system the weight in grains o f 2 0 yards

. 2 0 designates the counts Thus , if yards weigh or 30 2 s N . 0 2 o . 5 r grains , the count would be , No o No . 30 i gra n yarn, respectively . 6 TEXTILE WORLD

Y ARN TAB LE

Y ar ds Per Po und f or Difi er ent N umber s of C otton Y ar n Yards per Cotton Pound Counts 84 0 38 89 4 0 4 1 4 2 4 8 4 4 4 5 4 6 4 7 4 8 4 9 50 51 52 53 54 55 56

58 59 60 61 62 68 64 65 66

68 69 7 0 71 7 2 78 74 COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 7

The Avoirdupo is table should be committed to memory, as it is used very extensively in textile calculations .

Avoirdupois Weight

l l o z . grains gr . ) ounce ( ( )

I drams (dr . ) I ounce

I grains I pound (U1 ) ounc es I pound

I pounds I hundredweight I hundredweight ton (t .

C otton C ount s

84 0 Cotto n is based upon the hank of yards , and the number of such hanks which weigh o ne pound denotes the counts . 1 84 0 1 N o . cotton yards in pound N 2 1 o . cotton yards in pound 3 1 N o . cotton yards in pound If it should be found that yards of a cotton yarn weighed 1 pound there would be 84 0 8 nk ha s , and the counts o f the yarn would be 3 s . Therefore the following rule may be used :

TO FIND TH E C OU NT S OF A C OTTON Y ARN WHEN TH E LENGTH AND WEIGHT ARE K NOWN :

Rule . 84 0 Divide the length by the standard , , which nks nk gives the ha ; divide ha s by weight in pounds , which gives counts .

E xamp les

o f 1 1b . fi nd If yards cotton yarn weigh , the counts . 84 0 20 1 . 2 hanks lb 0s counts .

o f 5 If yards cotton yarn weigh pounds, what are the counts ?

— 84 0 4 0 5 lb 4: 8 e hanks s . s counts . 8 TEXTILE WORLD

If 80 bundles of yarn each contain yards and

2 0 n s . weigh pou ds in all, find the cotton count X 80 yards 84 0 2 00 hanks 2 00 2 0 1 0s counts

I 4 2 0 a f a warper beam contains ~ ends , y rds 600 a r e n long , and weighs pounds net, what the cotto counts ? X 42 0 yards 84 0 hanks 600 ‘ 1 5s counts

CLOTH CALCULATIONS

The following calculatio ns o n cloth are from a series compiled by Thomas Yates o f the N ew Bedford Textile N ew s his School, Bedf ord , Mas and are taken from book “ , c ” T Yarn and Cloth Cal ulations . hey will prove very helpful to practical mill men . I n e t dealing with cloth calculations , it may be b s to explain the necessity f or the r ules that are given later . As is is a well known, cloth m de by interlacing warp and th a filling threads . When e threads cross e ch other they ar e or s li bent more les out of a straight ne, a fact that causes the cloth to contract both in width and length . f r n diff Thus the rate per cent . o contraction will va y o er F r e s s. o ent cloth con truction this reason, re ds of a lower u f count than the required co nt o the cloth must be used , making the cloth wider at the reed than on the roller . The on length of a cut must be made longer _ the slasher than

o f n . the required length _ the cut whe woven The threads o f single warp must be sized before they so can be woven, and this adds to the weight, that size and contraction are factors to be considered in all cloth calculations . The principal particulars of a plain cloth are the of f in ne number threads o warp and filling o inch, the o f hi width the cloth when woven and the weight, w ch is designated as so many yards per pound . The number COTTON MILL HANDBOOK

of warp threads per inch is known as the sley, and the

filling threads as the picks , and when speaking of a cloth construction, the sley is invariably put first . A cloth that contains 56 warp threads and 60 filling threads per inch would be classed as a 56 x 60 cloth . Warp threads are commonly known as ends , and this term will be used in all the calculations . TO FIND THE NU MB ER OF END S RE ! U IRED IN A WARP WHEN THE SLE Y AND WID TH ARE GIV EN :

Ru le . Multiply the sley by the width and add extra ends for the selvages . Selvages are made by drawing some of the ends on the sides double, the number so doubled depending on the width o f selvage desired . Extra ends must be added to e . On ke p the cloth at the required width heavy cloths , ply yarn is sometimes used for the selvage ends .

E xamp les ‘ 56 How many ends are required to weave a cloth sley, 36 24 ? inches wide, with ends extra for selvages 8 4 56 X 6 2 ends . H ow many ends will be required to weave a cloth 7 6 s 30 l 3 6 ley, inches wide al owing ends for selvages ? 7 6 30 36 X ends .

s In the proce s of weaving, the warp and filling threads o r o ut are bent more less of a straight line, causing the c loth to contract in both length and width . When the sley and picks are equal and the warp and filling of the same counts, the contraction will be nearly equal in length and width . When the sley is higher than the picks the contraction in width will be less than if the picks were

. fil higher than the sley If coarse ling is used, the con c fin e i e tra tion in width will be less than if filling s us d , more especially if the coarse filling is slack twisted . o f 50 A plain cloth ordinary construction, about sley

7 . and pick, will contract about per cent , while a cloth 1 00 6 sley and pick will contract about per cent . When t warp stop motions are used , the warp has o be held at a greater tension o n account o f the drop wires and this 0 TEXTILE WORLD extra tension causes the cloth to contract from 1 to 2 per 8 . 9 . cent more, or from to per cent There are two methods used for finding the dents per inch in a reed for a given sley cloth . One is to estimate how much a cloth will contract and make it that much a nd wider in the reed , and from the sley required the estimated width at the reed find the dents per inch required in the reed . Another method is to make a calculation from the sley of the cloth required and use a ru le that gives a sliding

o f r . rate contraction which dec eases as the, sley increases

B the - a y first method, _long pr ctice and experience is ' absolutely necessary to estimate correctly the amou nt to n allow for co traction, while the second method may be used by th ose less experienced .

‘ To illustrate the ” first method for finding the count o f the 1 0 0 4 0 ‘ reed, suppose a cloth sley, inches Wide is required . It would take

1 00 4 0 n 2 2 000 e . X e ds , d nts The is t m of o e _ next thing to estima e the a ount c ntra i o tion, which, under ord nary c onditi ns would be about

’ ‘

n inc h es in . inches , maki g the ends the reed = 2 0 0 2 . h 0 4 50 4 7 . 05 , dents dents per inc 4 or a 7 dent reed .

If this cloth were Woven On a loom equipped with a

‘

s , be o ne warp top motion, the width at the reed might inch more o r inches ; then ~ dents dents p er inch

o r a 4 6 dent reed . The width o f cotton cloth is seldom changed in the s of hi hi hi proce s finis ng, w le worsted and woolens w ch pass and hi through fulling was ng processes _ may change in f a s width considerably . Thus the finishing o the cloth, as the a n c onsider atiOIi well we ve, must be taken i to in ' ‘ For finding the reed f oi worsted s or woolen cloths . these n i t reaso s , the above method s well suited o the woolen trade .

' The sec ond metho d f or finding the reed is to find the dents per inch from the sley o f the cloth by r ules that e give a sliding rate per cent . of contraction which decreas s a ne : s the sley increases . O of these rules is as follows COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 1

TO FIND TH E DENT S PE R INCH FOR ANY SLEY CLOTH :

e 1 Rul . Subtract from the sley ; from the result sub tract 5 per cent . ; divide this result by the number of ends per dent and answer is dents per inch required .

E xamples Find the dents per inch in a I eed to weave a 4 8 sley

2 . cloth, the ends to be drawn in a dent 9 4 8 1 4 7 X . 5

2 dents per inch required . 9 . 5. 5 . To subtract per cent , multiply by 4 8 If no contraction took place, a reed for a sley cloth would require 24 dents per inch ; the rate per cent . for contraction allowed by the rule given is 7 per cent .

24 dents less .

24 . 07 o r 7 % Find the dents per inch in a reed to weave a 96 sley 2 cloth , ends drawn in a dent . 95 9 6 1 95 x .

2 dents per inch .

4 8 nec es If no contraction took place, dents would be

r . s sary, but by the rule dents, o 6 per cent le s, are required .

4 8 dents les s .

4 8 . 06 o r 6% The explanation o f this rule is as follows : One deducted from a ny given number gives a higher per cent . reduction than the same amount taken from hi any higher number . T s is where the varying rate o f F is . contraction obtained by the rule ive per cent . is

e as r . then d ducted in every instance, per ule TO FIND TH E SLEY CLOTH A REED WILL WEAV E WHE N LENGTH AND TO TAL DENT S IN THE REED ARE K NOWN :

Ru e l . Divide the total dents by the length of the reed inside the reed bar s ; the result is dents per inch ; multiply n 95 dents per inch by e ds per dent ; divide the result by .

and to this result add 1 . 1 2 TEXTILE WORLD

E xamples What sley cloth will a reed weave that contains

o n 3 6 2 . dents inches, the ends drawn in a dent ?

- 36 30 dents per inch . 30 2 60 x ends per inch in reed . 0 9 6 . 5 1 4 6 sley cloth .

c If a reed contains dents per in h , what sley cloth will it weave if the ends are drawn 3 in a dent ? 3 h X ends er inch in t e reed . 9 = 3 . 5 6 . 0 6 9 3 . 4 7 1 + f1 7 sley cloth .

Bars a quarter o f an inch wide are put in the ends o f the reed to protect them from damage ; they a ls o serve to o n m f have marked the the number o dents , the length ' o f le f the reed, and the s y o the cloth it would weave with “ the ends drawn 2 in a dent . d f nt and Looms are made in if ere widths , are generally known by the full width o f cloth that can be woven o n them . A loom that will weave cloth 4 0 inches wide is d 4 0 - a a style a inch loom, while a loom th t will we ve a - nl 30 i 30 . cloth o y inches wide s styled a inch loom, etc

‘ Allowance is made for contraction in the width of the

— so 4 0 - bo 4 4 cloth, that a inch loom is made with a ut inches o f a 30 - reed sp ce, while a inch loom would hold a reed 34 about inches long . i Sometimes the orders f o r narro w cloths exceed the p os l o f o f W so sib e production the looms the correct idth , that it i s necessary to use the wider looms to weav e it . When a cloth i s woven that requires the full width o f is m o n the loom, the reed ade to fill the reed space the i n . o loom When narrow cloth s woven o a wide l om, the reed i s usually made about an inch longer than is a ctually f or s o n required the warp end , and the reed space the loom filled in with sh or t piec es o f o ld reeds ; n Selvage ends sometimes spri g the dents in the reed , causing the ends to break . If some extra length is allowed ma on the reed , the selvage ends y be drawn in some other is n is dents when a new warp draw , whereas if the reed only the exact length a new reed would be required . A method for finding the number of dents and length o f u o n ac the reed, also the n mber of harness eyes e h harness shaft will be explained by examples . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 3

E xamp le s

f e ee Find the number o dents , the l ngth of the r d , and the number o f eyes per shade on the harness to weave a

64 sley cloth in a loom with 4 0 inches reed space . 95 2 64 1 63 X . dents per inch in the reed and eyes per inch on ea ch shade

2 e . of the harness , shad s per set 4 0 inches reed space less a half inch for reed bars equals inches . X dents on inches and eyes on each shade of the harnes s ; the reed will measure 4 0 inches with the reed bars .

o f If the harness is made double shade , the number eyes per shade would be o ne-half the number of dents in the reed .

Find the number of dents in the reed and harness eyes 5 required o n each shaft to weave a end warp sateen, 1 1 4 4 0 sley, inches wide, allowing a half inch extra width on harness and reed . 1 1 4 X 4 0 ends 5 ends per dent 91 2 dents required 95 5 1 1 4 1 1 1 3 X . dents per inch in the reed . 91 2 inches space that 91 2 dents will occupy in the reed . 5 f . 0 o r extra width inches length of 7 reed inside reed bars . 4 2 . 97 X 21 . 4 923 dents on

4 2 . 97 inches ; add a half inch for reed bars and the reed 4 7 . will measure 4 3 . inches over all The harness will 4 97 s 923 2 . 5 require eyes per shade on inche , shades in the set . When making a calculation to find the weight of filling i o f I n in a given length of cloth , the w dth the warp ends o f the reed must be taken as the length the filling pick, n t f and o the actual width o the cloth .

TO FIND TH E WID TH OF TH E WARP END S IN THE REED : R ul e . Divide the total number o f ends in the warp o f i by the number ends in a dent, wh ch gives the dents required if all the ends were drawn 2 in a dent ; subtr act 1 4 TEXTI LE WORLD as many dents as are to contain double ends in the ivas selvages, which g dents that actually contain ends ; divide by the dents per inch in the reed, which gives the at width the reed .

E am e x pl . Find the width in the reed of a 64 sley 36 ' cloth , inches wide when woven, the ends to be drawn 2 d 4 8 1 2 in a ent with extra ends in dents f or selvages . 64 3 6 4 8 X ends . -e 2 dents required if all dents 2 contained ends .

4 8 of to be 4 r the are used in a dent, thus the e 1 2 e will be 6 d nts that contain warp ends . 3 95 64 1 6 X . 2 dents 64 per inch in a sley reed . dents used inches Wide at

the reed .

TO FIND THE WEIGHT OF FI LL I N G I N A GIV EN LENGTH OF CLO TH :

Rule. Multiply the width at the reed by the picks per inch ; result eq!uals inches of filling in 1 inch o f f 1 of cloth, it also equals the yards o filling in yard cloth ;

! o f multiply by length cloth in yards, which gives total o f re e 84 0 h yards filling requi d ; divid by , equals anks ;

”

v u w . di ide hanks by counts, eq als eight in pounds (T h e width at the reed multiplied by the picks per e of l 1 o f inch equals the inch s fi ling in inch cloth, which, divided by 36 equals the yards of filling in 1 inch of the T o f l f woven cloth . obtain the yards o fil ing in 1 yard o 36 e is the cloth , multiply by and the r sult same in yards o f filling in 1 yard of cloth a s the inches in 1 inch o f e m cloth, thus they will canc l and are o itted in the rule . )

E xamples

Find the weight of filling I n 50 yards of cloth woven with 7 2 picks o f 60 8 filling and inches wide at the reed . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 5

7 2 1 o f X inches of filling in inch cloth, also the yards in 1 yard o f cloth . X 50 yards of filling in 50 yards of cloth .

84 0 hanks .

60s lbs . of filling .

64 68 36 If a cotton cloth is woven X inches wide , 2 with 4 8 ends extra in 1 dents for selvages , what weight of 4 5s filling would be required to weave 1 00 yards of cloth ?

64 X 36 4 8 ends .

2 6 1 2 dents used . 9 2 er 64 1 63 X . 5 dents p inch . inches wide at reed or length o f each pick o f filling . X 68 X 1 00 yards of filling in 1 00 yards o f cloth .

84 0 hanks .

4 5s filling lbs . filling required .

TO FIND TH E WEIGHT OF FILLING OF EACH

COLOR in a checked gingham . when the picks of each d color in the pattern , picks per inch , width at ree , and counts o f filling are known

Rul e . Multiply the width at reed by the picks per inch and this result by the cloth length, result equals total of 84 0 hi nk yards filling required ; divide by , w ch gives ha s ;

lbs . divide hanks by counts, which gives Divide the picks of each color in the pattern by the total picks per o f pattern and r esult equals the per cent . of eac h color filling ; multiply the total weight of filling in the cloth

he . o f es length by t per cent each color, which giv the e o f weight requir d each color . E xample . If a chec ked gingham is woven 30 inches e 68 35s f at the re d , with picks of filling, what weight o each color of filling will it require to weave 1 0 0 yards o f ? cloth, with the following pattern 1 6 TEXTILE WORLD

4 0 picks white 1 2 picks blue 8 picks black 6 picks yellow

r 66 picks total in the patte n .

4 0 66 61 o r 61 % white filling 1 2 66 or 1 8% blue filling 8 66 1 2 or 1 2 % black filling 6 66 09 o r 9 % yellow filling

4 . X 68 X 1 00 8 0 X 35 lbs . total weight

0 l . 6 . 93 X 61 7 bs white

9 1 0 . 6 . 3 X 87 lbs blue X 1 2 % lbs . black 9 X % lbs . yellow

lbs .

To FIND T H E WEIGHT OF FILLING RE ! U IRED

‘ F OR A GIV EN LENGTH OF CLOTH when two difi er ent counts are used :

: Rule . Multiply the width at the reed by the picks per l s inch and the result by the cloth ength, result equal the o f e 84 0 total yards filling r quired ; divide by , equals total u of - f hanks . Divide the n mber picks of each counts o filling in o ne repeat o f the pattern by the total picks per th f . e . o pattern , result equals per cent length of each count nk W h s Multiply the total ha s by the per cent , hic give n i hanks of each count ; divide ha ks by counts, wh ch gives f the required weight o each count .

e E xampl . Find the weight of each count Of fi lling req uired to weave 1 00 yards o f cloth (filling welt pattern ) woven 3 0 inches at the reed with 1 2 picks o f 60 8 filling f o r 4 o f l 0 s l r face, picks fil ing for wadding per patte n, and 1 24 picks per inch . 30 1 24 1 00 84 0 X X total hanks . 2 1 6 5 r 75 1 picks face picks per patt . 7 o % o f 0 in length the 6 8 .

4 1 6 25 r 25 . o picks wadding picks per patt . % f 0 in length o the 1 8 .

1 8 TEXTILE WORLD

When a cloth is made where the construction is such 4 tha t the contraction would be more than ordinary, may o r to e be used as a multiplier , if there is reason exp ct

a 3 . less rate of contraction , may be used , etc n a c o f f c ou s O f ncy loths , yarns dif erence nt are often used ; ply yarns are also used either for backing, as in o r s bedford cords , for figured work, a on lenos and lappets . c When making new patterns on su h cloths , there is no rule by which the length o f yarn required to weave a of so given length cloth can be obtained , that samples ” must be woven and the lengths and weights obtained in that wa y . When it is desired to reproduce a cloth from a small c to six e o r sample, a pie e from three inch s , more less , m a is a nd as y be obtainable, taken a warp end removed o ut from each distinct weave, straightened , and compared with the length o f the cloth ; from the difference in the s o f of the o t length the end and cl th the per cent . o allow J th e n for contraction on cloth length may be obtai ed .

To FIND TH E PE R CE N T T O ALLOW FOR C ON TRAC TION FROM A CLO TH SAMPLE

Ru e. out o f l Pull a warp end the cloth sample, straighten it ou t and measure it ; divide th e difference between the lengths of the end and the cloth by the length o f the cloth ; the result gives the per cent . to allow for contraction o n the cloth length .

E x amples

“ f I c e o f c lo th 3 n If an . end rom a p e i ches long measures

. to inches , what is the per cent allow for contraction o n ? the cloth I

— 2 i f o f 3 . 5 d f erence in length the end

and the cloth .

2 8 3 0 . . 5 3 Or 7 contraction

If an end from a piece o f leno cloth 4 inches long f to 6 . o measures inches , what is the per cent contraction allow on the cloth ?

ifi er en c e 6 4 2 inches d .

0 r 50 . 2 4 . 5 o % contraction COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 9

It will be clear that if 4 inches o f cloth require 6 f f inches o yarn , the dif erence in the lengths of the yarn and the cloth is half the length of the cloth or If an end from a piec e o f cloth 4 inches long measures o f inches, what length yarn must be run on the slasher to obtain a cut o f cloth 60 yards long ?

50 f o f 4 . dif erence in length the end

and the cloth .

2 . 50 4 . 1 r . 5 o contraction

60 yards X yards . 60 yards of yarn required on slasher

to weave a 60 yard cut .

TO FIND WEIGHT OF WARP Y ARN IN A GIV EN LENGTH OF CLOTH

ul R e. Multiply the ends of each count by the slasher 84 0 length, result equals yards of warp ; divide by , which k gives hanks ; divide han s by warp counts , which gives weight . If the weight when sized is desired , add from 5 to a ccording to the amount o f siz e to be put o n the yarn . Ply yarns , generally speaking, do not require

SI ze . E xamples

is 68 36 If a cotton cloth constructed sley, inches wide, 4 0 es f with ends extra added for selvag , what weight o 368 50 f warp yarn would be contained in yards o cloth ,

5 . 7 f r allowing per cent for contraction and per cent . o size ? 68 36 4 0 X ends . 50 5 yds . X % yards .

50 . yds yards slasher length .

X total yards warp . 84 0 hanks . — 368 lbs . 5 without size .

lbs . 7 . 3 X % size 0 lbs. 30 l . bs . o f weight warp with size added .

a When the cloth contains ply y rns, the count o f the is e f or 1 0 single yarn consider d ; as example, 0 ends of as 2 00 4 would be calculated ends o f 08 . 2 0 TEXTILE WORLD

When the ends in o ne part of the cloth vary from o f another part, either in counts or in the rate contraction, they must be put on separate beams .

If a cloth is woven with ends o f 4 OS with 5 per ‘ 7 2 00 2/1 5s cent . contraction, and per cent . size, ends of , 350 3 2 0 8 1 5 . / with per cent contraction , and ends of , with f 25 . a w o per cent contraction , wh t eight “warp yarn will be required to weave 1 00 yards o f cloth !

X 1 05 yards 84 0 hanks .

4 0 . 8 lbs . size lbs

weight of the 4 0 8 yarn .

“ 2 4 00 X 2 X 1 1 5 yards 8 0 hanks . l 6 . . 6 1 58 3 . 5 bs o f 1 5s yarn _ 850 X 8 x 1 25 yards 84 0

hanks . ’ 2 o lbs f 2 s . o os. yarn.

7 . 81 lbs . . - total weight

TESTING YARN FOR C OU NTS

In estimating the unknown counts of yarn from a given sample f or quotation purposes it is essential to take pains

ri e . A o f to ar ve at a correct r sult . number methods are “ o r er s o f available, but in all cases the reliability oth wi e the results depends to a gr eat extent upon the degree o f i o f skill exercised in making the tests . If a large p ece 1 8 cloth available in the unfinished state, a good method is

to a sa 30 . cut number of threads, y in long, although other lengths will serve, and after weighing them u s l accurately, obtain the co nt by calcu ation from the f n weight o the measured le gth . Fo r l smal patterns a small yarn balance is available, and with this system the threa ds are cut into short lengths o f to the size of a templet . The number such threads required to make a balance indicates the counts . In other m to e cases where s all patterns have be test d , a number o f threads are cut to a predetermined length and weighed r against a fixed weight, the number of threads equired again indicating the counts . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 21

G ood judgment is required to determine when it is quite safe to use the system of weighing , as in the case u n of finished cloths particularly, and sometimes with

finished cloths , the results are liable to be vitiated by the presence o f an uncertain quantity of filling or weighting . The only alternative in such c a ses is to wash out all impurities , and even then some little doubt arises as to whether all the weighting has been washed away, or if that is made certain by a very vigorous scouring , whether or not some fibres have been removed .

Actual mill practice varies considerably . In some cases one o r other of the weighing tests is made to serve , and such methods have at least the advantage of being fairly a quick . In other c ses , the counts is first obtained by twisting the unknown yarn , against yarn of a known

i . count, and the result ver fied by weighing In other cases the counts of the unknown yarn is determined solely

. w by twisting it with similar yarn of a kno n count . A

SI M PLE M ETH OD OF TE STIN G Y ARN FOR C OU NTS

is great aid towards securing reliable results , to test the n a o f unk own yarns gainst yarns similar count, taken hi from cloths w ch agree in respect of color, weave, number

. Fo r hi of picks per inch , style of finish, etc t s purpose , . it is strongly recommended that a c ollection of finished and unfi nished cloths made from yarns of known counts should be kept at hand . The collection should cover as c a wide a range as possible , so that in all ses unknown yarns may be compared with kn own yarns of like char acter . The actual procedure is as follows :Prejudgin g that the 32 8 f unknown count is about , say, , that number o threads is k 2 abstracted from the un nown cloth . Then 3 threads of 32 8 of the same color and finish are taken from a known cloth . The two sets o f threads are then lin ked together as shown in the diagram herewith , where A represents the known counts and B represents the un 22 TEXTILE WORLD

known counts . The two sets of threads are twisted fairly tightly and as uniformly as possible . Threads of the unknown counts are added or removed until it is adjudged ‘ f n . o that the two are equal in thick ess If , the number threa ds taken o f the known counts equals the counts in set o f number, then the number of threads in the threads of the unknown counts equal the counts o f the threads in f . e o f o the sample If , howev r, the number threads the kn own counts taken for some r ea son does n:ot equal the counts , then the following rule must be used

B r Strands of yarn in _ X known counts St ands f o yarn in A counts of unkno wn yarn .

Other useful ru les for use when estimating the counts o f o f

cotton yarns and only , short lengths yarn are l a s s : avai able, are follow X number o f inches that weigh 1 grain

c ounts .

—

5 ” 3 4 1 8 n o f 4 2 . lO The number threads each in o r in . g that weigh 1 grain counts 8% X number o f yards weighed Weight in grains

counts . Number of yards weighed X weight in

‘ A quick method o f \ ascertaining the counts of cotton on c o or bobbin is six u u l fi , yarn a p to wrap v t rns eq a ling

9 . a nd f h yds , divide the weight in grains o t is length into 75. Thus : 7 n 9 5 Weight in grai s of yds. counts .

This length (9 yds . ) might be taken a s a s tandard length i e an methbd o f t for wrapping, and prov d s easy ascer ain in i no g the counts, though there s reason why any other ul suitable length sho d not be taken, and a constant found by calculation for that length a s follows :Suppose the i 1 0 r d s o 1 5 s . length most suitable wraps y , then 1 5 84 0 1 25 X , = hi is hi and t s number the constant numerator, w ch, if di e w n o f n vid d by the eight in grai s the standard le gths , s — gives the count Textile Manufacturer Year Book . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 23

H UM IDITY IN COTTON M ANUFACTURING

In the following paragraphs the Parks - Cramer C o m

F s . C . pany, itchburg , Mas , and Charlotte, N , have given a clear explanation o f the important place that humidity

occupies in cotton manufacturing, with specific advice on i f the humidity conditions suitable for d f erent processes .

Regain An apt term to designate the amount of moisture in the ” fibre is Regain . It means the amount, expressed in o f percentage, moisture in the fibre, based on its dry

weight .

For 1 00 f instance, if pounds o cotton fibre in a bone dry state were placed in an atmosphere where its weight n 1 07 fi ally increased to pounds, its moisture condition would be represented by 7 regain . The atmosphere that produced this gain would be s aid to be a 7 % cotton regain atmosphere o r 7 R . R eferring specifically to cotton manufacturing, the raw stock is ordinarily taken from the warehouse and the bale opened , at which point the fibre contains an amount n o f of moisture dependi g upon the season the year, the temperature at which it has been stored, and various other factors . In general it contains more moisture than it should have in order to clean well . Many tests have shown this initial moisture to approximate to 1 1 %

R. of In the fall the year, the green cotton , as taken WI ll from the field, and ginned, frequently run as high as 1 2 1 3 R % or % ; during the hot summer months , the end o f l the o d crop will occasionally run as low as R .

R. An average condition, however is about

M anuf ac turing

i th es The first operation s opening, to get e fibr loose and to put the cott on into good condition, preparatory to p assing it through the successive stages o f picking in n the breaker, i termediate and finisher lapper, where the cotton is cleaned of its larger pieces of leaf, motes, seeds 24 TEXTILE WORLD

and dirt, and issues from the finisher lapper with a definite weight ready for the card .

Consequently, in the opening room , the temperature should be adapted to good physical working conditions , is and when using white raw stock , no humidity advisable

I n . mi this room In using dyed raw stock , some hu dity will possibly be advantageous : to compensate f o r the extreme drying o u t that th e fibre h as undergone in the dryers . the Normally, in opening process and up to the time t e fi nishér th e that the cotton goes from h lapper, moisture

m l to i R content wil have fallen approx mately , this reduction in moisture being due p robably to some extent ' to rm efi ec t b th e - the fa ing given it y fast moving beaters .

C ar ding

From the finishing lapper it — comes to the c ard pri marily “ “ for the purpose o f straightening the fibres and the final “ “ tu cleaning, and to meet both requirements, the mois re “ content should be rather low . This will reduce the

o r s a . tendency to curl twi t at this st ge ' ‘ The most desirable regain will vary considerably with th e o f s length the staple, the cleanline s of the cotton, n w . O and other features ell u derstood rdinarily, however, a moisture content o f approximately to 6% R will in t e e be found beneficial h carding, and this repr sents comparatively little humidity . In the winter time and during the raw and windy days of early spring humidity will frequently have to be to S r resorted to in order allay tatic elect ification, which very often causes trouble and prevents the fibres - from lying properly during the carding and drawing opera

. o and tions Occasionally, with good cott n easy drafts , humidities in t he card room can be carried to advantage

- 7 R but it as high as , is safer to start at a lower per centage and gradually work up to a point found to be most satisfactory by the overseer of ca rding . A R a t ordinary temperatures represents about 4 0 7 R % relative humidity, and a range to around consequently it will be found that humidities around 50 % will probably be found in general most s atisf actory for card room operations .

TEXTILE WORLD

C ombing C m ombing is such a delicate operation , hu idity, more v than in pre ious steps, can and does aid the manufacture materially . on hi o f Moreover, account of the gh initial cost the raw material, and finished product, humidity scientifically applied yields handsome return s . t mi 60 65 0 Indeed withou fair hu dities , up to or 7 , accurately and uniformly regulated, even fair results in this very important quality operation are extremely ffi di cult . ’ Humidity s place in this step is generally recogniz ed . What is not so generally recognized is the necessity f o r e fixed atmosph ric conditions .

Roving

‘ e n In the roving department, the fibres b gi to undergo

; the first twisting and a gradual drawing out process . This manufacturing o p ei a tion is aided by somewhat high ro to humidity . An average will probably be f m 6% “ and this represents humidities of from 4 570 to Here again variations must be made in individual c e to f o r f in r as s allow dif erences fibre, speeds, d afts, twists r and othe things o f that kind. Th e primary object in this a s in other manuf actu ring steps is to furnish a s

— f r a _ good a preparation o the next step s possible . l l m Ski lfu anipulation in this department, with scientific application of humidity make for a roving product that l helps material y in the next .

Spinning

The spinning operatio n is the final process where pounds o f cotton can be transfor med into yards o f is n to product, and here, naturally, the final opportu ity

Fo . 2 0 b n s . r o 8 make the most aving instance, if N are ei g is n — finished— no spun, after it wound o the bobbin further operation changes the relation between the cotton i t and the moisture . It s no longer possible o substitute some moisture f o r its equivalent in fibre . The profit has o r been seized lost at this point . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 27

Now probably to a greater extent here than elsewhere, in the manufacturing operation , must great care be exercised and the humidity be more particularly suited to the staple, numbers , drafts and things of that kind . The primary object , of course, is to get maximum production, and this frequently demands a lower moisture content in the fibre than is desirable in the finished yarn . Gonse quently, under these conditions yarn could be spun some one what light ; under some conditions , possibly number light, but of the proper sizing, so that when the final manufacturing operation has added the amount of moisture desired in the finished product, the counts will be correct, and the yarn will have the best possible appearance . o To that end, in the spinning operati n, regains from

7 % to 8% are usually found advantageous . This r ep r e sents relative humidities of from 50% to 60% and possibly sometimes even to

Warp ing

In twisting , spooling and warping the method of attack

is changed . No longer is it the object to change pounds

o f cotton into yards of yarn . No w the manuf actur er tries not only to strengthen it mi , to lay the twist, but to get it into more econo cal r shape for fu’rther manufactu ing . Hu midity s place now is important . It demands a heavy application combined with skill and precision that the work of the operative may be aided in strengthening

as . as much possible Also, to increase production and

prevent breakage . These departments may carry from to Regain to advantage — representing relative humidities of 65% to 7

Finishing

In yarn manufacture, it is recommended that in the

finishing operation, where the yarn is prepared f or ship i ment, the winding and pack ng department be carried at about R o r humidity of about With appreciably

greater moisture than this , there is a possibility of the out stock drying in shipment . 2 8 TEXTILE WORLD

W eaving

In the weaving operation, where production and t quality are prime requisites , a high humidity mus be carried ; but here again the character of the work enters

‘ a s o f sizin a s into consideration, the kind and amount g, f e well as the character o the goods themselves , requir careful consideration as to the best humidity to run . Ordinarily this is found to be around 1 0% to 1 1 % R this representing a relative humidity of from 7 0% to 7 Higher humidities can be used , and frequently to n as a s 85 to great advantage, sometimes runni g high % This is especially true in the case where automatic

. we m looms are used However, have seldo seen much advantage gained in humidities over a s the decreased activity o f the employees due to the depressing effect ” o f these high humidities is more than likely to o fi set h any small gain obtained in the working o f t e fibre itself . v o f a s is With a mo ing draft air, such obtained from f an air or e Parks Cramer high duty conditioners , c ntral station equipments a wea—v e room with such equipment can be run with perfect c omfort to the operatives at higher humidities than they can stand in rooms with no

l . circu ation, dead humidities and stagnant atmosphere the o f ha s Consequently, type equip ment also something to do with the temperature and humidity carried i n these rooms .

C loth Room

r is a In the cloth oom, it desirable to maint in a con dition o f approximately R for the same reason as 8 0 R in the finishing department in the yarn mill . An 72 7 repres ents about the condition o f moisture that will hold o f in shipment the finished product, and this represents

0 n f a 60 o r 62 . humidities o bout % 7 Under these co ditions , the cloth will hold its weight and the best general satis i faction s given . PART II

! UESTIONS AND ANSWERS ON C OTTON M ANUFACTURING

(T h e ! u estions a n d A nsw ers in t his section hav e been se lecte d from “ L D h m T T I W . T e u b t man y others in EX E O R’L n er app earin g af er each h bl l v u o q u estion is for t e p u ishers reference on y. E ery s bscri ber t v l m TEXT I L E W O R L D is in v ite d to a ai hi se lf of this free ser v ice . u no t d l d T h e i dentity of the in q irer is isc ose . )

COTTON GRADES AND YARN SI! ES

o f Kindly advise what style, grade and staple cotton is f o r used in the s pinning of the Eastern peeler yarns , which you quote prices on page 60 of your Dec . 3 0 2 837 issue . ( )

E In quoting astern peeler or other yarns , we have no o f o f e knowledge the style, grade and staple cotton us d , but are guided in our collation of prices by the character endeav er of the yarns themselves , and in all cases we to obtain average prices for good grades of y arn . e We can give you what w understand to be the style , grade and staple of cotton used by leading E astern spinners for good grades of E astern peeler weaving and hosiery yarns , both carded and combed , and it is probably safe to assume that o ur quotations are based on yarns Fo r a spun from such cottons . skeins and w rps the best “ ” E astern mills would use Rovers o f middling to strict i l 2 a s : to 6s 1 1 /1 6 . m ddling grade fo lows Up , to in staple ; 2 6 3 4 s 68 1 . 36 to 6s P to , commercial % in staple ; s , A; 1 4 . . 6s 56s l 1 to in staple ; to , commercial to ful % in s 56s 7 08 1 7 0 taple ; to , full to in . staple ; 8 to 90 8 1 . , % in . staple It may be stated that for 2 6s to 3 6s some spinners prefer to use a North Texas cotton of what “ ” is kn o wn a s export staple . Any o f the cottons named will give a standard break with proper preparation For hosiery y arns a lofty o r full cotton of good color ' s r 1 / is u ed , of strict to good middling g ade, with to 1 1 1 6 ‘

. 2 0 s 1 in staple for counts up to , and to l Vg in . 2 08 4 08 staple for to . 3 0 TEXTILE WORLD

CLEANING FIB ERS BY C OM PRESSED AIR

I am interested in an air picking process f or textile

fibers . Without doubt you can supply me with some r u info mation o n this subject . I believe that yo published an article some time ago in regard to an air picking 3820 machine which has recently b een developed . ( ) The article referred to is Textile Uses of Compressed ” Ai r o f 1 0 1 92 0 , printed in TEXTILE WORLD January , , which describes and illustrates a system f or opening and i a s cleaning cotton by compressed a r . The process w

F . R h a developed by J . eardon a’nd s been installed in the American Printing Company s plant at Fall River . It uses a trunk conveyor into which compressed air is shot by means of nozzles so placed that they direct the air into the mass of c otton passing along and hurl the fibers — hi against impingement bars w ch shake out dirt . It has b een found to clea n and bloom the cotton thor oughly to is to before delivery the lappers , and said permit the use o f o ne o r two lower grades of c o tton for equally good cloth .

PI N B EATER AN D RIGI D B LADE B EATER

What are the advantages o f a pin b eater over a blade o n n beater dyed , undyed and bleached stock , assumi g all ” to be strict middling cotton ? (2 91 0 ) The carding beate r or pin beater has the advantage in each case o n account of combining the carding and b eating th e o f action , pins penetrating the tufts cotton, thoroughly is separating and dividing them . Therefore the cotton deposited o n the cages in a finer and more even sheet and the Working o f the card lessened slightly. It also

removes more dirt and leaf than the rigid beater . Usually the fin isher picker is equi pped with the pin beater . The t c s matter of beating cot on requires study, be au e every time the beater pounds the c o tton some o f the fibers are s o broken and destroyed . To remedy thi defect , am ng other good featur es the G ordon licker-in attac hment on cards will enable the beaters to r un slower and also with o f a s c one less process picking, making just lean and better and stronger yarn than by beating the cotton harshly in the pic kers . C OTTON MILL HANDBOOK 31

TERM S USED FOR GRADES OF IM PORTED COTTONS Kindly inform me through ! uestion and Answer De ar tment E p of TEXTILE WORLD, whether the gyptian , Sea Island and Peruvian cottons used in the United States

are graded by the same terms as American cotton . If

not, will you kindly state the grading terms used for 4 091 these different cottons . ( )

Different terms are used for grades of Egyptian , Sea Island and Peruvian cottons than are used for ordinary

American cottons . E :F gyptian grades are air, good fair, fully good fair good, fine, extra fine . : Peruvian grades are Middling, middling fair, fair,

ne . ood fair good , fi , extra fine g , : Sea Island grades are Medium, medium fine , fine, extra

fine, choice, extra choice, fancy . You will probably also be interested in the terms used

f or American E gyptian grades . The trade most commonly

refers to grades of both Pima and Yuma varieties as No . 1 2 3 sometM es , No . and No . , but they are referred to as

e . fancy, standard, and medium, r spectively B EATING COTTON IN TH E PICKER

What is the requisite number of blows per inch that cotton of various lengths should receive in the picking on - room the various machines , two and three blade beaters and porcupine beater ”? (31 7 5)

to ne In order give a practical answer, o must assume

a certain layout o f the work being run . We will assume we ni - that are run ng inch stock through the breaker,

. f or 1 6 intermediate and finisher pickers Laps breaker,

o z . di 1 F z . 6 . 3 ; interme ate, oz inisher laps should be 1 o , on o f four doublings each picker, all which have single t bea ers . o f ul hi The body stock delivered to beater wo d, in t s c a e 1 6 4 4 6 z . o . s , be X per yd This is as heavy as it l r n u . b 50 o z . shou d be If a out per yard, it would be all

. F 50 t 65 z right for this stock rom o o . is a very good

range . Blade beaters in this case should run from 35 4 0 Fo r to blows per inch of stock delivered . pin beater s 32 TEXTILE WORLD

1 0 2 0 . it could be increased from to per cent , if stock were very dirty .

The main thing about picking is the air drafts . These should be so regulated that the stock will leave the beater ‘ h a For blade quickly and spread evenly on t e c ges . longer stock we u se only breaker and finisher and aim to deliver 30 4 0 about to blows to the length of stock delivered , if 50 z the sheet delivered is about o . to the y ard . If the

‘ t f ewer blo ws and e shee is lighter we deliver ; if heavi r, e f more blows . W have found the curling o stock is caused more by not havi ng proper draf t than by too i s o much beating . There no d ubt that excessive beating weakens the stock and causes excessive fi yings in later

proces ses . DEFECTS IN PICKER LAPS

In spite o f everything I. can do we are h a v1 ng thin

places in o u r picker laps . Is there anybody in your o fi c e a e wh o g me or mong your correspond nts , “can ive a list o f causes for this defect with remedies ? (1 582 )

i There are a number o f places in a c otton p i cker where the defect which causes thin places in laps may be o a o f l c ted, but it is found usually to consist wrong o f setting of some of the working parts , wrong ratio “ m o f speed between some of the oving parts , need repairs a o r or quite frequently c relessness in operation cleaning , more especially in the cleaning of the fi u es which conduct

the dust from the pickers to the dust h ouse . When a picker i s making uneven laps a nd it cannot i s readily be seen what wrong , a very good plan is to begin a t the feed and watch the passage o f the cotton t o f to the delivery end of the machine, making no e all the places at which the trouble might be found and exami ni ng those places carefully to see that everything me M e i s a s it should be . In this way things are so t s

found that might otherwise be overlooked . Following this plan with the picker making thin places

to . in laps the first thing be looked into is the apron, s which may be causing the trouble by lipping occasionally, a s or, s sometimes happens by a fault in the con truction of

the picker, which gives the evener and feed rolls a greater surface speed than that at which the apron delivers

34 TEXTILE WORLD

o f unevenness in laps , and bad places in laps from this cause are hard to remedy except by experimenting until a s the right combination is found, there are many things which affect the air currents Slich a s length and straight s o f fi e o f us ne s the u s, height and position the d t house, etc . But there are some general ru les that can be applied and will work o u t well under almost any conditions . The fan speed should always be great enough to produce an air curre nt “ sufficiently strong to car ry the small tufts o r flakes of cotton in an almost straight line from the point where they are drawn f rom the beater path to the point where they s trike the cages with little o r no u o r a fl ttering whirling, and they should st y where

” ' they strike on the c age u ntil shaken off by the stripping rolls . If there are any open places at the sides or the top o f th e picker they sh ould be blocked and -the air drawn by the f ans from the back o f the picker . and from under neath the beater .

sh ou ld be set so a s tO se n The dampers _ cau the cotto to be spread in an even sheet of u nif o r m ' thic kness on th e ‘ a nd a a n to cages, I have alw ys found it advantage u so a s to h reg late them, cause the c otton to strike hig on to wa ff up the p cage, as this in no y a ects the even ness of the laps and tends i to prevent splitting at the cards .

“ eat r Usually the gr e the fan speed, within r easonable but o ne limits, the smoother and more even the laps, as ” of the main objects o f picking machinery is to clean the o f cotton, in increasing the fan speed the speed the beater and the setting o f the grid bars must be c o nsidered . The loosening o f any part which is Supposed to be fast o r to a moving shaft such as gears, the cages, the C a s l stripping rolls will ause thin places , but they wi l extend across the la p they are readily noticed and in fixed without caus g much trouble . Most o f the things I have mentioned would cause both hi mi thick and t n places , but I have o tted none o f them bec ause almost always when a thin place is found in is a lap there a corresponding thick place near it, although so a ne the thick place may not be noticeable s the thin o . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 35

M ACHINERY F OR WASTE YARNS What machinery would be necessary to produce pounds per month o f made from high grade card strips ? (2 638) The following is a list of the machinery used for the 1 0 production of pounds per month, of No yarn from high grade strips : 1 Combination one beater finisher picker with hopper

feeder attached to 4 lap apron .

2 Breaker cards with fancy and belt delivery .

1 Lap winder . 3 F inisher cards with fancy, tandem lap combination

and four coiler front . 1 2 56 9X4 . Slubbers, spindles each , /z inch bobbin 4 R 1 60 4 - ing spinning frames , spindles each inch gauge, 1 - - 2 8 . 741 inch ring, inch traverse

PIECE -WORK ON PICKERS AND CARDS Do you know of any manner in which operat“ors of - 2 pickers and cards are paid on piece rate basis . Are there any hank clocks or measuring devices which could be used “for this purpose, and where could they be best attached 3 (4 04 3 ) There are numerous mills where picker-tenders and - - card tenders are paid by the piece work method , the basis of pay being the standard hank of 84 0 yards . As regards pickers , the hank clock is ordinarily attached at the end of the cage shaft, or at the end of one of the calender rolls . To attach it to the end o f one of the fluted lap rolls would probably be simpler, but would not be feasible, owing to the mechanical arrangement whereby the lap rolls and beater can remain in motion without delivering any product . A method used in applying hank cloc ks to cards con of li sists instal ng it in the coiler, the clock being operated through a small wheel by frictional contact with the of ne f surface o o the coiler calender rolls . When no sliver is being deposited in the can the calender roll has no contact with the wheel which operates the clock . The disadvantage is that the clock c an be made to register when no material is being delivered by inserting a short 3 6 TEXTILE WORLD piece o f sliver between the coiler calender rolls and j oining the loose ends in such manner a s to form a ring of sliver . The ring thus formed serves to maintain the contact between the calender roll and the wheel exactly as though the card were producing sliver . Under c om petent supervision this form of dishonesty would probably be soon discovered and the practice discontinued .

Hank clocks f o r these - purposes can be readily obtained uf o f from any man acturer hank clocks . SPE CKS I N CARDED C OTTON WE B

The webs from some of our cards working o n inch cotton contain too many specks and particles o f foreign a r matter and e generally rough . Small white specks com posed of fibers rolled up into ball form are very evident . Are there any general directions you can give u s that may improve the work ? (3328) The causes o f foreign matter o r specks are generally

that cards need grinding and setting or ar e overc rowded . A large produc tion may be o btained at the expense o f

bad work . The little balls o f fiber are p robably caused

by the working surface being to o f ar from the cylinder .

The web will look rough if the comb is to o high . If it i s to o low the stock may go around the doffer . The stock will sometimes roll up under the comb and drop on the i t r floor . This s ca used by a lack o f humidi y o by allow n ing the room to become too cold . This often happe s - ‘ a et o n colored o r bleached work . If the comb c nnot be s m “ to handle the stock the Only re edy is moisture .

‘ The settings of a card for inch cotton should be a s ! i n . i close. a s possible Without touchi g Follow ng s a

/ r a c tic al table o f 1 0 00th o f . p settings , given in , an inch 01 2 Feed plate and licker . inch Mote knife and licker ! L 01 2 inch 00 Licker scre en nose . 9 inch 1 2 Licker screen back . 5 inch 0 09 Cylinder and licker . inch Cylinder screen 032 inch 01 Cylinder and back plate . 7 inch 01 0 i . Cylinder and tops , back . inch

. 0 07 Cylinder and tops , front inch 00 Cylinder and doffer . 5 inch COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 37

The cylinder and stripping plate should be set about f o an inch , or according to the amount of strips to be taken o u t with the tops . When the top of the front plate is set close to the cylinder, and the fibers cling to the cylinder, the tops are usually light . When the plate is set away from the cylinder it allows the fibers to cling to the tops and they are removed by the stripping comb as waste . in All machinery , and especially a card , should be kept the best possible condition . That means it should be cleaned often and kept well oiled . G rinding should be thoroughly done and the settings looked after . It is well to grind over the cards once every four to six weeks , setting the principal points each time, and at least twice a year to ta ke out the screens and give cards a thorough overhauling . The grinder can so time his work as to overhaul o ne or more cards every time he grinds around and will thus always have his work in shape .

B CARD CLOTHIN G NUM ERS ON CYLINDER , D OFFERS AND FLATS

dofi er o f In clothing the cylinder, and flats the card , which practice should be followed ? Should the flats be a s do fi er covered with the same numbered clothing the , a or should they have the same number s the cylinder, and wh !2 4 1 7 0 if so , y . ( ) In selecting suitable numbers of card clothing it should be borne in mind that the coarser numbers only are suitable for heavy production from the card, and the fine numbers

(No . 1 1 0 and finer) are adapted to light productions only . There is a strong tendency to select numbers that are too f r AI fine o the work contemplated . SO it more frequently happens that a mill is short of rather than overburdened with cards . The result is overloaded wire . It often happens that a superintendent is compelled to materially increase his production per card in order to keep pace with an increasing demand for lower counts o f yarn . The chances are that all of his card clothing is already one number too fine for the normal production . The result o f further increase in production is that the it card clothing is loaded beyond s capacity . 8 TEXTILE WORLD

If at the same time the wire o n the flats is finer than o n cylinders , the carding about equally divided between n cylinder and flats , it will surely follow that the wire o the flats will be the first to give o u t under constant over load . The carding load o n the doffer wire is much lighter o n o n f than the flats , and the finer wire the dof er pro eb duces a smoother w . The wire o n the flats should be equal to the required ’ carding load and the wire on the cylinder should be o f equal capacity with the flats .

GRINDI NG LIC KER -I N

I have some o ld cotton cards and the lickers -in are ’ , worn out . The mill doesn t want to have them covered

‘ e f i nw for they ar e go ng to scrap the cards soon . They are worn in spaces ; one o r two spaces o n each licker are

kno e f . to i worn out, not bent over o r flattened I want w e m I could fix them with an emery whe l, and grind the

. 4 1 36 do wn level I ( )

When licker-in teeth ar e worn down it naturally follows n that the points are blunted . Badly blu ted teeth will not do the work required of the licker -in and we do not know e o f a method o f repointing . The blunted t eth can be len th to surface ground to uniform i g , but restore the necessary angle and p oint o f tooth is mechanically and commercially impossi ble, except by way o f rewinding with new wire .

JAM M ED CARD CLOTHI NG ‘

! uite a while ago some of my card cylin ders got a few slight jams a nd the wire wa s straightened and made as good as new . But I notice those places always leave

“ a dark mark when the card is working . When the cylinder is stripping clean of cou rse it is not noticeable . The wire “ is sharp and everything appears to be all right, but I i do not like the looks of those dark marks . If there s a way it can be remedied I should like to know it . (920 )

; If the steel tempered wire on a card gets j ammed it can never be raised and made a s good a s new . The COTTON MILL H ANDBOOK 39 wire is so hard that if it is once bent it cannot be scraped up , and a good job can be done only by using a tube E and getting up each individual wire separately . ven then some wires will be longer o r higher than others and the spot will always show a black mark . There is no way to prevent it . I have never seen a jam picked up to be as good as

im o ssible ‘ to new, and I believe it is p do it on tempered steel wire . With the old soft wire a much better job difi er ent could be done, but with steel wire it is quite a a a thing . I have picked up j ms so th t they could not be detected by the hand, but they would show the dark spots when the card got to work . The cylinder will do good work after quite a large jam has been picked up , but a doffer is diff erent . A jam o f any size on a doffer is sure to show up in the web no matter how well it is picked up . I believe it is impossible to get the wires into the exact position they occupied before they were eb . w jammed The will be weak in those places .

CARDING AND SPINNING DYED STO CK

I am enclosing a s ample of stock dyed with sulphur - t tan . This is converted with about three quar ers as much - f d estufi o ne o ne . sulphide as o y , and half per cent of f . o sodium carbonate, and about twenty per cent sodium - chloride . It is well washed and after treated with about o f o one per cent . c pper sulphate and bichromate of

o f . sodium and about two per cent . acetic acid It is

again well washed , extracted and dried . In the carding it gives considerable trouble and in the s pinning it causes ul k incessant breakage o n the frames . I wo d li e to have your suggestions as to how these difficulties may be over 4 4 4 3 come . ( )

o n o f There are several sulphur tans the market, each which must be dyed according to the process best adapted

. to out o f to it The formula does not seem be proportion, e and the dyeing process appears to be r asonable . E mi m xa nation of the dyed sliver shows nothing abnor al , but it is suggested that the final washing of the cotton be done with a small amount of good soluble oil added to 4 0 TEXTILE WORLD

the water . By so doing a trace o f oil will remain in the cotton , which will materially aid in improving the working t qualities , and contribute to be ter spinning . The sliver mi sub tted is remarkably dry and clean, and that condition o f may be the underlying cause the trouble .

CARD RO OM c osTs

tVill you please answer the f o llo wmg questions through ? n your paper In making and cotton yar s , what would be considered a go o d c o st in th e entire card k ow :O room, made up as foll s pening and picker rooms

n . cards, drawi g slubbers , intermediates and fine frames t a f a In case this canno be nswered under the dif erent he ds , 4 08 the total cost will do . ( 6 )

We assume that the inquirer is referring to labor costs

- only . In manufacturing the above yarns , a hank roving woul d be suitable in every case . It is rather “ difficult to divide card room labor costs in t he manner indicate d by the inquirer unless one has some particular so mill in mind , since there are many labor items such as o wages of overseers , second hands, third hands , ilers , z difi c u lt si ers, sweepers, and scrubbers, which are to

- apportion in detail unless all th e circumstances are known .

We have, therefore, given figures which represent in our judgment fair c ard ro om labor costs o n a 5-hank es o ne r e r e roving , dividing the timates into two parts ; p f or u senting labor costs processes prior to the sl bbers, and on intei the other representing labor costs the slubbers ,

f . l mediates , and fine rames combined Such genera labor costs a s those enumerated above have been totalled and

“ divided equally between the two divisions . The estimates follow :

Card room labor for p rocesses prior to slubbers . 01 85 n i fi e . o . Labor slubbers, ntermediates and n frames

Total card room labor It should be borne in mind that the above fi gures are i E u ntended to ac cord with New ngland mill sage, and 8 are based on a weekly running time of 4 hours .

4 2 TEXTILE WORLD is showing and o n medium to fine counts many places require the bobbins to be left in the creels until the i bobbin s showing on both sides o f the roving . It is ’ customary in most mills f or the spinners to cut off the

o n e . pieces , but this should never be allowed . the sp eders If the hands are unwinding the pieces they are not apt i to unwind two or three rows of rov ng . In three processes of speeders the tota l roving w aste sh ould not run over “ f 1 . o o per cent the pr duction, and this should include all

. a s a s waste from run over bobbins, etc , well from the creelings .

FELTIN G ON CARD S

When taking charge o f some carding and spinning ‘ rooms recently I found one card with the flats embedded with fibres below the knee of the wire . I cleaned them out and before working the card found the rev olving brush wa s set so that the bristles rubbed the foundation f e h o the wire . I removed this so they would r ac to the n e o f d to n t k e the wire, but have faile preve t the fla s

“ hall I - d from becoming imbedded . What s o next ? (656)

To remedy the difficulty I should first clean the flats and then polish the wire With t he burnishing brush . Then to t o f I should look the set ing the revolving brush , setting the brush so that its bristles Wi ll penetrate about half e The v way between the kne and the point . revol ing brush should be set so a s to br ush that p art of the wire near the p oint only when it will take the cotton and dirt away from the flats instead o f pushing the dirt toward t e a of . h ul the found tion the wire However, if fa t has “ ” to o n h been caused by heavy grindi g, whic has hooked ” f mi the wire, nothing will prevent the flats rom beco ng

dirty until the - wire has been put in good condition by a frequent light grinding . I have burnishing brush and f o r solid grinding roll every twenty cards, which I keep o ne set o f in use all the time, changing from flats to

another every day and am not troubled by dirty flats . A carder replies as follows :I would recommend first “ ” o f ascertaining the cause the felting as it is termed . There is no u se in prescr ibing a cure until measures have COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 4 3

been taken to prevent a repetition of the trouble . There f ew are several causes of felting, and by enumerating a of them the inquirer may possibly be able to discover if

any o f them are applicable to his case . It may be

caused by rough wire, to which the fibres will adhere, and the roughness may have been caused by the wire getting

damp . The highly polished state of the wire makes it F very susceptible to moisture . lats sometimes get damp

through a leaking steam pipe joint , or a defective a sprinkler head , or from exhaust ste m or rain blowing

in through a broken window . If this particular card

stands in a draughty, cold part of the room, it may

cause felting . l Occasionally, oil is thrown on to the flats by a pu ley,

or strap paste from a belt, either of which would cause the fibres to stick to the wire ; but worst of all is in

effectual grinding . After ascertaining if possible the reason of the fibres

sticking, the flats should be given a thorough cleaning k with a hand strickle, on which is sprin led a little whitening, and also sprinkle some on the flats . When thoroughly clean, set the revolving brush as deep as

possible without touching the foundation, and persevere with this until the smooth polished condition o f the wire A is recovered . burnishing brush is of great assistance to clean and polish the wire . If this treatment fails , is there a flat cleaning apparatus , which is fixed on the o f t w front the card ex ending the full idth , covered with w filletin i ire g, and worked with a reciprocat ng motion, w“hich will keep them clean and prevent their becoming felted . A superintendent replies as follows :It is probable that one o f the following conditions exists o n the clothing of r v i the flats refer ed to, pro iding the clothing s properly

constructed . F irst, the clothing may be hooked ; second , the teeth o r may be scaly ; third, the wire may have become rusty by having carded wet cotton or been exposed to a damp

atmosphere . o f e In view this, the b st procedure would be to put n f o r o ne two on the grindi g roll lightly or hours, and then mount a burnishing brush in the place of the grind 4 4 TEXTILE WORLD

n t ing roll and allow it to stay o for abou half a day .

If a burnishing brush is not available, a stripping brush will answer the same purpose with the wire of the br ush a set bout inch into the wire of the flats .

SPEED S AND WEIGH TS F OR C OM B ED COTTON Y ARN S

I am spinning 60s and 7 0 s yarn from -inch good middling cotton and would like to know just what you consider the best way to run it through the card room . f On Please give me the speed o the beater the pickers , r the weight of the picke laps , weight of the card sliver w nk of and the dra ings ; also the ha roving the slubber, n m and first and second i ter ediate jack frames , and the f fl 4 21 7 weights o laps o the combers . ( )

Using two processes o f picking we would employ com - mon two bladed steel beaters running at about 900 r . p . m . The finisher picker lap would be about ounces per 0 r 5. yard . At the ca ds we would use a draft of about 1

h ul - This , in conjunction wit the waste removed wo d give us a card sliver weighing about 50 grains per yard . We would not run the card doffer faster than seven turns per minute . The weight of lap produced at the sliver and ribbon ’V I e lappers depends upon the typ e o f comber used .

1 8 2 0 . would expect to make from per cent . to per cent - comber noils and would produce a 4 5 gr ain c omber sliver . We would employ two processes of drawing dOubling six

i six o . ends , and us ng a draft of at each pr cess Thus the

finished drawing sliver would weigh 4 5 grains per yard . 2 E mployment of a draft o f 3 . 5 at the slubber would give us a . 60 hank slubber roving . An intermediate draft o f would produce a hank intermediate n f roving . O the fine frames a draft o would provide a hank fine roving which, at the j ack frames, would 1 2 1 4 nk be drawn into hank and ha jack rovings , em ploying drafts of and respectively . These rovings would give the required 60s and 7 0s yarn if a f 1 0 theoretical spinning draft o were used in both cases . It should be observed that the spinning and fly frame drafts mentioned above are theoretical drafts only . In COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 45 actual practice they would need to be slightly increased on account of the contraction due to twist, if the desired sizes of roving and yarn were to be obtained .

HAN K C L OC K S ON DRAWING FRAM ES

Does the use of a hank clock on the drawing frames improve the efficiency of the drawing department to any great extent ? Many mills consider drawing a department which can be run any old way provided it keeps the

slubber supplied with sliver, and thus claim there is no

advantage in the hank clock . We seem to think, on fi general principles, that this is poor ef ciency and the 392 4 piece basis should be wor ked out if practical . ( ) Many mills have applied hank clocks to the drawing - frames with very successful results . The piece work method of paying the drawing — frame tenders has quite generally led to higher production per delivery and per

operative .

As the inquirer indicates , the value of such procedure is not so marked in a mill which has ample drawing capacity as in the plant which has difficulty in getting

the work through the drawing processes . In the latter

case, however, it is frequently found that the paying of piece work based o n hank- clock readings enables the department to reduce the number of drawing tenders ff required to put the work through , thereby e ecting a

reduction in the payroll, while frequently providing a

larger weekly pay envelope for the operatives remaining . At the same time it may become possible to shut down hi eflec t some deliveries, w ch would certain, though small,

savings in power, supplies, etc . The progressive manufacturers are realizin g more and more that the breaking strength o f the yarn is aflec ted materially by the speed of the drawing processes ; that e is, that a reduction in the spe d of the drawing frames frequently improves both the quality and the strength o f

the resultant yarn . The u se o f the hank clocks and piece rates at the drawing frames should make it possible to put the same bulk of product through the same number o f machines at a reduced speed . Many manfacturer s 4 6 TEXTILE WORLD would prefer the advantage thus gained to the moderate payroll reduction which would ensue were the former rate of speed maintained . A further advantage o f the use of hank clocks is that of they provide another record the production, which may prove of value when compared with the records o f subse quent processes and departments . Careful supervision o f the pr ocess should be provided

k in _ if hank cloc s are installed, order to prevent the operatives interfering with th e stop motions and running the frames when ends are down at the back o r when hi other undesirable conditions exist . T s would probably require no more effort than that which is now necessary “

- to keep the help on the j ob while an hourly rate is paid .

SL AC K SLIVER IN DRAWING

In some o f ou r drawing frames it sometimes happens one o f that the slivers , after getting through the iron ’ l k n ! s a c ens a d eb t u . rolls, causes the w o clog up the tr mpet ! i “ m The cotton s bleached . Will y ou please tell e some remedy to get the web to r un even ? (2259 )

I have often found just such trouble and f or a long time was much pu zzled a s to the exact cause of the slack r u o f f i nning ends , between ront metall c rolls and the

. n f the calender roll, at coiler O e o most frequent causes ’ o f i f the nec ks f the trouble s wearing o o the top rolls , thus allowing the flutes ~ ~o n the rolls to mesh deeper

‘ o one is together . When this happ ens n side only it generally evidence t hat that side is worn more than the o f other side . This can be tested by taking hold the stirrup o n the slack running side and relieving the i w . weight slightly, when the end ll run tighter This trouble can usually be overcome by - c hanging the top metallic rolls , and swapping them around, taking a roll from a sla ck running end and putting where there is a tight running end . S ometimes turning a top roll and changing ends will overcome the slack runnin g . The o f is to set o f proper method , course, get a new rolls e ked o r at least to have the old set r en c . Where all the ends o n a drawing frame run slack t o between front roll and coiler, the draft between these w COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 4 7

points can be changed slightly . Much bad work is caused by having the ends run too tight and the writer prefers

to have them run a little slack . The trumpets should o f be the proper size to give a uniform tension . As the weather changes affect their tension it is sometimes

necessary to change a tooth one way or the other, but this should be done carefully .

SETTING DRAWING FRAM ES How can I obtain the best and strongest yarn from ? 7 0 American cotton, inch staple I have a grain per yard sliver at the card going through two processes

o f 7 2 . drawing, delivering a grain finished drawing What should be the setting of the drawing and the intermediate draft ? (64 9)

Only a n approximate answer can be given to this question as the results are determined by the quality o f on the fibre, the drafts and speeds used the various

a s . machines , well as the condition of the drawing rolls 7 0 6 With a grain sliver, a doubling , and making a 7 2 o n grain drawing, we have a draft of the finisher 7 0 draw frame, assuming that a grain is made in the

first drawing process the same as on the card . If other conditions are normal the following drafts and settings o r will be found to give the best results, approximately o n : so , the draw frame

5 l st 2 nd 1 1 K Distance between and roll centers, to

inches . 2nd 3r d 1 . Distance between and roll centers, % inches 3r d . Distance between and back roll centers, inches

The division o f draft b etween these r Olls may be a s follows

1 t 2nd Draft between s and rolls, 2nd 3r d Draft between and rolls, 3r d 4 th Draft between and rolls,

As the I nq u I r er does not say what hank is being made o r on the slubber intermediate, a general answer only 4 8 TB xT I L E WORLD

o f can be given . Distance between bite front and middle rolls

rt . Slubber, to inches f a Intermediate , to inches .

R . oving, inch

Distance between bite o f middle and back rolls :

Slubber, inch .

Intermediate, to inches . f 1 t to . Roving, 4 inches

With reference to the draft between these rolls a common division is to put from to between a nd t he di back middle rolls, and then total draft vided by the draft between back and middle rolls will give the draft between the front and middle rolls . ’ While this is given a s a practical answer to the inquirer s e ? be qu stion, it should be remembered that there may defects in the s pinning . frame that will reduce the strength o f the yarn although the roving is practically perfect . PRODUCTION OF JACK TRAME

“ f wa s r un u If a fine speeder or j ack rame ’ contin ally 8 n fl 50 for 5 hours without a stop , tur ing o hanks, what l f o r doffin n per cent . of loss shou d be allowed g, pieci g ”L 989 . L up broken ends, cleaning, etc ( )

The percentage Of efficiency u sually obtained from the machines in the prepar a tion processes f o r cotton yarn is among the most variable items in the mill . On similar d t goo s the production may vary considerably, owing o hi the conditions under w ch the machines are run . The following, however, will give an approximate percentage

' under average conditions . On fine speeders or j ac k f r ames er a production of 90 per cent . is consid ed satisfactory 8 nk 8 1 92 . 5 when running below ha ; from to h:ank, per cent . may be obtained ; and over 1 5 hank roving 92 9 from to 8 per cent . sho uld be obtained under good

. n f conditions O intermediates the per cent . o production 90 is usually about , while o n slubbers the weekly product 83 9 . o f will vary from per cent to 0 per cent . theoretic al = production, depending upon stock used and hank slubbing being made .

50 TEXTILE WORLD

f . . o inch roll and find under r p m . roll the speed, which

. 3 6 90 9 . 88 . is 8 . We find that r p m will give hanks and

9 . . . 37 8 . r p . m . will give hanks , hence r p m will give 1 0 f n 58 0 . o . hanks in hours , which is per cent productio

An overseer should know about what per cent . of efficiency he can safely reckon on . Suppose an efficiency 9 0 r o f 9 0 per cent . would give x . ) o 33 hanks per frame in 58 hours .

Sp eed T able f or T r ent Ro ll With Given Twist and Fly er S p eed Revolutions per m inute COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 51

Produc tion f or Fr ont Roll 1 00% o f H anks in Given H ours with G iven Speed of Front Roll Hours Hours

SIZE OF ROVING

h is 2 6s 2 8s 32 s W at hank roving used in making , , and 36s ne cotton yarn, using o inch M erican cotton ? What hank rovings are best suited for various numbers of (894 ) I would say that for the 2 6s and 28s from single v ro ing, about a to hank could be used with good

ul . n res ts If the yarn is to be spu from double roving, about to hank may be used, depending upon the 52 TEXTILE WORLD

F r 32 36s quality of yarn required . o s and a han 1 6 . single roving , or about 4 hank using double roving With reference to the best hank roving o f numbers yarn , this may be answered in a genera by saying that on ring spinning frames using roving, the hank should be made to keep the total around 9 o r 1 0 ; while with double roving a 1 0 a r e il draft can be used . There many m ls using longer drafts than these, but they cannot genera e a s to recommend d , high drafts tend Their use in many instances is made ditions which cannot be avoided ; and r er superintendent o spinn prefers a high draft . The drafts given will also apply o n spinning except that ro ll draft may be specified and not draft ; this is because the mule is provided with mean f o r th introducing carriage draft , after the fibres leave

e ! rolls, thus giving a great r total draft than that repr

sented by the drawing rolls .

CAUSES OF WE AK OOTTON YARNS

' - A 30s Warp yarn we are makI ng is breaking h elm standard and we are interested in knowing what will inc r ea s i 1 2 the strength . The lap s ounces ; card sliver Weigh 4 5 grains ; l st drawing weighs 4 6 grains ; 2nd drawing

! weighs 50 grains ; 7 0 hank sliver ; 1 75 hank i ntermediate

75 r. 31 0 a nd 5. hank speede ( 6 ) The inquirer does h o t say anything about the amoun

of twist in the yarn . I t may be that he is figuring th twist With the ratio of Whirl to cylinder a s given in th o i t catalogs o f machine builders . The pr per way s o fin

out What the ratio really is . This can be done by mark i turnin ing a spindle and also the driv ng pulley, and ul o f t the p ley around once , counting the number revol

‘ d e tions o f the spindle . This shoul be done several tim With different spindles and the average taken f or th

ratio . of th The size the band changes the ratio considerably, larger band revolving the spindle slower than the smalle

. a s dee in tb band The larger band does not go down a p - hi i f f V shaped W rl , which consequently g ves the ef ect o

larger Whirl . Perhaps the wrong ratio is being figur e COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 53

30 and the standard turns o f twists per inch for N o . yarn are not being put in . The cotton fibre that is used may be of an inferior grade . The twists or convolutions are not as numerous in half ripe fibres and are almost lacking in unripe or immature fibres . Poor varieties have fewer convolutions than the better varieties . From the information given it is possible to calculate only the drafts of the work . With the exception of the

am . card , they not too long The draft of the card may influence the strength o f the yarn . It is not necessary to ru n such a long draft in this case . B y slightly lengthening the drafts in the processes following the card , better work can be obtained .

Some mills run longer drafts , which is all right if their grade o f work will stand it and the fibres are not injured . Th e longer the draft the longer the fibres are held by the bite o f the feed roll and the longer the fibres are exposed - ne to the action of the licker in . O of the functions of the - licker in is that o f combing and straightening the fibres .

As long as the feed roll holds the fibres they are combed .

Then the feed plate should be of proper dimensions . The distance from the bite o f the feed roll to the lower edge at the point where the teeth Of the licker I n are nearest o f 1 4 to the face the plate should be from to 7 4, inch o f longer than the average length staple being worked , -in otherwise the fibres will be broken by the licker teeth , which take the fibres away before they are liberated from f the bite of the feed roll . The angle o the face of the feed should be such a s to cause the teeth o f the licker-in to comb the fibres for about two -thirds of their length F before they become detached . rom this it can be seen that a shorter draft shortens the time the licker-in has r to act upon the fibres , causing less broken, injured o

strained fibres . Some o f the defects that influence the strength o f yarn

are pointed out above, but it would be impossible, with

the information given, to say exactly what the cause is i in th s case . It would be advisable to shorten the draft o n f the card ; the other processes are not o v er dr a ted . The drawing would be b etter if it was not drafted much ix over s . 4 TEXTILE WORLD

WINDING ON BARE SPINDLE I N RING SPINNING

I am interested in the subject o f winding o n bare spindle in ring spinning and would be“ obliged if you would mention the name and address of a firm that makes f 27 08 a specialty o such machinery . ( )

A machinery builder states that a s far a s he knows personally there h as been no successful application made of winding on to a bare spindle in ring spinning o f the a i same nature s s done o n a mule s pindle . We do no t know o f a ca se where the yarn is wound on f Or the bare Spindle in ring spinning . Several patents l this purpose have been developed; but the p r oc ess is not being carried o n commercially to o ur knowledge . Both r cotton and worsted are f equently spun, doubled and twisted o n paper tubes which fit o n bushings placed on i n t to the spindle to support them . It s o practicable spin o n the ring frame where the angle o f lead would be such a s from the traveler to a bare spindle of the d or inary thickness . v wa s e E (Since the abo e writt n, two nglish inventors have adapted a r ing spinmng frame to the bare spin le . d s n a ystem of spinni g . The development w s described in f ~ e the August Issue o TE XTILE W ORLD . W do no t believe that their inve ntion ha s been adopted

‘ o howe er c mmercially, v r L

LENGTH or TIM E To RU N — A TRAVELER

l 8 u on Please te l u s hoW lOng a N o . trav eler sho ld run o 1 2 e o u r N yar n o n practically new rings . W think is i to o 277 2 man us ng many . ( )

No . 8 travelers runnin g o n 1 2 s yarn should be changed ever y three or four weeks to give the best and most economical results . The speed is high and the traveler is so heavy that there is very little chance of their break ff a e ing and flying O s light r ones do . After a traveler has run three weeks it ha s bec o me worn so that it gives on n is a very uneven tension the yar , and thus the cause COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 55

of many ends breaking ; it also wears the rings excessively .

Travelers are cheaper to replace than rings . If the rings are nearly new, but have been run long enough “ ” to get smoothed up (some makes of rings take longer “ ” to smooth up than others ) , the travelers might be run four weeks safely before being changed , but I would not advise running any longer than this . 5 - One mill man finds that a No . traveler on a inch 1 4 0 ring , with revolutions front roll will run about five

. : weeks . He says I make it a practice to change all travelers and while at times I can let them run over a week longer, it hardly pays as we plan to change so

. 8 many frames a week . I should think a No traveler is rather heavy, unless for a smaller ring . In summer, I travelers do not run as well as n the winter .

SOFT PLACES IN COTTON YARN

I am sending you a sample of soft , coarse cotton yarn wi o ne used as a filling for blankets . I sh you would have o f your experts test this for me and tell me what the n i trouble is . By holdi g the bobb n so as to make a little friction in the yarn you can find a number of soft places . Y o u can pull Off a few yards before it breaks and then it will break quite often . The spindles are driven by gear so there is no chance for a slip unless the bobbin 381 6 flies up o n the spindle . ( ) The soft places where the yarn pulls apart easily do not contain any perceptible twist, due to the fact that is the yarn is uneven, and Wherever there a thick place ne f - w in the yarn it is lacking in twist . O o the well kno n principles of spinning is that no twist will be inserted hi “ in a t ck place until a thin place has taken all it can, hence no matter h ow positive the drive o f the spindle may be, if uneven roving is being fed, uneven twist will be placed in the yarn and soft places will result . The remedy is to get the roving more even by giving attention to the processes p receding the actual spinning o f

the yarn . Causes of unevenness may be that the staples o f cotton used vary too greatly in length o f fibre ; laps 6 TEXTILE WORLD

to o from finisher picker uneven , either in thickness of o r o r sheet, in weight of lap produced ; over, excessive o r drafting at the card fly frames . Too much twist in the roving will also cause uneven a s r drawing , or drafting , and a esult uneven roving and

yarn . If the processes preceding spinning cannot be im wa f i proved , the only y to of set the defect referred to s to o r ffi insert more twist in the yarn, su cient twist to

. l f eliminate the soft places The atter remedy will, _o c f course, ne essitate a more ef ective napping to get the

or . desired cover, nap in the finished blanket

WEI GHTS F OR SPINNING ROLLS

o s o f In cott n spinning, what are the best amount weight to apply to the rolls for counts o f yarn from 1 6s to 50s with standard twist constants and ordinary roll speeds ? (384 4 )

‘ we ‘ In one note, find that for double roving with a h medium draft, a weight whic will, when multiplied by a o f 25 to 30 the leverage, produce total p ressure from

!

is . we pounds satisfactory However, think that this

figure would better be around 2 0 pounds . Two o f the very prominent spinning -frame builders equip their frames for coarse work with weights which t u of 1 9 r e ec produce a otal press re and pounds , sp i el t . i v y The latter s intended particularly for waste, m o th f which probably accounts for so e f e dif erence . F I s urther, the roll diameter smaller than the average o f which , course, would necessitate additional weight .

Fo r m-s the frames designed to make mediu ized yarns ,

' these concerns put o u t machines which give a total c pressure of and pounds, resp e tively , the former being arranged to give total pressure of and 1 2

pounds, if desired . These two types will spin yarns between 1 6s and 50s very satisfactorily with the weights arranged to give the total pressure spoken of above, that is, and

pounds .

- ff Since machine makers design their stirrups di erently, it is impossible to say that a 3-pound weight at the end

8 TEXTILE WORLD

i they have been cared for . It s a frequent sight to see cards that are twenty y ears old operating quite successfully at the speeds which are recommended for new cards . i f s 3 . It s doubtful whether any ef ect re ulting from running the cans to o full at the cards would be perceptible “ in the finished product . There would be a tendency to cause unevenness and neps . The damaged sliver would probably never get into the work in that condition a s the drawing tender would be most likely to remove the to p layers from the can rather than attempt to feed the sliver into the frames .

4 . es e o f The r ponsibility for , the increas d breakage ends in h ot damp weather lies with excessive amount o f moisture in the atmosphere . The heat would of itself cause little trouble in this respect if only a suitable n o f degree Of humidity were present . The mo ist co dition the air causes everything t o be more o r less damp and. i . s sticky There _much more frictional resistance between ' the f or s the ring and traveler this rea on, and between en the traveler and the yarn . Consequ tly the strain on the a s ul be o yarn is greatly increased, just it wo d in n rmal weather if a much heavier traveler than usual were em i r ployed . More friction s also expe ienced between the e its stock and the guide wir s, and the roving in passage

‘ c to tO th em through the rolls has a tenden y adhere , owing

to e . th ir moist condition Again, the dampness tends to

“ swell the leather rolls and thus to make them draw im properly . m 5. The nu ber o f broken ends du e to leaf and trash should be negligible when processing cotton of as good a s S c d grade trict middling , if the picking and ar ing are f properly carried o u t. These processes should take care o the slight increase in the amount o f dirt in the cotton “ when changing from good middling to strict middling . Leaf and trash are usually blamed f o r a good many broken ends that are due to worn travelers , worn rings, e worn guide wir s , bad rolls , rings that are not level , ofi o f spindles center, dry spindles, incorrect weight

o f lo o se . o r travelers, incorrect amount twist , and bunchy bands . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 59

SPINNING COTTON ON WOOL SYSTEM

E nclosed is a small swatch of roping from o u r spinning mules . We are having trouble with this roping winding around the rollers in the spinning . A broken end, instead n o f running o the floor until the spinner pieces up , runs around the roller and causes considerable trouble . We would appreciate it if you could give us some information as to the cause . The stock is cotton and is carded and 24 1 8 spun o n the woolen system . ( ) I notice the roping is very soft and dry and that it has quite a few specks of cotton seeds in it . This would cause the ends to break Off short when the rollers stop .

If the rollers are cold when starting they , will attract

o f . the soft, dry ends the roping In working this kind of e o f o il ne stock I use fiv quarts lard , lukewarm , to o hundred pounds of cotton and have had very good results .

SPINDLE SPEED ON RING FRAM ES Will you explain for me how to find accurately the speed o f spindles on ring frames ? (1 507 ) Owing to the high speed at which ring frame spindles are run, and the tendency of the band to stretch and slip , it is impossible to calculate with absolute accuracy the number o f turns of twist per inch introduced into nfl the yarn . The action of the traveler also i uences the twist . Some spinn ers obtain the ratio between the cylinder and spindles by marking the bobbins o n about 1 0 spindles having bands in good condition and of x i appro imately uniform tension . The cylinder s then turned a number o f revolutions and the number o f turns o f each spindle is noted f or each revolution of the

n . f or o ne l cyli der If, example, spind e makes is 1 0 revolutions While the cylinder revolved times, the 5 n f r ratio would be An allowance of per ce t . o slippage is sometimes made . The ratio may also be obtained from the speeds o f cylinder and spindle a s determined by a speed indicator ; C in this ase no allowances for slippage need be made . Suppose that the speed of a spinni ng frame cylinder 60 TEXTILE WORLD

f ix . o s is r . p . m and the speeds spindles are as follows : Adding these spindle speeds together we obtain total r revolutions f o r the six spindles . Dividing by the numbe o f spindles the average spindle speed per minute is found to be r . p . m . This divided by the speed of 1 the cylinder gives a ratio o f o r 8 4 revolutions o f the spindle to one of the cylinder . Builders o f spinning frames usually publish tables giving ratios for various sizes of cylinders and whirls . These tables sometimes difi er from each other although representing the same size o f cylinder and Whirl . This

‘ difference may be due either to the method o f calculating the ratio o r t o the shape of the spindle whirl . Some r whirls are made with nar ow, deep grooves, while others ar e shallow and broad . In the first case the bands grip the sides o f the groove instead o f resting o n the bottom i as would be the case Wth a shallow Whirl . Some spinners

' add the diameter o f the band to the diameter o f th e

e m . e whirl and th n ake a straight calculation, whil others : adopt the following method when no ratio is available Add the diameter o f the band to the o f the “diameter whirl and also the diameter of the cylinder ; then calculate w - ith the diameters thus obtained . E xample :If a sp I nnI ng frame cylinder is 7 inches in diameter and makes find the speed o f the 3 spindle having a 74 inc h Whirl and using a spindle band r inch in diamete .

“ i!

X r . p . m . speed of spindles . In this case the ratio would be

SPEED OF RING FRAM E FRONT ROLL

Can y ou give me the sp eed at which the front roll of a ring frame should be run when s pinning 1 5s yarn ? Of course we want the greatest production possible with 1 567 fair quality . ( )

On 1 5s warp with a 7 -inch traverse the front roll

should be run at about 1 65 r . p . m . This gives a theoretical

production of about pounds per week o f 60 hours . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 61

In running filling the speed of the front roll can be increased by several revolutions . A superintendent replies as follows :The speed of front roller on ring frame for spinning 1 5s depends o n the amount o f twist required in the yarn and the quality of

1 80 . . . cotton, but I would say that r p m is a good speed i for this number . I should advise carefully watch ng the ri working of the yarn on the ng frames , and as the o f largest possible production is desired , the speed the front roller should be regulated to give the best result . A great deal depends upon the class of cotton being used and the amount o f waste in the mixing . The “ ” man o n the spot should be best able to determine the most satisfactory draft and speed to be used to obtain the best results , both in production and quality, always bearing in mind that the better the quality the greater

the production . Never sacrifice quality for production .

W H YARN T IST , STRENGT AND CONTRACTION

Are there any tables showing the effect o f different twists upon the strength o f single yarn ? I can also use tables giving the degree o f contraction in ply yarn s

with different amounts o f twist . Have any been pub lished ? (304 5) These are subjects that are receiving increasing attention

in mill practice in some quarters, but no general tables

are known . In the experience o f one wh o has devoted much time to testing the twists and strengths of yarn there f is but one best twist in the great majority o cases . That sa is to y, that up to a point the strength increases with n t o . the twist and beyond that point begi s decline Thu s , to o o r with a few turns few, a few too many, the tensile e strength is appreciably difi r ent. N ot only is the strength s decrea ed by giving a few more turns , but also the -u u t f take p rises o o all proportion . With reference to i the contraction in ply yarns , the inquirer s referred to 1 4 1 91 7 an article in the July , , issue of TE XTILE OR of W LD , which gives the results tests c onducted by TEXTILE WORLD the head of the cotton department o f the Lowell Textile

School . There is no doubt that careful observation o f the effect of the twist has amply repaid some wh o have been to the trouble to make tests with the materials that they are constantly using .

TEM PERAT URE AND SPINDLE LUBRICATION

Please tell me at wha t degree o f frictional heat a spindle ni 22 s r should run , tur ng spinning hosie y

dl . Fo r :R yarn, Whitin gravity spin e example oom ° r 90 F . temperature , at what temp eratu e should the oil in the spindle base be to give perfect lubrication ? Band pull 3099 3 poun ds . ( )

To exactly a nswer these questions would require a series of very careful and quite expensive experiments with a given o il and a frame fitted with tape driven w b o so a s to spindles , ith the rolls and uilder disc nnected record only the power required to drive the spindles . With delicate electrical instruments f-Or recording the amount of power being consumed and means o f heating the spindle bases to any reasonable temperature and also means for maintaining constant temperature of drum il bearing the test could be made for any o . , “ e Assuming that the p rfect lubrication, mentioned in wi e the question , means th the l ast friction, then the room temperature would h ave nothing to do with the question . oil The viscosity of an , or the ease with which it will t t mi n its lubr ic atin flow, is , an impor ant fac or in deter ni g g hi e value . And as the ease with w ch it flows dep nds upon o n a its w temperature, it follows th t room temperature would no t a ffect the question except a s it renders it more or less difficult to maintain the temperature required to make the oil least viscous . “ The most exhaustive tests that we now kn ow of were

“

. H . h . W w o made by the late C J oodbury, conducted a very long series o f experiments to determine this very question . He designed a machine calculated to reproduce as nearly a s possible the conditions o f pressur e and o f n s surface speed a spinning spi dle, and howed as a result of his work a decrease in the coeffi cient o f friction ri as the temperature of the bearing rises . His expe ments COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 63

°

1 30 F . ran as high as , which is as high as a properly o f oiled spindle would probably reach . The results his 1 6 experiments are published in Vols . and of the Transactions o f the American Society of Mechanical

Engineers . A machinery desi“gner to whom this question was put replies as follows :This inquiry cannot be answered by difi er ent a positive statement , as various spindles show phenomena of heat generation . No positive data is known by the writer to be available . Heat in the lubricating o il o f a spindle is produced both by molecular agitation a bso r of oil from the whirling motion set up , and by p tion of frictional heat from the rotating parts , a factor largely determined by condition of surfaces affected by we“ar . A group of Whitin gravity spindles mounted in the regular manner has been observed by the writer to r u n ° °

1 5 F . at temperatures varying from 80 F . to 0 after a - five hour run at r p m . B etween these extremes °

1 1 5 F . would seem to be a fair mean , of temperature of lubricating o il with room overheated to the extent shown ° °

90 F . 1 5 2 0 by temperature of , which is about to above ” a suitable o ne . At our request a spinner made a test on :a Saco spinning frame under the following conditions r . p . m .

s r 24 s . diameter of pindle whirl , inches ; ya n , o f o f Temperature room (middle room at p . 88° F . ; temperature of oil in spindle base registered 9 ° il 5 F . The o in spindle base wa s not in any way discolored and was not fresh oil . This showed the a r lubrication w s satisfacto y . In the opinion of this spinner it is possible to give only an approximate answer to a question of this kind .

POWER FOR SPINNING

Will more o r less power be required to operate a cotton spinning room on 1 7 s than on 29s ? (4 7 6 )

r In answer to the question a s to whether a sp inning room would require more power if makin g 1 7 s yarn 2 9s than it would if making a yarn , unless the exact 64 TEXTILE WORLD conditions can be given we can judge the case only f rom on a mechanical standpoint , which must be based the f character o fl the change and method o making it . We will assume that the hank roving is changed to bring the draft the same in each case, and that the rings b o f and obbins, both when empty and when full, are the same size and weight a s before the c hange wa s made ; in fact the frames are considere d as being operated under ,

‘ c o nditio ns exc e t practically the same , _ p that the yarn is made heavier and contains a smaller number o f turns per inch .

/ u estio n o f Dealing first with the q twist, there are two principal methods by which we can reduce the turns per F b s s inch . irst, y reducing the pindle speed, and ec ond , b n o f the o r y increasi g the speed front roll, the drawing T e is o m a s rolls generally . h first method not s co mon

a not ec if f hic h the second, but s the question does sp y w , it will be well to consider both . is b r edu c I n s If the twist reduced y g the pindle speed , a little less power will be required . A heavier traveler m its f o n s ust be used, but ef ect the power i_ questionable as there is a certain balance maintained between the o a yarn and traveler, which w uld bring the two cl sses t o . n of yarn almost an equilibrium O the other hand , when i ncreasing the speed o f the rollers it may be reasonably assumed that a little more power will be required after the change . The spindle speed will remain o f the same, while the speed the rolls and other parts b o driven y the gearing connecti ns from the twist gear, “ would be driven faster and thus demand more power .

” be f These points must considered in a question o power,

f r ti l although a p ac c a test may no t reveal much difference . ’ It would take more horsepower to r un the 1 7 s. About “ the first thing we do when making such a change is to s change the twi t and draft gears . This increases the as a s ri n speed well the f ctio and power consumed . Another h o r element is the weig t load carried by the spindle .

Now we come to the traveler . Apparently the most o f insignificant part the spinning machine, the traveler ne f is in fact o o the most important . The pull o f the traveler caused by air resistance acting a s a brake o r

' retarding force causes friction . The coarser the yarn

66 TEXTILE WORLD

elec tric oven . Tests in an electric vacuum oven are being made at the present time, and the same results can be 0 ° ° secured at 5 Centigrade and 1 05 Fahrenheit . A mill man replies as follows :Tire duck must be as

s . equal as pos ible in strength, both warp . and filling way ri The filling runs into the cloth without any f ction, while w o f the arp is subj ect to the friction , the harnesses and reed . But the beating up o f the filling weakens it to some extent , so that sley and p ick being equal (which is usually the case in tire duck ) , the breaking strength o f the cloth should be nearly equal both ways . This answer does not apply to all kinds o f goods . It only ar e applies to fabrics that woven for special purposes ,

u . such as tire d ck, airplane fabrics, gas mask cloths , etc i e There s no hard and fast rul governing contraction, in i s either in warp or filling . The contraction the warp governed by the tension on the warp while weaving and i ” . s the strength o f the . filling If the warp run slack , it will bend a r ound the filling ; if the warp is r un tight it o ula will bury itself m re or less in the filling, partic rly if the or the filling I s of a soft nature . Apart from tension

in o t h e . friction the shuttles, the filling g es in cloth free If the filling is very strong and hard (as in the sample submitted ) the warp will not make much impression o n

. m is it The best way to deter ine. the contraction to weave , “ : a yard with an average t ension . Then proceed as follows

_ a n of i f Cut y number _ nches rom the cloth (preferably 1 0 s do a ou t inches , but any maller amount will ) ; t ke a wet to o u t a ll n thread of warp , it take _ crimp , and the measure the thread ; subtract cloth length from thread ; length , and calculate the contraction T o f fi l o f o get contraction l ing, measure the Width warp ac in the reed, then measure the woven cloth, subtr t cloth

Width from reed width and calculate the contraction . The sample submitted has contracted about per

fi . 6 . cent . in the warp , and about per cent in the lling

It must not be inferred that the warp , being under greater strain and tension in weaving , will be weaker in the cloth , for while the filling is not under much strain e when leaving the shuttle, the action of the r ed while beating in the pick has a tendency to weaken the filling

fibres . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 67

YARDS IN A POUND OF YARN

1 H o w many yards are there in pound of cotton, worsted or wool yarn ? (3781 )

1 The number of yards in pound of cotton, worsted or other yarn depends on the fineness or number o f the yarn .

1 84 0 . In a No . cotton yarn there are yards to the pound

560 1 . In a No . 1 worsted there are yards to pound In

- 1 l . wool, there are yards to pound of run yarn

1 0x84 0 1 . N o . 1 0 In a cotton, there are yards in pound

1 1 0x560 1 . In a No . 0 worsted there are yards in pound - 5 5x1 600 1 . In a run wool there are , yards in pound In 1 other words , the number of yards in pound is the product of the yarn multiplied by the standard (84 0 for

560 f o r . cotton, worsted , for wool ) for the material We would recommend that you purchase a good book on yarn calculations , which will make this clearer and also explain other systems used in some sections of the industry and in other countries . A complete catalog of textile books can be obtained Without cost on request to the

B ook Department o f TE XTILE W ORLD .

DUTIES OF BOSS SPINNER I would thank you if you will give me a full explana tion concerning the duties of an over seer of ring spi nning . (397 6 ) The entire responsibility for the ring spinning depart i ment rests upon its overseer, and he should , accord ngly , understand, supervise and be cognizant of every activity occurring Within it . ’ The details of the overseer s work are so many and so varied that it would be next to impossible to list them without incurring the liability of making some omissions . As a general rule he is held entirely responsible for

o f — ll the personnel his department . He is usua y expected to hire his own help . Consequently he should aim to have i a full work ng force as much of the time as possible, yet to employ the minimum number of hands necessar y to o u t turn a full production of go o d quality yarn . He should u se his best judgment in selecting and placing 68 TEXTILE WORLD

who employees, eliminating , when possible, those are unfit, and doing all in his power to encourage and advance those

wh o . are ambitious, intelligent and worthy He should r see that each operative understands his o her duties , f and performs them ef ectively and thoroughly, with the least possible waste of time and materials . He should strive at all times to obtain the largest

” possible production consistent with good quality . Tech nic all y speaking, he should know what speeds and twists are appropriate for the yarns he makes and the equipment i ee at h s disposal . He should s that such speeds and twists are employed and maintained . He should have the d f o r machinery well care , with careful attention to clean

i n . g, oiling and repairing He should see that the waste is kept as lo w as possible and that good care is taken o f the clean waste . So far as it is within his power he should see that his operatives have the necessary supplies to perform their work t properly, yet should try o make no more requisitions “ r I r to for supplies than are positively necessa y . n orde k his r eep room properly balanced , with t the desirable numbe on n of frames each kind of yar , he should keep himself well i nformed as to the requirements of subsequent

d . to epartments Similarly, in order assure himself a sufficient supply of roving he should make his wants - known to the card room overseer .

‘ Few m i so textile ills employ t me clocks , it usually devolves upon the overseer to keep a record of the hours worked by each operative who is employed by the day o r who a on hour, and the units produced by any are p id a piecework basis . a r e a There usually v rious reports regarding production, o e yarn sizings and strength tests , waste pr duced , spe ds , ’l

. o er seer s du t v twists , etc , which it becomes the v y to pro ide l at stated interva s . In larger mills the overseer fre quently is allowed to employ a clerk for the purpose o f making o u t f or such reports as those mentioned , and the time keeping and such payroll work as is no t performed in the office . Most overseers find it desirable to take daily sizings Of no t and strength tests their yarns , whether or they are required to do so COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 69

To mention in greater detail the technical matters with which the overseer is expected to keep in close - touch, he should see that the roll covering is being

properly done, that no damaged rolls are in use , that rolls which are in good condition are not sent to be

repaired, that spindles are properly set , that ring rails and drawing rolls are level ; that thread guides are properly

set ; that suitable travelers as to weight , size, and quality

are in use and that they are not wasted , that worn rings

are eliminated , that the builder motions are so set as to

put the maximum amount of yarn upon the bobbin , that dofi ed frames are not until the bobbins are full , that s i frame are not stopped unnecessarily, that rov ng or yarn

is not mixed and that yarn is properly marked, that the

rolls are properly set , that the proper change gears are

in service, and that the frames are properly banded . It is possible to increase the ab’ove list, but we believe it to be sufficient for the inquirer s purposes .

AVERAGE COUNT OF YARN

How is the average count of yarn found in a spinning ? 2 2s room o n mixed numbers At this time I am making , 24 s 2 6 30s 22 s o n , s and ; about spindles on , 2 4 s on 26s o n 30s . , , What is the average number ? (57 7 )

The average count of y arn of different sizes is the average number of hanks per pound and this c annot be calculated from the spindles and counts . If the length Of the yarn spun in a mill were in proportion to the number o f o f spindles irrespective the size of yarn, a rule could be given f or calculating the average count from the difler ent of o n counts and the number spindles each , but hi t s is never the case . The length spun depends on the speed o f the rolls which varies widely with different counts, and in fact for the same count . Again , the o f f z a fi ec ted production the dif erent si es is by breakdowns, doffing and other things which are never uniform on all i i mach nes in a room . Ow ng to these’varying factors the average count of a spinning mill s production varies wa constantly . The only y it can be calculated is from the diff erent counts and the quantity of each (expressed 7 0 TEXTILE WORLD

either by length o r weight ) p r oduced in any given time . The following example illustrates the method

E xample . A spinning mill produced pounds of ne l 0 s 30 8 yarn in o day ; pounds , pounds ,

4 0 F . pounds s . ind average count for that day pounds 1 0s hanks pounds 30 s hanks pounds 4 08 hanks

pounds hanks 25 (hanks ) (pounds ) , average

count o r hanks per po und .

If the product is given in hanks instead - o f pounds the op eration is as follows hanks 1 0s pounds hanks 3 0s pounds hanks 4 0s pounds

hanks pounds 25 (hanks ) (pounds ) , average

count o r hanks per pound .

This method is correct f or any fixed weight method of a s o r yarn numbering such cotton, worsted, run linen system .

DIVISION OF COS TS ON C OTT ON YARN S

Here is a question which puzzles u s and to which we find no answer in our reading of trade and techn ical ~ t i papers . Possibly y ou c an help us o secure nformation in regard to the factors which affect the price o f cotton o f is yarns . What percentage of the price cotton yarn o f represented by the price raw material , what percentage o o ? by wages, amount of p r duction and other fact rs (3975) The percentages of cotton yarn costs which are r ep r e f o r f o r sented in cost raw material , cost for labor, over i head , etc . , are in normal times fairly constant for certa n f ew ear s numbers of yarn . During the past y , and up to e d the present tim , these ratios have fluctuate widely, due COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 71

to sudden and marked alterations in cotton prices , the periodic advances in wage schedules , and the constant increases in such overhead items as fuel costs, taxes, supply costs, etc .

There never has been a time, however, when any such set of ratios would hold good for all classes and numbers 2 0s 4 0 s . Fo r of yarn instance , we may spin yarn and yarn from the same cotton and in both cases remove the same amount of waste , with the result that the material ifi er costs for both yarns would be practically identical . D enc e s in production and labor and machinery requirements, f o r however, would cause the labor and overhead costs the 4 0s yarn to be markedly higher than for the 2 0s ne yarn . Thus the ratios applicable in o case would not be appropriate in the other .

We have, nevertheless , attempted to give some sort of reply to the inquirer by computing costs o n four widely ff di erent varieties of yarn , reducing the costs to per centages representing labor costs , overhead costs , and cotton costs . These percentages are intended to cover all the items entering into the manufacture of cotton yarn except selling expense, which depends largely upon the selling price Obtained . The percentages are based upon current cost figures . The results follow :

22 s CARDED WARP YARN

Labor cost 21 per cent . O 1 1 verhead cost per cent . 68 Cotton cost per cent .

1 0 0 per cent . 4 4 8 CARDED FILLING YARN 22 Labor cost per cent . O 1 3 verhead cost per cent . 65 Cotton cost per cent .

1 00 per cent . 50 s COM BED WARP YARN 2 Labor cost 5 per cent . O 1 7 verhead cost per cent . 58 Cotton cost per cent .

1 00 per cent . TEXTILE WORLD

1 00 8 COM BED FILLING YARN Labor cost 2 Overhead cost 2 per cent .

Cotton cost 4 9 per cent .

1 00 per cent .

f o f In reply to the question as to the ef ect production , we would say that about 50 per cent . of the labor cost per

90 . unit, and about per cent of the overhead cost per

c . unit , are inversely proportional to the produ tion Thus ,

“ in the above cases the percentage o f the total cost which — e a n dec r ease in is increas d in proportion to y r production 21 er t o 35 . ranges from per cent . p cent

DETERM INING YARN NUM BER AN D TWIST Kindly advise us as to the proper way to determine the number o f cotton yarns ? Also how to get the cable on various cotton cords . I am called upon frequently to give this information On samples sent to u s from manu f a c tu r er s o a , and as we have n equipment for the bove work m I would apprecia te any informa tion you may give e . (31 1 0 )

The number o f cotton yarn is usually determined by h f weig ing a known length o i yarn on grain scales and then calculating t h e number from the weight a nd length . Tables are available which shOw the weight o f a given length for ea ch count Or size o f yarn and save the time f required for calculations . A good publication o this character is Simplex Yarn Tables . This book and ’“ ” Whitworth s Practical Cotton Calculations would be o f E E R assistance . They may be Obtained from T XTIL W O LD

Book Department at the New York Office . Yarn numbers may also be determined by calculating ba lances that are on the market . With regard tO ' h o w to get the cable o n various cotton

o f . cords , this question is susceptible two interpretations Assuming that y o u mean how is the cable effect obtained o f on cotton cords would say, that usually a number ply threads are doubled together and a final twist is inserted in the direction opposite to that of the first doubling f twist . If your question re ers to how the twist in the

( 4 TEXTILE WORLD

E! UIPM ENT F OR A YARN PLANT Please outline for us the necessary equipment for a cotton yarn spinning plant with an annual production of to pounds o f combed and carded ply 2575 a s 2 08 50 8 . y rns, size to ( )

It would be quite a difficult matter to outline the nec es hi sary equipment for such a plant as inquirer desires . T s

' F r is a wide ra nge of numbers for such a small plant . o 2 0 . 8 example, for lbs of , spindles would be hi ndl b e necessary, W le spi es would necessary for 0 hi 5 8 yarn with the other mac nery in proportion . Assum

” ing 35s to be th e average number it would be necessary o ne of hi 6 s 2 0 e to have set picker mac nery, card , deliv ries i 80 ndl 2 00 dl e draw ng, slubber spi es , intermediate spin s , fin e dl ni i dl s i spin es , spin ng sp n e , tw ster 2 dl ndl 00 . spi es , spooler spin es

For combing it w ould be necessary to . have 2 sliver n s 1 1 5 - s lap machi e , ribbon lapper, six head comber ,

- dr . in extra awing, etc _ There is quite a range p rices on C hi r otton mac nery and the e are times w hen a. great savin g i could be made in buy ng .

C ONDITIONING RO OM FOR C OTTON YARN

Referring to your recent letter in regard to keeping it o W yarn in proper cond i n, regarding moisture, e have ri ne- o k arranged a small b ck, o story wareh u se, with bric w hi of floor, ith a spray in one end w ch can keep part the ri i z s b ck wall wet . We could arrange add tional noz le for i e we not n spray ng more ar a, but do k ow whether more moisture will cause the yarn to mildew . Would you n d mil h ow we ki dly advise what con itions cause dew, and can keep the yarn as moist a s possible without danger from it ? (421 3 )

Mildew is caused by the presence of mildew or mold s and spore and conditions of temperature, time moisture c s l which encourage their growth . It is not ne e sari y due to excessive moisture ; this is only a contributing c ause . If more moisture is necessary to bring the yarn to standard condition we would arrange additional nozzl es, and guard COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 75 against the introduction of the spores and their develop v sh ella c ed ment by ha ing all racks and cases , transferring material to these racks and cases from the shipping cases in which it is received , and not leaving the yarn in the conditioning room too long . It would be a good plan to thoroughly cleanse the room with soap and water mi rk periodically . A system ght be wo ed out for testing each lot of yarn as it was put in storage to determine its susceptibility to mildew growth . A useful method is to suspend the test sample in a closed jar containing some water . The jar is kept in a dark, preferably warm , room for 5 to 7 days . If attacked by mold in this time the lot from which the sample was taken can be removed n from the conditio ing room .

TWIST IN PLY COTTON YARNS In purchasing ply yarn we have noticed that some spinners calculate the turns to the inch, using some ratio based on the square root of the number of the yarn ; hr ul two , three, four and six ply t ead twist being calc ated diff n erently than warp twist, mercerizi g twist, embroidery

. hi twist, etc Kindly inform us if t s is a general practice and the character of form that is used to derive the difi er ent e 4 389 r sults and reason for using same . ( )

In single yarns, the twist depends upon the strength e in ni and softness desired . G enerally sp ak g, a k tting yarn fill t should be soft, a ing yarn may be a li tle harder and

a warp yarn must sacrifice softness for strength . For these, the following expression is used to determine the

twists per inch . Square root of the counts multiplied by a constant called the twist multiplier equals the twists i l per inch . Usually it is wr tten as fol ows :

T . P . M X \/ C I .

The multipliers vary somewhat, but the following are commonly used : Hosiery Yarns to Fillin g Yarns to Warp Yarns to The matter of twisting ply yarns has never been given to enough general attention have it standardized . To TEXTILE WORLD standardize the details o f ply twisting it would be nec es sary to conduct a vast amount of research .

When plying yarn , the twist is usually in the opposite direction to that used for, and varies with the amount put

n . e into, the si gle yarn A hard twist d single yarn requir es mor e ply twist than a soft twisted single . “ ” W is hen a balanced yarn is desired, that , one which does not kink o r twist o n itself when held in a U shaped is f w loop , there for each single twist a dif erent ply t ist

o n f , necessary . Mills some particular work o this type ri have , by t al , found the correct ply twist to go with their single twist and some may have a rule for deter min ‘

t mm n . . s o s are no c o o ing it If , these rule knowledge r xa l Not all yarns are balanced ; f o e mp ey many sewing

h . threads are ard twisted _ Being run through water just “ ” s to set so before twisting cause the , twist be and the thread does not kink after being twisted . In most cases the ply twist p er inch is determined by using the square root o f th e fina l p ly yarn siz e multiplied r ha by some constant o multiplier . The equation s the same form as that used f o r single yarns but th e counts ' are the counts o f the ply yarn and not o f the single yarn .

M X Ply counts T . P . I . ' The count o f the ply yarn berc is supposed to be the o f divided b o f count the single y arn x y the number strands n I s in the ply yarn . Usually , the ply yar slightly n fi in wa o f heavier than the yar size gured this y , bec ause

~ a certain contraction dur ing the plying process . This

” be b 2 contraction varies , but very often will etween and w 4 50 2 l e . 8 d per cent , meaning that a yarn, p y , would 2 24 n ot 5s 8 . become a , but more likely a Fo r n material like embroidery yarn and knitting yar , f o r t ply twist would be q uite soft, while o her purposes “ the twist may be medium - or hard . The f ollowing list gives some ply twist multipliers in common u se : r 2 Very soft yarn (embroide y ) . Soft yarn (knitting ) to

Medium, around

Hard and up . R w the emember that these multipliers , are used ith square root o f t he ply yarn counts and not with the square root o f the single yarn counts . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 7 7

If o ne is anxious to use the single yarn counts rather than the ply yarn counts , the following equations might be used : 7 2 ply yarn . 7 0 X M X \/ C 57 7 3 ply yarn . X M

4 p ly ya r n . 5 4 4 7 5 ply yarn . X M 4 08 6 ply yarn . X

BREAKING STRENGTH S OF THREE -PLY COTTON YARNS

Will you please send us a table o f breaking strengths f o r - 1 8 30 8 ? three ply cotton yarns, to , if possible (4 21 2 )

We believe that a table o f breaking strengths o f three ply cotton yarns has never been published , although many manufacturers no doubt have worked o u t such tables for their own uses . A rough method employed by mill men to calculate breaking strengths of three -ply yarns is to multiply the breaking strength of the single yarn, as given in Draper Tables, by three and add ten per cent . to the product . This works out very satisfactory provided that i the ply twist s correctly balanced .

F r 3 o example :A 0 8 warp breaking 57 lbs . would have a three - ply break of 57 (break of single ) X 3 (ply ) 1 72 plus (1 0 per cent . )

RATINE YARN M ANUFACTURING

Will you please advise us in detail just h o w to make ratine yarns using 68 and 2 08 yarn ? (4 335) Ratine yarns are fancy yarns having nubs or bunches at intervals . These intervals may vary and the size o f the bunches may vary . The finer o f the two yarns is usually fed at a slower rate than the coarse o ne o r inter mi e l tt nt . y The finer yarn, then, is straight at all times and the coarser yarn either winds about it at a constant

rate, or in bunches when the finer yarn stops . Thus e the finer yarn tak s the strain in weaving . 7 8 TEXTILE WORLD

The bunches made with o ne Operation of twisting may o ne slip . Often two twisting operations are used , as just described and then another which serves to bind the bunches by twisting this nub yarn with another yarn . Sometimes a s pinning frame is arranged to handle this work by running o ne yarn under o ne roll and the Other n under another and arranging o e to drive intermittently . Fo r 6 2 0 a 8 and a 8 no specific. detail can be given unless the intervals between nubs and; the size o f the nubs ‘ n i desired is given . In additio it would be well t o g ve the twists per inch in the single yarn s . Any builder o f fancy

' twisters will gladly furnish data f r esp ec ting twisters f o r

o . r 6 20 d ing this work Howeve , by first twisting s and s 2 08 a ub together, feeding the intermittently, n yarn will

. n th result Then, reversi g the twist, and twisting e ply yarn just formed with another 2 08 the inquirer should get a a yarn such s he desires .

ALLOWABLE VARIATION I N YARN SIZES

u s h o 1 2 8 1 4 308 Please advise w much , 8, and

— i . cotton yarn should vary n weight . I mean what per cent o n 2 0 4 001 reelings o f 0 yards . ( )

N O standards have ever been set covering the allowable variations in weights of cotton yarns . Trade custom allows a variation o f about two numbers up and two f , r i ltie numbers down . There a e d fi c u s in the way o s etting Fo r standard variations which would be allowable .

” o o f c o example, in cops, the top and the b ttom the p may vary from two to three numbers ; Under ordinary “

- moisture c onditions the s ame yarn tested at 6 per cent . moisture content and at 1 0 per cent . moisture content may vary four numbers . E ri on In ngland, the following va ations are allowed c o tton yarns :

1 to 1 0 8 per cent . 1 1 2 0 to 8 per cent . 21 4 to 08 per cent . 4 0 8 Above per cent .

the a There are no similar standards in United St tes . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 7 9

As the inquirer mentions variations in a reeling o f 2 00 yards, it may be mentioned that yarn sized by the lea or skein will not show as much variation as shorter lengths of say 1 2 inches . This may be due partly to an averaging up process in greater lengths of yarn , and it is also due to the tension in reeling .

H RELATIONS OF FIBRE LENGT , YARN H TWIST , STRENGT AND ELASTICI TY In the course of developing a new line of yarns we have felt the need of some theories on which to base our manu facture, and write to ask if you can either direct us to such publication as may deal with the question o r deduce the various relationships for us . We are particularly interested to know what relations exist between tensile strength and elasticity of a yarn ; the length of its fibres , 3954 and the twist of the single and ply yarn . ( )

There is one publication which we know of , and have seen, that deals in the relationship between strength and “ é é elasticity of yarns . It is the Bulletin de la Soci t ”

1 907 . Industrielle de Mulhouse, April , , by M Charles e ff G gau . This publication was illustrated with curves of w the strength and elasticity, plotted against the t ist ri multiplier for va ous yarn numbers .

Very briefly, the strength increased up to a certain 4 23s multiplier such as about to for yarn , and then wa remained the same for a short y, and dropped abruptly .

The elasticity increased throughout the experiments . o f In the treatment elasticity in this publication, the u difi er entiates a thor between elasticity and stretch . H e to is refers elasticity as the stretch which recoverable, whereas the usual textile conception of elasticity refers to total stretch . If the inquirer ha s the proper c onc ep tio n of elasticity he will understand that it is very difficult to obtain an elasticity greater than the e lasticity

of the individual fibres . There are two ways of inc r eas o f ing elasticity individual fibres . One is by twisting them so that their angle with the axis of the yarn is is mi increased , and the other possibly by che cal treatment . On the other hand, if the inquirer wishes to change the 80 TEXTILE WORLD

o f stretch the yarn , it may be governed by the twist , and the more twist that is put in up to the limit of that which the fibres will allow, the stretch will be correspondingly increased . Fo r the same twist of single yarn , the elasticity may be increased by twisting the ply in the same direction as the singles . The strength will be reduced . If the ply is w t isted in the opposite direction, the strength is increased , t and the stretch is decreased . It is possible o modify this by starting with diff erent twists into singles yarn . Regarding the relation between the length o f fibres and the strength , it must be considered that the length and e the surface characteristics of the fibr s are the determining. Fo r - factors . instance , if a inch cotton has a satis it il factory surface, w l make a yarn practically as strong 1 1 - as a 4 inch cotton , which has practically no surface - characteristics over inch at the tip . Assuming the s the same surface characteri tics , longer cottons will pro i e duce the stronger yarn , and because they do not requ r t as much twis , the stretch is less, but the elasticity may be greater . The inquirer will find an illustrated article in th e 1 4 1 92 0 E E OR o n August , , issue of T XTIL W LD the e hi t r lations p of twist, strength, and elasticity in co ton hi wa s n yarns . T s article based o a study carried out at the Lowell Textile School .

REASON FOR DIRE CTION or TWI ST

' Will you kindly answer why some manufacturers use right twist in making thread ? (374 4 ) The effect of twist is primarily to give to the Collection a nd and of fibres a certain strength elasticity, secondly to r get a desired appearance or luster . The fi st is obtained by the number of turns to which the fibres are subjected . The second is derived from the number of turns and the direction in which they are inserted . In a collection o f fibres o f unif orm diameter and o f f w t quantity, that is , similar counts, the direction o t is t a fi ec will not , in the first wisting (single yarn ) t the r l so appea ance , the uster, the strength , or the elasticity, r long as the numbe of convolutions remains the same .

82 TEXTILE WORLD

r In single yarns, all other facto s being equal , direction afi e t of twist will not c strength or cost . In ply yarns 6-1 2 -1 5 d f . o ( ply cabled , etc ) the iversity of methods tu isting is so intricate that every attribute o f the finished fi te product may be a ec d . The above are the basic principles o n which all yarns

or threads should be produced . The large E nglish manu f a c tu i er s o f i sew ng threads , cables and crochet yarn , wh o have been established for generations , still consider it necessary to conduct experiments o n the effect of

wi . F direction and amount of t st abric manufacturers also ,

perhaps to a lesser degree, follow the same course . Why a manufacturer uses a certain direction Of twist ffi d is di cult to ecide, except on the general principles

stated .

STRENGTH or 3 -PLY SEWING THREADS

I un derstand that thread has a standard strain which F r n e . o s each count will stand without breaking i tanc , that 3 - ply 60 8 thread made from combed yar n should stand a strain of 3 % pounds ; 3 - ply 7 0 8 s hould stand

pounds . Is this correct ? I want to buy some thread f and was of ered a line today, but it seemed very Weak . h i The salesman said it sto od the test . W at s the breaking test f o r 3 -ply 608 and 3 -ply 7 OS‘ ? (331 4 )

‘ t 3 - l sewin thr eads - h The s rength of p y g will vary _wit the

7 ‘ fi br e u sed mi h as quality of cotton , presu ng each the “ required a mount o f twist? The strengths the inquirer “ mentions suggest either an Egyptian o r a S ea Island , n o r combed thread . Thes e again will vary if plai if w sized and polished . The follo ing are the approximate weights a single thread should support befor e breaking : E GYPTIAN Plain Sized

b . l s . lbs

lb . lbs . s

SE A ISLAND Plain Sized

. lbs . l_ bs l bs . lbs . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 83

M AKING KNOTTED YARN Can you give me any information as to how the enclosed sample of knotted yarn is made ? Can it be made on a o r spinning frame twister, and does the roll stop when the nub is being made ? How can the knot be bound so the reed in the loom will not shift it ? (3357 )

This yarn is 2 -ply and is made o n a twister having ne two sets o f rollers . O thread passes through each set of rollers, one of which is stopped at intervals . The yarn from the other set is delivered without interruption and forms a knot when the other set is stationary . The knot is sometimes fastened so that it will not slip in weaving 2 - by twisting a binding thread around the ply, making - 2 - 3 . a ply yarn If it is desired to use the ply yarn , a coarse reed should be used in the loom and the yarn should be well sized so as to prevent the slipping o f o r the bunches knots as they pass through the reed .

STIFFNESS IN M ERCERI ZED YARN

We have a lot o f yarn in stock like the enclosed sample is 4 0/2 C R which , mercerized, processed in the warp and o n ar ellel c put up p tubes . This yarn has been in sto k since last September, at which time we used the greater f part o it but still have remaining several hundr ed pounds . The character of the yarn has changed during the inter val to such an extent that it is impossible for us to work n f i it o account o the stiffness o f it . We would l ke to know the cause o f this and also h ow it can be avoided in the future . Is there any way o f sof tening this yarn in i ts . i e . o n ? present form, , parallel tubes

On o f account of the color the yarn at the present time, it is not possible to apply the sensitive tests necessary to determine the state of acidity o r alkalinity which might n f have some beari g on the stif condition now present . hi Cases like t s have been noticed with sulphur blacks, i but th s does not appear to be a sulphur color . In the absence of any definite tests which will positively identif y the cause of the trouble we may assume that the sizing 84 TEXTILE WORLD contained too small a quantity o f o il o r grease to impart flexibility to the yarn and that it was wound in a dry n condition . There are machines o the market at the f present time which are capable o treating tubes , spools and cones with uniformity and we suggest that the yarn be treated with a solution of a cotton softener o r soluble o il e , which would result in a great improvement, what ver the cause .

HAWSER AN D CABLE TWIST

I would appreciate your help in solving a — little problem that I have been trying to settle a s to the technical differ “ ” “ ” ence in hawser and cable as applied to the twisting t and plying o f cotton yarn . I have always though that “ ” hawser meant yarn and first plying of the same hand an of twist d the last plying the opposite twist , and for “ ” n t cable yarn o e hand twis , first plying reverse twist and next plying same twist a s the yarn . In other words the cable i s alternating twist and the hawser two twists 21 39 in the same direction, then reverse . ( )

” Cable twist applied to cotton yarn means that the first twist is opposite to the twist with which the yarn is spun .

T he is r so on . next twist opposite to the fi st, and “ ” Hawser twist means that , the first twisting is in the same direc tion as the twist with which the yarn is spun .

- r The next twist is in t he opposite direction . The y arn f o “ ” ‘ is s uh so f ter _so Hawser twist p and with less twist, that m o f a r it per its twisting again in the s me direction, othe wise it would kink up .

HIGH P OLI SH FOR C OTTON YARN

We are desirous of finishing cotton yarn with a high polish that is waterproof to the extent of not injuring the high polish when the yarn comes in contact with water . Can you give u s a formula o r directions f or such a finish (4 54 9 )

A high polish o n yarn is usually obtained by means of i the friction, but we do not know whether it s purpose of to this inquirer adopt that method . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 85

n ul Waterproofi g varnishes are common , the most usef being made from shellac . After being applied to the yarn r o thread and dried , the latter is subjected to friction to develop the luster . Another waterproofing substance is

Japan wax . This is dissolved in water with the aid of

° crystal soda . The proportions follow 1 3 Water, gallon ; Japan wax, pounds ; crystal soda ,

1 pound . The exact strength of this solution must be determined according to the conditions of its use . Fo r some purposes it is diluted with starch paste, but it is believed that for the present purpose this would not be satisfactory .

Caseine, in the form of a solution made with ammonia , seems to be practical for the purpose . It not only takes a luster but it is waterproof to a great extent . A caseine solution is prepared as follows :The caseine is stirr ed up with a little water to make a thin paste, then add one f tenth o ammonia or borax on the weight of the caseine . The resulting solution is to be diluted to the proper consistency . Another method of waterproofing which when finished will take a polish is to prepare a solution of gelatine in o f m water the proper consistency, i pregnate the thread with it and afterward treat with a solution of chrome alum o r formaldehyde . This will efi ec t a hardening o f the gelatine, permitting imparting a luster when i fin shed .

Without samples of the yarn it is d'esired to water i lt proof and luster before us , it is with d fi ic u y that work ing processes can be given .

WARP YARN STICKING TOGETHER IN BEAM ING

We ar e enclosing a piece of warp yarn which we would ask you to examine and advise us why this sticks together when beaming . (31 02 )

There are several reasons f o r yarn sticking together in n beami g . A first glance at the yarn led to a belief that the cause of the sticking together was acids used f or the 6 TEXTILE WORLD

o f purpose fastening the color, but a little soap and e water soon dispelled this illusion, as w have seldom seen a more fugitive color . It might be caused by loading the o f yarn for the purpose obtaining the desired shade, but we think in this instance the stickiness w a s c aused by too high a pressure of steam in the dye box when the to yarn was passing through it . If o much steam is used to it has a tendency blow the liquid to one side, thus allowing the steam to come in direct contact with the yarn and open u p the fibres . This condition cannot wet f readily be seen when the yarn is , but the process o ‘ to c lin to eth er drying will cause the opened fibres g g , thus producing the stickiness c omplained o f . I might also add

ame s nditi n that the s c o o obtains in chain sizing .

C ORKS CREW RE FECT I N PL Y YARN

Will y ou please advise . me the best method o f usi ng a - 2 0 twister in or der to get a uniformly twisted 1 1 ply No . 4 - yar n ? We are using a twister with a % inch ring, two n T he lines of rollers with o e top roll contact driven . twisted thread has a tendency to corkscr ew in twisting t et which decreases the breaking strength . I Wish o g an l l -ply thread well rounded and each thread o f the same i t e tension . It s important hat w get the highest breaking ‘ n r strength p o ssible i the ply yarn . Any info mation y ou c an a s to th o f m of give me e style guide eye, ethod ' the r Olls oth er data be threading through , speeds and w ill 21 1 9 appreciated . ( )

The appearance o f this yarn would indicate that the n f a tension o the dif erent spools in the creel w s not alike, ' so a s to make the twist slightly uneven and cause some

“ o f the threads to ride on the others . We think that per o f o as a s o r haps some the spo ls were not full others, some of them dragged o n the creel pins much harder than

others to cause this uneven tension . There I s no special requirement needed in the twister for

twisting yarn intended for automobile tire duck . Builders make in great numbers twisters of and 6 inch space to 5 6 take and inch rings, to inch traverse, with f o r 1 0 a nd 2 o r creels 1 ply, twist from beams with single COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 87

line of top and bottom rolls . Other details the same as an

ordinary twister, for any class of work except possibly

what is required for extra heavy twisting .

TWINE M ANUFACTURING COSTS

We are small manufacturers of cotton wrapping twine, 4 - . 8 . No , ply only We are not in intimate connection with mill centers a nd have not the opportunity of com n pari g costs with our fellow manufacturers, as possibly others are who are more centrally lo c ated and have the

- inter change of ideas with one an other . It has occurred to the writer that possibly you may have in your possession , or you may be in a position to 8 give us some manufacturing costs on this item, No . , 4 — w a ply t ine, which you underst nd is put up on cones and balls for the store trade . If you have this informa r tion , we would appreciate learning f om you the same in detail as to the cost of the difi er ent processes a nd the cost of the finished product with special reference to the labor charge . We might say that we have formerly operated by steam power, but have recently changed over to electric drive, purchasing our power from our local company . We use in our twine strict low cotton and sometimes to reduce the cost, cotton of a little lower quality than sample, which would not be graded, together with twine strips . Ou r output is practically one ton per day but ou r overhead is divided with other lines which we manu facture in a much larger way . An y information which you can give us regarding the t f e cost, depreciation hrough the dif erent process s , etc . , will be appreciated by us . (4 04 5) The f ollowing cost figures are intended to be representa F 1 921 norther manu tive of those current in ebruary, , in n f ac tur ing districts where the 4 8-hour weekly schedule is in eff ect . The recent wage reduction of per cent . h as been allowed for . LABO R COSTS The cost per pound o f yarn for the labor during the picking, carding and drawing processes would amount 88 TEXTILE WORLD

was in all to about o ne cent . Assuming that the yarn spun in single creel from hank intermediate roving, or thereabouts , the entire labor cost at the slubbers and intermediates would approximate eight -tenths o f a cent 1 2 per pound . A normal labor cost f o r spinning s yarn - on ring frames is three and o ne half cents per pound . Spooling would cost about seven -tenths of a cent per ne- e pound for labor . O half a c nt per pound would be a o s fair labor cost at the twisting pr ces , and a like amount he should cover the labor c qst f o r winding . T total labor cost should accordingly be in the vicinity o f seven cents per pound . OVE RHEAD COSTS The following overhead costs include fair allowances f o r f depreciation o buildings and machinery, but do not include any allowance for interest o n the money invested a s in the pl nt and material . Selling commissions, also , have not been allowed for . The overhead costs at the various p rocesses should fi gure about as follows :

“ Fo r picking, carding and drawing . At slubbers a nd intermediates Fo r spinning Fo r spooling Fo r twisting For winding

s Total o verhead 4 . 3 cents per lb

Plenty o f strict low middling cotton of staple suitable for this yarn has been bought recently for thirteen cents

5 . per pound in the bale . Probably about 1 per cent net waste would be removed during manufacture o f the yarn . This would make the cost o f cotton per pound of yarn about fifteen and three tenths cents . n th a Summarizi g e foregoing estimates, the tot l cost per pound is found to be a s f ollows

La bor cost per pound Overhead cost p er pound Cotton cost per pound

Total cost per pound cents

90 TEXTILE WORLD

a Third , nother method and probably the best practice two z z is to use si e boxes , or what is termed a double Si e z f e box o n o ne slasher . The si e in one o the size box s is tinted with a weak shade that will easily wash out during meth o d is the finishing of the cloth . This largely used s in mills where crepe yarns are sized and it is the best and cheapest method for the yarn is only handled onc e . If the cloth is of a very high sley and the yarn is very ne o ne fi , the third method would be the to use , for all practical weavers know that yarn will lose strength dur r e min ing the bea g process .

TENSION ! I N WIN DING

We have quite a number of Universal winding machines . All o u r filling is wound o n these machines and no matter o r o f n what size quality “ yar is wound the man in charge

o n . Fo r allows the same weights the tension instance , we a 24 8 o f low e 1 2 8 h ve some yarn a quality, and som yarn which is o f better quality . There a r e three weights

a 1 2 0 s . r used for tension, e ch weighing grain These th ee weights a r e left o n f o r the 24 s yarn which is only half 2 the thickness o f the 1 s and o f poorer quality. The result is that the 24 s yarn breaks Very often and is made a lo t n weaker from having to o much weight o the tension . I have explained to the man that when starting the diff erent Sizes o f yarn o n thes e winders he Should take particular to o o f on te notice not to, have many the weights the nsion so as to strain the yar n, but my advice does not seem

“

his . to alter ideas Therefore, I would like to have you answer the question about tension to be used for different z o f i man si es yarn, which I think will conv nce this that better results will be Obtained in the weaving department . (2 983 )

fi to O o f The dif culty in trying _ convince the verseer the

” error in failing to change tension o n yarn with the change in number is probably due t o his efi o r ts to produce a cone equally as dense with the 24 s yarn as he is accustomed ' f 1 2 s ar n . O u se to get with the y course, he should not the same number o f grains weight for yarn o ne-half the

f n . tensile strength o the other yar He Should use: weights approximately two -thirds as great o n the 24 s yarn as he 1 2 a 24 0 does o n the s y rn . This would make grains weight COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 91

o f in a tension device . If the yarn is exceptionally poor quality and of low elasticity, it might even be necessary to come down to 2 00 grains in weight at the tension de vice . At any rate , the tension weights should be reduced partly in proportion to the number of yarn and partly in proportion to the quality, striking a compromise between the two .

SIZING FORM ULA FOR COTTON YARNS IVill you kindly recommend one or two sizing formulas 1 0 for 8 skein duck yarn mineral dyed , for awning ma 4 0 4 teri al? Same will be greatly appreciated . ( 5 )

When sizing 1 0 8 skein mineral dyed duck yarn the fact that the dye deposits a stiffening mineral matter in the fibre should be considered in selecting a suitable size that will not have a tendency to make a boardy finished ffi product . A suitable formula which should give an e cient weaving quality to the yarn is as follows :

1 00 gallons of water . 80 f pounds o corn starch . 4 0 o f pounds potato starch . 1 5 pounds of beef tallow . Stir thoroughly in cooker for 8 or 1 0 minutes before i applying heat, then bring to a boil as qu ckly as possible . Then shut off steam and reduc e the mixture to 1 7 5 degrees F . , and maintain same for use . If the finish is too harsh , decrease the corn and potato starch in equal proportions and increase temperature to 1 85 degrees F . This procedure carefully adhered to should give a satis the factory sizing to the yarn, and dye in question should f not be af ected with regard to brilliancy in the finish .

PAINTING IRON STARCH TANK We have an iron starch tank which we intend to use mi o ur for xing size solutions of starch . What would you advise painting o r coating the inside of this tank with to prevent rusting ? (387 9 ) The iron starch tank should be thoroughly cleaned out o r and no painting coating Should be put on the inside . If the tank is to be used daily for mixing and boiling 92 TEXTILE WORLD

f size there will be no trouble from rust . Hundreds o

plants are using iron kettles today . Kettles can also be o f bought with copper lining , and these, course, are rust

proof . Jacketed iron kettles can also be bought and with this type the size is not weakened by the condensed

steam . A superintendent replies to this question as follows : If I were going to use an iron tank for sizing solutions

l ! t I would not have it painted at al . I would wash it ou

well every night and leave it clean and dry . This will f give less trouble than painting it . The changes o temp ) er a tu r e k is su b ec ted to I ff that the tan j ‘ will, am sure, a ect e siz any paint that may be us d , and give trouble in the

e ff r . i ng. It will p el o and rust will break th ough There t would be considerable expense O keep the paint renewed . On the other hand a little time each night to clean the tank ou t and rub over the surface with softener will insure satisfactory results . I have had trouble with iron starch tanks that were painted and had th e trouble o f ll i t cleaning o ff a the pa nt and adop ing the above method . Perhaps the best method is to fi ne the inside o f the tank with a thin lining of Sheet copper . The first cost is the entire cost and it will prevent trouble with any kind o f

Si ze .

SIZING F OR B L AC K T C OTTON YARN Can y ou give me a good reci pe f o r sizing blac k cotton yarn in the dressing ? (1 969 )

“ I would advise the f ollo Wing ingredients to be used for a sizing intended for black cotton yarn : 2 5 gals . water .

2 l . 5 bs starch . l 1 0 b . s dextrin .

2 lbs . Turkey red o il. 1 1 4 lbs . tallow .

Boil well for ten minutes. It is presumed that the yarn in question is in the form o f a warp and that the sizing o n n will be applied a ball warp sizing machi e, in which r z case only o ne un through the si e Should be given . This

“ method of sizing black yarn leaves the color in a bright

condition without decreasing its intensity . It also gives i a fullness to the yarn and only a slight increase n weight . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 3

SLASHER BLANKETS

Please advise me as to the best slasher blanket to use for 308 cotton yarn run on a cylinder slasher . Is it a good plan to cover the regular blanket with cotton sheet ing ? (2 4 69 ) I get very good results on 2 68 and 2 8s warp yarn by using a 1 3 ounce all-wool blanket on the front o r finish ing roll and an 1 8 ounce mixed blanket on the back roll . I always card about an inch of the end of the blanket to prevent the edge from making a streak across the warp . ‘ Although I have never used a cotton covering o n my blankets I have seen it used to good advantage on colored warps Where the least streak would be objectionable .

SIZING WARP F OR TAPE

Kindly advise what would be the best method for sizing carded yarn such as is used in producing the at ta h e c d sample of tape . Also advise what would be a good formula to use for making a size solution and the tem p er a tu r e at which the solution should be maintained dur n i ing the sizi g operation . The warps used in weaving th s tape run from 32 0 to 4 80 ends and are placed o n a beam 2 6 inches long which contains approximately 50 pounds o f yarn . Would it be better to size this yarn by bunching the warps o r by running them with the threads spread o ut ? Should heat be a p ph ed to size box or to siz e kettle and solution circulated by means of a pump ? (881 9 ) The warp would be best sized in a slasher with the threads spread out separately and not bunched as would be the case in chain sizing . G ood results would be obtained from a thin boiling corn starch o f a fluidity to mi be deter ned after observing the exact conditions . Usually the best results are obtained by holding the tem er atu r e 1 9 0 2 00 e e p of the size at degrees to d gr es F . B oth the size kettle and size box should be heated with open steam jets . Steam should be supplied from lines properly insulated and trapped so that dry steam enters z the si e mixture . A circulating system is of benefit in securing uniform r esults and is especially recommended when the equipment 94 TEXTILE WORLD

consists o f more than one o r two Slashers . Such a system works to best advantage when used in connection with a storage kettle . This kettle should be well insulated , heated v with a closed steam coil, and pro ided with a stirring device . All lines through which the hot size passes should be well insulated to prevent loss o f heat and consequent dilution at the size box .

SIZE STICKING TO DRESSER CYLINDERS

-o u We have been trying to remove the baked size, starch and glue that h a s accumulated on. warp dresser s steam cylinders . We have used hot water, damp cloth , f l t a l s . W ou vitriol and so soap , but to no purpo e ill y kindly tell us how to overcome this difiic u lty ? (2965)

I have always found that the size can be easily r e moved by softening with boiling water when scraping . O d c an b nce cleane , the trouble be avoided y greasing with tallow the first thing in the morning the fir st cylinder the i warp touches . This should be done before the steam s

l s n r e lar l an a c um ati n o f turned o n . If thi is do e gu y O ul o siz e can be removed by merely Wiping with a wet clo th . The question is not so much what will wash the size Oh the cylinder as what will prevent it from getting o n i N0 size will stick to the cylinder if it s properly handled . To p r event it from sticking to the cylinder see that the size is thoroughly boiled and put in only enough tallow to keep from foaming . Keep the size at no t lower than 2 0 2 e m ee 0 o r 1 0 degr es F . Put a ther ometer in to s hi o r i u se that it does not go over t s , better st ll, automatic

‘ temperature regulators ; If the size spatters to the sheet, keep it lower in the box . Keep the immersion in z see roll just half way down the si e, and that the blankets are in good shape . I make the blanket on th e finishing roll with three yards o f coarse and three yards of fine cloth . The blanket o n the other roll is made i with S x yards of coarse cloth . Care must be taken to i boil the size . If the sheet s heavily sized r u n the slasher 2 . f or slower I should boil to hours potato starch . I have stopped the siz e from sticking to the cylinder b inside of fif teen minutes y following the above directions . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK

SIZE COM ES OFF YARN

How can we o v ercome the trouble we are having with 9 6 1 00 4 0 - o ur sizing ? We are making by , inch goods , 52 about 508 warp and s filling, with single bank drop z wire motion . We cannot get the warps si ed heavily enough to prevent chafing and little balls forming between

the harnesses and reed , without having the size so heavy

o n the slasher that the yarn breaks at the split rods . We also have trouble with our sizing falling Off around the

slasher and under the loom . We think this is due to the z 3069 fact that our yarn is si ed very heavily . ( ) Evidently the size is not cooked sufficiently to enable o u t it to penetrate the yarn . The size remains on the o f oh o n side the yarn, is easily rubbed and drops the

floor . With a cloth construction such as given , there ought to be no trouble with the size providing it is made

right . Much depends on the proper mixing of the f dif erent ingredients , and the proportions of the same , as it is obvious that what will give good results o n o ne class o f goods will not give satisfaction on a difi ei ent grade

o f cloth . The inquirer does not state how his siz e is so is to made, it impossible say whether the formula can

be expected to give good results .

We note in the October 2 0th issue of TE XTILE R 30 9 O . 6 W LD an inquiry, No , with reference to difficulty

in sizing warp s . From experience similar to this we would suggest as a remedy for this the use of a revolving split z rod between the last squee e rolls and the slasher cylinder . Such a rod would s eparate the warp before it was dr ied on the cylinder and would tend to eliminate the trouble n mentioned by the o e making this inquiry .

JOHN D . JONES, - f Union Buf alo Mills CO .

ENDS STICKING IN COLORED WARP

The enclosed sample of green warp wa s dyed in our o n w dyehouse . This is giving us great difficulty in beam a s ing the threads stick together, making it very trouble to 2 some beam the warp . The dyeing is done with per o f 1 cent . Direct Yellow K . M . and 4 per cent . Direct 6 TEXTILE WORLD

f . T . 1 0 . o Green M , with per cent salt , after which it is 1 e 1 . topp ed with 5 per cent . Victoria G re n and per cent o f Acetic Acid . The first two runs are cold while the 0 second two are heated from 1 2 0 degrees to 1 6 degrees . Will you please advise us what is likely to be the cause o f the warps sticking together ? (3202 ) There is nothing in any direct dyestuff which would cause this effect and the appearance o f the dyed material xc e tio nall u zz o f shows that it is no t e p y j y . The union basic dyes and direct dyes o n the fibre gives rise to an insoluble material which results in the fixing o f the basic d estu fi h a s c o m . w color If the direct y , ho ever, not been letel the e c p y taken up by fibr , and if there are tra es o f the direct color in the liquor o r simply absorbed by th is cotton, it possible that the insoluble matter will be precipitated outside the fibre . If this takes place in such a manner that a tarry o r gummy mass is formed it can easily cement together the fine fibres On the surface o f a the threads . This would c use the Separate threads to be bound together just enough to cause trouble f or the beamer . The formation of this precipitate is hastened by ‘ d o an aci ity and abs lutely prevented by alkaline condition.

” is Victoria green, however, decolorized by an alkaline con o so to diti n, that the only remedy would be have the topping bath as neutral as possible . We believe that a so mewhat higher temperature would h t e . be an advantage at finish Another reason, which V might be investigated , is that the ictoria green might e d fl extr ine r h e have be n re uced with o soluble starch . T presence of any considerable quantity o f such substances in the dyestuff would easily cause this effect if t he final

rinsing had no t been c omplete .

ENDS STICKING TO GETHER I N H EAVILY SIZED WARPS How should heavily sized warps be handled to prevent them from sticking together ? (678) Answers to this question were received from several

men and f o r convenience each answer is numbered . (1 ) If the warps are run slowly over the Slasher and o n thoroughly dried, and separated the slasher with the

8 TEXTILE WORLD will be no trouble with the yarn sticking together and it will make a good yarn to weave . (5) There are several ways to treat sized warps a o ne cording to h ow heavy the size is put o n . O method is to have the back lease rod about three times the diameter o f is the ordinary lease rod , and this all that is necessary in ea unless the size has been laid on extra thick . By c r s ing the size of the lease r o d the yarn is separated before it gets close to the rod and thus prevents its bunching d as it would o if only an ordinary lease rod were used . With a sma ll r o d the point where the yarn begins to separate is so close to the lease r od that it Will bunch up t close to the r o d and break o u . With the large r o d the point o f separation is farther away . Another method is to have two flat lease rods fastened “ together by spring, hinges and used for the back r o d instead Of the ordinary round one . With the working o f the harnesses these two rods Open and close and the yarn is a thus separated s it comes from the beam . Fo r very heavily sized warps it is well to u se an extra a in a the d le se rod the same lease s back r o . This extra o ne is attached to the lay with a wire and to the Whip r Oller with a spring so that the rod moves forward and back with the lay and keeps the yarn well separated .

SIZING ‘ C OTTO N SKEINS We ar e enclosing a sample skein o f yarn which is weaving poorly . This yarn is siz ed with star ch and u 1 4 s of 6 o f tallow, sing ounce starch and ounces tallow - h for about 7 00 pounds Of yarn . We first add t e starch boih n to the water and heat it to the g point, then add . we the tallow When thoroughly mixed , soak the yarn in this solution and then put it into a n extractor and from there the skeins are put onto sticks and thoroughly i s d s . dried . It then rea y for pooling and weaving We are also enclosing a sample o f the tape in which this 287 0 yarn is used . ( ) I would suggest the inquirer try using cocoanut or olive oil ar e , which both, soluble, in the solution, making up the o . t same as before, but simply bringing the sizing solution the boiling point, and I think the results will be more satisfactory . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 99

BALLS FORM ING ON YARN BEHIND REED

wi We wish to weave a velour like sample here th , but are having trouble with fuzz coming o ff the pile yarn which o f balls up back the reed , thereby not allowing the yarn t z o pass through freely . Also due to this fu z , the yarn sticks together so that it will not shed right in front of

the reed . We make the constru ction of sample to be : 4 8 30/2 . Warp , to the inch, yarn 4 8 . Pile, to the inch , yarn 4 F 36 2 /2 . illing , picks to the inch, yarn The pile yarn we are using is a single carded warp

d w . twiste , of which you will also find here ith a sample Can you advise us what to do to overcome this trouble ? (4 4 03 )

ne o r If the reed is too fi , if there are too many ends per dent so that they do not have a chance to pass ea ch other when the shed is being formed and are crowded together too much when the picks are beaten up into the cloth, it is probable that these balls will be formed . If the reed is not exactly in line with the warp yarn as hi it leads from the harness to the reed, t s condition will cause the reed to rub sidewise o n the yarn and disturb n h the fibres, pushi g the broken fibres back on the t read behind the reed and forming little balls . In many cases ' two o r this causes more ends to stick together . The most important reason f o r this trouble is the warp yarn not being sized well enough to keep the fibres together during the weaving . If the reed is to o fine it W u can be changed ithout taking o t the warp . If the reed is not exactly in line with the warp yarn a s it leads from the harness it is an easy and inexpensive matter to move it to the correct position . But if the warp yarn is not properly Sized it is almost imp o ssible to do anything z a h that will help , because si e cannot well be pp ed during the weaving process and it is not an easy matter to resize a warp after it has once left the slasher . The sample of 1 4 s warp submitted shows a good firm thread and one that Should weave well if it wa s sized right . But if the warp is what is termed a soft warp (the 1 0 0 TEXTILE WORLD term applied to a warp that is not properly sized ) it is a hard proposition to make it weave well, and the sensible thing to do is to turn it into waste or make an attempt to resize it .

PIE CE -WORK ON SLASH ERS Do you know of any mill that pays the Slasher tenders o n - ? a piece rate basis In other Words, a slasher working on piece-work ? What system do they use ? What allow ec is an s are made ; in fact, what the whole scheme used by concerns that y ou know about ? (4 0 64 )

has nu After making diligent inquiry, the writer been able to learn of any mill which pays the slasher tenders - mi o n a piece rate basis . It would seem that there ght ffi o f be objections to su Ch a system . The e ciency the weave room and the quality of the woven goods have a very direct r elation to the care and thoroughness shown the is n in slashing operation, and the latter co sequently i a process where quality above all things s essential . It would accordingly seem more appropriate to pay the slasher tenders a fixed wage with a bonus f or a high to o f quality of product , rather than install a method payment calculated to induce them to hurry the work

through . ma nu f a c u r er s Again, are coming to realize that under

ordinary conditions, a low steam pressure, a moderate bo x S s hi e temperature in the size , and a low las ng spe d difiic u lt produce the best warps . Such conditions would be to maintain if the slasher tenders were paid on a piece th e On rate basis , unless rates were computed a very

generous basis . efi ec t Should such a system be put into the rates , in any in ri event, should be g raduated accordance with the va ous is nec es driving gears employed , since the slasher speed sar ily varied according to the number of ends in the o f r o f warps , the size the ya n, and the character the goods

f o r which the warp is intended . (We would be glad to have any reader send us p ar tic u lars o f a system for paying slasher tenders o n a piece

work basis . )

1 02 TEXTILE WORLD

to sa y which one is responsible in this particular case . The whip roll may be to o low ; the breast beam may need a strip o f wood to make it higher ; the harness cams may no t be set o n proper time . I would suggest that the whip roll be raised and that a strip Of wood be placed o n the ea a 1 o f 1 br st beam, s y about A; an inch thick and about n inch wide . This will help to put a better face o the cloth, giving the yarn a chance to spread . If this does not give the desired _result then set the cams so the harness will change about inches from the fell of the

o to o nor to o . cloth . D not weave loose tight The overseer and second hands should be on th’e constant lookout . I have had twenty-two years experience o n this c lass o f goods and think if these suggestions are followed the o t a s I e cloth will come u all right, although hav said so mi before, many things ght cause the trouble that it would be impossible to give a definite opinion without t seeing the looms in opera ion . 2 i t t ee ( ) It s difficult o preven r d marks in plain cloth . fi ul is to The finer the reed, the more dif c t it prevent them ; i I n some cases it is impossible . This s due to the fine e in to the not i wir used the reed, and warp yield ng e i readily to the fin r filling when the reed s beating up . f r The wires o the reed swing more o less anyway . These marks are caused when the reed beats up and the more o ne thinks o f it the more surprising it is that they can be prevented . In the sample enclosed there are ' two I n o ne t th is a two s ends den , at , e ch end are separated by a piece Of wire . _ ‘ The shape of the cam h as a great dea l to do with preventing reed marks and making a better appearing T l cloth . o prevent reed marks the shed shoud be open with the whip roll fixed on a higher plane than the center h s e o f the shed when the reed beats up . W en the harne s s are set in this manner the bottom shed is tighter than the top shed ; this e the warp threads to force the _caus s is filling equally between the threads , and it only by getting the filling equally between these single threads that one is a full cloth can be made, unless thread placed in ne o dent . I do not think it possible to take out reed marks in such Th fi ne cloth as this in the finishing process . e fibres will COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 03

r a d . next . th e not swell and blend with the , as does wool

Mangling might overcome this defect , as this tends to spread the yarn and gives the cloth a softer finish . (3 ) I have found the chief cause of reed marks to be in the whip roll being too low . Another cause is having the harness level with the lay of the loom and too far away from the fell of the cloth . I would put a rod from to 34 o f an inch thick on the edge of the breast beam so as to throw up the cloth at this point . I would also raise the whip roll so the yarn will slant downward to the eye of the heddle, and rise slightly from the fell of the cloth to the edge of the breast beam . If the loom is set in this manner it will cover up the reed marks . I do not know of anything that will take them out after the cloth is woven . (4 ) I have worked in a good many diff erent mills and run up against as many different reed marks as any one . In 99 times out of every 1 00 I have found the loom to be the cause o f the trouble . A few years ago a commission house sent back a piece Of cloth to the mill where I was fixing looms and told the superintendent if he could not make cloth without ree d marks they would not handle any more of his product . o n The mill was running shirtings and colored dress goods ,

2 3 4 60s 55s . , and harness work, warp and filling An order had gone o ut from the offi ce that the whip rolls were to be set one inch ofi the beam so when anyone looked down the room everything would be clean and

. wa i neat That s all r ght, but they did not get the first loom set right and that knocked the other 7 00 ofi and f caused most o the reed marks . We knew what was n bei g done, but we simply kept up our sections and when the cloth came o ut worse than usual with reed marks we would put on another reed and sometimes squared up the

. saw wh o s shuttle I some men doing this , I uppose, had n been fixi g looms before I was born . Things ran along this way f or a while and then o ne e fi xer s hi day the overs er called all the into s offi ce . The e wa s f n sup rintendent in that little O fice too . We all k ew what wa s coming and the expression on his face I have never forgotten . As the last man came in wiping the s o ff his o f per piration face with a piece cop waste, the O4 TEXTILE WORLD superintendent opened ou t a piece o f cloth and laid it o n a a blackboard . It w s filled with reed marks . We have ” “ had kicking enough about these reed marks, he said , to e have stopped it long ago . W have spent hundreds o f n e the dollars o reeds and w have got best in the market . I have called you in today to find o u t what is wrong in ' he fi i her . t n s the weave room I have been putting it up to , o but he says it is in the weave room . N w if any o f yo u ” out o r . can solve the problem, with never

e b . We all looked at each oth r, but no ody would speak “ ” F :B o u inally the overs’eer said oys , if y have got any to sa but thing y don t be That helped a little, still nobody spoke . After “waiting a’few minutes longer a a a the superintendent said . I h ven t he rd anyone s y ” i anything yet . We all looked at each other aga n and after awhile I opened u p by saying that the last mill I was h a d to o n ’in put a cover , the cloth, but that they didn t seem to care anything about it in this mill . . By the time the superintendent asked me what cover had to do r to et with reed ma ks, I began g a little more courage and told him I thought it did have ’something to do with n it . Then he asked me why I didn t put a cover o my cloth and I told him if I did I should have to break the rules by raising the whip rolls and moving the harness cams from the bottom center to very near the front h no t to e center . I told him t is would only help pr vent the reed marks , but also the filling marks made when the

‘ weavers started up the lo o ms after t hey had been stopped u er mtendent t a for a while . The s p told the overseer o t ke me to the loom that the piece o f cloth came from and let me turn it upside down if I wanted to and they would look f or the results .

The overseer and I went to the loom - and we began by o t set t he straightening u the reed, then we whip roll about 2 e inches above the l vel Of the lay, and when we got the harness shade set with very little tension o n the u p a shade, we leveled the harness and moved the lay half w y ff o f from the cloth . We took o the backs the shuttle boxes and s quared them up ; we also squared the shuttles and filed off the shoulder so they would not interfere with the reed if the picking stick should throw the shuttles against it . When the work was done and the loom

1 0 6 TEXTILE WORLD

tact with the reed , thus damaging the wire . A weaver may injure the reed by the careless u se o f the reed hook ; pressing the reed cap down too tight is almost sure to cause reed marks . Another cause of reed marks I s the u se of a reed in o r which the wire is to o heavy f the fabric , although the reed itself ma y give the required dents per inch ; in other o f words, the steel used in the construction the reed may be to o heavy . one m A hard twisted warp , particularly co bined with a

“ s z heavy i e, will show distinctly every dent in the reed

e . throughout the cloth, though the r ed may be perfect

o f of r e . Th e These are “ some the causes e d marks remedy is found in greater care . C are should be taken in the selection o f the reed, and in handling it before it gets en ~ to the loom . Wh it is in position the greatest care should be taken by both fixer and weaver that the r esult may be perfect cloth .

‘ (7 ) Reed marks may be caused by unequal shedding o f th n l low th e r ed e har ess , the whip rol being too , lease s too

s s too - _ r r near the harne ses , cam treading late, o the ha ness cams not having the right dwell . To get the best results I a s hi would suggest using half dwell cams , t s gives ample m s ti e for the huttle to pass through the shed, and the change Of the harnesses is no t so sudden a s to strain the

yarn . The cloth can also be woven with o ne side softer h the t an other, by reason Of the filling being more promi o n d w i a s . nent that side, pro ucing hat known s the cover The harness cams should be set so that the harnesses are level when the cranks of the top shaft are near the bottom

!

. o n 4 e center The warp should be drawn harn sses, 2 beginning at the front 1 3 4 . After the drawing is completed and the warp put in the loom, make a lease n with two ends u der a rod . This can be done by raising

the second and fourth harnesses, placing the larger lease ! r n rods through the y a n, loweri g the second and fourth, hi raising the first and t rd, and placing the smaller r o d

through the yarn . They should be set about 6 inches from the harness and the whip roll raised 3 o r 4 inches higher o n than the race board the lay . In an open weave, like ul the sample enclosed, the best res ts can be obtained by o ne drawing the warp yarn through the reed, thread in a COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 0 7

dent . I do not know of any way to take out these marks in the finishing process . (8) In some cases reed marks can be taken out in the

finishing if a coarser reed is used . After the goods have been wet and stretched the ends will sometimes slide over and separate, but in the case of the sample submitted

I think the reed is a little too fine for this . A mock leno with three ends in a dent will sometimes split the ends if the pattern cannot be divided into three, in which case the third end can be brought together in the finishing . The s ample enclosed is drawn o n four harness and by skip shafting the warp yarn it has a tendency to separate . In most cases o f trouble with reed marks we use twice as many dents . The majority of American lo o mfi xer s run the reed too close to the cloth, whereas if they would put the crank o n the bottom center when the harness is level and a little past the top back center they would get a better cover . (9 ) Fo r weaving goods of this kind I should set the o f looms with the tops the harness even, the reed to 2 % inches from the cloth, with the rods as far from the harness as the harness is from the cloth . When the crank is on the bottom center the race plate should be 3 to inches below the breast board and whip roll . Care must be taken that there is not too much tension on the yarn .

TAKE -U P OF WARP AND FILLING I would like to have an explanation o f the method of - allowing for take u p o f warp and filling . (7 37 ) The allowance for take-u p in warp and filling is made by percentage o n the spun length of the yarn taken a s a n basis . This spun length is the length o the warp beam f o r on f o r . warp , and that the bobbin filling If the warp i 1 takeup s 3 per cent . then 1 00 yards of warp will make 1 00-1 3 8 - ( ) 7 y ards Of cloth . If the filling take u p is 1 2 0 per cent . then 1 0 yards o f filling yarn o n the bobbin will 1 00 - 2 8 measure ( 1 ) 8 yards in the cloth .

is o f 1 00 The yarn length the basis per cent . -u is The take p expressed by the rate per cent . The i cloth length s the yield per cent . 1 08 TEXTILE WORLD

The calculations o f allowance f o r take-u p are thus simple operations in percentage . The spun length is found as follows :

E am l f f r 50 x p e . What length o warp is required o a a I d - y cut with a warp take u p o f 1 3 per cent . 5 87 f . 0 . (yield ) yards o warp

The mistake 1 s sometimes made o f taking the cloth a s o f 1 0 0 length the basis per cent . By this method a - 0 r take u p o f 1 3 per cent . means that 1 0 ya ds Of cloth 1 3 f require 1 yards o warp . The first method by which the spun length is taken as is to u r t a basis be preferred, beca se it cor esponds o the

‘ usual method o f making allowances f or lesses in other n is processes, by which the origi al length o r weight Thu s an f considered the basis. allowance o 1 5 per cent . f or waste in carding and spinning means that 1 00 pounds 8 o f cotton at the picker yields 5 pounds o f spun yarn . - f 1 5 er i Likewise a take u p o p cent . in weav ng means that 1 00 a r i 85 f t yards Of w p yields yards o clo h .

LO OM LAYOUT FOR PLAID

We would like to make an all -cotton black and white h b -lIlC h a 2/30 s epherd plaid, a out sq uare in size, using

‘ o r o n s u s1 n 4 or 6 warp , narrow loom , g harnesses , t 4 5 the weight of goods o be about to ounces . Could

” you give u s any Information a s to h ow to lay same o ut to manuf acture it (4 095)

2 -3 r f or a With 0s yarn f o both warp and filling, ni o f to 28 s e ou to tr fi shed width inche , w advise y y 30 2 the following loom layout . warp ends , reed ,

- - 2 9 2 6 30 f 62 . inches wide inside o selvages , picks per inch W 4 2 and eave with regular harness common twill, up 2 down . For one-quarter inch of black and one-quarter inch of o n o f 1 6 o f white, dress and weave the order threads 32 each alternately . There would be ends in a pattern and a convenient warp dressing arr angement would be 7 sections o f 256 ends to the warp and 8 patterns to the section .

1 0 TEXTILE WORLD

selvage would be satisfactory . It would repeat with a five

harness body o n 30 picks . fi e- If the inquirer is using a v harness filling cam loom, the only thing to do is to put o n a 3 o r 4 pick selvage motion to work in conjunction with the ordinary 2 pick 2 x2 selvage motion, because the selvage motion would hold the filling on the side o f the 3X3 selvage with less ha contraction than a plain edging would. This s often s s been done in special case , and , while it takes ome time inotion is to get a loom rigged up , the easy and works t if e f r admirably, and would be wor h while the ord r o these

goods is very large .

” DISTIN CT TWILL IN DRILL FABRIC

H ow can I obtain a good twill on drills . We Import a ni in the wi is cloth from the U ted States gray, h ch called i e . e ma Americ an drill The twill s very distinct . W k h Am ri i not drills ere in South e ca, but the tw ll does show

! ’ up a s it does o n the imported fabric. We fweave the 2 “ 6 . cloth in healds , in a reed The cloth“ shows up very reedy if 3 in a reed are used and there is very little i 3 tw ll . ( 1 36) The principal fault with the South American drill is that the inquirer ha s used a r ight hand twist warp a nd . a T he u left hand twist filling . stock sed to make the y arn 1 o f l is i s o w grade, the cotton dirty, the yarn s uneven and the cloth itself very Streaky . The sample o f American i m hi e goods s made fro a clean w te cotton, w ll spun into

‘ fi ar e yarn and very even , both warp and lling right ’ ha infi u en n hand twist . The twist s a big c e o the twill ; n the more twist the better the twill will sta d up . We would advise the inquirer running this on three cotton n 2 harn esses o a cam loom, and drawing ends in ea ch dent o f the reed . The selvage should be either plain or a 2 and 2 tape ; the latter is preferable . There are 7 2 warp threads and 4 8 fiiling threads per inch in the 7 2 American sample, while the other counts warp threads and 52 filling threads per inch . The slight difi er enc e in the pick will not make any difference in the prominence o f the twill lines . Both samples are approximately 1 4 5 warp and 2 0s filling . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 1 1

UNSATISFACTORY DRILL CONSTRUCTION

IV e we are enclosing a sample of drill , which material think is too tender in the width and would like to have 31 4 8 your Opinion regarding this . ( ) The construction of the fabric in question is 68 threads

of 1 5s carded warp and 4 0 picks of 24 s carded filling . o f The warp is a good, well spun yarn suitable twist, but w the filling has very little t ist , which with the low number

of picks accounts for the lack of strength . Not knowing

what break is wanted , we cannot advise whether the results

are satisfactory, but if the picks per inch are arbitrary

and a stronger fabric is wanted, the filling certainly must

be made stronger, either by making a heavier filling yarn ,

using better stock, or giving the filling yarn more twist . The construction of 68 ends of 1 5s warp against 4 0 4 picks o f 2 s filling is o u t o f proportion .

PLAIN GAUZE WEAVING Will you kindly inform me if it is absolutely necessary to have 2 beams when making plain doup weave goods ; also the manner of arranging the easing motion ? Can you tell me if I can get a loom builder in this country to arrange a shuttle similar to a ribbon loom for the purpose o f weaving a fancy curtain with a stripe down

each side, the stripe having more picks than the body of the goods ? (4 34 5) It is not absolutely necessary to use two beams when z weaving plain gau e lenos . This type of leno is largely o f mar u esette is used for the making q curtains , that , for the body cloth . The selvages, if woven plain , are usually run from an extra selvage spool with narrow heads o n

each side . These selvages are sometimes cut away when a t making m r q u eset e curtains with lace borders . They are only used f o r the purpose o f keeping the ends and f picks in position near the edges o the cloth . The easing motion works only o n the cross shed o n all kin ds o f

. l o f lenos Loom bui ders will make any kind special loom . If the inquirer will be a little more specific it is just

possible that he could be saved a lot of trouble . The

inquiry leaves much to be guessed at . 1 1 2 TEXTILE WORLD

CALCULATING THE WIDTH OF CLOTH IN THE LO OM I notice that the loom reed for cotton goods is Often figured by subtracting 1 from the number o f threads p er di inch finished , and divi ng the remainder by the number o f threads per dent .

Fo r example : Find the reed f o r a 64 sley cotton cloth with 4 threads per dent . g 4 (64 1 ) 4 reed t Some calculators take 5 per cen . from this remainder 95 1 00 1 5% X . ( %

In this case they would. use a 1 5 reed .

This practice is confi ned to t he cotton industry . I wish you would explain why they deduct - 1 from the number 398 o f threads p er inch finished . ( )

o f is u The practice _ calculating the reed referred to p rely ni arbitrary. Cotton goods are woven wider than the fi shed “ width in order to allow for contraction due to take -u p f 1 is after weaving, and the allowance p thread per inch made for this purpose . I t does not answer for all cases because the take -u p varies with the siz e o f the yarn and ‘ t n the weave, as well as with he number of threads per i ch , consequently the difference of 1 between the finished and loom set of cotton f abrics may be right f or o ne weave ' o r size o f yarn and wrong if the - weave or size of the yarn is c hanged . A better practice is employed in the wo olen industry where the loom width is first determined by making what is - considered the necessary allowance f or take up . The threads per inch in the lo om ~ ar e then calculated from the o f total number ends and the required width .

E xample . to 55 is to fl A cloth be finished inches wide be laid 7 5 inches wide in the loom with 4 threads per

. F n dent There are ends in the warp . i d the reed required . 75 4 0 , threads per inch in the loom . ' 4: 1 0 I , eed .

1 1 4 TEXTILE WORLD

results are wanted, but in many mills they u se the other . for the sake of uniformity and allow extra ends where a is the shrink ge greater, thus giving more than the required sley ; when the shrinkage is less they take out out some ends, and in the end come about even .

REM OVING RUST FROM REEDS

We would like to get some preparation that will

u ne sa 90 to 1 00 d er:i . remove r st from fi reeds, y ents p nch (1 04 2 )

I have f requently had occasion to remove rust from various iron and steel articles and although I have never ”

- On et tried it reeds , y the good results obtained in other ‘ cases lead me to believe that it is worth while testing it in the cleaning of reeds ; Pieces o f ordinary zinc are ‘ r t is attached to the a ticle o be treated, which then put

in e ha s b . wat r to which a little sulphuric acid _ een added

It - should be left there until the rust h a s entirely dis

a on h ow e is u e . ppeared, the time depending d eply it r st d If there is much rust a little more sulphuric acid should o f e s be added occasionally . The essential part this proc s ' is that the zinc must be in good electrical contact with the

“ steel or iron that is to be cleaned . A good way to manage ‘ this is to twist an ir o n _w1 r e tightly around the piec e and mm is t connect this with the zinc . A battery the bes a to use as it h s a binding post . Besides the simplicity o f this process it ha s the ad4 vantage Of not having the iron o r steel attacked in the least a s long a s the zinc is in good electrical contact with it . D elicate pieces Of mechanism which have become badly rusted , can be cleaned by wrapping a galvanized wire f a around them instead o the zinc, in which case the cid a is should not be to o strong . When the r ust has ll d appeared the articles will appear a dark green or blackish color . They should then be thoroughly washed and oiled and it is well to war m them slightly when dry so that the o il ma y sink into the surface . Since your question was received I have tried this process on a small piece of wa s reed, which is sent to you under separate cover . It badly rusted and you will notice that now it is very clean . COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 1 5

A boss weaver replies as follows :Care should be taken

that the reeds do not get rusted . If the wire is deeply rusted replace the reed with a new one ; if only slightly

damaged, put on a little oil and take a tapered piece of hard wood and work upon the reed in the direction of the

wire . Also take a piece of pumice stone and use it in the same way . Then finish by using fine emery cloth and

a good stiff brush .

PRODUCTION OF A LO OM Will you kindly give me the following information :In the manufacture of 36 inch 5 yard sheeting with 4 4 threads 4 4 o f to the inch o f warp and picks to the inch filling , how many pounds of both will be consumed in a square yard o f goods ? Also how many yards should a plain 1 80 loom produce in a day Of ten hours , running at picks per minute ? Would it be practicable on this class of goods to speed it up to 2 0 0 picks a minute ? (2072 )

36 As the cloth is inches wide, each running yard is 5 equal to a square yard . There being yards to the pound it follows that each yard will weigh ounces . As the i 4 4 o f cloth s square, the weight the warp will be equal f of to that o the filling, consequently each square yard the cloth will consist o f ounces warp and ounces

fillin g . The production of this cloth per loom would depend upon the amount of time lost by reason of the loom being

hi of . idle . T s loss depends upon a number varying factors The theoretical production Of a loom is found by dividing hi the picks per minute by the picks per inch . T s gives the r number o f hundred yards per week of 60 hours . Fo on example, the cloth under consideration, the theoretical 8 4 4 4 0 9 production would be 1 0 or yards . If there the wa s a loss Of 1 0 per cent . actual production would be

368 yards per week o f 60 hours . Whether it would be practicable to speed the plain loom to 2 00 picks per minute is a question that could be decided finally only by a test . It is frequently found that increasing the speed f f o a loom results in a loss o production . 1 1 6 TEXTILE WORLD

REM EDIE S F OR ROLLED SELVAGES

I am having trouble with rolled selvages o n blue denim . o The cloth leaves the weave _ room in g od condition and the selvage o n both sides is the same . Sometimes the selvage turns over four o r fi ve yards from the end o f the o t b a a o n u efore it le ves the shears , lways the same side of l is the cloth . The overseer in the c oth rooms claims it the fault o f the loom and I say it is the fault of the

f . shears . I am inclosing a sample o the goods Some c u t o f o s times the same cloth g e through the shears _ all n right a d the next time it turns a s shown in the sample . Can you suggest the cause and remedy ? (24 87 )

This trouble occurs more or less with all fabrics that have the selvage ends weaving the same as the body of the s i e u c d cloth . Thi s becaus the o tside ends are not interla e n o n with the filli g each pick and, therefore, the outside

o n e i e s . end each sid s pulled und r, causing rolled selvage

The following are probably the most ~ common causes Of these defects

“

1 . T o o n o n much power o the shuttle, especially the x side of the loom with shuttle eye at mouthpiece o f bo .

“ 2 T o o io n n I n . much tens n o filli g shuttle, especially f o n o a 1 . with shuttle side loom, s stated in N o . f 3 . E nds o cuts n ot sewed straight .

4 its . Cloth expansion roll o r spreader not doing

work properly . b b tl i There are proba ly a few other causes, u f the above ' are given c ar ef ul attention the number o f cuts with rolled e selvages will be very much reduced . Frequently a chang

in the loom from one pick to another will stop the trouble . h t h e a -in o f n or A c ange in dr wing the selvage e ds, a

change in the timing of the shedding motion may help . The first two causes are self-evident and require no argu hi is ment to prove that they will cause the trouble . T s “ especially true when the shuttle eye is at the mouthpiece of box because the distance between the selvage and the i As shuttle eye s short and the outer ends are pulled in . hi has for the t rd c ause, it been found that the operative is usually not as careful with the ends of cuts as he o f h should be . The ends the cuts should be put on t e

1 1 8 TEXTILE WORLD

f th shrink . The cloth curls toward the back because o e

Open character o f the weave o n that side . i misc r o sc o e If the cloth is exam ned under the p , it will be noticed that the selvage ends are all crowded together; When the outside end is crossed by the filling it is pulled over the next three ends and the shrinkage o f the filling when wet is sufficient to cause the rolling of the selvage i n . s o to continue When it gets a start there means, short

t . of a tentering machine, o keep it straight By using selvage motions the selvage ends can be made to interlace the filling in plain weave order . This will also permit the selvage harness to be set so t hat the filling will be engaged and held by the warp while it is being b hi n — u o f brought up y the lay, w le still setti g the beat p the body o f the cloth wherever it is best f o r weaving . is to If it desired avoid using selvage motions, the selvage could be improved by drawing in the selvage o n d nl h ul threads the first and thir harnesses o y, whic wo d

“ make the selvage weave With a plain intersection . By this arrangement e very other pick wou d not be l _ woven to f in the selvage, but would be drawn the body o the thi s han cloth . The improvement from s c ge would consist in the fact that when the filling wa s woven into the o r w selvage every other end would be up do n, and this would give double the number Of intersections . This the h would prevent s uttle from causing the selvage to roll, which i s the first and real cause o f the selvage curling when being finished .

WEAVING SEERSUCKER EFFE C TS

of n whic a I enclose a sample _ imp orted shirti g h I h ve h m . t e attempted to atch, but without success I get crepe

ff o n is not . e ect the stripe, but it pronounced enough After taking o ff the tension o n the loom the ends begin to 1 /6 s n . 0 loop , spoili g the cloth I am using warp and

1 /50 s 98 84 . filling, ends and picks per inch in the loom (2032 )

In producing Seersucker effects care is necessary in setting the harness and timing the motion by which the f r ul stripe is made . The ends o the Seersucker stripe sho d be drawn o n separate harness and a somewhat larger COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 1 9

shed should be made o n those harness . The motion by which the stripe is made should be set so that the ends will be slackened when the reed comes in contact with the cloth . If the inquirer will follow these directions a good seersucker stripe should be the result . This stripe, how a ff ever, would probably give better e ect if the ends were drawn two in an eye .

FRICTION ON A SH UTTLE I would like to have some information in regard to the n 32s tension o the filling in looms . The warp is and the - - 4 0s 27 o n 4 4 . filling , weaving inch goods a inch loom Please advise me how the tension could be made and the m o f anner in which it is inserted in the eye the shuttle, f also what kind o stock to use . I also have some difficulty 2 02 0 with filling on 2 by 1 and 4 by 1 looms . ( )

There are several ways o f putting friction o n yarn in a shuttle to get the best results . I would suggest that a inch hole be bored in the bottom o f the shuttle at the entrance o f the eye o n the shuttle where the yarn o f o f enters the eye the shuttle, and then draw a bunch off warp yarn that will fit the hole tightly . Cut it at

about the top of the eye . If the yarn is soft twisted , have the hole about an inch straight from the eye to the spindle o n the shuttle and have the yarn a s it comes from the bobbin pass through the yarn that is used for friction so that it will hold it tight enough and prevent the -in drawing on the side . Be sure that there is not to o o n as r e much power the loom, that makes the shuttle

bound in the boxes . This will cause the filling to draw in o n the side . ‘ S e xer 1 s u se fl of a . om loom fi a at wire, 4 n inch wide A groove is cut in the shuttle about half an inch below s the e e of the the eye and the wire come flush with y ,

shuttle . The yarn will come in contact with the wire and thus cause a friction a s it draws through the e ye of the

shuttle . I have always had good success in the first

mentioned way, as the wire in the shuttle is liable to become loose if not properly fastened and break out the o f ends the warp . 1 2 0 TEXTILE WORLD

SPLIT SELVAGES I would like to obtain information regarding mock

selvages ; that is, selvages in the center or in any part f 1 o the cloth . ( 044 )

Split selvages are used to weave two narrow clo ths in

a broad loom . The difficulty o f making a split is to make a center selvage which will not allow the warp threads to unravel after the cloth is cut into two narrow

widths . There are several mechanical devices f or making

1 2 3 FIGS. , AND

e two e a good split selvage, but I will illustrat which hav ne is given good results . The first o worked after the

1 2 3 . r I n le o f F . p p a leno thread as shown at igs , and i i the s 1 . 2 F . F g shows the harness level . g shows harne s ' i 3 dou c r o ssed F . when doup is straight, and g shows the p ;

a, the whip roll ; b, the elastic for keeping the ground

22 TEXTILE WORLD

a and pull the thre d down but not lift up , then through the f eye of the doup . This doup is made o a very fine steel chain about o f an inch in diameter . There is a great o f a w deal wear and te r on the doup , and the chain ill last about f our weeks and costs from 6. to 1 2 cents per loom .

This motion is mostly used o n ordinary light plain cloth .

Crompton Kn owles Loom Works sell a very good f o r hi ul f o r moton split selvages w ch wo d do any cloth ,

Fi 4 . or . whether light heavy g , represents this motion It is attached to a stand which is bolted to the arch o f i i 5 . 4 . i 6 F F . F . the loom g is attached to g by bolt, H g i shows how it looks when o n the loom . The motion s in the center o f th e loom I n front o f the harn ess and behind

r . s s t the eed Arm , I , are fa tened o the harness straps by

“ a nar row piece of leather, - L . The two thr eads o f the ir s o r r selvage are drawn through the w e dent g ate, J,

a Fi . 4 a r att ched to g , and the crossing thre ds are d awn 1 i - f dl . o o n F 5. 1 through the eye the nee e, K , g Arm “ 2 is atta ched to the f ront harness and arm 1 is atta ched to th e back harness .

“ 1 Wh en the f ront harn es s is pulled down arm 1 is pull ed dl down, bringing the nee es , “ K , to the right hand side “

_ Of r in g ate, J, and bring g t h e crossing threads at the right hand side o f the FI G“ 7 FI G“ 8* 1 2 selvage threads . When is dr opped the needles are pulled back to the left makin g

. fi n a stitch in the Selvage Figs . 7 and 8 Show the e ec t o

the cloth .

WEAVIN G LENO WORK

Please inform me what kind of loom the inclosed sample f n 2 625 o cotton goods can be woven o . ( )

Any ordinary dobby lo o m with a leno attachment can be l used to weave these goods . A smal capacity dobby loom

with this attachment can be had for a nominal amount . A leno attachment could be added to a dobby f or a few COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 23

use ul dollars . I would advise this inquirer not to the reg ar f doup twine for this class o work , but to use a steel doup heddle . I am using them on similar work at the present time with success .

REED M ARKS IN TOWELS

Some weeks ago there was published an article o n the l 0x6 weaving o f cotton huck towels . We have tried the weave o n the draw you gave and at the same time used a

2 4 . No . 1 reed with ends to the dent Cloth shows reed marks which are eliminated by using a finer reed and

2 . we r un putting ends per dent However, would like to is more ends per dent if possible . Can you tell us what r r wa s wrong o give us the co rect reed to use, as this not stated in the article ? (2 665)

An examination o f the sample of cotton huck toweling shows the reed marks to be more defined at every repeat o f twenty ends . This is due to the fact that a reed wire separates the twentieth and twenty-fi r st ends ; as this is the “ ” end and beginning o f a pattern the ends lock with each i other . It s practically impossible to eliminate the reed marks at this point owing to the locking of the weaves and the heavy wire used in the reed . An early timing of e on the shedding motion, harn ss level when crank is c hi bottom enter, with the w p roll raised above harness

to . eyes at this time will tend eliminate this It is best, t e o e . however, re d the ends two in a dent in a finer r ed The following was sent by a manufacturer after reading the above :In your issue o f July 8 there ar e some remarks about reed marking in the weaving of a 1 0 by 6 huckaback 1 2 when a reed is used with 4 threads per dent . It is quite likely that a definite line or crack might appear every 2 0 threads f o r the reason mentioned in the reply concerning i 24 the defect . It s also likely that the reed may be rather n i fi er than the m ll desires to use, although finer reeds than these are Often employed for the weaving o f these fabrics . If , however, the inquirer wishes to avoid the as reed marking, he naturally will , and at the same time u se to a comparatively coarse reed , I would suggest that the and ee as ll he try reeding threads in twos thr s , i us 1 24 TEXTILE WORLD tr ated by the horizontal lines under the design shown i herewith . This design s repeated twice in the warp so that the order of reeding may be quite clear .

‘ It will be seen that each pair o f plain threads will be fi tin placed in a separate dent, and that the two o a g threads will also ap pear in a d ent with a plain thread between

them . The only o bj ec tiOn to this method o f reeding is that the pair of floating threads may “ appear rather near to each other in virtue of REEDING HUC K TOWE LS in being the same dent, on but, the other hand , this slight defect is less objectionable than that of a well

c 2 n f - 2 defined rack every 0 threa ds . O the basis o a 1 4 o a er reed , per dent, the ab ve reeding, aver ging p be z dent, will 1 2 X 4 1 9 reed

“ TWILL WEAVE

Will y o u kindly advise - u s if it is possible to make a perfect twill weave with three h arnesses ? We have heard

e if ~ that this could be don ; it is possible, please advise ' h a r h w e w at shape cams e used and o they should be s t. (3253 ) r

The three harness twill is one of the best known o f the w 2 1 twill weaves , and it may be oven either up and down , a n t k ou or 1 up nd 2 down . We do o now exactly what y “ ” refer to by perfect twill weave ; but if you mean a twill ! which has the same amount o f warp and filling o n both e is back and face, the thr e harness twill not a perfect twill weave . The smallest number of harnesses o n which s 2 2 such a twill can be made is four harnesse , up and

. of im down In regard to the shape cams, it would be possible to go into this subj ect in the spa ce available .

Such cams are supplied by loom builders , and it will serve no useful purpose to attempt to give a description Of their c onstr uction.

6 TEXTILE WORLD are not enough warp threads to the inch for good cover ing purposes . While the warp yarn is heavy the sley is none too heavy ; 68- warp threads per inch does not have much covering capacity even though the warp yarn is 2 i 1 . 9s o r l os . s s around The filling also heavy , about When the pick is being beaten up this filling h a s to be interlaced with every third thread .

Not much can be gained by any setting of the loom , although it is good practice to raise the whip roll slightly ; that is , have the whip roll a little higher than the breast

set o f . beam, and then the time the shed a little late The first setting will have a tendency t o keep the to p shed ends ' a nd in n e the ends loose, this man r will weave into the cloth and spread . The second setting will not have such a tendency to push th e threads apart when the pick is _ e s o f fi ll to being placed, b cau e the p ick lling wi have be pushed but a short distance before it reaches the fell of the cloth . A great deal more can be gained by correct reeding Of the warp ends . It is obvious that the more reed wires there are betwee n threads the more the thr eads will be forced apart when the pick is beaten up to the fell o f the a cloth . The inquirer does not s y how many ends per dent ‘ 3 4 there are in the reed . He should experiment with , i and even 5 ends per dent . The wise man will do all k nds o f unconventional things in order to get results . This

a n ot i . ui kind of experiment tion does cost anyth ng, _ and q te lea in r e lt often gives p s g su s . The more ends per dent the

' more chance the warp yarn will have to - roll .

STREAKY DENIM

I am sending you a sample o f denim with a streak i in running through the m ddle . The super tendent claims was that i t is due to imperfect dyeing . I claim that it sa ? caused o n the loom or I n finishing . What do you y (4 387 ) A careful examination of this sample of denim shows not a streak as mentioned in the inquiry, but it does seem to be due to any irregularity in the color of t h e warp . This conclusion is arrived at by closely following the COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 27

course of the warp threads . If there was any irregularity in the dyeing of the warp it would not show so promi ntl ne y for such a short distance ; besides , the unevenness departs so abruptly from the straight course of the warp that it leads one to believe that the trouble is with the goods after weaving . It might be well , however, to give a thorough inspection of the warps after beaming, and also to watch the weaving . Owing to the unevenness of a thev the streaks , it does not seem possible th t are due to the loom .

SHEETING C ONSTRUCTIONS

o I W uld like to have the construction of the gray cloth , width, count and weight of wide sheetings , especially the

63 . width, or inch , and width Some sheetings are heavy and some light . I am interested in the lighter goods which would weigh perhaps as light as yards to

- - the pound in 63 inch . The well known brands I have in mind are : V V a msu tta Dwight Anchor, Pequot, Pembroke, , Pepperell ,

Lockwood, Utica Steam Mills .

‘

N O . doubt, there are various others Prices on these are quoted in various textile papers , but without the discounts .

I presume the discount would be 1 05 and per cent . If therefore I had the constructions and could ascertain the quotations from time to time , it would give me a line

o f . on the prices of goods this class Apart from the above, if you happen to know of any list that is published giving

i. e . n the constructions Of gray goods , , the ordinary u ' bleached sheetings , sold to the jobbing trade under difi er ent in brands , I would also be glad to have that formation . (3385)

Knowing Of no list which shows the constructions of the - various well known brands of sheetings, we have endeavored to obtain the information desired by analysis of Samples 1 0 -4 n difi er en Of u bleached goods from several t mills . It is possible that this method o f procedure may prove I n z inequitable some cases , since the sample analy ed might prove to be of slightly better or Of slightly lower quality in s H than the commercial run of the goods que tion . ow 28 TEXTILE WORLD

ever, the results should approximate the information

desired .

RESULTS OF ANALYSIS OF G RAY SHEETINGS Name Width Texture Weight

— Utica Utica S . M . V . Cotton Mills 68 x 68 — o Mohawk Utica S . M . V . C tton 68 x 68 Pepperell -Pepperell M a nu f a c tu r

ing CO .

— Lockwood Lockwood CO . Dwight Anchor Dwight Manu f a t r in 0 2 c u g C o . 7 x 7 Pequot— Na umkeag Steam Cotton 90 CO . Colonial — An droscogginMills 90 f — Fruit o the Loom B . R . Knight 90 — am 90 New Bedford W sutta Mills . ) W amsutta Percale 90 x 1 08 ’ ' In the writer s judgment all of the samples _ above e of analyzed consist d carded yarns, with the p robable “ ” W amsu tta o f exception Of the Percale, the appearance which seemed to indicate that c ombed yarn s were employed e hic ha in its manufactur . F rom the information w h s been f t t h oun m I O o e presented, the approxi ate number yards p d , - in the 7 4 width c an readily be obtained by c alculation . the of 7 — 4 as The following are various weights the goods, calculated : Utica Pepperell Colonial New Bedford Dwight Mohawk Lockwood Pequot Fruit of the Loom Wamsu tta Percale

30 TEXTILE WORLD

a nd 3 . it might be brought down as low as per cent , providing that the cop from the mule is firm and is handled properly between the mule and the loom . “ ” What are termed stabbed cops make the most waste , for the average weaver will not take the time to pull the f stabbed part from the inside o the cop . The result is n f that a whole cop is made into waste . This co dition o the cop is often brought about by careless doffin g at th e o r o f mule, by careless handling the filling after it is v ' ' x e e er o f placed in the filling bo . Wh n w av s find a cop filling in this condition they will either throw the c o p o r back into the filling box pull it u p into waste . It h s to er c enta e o f does not take many w ole cop make the h m p g waste ount up . Another cause o f excessive waste is too sudden check of or o f ing the shuttle in the loom, the careless handling l the checking device by the o omfi xer . Many mills have adopted the system o f Weighing daily the waste from

‘ fixer ’s and some e so each section, mills hav even gone far _ a s to pay a monthly bonus - to fix er s making t he least waste . The making o f co p waste ha s always been a serious problem in weaving mills , owing to the ease with . which

! c O e ffi o f a p can be convert d into waste, and the di culty n determining how much waste h as really been made. U less they are checked; weavers will persist in cleaning the W machinery and floor ith cop waste, and many times this i s done i n order to help the lo o mfi xer make a record f and receive a bonus . The waste used in the cleaning O the looms is thrown into the general waste can . This problem is handled in o ne mill a s f o llows :Weavers are permitted to put waste in the general waste can or box at e is in only a certain hour, and all wast exam ed before going into the box . The situation as regards cop waste has at times been so acute with some mills that extraordinary means have been employed to find o ut where the was te was going . One mill discovered that a wea ver wa s taking waste and cops home in a large dinner basket and disposing of the t m material o an auto obile repair man . Rewinding of yarn is recommended by some authorities a to reduce the amount of waste in weaving , incre se produc COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 31

tion and improve the quality of the cloth . In the April 1 921 E OR 1 6, , issue of T XTILE W LD there appeared a reprint of a paper presented by G eorge W . Foster before the Textile Division of the American Society of Mechanical

E ngineers , which showed the advantages resulting from rewinding filling yarn .

RI GGING U P A JAC! UARD Kindly suggest the best way to rig up a 60 0 jacquard machine to make material for 90 0 ends . We understand “ ” it is arranged o n a process called a double scale . (2 908)

o f A wide variety jacquards are made, both as regards the number of hooks and density of sley . The number of hooks does not designate the sley of a jacquard ; there are heavy, medium and light sley machines . The low sley is ne used for heavy yarns, the medium for cottons and the fi index for silks . We are assuming the inquirer wants to increase the sley f of the jacquard . There are two ways o doing this if the ground is such that the figure is separated , and the ground is either plain o r 5 end satin . This ground can be run by a separate set of harnesses located back o f the comber board and run either by a small dobby or cams, the figure to be run by the jacquard . If the pattern is what is “ ” - termed an all over pattern , then the work is best left to the loom builders , for it means the introduction of three o f hundred more lines each repeat the machine, and there must be at least seven repeats in the machine . This means o ne in two thousand hundred lines, mails and l goes to be added to a machine designed to carry a great deal less . To do this in the correct manner the depth of the comber board will have to be increased o ne-half ; a rather f delicate job or anyone but an expert . The jacquard machine will have to be moved back So that the pull will n i be even o all lines . In doing th s the original lines are o ut of all thrown line, because the comber board must not e nl be mov d , o y added to . It will then be necessary to new replace the original lines with ones, a rather costly ‘ in E job , but Often done in mills urope, because they are eq uipped to do this work . After this is completed the 32 TEXTILE WORLD

Oper ator will run up against a snag in f orming a proper o n a s shed the new lines , very few jacquards are equipped with an arrangement for tipping the gr ifi e and the rear threads will not rise high enough . We would t advise the inquirer to write o the jacquard builders .

COTT ON CLOTH CALCULATIONS

Will y ou kindly give me what in your Opinion is the

‘ most simple method of figu ring the f ollowing : (1 ) If a cloth 54 inches wide weighs per linea r is ? W t is yard, what the weight per sq uare yard ha the 4 0 - h I 6 7 or 8 ? h weight in inch widt ? s it , ounces S ow the method o f arriving at figures . 2 n 75 is 35 ( ) If a cloth 54 inches wide weighi g 1 . cents is ? S per pound, what the price per linear yard how the method . (3 ) If a cloth 4 0 inches wide is 1 0 ounces in4 0 inch 1 4 is th e c Ost ? width, costing cents per yard, what pound

Show method . (4 ) I f a cloth is 9 ounces in 4 0 inch what is the

Weight I n 54 inch ? Show method . 5 is 92 a e hi ( ) If a cloth cents per squ r yard, weig ng h ow is it ? ounces to square yard, much per p ound 4 1 Show method . ( 30 ) (1 ) A cloth 54 inches wide which weighs yards per

-

09 _ . pound will weigh\ 6 . ounces per square yard The method may be explained a s f ollows :A piec e o f cloth - 54 inches by 36 inches weighs that portion Of a ‘ pound which is represented by 1 + since there are linear 2 b t thi . 1 . 57 u s yards per pound , must be 57 2 1 6 1 6 to re . . multiplied by duce it to ounces X _ 4 o f hi ounces per yard at 5 inch width . A yard cloth w ch weighs ounces at 54 inch width Will weigh propor ti a el o n t y les s at 36 inch Width .

X 3 6 54 ounces per square yard . The condensed formula follows : 36 X 1 6 54 X At 4 0 inch Width the cloth would weigh ounces p er s yard , as follow X 4 0 36

1 34 TEXTILE WORLD

work . G etting in late is a serious fault of the h many mills and few realize what a great loss it f to the company . The loss o a few minutes in the morn and at noon time means a loss o f many yards in daily production . The overseer should arrive before time o f starting and stand near the door o f his room he can see the help a s they come in and be Seen He will not find it necessary to say a word to see o n t h e th when they _him lookout e i a point to avoid beinglat . It s bad the second hands to look after this important

The second - hands should see that the looms are 8 on time and also _report any weavers that are o ut . The overs eer should also keep a watch for 1 0 0 waiting f or weavers and u se every efi o r t to get th so started as soon as possible . I do not believe in the

- called doubling up to keep the looms ru nning . ’The over seer should find o ut t he c ause Of each weaver s absence and have a list of spare weavers that h e can call o n in _

— f r n . I is o o d o a such an emergency t a very g g plan over seer to have the addresses o f all the operatives under his

supervision . He should keep p osted regarding the number “ o f warps running ou t and the number that are expected c t e fix er s to ome into the room, arranging h work for the so that it will be distributed throughout the day and not e come all in a heap . Whil looking after these matters

see t a - he can whe her the w rps are in proper condition , and '

th e r e ed . nn if not , apply m y at once The spi er is Often blamed f o r bad warp s when the spooling and dressing -' Af r oom is responsible . ter the yarn leaves the spinner it can be pulled to pieces in spo oling and warping and ui zi ba d to r ned in the si ng. It takes but a few warps demoralize the best o f weave rooms The overseer should keep close track of the reports from his department - so that he may kn ow just h o w the

diff erent styles are distributed among the looms . The reports should be sent to the office as early a s possible so that the superintendent can keep in close touch with the

work o f the mill and make his report to his superiors . When making these reports o f production any bad work o r shortage o f warps or filling should be noted in order that all in authority may know o f anything wrong and COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 35

apply the remedy if possible . The overseer of weaving should be able to detect bad work and quickly determine no t its cause . To do this he must understand the processes

only in his own department , but also the preceding and o f subsequent processes of manufacture . The production th e weave room depends in great measure on the good

. Fo r work done in the preceding processes . this reason the utmost care should be given to the manufacture o f the

yarn and its preparation for the loom . He should pay special attention to the management o f fi xer the loom s . If they do good work he should tell

them so, as this goes a long way toward stimulating them . Under no circumstances should he allow the fi xer s to be

r ude and discourteous to the weavers . E very fixer should be made to understand that he must respond promptly

and pleasantly when the wea ver calls him . The trouble may be trifling and caused by’the weaver herself , but fi xer regardless of this it is the s duty to go to the loom,

investigate for himself and apply the remedy .

COM PARATIVE M ANUFACTURING COST OF COTTON AND LINEN FABRICS In connection with one of our investigations it becomes indirectly of considerable importance to know in a broad way about what the ratio is between total manufacturing (spinning and weaving ) costs o f cotton drills and sheet “ ” o f ings of the general class known as heavies , and

mi o f . si lar linen fabrics, a corresponding grade After exhausting all the printed and personal sources of inf orma tion to which we have immediate access without getting ( on much light this question, it occurs to me that there is probably someone in your organization who could readily

v e u s . so t the answer If , will you not kindly thus m E e . ul o f oblige xact data, while they wo d course be ! not of interest, are essential to the present purpose . t at we need is merely the approximate average figure t f or linen which would correspond with manufacturing f or costs cotton goods . (3867 )

The manufacturing cost per pound of linen goods is to 3 times the manufacturing cost of similar cotton

goods . The spinning of linen is a much more difi c ult 1 36 TEXTILE WORLD

proposition than spinning cotton . The processes pre paratory to spinning are much slower and more expensive, and although linen is stronger than cotton it does not

so it . v weave well , owing to s having less elasticity A wea er o n linen could run only about half the number of looms o n run cotton .

ST ORING GRAY GO ODS

A question has arisen in ou r plant a s to the proper of n o f whic h we c on method stori g gray goods, , have a sider l ab e quantity on hand . At present all gray goods yardage in this plant is in the shape o f large rolls c on e o n taining sev ral hundred yards each, which are stood i end o n cement floors . So far a s the writer knows this s o the customary method of storing in cotton mills . N doubt the question ha s been more thoroughly worked ou t is in such mills, and whatever their customary procedure f would be the proper method in ou r case . It would be o use to u s to know the accepted method o f storing gray 4 1 good I n rolls . ( 57 ) G ray goods generally come in bales , and these bales are r c om sto ed in any dry place that is available . The bales u o n is r a c mo ly rest directly the floor, although it better p tice o n the lower floor to have skids at least two inches th e s o n a s hi above the floor for good to rest , t s would am i n o f help to prevent d age case sprinkler leaks, and also prevent the goods ! from drawing moisture from t he

if e . floor it were concrete, consequently becoming mildew d It is not customary for mills to Ship their gray goods mi in rolls , but the inquirer may buy from nearby lls r where there would be no object in baling . Pe haps the best form of storage is that employed with high grade l ar e si k goods, where the gray goods put on rolls, rods ~ o n put through the rolls , and the rods supported each ’ end by a frame so that ther e is no pressure on the fabric .

We the referred question to three mill men, and their il ne remarks w l be of interest . O man states that while gray cotton goods generally come in bales a nd are stored

-o u in any dry place, that if the goods do come rolls it ' n should be all right to store them o end . If the rolls

38 TEXTILE WORLD

seer posted as to undesirable conditions existing in o ut fi ie department, smooths dif cult s among the help , in general does all in his power to assist in the effec tiv

operation o f the department .

TEST F OR COTTON AND WO OL

Can you furnish us with method and formula f o determining the percentage o f cotton and wool in me knitting yarn and underwear cloth ? Perhaps the simplest test to determine the percentage o f cotton and wool in yarns o r f abrics made from cotton and wool mixtures is a s follows :Weigh a fair sized o f or sew it sample the cloth yarn , then up in a small

‘ cheese cloth bag and boil the sample f or 1 5 minutes in

a 1 0 per cent . Solution o f caustic potash . Rinse the ou t sample well, then squeeze the surplus water by f ri . o w nging in a cloth What is left . the sample after m is hi ul t this treat ent cotton, w ch sho d be exposed o the

n W . f ope air until dry, and then eighed A comparison o the weight before the treatment with the w eight after ward i i w ll indicate the percentage o f cotton n the yarn .

E a e f 2 x mp l . A sample o clo th weighs 0 gr ains before in ou t 7 r boil g , and g ains afterward, find the percentage

f 2 = f 7 0 35 r c . . o cotton, pe ent cotton

H U M I D I FI C ATHTN or SAW-T O OTH WEAVE SH ED

“ ‘ Will yo u kindly give me any advice yo u may have a s to ' - the need o f humidifiers I n a saw tooth weave - shed f o r weaving narrow fabrics ? I know it is customary to have a humidifying system in cotton cloth weave sheds, but is it necessary in a shed for weaving narrow fabrics ? (3337 )

The need o f a humidifier equipment in a saw-tooth o r weave shed for weaving narrow fabrics, any other textile product , is just as great as it is for any other r st ucture . The type of construction does not in any case eliminate th e desirability o f having uniform relative COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 39 humidity and the necessity of suitable humidifi c a tio n equipment to provide humidity . The only manner in which various types o f construction have a direct bearing on the humidifying equipment is in determining the size of such equipment . A sawtooth structure has , for obvious z reasons , a decided advantage in reducing the si e of equipment needed , especially if it has good ceiling height and the humidifying equipment is well designed . We believe that the necessity for installing suitable humidifying equipment in a saw -tooth weave shed for weaving narrow fabrics is of even more importance than i if wide fabrics of most kinds are be ng woven , since uniformity in width and strength are of more importance, and these are in great measure dependent upon uniformity in atmospheric conditions .

SHRINKAGE OF C OTTON AND LINEN FABRICS

I am interested in the shrinkage o f cotton and linen fabrics, and would like information o n the following points : 1 . What action takes place when cotton and linen 4 6 fabrics are steeped in water (say, to hours ) and then dried naturally and artificially ?

2 . Does the rate of drying make any difi er enc e to the shrinkage ?

3 . Is there any difference in shrinking properties in

(a ) ordinary cotton fabrics, (b ) mercerized, (c ) a fabric made from a mercerized cotton warp and ordinary cotton filling ? 4 . What process would v o u propose in order to obtain the maximum shrinkage ? (34 4 6 )

These questions could properly form the basis o f ex

tended research work , as perhaps complete answers to them

cannot be given by anyone . The construction o f the yarns and the fabrics would influence the shrinkage ; also the o f conditions weaving would be a factor . The following answers are offered and we would be glad to have them supplemented o r criticized by readers : 4 0 TEXTILE WORLD

1 . Cotton and linen fabrics when wetted with water t and dried naturally will shrink o a certain extent , depend ing upon the kind and weight o f yarn in the cloth . These fibres when dried naturally give up their excess o f f o r moisture over the normal content, which is cotton

f r 1 2 . . o per cent , and linen per cent When these two b e o f fi res are dri d artificially, and the total amount i off is moisture they contain s driven , the shrinkage slightly greater than when dried normally .

2 e d f a to o f . Opinions app ar to if er s the amount shrinkage due to either slow or rapid drying . It would seem rational to believe that rapid drying would cause

u greater shrink in the goo ds than when dried slowly

3 n not 6 r . Cotto , previously treated, shrinks about p e e . f cent M rcerized cotton, already freed rom the natural i of o o not to mpurities the c tt n fibre, does have much lose, c o nsequently the possibility o f further shrinkage is reduced to a minimum .

O 4 F r of r dinar z e . o ab ics made both y~ and merc eri d _ ‘ cotton are likely to shrink more in the direction of the

- it rin ordinary cotton . In the case cited, would sh k more

i i h ~ in w dth than n lengt .

Another corr espondent replies to these questions a s :O ri o follows rdinarily, sh nkage applies to either weight r ‘ i 1 r t e . s o yardage That , the loss caused by pr ocess , h yardage n o t restored or increased by mechanical means . It would a ppear from the run of the ques tion that the

f was ! f thi in ormation desired yardage shrinkage, and rom s point it will be considered .

’ The characteristics of f abrics as to processes are not covered and these govern the shrinkage to a great extent . s e ka That is, if the good were lim boiled the shrin ge would no t be a s much were the goods given a soda ash or caustic

. w boil Then, the follo ing points have to be considered Cloth construction ; twist ; tight or loose weave ; amount of handling required ; staple o f cotton used . When either cotton o r linen is steeped in water there is a slight shrinkage which is more pronounced through the e use o f artificial heat than when dri d naturally . The rate o f drying influences to some extent the shrinkage . By rapid drying the efi ec t is more noticeable than by a slow

1 4 2 TEXTILE WORLD

t table . This is but o ne of many examples of convenien arrangements that are possible .

If the mill is driven by electric power, an independent is c o n motor the proper thing, arranging the mill with ne tio n c s so as to take power from outside sources . This is very convenient in case the mill is no t running and i to there is no steam up . It s also a good plan have f a gas o r gasolene engine . In the absence o this auxiliary there should be a small steam engine which can be run in n A “ case of a breakdow . nother very convenient power appliance is a small dynamo f or lighting the repair shop o f ni in case ght work .

‘ The machine equipme nt of a repair shop dep ends On th of s a s largely e equipment the mill , and a far possible should enable the repairs to be made without aid from i c f or u . F w s the outside, ex ept fo ndry work ollo ing a o f e list useful machines . A lathe that will handle pull ys

“ u p to 60 -inch diameter by 24 inch face ; a shafting lathe that will swing 2 0 f eet b etween center s with a screw

‘ ac n 6 f 1 6 cutting att hment ; two engi e lathes , eet by inches , both to have screw cutting attachments and ! o ne o f them “ to have taper turning and boring attachment ; a “ speed _ lathe 4 8 inches by 1 2 inches ; a u niv er sa I milling machine ; or 36 an upright drill, better yet a radial drill ; a planer inches by 36 inches by 96 inches ; a two -wheel wet emery ri Fo r e saw . : g nder the carp nter shop A cir’cular ; a hand saw ; a buzz planer ; a patter n maker s lathe ; a boring m r d ne o r i an achine ; and a g imsto . F the pip ng d plumb e :6 . o r ing A in’ch pipe cutting and threading machin F the blacksmith s shop :A good power blower ; a bolt threading

ma c M e . o f s machine ; a nut tapping There are, cour e,

‘ other machines that under certain conditions add to the

ffi of . For o ne economical e ciency the shop example, in mill a 4 5 to 50 there w s a turret lathe, which was kept busy from hours a week . In another mill there was a turret lathe O 1 0 1 5 i that was not running ver to hours a week, in wh ch case the machine would not pay the interest on the investment .

o f The number machinists , carpenters and other help needed varies in different mills . Following is an estimate : A machinist to look after the card room wor k ; o ne f o r the spinning room ; o ne f or the weave shop ; one for the COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 4 3

two cloth room, dye house and all around work ; carpenters to care for endless belts and wood work ; a blacksmith ; a piper and an all around man for helper whenever needed . These will make a good complement of help for a mill o f the size named .

WARM TH OF COTTON GARM ENTS

In night clothing for children , which would be warmer, bleached or unbleached cotton ? G ive the reason for the 32 68 conclusion reached . ( ) The warmth of a garment is dependent upon the number

- of air cells that it contains , air being a non conductor of heat ; consequently the greater number of air spaces it is possible to weave into the goods , the greater the

warmth the fabric will have, in comparison to a fabric o f lesser thickness , but woven with the same kind of flannel r . s o yarn It is for this reason that , cotton wool , woven of soft y arns have greater warmth than other

f n . fabrics o the same weight, but woven of harder yar s It is to be doubted whether bleached or unbleached cotton

will have any advantage over the other, provided the

goods have no dressing . If unbleached cotton cloth is u t thoroughly boiled o , and freed from oils and waxes

natural to the fibre, other conditions being equal as to o f the count of yarn and weight fabric , the apparent warmth should be the same . Any“one interested in this subj ect should read the article Testing Blankets for mi 1 6 1 91 7 Heat Trans ssion , in the June , , issue of E TEXTIL WORLD .

FASTENING CLOTH T O IRON

Please inf orm me what kind of paste or gum is be st to fasten cloth on i ron ? (44 1 0 )

One of the best adhesives for this purpose is to make a di mi paste with or nary flour and water, by xing flour in

the water and boiling . This paste should be of such a

consistency that it will work easily from a brush , but a t ” without being so fluid s o run . After the paste is of made, stir in carefully a small amount soda ash, a 1 4 4 TEXTILE WORLD quantity suffi cient to cause the paste to assume a slightly

i h t. yellowish tint . In applying it see that it s still o F irst clean the iron surface, and then coat it with the t paste ; in the meantime apply the paste o the cloth , taking care that the surface is thoroughly covered and rubbed d . o n be in In putting the cloth the iron, it must smoothe t o u so that there are no folds o r wrinkles . Another paste that is equally useful f or both leather and cotton cloth is to make a thin ho t solution o f good o r t in a of glue . S oak the leather co ton cloth solution t the . o tannic acid Apply the glue solution iron, and then apply the leather o r cloth under pr essure . If the ha s a m t job been carefully done, it will be l os impossible e t to separate from the mtal wi hout tearing . Fo r covering pulleys with paper the u se o f the flour paste and soda ash combination above described is without n an equal . The writer has seen pulleys the paper o which had to be removed with the aid o f chisels .

S E M ERY _oN STEEL ROLL

Will y ou give me the best wa y to make coarse emery stick to a steel roll ? We have several Of these to take

w . e f do n the work We hav tried several kinds o glue , none 4 384 o f Which hold to the steel . ( )

E n t k ‘ mery does o stic well to steel rolls with glue . The method used is fir st to wind the roll closely with good e twine . G roov s sho uld be put in each end of the roll to

i i l e hi e hold the first strand n p ac . T s groove will prev nt th he the twine from sliding over e ends . T twine covering on the roll is next saturated with a go od glue . Moist coarse emery in a container is held about 3 feet above the roll and the roll is revolved slowly while the e mery is e be t c dropped upon it, a canvas being plac d low o atch

e . ne e er i n the surplus mery O coat of coarse m y s put o , and then finer grade emery is applied in the same way

to fill up the holes. This method is successf ul with c a rd

b . grinders, oth roll and traverse Another method is to wind the rolls with emery tape or fillet . This comes in inch ’widths . The fir st ne method is the better o in the writer s opinio n . A good f o . grade twine is required , not quite inch in diameter

1 4 6 TEXTILE WORLD separate one -yard o r two -yard lengths and weigh them separately . B AD SELVAGE S — Dirt o n grate bars near machine sides ; cotton accumulating on stripping plate edges ; cotton adhering to the cage-end leathers ; placing the lap roller o f very carelessly on the layer cotton, thereby denting the machine sides ; finisher lap width too wide compared with laps fed ; rough machine sides ; cotton passing between machine sides and cage ends .

— n LAPS SPLITTING . Too much weight o lap racks ; smooth calender rollers insufficiently weighted ; too much soft waste o r short fibre in the mixing; damp cotton o r atmos pher e ; oil dropping o n the cotton ; hopper bale breaker fed with thick layers o f cotton ; f an draught too strong ; uh r e F suitable division o f air c d r nt at the cages . rench chalk sprinkled on smooth calender rollers o r a smooth board bearing by its o wn weight o n the rotating lap have mi proved of assistance to mini ze split laps .

FAULTY CARDING

B AD SELV AGES ON DOFFER W E B — Waste accumulated under screens near card sides ; bad selvages o n scutcher la p ; o il escaping from taker-in and cylinder beari ngs ; lap guide plates no t properly set ; waste gathered between i o f an o f -in mote kn ves at sides card, d at ends taker and d h o f cylinder screens , waste wedge etween sides card and o f I n l n h -in ends taker and cyi der ; defective teet on taker , cylinder and dofi er a t sides o f card ; front knife plate Ii gathering cotton at sides ; loose tail e ds o f clothing .

F I D — n a LATS STR PPING BA LY . Wire o some fl ts longer than o n others ; dirt between ends o f flats a nd chain ; damp flats ; stripping comb no t properly set ; flat cleaning ni t r bru sh not acting properly ; front k fe pla e rough, di ty, set to o o r i -in e close, buckled nwards ; taker te th damaged ; false air currents ; waste wedged in the c yh nder under casing ; flats slackly fitted to the chain ; carrier bowls badly worn o r furrowed ; dirt o n milled seatings o f flats ; o dd

flats not resting o n the flexible bends during car din g . CLOUDY CARDIN G — Defective lap piecings ; lap licking ; uneven laps ; careless handling o f laps ; laps badly started at finisher scutcher ; defective lap roller on cards ; dirt in COTTON MILL HAN DBOOK 1 4 7 feed roller flutes ; feed plate set too far from taker-in ; unsuitable shape o f feed plate face ; dull or crooked taker-in teeth ; damaged mote knife ; feed roller clea rer o r -in crooked , badly covered , not acting properly ; taker cover not satisfactorily joined up to the back knife plate ; irregular distance between the feed plate nose and taker-in o ne or f cover ; side , even the whole Width , of dof er too far from the cylinder ; card moved out of proper position by driving belt ; neglecting to remove flat strippings from dofi er cover ; cylinder dropped a trifle due to slack cone

- bush ; fillet slack at places, badly shaped tail ends , or devoid of wires at intervals ; rounds of fillet not wound close enough, or slipped to one side of card ; bare surfaces not trued up ; wire knocked down ; front knife plate set too near ; card not stripped often enough or at irregular intervals ; excessive fly beneath u nder c a sings ; grinding o f wire not properly attended to .

P E — -in NE PY W B Waste wedged between the ends of taker , doffer and cylinder and framework of card ; cylinder and dofi er set too close ; oil on card clothing ; grinding of f cylinder dof er, and flats not accomplished often enough , i r o r r . F o very carelessly car ed out lats set too close to , c h nder too far from, the y ; front knife plate buckled, bent, o r rough dirty ; waste wedged between the undercasing , perforations or bars and the mote knives ; doffer comb set too close to the doff er ; taker-in and cylinder under casings set too near the card clothing ; edge of taker-in cover an incorrect distance from the feed plate ; grinding of clothing not accomplished often enough or carelessly performed ; waste from beneath the taker-in and cylinder not removed often enough ; damp cotton ; heavy carding in ' combination with close settings ; cylinder and doffer not stripped often enough o r the stripping brush not acting deep enough ; taker-in teeth damaged ; dofler not stripped before star ting up after dofi er comb band has broken ; waste gathered in spaces where badly shaped tail -ends occur ; feed roller clearer waste passing forward at

intervals . WE B SAGGING AND FOLLOWING DOFFER — Doffer comb to o or to o low or high in position, too slow in speed ; speed of calender rollers too slow ; doffer comb too far ff ffi from do er wire, dirty, or insu cient length of stroke ; do fler r t o r dofi er trumpet di y, sticky rough ; wire hooked , 1 4 8 TEXTILE WORI D or hollow in places ; draughts reaching the card ; thick a nd thin places in lap and bad piecings ; too much moisture dofi r in atmosphere ; e comb fitting badly, excessive vibra to o e l tion in comb box, or driving band tight ; wir s ightly rusty ; atmosphere to o di y ; rotation of to p calender roller impeded ; scutcher lap o n card standing overnight and losing moisture .

‘ R S V — e en s VA IATION IN WEIGHT OF LI ER . Un v cutcher laps ; laps badly indented o r knocked out of shape ; lap not rotated evenly by lap roller ; careless piecing -u p of new laps ; laps allowed to run out ; bad cores of scutcher f e laps ; defective action o feed roll r.

FAULTY ROVING

E — bb or SINGLE AND DOUBL . Slub in slu ing intermediate prevented from passing thr ough the traverse guide hole at intermediate and roving frames respectively ; piecing full bobbins to the wrong end When creeling ; b obbins running empty quicker than can be replaced by the tender ; rough place on a bottom r oller causing lapping ; an end broken at f ront rollers a nd carried by the air current to be attached to the end passing through another flyer ; a very long piecing when c reeling ; single or double f rom pr evious r p oc esses.

CUT ROV ING — The pair s of rollers set to o close ; bottom roller strained ; a broken tooth I n one o f the roller wheels ; badly -worn cap nebs ; a r oller gearing meshed too deeply ; sections of bottom rollers loose at the connections ; lea ther coverings o n top rollers badly pieced ; to o much draf t .

' S UB S - W c r eel loo se or t L aste from _ ; fly fud accumula ed on tops of bobbins in the creel ; pieces o f drawing frame waste in the slubbing ; an end breaking at the front roll ers and attaching itself to the end passing th rough a nother fi yer ; tenders carelessly wiping down the roller beam and allowing some of the fly to become attached to the ends between the flyer s and front rollers ; waste not r e moved often enough from creel guide rods and p ar ts surrounding the top and bottom rollers ; waste gatherin g in flyer eye and hollow leg and passing forward at intervals ; tenders allowing some o f the waste to become to b th fl er s attached the obbin when cleaning e y .

50 TEXTILE WORLD not being properly cleaned at doffing time ; incorrect size of ratchet wheel ; tenders interfering with the building motion ; front top roller retarded in speed .

E — SLAC K NDS . Slack winding ; cone belt slipping owing to being too dry, too slack, overloaded ; bobbin rail racks binding in the slides ; spindle collars short o f o il or s clogged with waste and dirt, and the collar not correctly adjusted ; tender neglecting to piece up a broken end for o r some time, not replacing an empty bobbin in the creel ; roving not wrapped often enough round the presser arm .

FAULTS I N YARN

— ° A. of THI C K AND WIRY YARN . broken end in front the rollers b ecoming attached to an adjacent end ; three ends o f ' roving passing through o ne guide eye when u sing double o r o f roving , two ends rov ng being combined in case of i “ ” single roving ; long roving pi ecings when creeling ; double in the roving as received from the card roo m ; the spinner allowing the broken end - to be twisted too long before

effecting the actual piecing .

SOFT YARN — Slack single bands ; twist change wheel to o large ; empty bobbins not properly pushed down during doffing ; upper bearing o f b o bbins badly worn ; upper

“ bearing o f bobbins blocked with waste ; spindle cups full

o f waste .

THIN PLA C E S — A broke n tooth in o ne of t he roller wheels ; sections o f bottom rollers not tightly fitted together ; hard matter in the roots of the roller wheels ; stretched roving ; blunt skewer points ; traver se guide holes blocked with waste ; too much soft waste in the mxing ; creel rods not in proper position;

— I e - SLUBS . Too long an overlap ’when p c Ing u p ends at the front ; waste held in spin ner s hand allowed to catch on the end when piecing up carelessly removing waste from bottom clearer ; waste dropping from top clearer o n

the roving between the rollers .

DIRTY AND OI L - S TAINED YARN — Making pie cings of roving or yarn with oily fingers ; full roving bobbin s rolling on the floor during conveyance from one ro om to COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 51

another ; placing full roving boxes on boxes of unprotected rovings ; dirty roving boxes ; waste dropping on to the roving or yarn when cleaning parts above the frame ; oily ro ving bobbins ; base of roving bobbins making contact with clean roving when thrown in the boxes during doffing; too much oil on roller necks ; oil escaping from various parts o f the roving frame and flying o n to

the roving .

— CLOUDY YARN . Draft too small ; distance from the front to middle rollers too small ; leather rollers not held in proper position by the cap bar nebs ; poor mixing ;

waste at the traverse guide holes ; front top rollers rough ,

hollow, soft or channelled ; leather covering too slack on the rollers ; roving stretched either at the roving frame or

while unwinding at the ring frame .

RULES AND TABLES

The following ru les , tables , etc . , will be of interest to practical mill men , and represent the p“ractice recommended - E by Saco Lowell Shops , in their book Cotton Mill quip ment” TABLE OF LE NG TH

1 thread circumference of

1 or skein, lea

7 a skeins , or le s

5 0 7 or 6 threads skeins , leas

TABLE OF WE IG HT

1 o z . grains (gr . ) ounce ( ) grains 1 6 ounces 1 pound (lb )

1 0 00 Weight in Grains o f 1 2 0 Yards of Yarn No .

o f yar n . 1 52 TEXTILE WORLD

1 00 PE E R C NT . PRODU C TION C ONSTANT S

Per Spindle Per Day of 1 0 Hours (600 Minutes ) Ru1 e °

“

. M . R P . o f Front Roll Constant Hanks in 1 0

Hours .

P . f . M R . o Front Roll Constant Number of Yarn Pounds in 1 0 Hours 0 2 6 Constant for 1 inch Roll Circumf erence .

Th e following allowances to be d educted f rom 1 00 per a cent . production s given by the above rule

Warp Number o f Allowance Yarn

1 2 38 to 58

1 1 58 to 1 08 1 0 1 08 to 2 08 9 2 08 to 3 08

7 30 8 to 4 08 5 4 0 8 to 508 5 508 to 60 8 3 608 to 808 2 808 to 1 008

(E xamp le :To find h ow many hanks o f number 30 , warp yarn per spindle per day fl of 1 0 hours will be p r o du c ed by a frame withs a 1 inch front roll ru nning at 1 1 7 . . r p m . 2 062 . . 1 1 7 X . hanks Deduct 8% from 7 5, leaving

hanks .

SPE E D OF FRONT ROLL

' Revolutions of Spindles — e (Twist p er I nc h Circum

ference o f Front Roll ) Revolutions of Front Roll .

SPE E D OF SPINDL E S Revolutions of Front Roll X Circumference of Front

Roll Twist per Inch Revolutions o f Spindles .

T O FIND TH E DRAFT :

Numbers of Yarn Hank Roving Draft .

1 54 TEXTILE WORLD

FOR CHANGING NUMBE R OF YARN :

o f Present Twist G ear Sq . Root of Present Number R o f R o f Yarn Sq . oot equired Number Yarn

Required Twist G ear .

L ay FOR CHANG ING NUMBE R OF YARN :

R o f Present Lay G ear Sq . oot of Present Number R R Nu O f Yarn Sq . oot of equired mber Yarn

Required Lay G ear .

TO D E TE RM I N E L E N G TH OF TIM E B OB B I N WI LL L AST I N CRE E L

Rule

84 0 Yards Hank Rov1 ng 1 6 Yards in 1 Ounce .

Yards in 1 Ounce Ounces o n Full Bobbin Yards

o n Bobbin . a f F R F n R Rev . o Y rds per Rev . of ro t oll ront oll in D r F per Min . X 60 M . Yards elive ed by ront

Roll per H o ur .

' Total Yards o n Creel Bobbi n Draft Yards Delivered by Front Roll p e r Hour Number o f i l Hours Creel Bobbin Wl Last .

D e i e . 1 . 0873 er Diam Front Roll l vers . Yards p R volution

:F D 07 63 r er Re . Diam ront Roll elivers . Ya ds p volution COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 55

TABLE FOR N U M BERING CARD OR DRAWING SLIVER

L E Wei ht in G r a n s o f 1 a r d f S v r RU . g i Y o li e H ank

We ight I n We ight in Weight in a k a k a k H n G r a in s H n G r a ins H n G r a ins h C TEXTILE WORLD

1 58 TEXTILE WORLD

APPRO XI M ATE N U M BER OF TRAVELER FOR WARP AN D FILLI N G Y ARN

WARP

a m Di .

Ring S dIS' In c hes p

' 7 550 COTTON MILL HANDBOOK

DRAPER’S TAB LE Of B r eaking Weight in Pounds per Skein of AM ERIC AN WARP Y ARN I N D E X T O C O N T E N T S

Air Cleaning I n Pic king Aver age Count o f Ya r n Avoir dupois Weight T able

B alls Fo rming B ehind a r ess B nding, D ing B a r e Spindle Ring Spinning ea s t c B ming, End S i king in ea a r o n B m, Y n ea er s A a ta es o f and R a e B t , dv n g Pin igid Bl d B eating C otton in th e Pic ker r ea r n r B king St e gths o f Ply C otton Ya ns . .

C able T wist “ a Calc ul ting Length o f C u t . Calc ulating N umber o f Ya r ds o n 3 Calc ulating Spindle Speed Calc ulations f o r T wist in Ply Ya r ns a r am e C d Clothing, J m d Car d Clothing Number s ar e W eb ec s in C d d , Sp k a r au ses o f C ding, C a r d n t C i g, Humidi y in Car d Room Co sts a r s ec e- r C d , Pi Wo k on a r s uc C d , Prod tion ar s Ru s T 0 0 F C d , nning Can ull

a r VVa ste ec in . C d , Ch k g . Causes o f D e f ec ts in Yarns “ Cau se s o f Weak Cotton Ya rns Changing Ya r n Number s th a a s 8 Clo C lc ul tion , F r e m e e in Clothing, ib E b dd d th R H mi Clo oom, u dity h d h C a c a s Clot Wi t , _ l ul tion Cloudy Ya rn

! e a r s ee s e s Comb d Y n , Sp d and W ight o er s r d c C mb , P o u tion b n Com i g, Humidity in r esse Air ea i F br es Comp d , Cl n ng i C onditioning Room f o r Ya rn tr a D u o s Con c tion e t Twi t . Contr a c tion in Cloth Width r ac r Cont tion, Wa p Contr olling Wa ste in Weaving

1 62 TEXTILE WORLD

Hank Cloc ks o n D r awing Fr ames Hawser T wist H u midifi c atio n o f Weave Sh ed Humidity in Cotton M anuf ac tur ing

a c a r R U J q u d, igging p

K no tted Ya r n

a s ef ec s in c er L p , D t Pi k L ap s Splitting Leno Wea ving f r T r r Loom o ubula Fab ic s. 1 Loom Layout f o r Plaid Loom Pr oduc tion e n f r T i L oom S tti g o w ll u Loom Width

er c er ze ar ffness in M i d Y n, Sti e a ses o f Mild w, C u ew a r n ea f r Mild , Y W k om er s s Multipli , Twi t

a r r w Fa r c s e e o f d N o b i , N d Humi ity ’ Over seer s Duties

P r h c er s e c . Pi k , Blow In c ker s ec e- r o n Pi , Pi Wo k c er s r c t Pi k , P odu ion - r Piec e Wo r k o n Pic ke s and Cards . Piec e-Wo r k o n Sla sher s Pin B eater and Rigid Bla de B eater a r s a c u a ei in a r Ply Y n , C l l ting W ght W p Polish f o r Cotton Power f o r Spinning P r oduc tion Constants P r oduc tio n o f Mac hiner y

! uestions and Answer s

Ratine Ya r n M anu f ac tur er s Reed Calc ula tions Reed L ength Reed Mar ks Reeds Re R s , moving u t Re a ea o f T er g in, M ning m COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 1 63

Re a T a b e o f g in, l Rep air Shop f o r Cotton M ill Rolle d S elvages Roll Sp eeds R n Fa u ovi g, lty R um d t oving, H i i y in Rules a nd T ables

ec - a d t es o f S ond H n , Du i eer s c er ff ec s ea n S u k E t , W vi g S elvage f o r Moleskin S elvage Motions S elvages Cur l ed Over Sheeting Co nstr uc tions Shr inkage o f Fabr ic s e e o f Shuttl , W ight Siz e Come s O ff Ya r n S1 zes o f a r s m er i Y n , Nu b ng Siz e S tic king to Cylinde r s z e e a r a r n Si , W ight on W p Y Sizing Bla c k Ya r n Siz ing Cotton Skeins Sizing Wa r p s Sla sher Blank ets Slasher Length o f Cut a s er s ec e- r o n Sl h , Pi Wo k Sley Ca lc ulations Sley Cloth a Re ed Will Weave er V a r at e t Sliv , i ion in W igh f t a c es t ar So Pl in Co ton Y n . Spec ks in Ca r ded Cotton W eb Sp eeds f o r C ombed Ya r ns ee o f Fr R Sp d ont oll . Split S elvages Spindle Lubr ic ation Spindle Sp eed o n Ring Fr ames Spindle Sp eeds er u es o f Spinn , D ti Spinning Colo r ed Ya r ns nn n Fr a es a u m er s Spi i g m , Ch nging N b Spinning; Humidity in n Fr a e r uc i Spinni g m , P od t on u d Spooling, H mi ity in Stained Yar n a r c h T a r e e Ru s in St nk, P v nting t Stiff ne ss in M e r c er iz ed Ya r n t r r a d . S o ing G y Goo s . Str eaky D enim 1 64 TEXTILE WORLD

T a ble f o r Number ing Sliver T a ble o f Ca r d P r oduc tion T a ble o f Cotton Regains T a ble o f D r a wing Fr ame P r odu c tion T able o f Roll Sp eeds T able o f T r a veler Weights T able s o f T wists T abl e o f Ya r n Counts T able o f Ya r n Length T able o f Ya r n Str ength T a e r u f R Fr . c o a e . bl , P od tion oving m T ake-up in Wa r p T ension in Winding T ension o n 2 T e st f o r Cotton a nd T e s r f o r ting, D ying Cloth T e sting Ya r n f or T r ea ds r e o f 3 h , St ngth Ply T r e F r r i ab ic Ya ns . . T r e er e h o f e to Run av l , L ngt T im T r a e er s u ber f o r v l , N m T u a r Fa r c s bul b i , T will Weave T wine Manu f a c tu r ing Co sts r

T wist a nd 1 T wist Calc ulations T w s ff ec o f i t, _ E t T w st ser a nd i , Haw T w s u d in i ting, H mi ity T s a r n r ac wi ting, Y n Co t tion T s in a r fl e c e o n T wi t Y n, In u n will T W s Rea s f o r D ire tio n i t, on g

War mth o f Cotton Gar ments Wa r p Contr a c tion Wa r p Ends Stic king

a r i d . W p ng, Humi ity in W ar p T ake -U p ar e t o f W p, W igh Wa r p Ya r n Stic king in B eaming a s e in a r d ec W t C ing, Ch king

Wa ste in Weaving . a s e a r s a c er f o r W t Y n , M hin y Weave f o r S elvage W eave Room M anagement

d t in . ea . W ving, Humi i y Weight o f Filling Weights f o r Combed Ya r ns W eights f o r Spinning Rolls