COTTON MILL HAN DBOOK FOR SUPERINTENDENTS AN D OV ERSEERS IN C OTTON YARN AN D C LOTH MI LLS TE X TI L E WORL D B RAGD L RD AN D AGLE MPA I NC C Y . ON . O N O N , Pu blish er s 334 F U RTH AV EN U E N EW Y RK U S A . O , O . FO REWO RD This book has been c ompiled for th o se engaged in cotton yarn and cloth manufacturing, and is intended to aid them in solving mill problems and making the necessary n . yar , cloth and machinery calculations Part I is devoted o f to methods yarn numbering, yarn and cloth calcula tions , and humidity in cotton manufacturing . Part II gives answers to over one hundred manufacturing prob lems that have been solved for cotton mill men and printed o n the ! uestions and Answers page of TEXTILE WORLD . Part III takes up the causes of defects in s yarn, and give useful rules and tables on production and A machinery calculations . carefully prepared index fol lowing Part III enables quick reference to be made to the various subjects . TEXTILE WORLD B C o . I N G G C . RA DON, LORD NA LE , Publishers COTTON MILL HANDBOOK TEXT I L E WORL D HAN DBOOK SERIES PART I SI! ES OF YARNS — NUM B ERING f e The sizes o yarns are designat d by the terms count, f s . o cut, run, hank , kein , dram, grain , etc , all which are i. e . based upon two elementary principles ; , weight and length . E ach term represents a certain length of yarn for a fixed weight , or vice versa ; but unfortunately there are different standards of weights and measures , which result in a great deal of confusion , although this h e is less in the cotton industry than in others . T largest variety o f terms is found in the woolen industry . In the we i . n United States have woolen cut, run, gra n, etc whe h e all may be reduc ed to a common basis . T r e is no doubt that the adoption of an international standard s would benefit the textile indu try , but which standard to adopt is a question on which manufacturers disagree . It is necessary to familiari z e oneself with the standard numbers of the various yarns ; also , as in the case of ff e woolen yarns , where di erent standard numbers are us d for the various terms , it is well to be familiar with the o f m e standard number each ter , as by this means a gr at f deal o c onfusion will be avoided . T able of Rel ative C ounts o f Y ar n Y a m Size S ta ndar d N a mber 1 Cotton N o . count 84 0 yards per pound Woolen No . 1 run 1 600 yards per pound Woolen No . 1 cut 300 yards per pound I 1 I 2 Woolen N o . skein 56 yards per pound 1 I 5 Worsted No . count 60 yards per pound Linen N 0 1 lea I 30 0 yards per pound I Spun Silk N O 1 count I 84 0 yards per pound n Such fibres as line , jute, hemp and ramie fibre are fi o f 300 t usually gured by the lea yards o the pound . In the grain system the weight in grains o f 2 0 yards . 2 0 designates the counts Thus , if yards weigh or 30 2 s N . 0 2 o . 5 r grains , the count would be , No o No . 30 i gra n yarn, respectively . 6 TEXTILE WORLD Y ARN TAB LE Y ar ds Per Po und f or Difi er ent N umber s of C otton Y ar n Yards per Cotton Pound Counts 84 0 38 89 4 0 4 1 4 2 4 8 4 4 4 5 4 6 4 7 4 8 4 9 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 58 59 60 61 62 68 64 65 66 68 69 7 0 71 7 2 78 74 COTTON MILL HANDBOOK 7 The Avoirdupo is table should be committed to memory, as it is used very extensively in textile calculations . Avoirdupois Weight l l o z . grains gr . ) ounce ( ( ) I drams (dr . ) I ounce I grains I pound (U1 ) ounc es I pound I pounds I hundredweight I hundredweight ton (t . C otton C ount s 84 0 Cotto n is based upon the hank of yards , and the number of such hanks which weigh o ne pound denotes the counts . 1 84 0 1 N o . cotton yards in pound N 2 1 o . cotton yards in pound 3 1 N o . cotton yards in pound If it should be found that yards of a cotton yarn weighed 1 pound there would be 84 0 8 nk ha s , and the counts o f the yarn would be 3 s . Therefore the following rule may be used : TO FIND TH E C OU NT S OF A C OTTON Y ARN WHEN TH E LENGTH AND WEIGHT ARE K NOWN : Rule . 84 0 Divide the length by the standard , , which nks nk gives the ha ; divide ha s by weight in pounds , which gives counts . E xamp les o f 1 1b . fi nd If yards cotton yarn weigh , the counts . 84 0 20 1 . 2 hanks lb 0s counts . o f 5 If yards cotton yarn weigh pounds, what are the counts ? — 84 0 4 0 5 lb 4: 8 e hanks s . s counts . 8 TEXTILE WORLD If 80 bundles of yarn each contain yards and 2 0 n s . weigh pou ds in all, find the cotton count X 80 yards 84 0 2 00 hanks 2 00 2 0 1 0s counts I 4 2 0 a f a warper beam contains ~ ends , y rds 600 a r e n long , and weighs pounds net, what the cotto counts ? X 42 0 yards 84 0 hanks 600 ‘ 1 5s counts CLOTH CALCULATIONS The following calculatio ns o n cloth are from a series compiled by Thomas Yates o f the N ew Bedford Textile N ew s his School, Bedf ord , Mas and are taken from book “ , c ” T Yarn and Cloth Cal ulations . hey will prove very helpful to practical mill men . I n e t dealing with cloth calculations , it may be b s to explain the necessity f or the r ules that are given later . As is is a well known, cloth m de by interlacing warp and th a filling threads . When e threads cross e ch other they ar e or s li bent more les out of a straight ne, a fact that causes the cloth to contract both in width and length . f r n diff Thus the rate per cent . o contraction will va y o er F r e s s. o ent cloth con truction this reason, re ds of a lower u f count than the required co nt o the cloth must be used , making the cloth wider at the reed than on the roller . The on length of a cut must be made longer _ the slasher than o f n . the required length _ the cut whe woven The threads o f single warp must be sized before they so can be woven, and this adds to the weight, that size and contraction are factors to be considered in all cloth calculations . The principal particulars of a plain cloth are the of f in ne number threads o warp and filling o inch, the o f hi width the cloth when woven and the weight, w ch is designated as so many yards per pound . The number COTTON MILL HANDBOOK of warp threads per inch is known as the sley, and the filling threads as the picks , and when speaking of a cloth construction, the sley is invariably put first . A cloth that contains 56 warp threads and 60 filling threads per inch would be classed as a 56 x 60 cloth . Warp threads are commonly known as ends , and this term will be used in all the calculations . TO FIND THE NU MB ER OF END S RE ! U IRED IN A WARP WHEN THE SLE Y AND WID TH ARE GIV EN : Ru le . Multiply the sley by the width and add extra ends for the selvages . Selvages are made by drawing some of the ends on the sides double, the number so doubled depending on the width o f selvage desired . Extra ends must be added to e . On ke p the cloth at the required width heavy cloths , ply yarn is sometimes used for the selvage ends . E xamp les ‘ 56 How many ends are required to weave a cloth sley, 36 24 ? inches wide, with ends extra for selvages 8 4 56 X 6 2 ends . H ow many ends will be required to weave a cloth 7 6 s 30 l 3 6 ley, inches wide al owing ends for selvages ? 7 6 30 36 X ends . s In the proce s of weaving, the warp and filling threads o r o ut are bent more less of a straight line, causing the c loth to contract in both length and width . When the sley and picks are equal and the warp and filling of the same counts, the contraction will be nearly equal in length and width .