Keys Sea Heritage Journal

VOL. 24 NO. 1 FALL 2013 USS SHARK

OFFICIAL QUARTERLY PUBLICATION OF THE MARITIME HISTORICAL SOCIETY Key West On the Edge

By Robert Kerstein Over its history Key West has been many different things to many different people. Situated on a small island, only two miles wide and four miles long, and bounded by the and the Atlantic Ocean, it was once the largest city in Florida; at another time one of the wealthiest cities, per capita, in the ; and at yet another time, one of the poorest. Blessed with its beautiful setting and tropical climate, Key West has, like many attractive tourist destinations, undergone a mighty struggle over its identify. Buffeted over the years by economic forces and national cultural changes, not to mention the occasional hurricane, Key West has long been one of America’s most unique and intriguing places. In 1983, it elected Richard Heyman, the first openly gay mayor in the United States. And in 1989, citizens chose Captain Tony Tarrachino as mayor, who, as described by the Washington Post, “had been a … gambler, gunrunner, saloonkeeper, fishing boat captain, ladies’ man and peerless raconteur.” Historian Charlton Tebeau concluded that during the decades (Continued on page 3) The cover of Key West On the Edge. SocietyNews by Tom Hambright Key Wester Strikes Gold The Fall and Winter 2012 few days since on their way to New issues of the Sea York, with an amount of gold which Heritage Journal published Mary we believe, to be unequalled in the Haffenreffer’s transcription and records of individual successes in description of the correspondence mining. They had with them dust between Thomas Ferguson and his to the value of 160,000 dollars, wife Rosalinda, written when he all obtained during the summer sought and struck gold in California, from two claims on the Yuba river. while she and their children These lucky individuals are Messrs. The Florida Keys Sea Heritage suffered poverty in Key West. Colin Thomas J. and Daniel H. Ferguson, Journal is published quarterly. Ferguson, a descendant, sent the formerly of Danbury, Conn. They Subscription is available through Society the following article from carried their treasure to Benicia membership. Copyright 2014 by the Daily Alta California newspaper upon the mules which brought the Key West Maritime Historical of November 18, 1850. it from the mountains, and it is Society of the Florida Keys, Inc. probably the heaviest importation The art on the masthead, the USS LARGEST YET that will be made for some time into Shark, was drawn by Bill Muir. Two gentlemen of our that grand port of entry. [Daily Alta acquaintance passed this city a California, Nov 18, 1850] Editor: Tom Hambright

ForgottenSoldiers Letters and articles are welcome. The Summer 2013 Florida Keys Plummer, a White physician. The Please write to: Editor, Florida Keys Sea Heritage Journal published an officials of the organization were Sea Heritage Journal, KWMHS, article about the Forgotten Soldiers often Black. The Key West chapter P.O. Box 695, Key West, FL of the 2nd Regiment South Carolina GAR appears for the last time in the 33041 or visit our web site Volunteer Regiment. The article 1911 City Directory. Keywestmaritime.org. begged the question: how many of these men returned to live in Key The following is the list of Key West Maritime West? After a search of census possible Black Civil War veterans Historical Society records, city directories, Civil and the record(s) consulted: Board of Directors War service records, and Federal Stephney Austin (1880 U.S. pension files, I have compiled the Census) President: Corey Malcom following list of probable Black John Bolton (Florida State Vice President: Bill Verge Civil War veterans in Key West. Census 1885) Secretary: Andrea Comstock One record that has not been Allen Dean (1870 U.S. Census, Treasurer: Tom Hambright found is a membership list of the Pension Files 1861-1934) Major B.C. Lincoln Post No. 3 of Manuel Dean (1870 U.S. Census, the Grand Army of the Republic Florida State Census 1885, Pension George Craig (GAR) The GAR was the national Files 1861-1934) J. Gregory Griffin veteran organization of the Civil James Frazier (U.S. Census Bill Grosscup War, which was very active in 1880) Mary Haffenreffer community and political life. The Samuel Gabriel (Florida State John Jones Key West unit is often listed as a Census, U.S. Civil War Service Sheri Lohr Black unit, but the Commander Records of Union Colored Julie McEnroe for many years was Dr. J.W.V.R. (Continued on page 13) Windy Tucker John Viele New Members Robert J. Wolz

Jan and Donald Allman, Fort Myers, FL.

2 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - FALL 2013 (Key West from page 1) before the Civil War, when the wrecking industry thrived, Key West could be best “understood as a cosmopolitan, even international island of economic, social and cultural activity, unlike any other in Florida and having little contact with it.” By the 1880s, the cigar industry had taken the place of wrecking as the island’s primary industry, drawing thousands of Cuban immigrants to the island. Still, many observers found the island attractive and different. In 1884, the author of a guide to fishing and camping in Florida called it a “quaint and charming city, full of oddities and incongruities.” Four years later, Jacksonville’s Florida Times- Military men in a Bar. Photo credit: Monroe County Library. Union, wrote that “Nowhere within the boundaries of the United States Administration (FERA) in Florida wrote in a letter to a friend, “It’s the can be found a place resembling initiated a successful effort to attract best place I’ve ever been anytime, (Key West), with its row of frame- tourists to the island in 1934, some anywhere, flowers, tamarind trees, built buildings, its hundreds of Conchs, as well as some visitors, guava trees, coconut palms…Got cigar factories, its cosmopolitan including world-renowned poets tight last night on absinthe and did population, and its thousand and one Wallace Stevens and Robert Frost, knife tricks.” other peculiarities which claim the criticized changes in the town. Even after the growth of attention of the stranger.” A woman Stevens, for example, claimed in in the mid-1930s, others continued visiting Key West in 1886 also 1935 that “Key West is no longer to praise Key West. After Martha emphasized it uniqueness, calling quite the delightful affection it once Gellhorn, who was to become it “an odd and novel place, and the was.” Hemingway’s third wife, arrived more interesting on that account. Still, neither the railroad, nor on a visit to Key West in 1937, There are peculiarities here that the , which she wrote to Eleanor Roosevelt, strike a stranger very forcibly. Key linked Key West to the mainland “I’m in Key West: to date it’s the West is intensely unlike any other in 1928, albeit with a 40-mile best thing I’ve found in America.” place in the Union.” gap that necessitated the use of And after Tennessee Williams first Even before Key West attracted car ferries, detracted from many experienced Key West in 1941, he many tourists, however, the fear visitors’ fascination with the noted, “This is the most fantastic that the island would lose its island city. Writer and inventor place that I have been yet in unique flavor was voiced. After George Allan England wrote that America.” Henry Flagler’s Florida East Coast Key West is “different from all Key West changed during the Railway reached the island in 1912, other cities, filled with beauty and war years and post-war decades the concern was raised that “The with curious, unique pictures… in ways that many felt enhanced whistle of the locomotive will be somewhat a state of mind, unique the allure of the island. In his heard in the land and another queer and unapproachable…save by memoir “A Pirate Looks at 50,” corner of the earth will be put on those who love and understand the Jimmy Buffett recollected the Key the civilized map.” After Julius tropics.” Ernest Hemingway arrived West he first observed in the early Stone, the federal administrator in Key West in 1928 after spending of the Federal Emergency Relief much of the decade in Paris. He (Contined on page 4)

FALL 2013 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 3 The Flag of the Conch Republic. Photo credit: Monroe County Library. (Key Weest from page 3) stationed at Boca Chica Air Base, United States, but not before the Truman Annex, or . Conch Republic’s Minister of 1970s: “Living in Key West in the By the end of the 1970s, the Defense hit a U.S. Navy officer with early seventies was not like living military’s presence on the island a loaf of Cuban bread, his version of in America. It was a hybrid culture was less significant due to the having “fired a volley.” where you were linked to the future closing of Truman Annex in 1974. Key West initiated the mock by FedEx service…while Cuban Although shrimp boats still were secession to protest a U.S. Border coffee and guayabera kept alive present in large numbers on the Key Patrol roadblock near Florida City the flavor of the ethnic past…There West Bight, their numbers were on U.S. Route 1 that had been that were the drug smugglers… In the diminished during the 1980s. It was ostensibly had been established to early days they used to unload at clear to many that tourism would search for illegal aliens, but that also the dockside in broad daylight, need to be the key driver of Key searched for drugs in cars driving and nobody much cared… The gay West’s economy. The organization north on the only road connecting community discovered Key West… of the first Fantasy Fest in October Key West with the mainland. The The Puritans had never made it this 1979 by several gay businesspeople motivation for the “secession” was far south, thank God… Then there and others was a harbinger of things that the roadblock was hurting the were shrimpers. Talk about a group to come. island’s tourism business. Tourists of individuals with a reputation The desire to enhance tourism were unlikely to drive to Key West for bad behavior. They made rock also motivated Key West’s infamous knowing they would face long bands look like church choirs. secession from the Union. On April delays driving home. The fact that They, too, gathered at the end of 23, 1982, Mayor Dennis Wardlow Key Westers chose this strategy the road because their bad behavior proclaimed Key West “The Conch to express disdain for the federal was tolerated.” Adding to this mix Republic.” He surrendered a action indicated that Key West was and diversity were the thousands few minutes later and asked for not a typical town. Still, although of military personnel who were $1 billion in foreign aid from the the island’s protest strategy was

4 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - FALL 2013 unique, the rationale for the protest was one increasingly pursued by many communities - to increase tourism. During the remainder of the 1980s tourism increased and it continued to do so during the following decade and the early years of the new century. The Tourism Development Council, funded by the “bed” tax on overnight visitors, advertised widely for tourists to “Come as You Are” to an island that was “Close to Perfect – Far From Normal.” As they had always been, tourists continued to be drawn by the weather and water to what some perceived as an American island in the Caribbean. Many were attracted by the buskers, chickens, and the Sunset Celebration. Fantasy Fest and newer festivals, including Hemingway The shrimp fleet in Key West Bight. Photo credit: Monroe County Library. Days and the Key West Songwriters’ Festival, attracted tourists. The bars gave way to boutiques and world’s fourth busiest cruise ship island’s heritage also offered reasons mainstream restaurants. Duval port in 2003. for tourists to visit, such as the Harry Street changed to accommodate Key West’s increase in tourism, S. Truman “Little White House,” the tourists’ desires, gaining and especially in cruise ship traffic, & Keepers restaurants, chain stores, T- made it an object of criticism in Quarters Museum, the Hemingway shirt shops, and art galleries, in a widely publicized analysis of House, and the Key West Museum place of the neighborhood-based tourist destinations. In March of Art and History in the Custom businesses that had long served 2004, National Geographic Traveler House. Writers and those interested residents. magazine characterized Key West as in literature were attracted by the Cruise ships represented a tourist destination gone bad. The Key West Literary Festival and the another significant trend in Key magazine’s “destination scorecard” writers’ workshops associated with West’s transition to mass tourism. ranked 115 tourist destinations from Hemingway Days. The island’s In 1986, 46,000 passengers around the world as “Good,” “Not gay and lesbian residents sponsored disembarked in Key West, so Bad,” or “Getting Ugly.” Key Women’s Week, PrideFest and other wandered around for about five West ranked third from the bottom activities that added to the town’s or six hours, then returned to their in the “Getting Ugly” group. Key tourism draw. ships. By 2000, the number had West received a rating of “bad” Several sections of Key West increased to almost 665,000 and for both its tourism management transformed to accommodate a new in 2002 and 2003 more than one and its likely future outlook, and a economy based upon tourism and an million cruise ship passengers “warning” for its aesthetics. increasing number of second homes arrived at either Mallory Docks, Several of Key West’s literary for wealthy out of town investors. Pier B, which the Hilton Hotel figures wrote critically of changes The Key West Bight, once home to (now the Westin) owned, or at the in the community. Joy Williams, shrimp boats and other commercial Outer Mole, which the Navy still in the 2003 edition of her popular fishing vessels, became the “Historic owned but leased to Key West Travel Guide to Key West and Seaport,” the new name sanctioned to service cruise ships. Indeed, the Florida Keys, concluded by the city, featuring charter fishing Key West’s volume of cruise ship that the island had achieved “the and sightseeing boats that catered to traffic increased to rank among critical mass of a totally tourist- tourists. On Caroline Street, across the highest in the world, with one (Continued on page 6) from the bight, rough-and-tumble estimate placing Key West as the

FALL 2013 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 5 Cuban refugees landing at Truman Annex during the Mariel Boatlift in 1980. Photo credit: Monroe County Library. (Key West from page 5) However, as had been the case Key West. In December 2003, since the 1930s, and even earlier, Out and About named Key West as based economy.” A “business- people’s responses to Key West were the most desirable winter vacation development oligarchy prevailed” mixed. The same week the critique destination for gays and lesbians. on the island, she continued, in the Traveler appeared, The New Whichever of these perspectives regardless of the “promoted carefree York Times travel section praised is more persuasive, it is clear is that image.” Rosalind Brackenberry, Key West. The writer heralded the island was moving upscale. another Key West author, observed the range of activities available This was manifested in the both that in earlier decades the island to visitors: “A Key West vacation the cost of housing and in the had displayed the “charm of the means different things to different price and character of new tourist unexpected, the irregular, the people. For some, it’s one long bar accommodations. Since the 1990s, slightly decrepit, the sun-won crawl. For other, Key West is all real estate investment has rivaled … chickens, eccentric people.” about the water: fishing, snorkeling, tourism promotion and local color Now, Key West’s atmosphere had sailing, jet skiing, parasailing… as a shaping force of the community. changed for a variety of reasons, Then there’s cultural Key West, The island increasingly attracted including rapid development and with an extraordinary collection of wealthy purchasers of home and mass tourism. Greed had led to Victorian houses and a rich literary condominiums. It had become more tourism, development, and history.” In March 2004, the Island fashionable and comfortable, rather overcrowding, “giving in to the magazine website also praised Key than bohemian, to move to Key lowest common denominator, West, including it among its “Top West, if only for a few months of the ignoring any sense of scale, from 10 island picks” in the world, along year. Gentrification had begun in cruise ships to the monstrous with such destinations as Tahiti and Old Town during the late 1970s, but concrete development out on South Martha’s Vineyard. Publications housing prices soon skyrocketed in Roosevelt.” targeting gay tourists also praised virtually every neighborhood.

6 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - FALL 2013 The U.S. Census recorded that in both 1960 and 1970 the median value of homes in Key West was lower than the median for the State of Florida. From 2005 to 2009, however, the median home value in Key West ($640,000) rose to three times that of the entire state ($211,300). Prices dropped during The Great Recession, but they remained relatively high. Key West’s culture and amenities encouraged many to purchase seasonal homes in Key West, fueling a rise in home prices. Many, however, including creative younger people attracted to the town’s history and ambience, were unable to become residents because Mayor Richard Heyman with commissioners Virginia Panico and Harry Powell. of Key West’s high costs and limited Photo credit Monroe County Library. opportunity for economic mobility. Others left the island, unable to and was sold to Southernmost lies within a different context than afford the high costs of housing. Hotels & Resorts, which razed the before the transition to a tourism The poet Richard Wilbur, then a hotel and constructed new upscale and vacation-home community. Key West resident, remarked in an rooms on its site. A drag queen who The island has managed to maintain interview after winning his second had performed at Atlantic Shores a sense of place. This place, Pulitzer Prize for poetry in 1989, “I concluded, “It’s the end of an era.” however, is open to a far smaller hope it (Key West) always remains Key West’s attributes still cross-section of the population a place where you can live without offers much that is attractive to than it was in earlier decades. The being rich.” Increasingly, however, those who value a different and tensions between mass tourism, Wilbur’s hope for Key West was unique experience. Many of the outside money, and a local culture dashed. city’s locally owned guesthouses that evolves with the influx of Tourist accommodations also distinguish themselves by catering newcomers, continues. The island increased in price. Although these to specific groups and interests; provides a welcome environment increases did not deter tourists some specialize in gay tourism, for many residents and visitors. from visiting the island, new luxury while others highlight literary Others, however, including past and accommodations challenged the and historic themes. The many present residents, both Conchs and character of the island in the same independent restaurants and transplants, as well as visitors to the manner as did increasing housing entertainment establishments, as island in earlier decades, bemoan values. For example, Atlantic well as other aspects of the island the Key West that is gone. Shores, a hotel on South Street, by city, including its architecture, the Atlantic Ocean, opened as an vegetation, pedestrian friendliness, Robert Kerstein is Professor of inexpensive hotel in the 1950s. It and balmy winter weather, ensure Government at the University of was renovated in the mid-1990s, but that tourists experience something Tampa. He wrote this synopsis of still offered relatively inexpensive out of the ordinary. Few towns his book “Key West on the Edge” rooms and catered primarily to boast of thousands of chickens for the Florida Keys Sea Heritage gay and lesbian visitors and locals. roaming around to the amusement, Journal. The book published by It included a clothing-optional or frustration, of tourists and the Universities of Florida Presses pool whose sign read, “We don’t residents. won the Florida Historical Society’s discriminate against heterosexuals.” Although Key West is in some Tebeau Award for the best Florida Atlantic Shores closed in May 2007 ways still unique, its uniqueness history book of 2012.

FALL 2013 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 7 18th century Map of the Florida Keys by Corey Malcom shoal waters near the islands and the and a wide variety of other approximate seaward edge of the commercial cargoes from Asia and © 2014 Mel Fisher Maritime reef line. The map is oriented with the Americas, all intended for the Heritage Society north toward the top of the image, markets and coffers of Spain. After In the Archivo General de as defined by a north-arrow at the taking on final cargoes, provisions, Las Indias -- a vast repository upper, left-hand margin. A scale and passengers, the convoy of 21 of documents housed in Seville, along the same margin provides ships left on July 13th. The Spain, that documents the story latitude readings in degrees that ships sailed northward until they of that nation’s 400-year colonial are further sub-divided into twenty sighted Key West, then adjusted system in the Americas -- there sections: the 25th and 26th parallels their course to carry them eastward is an interesting and significant are labelled with general accuracy. through the Florida Straits. The map of the Florida Keys. The These lines intersect with other following evening, they began to anonymously-created map reveals rhumbs to form a complex, web- experience contrary north winds; important information regarding the like grid across the entire chart. If experience told Torres and his ill-fated 1733 Nueva España Flota the primary purpose of the chart captains that a hurricane was (New Spain, or Mexico, fleet). The was to give the reader a precise idea imminent. By the morning of July fleet had been dashed along the of where each of the ships of the 15th, the winds increased and island chain by a hurricane in July 1733 fleet was lost within islands clocked around to the south, and the of 1733, and the map looks to have and reefs of the Florida Keys, fleet was soon driven onto the reefs been created specifically to illustrate the information provided by the and shoals of the Florida Keys. By the locations of the wrecks. Though north arrow, rhumb-line grid, and the time the storm abated, twenty the map is undated, its subject- latitude scale would allow a user vessels were wrecked, scattered matter suggests that it was most to identify the approximate bearing from present-day Marathon to Key likely created shortly after the and distance between the features Biscayne. disaster. Significantly, the map also depicted on the map. News of the tragedy quickly gives an excellent understanding of The 1733 Fleet reached Havana, and salvage crews how the islands were known during Spain’s colonial maritime empire were dispatched to offer relief to the time. is well-remembered today for its the victims of the disaster, and, The chart is titled “Parages treasure-laden ships sailing through just as importantly, to recover the Donde vajaron los Navios de La the Caribbean. For centuries, vast wealth aboard the stricken Flota Del Ano De 1733,” which these vessels were organized into ships. Along the shoals fronting the translates to “Places Where the convoys that carried the output of Florida Keys, they found almost all Ships of the Fleet of the Year of American mines and plantations of the fleet’s ships hard aground 1733 Grounded.” This heading across the Atlantic Ocean to Spain. and dismasted. Camps were is followed by a list of numbered For a period of over 250 years, at quickly established on some of the ship names, with each number least two large fleets sailed annually nearby Keys, and they served as corresponding to a ’s – one for South America (the Tierra both refuges for the survivors and location along the reefs and keys. Firme galleons), and one for Mexico command centers for the extensive The map has a familiar feel to (the Nueva España Flota). After salvage operations that followed. the modern eye, and the Florida doing their business in the colonies, Most of the fleet’s ships were Keys are depicted much as they these ships would meet with other badly damaged, and only two of are understood today. Alongside vessels in Havana and then sail to them could be refloated and put many of the keys, are the names Spain as a group. back into service. Fortunately, most that were used for them at the On May 25, 1733 the Nueva were in shallow enough water that time. Drawn along with the islands España Flota, under the command it was relatively easy for salvage are representations of many of of Don Rodrigo de Torres, left teams from Havana to recover their the shallower reefs that fringe the Vera Cruz, Mexico for a one-month cargoes. A variety of techniques island chain’s Atlantic side, and voyage to Havana.2 The ships were were employed to rescue whatever dashed contour lines depict the loaded with silver, spices, porcelain could be recovered from the

8 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - FALL 2013 Parages Donde vajaron los Navios de La Flota Del Ano De 1733 Photo credit: Archivo General de Indias, MP-SANTO_ DOMINGO, 862. wrecks, including burning many twelve are found in the Florida its longer, formal name. The ships of them down to the waterline to Keys National Marine Sanctuary. A are listed on the chart as follows, more easily remove the treasure program called the “1733 Spanish along with a summary of what and other cargoes in their holds Galleon Trail” has been developed is known about each ship’s, size, by the State of Florida and the number of crew, and number of and the iron fittings from their 5 hulls. Ultimately, more treasure was Florida Keys National Marine guns: recovered from the wrecks than had Sanctuary to encourage interested been registered.3 divers to visit these The Locations of the 1733 Beginning in the 1930’s, many and learn first-hand about Spain’s Shipwrecks of the shipwreck sites were re- important colonial-maritime system 1: Pinque Populonio –Nuestra discovered by US treasure hunting and the tragedy suffered by these Señora del Populo; a crown-owned operations, and various such particular ships nearly 300 years vessel; don Juan de Egúes, master; 4 6 groups worked for many decades ago. Keel of 58 codos ; 150 men; 20 to recover much of what had been Through a keyed numbering guns. A Pinque [Pink] is a smaller, lost or left behind on the sea floor system, the map shows precise narrow-sterned vessel, with a by the Spaniards. Three of the locations of each of the grounded relatively flat bottom. shipwreck sites have never been ships. The names of the vessels are 2: El Aviso –The advice ship, located. Today, thirteen of the 1733 listed and numbered to correspond don Jose de Aramvide, master; Keel shipwreck sites are recognized as with the charted locations. of 35 codos; 20 men and 8 guns. public historical sites, one is in Oftentimes a familiar nickname for 3: El Ynfante –El Infante / ; the other a ship is used on the map, instead of (Continued on page 10)

FALL 2013 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 9 (Map from page 9) crown-owned; don Francisco Tomas seen from a distance, the rocks as Nuestra Señora de Balvaneda , don Aguirre, master; Keel of 60 codos; they rose to view appeared like Pablo Aguirre, master; Keel of 62 450 men & 56 guns. men who were suffering” 7. This codos; 450 men & 60 guns. 16: Angustias –Nuestra Señora map is different, though, in that 4: San Joseph –San José y Las de las Angustias y San Raphael/ El it is Keys-specific: only the chain Animas; don Xeval Fr. Francisco; Charanguero Grande (The Large of islands is shown, disembodied Keel of 60 codos; 130 men & 30 Coastal Trader); English-built; 328 from the mainland. Along with the guns. 1⁄2 tons; don Francisco Sánchez de detailed drawings of the islands, 5: Capitana –El Rubí, crown- Madrid, master; Keel of 60 codos; the map also indicates the names owned; don Juan de Arnaud, 130 men & 30 guns. that the Spanish used for them master; Keel of 64 codos; 500 men 17: Arizon –Nuestra Señora del some 300 years ago. Although & 64 guns. Rosario y San Vicente Ferrer; don some of the names of these islands 6: Chaves –Nuestra Señora del Juan de Arizon; Keel of 57 codos; have changed over time, most have Carmen, San Antonio y Las Animas; 125 men & 25 guns. This ship is not. The depicted place-names are don Antonio de Chaves, master; also listed as El Sueco de Arizon listed below, written exactly as Genoese-built; 220 3/8 tons; Keel (The Swede of Arizon), perhaps an they appear on the drawing, along of 45 codos; 50 men & 18 guns. indication that it was Swedish-built. with an English translation and the 7: La Valandra – A balandra is 18: San Fernando –don Juan de names of the islands used today: a small, single-masted sailing ship. Reina, master; Keel of 61 codos; 130 A - Cayo de Hueso –”Key of No specifics are given for the vessel men & 34 guns. Bone”; today’s Key West. and nothing is known of its fate. 19: San Ygnacio –San Ignacio; B – Voca Chica – “Small 8: Herrera –Nuestra Señora de don Cristóbal Urquijo, master; Keel Mouth”; today’s Boca Chica. Belén y San Antonio; don Luis de of 60 codos; 130 men & 30 guns. C – Piñero – “Piner”; it is Herrera, master; 242 1⁄2 tons; Keel 20: Fragta de la florida drawn at the locations of today’s of 53 codos; 70 men & 20 guns. Sumergida: Frigate of Florida (St. Sugarloaf & Cudjoe Keys, which 9: Tres Puentes –Nuestra Señora Augustine) was sunk without a trace may have been considered part of de los Dolores y Santa Isabel; don in deeper water. No specifics are the Big Pine Key group. Antonio Loaiza, master; 296 tons; given for the vessel. D – Punta de Cagoamas Keel of 60 codos; 130 men & 30 One other ship was also part of – “Point of Sea Turtles,” or “Point guns. the 1733 fleet, but it is not listed - the of Canoes”;8 a point on the north 10: Murgia –Nuestra Señora royal galleon San Jose, also known as side of Big Pine Key. del Rosario; don Juan de Espeleta, El Africa, don Pablo Huony, master. E – Vahiahonda – “Deep Bay”; master; Keel of 60 codos; 130 men It too suffered the violence of the today’s . & 30 guns. Re-floated and saved. storm and came to a halt somewhere F – Cayos chicos de vaihiahonda 11: San Pedro – don Gaspar in the northernmost reaches of the – “Little Keys of Deep Bay”; López, master; Dutch-built; 287 Keys. Once its sails were re-rigged, today’s Ohio, Missouri, Little tons; Keel of 56 codos; 125 men; the Africa took the survivors of the Duck and Money Keys. 24 guns. Populo and the Aviso ship onboard, G – Cayo de vacas – “Key of 12: Teyrri –San Felipe; don José and it safely continued its voyage to Cows” today’s , site of del Villar, master; 486 tons; Keel of Spain. The San Jose/El Africa was the city of Marathon. 64 codos; 130 men & 34 guns. the largest ship in the fleet with a H – Hijuelos de Caio de vacas 13: El Poder de Dios –El Gran Keel of 66 codos, carrying 66 guns – “Little children of the Key of Poder de Dios; don Jose Sánchez de and 500 men. Cows”; today’s Key Colony, Madrid, master; {Keel?] 75 men & Crawl, Fat Deer, and Deer Keys. 20 guns. Re-floated and saved. The Names of the Florida Keys I – Caio de Viboras – “Key of 14: San Francisco – don Vicente Early maps and charts of Florida Vipers;” today’s . de Iturribarria, master; 264 2/3 tons; often depict the Florida Keys, J – Matacumbe el Mozo – Keel of 57 codos; 120 men & 26 but they regularly labeled them “Matecumbe the Younger”; today’s guns. generically as “Los Martires,” or the . 15: Almiranta –Nuestra Señora martyrs, a name given to them by K – Cayuelo de Matanza – “Islet de Balvaneda/El Gallo Indiano; Ponce de Leon in 1513, “because, of Slaughter”; today’s Indian Key

10 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - FALL 2013 The Locations of the 1733 Shipwrecks. Photo credit: the Author. L – Matacumbe el grande – most prominent reefs that fringe where each of the fleet’s ships was “Matecumbe the Greater”; today’s the islands on the southern side. By wrecked, illustrating the magnitude . comparing the reefs drawn on the and situation of the loss, perhaps M – Las vocas de Spanish map to modern charts, we to guide salvage efforts to the – “The Warrior’s Mouths”; can deduce that they are Sand Key, wreck sites. But this centuries-old the channels between Upper Eastern and Western Dry Rocks, map not only outlines the tragic Matecumbe, Wilson, Windley, and the Sambos, American Shoal, Looe disaster suffered by the treasure Plantation Keys. Key, Sombrero Key, Alligator Reef, fleet, it also gives us a look into N – Cayo de la parida – “Key of and the long complex of reefs how these islands were known the new mother.” Bernard Romans running from Molasses Reef to and understood in the early part noted that the Spanish called the Carysfort Reef to Turtle Rocks. of the 18th century. Though they Soldier Keys in were never permanently settled by “La Parida y su Iguela,” (The new Conclusion the Spanish, and at the time were mother and her little daughter).9 Over 200 years after the Florida occupied by a population of Native The key shown on this map appears Keys were first encountered by Americans, the Florida Keys look to be a representation of today’s Spanish explorer Juan Ponce to have been thoroughly explored Rodriguez Key, probably reflecting de Leon in 1513, a chart was and were well-understood within confusion between the two places. made of the island chain by an the Spanish colonial system. The O – Cayo Largo – “Long Key”; unknown cartographer, apparently islands were certainly known from today’s . to document the tragic loss of the a distance to mariners, because Though they are not listed by of 1733. they served as a waypoint for name, the map also depicts the This map clearly lists the places (Continued on page 12)

FALL 2013 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 11 The Names of the Florida Keys. Photo credit: the Author.

(Map from page 11) to Señor don Joseph Patino, n.d.; the Havanna, Aug.19, N.S.” London ships exiting the Caribbean while Archivo General de Las Indias, Daily Post, October 26, p.1. catching a ride on the Gulfstream Archivo General de las Indias 6The codo real was 565mm, or current, and it was well-understood Indiferente 1987, translated by Jack 22 inches long, according to Carla that reefs and shoals fronted the Haskins. In Robert J. Benson, ed. Rahn Phillips (1986), Six Galleons Keys and were hazards to be (2002). The Capitana Project: Final for the King of Spain, Johns Hopkins avoided. But, as this map makes Excavation Report, at University Press, Baltimore. clear, early explorers had come http://www.maritimearchaeolog 7T. Frederick Davis (ed.), in close to shore and the islands y.org/Final_Report.pdf. “Ponce de Leon’s First Voyage and 3 themselves had been thoroughly Smith, Roger C. (1988). Discovery of Florida.” The Florida surveyed and documented, with “Treasure Ships of the Spanish Historical Society Quarterly 14:1 names for them either appropriated Main,” in Ships and Shipwrecks of (July, 1935). or created. Much of our modern- the Americas, George F. Bass, editor. 8De Lorenzo, Jose (1864), day conception of the Florida Keys Thames and Hudson, New York. Diccionario Marítimo Español, 4 is rooted in the Spanish colonial Florida Underwater Archaeology Madrid, p.113. “Caguama = period, and the geography of Team (2005). 1733 Spanish Galleon Bote muy pequeño semejante Florida’s southernmost island chain Trail: Explore the Spanish Plate al chinchorro (a very small boat has been well understood for a very Fleet Disaster of 1733. Florida similar to the hammock)”. long time. Division of Historical Resources 9Romans, B. (1776). A Concise Bureau of Archaeological Research, Natural History of East and West Footnotes Tallahassee. Also available at http: Florida, New York, p. 297. 1 Sobel, D. (1995). Longitude: //www.flheritage.com/archaeology/ The True Story of a Lone Genius underwater/galleontrail/ Corey Malcom is director of Who Solved the Greatest Scientific 5Much of the information about Archaeology for the Mel Fisher Problem of His Time, Walker & the ships comes from a lengthy Maritime Heritage Society and Company, New York. newspaper account - Anonymous President of the Key West Maritime 2 Don Francisco de Vara y Valdez (1733). “Extract of a Letter from Historical Society.

12 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - FALL 2013 (Soldiers from page 2) Troops) Booker Glover (Florida Marriages 1837-1974, Pension Files 1861-1934) Fulton McGuire (Florida State Census 1885, Pension Files 1861- 1934) David B. Mathews (1880 U.S. Census) John Mathews (1880 U.S. Census) Samuel Mathews (1880 U.S. Census) Dennis McGee (1910 U.S. Census, U. S. Civil War Service Records of Union Colored Troops, G.A.R. City Directory ) Benjamin Murray (1879 U.S. Census) Jonas Murray (1880 U.S. Census) James A. Robert (G.A.R. City Directory) Clinton Shavers (1880 U.S. Census, U.S. Civil War Service records of Union Colored Troops} Frank Shavers (1900 U.S. Census, U.S. Civil War Service records of Union Colored Troops, G.A.R City Directory) Henry Shavers (1910 U.S. Census, U.S. Civil War Service Records of Union Colored Troops, The tombstone of Stepney Morris in the Key West City Cemetery. Photo Credit: Pension Index 1861-1917) Corey Malcom. Peter Shavers (1880 U.S. Census, U.S. Civil War Service Records of The men with pension files, search goes on. Union Colored Troops) service records and G.A.R. office York Shavers (1880 U.S. Census, holders are almost certainly U.S. Civil War Service Records of veterans. The others, gathered Note Union Colored Troops) only from census records, are best The 2nd South Carolina was Joseph Stevens (1889 U.S. guesses, using age and place of involved in operations in defenses Census) birth. of Charleston until January 29, Augustus Swicover (1880 U.S. When searching history surprises 1864. It moved to Jacksonville on Census) are often found. During the research February 5–7. While in Florida, John Thomas (1880 U.S. on this article Corey Malcom found the regiment was disbanded and Census) the tombstone of William Morris, subsequently reorganized as the Henry Vickers (Florida State aged 17, died Corporal in the U.S. 34th Infantry Regiment, U.S. Census 1885) Army at Beaufort, SC in 1863. Colored Troops on February 8, Charles Williams (1880 U.S. Morris was not found in the records 1864. They were mustered out of Census) used the “Forgotten Soldiers.” The the army on February 28, 1866.

FALL 2013 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 13 Navy Boom-Town Days

by John Viele

In early 1948, I reported aboard the submarine USS Cubera (SS 347) at the Philadelphia Naval . She was just completing conversion from a WWII Fleet- type boat to a Guppy (Greater Underwater Propulsion Program). With doubled battery capacity and a streamlined superstructure, we could reach 18 knots submerged. We also had a snorkel which allowed us to run two main engines and recharge the batteries while submerged at periscope depth. Saying goodbye to the shipyard, we set course for our new homeport, Key West. My first glimpse of Key West was through the periscope. As we drew closer to the island and I saw Cast of the USS Funship with the author on the right. Photo credit: the Author. the crystal-clear, blue-green waters and the waving palm trees, I knew numerous other commands which If you didn’t go to the club on I had made the right choice when I can’t remember, all involved in Saturday night, you risked getting I selected a Key West-based sub anti-submarine development and a rude awakening when the revelers as my first choice upon graduation training, The total Navy population, returned in the wee hours to the from Submarine School. Most Navy including dependents, was about married junior officer quarters at couples loved it, but some couldn’t 17,000. We outnumbered the Rest Beach. Another thing you wait for orders transferring them civilians! In the evening, Duval might miss was the chance to elsewhere. In those days there were Street was a sea of white hats rub elbows with the president’s no shopping malls (still aren’t), flowing from one bar to the next, daughter, Margaret Truman, and no TV, and Sears Roebuck was a replaced today by red-faced tourists her Secret Service escorts when she catalog store. marching from one T-shirt shop to EDUCATION PROGRAM SPONSORS With water deep enough for another. $100 OR MORE It was almost a base regulation a sub to dive only seven miles LINDA & LAWRENCE ABELE that junior officers and their wives TOM & KITTY CLEMENTS from the island, the Navy had BETTY L. DESBIENS or dates attend the Fort Taylor BUD DRETTMANN selected Key West to be its major JOHN & BEATRICE DUKE Officers Club (on the southern SHIRLEY FREEMAN & HARVEY SERVER anti-submarine training base on CELESTE ERICKSON shore a few hundred yards west of DR. ELIAS GERTH the East Coast. There were two MARY HAFFENREFFER the Southernmost Point) for dining TOM & LYNDA HAMBRIGHT submarine squadrons, each with HARRIGAN FOUNDATIONS, INC. and dancing on Saturday nights. At JOHN H. JONES their own submarine tender; a LAURA LYNNE KENNEDY the large U-shaped bar you could EDWARD B. KNIGHT submarine rescue vessel; a surface TOM KNOWLES get a drink for 25 cents. The big TOM & BARBARA MARMION ship anti-submarine development DR. WILLIAM R. PLOSS detachment with destroyers and dance floor, under the stars, was LARRY & GRETCHEN RACHLIN JUAN L. RIERA destroyer escorts; anti-submarine surrounded by many dining tables, JUDITH & JAMES ROBERTS SOUTHERNMOST HOTEL IN THE USA aircraft (fixed-wing, helos, and sheltered under the roof. Facing ED SWIFT KIMBERLY & GARY WALWER blimps); the Fleet Sonar School; the the water was a long pier, a beach, ROBERT J. WOLZ Underwater Weapons School; and picnic tables, and a tennis court.

14 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - FALL 2013 came to dance to the Latin beat of operations, our sub would gradually the small orchestra. It was directed move south, until by Friday by the high school’s music teacher afternoon, we were practically at BUSINESS MEMBERS who wrote many popular local tunes the mouth of Havana Harbor. The ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY like “In Old Key West”, “Bahama girls would fly over on Aerovias GENEALOGY CENTER 900 LIBRARY PLAZA Mama,” “ and “Hot Bollos” (Cuban Q, the Cuban airline, for $12 and FORT WAYNE, IN 46802 260-421-1223 hush puppies). meet us at a hotel. The captain and COASTAL SAILING ADVENTURE, INC. 28555 JOLLY ROGER DRIVE Every so often, a local command the executive officer might stay at , FL 33042-0839 295-8844 would provide some entertainment the up-scale Hotel Nacional, but CONCH TOUR TRAINS, INC. 601 DUVAL ST. at the club. I was attached to the we junior officers found the price at KEY WEST, FL 33040 294-4142

Submarine Squadron Twelve staff, Los Ambos Mundos, where the staff DR. FRED COVAN 1901 FOGARTY AVE. SUITE 2 when the captain of our tender, the brought you a glass of hot milk in KEY WEST, FL 33040 305-294-7522

Bushnell, wrote a musical show, the morning, much more suited to DEWOLF AND WOOD ANTIQUARIANS ON THE GREEN “USS Funfish” telling how great our pocket books. P.O. BOX 425 it was to be a crew member on one Late mornings and afternoons ALFRED, MAINE 04002 207-490-5572 FRIENDS OF ISLAMORADA AREA STATE PARKS of Squadron Twelve’s submarines. were spent shopping with free P.O. BOX 236 Wives acted as steward mates daiquiris in hand or sampling the ISLAMORADA, FL 33036 dressed in white hats and white wares at the rum factories – free DR. ELIAS GERTH 2505 FLAGLER AVE. stewards’ jackets which stopped of course. Then it was siesta time. KEY WEST, FL 33040 305-295-6790 well above their knees. The show After a dinner of arroz con pollo HISTORIC FLORIDA KEYS FOUNDATION 510 GREENE STREET got rave reviews (chicken and yellow rice) at a local KEY WEST, FL 33040 President Truman didn’t want restaurant, it was off to Havana’s HISTORICAL PRESERVATION SOCIETY OF THE UPPER KEYS, INC. a lot of ceremony when he came famous nightclubs, the Copacabana P.O. BOX 2200 to relax at the Little White House, or the Sans Souci. The floor shows KEY LARGO, FL 33037 KEY WEST ENGINE SERVICE, INC. but some senior officers were with gorgeous girls in brief costumes P.O. BOX 2521 determined that he was going to were spectacular, and as long as you KEY WEST, FL 33045 KEY WEST TENNIS get it anyway. I remember standing were buying drinks, no charge. 1305 REYNOLDS STREET on deck in dress whites with the Finally, back downtown to dance KEY WEST , FL 33040 561-445-7805 KEY WEST WOOD WORKS crew manning the rail (rail? on a the rest of the night away at a native 6810 FRONT STREET submarine?) For two hours on the nightspot while downing too many KEY WEST, FL 33040 296-1811 MEL FISHER MARITIME HERITAGE SOCIETY chance that the President might Anjeo y Aguas (delicious aged rum 200 GREENE ST. look down and see us as he flew and water). KEY WEST, FL 33040 294-2633 OLD TOWN TROLLEY overhead to land at Boca Chica six Today, the subs are gone, 6631 MALONEY AVENUE miles away, Havana is out of bounds, and the KEY WEST, FL 33040 296-6688 The President used to walk along PREMIERE RACING, INC. Fort Taylor officers club is gone. 67B FRONT STREET the waterfront past the submarine Has the fellowship which once MARBLEHEAD, MA 01945 781-639-9545 piers on his way to take a morning prevailed among the families of FOUNDATION P.O. BOX 500130 swim at a little beach close by Ft. naval officers stationed at Key West MARATHON, FL 33050 Taylor. It certainly wasn’t his idea, also vanished? RIERA TOURS P.O. BOX 522026 but base orders were that everyone , FL 33152 305-446-2712 [email protected] was to be in the uniform of the day John Viele has been a member A.R. SAVAGE & SONS, INC. at that time. You can bet that on of the Board of Directors of the Key 701 HARBOUR POST DRIVE the boats (submarines), except for West Maritime Historical Society TAMPA, FL 33602 813-247-4550 SEASTORY PRESS the gangway watch, there was not of the Florida Keys for the past 20 305 WHITEHEAD STREET #1 KEY WEST, FL 33040 296-5762 a soul topside when he passed. He years. He is the author of three books [email protected] must have thought that submariners on the history of the Keys published SOUTHERNMOST HOTEL IN THE USA 1319 DUVAL STREET were like moles -- afraid of the light by Pineapple Press of Sarasota: KEY WEST, FL 33040 296-6577 of day. “The Florida Keys – A History of ST. LOUIS AUTOMATIC SPRINKLER CO. 3928 CLAYTON AVE. Another fun thing about duty the Pioneers,” “The Florida Keys, ST. LOUIS, MO 63110 314-533-7710 in Key West in those days was the Vol. 2 – True Stories of the Perilous chance to enjoy a cheap weekend Straits,” and “The Florida Keys, fling in Havana, During the week’s Vol. 3 – The Wreckers.”

FALL 2013 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 15 The Key West Naval Station C 1950. Photo credit: Monroe County Library.

Key West Maritime Historical Society NONPROFIT ORG. P.O. Box 695 U.S. POSTAGE Key West, FL 33041 PAID KEY WEST, FL PERMIT NO. 30

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