St.— Changing Croix Tides on the Caribbean Isle Text and photos by Jennifer Idol

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Diver at reef wall, St. Croix (above); Reef shark (top right); Converted sugar plantation home (right); Emerging leatherback sea turtle hatchling at Sandy Point (left)

islands. The islands are uniquely situated next to the Puerto Rican Trench, the deepest part of the Atlantic Ocean, with depths exceeding 8,400m (27,559ft). This unique geography influences the nest- ing behavior of leatherback sea turtles St. Croix is known for nesting on Puerto Rico and St. Croix. leatherback sea turtles but Visitors since the 1400s have left their hardwoods. Canopy loss from the removal impression on the islands, seen through of trees on St. Croix reduced rainfall and has recently become known historic buildings and the changed land- diminished water resources. The remain- as one of the islands through scape, especially on the island of St. ing tropical dry forest can be seen in the which Hurricane Maria passed. Croix. The Christiansted National Historic northwestern corner of the island and is However, life on this US Virgin Site reflects the activities of St. Croix’s known locally as the rainforest. colonial legacy as part of the Danish Islands are isolated and vulnerable Island reaches beyond the tales West Indies center for sugar production, ecological centers. St. Croix resembles a of these two stories. trade, and Transatlantic Slave Trade. desert but is home to significant life. From Visiting peoples changed life on St. four nesting species of endangered and St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix com- Croix, from clearcutting native tropical threatened sea turtles (hawksbill, leather- prise the US Virgin Islands on the north- dry forest to prevent malaria and develop back, green and loggerhead) to highly eastern side of the Caribbean Sea. sugarcane plantations to the introduc- endangered least terns, the island is an St. Croix is isolated from the other two tion of non-native species and export of overlooked gem. Tropical dry forest of St. Croix. PREVIOUS PAGE: Hawksbill sea turtle

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Snorkeling at Frederiksted Pier (above); Point Udall (left); Cane Bay reef scene (far left); Diver and dive boat of Cane Bay Dive Shop (top right); Detail of Frederiksted Pier—life grows abundantly, even in small places (right)

Hurricane Maria Following category 5 Hur- ricane Irma, another cat- egory 5 hurricane moved Quiet oasis through the Caribbean Nearly all tourists visit from the causing devastation in United States or Puerto Rico. Puerto Rico and Domi- St. John and St. Thomas re- nica last October. Most of ceive 90 percent of visitors to the US Vir- Frederiksted are restaurants for people St. Croix suffered little damage, though gin Islands, leaving St. Croix a quiet and looking for fresh food. Most tourists fre- the infrastructure struggled to provide uncrowded escape with opportunities quent the Christiansted Boardwalk area electricity for all buildings during the first to dive, snorkel or tour the island. Point for pubs and food, but options are also months following the hurricane. Udall is the easternmost point of the available in the Cane Bay area. Tornadoes caused more damage United States and a gathering place to Most goods are imported; this in- than the hurricane, creating isolated observe the sunrise. Almost three-fourths cludes water since the groundwater damage. Divi Carina Bay, an all-inclu- of tourists arrive by cruise boats, so the faces contamination, while well-drawn sive beach resort and casino, was one island is usually quiet. water exceeds recharge rates due to of the damaged businesses. They opted Since food is expensive, the Plaza the lack of rainfall. If you must have to rebuild a modern facility that will Extra West Superstore can be a valu- bottled water in your accommodations, open in 2019. The road at Sandy Point able resource. The café at Sand Castle buy by the gallon at the grocery store National Wildlife Refuge remains closed on the Beach hotel and Blue Moon in to save both plastic and money. due to damage from the storms. Other- Iguana in tropical dry forest on St. Croix

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AnAmericanImmersion.com Cane Bay Beach (above); "Seasonally Closed" sign at Sandy Point National­ Available on Amazon Wildlife Refuge (left); Leatherback sea turtle hatchlings emerge from their nest (right); Hatchling tracks in the sand at Sandy Point (top right)

Sandy Point turtles. Research re- National Wildlife Refuge vealed they rely on the The southwestern tip of St. Croix was beach at Sandy Point established as a national wildlife refuge as a primary nesting when the US Fish and Wildlife Service site. Foot traffic across purchased an initial 340 acres from the nests prevents success- Discover how an oil spill inspired a woman West Indies Investment Company in ful hatching. Hatchlings emerge from they lay their eggs. They lay from 60 to to undertake a quest to become the first 1984. The refuge’s administration head- their shells and wait a few centimeters 80, and sometimes as many as 100 to woman to dive all 50 states and explore vivid quarters are located in Puerto Rico. (half-inch) below the sand before 115 eggs. The bigger the female, the underwater landscapes in this revealing book. Forming the refuge caused concern emerging. Stepping on a nest can eas- more eggs they lay. The real wonder is about diminished accessibility to the ily kill 20 to 30 individuals. in the kinds of eggs they lay. beach. Activities are limited because Ten days before hatchlings break They produce both yolkless and the refuge closes to the public between through the eggshell, they need more yolked eggs. Thirty to forty percent of April and August every year to protect oxygen flow across the shell. Sand the eggs laid are yolkless and will not endangered leatherback sea turtles, the must not be packed down, or else hatch. They are smaller than normal- largest of the sea turtles. Educational nests suffocate due to the obstruction sized eggs and come out last to form programs help the public understand of the flow of oxygen to the eggs and a cap over the yolked eggs. This why the closure is a positive activity. hatchlings. Collapsed nests reduce gas maintains air space to optimize gas wise, the biggest threat from the hur- exchange, producing higher mortality exchange as embryos develop and ricane is economic impact of travelers Closing beaches saves lives and lower success rates. keeps sand from filling in. This is why avoiding St. Croix due to perceptions of For more than 38 years, a program has Leatherback sea turtles are extraor- keeping the beaches free of activity at PHOTOGRAPHY & DESIGN damage. been in place for the study of these sea dinarily adapted animals, even in how Sandy Point is important.

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A perfect view from both sides of the isle.

Join our school.

Leatherback sea turtle hatchlings emerge from the sand (right) at Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge (above)

Refuge management 47 acres, totaling 385 The refuge is one of nine national acres. Depending on wildlife refuges in the Caribbean. beach erosion, the Green Cay National Wildlife Ref- beach fluctuates by uge was established on the north- six to 10 acres. Scien- ern side of St. Croix to protect the tists monitor the an- last significant populations of the nual erosion cycle, critically endangered St. Croix which threatens nesting sites and Refuges, has managed and stud- ground lizard. an archeological site. ied life at the refuge. She manages Funding for Sandy Point Na- The Aklis archeological site at the nesting area and engages in tional Wildlife Refuge has been Sandy Point has uncovered pre- endangered species manage- limited since its creation. Two staff Columbian skeletal material from ment and population recovery. members oversee all duties of the 200 to 400 A.D. and some others The leatherback sea turtles she refuge, from facilities manage- that could be older. Monitoring oversees are not just a keystone ment and safety patrol to the these sites helps volunteers and species, but also begin life as ador- management of invasive species, interns move nests and artifacts to able palm-sized hatchlings. Four to Even if you hated biology class you’ll love learning to dive in habitat restoration and reforesta- safety. Nest relocation saves 20,000 six nests are usually built a day, but The Florida Keys. In just three days you can be certified by tion, and monitoring endangered to 30,000 hatchlings that would 2017 was an unusually quiet year the world’s best instructors. Before long, you’ll go down with and threatened species. Recent have been lost to erosion. for nesting activity. the ships and come face-to-face with thousands of different partnerships with the US National Last year, Sandy Point saw the species on America’s only living coral reef. Oceanic and Atmospheric Admin- Nesting sea turtles lowest number of nesting sea fla-keys.com/diving istration (NOAA) have enabled For more than 18 years, Claudia turtles in 25 years, with 26 individu- programs to continue. Lombard, wildlife biologist and fed- als. Normally, 95 individuals nest Since the refuge was estab- eral wildlife officer for Sandy Point at Sandy Point National Wildlife lished, they obtained an additional and Green Cay National Wildlife Refuge during nesting season.

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DEFINE YOUR TRAINING

THIS PAGE: Leatherback hatchlings at Sandy Point. The beach here is ideal for leatherback sea turtles due to the sand consistancy and the nearby trench, which provides protection for female leatherbacks.

One-fourth of the population ar- right themselves. rived. Studying sea turtles is a long Their flippers are and slow process due to their slow as long as their NAUI training is rooted in the premise of maturation and nesting behavior. bodies, so their The beach at the refuge is ideal movement is a the loved one concept. Whether it pertains for nesting because of sand con- dragging and to a NAUI Instructor or a NAUI Diver, you sistency and the nearby trench. pushing behav- Deep water close to shore pro- ior. They move can be confident the training is designed vides protection for leatherback slowly across sand and emerge shore, who congregate in an area to ensure the safety of your most valuable females to ascend and quickly when temperatures are cooler as they come in to lay their eggs. reach the steep beach. Leath- in the evening and night. As the A female will lay an average of asset – the people you love. Quality training erbacks dive deeper than all temperature cools, they become 5.1 nests of eggs every 10 days. defined by Caring, Confidence & Competence. other sea turtles to depths of 914m vertical under the sand and push They average nesting every two (3,000ft) and likely to more than up collectively. When the sand years, with small numbers nesting 1,220m (4,000ft). warms, they stop moving. at three- and four-year intervals. Nesting females seek to lay their NOAA marine biologist Kelly One possible reason for the inter- eggs in sand on the steep slope Stewart leads project leaders in val between nesting seasons is that just over the berm. They are look- leatherback monitoring and con- it takes that long to forage. Green ing for depth in the sand to build ducts hatchling DNA research with and hawksbill sea turtles, which a nest. Placement of the nest just the Marine Turtle Genetics Program. also nest at the refuge, lay more a short distance from the water’s Male sea turtles never return to often than leatherback sea turtles. edge helps hatchlings escape land, so back-calculating DNA pa- If a female is disturbed when she THE DEFINITION OF DIVING predation and be able to reach ternal fingerprints supplies ground- approaches the shore, she will not @NAUIWorldwide the water. breaking news for population infor- lay her eggs. However, she needs They cannot do push-ups if they mation like genetic diversity. to do so, or else the eggs will con- [email protected] | +1 813.628.6284 naui.org/certifications land upside down. They roll to Males mate with females off- tinue to develop additional shells, Photo by Kim Jong Mun

33 X-RAY MAG : 86 : 2018 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT XRay_Issue85_Full-Page BOOKS 215X280mm.indd SCIENCE 1& ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO3/14/18 2:33 PM feature 䴀砀椀挀漀 ☀ 䐀漀洀椀渀椀挀愀渀 刀攀瀀甀戀氀椀挀

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꤀ 䜀攀爀愀氀搀 一漀眀愀欀 ꤀ 䄀氀攀砀 䰀椀渀搀戀氀漀漀洀 椀渀昀漀䀀瀀爀漀搀椀瘀攀椀渀琀攀爀渀愀琀椀漀渀愀氀⸀挀漀洀 䘀刀䔀䔀 一䤀吀刀伀堀 眀眀眀⸀瀀爀漀搀椀瘀攀椀渀琀攀爀渀愀琀椀漀渀愀氀⸀挀漀洀 ꤀ 䰀甀椀猀 䨀愀瘀椀攀爀 匀愀渀搀漀瘀愀氀 ꤀搀甀砀礀

Desert vegetation at veiwpoint of Buck Island from Udall Point (above); Living historic building made of coral (right) at Christiansted National Historic Site (far right), managed by Zandy Hillis-Starr

increasing mortality rates for the from their core to the append- hurricanes and entire clutch. This is why it is essen- ages through the positioning of white band tial never to disrupt an approach- veins and arteries. This is believed disease, which ing female, and to allow her to to contribute to their deep diving caused a sea complete her nesting behavior. ability. urchin die-off. In addition to their large size, They are highly specialized It now faces leatherbacks are highly special- feeders that rely on giant deep- ocean acidifica- ized. They are an ancient remnant water jellyfish as a food source, tion, which kills of early stem stock. Hard-shelled which exists nowhere else. The coral reef struc- ticularly the park resources with a plethora of turtles was cemented when Tutein species stem from leatherback diving behavior eliminates preda- tures by prevent- hawksbill sea duties. showed her the first nesting sea stocks. They have existed since tors and competition for their food ing marine in- turtles. She She is the first permanent biolo- turtle she had ever seen. Tutein before the dinosaurs became source. Most sharks live in shallow vertebrates from is the Chief gist studying Buck Island, and her feels it is an honor and privilege to extinct. water. Their genetic evolution is pulling calcium of Resource connections with the Buck Island work in the conservation field and Their physiology is unique. Mam- steady and unchanged because from the water. Manage- research lab helped produce a strives to prevent species from mals are homeotherms, meaning they exist within an ecosystem Perhaps St. ment for the continuous baseline of ecological becoming extinct. He knows how they maintain body temperature with sectors that are relatively Croix’s theme National Park history. She was the first to docu- important people are to the sur- at consistent levels. Unlike other unchanged. should be about Service’s ment loggerheads on Buck Island vival of this ecosystem and works sea turtles, leatherbacks are fac- the individuals Christiansted and, in 2002, wrote the first proto- to connect to local youth through ultative homeotherms that warm Buck Island Reef making huge ecological impacts National Historic Site, Buck Island col for monitoring sea turtles in the education. their blood by other methods. National Monument and serving many needs. Zandy Reef National Monument, and National Park Service. Too many important projects Heat exchangers in their circula- Around Buck Island is an Hillis-Starr is another of these indi- Salt River Bay National Historical Joel A. Tutein is superintendent are ongoing in St. Croix to enu- tory system maintain core tem- 8,000-year-old reef that has sur- viduals who dedicated her career Park and Ecological Preserve. In of Buck Island Reef National Mon- merate, but all the studies con- perature. They avoid losing heat vived threats such as overfishing, to helping life on St. Croix, par- short, she manages three national ument. Hillis-Starr’s love for sea nect life with the island. For ex-

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Trumpetfish at Cane Bay (above); Peacock flounder at Protestant Bay (right); Sea urchin skeletons in seagrass bed (left); Captured mongoose, which is an invasive species, Sandy Point (below); Great white egret catch- es lizard (far right); Baby Zenaida dove chick gets sec- ond chance after fall from palm tree (lower right inset)

reefs from Part of his work is to oversee mon- nutrient runoff goose activity. and pollution Among his duties, he focuses on from coast- protecting visitors and teams from lines. egg poachers and illegal activity. Wildlife threats A number of threatening activities To preserve the reef habitat, no Michael take place on the island, includ- collection of natural items is per- Evans, man- ing drug and wildlife trafficking in mitted in St. Croix, including sand, ample, Alexandra Gulick, PhD ager and federal wildlife officer items such as ivory and taxidermy, coral, shells, urchins and sand dol- candidate at the Archie Carr of Sandy Point National Wildlife conducted for monetary profit. lars. Customs officials confiscate Center for Sea Turtle Research at Refuge, has worked these items to preserve the University of Florida, studies at the refuge for 24 the island. While col- the relationship between seagrass years, with an ad- lecting a few bits of ecosystem function and green ditional 23 years in uninhabited shells seems cies of mangrove inhabit sea turtle grazing dynamics and Puerto Rico. innocuous, the collec- the island: white, red, yel- behavior. Seagrass is a necessary He manages some tive action of individuals low and buttonwood. The food source for green sea turtles, of the invasive spe- has great impact. More St. Croix agave, or Egg- particularly in the Caribbean. cies at the refuge. than one ton of sand ers’ century plant (Agave Seagrass are invaluable coastal Mongoose were was confiscated by cus- eggersiana), is endemic ecosystems that not only sup- introduced in the toms agents in St Croix to St. Croix and found port a diverse array of marine life, late 1700s to remove from visitors in two years. Croix. Rare trees and plants such only in dry regions. Night blooming but also play an important role in snakes and rats. How- Vahl’s boxwood (Buxus vahlii) are cereus is a cactus flower the size carbon sequestration, protecting ever, they eat sea Island life found only in Puerto Rico and St. of a dinner plate that opens at coastlines from storms, and buffer- turtle eggs and are Endangered plant Croix, and some are among the dusk one night each year. ing neighboring systems like coral an ongoing threat. species depend on St. rarest trees in the world. Four spe- West End Salt Pond is home to

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Buck Island Reef National Monument Salt River Bay Protestant Cane Cay Point Bay Udall

Christiansted

Frederiksted  Location of US Virgin Islands on global map (above); Satellite map Sandy Point National of St. Croix (right) Wildlife Refuge

NASA

Puerto Rico and Rebuilding the reef system are present in The Nature Conservancy de- St. Croix, though veloped a Coral Nurseries and numbers there Restoration project led by Dive are unstudied. Safety Officer Lisa Terry. She and Cardisoma her team of volunteers cultivate, guanhumi are harvest and plant staghorn and the species of elkhorn corals around St. Croix. land crabs found According to the Nature Con- on St. Croix. servancy, critically endangered Locals hunt them staghorn and elkhorn coral have at night and declined by 90 to 95 percent. Pop- keep them alive, ulations of elkhorn coral in the US feeding them for Virgin Islands alone has dropped several days to from 85 percent to 5 percent. clear pollution Restoration efforts are rebuilding from their bodies the reefs through in-water nurser- least terns, an endangered sea- before eating them. ies that are strategically planted in bird in need of listing to better St. Croix has seen an increase in areas where natural and human protect them. Other birds such as shark activity. In fact, reef sharks threats are low. Zenaida doves occur on the island were plentiful at the bottom of and are limited to the Caribbean walls on all dives. While the reef How you can help region. Merlins and peregrines also life was fascinating and hawksbill Visit St. Croix to support the econ- hunt here. sea turtles were engaging, sharks omy and practice sustainable Land crabs have declined in steal the show on deeper dives. behavior at home and abroad by THIS PAGE: Reef sharks steal the show, with increasing numbers in St. Croix

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Staghorn coral being harvested (above) and transported (right); Divers planting staghorn coral Nurseries show that reefs are (above); One of the ways in which immediate shelter for fish (left) you can help is to assist with trash removal, such as this can floating avoiding single-use plastics in Protestant Bay (right) such as straws and plastic bags. Leave natural life in accessible and collaborating place in this paradise by with the wildlife refuges and The not purchasing or collecting Nature Conservancy. shells, sand and coral. Place all trash in proper bins and Jennifer Idol is the first woman recycle whenever possible. to dive 50 U.S. states and au- Share your love for this island thor of An American Immersion. oasis through your stories and photos. uled nights. These groups may observe She’s a PADI Ambassadiver, member While fish and wildlife service manage- hatching nests after participating in an of the Ocean Artists Society and has ment needs volunteers and interns, the educational seminar. The program is earned 29 certifications throughout her STATES, OFFICE OF THE GOVERNOR. FREDERIK- turtle team is limited to interns studying worth visiting as staff answer any ques- 22 years of diving. For more information, STED, VIRGIN ISLANDS. 1958. sea turtles with compelling sea turtle tions about the sea turtles. visit: theunderwaterdesigner.com US FISH AND WILDLIFE SERVICE conservation goals. Participants in nest Life in St. Croix is a complex and US VIRGIN ISLANDS CARIBBEAN ISLANDS NATIONAL watching and monitoring require signifi- changing ecosystem driven by the re- REFERENCES: WILDLIFE REFUGE COMPLEX. COMPREHENSIVE cant training and must be capable of lationship between inhabitants, visitors, BUREAU OF ECONOMIC RESEARCH, OFFICE OF THE CONSERVATION PLAN AND ENVIRONMENTAL walking in sand several miles each day or wildlife and plant life.  GOVERNOR, CHARLOTTE AMALIE. US VIRGIN ASSESSMENT SANDY POINT, GREEN CAY, AND night. The turtle team is composed of six ISLANDS ANNUAL TOURISM INDICATORS. US BUCK ISLAND NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGES interns who work four months of the year. Special thanks go to the staff of Cane VIRGIN ISLANDS. AUGUST 2017. [DRAFT]. US DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR FISH The turtle watch program includes a Bay Dive Shop (canebayscuba.com) for US DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR GEOLOGICAL AND WILDLIFE SERVICE SOUTHEAST REGION public education opportunity on sched- their support, making numerous dive sites SURVEY [MAP]. VIRGIN ISLANDS OF THE UNITED ATLANTA, GEORGIA. AUGUST 2009.

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