St.— Changing Croix Tides on the Caribbean Isle Text and photos by Jennifer Idol 28 X-RAY MAG : 86 : 2018 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO feature St Croix Diver at reef wall, St. Croix (above); Reef shark (top right); Converted sugar plantation home (right); Emerging leatherback sea turtle hatchling at Sandy Point (left) islands. The islands are uniquely situated next to the Puerto Rican Trench, the deepest part of the Atlantic Ocean, with depths exceeding 8,400m (27,559ft). This unique geography influences the nest- ing behavior of leatherback sea turtles St. Croix is known for nesting on Puerto Rico and St. Croix. leatherback sea turtles but Visitors since the 1400s have left their hardwoods. Canopy loss from the removal impression on the islands, seen through of trees on St. Croix reduced rainfall and has recently become known historic buildings and the changed land- diminished water resources. The remain- as one of the islands through scape, especially on the island of St. ing tropical dry forest can be seen in the which Hurricane Maria passed. Croix. The Christiansted National Historic northwestern corner of the island and is However, life on this US Virgin Site reflects the activities of St. Croix’s known locally as the rainforest. colonial legacy as part of the Danish Islands are isolated and vulnerable Island reaches beyond the tales West Indies center for sugar production, ecological centers. St. Croix resembles a of these two stories. trade, and Transatlantic Slave Trade. desert but is home to significant life. From Visiting peoples changed life on St. four nesting species of endangered and St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix com- Croix, from clearcutting native tropical threatened sea turtles (hawksbill, leather- prise the US Virgin Islands on the north- dry forest to prevent malaria and develop back, green and loggerhead) to highly eastern side of the Caribbean Sea. sugarcane plantations to the introduc- endangered least terns, the island is an St. Croix is isolated from the other two tion of non-native species and export of overlooked gem. Tropical dry forest of St. Croix. PREVIOUS PAGE: Hawksbill sea turtle 29 X-RAY MAG : 86 : 2018 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO feature St Croix Snorkeling at Frederiksted Pier (above); Point Udall (left); Cane Bay reef scene (far left); Diver and dive boat of Cane Bay Dive Shop (top right); Detail of Frederiksted Pier—life grows abundantly, even in small places (right) Hurricane Maria Following category 5 Hur- ricane Irma, another cat- egory 5 hurricane moved Quiet oasis through the Caribbean Nearly all tourists visit from the causing devastation in United States or Puerto Rico. Puerto Rico and Domi- St. John and St. Thomas re- nica last October. Most of ceive 90 percent of visitors to the US Vir- Frederiksted are restaurants for people St. Croix suffered little damage, though gin Islands, leaving St. Croix a quiet and looking for fresh food. Most tourists fre- the infrastructure struggled to provide uncrowded escape with opportunities quent the Christiansted Boardwalk area electricity for all buildings during the first to dive, snorkel or tour the island. Point for pubs and food, but options are also months following the hurricane. Udall is the easternmost point of the available in the Cane Bay area. Tornadoes caused more damage United States and a gathering place to Most goods are imported; this in- than the hurricane, creating isolated observe the sunrise. Almost three-fourths cludes water since the groundwater damage. Divi Carina Bay, an all-inclu- of tourists arrive by cruise boats, so the faces contamination, while well-drawn sive beach resort and casino, was one island is usually quiet. water exceeds recharge rates due to of the damaged businesses. They opted Since food is expensive, the Plaza the lack of rainfall. If you must have to rebuild a modern facility that will Extra West Superstore can be a valu- bottled water in your accommodations, open in 2019. The road at Sandy Point able resource. The café at Sand Castle buy by the gallon at the grocery store National Wildlife Refuge remains closed on the Beach hotel and Blue Moon in to save both plastic and money. due to damage from the storms. Other- Iguana in tropical dry forest on St. Croix 30 X-RAY MAG : 86 : 2018 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO feature St Croix AnAmericanImmersion.com Cane Bay Beach (above); "Seasonally Closed" sign at Sandy Point Nation al Available on Amazon Wildlife Refuge (left); Leatherback sea turtle hatchlings emerge from their nest (right); Hatchling tracks in the sand at Sandy Point (top right) Sandy Point turtles. Research re- National Wildlife Refuge vealed they rely on the The southwestern tip of St. Croix was beach at Sandy Point established as a national wildlife refuge as a primary nesting when the US Fish and Wildlife Service site. Foot traffic across purchased an initial 340 acres from the nests prevents success- Discover how an oil spill inspired a woman West Indies Investment Company in ful hatching. Hatchlings emerge from they lay their eggs. They lay from 60 to to undertake a quest to become the first 1984. The refuge’s administration head- their shells and wait a few centimeters 80, and sometimes as many as 100 to woman to dive all 50 states and explore vivid quarters are located in Puerto Rico. (half-inch) below the sand before 115 eggs. The bigger the female, the underwater landscapes in this revealing book. Forming the refuge caused concern emerging. Stepping on a nest can eas- more eggs they lay. The real wonder is about diminished accessibility to the ily kill 20 to 30 individuals. in the kinds of eggs they lay. beach. Activities are limited because Ten days before hatchlings break They produce both yolkless and the refuge closes to the public between through the eggshell, they need more yolked eggs. Thirty to forty percent of April and August every year to protect oxygen flow across the shell. Sand the eggs laid are yolkless and will not endangered leatherback sea turtles, the must not be packed down, or else hatch. They are smaller than normal- largest of the sea turtles. Educational nests suffocate due to the obstruction sized eggs and come out last to form programs help the public understand of the flow of oxygen to the eggs and a cap over the yolked eggs. This why the closure is a positive activity. hatchlings. Collapsed nests reduce gas maintains air space to optimize gas wise, the biggest threat from the hur- exchange, producing higher mortality exchange as embryos develop and ricane is economic impact of travelers Closing beaches saves lives and lower success rates. keeps sand from filling in. This is why avoiding St. Croix due to perceptions of For more than 38 years, a program has Leatherback sea turtles are extraor- keeping the beaches free of activity at PHOTOGRAPHY & DESIGN damage. been in place for the study of these sea dinarily adapted animals, even in how Sandy Point is important. 31 X-RAY MAG : 86 : 2018 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO St Croix A perfect view from both sides of the isle. Join our school. Leatherback sea turtle hatchlings emerge from the sand (right) at Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge (above) Refuge management 47 acres, totaling 385 The refuge is one of nine national acres. Depending on wildlife refuges in the Caribbean. beach erosion, the Green Cay National Wildlife Ref- beach fluctuates by uge was established on the north- six to 10 acres. Scien- ern side of St. Croix to protect the tists monitor the an- last significant populations of the nual erosion cycle, critically endangered St. Croix which threatens nesting sites and Refuges, has managed and stud- ground lizard. an archeological site. ied life at the refuge. She manages Funding for Sandy Point Na- The Aklis archeological site at the nesting area and engages in tional Wildlife Refuge has been Sandy Point has uncovered pre- endangered species manage- limited since its creation. Two staff Columbian skeletal material from ment and population recovery. members oversee all duties of the 200 to 400 A.D. and some others The leatherback sea turtles she refuge, from facilities manage- that could be older. Monitoring oversees are not just a keystone ment and safety patrol to the these sites helps volunteers and species, but also begin life as ador- management of invasive species, interns move nests and artifacts to able palm-sized hatchlings. Four to Even if you hated biology class you’ll love learning to dive in habitat restoration and reforesta- safety. Nest relocation saves 20,000 six nests are usually built a day, but The Florida Keys. In just three days you can be certified by tion, and monitoring endangered to 30,000 hatchlings that would 2017 was an unusually quiet year the world’s best instructors. Before long, you’ll go down with and threatened species. Recent have been lost to erosion. for nesting activity. the ships and come face-to-face with thousands of different partnerships with the US National Last year, Sandy Point saw the species on America’s only living coral reef. Oceanic and Atmospheric Admin- Nesting sea turtles lowest number of nesting sea fla-keys.com/diving istration (NOAA) have enabled For more than 18 years, Claudia turtles in 25 years, with 26 individu- programs to continue. Lombard, wildlife biologist and fed- als. Normally, 95 individuals nest Since the refuge was estab- eral wildlife officer for Sandy Point at Sandy Point National Wildlife lished, they obtained an additional and Green Cay National Wildlife Refuge during nesting season.