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Cómo Entrenar Y Escalar Mejor

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Cómo Entrenar Y Escalar Mejor R. 5120773 Cómo entrenar y escalar mejor Eric Hörst 796.52 MANUAL RECOMENDADO POR: ESCUELA ESPAÑOLA DE ALTA MONTAÑA Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada Ediciones Desnivel DEDICATORIA A mis padres, por 30 años de amor y apoyo y a Jeff Batzer, mi original compañero de entrenamiento cuya increíble forma de escalar -en todas sus variantes- continúa siendo una inspiración. CÓMO ENTRENAR Y ESCALAR MEJOR © Chockstone Press. / Eric J. Hörst, 1994 Título original: Flash Training © Ediciones Desnivel 1ª Edición en castellano: Febrero 1996 Traducción: Gema Redondo Revisión técnica: Tino Núñez Maquetación: Jorge Galán Liquete Las fotos sin créditos pertenecen al autor. Fotos de aprendizaje: Mike McGill y el autor. Imprime: Miram ISBN: 84-87746-64-0 Depósito Legal: M-32.683-1996 Está prohibida la reproducción o almacenamiento total o parcial del libro por cualquier medio: fotográfico, fotocopia, mecánico, reprográfico, óptico, magnético o electrónico sin la autorización expresa y por escrito del titular del © copyright. Ley de la Propiedad Intelectual (22/1987). ADVERTENCIA: LA ESCALADA ES UN DEPORTE EN EL QUE PUEDES RESULTAR SERIAMENTE LESIONADO O INCLUSO MORIR. Éste es un manual técnico para practicar la escalada, un deporte intrínsecamente peligroso; las rutinas y ejercicios descritos son aconsejables sólo para escaladores con un cierto nivel (6a en adelante). Para tu seguridad, no te bastará únicamente con la información contenida en este libro. Tu seguridad física en este deporte depende de tu propio criterio basado en una información competente, tu experiencia, y un buen conocimiento de tu propia capacidad como escalador. No hay nada en la escalada que pueda sustituir al profesor, cosa fácil de encontrar. Deberías contratar a un monitor, o guía de montaña, para aprender técnicas de escalada seguras. Infórmate en tu federación territorial. Antes de entrenar para este deporte es aconsejable consultar a un especialista en medicina deportiva. Realizar ejercicios de musculación sin la supervisión de un experto puede conducir a lesiones importantes. El mero uso de la información contenida en este libro indica que asumes cualquier riesgo derivado de la práctica de escalada, así como tu reconocimiento como único responsable. El editor, el autor, la traductora y el revisor técnico no pueden asumir responsabilidad alguna por cualquier accidente, lesión o daño sufrido por el lector del presente libro. Ad Vander Horston en Anabólica, 8a+, Siurana, España. Fotografía Beth Wald. CONTENIDO 1.- APRENDIZAJE MOTOR Y RENDIMIENTO ...................................................................... 8 2.- ENTRENAMIENTO DE FUERZA ...................................................................................... 25 3.- CÓMO ENTRENAR/MEJORAR LA TÉCNICA ................................................................ 73 4.- ENTRENAMIENTO MENTAL ......................................................................................... 100 5.- DIETA Y NUTRICIÓN ...................................................................................................... 123 6.- CASOS DE LESIONES ...................................................................................................... 146 7.- EL GIMNASIO EN CASA ................................................................................................. 157 8.- ENTREVISTAS ACERCA DEL ENTRENAMIENTO ..................................................... 176 9.- TEST DE CONDICIÓN FÍSICA Y GLOSARIO ............................................................... 197 Reconocimientos Me gustaría darles las gracias a todos aquellos que han contribuido con su tiempo y energía a materializar "Cómo entrenar y escalar mejor". Deseo agradecer su contribución de forma particular, a todos los escaladores expertos que, con gran entusiasmo, han compartido sus conocimientos para que el resto de los que practicamos la escalada nos beneficiemos. Entre ellos se incluyen Mia Axon, Russ Clune, John Gill, Jonathan Houck, Lynn Hill, John Long, Suzanne Paulson, Steve Petro, Mike Pont, Dr. Tim Toula y Barbara Brand Turner. También me gustaría darles las gracias a los fotógrafos y artistas cuyo trabajo alegra las páginas de este libro. Entre ellos están John Barstow, John Dine, Stephen Kirnhofer, Chris Falkenstein, Vincent Fasano, Chris Goplerud, Mark Guider, Nina Isabelle, Michael Kodus, Peter Lewis, Mike McGill, Sean Michael, Susan Robinson, Carl Samples y Rick Thompson. Además me gustaría agradecer a Scott Titterington esta magnífica publicación. Finalmente, mi agradecimiento para los otros miembros del "equipo de apoyo"; Estos son Bob Africa, George Mummert y Bob Perna - gracias por ayudarme a realizar mi increíble "caja" de entrenamiento. Y por supuesto, un agradecimiento especial para mi esposa Lisa y mis padres, Bob y Ethel Hörst. La vida es o una aventura atrevida o nada. Helen Keller Prólogo "Cómo entrenar y escalar mejor" se ha estado madurando durante algún tiempo. Supongo que se podría decir que empecé mi investigación a los 17 años, cuando mi hermano mayor Kyle me llevó a hacer mi primera ascensión, un IVº. Aquella excursión fue todo lo que necesité para convertirme en un enamorado del sentido kinescético, estético y espiritual de este deporte. Aquel día comencé mi búsqueda de los secretos de los grados altos. Poco después, conocí a algunos compañeros del Instituto, Jeff Batzer y Hugh Herr, que sentían lo mismo por la escalada. Escalaba casi diariamente con Jeff, y a veces coincidíamos en las paredes con Hugh, para lo que se convirtió en nuestra primera experiencia de "competición" en la escalada. La mayor revelación de aquella temporada fue el descubrimiento de Master of the Rock (Maestro de la roca), la biografía de John Gill, que constituyó una especie de "Biblia" para nuestra generación de escaladores. Este libro fue el que plantó la semilla de la escalada en nosotros. El resto es historia. Master of the Rock no sólo cuenta la vida del mejor boulderer (alguien que hace boulder o bloque) de todos los tiempos, también facilita la primera información tangible acerca del entrenamiento para la escalada. Esto fue fundamental porque muchos escaladores estaban deseando mejorar, pero les faltaba la información para ello. Después de todo, la clave para destacar en cualquier campo es tener un deseo de superación por encima de la media y saber cómo. El objetivo de este libro es ser una fuente exacta que contemple todos los aspectos del rendimiento en la escalada. La presente obra te facilitará técnicas, ideas y consejos que parten directamente de la experiencia de más de una docena de escaladores de primera fila y otros profesionales. Además, incluye material inédito y único para lograr un volumen completamente actual. Todo ello hace de "Cómo entrenar y escalar mejor" una obra insustituible. Espero que este libro te lleve a nuevas cotas de motivación y positivismo que te hagan mejorar tu rendimiento como escalador. Por favor escríbenos y cuéntanos tus logros en las paredes y en el rocódromo; también te animo a que hagas el test de condición física que viene en el Apéndice y nos lo mandes. Si no fuera por la tremenda respuesta positiva de mis seminarios de entrenamiento, programas personales de entrenamiento, artículos publicados en las revistas Climbing, Rock & Ice y el diario de entrenamiento "Flash Communique", puede que nunca hubiera existido este libro. Así que, por lo que más quieras, ¡mándame una nota! ¡Ah!, y no te olvides de compartir tu energía, habilidad e información con otros escaladores. Préstales tu libro por unos cuantos días, pero asegúrate de que te lo devuelven. Recuerda el viejo proverbio, "el profesor aprende mucho más que el estudiante". UNA DEFINICIÓN DE ENTRENAMIENTO Si te acercas por cualquier pared o rocódromo, o pasas cerca de un grupo de dos o más escaladores, lo más seguro es que escuches la palabra "entrenamiento" revoloteando por todos lados como los pasos dinámicos en una vía de Rifle (Colorado). Pero, ¿qué quiere decir "entrenamiento" exactamente? Para la mayoría, entrenar es sinónimo de desarrollar fuerza. Indudablemente, habrá gente que espere que este libro sea una página tras otra de ejercicios diseñados para aumentar la fuerza muscular. Después de una primera ojeada puede que se sorprendan de comprobar que tan sólo un capítulo se centra específicamente en el entrenamiento de fuerza. Mi definición particular de entrenamiento: es cualquier práctica, disciplina o ejercicio diseñado para mejorar el rendimiento y la destreza de cada uno en las paredes. Claramente, esto representa un amplio espectro de temas y, por dicha razón, el contenido actual del presente libro resulta tan amplio. A través de este paradigma espero que aceptes que el entrenamiento contempla muchos campos, incluyendo el hacer boulder para solucionar problemas, escalar en una pared casera para mejorar la técnica, a vista, con reposos en las chapas, o en este caso, cualquier ascensión en roca de verdad y viajar para experimentar diferentes tipos de escalada. También se incluyen los estiramientos para ganar flexibilidad, el vigilar tu dieta para que así obtengas mucha energía pero nada de grasa, visualizar alguna ruta que estés "trabajando", descansar lo suficiente y escuchar a tu cuerpo para evitar lesiones, evaluarte a ti mismo constantemente para determinar tus verdaderas fuerzas y debilidades tanto físicas como mentales y, por supuesto, realizar varios ejercicios gimnásticos que están bastante relacionados con algunas posiciones y movimientos bastante comunes a la escalada. Como puedes ver, el
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