Contents Preface 9 Ahwahnee Boulders, West 94 Indian Creek 98 Introduction 11 Lower Yosemite Falls 104 Swan Slab Boulders 108 Logistics 11 Camp 4, Overview 112 Bouldering History 22 Camp 4, Columbia Grades and Stars 29 Boulders 114 Yosemite’s Best Lists 31 Camp 4, East 116 Overview Maps 32 Camp 4, Center 122 How to Use this Guide 34 Camp 4, West 128 Topo Legend 34 The Crystals 136 Areas Yabo Boulder 139 The Bachar Boulder 140 Turtle Dome 35 Wood Yard 142 Bridalveil Boulders 36 The Wave 146 Lower Cathedral 38 Intersection Boulders 148 Gunsight Boulders 40 Knobby Wall 148 Cathedral Boulders 42 Appendix Lost Boulders 50 Candyland 54 More From SuperTopo 150 The Presidential Boulder 60 About the Author 152 Sentinel Boulders 62 Problems by Grade 153 Chicken Boulder 68 Index 157 Housekeeping 70 Curry Village 76 Happy Isles 82 Horse Trail Boulders 84 Ahwahnee Boulders, East 88 Ahwahnee Boulders, Central 90 5 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM Warning! Climbing and bouldering are inherently dangerous sports in which severe injuries or death may occur. Relying on the information in this book may increase the danger. When climbing you can only rely on your skill, training, experience, and conditioning. If you have any doubts as to your ability to safely climb any route in this guide, do not try it. This book is neither a professional climbing instructor nor a substitute for one. It is not an instructional book. Do not use it as one. It contains information that is nothing more than a compilation of opinions about bouldering in Yosemite Valley. These opinions are neither facts nor promises. Treat the information as opinions and nothing more. Do not substitute these opinions for your own common sense and experience. Assumption of Risk There may be errors in this book resulting from the mistake of the author and/or the people with whom they consulted. The information was gathered from a variety of sources, which may not have been independently verified. Those who provided the information may have made mistakes in their descriptions. The author may have made mistakes in their conveyance of the information in this book. The author cannot, therefore, guarantee the correctness of any of the information contained in this book. The topographical maps, photo-diagrams, difficulty ratings, danger ratings, protection ratings, approach and/or descent information, suggestions about equipment, and other matters may be incorrect or misleading. Fixed protection may be absent, unreliable, or misplaced. You must keep in mind that the information in this book may be erroneous, so use your own judgement when choosing, approaching, climbing, or descending from a route described in this book. DO NOT USE THIS BOOK UNLESS YOU [AND YOUR ESTATE] PROMISE NEVER TO TRY TO SUE US IF YOU GET HURT OR KILLED. Disclaimer of Warranties THE AUTHOR AND PUBLISHER WARN THAT THIS BOOK CONTAINS ONLY THE AUTHOR’S OPINIONS ON THE SUBJECTS DISCUSSED. THEY MAKE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR PURPOSE, OR OTHERWISE, AND IN ANY EVENT, THEIR LIABILITY FOR BREACH OF ANY WARRANTY OR CONTRACT WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENT OF THIS BOOK IS LIMITED TO THE PURCHASE PRICE OF THE BOOK. THEY FURTHER LIMIT TO SUCH PURCHASE PRICE THEIR LIABILITY ON ACCOUNT OF ANY KIND OF NEGLIGENT BEHAVIOR WHATSOEVER ON THEIR PART WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK. 6 YOSEMITE VALLEY BOULDERING: SUPERTOPOS Acknowledgements The following folks contributed beta, feedback, topos, photos, and support. Thank you! Dan Wilder Donna Wilder Andrew Wilder Randy Puro Paul Barraza Tim Medina Courtney Hemphill Lyn Verinsky John Bachar Tommy and Beth Caldwell Dean Potter Rick Cashner Cedar Wright Ivo Ninov Noah Kaufman Josh Williams Brian Capps Dean Fidelman Wills Young Matt Keebler Jamie Emerson Dave Pegg Kay McNamara Steve McNamara Todd Offenbacher Corey Rich David Safanda Randy Spurrier Jonathan Thesenga 7 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM 8 Preface Y“Yosemite is a pile.” “The bouldering is just a at these problems every chance I had, even bunch of polished slabs and boring old-school during the lunch break from my janitorial mantels.” “Camp 4 has more glassy surfaces job at the Degnan’s pizzeria. After a few than a skyscraper.” years of Valley bouldering, I began realizing that though Camp 4 certainly has its gems, Why do I hear these kinds of comments many of the other areas offer a greater so often? What’s wrong with these people? selection of fun moderates. In recent years Are they that out of touch with reality? I have been amazed by the potential for Maybe they only bouldered in Yosemite on new problems and even whole new areas; a 90-degree August day. Perhaps they didn’t it seems that I can’t keep up with the rapid venture past the Wine Boulder, though growth of my personal project list. While they wouldn’t have had to go far to find writing this book, I saw many climbed and cool new problems. Or has this just become unclimbed problems that I couldn’t wait to the accepted opinion about bouldering in try. I saw boulders with crazy features that Yosemite that people blindly perpetuate? had never been touched by climbers. Whole regions like the lower Merced Canyon (west Snap out of it! Yosemite bouldering of junction 140/120) and Mirror Lake have is amazing. I’ve bouldered in many hardly seen any development. of the world’s best areas – Hueco Tanks, Fontainebleau, Grampians, The I believe that now is the dawn of another Buttermilks, Cresciano – and Yosemite bouldering revolution in Yosemite. If more is in the same league. The big beautiful of the bouldering energy that has been so boulders are covered with fun problems rampant throughout the States in the past that require all different styles of climbing. five years is directed toward Yosemite, stacks And the potential for classic new problems of modern classics will emerge. Highball is staggering. Sure the old school Camp 4 aficionados will risk it on tall bold lines, circuit is polished but that just means that compression kings will squeeze their way you need to get out to the newer areas, or up nearly blank bulges, and crimp masters even go exploring and find completely new will find cool faces freckled with small problems. edges. Alongside these desperates many fun moderates will also be established. It will My first experiences with Yosemite take work and dedication but the results bouldering ten years ago involved diligently will be well worth the effort. working through the easier problems in the Camp 4. Soon however I became inspired —Matt Wilder to climb classics like King Cobra and Midnight Lightning. I would throw myself 9 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM 10 Introduction Bus Travel By Matt Wilder Short of having a car, the bus is the best way to get from a major airport to Yosemite. From Oakland, San Francisco, or Los Angeles take the Greyhound Bus to Merced and then the Via Bus to Yosemite. Plan a full day of travel if riding the bus. From June to November you can only reach Yosemite from WWhen you come to Yosemite, there is no Mammoth by the YARTS bus. question about it, you’re going to have Car Travel a good time. There are a few things, There are four state highways that access however, that will make your trip more Yosemite: 120 from the west, 120 from the hassle free. In this section you will find lots east, 140 from the west, and 41 from the of information that will make your visit southwest. The fastest access from the San even more enjoyable. However, for more Francisco Bay Area is 120. Highway 140 is updated and extensive information you the best option if coming from Los Angeles should visit the Yosemite Beta Page on the or Fresno. Highway 140 is also the lowest SuperTopo web site: www.supertopo.com/ elevation road and offers the best winter climbingareas/yosemite.html access if 120 and 41 have chain controls (chains are rarely required on 140). Highway Getting There 120 from the east (aka The Tioga Pass Road) offers the best summertime access from Air Travel The closest major international airports are Bishop, Utah, Nevada, and eastern states. Oakland International (3.5-hour drive) and However, this road closes after the first San Francisco International (4-hour drive). major winter storm (usually in November) Of the two, Oakland is preferred because and doesn’t open until the snow melts it’s less chaotic and 30 minutes closer to (usually late May). To access Yosemite from Yosemite. Sacramento International is the east in winter, you must get to the west also a 4-hour drive from Yosemite but has side access roads by driving north through fewer connecting flights. Fresno Yosemite Tahoe or south through Bakersfield. International is only a 3-hour drive but Rent a car at any airport or major city. offers the fewest flights. Since all of these International climbers who stay in the airports are about the same distance United States for more than a month often from Yosemite, shop around for the best buy a used car in San Francisco or Los fares. Some climbers fly into Los Angeles Angeles and sell it (or scrap it) at the end International, which is a 7-hour drive to of their trip. To find a cheap car, look in the Yosemite. local papers or on www.craigslist.org. Many people stay in Yosemite without Train Travel a car. Renting a car is expensive and it’s The train is not the fastest way to possible to reach most climbs by the free Yosemite but it’s a cool way to travel.