Baking with Less Sugar
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COPYRIGHTED: NOT FOR Joanne Chang of Flour Bakery + Café AUTHORIZED DISTRIBUTION BAKING WITH LESS SUGAR RECIPES FOR DESSERTS using NATURAL SWEETENERS and LITTLE-TO-NO WHITE SUGAR Photographs by Joseph De Leo COPYRIGHTED: NOT FOR AUTHORIZED DISTRIBUTION CONTENTS Introduction CHAPTER TWO Lemon Ricotta Cupcakes with Fluffy Lemon CHAPTER FIVE Frosting Why low/no sugar? JUST CHOCOLATE FRUIT IS SWEET Honey-Almond Snack Cake What is low/no sugar? Chocolate-Orange Truffles Pumpkin-Walnut Cheesecake Bars What's behind the science of sweets? Simple Chocolate Mousse CHAPTER FOUR Pecan-Date Shortbread Cookies How to stock your kitchen Double Chocolate Whoopie Pies BAKING WITH Spiced Pear Turnovers Tips Bittersweet Chocolate Pots de Crème MAPLE SYRUP Strawberry Cream Cheese Fool How to substitute for sugar Chocolate Fudge–Bourbon Ice Cream AND MOLASSES Coconut Tapioca with Mango, Pineapple, and Mint Chocolate Ice Cream Sandwiches Lime CHAPTER ONE Maple-Bacon-Cheddar Biscuits Mocha Shaved Ice with Vanilla Cream Almond Milk Panna Cotta with Plum-Grape REDUCING Molasses Gingerbread Compote Deep-Dark-Chocolate Pudding Cakes Cranberry-Cornmeal-Maple Bread Orange Granita with Pears, Cranberries, and WHITE SUGAR Truffle Chocolate Cream Pie Citrus Pear-Cardamom-Walnut Scones Pumpkin-Apple Spice Muffins Pineapple-Coconut-Banana Sorbet Blueberry Bran Muffins CHAPTER THREE Keith’s Super-Snappy Gingersnaps Unbelievable Banana Ice Cream Cinnamon Sugar Monkey Bread USING HONEY Sticky Toffee Pudding with Maple Sauce Summer Peach Dumplings with Almonds and Better than Flour Famous Banana Bread Honey Cashew Morning Buns Old-Fashioned Indian Pudding Whipped Cream Fudgy Mascarpone Brownies Cherry Almond Granola Maple Crème Caramel Mixed Berry Cobbler with Crème Fraîche Cameron’s Lemon–Polenta-Pistachio Buttons Cranberry-Orange-Walnut Biscotti Maple Pecan Ice Cream French Apple-Almond Crostata Oatmeal-Raisin-Cranberry Cookies Nutty-Seedy-Fruity Energy Bars Maple Cream Donuts Carrot-Pineapple Cake with Cream Cheese Pear-Maple Tarte Tatin White Chocolate-Cherry-Almond Cookies Banana Cinnamon Bread Pudding Frosting Maple-Pumpkin Pie Blueberry Nectarine Pie Vanilla Honey Rice Pudding Kabocha Squash Spice Cake Vanilla-Pecan Coffee Cake Honey-Champagne Sabayon Parfaits with Fresh Apple-Walnut-Maple Cake Berries Acknowledgments Coconut Chiffon Cake with Coconut Glaze Raspberry Honey Frozen Yogurt Index Yellow Birthday Cake with Fluffy Chocolate Ganache Frosting Peanut Butter Honey Cookies Warm Apple-Raisin Crisp Fresh Peach Ricotta Tart Pain d’Épices LowSugarBaking_INT_2G.indd 6-7 8/21/14 1:01 PM COPYRIGHTED: NOT FOR AUTHORIZED DISTRIBUTION 4. Apple juice and grape juice concentrates. gentle sweetness to baked goods and when used When I was buying “fruit-only spread” for our in moderation, can lead your taste buds to think HOW TO SUBSTITUTE toast at home in an effort to reduce our personal something is sweeter than it really is. I’ve been sugar consumption, I noticed that the ingredients using pinches of ground cinnamon in my home were always fruit and then apple and grape juice baking and eating for years; Christopher’s daily FOR SUGAR concentrates. I really couldn’t tell the difference oatmeal has a generous grating of cinnamon stick, and neither could Christopher; in fact we both and he’s never once missed the sugar in his break- preferred these to the full-sugar versions because fast. In addition to cinnamon, other spices like the flavors of the fruit really came through. With nutmeg, allspice, mace, cardamom, and ground To work around not using refined white sugar, I many pastries and they will taste just as good if that in mind, I reduced apple juice and grape juice ginger all read as sweet to your taste buds, so use loved exploring baking with these ingredients. Not not better. concentrates until they became thick and syrupy these liberally in your quest for lower-sugar baked all of these made their way into the recipes here, and used them to sweeten a host of desserts with goods. For best flavor, buy cinnamon sticks and but I offer them up as well as possibilities for you 2. Honey. Depending on where it is harvested great success. whole nutmeg and use a Microplane to grind to to play with in your baking. I made a conscious and from what flower, honey comes in all different flavors and kinds. As with many ingredients I order. You’ll get infinitely more of a flavor boost decision not to include artificial sweeteners. I’ve 5. Vanilla extract and vanilla beans. My favorite use in baking, I tend to choose what tastes good than with preground dried spices. never liked the various aftertastes that each one flavor by far, vanilla immediately makes your mouth to me in its raw state to determine what I use in / HO 27 brings, and I wanted to develop recipes that I’d and nose think “sweet” when it’s included in a 8. Orange juice and pineapple juice concen- my baked goods; with so many locally produced feel comfortable serving anyone looking to reduce trates. dessert. Vanilla beans are expensive but worth it; These juice concentrates make a good, W honeys these days, I suggest you pick one that you refined white sugar consumption. T their tiny seeds infuse everything they are mixed tangy, bright source of sweetness for sorbets, ice O S love eating straight from the jar for your baking. into with an unmistakable heady perfume. Store creams, and baked goods such as pound cakes ubstitute 1. Maple syrup. Maple is the boiled sap from the Honey can be stored at room temperature when them tightly wrapped in a cool, dark place. We also and cookies. They are not quite as versatile as maple tree. It has a buttery warm flavor (maybe it open. It’s a bit higher in calories than sugar and use a lot of vanilla extract in our baking. It’s a less apple and grape juice concentrates, which have just seems buttery and warm to me because I also sweeter, so you can use less in your baking expensive, albeit less potent, way of adding vanilla less of an acidic component to them, but they are FO associate it with a big pile of pancakes), and it adds and still satisfy your sweet tooth. R flavor to a dessert. Make sure to get pure, not arti - still a valuable sweetener in your no-sugar baking S a distinctive flavor to all of the desserts it is used UGAR 26 / BAKING WITH LESS-SUGAR 26 ficial, extract and store it in a cool, dark cabinet. list of ingredients. in. We use grade B maple syrup, which means that 3. Molasses. This thick, dark treacle syrup is the by-product of refining sugarcane or beets it comes from tapping maple trees of their sap 6. Almond extract. Like vanilla extract, a trace 9. Dates. Learning to bake with dates was a reve - for sugar. I stock a mild unsulphured molasses late in the winter when it is a bit warmer and the of almond extract flavoring in a pastry can prime lation for me. I’ve tasted dates wrapped in bacon in my pantry that adds a spicy warm note to my sap is more concentrated. It’s darker in color than your taste buds to sweetness. Adding a little bit to and almonds at fancy dinner parties, and I’ve had baking. It is acidic, which means that it reacts with grade A, rich, and caramel-y, and offers the most certain desserts will give you a sense of sweetness date nut breads and sticky toffee puddings made baking soda; cakes made with molasses will always flavor bang for the buck in baking. Once opened, without having to use sugar. It is strong, so use it with dates. But never did I think of them as such have baking soda in them to release the bubbles maple syrup should be stored in the refrigerator sparingly. I add it to any dessert that has almonds a versatile sweetener in pastries. I use plump soft and lighten the batter. Blackstrap molasses is where it will last about 6 months. If you see mold in it, and I also like it with stone fruit desserts. Medjool dates in my baking; if you don’t have a extremely thick, strong, and bittersweet. It is the on the surface of the syrup, discard the whole The pit of a stone fruit—apricots, peaches, cher- good source for these, you can substitute another by-product of the final stages of refining sugar jar as it may be contaminated. The standard ries, nectarines—has a faintly almond taste if you type of date. Because of the size variations in dif- and it has the most minerals and health benefits substitution if you want to substitute maple syrup crack it open, and the flavor of the almond extract ferent dates, be sure you measure the amount you of all the types of molasses but is also the most for sugar is 1 cup maple for 1 cup sugar and then goes particularly well with these fruits. use in these recipes by volume or weight. Dates pungent. For our purposes, we use a mild molas- decrease the liquid in the recipe by 3 tablespoons have a skin that gets tough and leathery with age. ses that is not blackstrap since its flavor is gentler. per cup substitution. This results in a dessert of 7. Cinnamon and similar spices. When you get Before using them I soak them in some hot water These molasses, such as Grandma’s brand, still equal sweetness as the original. I learned that you a whiff of cinnamon, instantly you can “taste” and a little baking soda, which softens and dis- confer significant nutrients, though they are not can typically halve the amount of sweetness in sweetness in your head.