Macau Is Constantly Reinventing Itself with New Developments and a Burgeoning Arts Scene That Celebrates Both Its Portuguese Legacy and Chinese Heritage
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THE FORMER PORTUGUESE COLONY is a city of paradoxes: crumbling old and shiny new; everything from architecture to food is a blend of East and West in good measure. Macau is constantly reinventing itself with new developments and a burgeoning arts scene that celebrates both its Portuguese legacy and Chinese heritage. The recent opening of the 55-kilometer bridge connecting it to Hong Kong and the mainland has helped grow Macau’s vibrant dining culture even further with MACAU the city’s being better connected. As big new resorts place have brought exciting restaurants with them, and local restaurants continue to make their beloved traditional foods, it’s no wonder 2018 was Macau’s inaugural year as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, and next March Asia’s 50 Best Awards gala returns to Cotai—all of which make it prime time to plan a palate-whetting trip. Guia Lighthouse SEE + DO in St. Lazaro Yes, there's life beyond the blackjack table. We're betting the rich heritage and blossoming arts scene will offer plenty of distractions for the family. In the south, Science Centre (accessible by foot ACE; COURTESY OF Coloane Island (msc.org.mo) or cable car) is a P S has a couple of designed by wonderful quiet T R A nature trails for architect I.M. Pei to spot with a PITARCHASAK O S those wanting to watch the sunset colonial vibe for do a spot of hiking. over the Macau ample photo + Check out the Peninsula. + If opportunities. One IPA VILLAGE A T latest Art Space you’re a selfie just might think (taipavillage fanatic, the Guia you were in UNESCO World macau.com) in Lighthouse Portugal. Heritage Site A-Ma Temple. Macau Tower, left, Taipa Village for seen with Mandarin contemporary Oriental and MGM. Get learning exhibitions. + Or at Macao get your fortune Science Centre. told at the UNESCO World Heritage site A-Ma Temple (São Lourenço, Barra) built in 1488. + Take a dive OWER/ROBERTHARDING/GETTY IMAGES. MAP BY CHOTIKA CHOTIKA BY MAP IMAGES. OWER/ROBERTHARDING/GETTY R T down the world’s N N A I tallest man-made bungee jumping site at the Macau N ew hotels are bringing thousands of rooms and some of the Tower (macau world’s best chefs to Macau, where there’s a renewed spotlight on tower.com.mo) Art Space in the lesser-considered yet vibrant arts and culture scene. then stroll over Taipa Village. to the Macao PETER STUCKINGS/GETTY IMAGES CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MANFRED GOTTSCHALK/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF BY JULIANA LOH CENTRE; SCIENCE MACAO 122 DECEMBER 2018 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / DECEMBER 2018 123 the place gastronomy? Make Michelin options your reservations abound: at two- for French fine stared Jade DRINKS EKAT + DRIN dining at Dragon Mixology, music and vino. Macau gets you bang for your buck with dining options for Robuchon Au (cityofdreams everyone. From Michelin-starred fine dining to local holes-in- Dome, or yum cha macau.com), pre- The on-theme the-wall, there’s plenty to discover and devour. entrance to and haute order the roasted Golden Flower. Cantonese at The meats when you Eight. Both make your “Old Beijing” restaurants are reservation; pan-fried pork dumplings at MACANESE HAUTE located at the Wynn Macau Feng Wei Ju. iconic Grand (wynnmacau.com) Chinese, Southeast Asian and Lusophone fusion. With the hotels full of top chefs, Lisboa has one-starred you’ll practically trip over stars. Ju (starworld A t the new La Famiglia (taipavillagemacau.com), Macanese cuisine (grandlisboa hotels. Wing Lei and two- macau .com/dining) ambassador Florita Alves cooks up complex, authentic flavors.+ Pop com) and boast starred pan- A t the top end of steaks, and Janice serves mouth- into local eatery Riquexo (69 Av. de Sidonio Pais; 853/2856-5655) for excellent wine Chinese Golden the spectrum, the Wong MGM from watering spicy home-style dishes. Order minchi—and say hello to centenarian cook lists that Flower. If you latest talks of the Singapore’s Sichuan and Enjoy the best sundowners at Dame Aida de Jesus. + APOMEC (G/F 49B Av. De Sidonio Pais) down the surprisingly won’t fancy something town are Michelin award-winning Hunanese dishes. Goa Nights (goanights.com)— street is a retirees club that serves up hearty set meals of Macanese break the bank. hot, though, two-starred Mauro pastry chef, both + Some of the best their menu of eclectic dishes for only MOP100. + At Restaurante Litoral + In fact, for Michelin two- Colagreco’s Grill at MGM Cotai Indian food in town cocktails features a mix of (restaurantelitoral-taipa.com) try the African Cantonese, the starred Feng Wei 58, named for the (mgm.mo); and is at the Michelin spices and flavors inspired by chicken, and the city’s best tacho, a winter stew temperature at Michelin three- one-star Golden the Portuguese voyage East in with roasted meats, Chinese sausages and which they cook star Alain Peacock the 15th century. cabbage among a long list of ingredients— Chandni Chowk their perfect Ducasse’s entire Raj Chaat at (venetianmacao. Chef Florita each family has its own unique recipe. Golden Peacock. Alves helms floor of Morpheus com). Here, you’ll La Famiglia. Charcoal-grilled Spanish (cityofdreams find a broad menu prawn with black garlic dressing at Grill 58. macau.com), of northern and composed of a southern Indian classic fine-dining, dishes. But it is a South American– best to head and Asian-inspired over at teatime restaurant, and a for a rich feast bar. + Looking for from the buffet more Michelin spread over a good Executive chef Minchi: minced three-starred cuppa masala chai. Joseph Tse pork with potatoes at The Eight. at La Famiglia. Terra Coffee Happy-hour gin-and-tonics at House. The Ritz Carlton Bar & Lounge T he coffee culture is strong, with several independent (ritzcarlton.com) with a COFFEE cafés serving specialty brews. Get your fix atSingle background of live Bossanova Tromba Rija Origin (fb.com/singleorigincoffee), Commune Table (fb.com/ music is a favorite social habit has a flowing A (2) communaltablecoffee) and Terra Coffee House (fb.com/ with the local expats. I buffet brunch. L Even the dessert PORTUGUESE terracoffee). If you prefer a stronger Portuguese-style cup, at Root feels all natural. Besides darling architecture, the colonial order an espresso at Ou Mun Café (oumuncafe.com) along with legacy left Macau with scrumptious fare. tigelada, a type of Portuguese egg tart, light and fluffy with the consistency of both a canelé and the Malay cake kuih bakar. Antonio (antoniomacau.com) in Taipa village is an Proprietor Fernando is Portuguese and has lived in Macau for more institution. Dinner is a lively affair with the eponymous than a decade; his dish is an adaptation of one from central Portugal, chef wielding a large sabre opening bottles of with less sugar and served with a side of caramel. champagne, over live music and carafes of Portuguese red wine. + A Petisqueira (apetisqueira. com) is a laid-back alternative located in a little blue If you don’t want to join the other tourists Antonio, shophouse serving up favorites such as garlic clams a Portuguese LOCA L SNACKS flocking toLord Stow’s bakery (14 R. do Cunha; institution. and seafood rice. + Brunch lovers will want to hit up lordstow.com) for egg tarts, the alternative on the main street Fernando’s (fernando-restaurant.com) in Coloane, of Taipa Village is San Hou Lei (13–14 R. do Cunha; 853/2882- Duck into the cozy Portuguese which has been a popular spot for decades for long, 7373), a very local confectionery. They are famous for their wine bar-slash-lounge convivial days, or (macautower.com.mo) IFFITHS; COURTESY OF ROOT; COURTESY OF LA FAMIG MacauSoul (macausoul.com), Tromba Rija R bird’s-nest egg tarts, but it’s the Portuguese egg tarts without G at the Macau Tower, which offers a generous the fancy dress that hit the spot. + Wander through Taipa which carries more than 100 IGH Portuguese buffet spread good for families on Sunday E different labels from L Village’s Cunha Street and taste your way through different afternoons. + For creative modern-European cuisine, Lord Stow’s famous textures and flavors—from agar-agar jellies made of tropical Portuguese wine producers, check out Root (rootmacau.com) by locavore chef egg tarts can be fruits at the decades-old Mok Yi Kei (9 R. do Cunha) to traditional, just a stone’s throw away from found in Taipa. Anthony Sousa Tam, who grows most of his powdery almond cookies from Koi Kei bakery (11–13 R. do Cunha; UNESCO site St. Paul’s Ruins. vegetables with hydroponics. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF FENG WEI JU; LEIGH GRIFFITHS;COURTESY OF MACAU COURTESY SOUL; OF LEIGH RITZ GRIFFITHS; CARLTON; COURTESY TERRA OF COURTESY COFFEE HOUSE EIGHT; OF GOLDEN PEACOCK; COURTESY OF THE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: RUSSELL MACMASTER; COURTESYTROMBA OF GRILL RIJA; 58; COURTESY OF koikei.com) and the ubiquitous, thin slices of sweet barbecue pork. 124 DECEMBER 2018 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / DECEMBER 2018 125 the place Morpheus, a new architectural wonder in Cotai. MGM has an East-meets-West aesthetic. connected by a sky bridge, and industrial mastery. The 1,200- 770 rooms and villas, the seat theater hosts many latter of which begin at 582 international acts, and kids’ WHEA RE TO ST Y square meters. Dining options activities. parisianmacao.com; Our favorites among the slew of shiny new (and are top notch: besides the doubles from HK$1,300. improved) hotels that have elevated the city skyline.