The former Portuguese colony is a city of paradoxes: crumbling old and shiny new; everything from architecture to food is a blend of East and West in good measure. Macau is constantly reinventing itself with new developments and a burgeoning arts scene that celebrates both its Portuguese legacy and Chinese heritage. The recent opening of the 55-kilometer bridge connecting it to Hong Kong and the mainland has helped grow Macau’s vibrant dining culture even further with Macau the city’s being better connected. As big new resorts place have brought exciting restaurants with them, and local restaurants continue to make their beloved traditional foods, it’s no wonder 2018 was Macau’s inaugural year as a unesco Creative City of Gastronomy, and next March Asia’s 50 Best Awards gala returns to Cotai—all of which make it prime time to plan a palate-whetting trip.
Guia Lighthouse See + Do in St. Lazaro Yes, there's life beyond the blackjack table. We're betting the rich heritage and blossoming arts scene will offer plenty of distractions for the family.
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gastronomy? Make Michelin options your reservations abound: at two- for French fine stared Jade DRINKS EKAT + DRiN dining at Dragon Mixology, music and vino. Macau gets you bang for your buck with dining options for Robuchon Au (cityofdreams everyone. From Michelin-starred fine dining to local holes-in- Dome, or yum cha macau.com), pre- The on-theme the-wall, there’s plenty to discover and devour. entrance to and haute order the roasted Golden Flower. Cantonese at The meats when you Eight. Both make your “Old Beijing” restaurants are reservation; pan-fried pork dumplings at Macanese Haute located at the Wynn Macau Feng Wei Ju. iconic Grand (wynnmacau.com) Chinese, Southeast Asian and Lusophone fusion. With the hotels full of top chefs, Lisboa has one-starred you’ll practically trip over stars. Ju (starworld A t the new La Famiglia (taipavillagemacau.com), Macanese cuisine (grandlisboahotels. Wing Lei and two- macau.com/dining) ambassador Florita Alves cooks up complex, authentic flavors.+ Pop com) and boast starred pan- A t the top end of steaks, and Janice serves mouth- into local eatery Riquexo (69 Av. de Sidonio Pais; 853/2856-5655) for excellent wine Chinese Golden the spectrum, the Wong MGM from watering spicy home-style dishes. Order minchi—and say hello to centenarian cook lists that Flower. If you latest talks of the Singapore’s Sichuan and Enjoy the best sundowners at Dame Aida de Jesus. + APOMEC (G/F 49B Av. De Sidonio Pais) down the surprisingly won’t fancy something town are Michelin award-winning Hunanese dishes. Goa Nights (goanights.com)— street is a retirees club that serves up hearty set meals of Macanese break the bank. hot, though, two-starred Mauro pastry chef, both + Some of the best their menu of eclectic dishes for only MOP100. + At Restaurante Litoral + In fact, for Michelin two- Colagreco’s Grill at MGM Cotai Indian food in town cocktails features a mix of (restaurantelitoral-taipa.com) try the African Cantonese, the starred Feng Wei 58, named for the (mgm.mo); and is at the Michelin spices and flavors inspired by chicken, and the city’s best tacho, a winter stew temperature at Michelin three- one-star Golden the Portuguese voyage East in with roasted meats, Chinese sausages and which they cook star Alain Peacock the 15th century. cabbage among a long list of ingredients— Chandni Chowk their perfect Ducasse’s entire Raj Chaat at (venetianmacao. Chef Florita each family has its own unique recipe. Golden Peacock. Alves helms floor ofM orpheus com). Here, you’ll La Famiglia. Charcoal-grilled Spanish (cityofdreams find a broad menu prawn with black garlic dressing at Grill 58. macau.com), of northern and composed of a southern Indian classic fine-dining, dishes. But it is a South American– best to head and Asian-inspired over at teatime restaurant, and a for a rich feast bar. + Looking for from the buffet more Michelin spread over a good Executive chef Minchi: minced three-starred cuppa masala chai. Joseph Tse pork with potatoes at The Eight. at La Famiglia.
Terra Coffee Happy-hour gin-and-tonics at House. The Ritz Carlton Bar & Lounge T he coffee culture is strong, with several independent (ritzcarlton.com) with a COFFEE cafés serving specialty brews. Get your fix atSingle background of live Bossanova Tromba Rija Origin (fb.com/singleorigincoffee), Commune Table (fb.com/ music is a favorite social habit has a flowing
a (2) communaltablecoffee) and Terra Coffee House (fb.com/ with the local expats. i
buffet brunch. L Even the dessert Portuguese terracoffee). If you prefer a stronger Portuguese-style cup, at Root feels all natural. Besides darling architecture, the colonial order an espresso at Ou Mun Café (oumuncafe.com) along with legacy left Macau with scrumptious fare. tigelada, a type of Portuguese egg tart, light and fluffy with the consistency of both a canelé and the Malay cake kuih bakar. Antonio (antoniomacau.com) in Taipa village is an Proprietor Fernando is Portuguese and has lived in Macau for more institution. Dinner is a lively affair with the eponymous than a decade; his dish is an adaptation of one from central Portugal, chef wielding a large sabre opening bottles of with less sugar and served with a side of caramel. champagne, over live music and carafes of Portuguese red wine. + A Petisqueira (apetisqueira. com) is a laid-back alternative located in a little blue If you don’t want to join the other tourists Antonio, shophouse serving up favorites such as garlic clams a Portuguese Loca l Snacks flocking toLord Stow’s bakery (14 R. do Cunha; institution. and seafood rice. + Brunch lovers will want to hit up lordstow.com) for egg tarts, the alternative on the main street Fernando’s (fernando-restaurant.com) in Coloane, of Taipa Village is San Hou Lei (13–14 R. do Cunha; 853/2882- Duck into the cozy Portuguese which has been a popular spot for decades for long, 7373), a very local confectionery. They are famous for their wine bar-slash-lounge
convivial days, or (macautower.com.mo) iffiths; courtesy of root; courtesy of la famig MacauSoul (macausoul.com), Tromba Rija r bird’s-nest egg tarts, but it’s the Portuguese egg tarts without G at the Macau Tower, which offers a generous the fancy dress that hit the spot. + Wander through Taipa which carries more than 100 igh
Portuguese buffet spread good for families on Sunday e different labels from
L Village’s Cunha Street and taste your way through different afternoons. + For creative modern-European cuisine, Lord Stow’s famous textures and flavors—from agar-agar jellies made of tropical Portuguese wine producers, check out Root (rootmacau.com) by locavore chef egg tarts can be fruits at the decades-old Mok Yi Kei (9 R. do Cunha) to traditional, just a stone’s throw away from found in Taipa. Anthony Sousa Tam, who grows most of his powdery almond cookies from Koi Kei bakery (11–13 R. do Cunha; unesco site St. Paul’s Ruins. vegetables with hydroponics. clockwise from top: courtesy of feng wei ju; leigh griffiths;courtesy of macau courtesy soul; leigh of ritz griffiths; carlton; courtesy terra of courtesy coffee house eight; of golden peacock; courtesy of the clockwise from top: russell macmaster; courtesytromba of grill rija; 58; courtesy of koikei.com) and the ubiquitous, thin slices of sweet barbecue pork.
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on the the on showcases the design of of design the showcases that afootbridge by hotel popping 3,000 rooms. rooms. 3,000 popping eye- an and interiors world old- opulent with red, and T inspired holds Paris, in original the of size aTouris d’Eiffel M S Parisian The HK$3,000. from doubles cityofdreams dining. in-room for as well as breakfast at exclusively served are creations and his maestro, patisserie the from spread extensive Hermé Pierre A the besides notch: top are meters. square 582 at begin which of latter the villas, and rooms 770 and bridge, asky by connected at The Parisian. The at h a l an Tower Eiffel a Morpheus, a new Look down on ain ain wonder in Cotai. nds nds e mini- cao is decked out in gold gold in out decked is cao architectural D L R C u a e o C casse floor, there’s a there’s floor, casse C T sorts’ latest project project latest sorts’ tai tai h o h inese restaurant. wer is linked to the the to linked is wer ine, aFrench- ine, S macau.com; macau.com; t L rip, rip, o D that, half the the half that, unge with an an with unge i ning options options ning T h e Parisian e Parisian O u East-meets-West tside tside MGM has an has MGM aesthetic. doubles from HK$1,700. from doubles pools. wynnpalace.com; private course, of and, sheets Frette count 800-thread V and the three-bedroom Garden everything; control to panel touchscreen intuitive an has suites and rooms 1,706 the of diamond-and-gold facial. as a such royalty, for fit treatments offers spa massive psychedelic Tulips Koons’s Jeff and vases either; check out the rare rare the out check either; shabby too not is collection art eclectic their art, floral largest to Home spectacle. fountain their of view best the offering cars cable with lined S the on Palace Wynn Wynn Palace HK$1,300. from doubles activities. parisianmacao.com; kids’ and acts, international many hosts theater seat industrial mastery. mastery. industrial t i llas have 24-hour butlers, butlers, 24-hour have llas rip has a glorious façade façade aglorious has rip . T T M C h h a o e e 1,200- cau’s cau’s tai tai >> E M a i ng ng ch
clockwise from top left: courtesy of morpheus; leigh griffiths; courtesy of the parisian; courtesy of mandarin oriental the place
Sardines at Lojas Das Conservas. Whe O re to SH P Pick up local design items and traditional snacks as take-home gifts with a difference.
Eschew the tacky casino-chip keychain souvenirs, and instead head over to Mercearia Portuguesa (merceariaportuguesa.com) at Albergue 1601 for beautifully packaged traditional Portuguese soaps and artisanal food items from jars of jam to traditional sweets. + Lojas Das Conservas (9 Tv. do Aterro Novo; 853/6571-8214) has floor-to- ceiling shelves of every type of sardine can you can think of in psychedelic packaging. + Shop Macau’s local creative designs at the MOD Design Store Colorful delights (Largo da Companhia de Jesus, by St. Paul’s Ruins), at Mercearia Portuguesa. which carries kooky items, including T-shirts, mugs and umbrellas.
IDSNSI ER ’ tips s; courtesy of anthony sousa tam; a v
Miguel de Senna Fernandes Rebecca Glade oAntH ny Sousa tam l aw y er a nd pl ay w r igh t ; pr e siden t pr e siden t of t he international m aca ne se chef a nd ow ner of t he m aca ne se association l a die s club m acao of root r e s taur a n t Every year for the last 25 years, I write What many don’t know is the Macallan T he pork bun and egg tart are very well and produce a Patua play for the Macau Whiskey Bar at the Galaxy (galaxymacau. known foods in Macau, however there are Arts Festival in May as an ongoing effort com) makes a mean margarita, in addition plenty of local dishes that aren’t on the to preserve Patua, our Macanese dialect. to their whiskey collection. A great place tourist map. I love spicy beef noodles from The Macau History Museum and for brunch in Macau is Aurora at Altira Taipa Tip Kei Sopa Fritas (Av. de Kwong Maritime Museum are comprehensive (altiramacau.com): great seafood and they Tung 130, Edf. Nam San Block 6 r/c), and in places to get local history. The Civic and keep your bubbles filled. Don’t leave winter I like to have a warm almond Municipal Bureau showcases artifacts before stopping by Quarter Square (89 dessert at Tin Heung Yun (5 R. Tres do dating to the 14th century. The best spot Largo Maia de Magalhaes, Taipa Village; Bairro da Areia Preta) in the backstreets of to capture Macau is behind the Ruins of St. quartersquare.co) for a good cuppa; it’s a Barra. We often get dim sum with the kids Paul by the 15th century Na Tcha Temple, neat little concept shop with well-curated at Lua Azul (macautower.com.mo). On my where you get an amazing view of old and home décor items. After shopping, head days off, we go regularly to Vencedora new, with Grand Lisboa in the skyline. up to the rooftop for a lovely view of Taipa (R. do Campo, 264R. Edf. Pak Nin Son) Taipa Village is fantastic for colonial and say hello to the resident French a Portuguese restaurant I have been
Portuguese architecture and shophouses. bulldog, Copper, on your way out. going to since I was a toddler. clockwise from top left: courtesy of mercearia fernandes senna de portuguesa; miguel glade; rebecca of courtesy of courtesy courtesy of lojas das conser
128 december 2018 / travelandleisureasia.com