COSMETIC NEWS WEEKLY

No 604 / June 16 2014 www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Crowdfunding to bring in business

rowdfunding company Kickstarter the Swiss Alps, which would also appeal to INSIDE THIS ISSUE this month changed its rules to many. The product is now in production. Callow bath and beauty products UK hair care brand Concoction is also BUSINESS and a range of other projects to access its using Indiegogo to crowdfund for further Givaudan has put the finishing platform. While other crowdfunders have development, while beauty and jewellery touches to buying up Soliance long been open to cosmetics, Kickstarter startup Obo kicked off on the site in May to page 3 remained a hard one to access. And raise funds for its fragrance business. So far though it has opened the door for many, it has raised over u20,000. ASIA FOCUS for some, it may still be restricted. Kickstarter has developed a Creator Kosé outlines its approach to Among the projects still prohibited are: Handbook to help startups avoid the its growing business in China “Any item claiming to cure, treat, or prevent pitfalls that cause businesses to fail. It page 4 an illness or condition (whether via a includes a number of tips for creating a device, app, book, nutritional supplement, successful campaign. They include having a INTERVIEW or other means).” Whether this will exclude, realistic budget for the project on the Mark Buxton, perfumer, for example, skin care products that claim campaign page – the minimum amount Nose / Mark Buxton Perfumes to treat dry skin, ageing and other needed to complete the project and fulfill page 5 conditions remains to be seen. any promised rewards. Ideally, the project Crowdfunding is increasingly being used should be no more than 60 days; SUPPLIERS by startups to help bring their brand to Kickstarter said the most successful Perfume can make a woman’s market. Kickstarter says its service has so projects on its platform tend to be those face more attractive far seen more than US$1bn pledged to that are 30 days and less. Fundseekers page 7 projects and the relaxation in its rules need to tap into core networks – although should bring in even more. the platform will introduce a brand to new RETAIL But not all crowdfunding campaigns are audiences, most support is likely to come Cocokara Fine opens China successful. The vast majority fail to reach from those who are already familiar with the chain and details expansion their goal, whether because their strategy work. Individual follow-ups and updates on page 8 was inadequate or they neglected to reaching successful milestones are also key. include key details in their pitch. It is all common sense but there are PRODUCT One campaign that did work was that of many out there with great ideas but no Oceanyx explores the sea to Swiss-Indian cosmetics collaboration practical business sense. And they are likely launch anti-age serums Abhati Suisse. It raised over $25,000 to fail. Crowdfunding platforms are opening page 9 between October and December 2013 on up opportunities to a wide range of Indiegogo with its handwash product interesting brands that may never have SPOTLIGHT launch ‘One Hand Washes the Other’. It seen the light of day trying to make it in the High-quality personal care had a strong campaign, tying its product in cosmetics world through traditional routes. products still vital in Venezuela with its hygiene and health project in . But to make it successful in the short and page 12 The product itself was based on natural long run, the strategy needs to be sharp. ingredients from the Indian Himalayas and Kathleen Armstrong

1 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com People

Ulta Beauty has announced that industry, encompassing new product CosmeticNews Weekly Vanessa Wittman, Senior Vice President development and marketing for finished and Chief Financial Officer of Motorola formulations and raw materials, technical HPCi Media Limited Mobility, a subsidiary of Google, has been support and business and account Unit 1, Vogans Mill Wharf, 17 Mill Street, London SE1 2BZ, UK appointed to its Board of Directors and as management for sales and marketing. +44 20 7193 1279 a member of its Audit Committee. Wittman [email protected] brings with her more than 25 years’ The International Confederation of Acting Editor experience in finance and technology. Plastics Packaging Manufacturers Kathleen Armstrong Mary Dillon, Ulta Beauty’s Chief (ICPP ) has elected Jerry Geyer from Greif +44 20 7193 8184 Executive Officer, said: “We are delighted Inc (US) as President for a four-year term. [email protected] Reporter to welcome Vanessa to Ulta Beauty’s He follows Benoît Cheval from Georgia Seago Board of Directors. Her experience as a Sotralentz Packaging (France) who had +44 20 7617 7114 Chief Financial Officer and as a Board completed his term as President. Vice [email protected] member for several public companies will Presidents Chris Lind (Mauser Corp/US) Layout Sub-editor Ross Murdoch bring valuable insights to our company and Dave Tatz (Megapack/South Africa) [email protected] on a broad range of topics, including were re-elected for another four years. finance, strategy, technology and Correspondents: corporate governance.” Levi Moriarty has joined L’Occitane Argentina Muireann Prendergast Australia & New Zealand Sarah de Castro Group as Communications Assistant. Brazil Sueli Ortega Tristan Farabet has joined Groupe Previously at Tom Ford Beauty, Moriarty Canada Marjo Johne Pochet as Managing Director as well as will be working on the Melvita brand, as China Keith Crane France Patricia Mansfield-Devine joining the company’s Board of Directors. well as new brand Le Couvent des Germany Annie Kruse Prior to joining, Farabet was CEO of Coca Minimes, launching this autumn. In India Chitra Gopalak Cola Entreprise France. addition, Sophie Oliver, previously PR Italy Corinne Blanché Japan David Kilburn “I was attracted by Groupe Pochet Manager, has been promoted to Group PR Russia Eugene Gerden because its family culture, deeply humane & Communications Manager; while South Africa Bambina Wise and at the boundary between art and Shimon Kalichman is now Director of Spain Lola Gavarrón UK Imogen Matthews industry, resonates with my values,” Marketing & Communications. US - East Coast Laura Klepacki Farabet commented. He began in the US - West Coast Kavita Daswani position on 1 May. To celebrate UK retailer John Lewis’ Travel Retail Ke vin Rozario 150th anniversary – and raise money for US Sales Manager L’Oréal USA has named Marie Gulin as domestic violence charity Refuge – six Spy Suzi Richardson Chief Marketing Officer, replacing Marc Gals from Benefit Cosmetics UK & IRE, +1 305 461 0861 [email protected] Speichert who left the company last John Lewis and Refuge abseiled down the Managing Director month to join Google. Gulin has over 15 Oxford Street store. The Spy Gals from Colin Bailey-Wood years’ experience in communications and Benefit were General Manager Gail +44 20 7193 6066 [email protected] digital marketing management, most Bojarski, Sales Director Sarah Harbon Chairman recently as Global Head of Integrated and Head Make-up & Trend Artist Lisa Michael Harrington Marketing Communications for L’Oréal Potter Dixon. They were joined by John +44 20 7193 1092 Paris. Lewis Head of Buying – Women’s mike [email protected] www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Accessories & Beauty Amanda Scott, Skin care brand Gazelli has appointed Refuge Director of Communications and Subscriptions +44 20 7193 1279 Tina Surelia as Sourcing Coordinator. Fundraising Lisa King and blogger/DJ [email protected] She will be working alongside the @zoelondondj. one year subscription: US$1,585/a1,250/£990 two year subscription: US$2,800/a2,250/£1,780 Marketing Department and Creative Director to develop Gazelli’s Retail, BRAND AMBASSADORS Professional and Lifestyle Ranges. CosmeticNews Weekly Hair colour removal brand ColourB4 has CosmeticNews Weekly no604 16 June 2014 Micronised wax additives company Micro appointed British entrepreneur and

Articles published in this newsletter may only be reproduced with Powders has hired Diana Smith as Sales former model Katie Price as its first permission. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any statements made in signed contributions or in those reproduced Manager for its Personal Care Division Global Ambassador. “Over the years Katie from any other source. ISSN 1953-0633 based out of Tarrytown, NY. Smith will be Price has proved to be the ultimate ‘style HPCi responsible for the northeast and chameleon’, changing overnight from media southern territories in the US, as well as ‘raven haired sultry siren’ to ‘blonde boho Canada and Asia. Smith has around 34 beach babe’, and it is all thanks to years’ experience in the cosmetics ColourB4,” the company said.

2 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Business

Avon calling on a new owner? Avon investors have reason to rue Coty’s buy-out US$24.75 offer of 2012. Currently Obo kicks off with Indiegogo Avon shares have sunk more than 35% in the last year alone and are now worth ew startup beauty jewellery company, Obo, is using crowdfunding site around $14.68 (before going to press). Indiegogo to raise funds for its fragrance business. The firm is the brainchild The company is still in the midst a turn- Nof designer Julien Cohen and is a subsidiary of Aesthete, the agency founded around strategy while cleaning up the mess by fragrance bottle designer Thierry Baschmakoff. Its product is fine fragrance ‘pearls’ – and a $500m legal bill – from Chinese that fit into jewellery such as a watch or a pendant, an idea the firm bills as “the bribery allegations. But its stuttering smallest perfume bottle in the world” and it is launching with eight fragrances progress – last month Avon share price created by Anne-Sophie Behaghel and Amélie Bourgeois of Flair and is now looking slipped to its lowest point, $13.30, in for funds on Indiegogo. almost 15 years – means that the Avon Each pearl – there will be a different colour for each fragrance – works as a board must be increasingly open for a sale. miniature roll-on bottle. It contains 3ml of perfume, enough for around 25 Despite the recent historical applications, and the pearls can be bought separately from the jewellery to which animosity between the two companies, they attach. The bracelets are currently only available in black and white. Coty is now selling product via Avon’s The pearls, which are made of glass and stainless steel and which are attached to Brazil operational lines. Coty could still the jewellery magnetically, cannot be refilled but all the materials are recyclable: the return with an offer, as could a private firm recommends that users just separate the cabochon top from the conical base. equity buyer, taking the company away All the materials are also hypoallergenic. Prices are u75 for a bracelet with three from the pressures of a listing and getting pearls, u60 for a pendant with three pearls or u8 for an individual pearl. Obo products on the job of turning the company are available on pre-order until 1 July on Indiegogo and will later be sold on the firm’s around, in relative privacy. website at oboparis.com plus selected outlets. “A sale is going to have to be their Patricia Mansfield-Devine, Rennes next choice,” B. Riley analyst Linda Bolton Weiser was quoted as saying recently. Tupperware is also thought to be a Givaudan purchases Soliance potential buyer. However Avon remains a huge company and integration issues ivaudan has put the finishing touches to buying up fragrance player Soliance in abound for any purchaser. an effort to bolster its cosmetics R&D. The deal had been mooted for some Gtime but the final purchase – the deal terms are unknown – of the active Two-year low for Prada shares ingredients operator would have added u20m to Givaudan’s overall 2013 numbers. Is the world’s love affair with Prada over? “Soliance represents Givaudan’s first acquisition since that of Quest, Givaudan boss Glancing at Prada’s latest Q1 results, Gilles Andrier said. “Its current portfolio of active cosmetic ingredients and strong there’s a certain lack of connection process development and research capabilities fit well into the five strategic pillars of between buyer and seller: sales actually Givaudan.” fell in the last quarter, down 0.6% to Nestlé recently sold off its 10% stake in the Swiss fragrance and flavours company – u777.7m, some distance from the u813m also a supplier to Nestlé – in a move that was also designed to prevent Givaudan from figure expected by Wall Street. Strip out being taken over. Meanwhile Nestlé has confirmed it’s moving into medical skin the exchange rate vagaries and Prada treatments, buying up the rights to Emervel, Dysport and Restylane as well as Sculptra, sales climbed 3.8%. The high-end luxury an anti-wrinkle treatment, from Valeant Pharmaceuticals International. Nestlé’s earlier player’s numbers will cause nervousness Galderma purchase now positions it firmly as a skin care/health player. from other players (though LVMH recently Adrian Holliday, London announced better-than-expected results). Prada relies on the Far East for around a third of its sales. But Asian sales spiralling to HK$53.70; before going to fluids and specialty fluids for a range of climbed under 4% compared with almost press they had recovered to HK$54.70. industries including the cosmetics industry. 15% in 2013; European sales were flat for “For Brenntag Europe this cooperation the last quarter. Wholesale revenues for Brenntag to take over Bluestar is a huge step towards offering our customers the Hong Kong-listed company Silicone distribution in Europe pan-European solutions benefiting from plummeted, down 25%. One bright spot Germany based chemical distributor our European network and technical though was Japan where retail sales Brenntag has announced that it will take expertise,” said Karsten Beckmann, CEO of climbed 17%, helped by a stronger over the pan-European distribution of Brenntag Europe, Middle East and Africa. economy and the threat of a new silicone products from Bluestar Silicones “With its experience of more than 60 years nationwide sales tax. from 1 July. The distribution agreement in the field of producing silicones Bluestar The glut of bad news sent Prada shares includes the sales and marketing of core Silicones is the ideal partner for us as we

3 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Business

agreed to resolve all disputes and have dismissed the litigation, the company said. ASIA FOCUS “The settlement of the trademark litigation allows the company to continue Kosé reveals strategy for China moving forward with the growth of Kardashian Beauty,” said John LaBonty, the apanese cosmetics giant Kosé has outlined its approach to its growing cosmetics Chief Executive Officer and President of business in China. According to Masanori Kobayashi, the Kosé board member over- Boldface. “We are pleased that this matter Jseeing international operations, the company’s China operations are profitable has been resolved.” now that the company has scaled back business at poorly performing department stores while developing business at specialty cosmetics retailers. Surging internet sales Brazil passes animal testing bill and TV-based direct marketing are also helping the profitable growth of business. Brazil’s Chamber of Deputies has passed a According to Kobayashi, Kosé’s sales in China increased 50% in 2013. Low-priced skin bill which drastically curbs the use of animals care products that retail for the equivalent of less than ¥2,000, such as Nature & Co, for cosmetic testing. Bill 6602/13 will come Recipeo and Junkisei, are proving popular with Chinese women in their 20s and 30s into force in September and will ban the across the mainland. use of animals in tests for cosmetics in To deal with intensifying competition, Kosé is considering developing products Brazil where alternatives have already been exclusively for direct sales. Chinese consumers are more receptive to internet mar- established and approved internationally. keting than their Japanese counterparts, according to Kobayashi. Accordingly, the Animal testing will still be allowed for novel company wants to develop a business model for China in which online marketing ingredients developed for use in cosmetics. coexists with store based retailing, possibly selling flagship brands at stores and less Organisations such as Cruelty Free expensive products online. The company plans to increase sales per store and International and Humane Society expects significant growth in sales through direct channels. International have been campaigning on the David Kilburn, Tokyo ban for the past year and have welcomed the Bill, which was negotiated by Deputado Ricardo Izar, President of the Parliamentary Swallowfield to export to China Front in Defence of Animals. Cruelty Free International Brazil ritish personal care and beauty product manufacturer Swallowfield has secured Campaign Manager, Frank Alarcon, said: a contract with Shanghai based Jahwa United for the production and supply of “We are delighted that Brazil has taken this Bsix products to China, including a shave gel and a post foaming shower gel in five great stride forward. Now the task is to varieties. Swallowfield began working with Jahwa around nine years ago, developing work with industry and regulators to ensure personal care products for the UK and European markets. This contract opens it up to that Brazilian cosmetics become complete- the lucrative Chinese market. ly cruelty-free at the earliest possible date.” “We are very proud to have commenced manufacturing product for the Chinese Humane Society International’s Be market, having overcome a number of regulatory hurdles to put the arrangement in Cruelty-Free Brazil’s Antoniana Ottoni place,” said Jamie Bachelor, International Operations Director for Swallowfield. added: “We are thrilled that Brazil is joining The company has spent the last two years identifying opportunities in the rapidly the ranks of the European Union, Norway, expanding Chinese economy, in order to take advantage of the growing spending Israel and India in ending the practice. power of its burgeoning middle class and their demand for high quality products. However, as it is currently worded there are some unfortunate loopholes in the Bill that must be closed. Experts are working with will be able to offer our customers a large trademark litigation over its Kardashian the Senate and all parties involved to help range of innovative products.” Beauty brand has been resolved. The improve Brazil’s Bill and bring it closer to Pascal Chalvon-Demersay, CEO of litigation was over the name of the debut what Brazilians want to see: a completely Bluestar Silicones, added: “By partnering cosmetics line from Kim, Kourtney and cruelty-free cosmetics future for Brazil.” with Brenntag, the global market leader in Khloé Kardashian which until last year was chemical distribution, we have the unique branded as Khroma Beauty. Boldface was Fashion drives prestige nail trends opportunity to reach new customers who hit with an injunction barring it from using The prestige nail polish market in the UK is trust in the quality of service of Brenntag the Khroma name on the grounds that the driven by fashion brands, according to with our high performance products and Khroma line was likely to cause confusion global information company NPD Group. extra capacity.” with the Florida based Kroma cosmetics Fashion brands influence colours in the brand’s previously registered trademark. mass market through the colours in their Boldface litigation resolved Boldface Group, Boldface Licensing + seasonal collections. In 2013 the top ten Celebrity beauty licensing company Branding, By Lee Tillett and the other colours in the prestige beauty market were: Boldface Group has announced that the parties to the trademark litigation, have reddish black, shimmering purple, reddish

4 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Business

brown, vivid red, blood red, metallic teal, creamy taupe, fire engine red, coral and INTERVIEW hot pink. Sales of prestige nail polish rose 1.4% Mark Buxton, perfumer, Nose / Mark Buxton Perfumes in 2013 to £10.1m, making up around 1.9% of the prestige make-up market. In 2012, sales of prestige nail polish showed Creating the scent of surprise 17.3% growth on the same period in 2011. erfumer Mark Buxton was born in the UK, grew up in Germany and lives in Paris. Unit sales of nail polish grew by 14% He established his name creating fragrance for brands such as Givenchy, in 2012 and continued to increase – but PVersace and others. He is also known for creating the first Comme des Garçons by a smaller margin of 5.4% in 2013. The fragrance. In 2012, he co-founded the niche fragrance diagnostic project Nose. He total number of prestige nail polishes also established his own fragrance businesses: Mark Buxton Perfumes and Perfarium. sold in the UK in 2013 was 767,044. The perfumer talks to Cosmetic News Weekly about his experience in fragrance. “Prestige nail brands have raised the bar for trend-led high-fashion nail polish How did you get started in perfumery? in the last five years,” said June Jensen, After I finished school, over 30 years ago, a friend and I wrote to the programme Director for The NPD Group Beauty UK. Wetten, dass..? [Want to bet?] with a bet that we could recognise all the perfumes in “The continued growth of this sector the world. We lost the bet, although I did quite well. After that I got a call from demonstrates the importance of nail Haarmann & Reimer [now Symrise] who invited me to join the company and they polish to the prestige beauty market.” trained me as a perfumer. Three years later, they sent me to Paris and I stayed.

Takasago and Amyris to take What is the philosophy behind Nose? forward novel fragrance products The idea came up three years ago after I left Symrise. I had started Mark Buxton Takasago, a manufacturer of flavours and Perfumes and Perfarium and then I met Nicolas Cloutier and he presented me with fragrances for consumer products, and the idea for Nose. It was a first, a really different idea, to find a fragrance through a renewable products company Amyris have diagnostic process. Nose opened two years ago on 18 June. It is based on the idea announced the start of the next phase of that you can find the right perfume for someone by asking five questions. Then we their relationship to commercialise show them five fragrances. We have done over 40,000 diagnostics in two years. farnesene-derived fragrance molecules. Now similar concepts are popping up all over the place. “These new products will address customer demand resulting from the What is the key to a successful fragrance? regulatory phase out of certain existing A fragrance has to be different; it has to stand out – give you a sense of surprise fragrance ingredients and will be some of when you smell it. There has been an enormous boom in the niche market recently the newest and most valuable fragrance but they have to be careful they don’t start copying each other. The focus should ingredients on Takasago’s palette,” said be on quality and originality. Masayuki Mita, Senior Vice President of the Fragrance and Aroma Chemical How do you go about creating a perfume? Division at Takasago. “We intend to I was among the last perfumers who worked directly with ingredients. Now it’s all introduce these aroma ingredients to the done at the touch of a computer. I have a scrapbook with 80-100 accords. My own global fragrance market in 2015.” fragrances are all based around a personal event in my life. If I work with a brand, I adapt to them – but the people who approach me know my handwriting, so we talk Cosmewax produces own brand about what will work for their image. For individuals, I put together a picture of Spanish depilatory and cosmetic product them: what they like to eat, how they spend their time, etc. Individuals are often manufacturer Cosmewax has begun the very surprised by the fragrance that’s created for them. manufacture its own brand, Belecos. The initial consumer launch will include a Cold What was the process for the film Grand Budapest Hotel’s fragrance? Wax Strips Kit, a Warm Wax Roll-on and a Nose often gets approached by people who want us to create a concept for them Professional Wax. It will later be expanded but it’s not what we do. However, we made an exception for L’Air de Panache. We to include dry shampoo and a range of had 3.5 days to create the fragrance for the film and once Wes Anderson accepted face care and foot care products. The it, we had six weeks to develop the packaging and bottle. Only 1,000 bottles were company said the brand will bring together produced, of which we received 100 – although we are not allowed to sell them. its experience in manufacturing products As Mark Buxton Perfumes, I also created the perfume for Soho House Hotel’s for others. “Now is the time for Cosmewax showing of Mood Indigo from Michel Gondry. The fragrance was released at certain to present its products, its capacity for moments to capture the feeling of the film. It’s a new branch of work for me. innovation and its potential, through its Kathleen Armstrong, London own commercial brand,” it added.

5 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Suppliers

PACKAGING Quadpack’s floral themed glass completed the acquisition of Pretium perfumery range blossoms Packaging, a US based manufacturer of Innovative packaging for Iris, Lily, Orchid and Bouquet are the floral rigid plastic bottles and containers. Cornerstone grooming launch themed bottles of cosmetic packaging Pretium provides customised solutions to Men’s subscription grooming brand provider Quadpack’s new glass perfumery a range of sectors, including personal Cornerstone has unveiled its new range. Inspired by flowers, the new line care and private label. packaging, created by The Alexir offers a range of shapes, sizes and David Golde, who leads Genstar’s Partnership and Path Designs, as the options, with each bottle appealing to a packaging-related investing efforts, com- brand prepares for its debut on the UK particular demographic. mented: “Our investment in Pretium is grooming market. Iris has a strong, square profile, while the result of a multi-year effort to find a Cornerstone currently sells its range of Lily takes a cylindrical shape, Orchid is packaging company that fits Genstar’s razor and collection of men’s shaving spherical and Bouquet is rectangular. investment criteria, and Pretium builds products via the internet. This meant the The bottles come in 30ml, 50ml and upon the firm’s investing efforts in the packaging had to be able to withstand 100ml sizes, with a choice of collars and industrial technology vertical. the conditions of the postal system, but pumps. The caps can be made of plastic, “We look forward to providing the the company also wanted it to deliver a Surlyn, aluminium or, for natural touch, Pretium leadership team with capital and unique, eye-catching experience. PEFC-certified wood, from Technotraf resources to accelerate the company’s A carton was developed that was Wood Packaging. growth, both organically and via strategic structurally sound and could present the A range of decoration options to create acquisitions.” products to the customer with the different looks are also offered, including Cornerstone branding at equal height from frosting, spray coating, silk screening INGREDIENTS the bottom of each product. The inclusion and hot stamping. of an innovative locking mechanism means Kalama comes up smelling the box can be reassembled to make it Pretium Packaging snapped up sweet with innovative agent easy for customers to carry. Private equity firm Genstar Capital has US chemicals manufacturer Emerald

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6 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Suppliers

Kalama Chemical is launching Kalama methyl benzoate for use as a perfuming agent. “Adding a refined methyl benzoate product to our line of Kalama aroma Cosmetic chemicals to climb chemicals was a logical step for the he US cosmetic chemicals market is set to boom, according to global market business,” said Peter Fielder, the firm’s analyst TechSi Research. It says the market will be driven by an increasing VP. “We have widened the scope of our T Hispanic population, ageing baby boomers and rising demand for luxury product line for formulators looking to personal care brands. add the right notes to their personal In its new report, United States Cosmetic Chemicals Market Forecast & Opportunities, 2019, care application.” TechSi forecast that revenues will increase by a CAGR of around 2.7% from 2014 to In order to produce its new range of 2019, with surfactants and conditioning polymers accounting for the majority of the actives, the firm recently underwent a market, due to high demand in the hair care sector. multi-million dollar expansion of its The growing baby boomer population in the US is boosting the consumption of mul- production facilities, which will increase tifunctional high-performance products, the firm said, which is driving the market for production by 50%. actives, and companies such as L’Oréal and Estée Lauder are capitalising on the trend by Methyl benzoate has a sweet, heady developing high-quality, premium products to meet demand. Other key players that it floral odour similar to that of tropical cites in the cosmetic chemicals market include AkzoNobel, Ashland, BASF and Evonik. flowers such as ylang ylang, along with The increase in male grooming is another factor boosting overall consumption of balsamic undertones and has uses in cosmetic chemicals, said the firm’s Research Director, Karan Chechi. many kinds of personal care products and fragrances. The use of the aroma chemical is What you see is what you smell increasing in the current market, especially in shampoos, shower products and liquid leasant perfume can make a woman’s face more attractive, according to . It can also be used as a flavouring research by Unilever’s Monell Chemical Senses Center – but it can also make additive in products such as mouthwash Pher look older. “Odour pleasantness and facial attractiveness integrate into one and as a perfume base in fine fragrances. joint emotional evaluation,” said Dr Janina Seubert, lead author of the report on the study, which was published in open access journal PLOS ONE. Silab fights against glycation The researchers asked 18 young adults, two-thirds of whom were female, to rate the To combat the signs of ageing, in particular attractiveness and age of the faces of eight women in photographs. The images varied elasticity loss and tissue stiffening as a in terms of ageing features. While the subjects were evaluating the images, five different result of the glycation of dermal proteins, odours were simultaneously released, created from blends of fish oil and rose oil (the Silab has introduced Deglysome, a double more fishy, the more unpleasant; the more rosy, the more pleasant). The test subjects effect active ingredient which it says is were then asked to rate the ages of the faces in the photographs, their attractiveness capable of limiting the cellular and tissue and the pleasantness of the smell. The pleasantness of the smell was found to directly damage caused by glycation and correlate with ratings of facial attractiveness. “This suggests that olfactory and visual advanced glycation end products (AGEs). cues independently influence judgments of facial attractiveness,” said the study. Rich in sulphated galactans derived However, when it came to age ratings, the presence of a pleasant smell seemed to from the Hypnea musciformis algae, the make the test subjects see the older faces as even older and the younger faces as even active protects the cytoskeleton by younger, whereas during the presence of an unpleasant smell, the younger and older maintaining vimentin organisation and faces were perceived to be more similar in age. preserving synthesis of the extracellular Patricia Mansfield-Devine, Rennes matrix proteins, as well as supporting the matrix network by stimulating the forma- tion of collagen and fibrillin networks. Corning’s MQ -1640 Flake Resin. Finally, Coloured Trampoline is a ludic BB Silab says Deglysome is suitable for Also showcased were two Pink Wizard for- jelly-cream (oil-in-water emulsion) which all anti-ageing and firming treatments. mulations, said to match the concept of has a bouncy marshmallow-like effect silky sweets – one silicone-based, which when handled, due to the use of Aculyn Univar takes the sweet line complies with Chinese Cosmetic Regulation 28. It also contains Dow Corning EL-9240 Univar made its debut at MakeUp in Paris requirements and which Univar said is an Silicone Elastomer Blend to provide a with a range of formulations based important issue for the French market luxurious feel. around a theme of ‘Sweety Pop-Up’, in where many manufacturers export “Textures have always been a strong partnership with Dow Corning. cosmetics to China. Pink Wizard is a silky focus for Univar Personal Care and our Innovations on display included anhydrous coloured wax which melts on ambition is ‘mastering the art of textures’,” External Exotic Tattoo, a long lasting, skin during application and uses Dow said Philippe Villequey, Industry Director tattoo effect eyeshadow that uses Dow Corning 2503 Cosmetic Wax. for Univar Personal Care, EMEA.

7 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Retail

the products in the future. Two years in development, BeautyDNA Cocokara Fine opens China is the concept of entrepreneur Adam Sandow, Chairman and CEO of Sandow, whose portfolio includes media brands chain and outlines expansion NewBeauty and Worth, creative apanese drugstore operator Cocokara Fine is rolling out a new chain in China management agency Culture + Commerce catering to customers who seek Japanese high-quality personal care products. and retailer Fred Segal. JPlans call for launching 20 stores within three years in northeastern China, raising the number to 50 in five years. Cocokara Fine has formed a joint venture with local Marionnaud digital expansion drug distributor CDFY Pharmacy Chain Investment, the Japanese trading house Itochu French perfumery chain Marionnaud is and Alfresa Holdings, a Japanese drug wholesaler. extending its Click & Collect service The first store was recently opened at the entrance of a shopping mall in front of a throughout the whole of France. The major railway station in Dalian. Japanese products make up 80% of the merchandise, move comes after the firm trialled a test including shampoos, hairstyling products, cosmetics, health foods and nappies. roll-out to 30% of its network in 2013. The company said it aims to establish the chain in the city as quickly as possible, Using the service, customers can buy and is in talks with 16 local shopping malls about opening locations. From Dalian, it their goods online and opt to have them plans to open stores elsewhere in Liaoning Province, where the local partner has its delivered to any selected Marionnaud base, as well as in the neighbouring northeastern provinces. According to the outlet. When they arrive at the selected company, Cocokara should win business by being able to demonstrate its Japanese store, the customer is notified by email. credentials through genuine Japanese merchandise. “We opted for a personalised David Kilburn, Tokyo approach to Click & Collect,” said Carole Barkatz, the firm’s E-commerce Manager. The products come in an open Smartphones sell direct in Brazil shopping bag rather than in a sealed parcel, so that members of staff can give razilian startup company 3bingo! has launched a free app for iOS and Android any required beauty advice, and all of the mobile devices that will bring consumers together with direct sellers. Called firm’s 8,000 skus are available via the BCora, the app will enable consumers all over Brazil to make their purchases service, which is free of charge. from anywhere. Once the consumer has selected the product, the app will use its “Consumers are changing their locator to find the nearest dealer (if the consumer does not know one) and notify shopping habits and Marionnaud is taking them that the consumer wants to buy the products. They can then respond with the care of them in this move,” said the firm in terms and conditions of payment. If necessary, dealers and customers can also use an announcement. It also said it sees the the chat facilities to discuss delivery details. Users can also access content directly service as not only a customer loyalty tool, through a web browser, if they do not own a smartphone or tablet. but also as a way to recruit new customers “Cora is an aggregator app, ie a tool which will gather the most important brands and enhance traffic in its outlets. of direct selling, which makes it more attractive to be downloaded by customers and the dealers because there is no need to download an application for each brand to Amway’s Bulgarian adventure buy or sell,” explained Mauricio Borges, CEO of 3bingo!. Among the brands available US direct selling company Amway has in the launch phase are Natura, O Boticário, Eudora, Avon, Jequiti, Tupperware and opened its newest affiliate, Amway Herbalife. According to the company, around 60 million Brazilians own smartphones. Bulgaria. The Bulgaria operation will be Sueli Ortega, São Paulo part of Amway’s Eastern Europe CLOS region and will be operated from Amway Romania. It will offer several product Beauty DNA out in the open online form with details such as their hair brands, including premium skin care brand US beauty matchmaking website type, skin types, likes, dislikes, Artistry, shampoo brand Satinique, men’s BeautyDNA is opening its site to the public preferences and so on (allowing them, for skin care range Tolsom, Fragrance by this month. The site has been in beta test example, to avoid ingredients such as Amway, the Body Series brand, Glister oral since March to allow the firm to trial its parabens, or products tested on animals), care products, as well as vitamins and matching algorithm and methodology on and are then matched with suitable dietary supplements brand Nutrilite and around 400 beauty enthusiast volunteers. products by a computer algorithm. Amway Home. All products will be sold With BeautyDNA, members pay US$25 Most of the products retail at exclusively by Amway Business Owners. per month for a personalised beauty box considerably more than the $25 Amway reported global sales of that contains one, or sometimes two, full- subscription fee and include brands such US$11.8bn in 2013 and is in the midst of a size products rather than the usual as Ahava, Avène, Kiehl’s and Skinceuticals. $332m manufacturing and R&D expansion multiples of travel sizes. Users fill in an Details are also provided of where to buy to support continued growth.

8 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Products

Les Inédits reveals perfume pair French goods retailer Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger has added two new fragrances Jill Stuart’s gem-inspired scent to its Les Inédits (the Originals) line: n 5 September, independent US fashion brand Jill Stuart will launch Crystal Violette Sacrée and Rose Irisée. Both of Bloom, a perfume “inspired by the beauty of diamonds”, according to the the new fragrances have been created by Ofirm. Japan is the country chosen for the exclusive launch. perfumer Jean-Claude Gigodot of Created by perfumer Christine Nagel, now in-house perfumer at Hermes but Sentaromatique and come in the formerly of Mane, the fragrance is described as ‘fresh, floral and icy’. Its notes standard Les Inédits off-white bottles include head notes of sweet pea, snowdrop, neroli and orange; heart notes of with rectangular wooden caps, priced at edelweiss, magnolia, jasmine, freesia, rose and raspberry; and base notes of US$215 for 100ml. osmanthus, ‘tulle accord’, gardenia, ylang ylang, cedar, amber and musk. However, Violette Sacré has head notes of Nagel is said to have used over 100 ingredients in the overall composition. bergamot, violet flower and violet leaf The juice is pink in colour and comes in a small, jewel-like bottle with an ornate absolu; heart notes of rose, orange silver collar and a cap composed of oversized blossoms made from Swarovski blossom, lily of the valley and jasmine; crystals. The outer packaging is white with tiny blossoms in pink and purple. and base notes of ‘pine forest’ accord, Crystal Bloom will be available as 30ml and 50ml eau de parfum, costing ¥5,500 wood, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood (US$53) and ¥7,500 (US$73) respectively. and musk. Jill Stuart was founded as an accessories brand in 1993 and entered the Rose Irisée (Iridescent Rose) has head beauty market in 2005. This is the firm’s ninth fragrance. notes of bergamot, orange and worm- wood; heart notes of almond, rose, ylang ylang and orris root; and base notes of Bentley hits the Absolute limit cedar, patchouli, sandalwood, musk, vanilla and leather. n 1 June, luxury automobile brand Bentley Motors launched a new limited Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger is a edition fragrance for men, named Bentley for Men Absolute. It is available family-run firm based in La Colle sur Oin the UK only, exclusively at Harrods, and costs £110 for a 100ml eau Loup near Grasse. Owned by Virginie and de parfum. Antoine Roux, it was founded in 1998 to Created by Michel Almairac of natural fragrance specialist Robertet, it features sell regional goods, including gift baskets head notes of ginger, pink pepper and olibanum; heart notes of papyrus, of foods and wines. It entered the sandalwood and Atlas cedar; and base notes of amber, ‘intense oud’, ambergris perfume market in 2005 and now has ten and moss. perfumes in production, all created by “I wanted to express the strong, authentic side of the Bentley brand, while also Gigodot. bringing out its timelessness,” said Almairac. “I therefore focused on woody notes, which have strength and unique character. This is also why I chose precious Oceanyx explores the sea to agarwood [oud] for this composition.” launch anti-age serums The bottle is the same shape as for the earlier fragrances Bentley for Men, Spanish celebrity and businesswoman Bentley for Men Intense and Bentley for Men Azure, but this time comes in jet black Ana Rodriguez Mosquera has launched a glass and with the shoulders and cap in gold. The cap features a diamond-cut band. new serum line called Oceanyx, based on The outer packaging is in black leather-look and Bentley’s winged B logo appears sea wellness. Suggested for atopic and on both the bottle and the box. sensitive skins, the serums are hypoaller- Bentley first entered the perfume business in 2013. This is its fifth fragrance. genic, contain no parabens or alcohol Patricia Mansfield-Devine, Rennes and are composed with sea algae active principles which contain moisturising, regenerating and detoxifying properties. (u120 for 30ml), which harnesses the brand’s website and via selected premium The collection is divided into three anti-ageing properties of Argilerine, and Spanish beauty institutes. The range will categories, based around age, with two Serum Celular Platino Reparador (u130), become available online later this year in serums available for each category. an anti-ageing formula with Matrixil 3000. Mexico and France. For women aged 25-35, there is Women over 45 can choose between Serum Celular Platino Hidratante, which Serum Celular Platino Reafirmante (u150 Bayolea scents London fashion contains 60% hyaluronic acid, while for 30ml), with algae and marine colla- British perfume house Penhaligon’s will Serum Celular Platino Vitamínico is a gen, or Serum Celular Platino launch its new Bayolea edt for men in combination of vitamins A, B and C. Both Regenerador (u200 for 30ml), which July, alongside a comprehensive grooming are priced at u80 for 30ml. contains marine thistle stem cells. All range that comprises an aftershave For those aged 35-45 years, there is serums can be used both day and night. splash, a hair pomade and a facial scrub. the Serum Celular Platino Rejuvenecedor Oceanyx is available online via the Prior to the launch, the fragrance will

9 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Products

semi-permanent eyeliner pencil and an easy to use application brush along with Fancl goes on the defensive application instructions for different looks. The range of kits includes: Black Eyes ancl, a Japanese cosmetic company known for developing additive-free of Paradise (Crystal White Grape, Gardens products suited for sensitive skin is introducing a new SPF50/PA+++ face of Paradise, Houri, with Cardinal Sin Fpowder that it says will deliver the highest levels of protection against both UVA Liner); Garden of Eden (Purity, Lust, and UVB rays. Original Sin, with Cardinal Sin Liner); The powder is designed for use during the day when women wish to touch up Earthly Delights (Milk & Honey, Earth their make-up and for those who wish UV protection to be an integral part of their Angel, Heaven & Hell, with Oak Liner); daily make-up routine. Ingredients include rose apple leaf extract and jojoba leaf Forbidden Fruit (Chastity, Heavenly, extract, which the company says are highly effective both in preventing skin damage Oxblood, with Oak liner); and Sugar Candy caused by ultraviolet light and also in treating any damage the skin might receive. Mountain (Angel Face, Dragon Tree, The powder base has high covering power and will absorb excess oil from the skin Gilded Wing, with Cardinal Sin Liner). without any change in appearance or risk of uneven coloration appearing on the skin. Called Fancl Face Powder UV Super Protect, the powder will be available in Japan The sparkling eyes of Darphin from 20 June, costing ¥2,376 for an compact holding 8g. Refills will also be available. Darphin Laboratories has developed a The powder should be used within one year of opening the container and within specialised treatment for the eye contour three years of the packaging date. Sales will be through directly operated stores and area which it says will help restore vitality mail order. to fragile eyes. David Kilburn, Tokyo Ideal Resource Anti-Dark Circle Eye Illuminator delivers a triple action to this ultra-fragile area: translucent optics tech- Tous getting friendly this nology features microparticles that capture light and instantly illuminate the eye area; Siegesbeckia extract and oligopeptides help autumn with latest fragrance stimulate the production of natural colla- ashion brand Tous has created a new launch for autumn, Tous Love Moments, gen, while olive extract helps restore barrier which the brand says is an anthem to friendship. It is the prestigious Catalan function to maintain optimal moisture Fbrand’s 14th fragrance, created in cooperation with Perfumes y Diseño (Madrid). balance; and green tea extract, combined Composed by Sophie Labbé – responsible for a number of other Tous fragrances – with the benefits of caffeine, helps to Tous Love is a citrus-floral-fruity with pink pepper and Italian mandarin at the top; soothe and protect the eye contour. muguet and violet in the heart; and cedar essence, sandalwood and white musk at its The product also features a special base. Its bottle colours are heart-pink and mint-green, illustrated with the iconic bear applicator tip inspired by the advanced brand and a green bow. massage techniques used by beauty Catalan photographer José Manuel Ferrater has captured a spontaneous fun therapists at the Darphin Vendomê moment for the global launch. Institute. It will be available from August, Tous Love will be available at selected retailers worldwide from 20 September, in priced at £44. three bottle sizes – 30, 50 and 90ml edt – priced at u35, u50 and u66 respectively. Lola Gavarrón, Madrid SBC tackles ageing day & night British skin care brand SBC: Simply Beautiful Collections has unveiled its new have an early outing as the official fragrance Price points are to be confirmed. However, Vitamin ACE Day & Night Cream. of the fashion event London Collections: Penhaligon’s eaux de toilette of similar The day and night cream contains Men 2014, the second time Penhaligon’s sizes range between £85 and £110. Oxysomes, translucent acid resistant lipo- has been given the honour as official somes which deliver active ingredients into fragrance of the event. A candle has Eye colour to go the distance the skin to moisturise, firm and brighten been created exclusively for the event to NovaLash has launched a new line of dry, dull skin. In addition, the cream is introduce the fragrance. extended wear eyeshadow kits which it says imbued with a powerful super foods Bayolea opens with refreshing man- won’t crease or smudge for over 24 hours. combination of Mediterranean extracts darin, tangerine and lemongrass, leading The new 24 Hour Cream Shadow is sold in including seed oil, which is rich in to an invigorating and warming heart of tryptics of three eyeshadows, inspired by omega 6; olive oil, a powerful antioxidant; cardamom, black pepper, neroli and laven- the vivid hues of artist Hieronymus Bosch’s and fennel oil, which has soothing and der, and resting on a ‘resolutely masculine’ masterpieces. anti-inflammatory benefits. Vitamin ACE base of cedar, sandalwood, musk, moss, In addition to the shadows, each kit Day & Night Cream is recommended for patchouli and amber. also contains a JETliner, a complementary anyone concerned with the signs of ageing.

10 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com New media & marketing

TOP TWEETS ON THE STREET Wash your hands for Unilever We track the latest beauty nilever has released a new film on YouTube to support its Lifebuoy brand’s news in 140 characters Help a Child Reach 5 campaign and spread the word about the importance of Uhandwashing with . The film, Tree of Life, follows a mother’s journey of love, loss and longing after losing her child to diarrhoea, a preventable disease. The @ChemPoint_PC brand said the story used to dramatise the Help a Child Reach 5 campaign was Looking to the Future of Beauty and Its inspired by folklore. It is a follow-up to its film Gondappa about Thesgora, the village in Consumers http://buff.ly/1jVnUDd it ‘adopted’ last year to help improve children’s handwashing habits. Samir Singh, Global Brand VP of Lifebuoy, said: “We wanted to tell the world the @ABC7Chicago Lifebuoy story in a deeply emotional way and turn the Help a Child Reach 5 campaign Illinois bans microbeads in cosmetics into something personal and powerful. It is unacceptable that 1.7 million children die and soaps: http://abc7.ws/1ka6rqS every year from infectious diseases when we have cost-effective life-saving solutions, such as handwashing with soap, readily available.” @AliMarLabs Engaging Innovation in Beauty #Packaging: http://bit.ly/1kZ8J0w Listerine launches World Cup pic.twitter.com/eFFYsR2ZII

@Perfume_Society marketing counter-attack Fragrant news: Alexander Wang has he Listerine brand has launched a global social media campaign to take place confirmed he’s working on producing during throughout the FIFA World Cup. The social marketing action, entitled his first scent for @BALENCIAGA - due T‘Power To Your Mouth’, aims to maximise reach and engagement using the to launch in autumn #fragrance hashtag #PowertoYourMouth to react to news of the day, recap the most important matches and connect with sports and brand enthusiasts through its social channels. @BeautyIndia2014 The brand said it will optimise digital advertising in Facebook and Twitter by India’s cosmetics ingredients market to allocating dollars in real time to the tweets and posts that perform the best. Oral care surge due to demand for personal care messages for Listerine will be incorporated using the same tone. products http://goo.gl/Zn2UCo “This campaign represents the first time one of our consumer brands has leveraged real-time social marketing on a global scale,” said Gail Horwood, Vice @LisaALeigh President, Worldwide Digital Strategy for Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies. Pakistan has proposed a 10% Federal “We are harnessing the power of a major global event to connect with football fans by Excise Duty (FED) on cosmetics. helping them fuel conversations about matches in a highly relevant way.” http://bit.ly/1p9N5Kh @CSRwire Book’n’Bloom steps into UK New program taps commitment of #Avon’s worldwide Reps to help end nternational online booking tool Book‘n’Bloom has launched in the UK. The tool, #deforestation http://shrd.by/cmRdWs developed in 2012 by Claus Rosenberg and Charalambos ‘Babis’ Papadopoulos, Ienables beauty salons and other small- and medium-sized businesses to manage @neela_ahmed their daily business, receive bookings and get new clients through Facebook. RT @LuxurySociety: China’s Rosenberg said: “Many beauty salons do not see the benefits of the work they are #ecommerce could account for 50% of developing on social media because they cannot close sales through it. With this tool global #Retail in 10 Years ow.ly/xEKXY integrated into their Facebook pages, the beauty salon owners can use social conversation to increase loyalty and gain new clients.” @bbeautyevents The service costs u9 a month and includes a booking calendar, client relationship Shiseido Opens Research Facility management, discount coupons, Facebook reminders and a mobile app. Over the Dedicated to Hair Regeneration coming months, the company said it plans to add a range of further services, including tinyurl.com/kc3ypj2 help with content amplification and news and the provision of materials such as trend reports, images, videos, inspirational ideas, applications and competitions. @TomsofMaine Book’n’Bloom currently has clients in Spain, Greece, Cyprus, Qatar, France, India, Have you tried aluminum-free Argentina, England, Hungary and the US. It is planning to expand its business to deodorant? http://ow.ly/xI1KX other Europe countries and Latin America this year.

11 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Looking ahead

17-18 JUNE 24-26 SEPTEMBER COSMETICS BUSINESS COSMOBEAUTÉ THAILAND SPOTLIGHT REGULATORY SUMMIT Venue: Bangkok, Thailand Venue: Brussels, Belgium Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] www.cosmobeauteasia.com Seeking quality in Venezuela www.cosmeticsbusiness.com ven during the desperate economic times currently 25-27 SEPTEMBER afflicting Venezuela, quality personal care products remain 1-2 JULY BEAUTY AZERBAIJAN Evital to its consumers. “Beauty is part of the culture,” said HAIR BIOLOGY WORKSHOP Venue: Baku, Azerbaijan Jean Clauteaux, President of L'Oréal’s Venezuela section. Unlike Venue: Hamburg, Germany Email: [email protected] neighbouring markets, he said a key characteristic of Venezuelan Email: info@proderm- www.beauty.iteca.az consumers is their strong demand for high end products. academy.com Regardless of price and/or income, Clauteaux noted, “it's almost www.proderm-academy.com 30 SEPTEMBER-1 OCTOBER compulsory" for Venezuelans to purchase them. PACKAGING INNOVATIONS Indeed, market analyst Euromonitor International confirmed 6-8 JULY LONDON that Venezuelans spent more per capita on beauty products COSMOBEAUTÉ MYANMAR Venue: London, UK (US$147.70) than almost every country in Latin America in 2013, Venue: Yangon, Myanmar Email: [email protected] coming in third behind regional economic giants Chile and Email: [email protected] www.easyfairs.com Brazil. And despite the anti-business rhetoric of the late www.cosmobeauteasia.com President, Hugo Chávez, the market has grown almost threefold, 30 SEPTEMBER-1 OCTOBER from some $1.50bn in 1999 to nearly $4.50bn last year, 9-10 JULY INNOCOS DIGITAL according to Euromonitor. SUN PROTECTION & ANTI- Venue: New York, US The late socialist leader capped the price of staple personal AGEING SKIN CARE innocosevents.com care items – such as shaving creams, shampoos and various CONFERENCE ASIA soaps – many of which are now the hardest to find. Business Venue: Hilton Hotel, Singapore 7-9 OCTOBER leaders in Venezuela, however, say producers struggle to cover Email: info@summit- BEAUTY AFRICA costs as they cope with almost 60% inflation and price controls events.com Venue: Lagos, Nigeria on select products. Maritza Dorta, President of the Venezuelan www.summit-events.com Email: beautyafrica@ Chamber of Cosmetics and Related Industries (CAVEINCA), informa.com pointed out that recently, deodorants and hand soaps have been 9-10 SEPTEMBER www.beautyafricaexhibition.com in particularly short supply: “With such forced low prices it’s very IN-COSMETICS BRASIL hard to fill demand.” Venue: São Paulo, Brazil 9-11 OCTOBER In their efforts to supply products to their usual customers, Email: incos.helpline@ COSMOBEAUTÉ INDONESIA many companies complain their efforts are being undermined by reedexpo.co.uk Venue: Jakarta, Indonesia price ceilings and a lack of foreign currency to obtain key inputs. www.in-cosmeticsbrasil.com Email: [email protected] “There's a problem of the availability of [US] dollars and problem www.cosmobeauteasia.com of [fixed] prices,” said Dorta. Trade groups also point to a recent 9-11 SEPTEMBER US dollar drought to explain the paucity of personal care COSMEETING & CREATIVE 20-22 OCTOBER products. Petrodollars have been fuelling the Organization of the BEAUTY PARIS 2014 COSME TOKYO Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC) nation’s economy; the Venue: Porte de Versailles, Paris Venue: Tokyo Big Sight, Japan Caracas based services association Consecomercio said about Email: cosmeeting@ Email: cosme-tokyo@ 70% of all products consumed in Venezuela are imported or cosmeeting.com reedexpo.co.jp simply assembled from raw material shipped from abroad. www.cosmeeting.com www.cosmetokyo.jp All sectors have suffered with shortages as the flow of foreign currency has dwindled to a trickle. To ease these problems, the 17-19 SEPTEMBER 22-25 OCTOBER authorities introduced a new currency market in March, effectively INTERCHARM UKRAINE INTERCHARM weakening the Venezuelan bolívar (VEF) by more than 80% against Venue: IEC, Kiev, Ukraine Venue: Exhibition Center the US dollar for many imports. But while the move could free up Email: [email protected] Crocus Expo, Moscow hard currency for some cash strapped businesses, fears are www.intercharm.kiev.ua/eng Email: intercharm@ growing that it might help fuel inflation. reedexpo.ru Yet, despite the new prices, Kathleen Velásquez, Venezuela 23-24 SEPTEMBER www.intercharm.ru General Manager for Peru based cosmetics company Yanbal, thinks MAKEUP IN NEW YORK the new exchange rate will be a relief if it facilitates a more regular Venue: CENTER548, New York 27-29 OCTOBER flow of hard currency. She added that higher prices are unlikely to Email: contact@ LUXE PACK MONACO curb Venezuelans’ appetite for cosmetics. makeup-in-newyork.com Venue: Grimaldi Forum Andrew Rosati, Caracas www.makeup-in-newyork.com www.luxepack.com

12 • CosmeticNews Weekly No604/June 16 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com