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Rutes Insòlites Per Barcelona L'elegia Barcelonina De Gaziel Albert Serra

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Rutes Insòlites Per Barcelona L'elegia Barcelonina De Gaziel Albert Serra COBERTA 92_BCNM 06/06/14 12:51 Página 1 www.barcelonametropolis.cat Número 92 / Juny - June - Junio 2014 - 6 € Barcelona Metròpolis 92 - Juny / June / Junio 2014 Junio / June / Juny - 92 Metròpolis Barcelona Rutes insòlites per Barcelona Unique routes through Barcelona Rutas insólitas por Barcelona L’elegia barcelonina de Gaziel Gaziel’s Barcelona elegy www.bcn.cat/bcnmetropolis http://twitter.com/bcnmetropolis 9 2 La elegía barcelonesa de Gaziel Entrevista / Interview 8 400214 062238 Albert Serra COBERTA 92_BCNM 06/06/14 12:51 Página 2 BM92-1-3 Editorial-JordiOK-def_. 06/06/14 09:23 Página 1 Editorial Les imatges que il·lustren l’editorial i l’interior de la portada presenten diversos aspectes de la Barcelona insòlita a la qual dediquem el nostre dossier monogràfic. Fotos: Dani Codina i Albert Armengol Ulls nous sobre Barcelona Una de les imatges més curioses que podem trobar avui a d’entrada de turistes i la muntanya cada vegada serà més Marc Puig i Guàrdia Barcelona és la d’un turista ensumant encuriosit una parada transitable, un cop la carretera de les Aigües es converteixi Director de Comunicació i de Bicing. És un dels pocs serveis que ofereix la ciutat que en un gran corredor verd. Barcelona Metròpolis us convida Atenció Ciutadana li són vedats. Com nosaltres, el turista agafa el metro, el bus a trencar unes muralles invisibles que hem anat construint o un taxi, però ben sovint, després de mirar-se amb perple- al voltant d’una idea fixa de la ciutat. xitat totes aquelles bicicletes arrenglerades, opta per fer Barcelona ocupa la sisena posició del primer rànquing una de les coses més antigues del món: caminar. mundial de ciutats amb millor reputació o marca, segons es Avesats com estem a desplaçar-nos sobre rodes amb desprèn del “Guardian Cities Global Brand Survey”, elabo- pressa, el turista ens pot ensenyar a viure la ciutat a un altre rat per Saffron, una consultoria de marca especialitzada en ritme, a contemplar-la amb ulls nous. La mirada que projec- branding urbà, que ha fet un índex de les 57 principals ten sobre els nostres carrers i monuments és un reflex que urbs del món. Aquest reconeixement cal agrair-lo als esfor- ens retorna una imatge del que som. També és cert que el ços de molta gent, però també cal honorar-lo estant-hi a l’al- record que s’emportaran de Barcelona anirà, en bona tura i sent fidels al que som. mesura, lligat a les nostres empremtes i orientacions. Dels No fa gaire unes joves estudiants d’història de l’art van turistes podem aprendre moltes coses, sí, i una és tornar a fer una descoberta singular al passeig de Gràcia: uns opera- caminar per la ciutat i parar-hi compte. ris municipals que estaven enrajolant la vorera amb uns Sovint tendim a creure que els turistes són formigues motius gaudinians encaixaven malament les peces del gregàries que només volen recórrer els circuits de la Barce- mosaic. És un incident sense més importància, però molt lona gòtica o modernista, però la realitat és que n’hi ha esperançador, perquè ens convida a creure encara en una molts que tenen prou curiositat per perdre’s per la ciutat, ciutadania desperta que vetlla per la integritat i l’autentici- explorant barris excèntrics o racons difícils de trobar a les tat del nostre paisatge. Una ciutat és viva si els seus vesti- guies. I troben meravelles que nosaltres ja no sabem valorar. gis són vius. En aquest número de Barcelona Metròpolis hem Si ens conformem amb els rèdits d’un turisme previsible, encarregat a nou autors que ens descobreixin rutes alter- fàcil o segur, aboquem el nostre visitant a la veritat banal, al natives i insòlites per la ciutat. La Barcelona dels passatges tòpic adotzenat, a la postaleta de sempre, al truisme, en o dels túnels conviu aquí amb la Barcelona maçònica o definitiva, que de tan conegut es torna fals. En canvi, ense- romana. Descentralitzar el turisme no és únicament una nyar-li els nostres racons més amagats, descobrir-li els estratègia circulatòria, sinó patrimonial. secrets de la nostra història, convidar-lo a entrar dins la En una carta escrita l’any 1903 al director d’El Liberal, ciutat que realment és més casa nostra, serà sempre un Benito Pérez Galdós recorda la primera estada a casa exercici d’altruisme. nostra, l’any 1868, quan Barcelona ja havia trencat “la cintura de murallas que oprimían el cuerpo de la histórica ciudad y empezaba a estirar sus miembros robustos nutri- dos por sangre potente”. En aquell temps el mar i les munta- nyes van passar a ser les muralles de Barcelona, però avui, paradoxalment, la via marítima s’ha convertit en la porta 1 BM92-1-3 Editorial-JordiOK-def_. 06/06/14 09:23 Página 2 Editorial The images illustrating the editorial and the inner cover present different aspects of the surprising Barcelona to which we dedicate our monograph dossier. Photos: Montse García and Mediapro - Antena 3 Films / Gravier Productions / Álbum Barcelona through different eyes Marc Puig i Guàrdia One of the more curious sights you come across in highway has become the gateway for tourists and the moun- Director of Barcelona these days is that of a tourist curiously sniffing tains will be easier to cross once the Carretera de les Aigües Communications and Citizen Service around a bicing stop. This is one of the few services the city has been turned into a huge green corridor. Barcelona offers that are forbidden to them. Like us, a tourist gets the Metròpolis invites you to break down some of the invisible metro, a bus or a taxi, but often, after looking in bewilder- walls that we have built round our fixed idea of Barcelona. ment at all those bikes lined up, they opt for one of the Barcelona takes sixth position in the first world ranking oldest things in the world: walking. of cities that have the best reputation or brand, according to Accustomed as we are to rushing around on wheels, the Guardian Cities Global Brand Survey, conducted by tourists can teach us to experience the city at a different Saffron Brand Consultants, who have produced an index of pace, to see it from a different perspective. The gaze they the world’s 57 main cities. We must thank a lot of people for cast over our streets and monuments is a reflection that their efforts which have led to this recognition, but we must shows us an image of what we are. It is also true that the also honour it by living up to it and being faithful to what we memory of Barcelona they take away with them is largely are. linked to the traces and pointers we leave. We can indeed Not long ago, some art history students made an learn a lot from tourists, and one of these things is to start unusual discovery on Passeig de Gràcia: some council work- walking round the city again and paying attention to it. ers, who were retiling the pavement with Gaudí motifs, were Often we tend to think of tourists as gregarious little not fitting the pieces of the mosaic together correctly. An ants that only want to follow the usual routes round Gothic insignificant incident yet a very encouraging one, because it and Modernist Barcelona, but the reality is that lots of them gives us grounds for believing there are still citizens who are curious enough to lose themselves in the city, exploring are alert, keeping an eye on the integrity and authenticity of neighbourhoods far from the centre and nooks and crannies our cityscape. A city is alive if its relics are still alive. that are hard to find in the guidebooks. And they discover If we limit ourselves to what predictable, easy, safe marvels we no longer know how to appreciate. tourism gives us, we confine our visitors to banal truths, For this issue of Barcelona Metròpolis we have asked vulgar stereotypes, the traditional little postcard, in short, nine authors to find us alternative and unusual routes round to a truism that ends up being false because it is so the city. The Barcelona of passageways and tunnels coexists common. If, on the other hand, we showed them our hidden with Masonic and Roman Barcelona. Decentralising tourism corners, revealed the secrets of our history, invited them is not just a circulatory strategy, but one related to heritage, into the city, which is our real home, that would be an exer- too. cise in altruism. In a letter written in 1903 to the editor of El Liberal, the writer Benito Pérez Galdós recalls his first stay here, in 1868, when Barcelona had already snapped “the belt of walls holding in the body of this historical city and was beginning to stretch its robust limbs, nourished by power- ful blood”. Then, the sea and the mountains became Barcelona’s walls but today, paradoxically, the maritime 2 BM92-1-3 Editorial-JordiOK-def_. 06/06/14 09:23 Página 3 Editorial Las imágenes que ilustran la editorial y el interior de la portada presentan diferentes aspectos de la Barcelona insólita a la que dedicamos nuestro dossier monográfico. Fotos: Albert Armengol Ojos nuevos sobre Barcelona Una de las imágenes más interesantes que podemos encon- mar y las montañas pasaron a ser las murallas de Barcelona, Marc Puig i Guàrdia trar hoy en Barcelona es la de un turista curioseando una pero hoy, paradójicamente, la vía marítima se ha convertido Director de Comunicación y parada de Bicing. Es uno de los pocos servicios que ofrece en la puerta de entrada de turistas y la montaña cada vez Atención Ciudadana la ciudad que le están prohibidos.
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