TUSCANY ARCHAEOLOGICAL ITINERARIES A Journey from Prehistory to the Roman Age ONCE UPON A TIME... That’s how fables start, once upon a time there was – what? A region bathed by the sea, with long beaches the colour of gold, rocky cliffs plunging into crystalline waters and many islands dotting the horizon. There was once a region cov- ered by rolling hills, where the sun lavished all the colours of the earth, where olive trees and grapevines still grow, ancient as the history of man, and where fortified towns and cities seem open-air museums. There was once a region with ver- dant plains watered by rivers and streams, surrounded by high mountains, monasteries, and forests stretching as far as the eye could see. There was, in a word, Tuscany, a region that has always been synonymous with beauty and nature, art and history, especially Medieval and Renaissance history, a land whose fame has spread the world over. And yet, if we stop to look closely, this region offers us many more treasures and new histories, the emotion aroused only by beauty. Because along with the most famous places, monuments and museums, we can glimpse a Tuscany that is even more ancient and just as wonderful, bear- ing witness not only to Roman and Etruscan times but even to prehistoric ages. Although this evidence is not as well known as the treasures that has always been famous, it is just as exciting to discover. This travel diary, ad- dressed to all lovers of Tuscany eager to explore its more hidden aspects, aims to bring us back in time to discover these jewels. Because it is just during those remote ages – from prehistoric times to the Roman ep- och, passing through the Etruscan era – that the seeds of a culture were sewn, of a love of beauty and a way of life that have created the Tuscany of today. - MAP - 1 TECCHIA DI EQUI E MUSEO DELLE GROTTE DI EQUI TERME [TECCHIA DI EQUI AND EQUI TERME CAVERNS MUSEUM] 7 Prehistoric sites 2 MUSEO CIVICO E PARCO ARCHEOLOGICO DEL MONTE CETONA [MONTE CETONA CIVIC MUSEUM AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK] 3 MUSEO PALEONTOLOGICO DI MONTEVARCHI [MONTEVARCHI PALAEONTOLOGICAL MUSEUM] 8 4 MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE DI FIRENZE [FLORENCE MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY] 1 10 5 GROTTA ALL’ONDA (MONTE MATANNA) [ONDA CAVERN (MONTE MATANNA)] 5 11 6 MUSEO CIVICO ARCHEOLOGICO DI CAMAIORE [CAMAIORE CIVIC ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM] 6 7 MUSEO DELLE STATUE STELE LUNIGIANESI DI PONTREMOLI [MUSEUM OF THE LUNIGIANA STELAE-STATUES AT PONTREMOLI] 16 12 8 SANTUARIO DELLA MADONNA DEL SOCCORSO (MINUCCIANO) [SANCTUARY OF THE MADONNA DEL SOCCORSO (MINUCCIANO)] 4 14 13 9 MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO DI MASSA MARITTIMA [MASSA MARITTIMA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM] 10 MOSTRE PERMANENTI ARCHEOLOGICHE DI CASTELNUOVO GARFAGNANA [CASTELNUOVO GARFAGNANA ARCHAEOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS] 3 11 CENTRO DI DOCUMENTAZIONE SANT’AGATA DI SCARPERIA [SANT’AGATA DI SCARPERIA DOCUMENTATION CENTRE] 12 FOSSA NERA E MOSTRA ARCHEOLOGICA PERMANENTE DEL MUSEO DI PORCARI [FOSSA NERA AND PORCARI MUSEUM ARCHAEOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS] 13 MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE DELL’UNIVERSITÀ DI PISA A CALCI [UNIVERSITY OF PISA AT CALCI MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY] 14 MUSEO E ISTITUTO FIORENTINO DI PREISTORIA “PAOLO GRAZIOSI” [FLORENTINE MUSEUM AND INSTITUTE OF PREHISTORY “PAOLO GRAZIOSI”] 9 15 MUSEO DI PREISTORIA E PROTOSTORIA DELLA VALLE DEL FIUME FIORA (MANCIANO) [FLORA VALLEY MUSEUM OF PREHISTORY 2 AND PROTOHISTORY (MANCIANO)] 17 16 MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO E DELL’UOMO “ALBERTO CARLO BLANC” DI VIAREGGIO [VIAREGGIO MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND MANKIND 18 “ALBERTO CARLO BLANC”] 17 SASSI RITTI DI MONTE CAPANNE [UPRIGHT STONES ON MONTE CAPANNE] 15 18 MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO DI MARCIANA [MARCIANA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM] - TIME LINE - THE PALAEOLITHIC THE METAL AGES OR OLD STONE AGE - Copper Age (3,500 years ago) - Lower Palaeolithic (2 million years ago) - Bronze Age (2,300 years ago) - Middle Palaeolithic (120,000 years ago) - Iron Age (1,200 years ago) - Upper Palaeolithic (35,000 years ago) MESOLITHIC NEOLITHIC 3,500 years ago 2 million years ago 10,000 years ago 8,000 years ago It is the time when man first set foot on this land, never to leave it again. It is P R S the time when man lived immersed in nature, it is prehistory. E E I H R IS A TO ER RIC ITIN HUNTING FOR MAMMOTHS Lunigiana is a frontier territory, stretching out around the Magra River basin, squeezed in between the Emilian Apennines, the Province of Liguria and the Mediterra- nean, a land of mountains overlooking the sea, a land of unique, unmistakable features. Still today, its history and traditions are perfectly preserved, as can be seen, for example, in the little town of Fivizzano, which the poet Carducci called ‘a pearl lost among the mountains’. This is the Valle del Lucido, a wild, enchanted place dotted with the ancient medieval towns of Monzone, Equi Terme and Vinca. Traversing this valley, at the foot of the Pizzo d’Uccello, means plunging into ancient, unspoiled nature, filled with surprises. And this is how it must have looked to the first inhabitants of this zone, groups of Neanderthals who arrived in this territory during the middle Palaeolithic age, leaving traces of their passage from nearly A VOYAGE THROUGH PREHISTORY 100,000 years ago. Let’s try to stop the hands of a clock – like magic, as in a fairy tale – and make them turn backward, slowly at first, then spinning faster and faster. Suddenly everything around us seems blurred and hazy, because we are going back in time, as if in a in science fiction film or book. And year after year, century -af ter century, millennium after millennium, something amazing happens. Sud- denly the hands of the clock stop and time begins to flow forward again, as if nothing had happened, and we look around to see where we are. This land we now call Tuscany is uninhabited; its hills and plains are covered with for- ests, nothing but trees wherever you look, as far as the eye can see. The rivers and streams have no banks or bridges, and the air resounds with the howls of wild animals. There are no cities or Left, the entrance of streets or squares, no noise of traffic. The sky is no the Tecchia, at the foot of the Alpi Apuane. longer streaked with long white jet streams and Above, the tusks of the night has become a dark blanket quilted with a mammoth at the stars. This is the time when men lived in caves, Museo Paleontologico gathered fruit from wild plants and hunted with di Montevarchi. weapons made of wood and chipped stone. Double-sided tools from the Lower Palaeolithic age. Above, a diorama shows how a group of 6 Neanderthal hunters lived in the caves. 7 The Valle del Lucido, lying within the Alpi Apuane Regional Park, is famous WHO WAS NEANDERTHAL MAN? for the splendid grottos that have been carved out over hundreds of years He could almost be called a relative, a by the slow action of water, dripping through cracks in the limestone. In the kind of distant cousin. He lived between Geoparco delle Grotte di Equi you can visit, in addition to an itinerary that 200,000 and 40,000 years ago and winds underground for nearly 500 meters, the Tecchia di Equi, a prehistoric looked a little different from us, being site with a shelter and a cave in the mountainside about 30 metres deep. shorter and heavier, with a high forehead It is here that the Middle Palaeolithic hunters lived, chipping stone to make and an important nose. He was a nomad weapons and tools for work. Excavations have unearthed implements made who built seasonal camps, and the Valle del Lucido in Lunigiana was the ideal place for survival, with an abundance of water, caves and wild game. To see a life- size replica, you can visit the Museo delle Grotte di Equi, housed in an old water- driven mill, where you will also find the impressive figure of a cave bear(Ursus spelaeus). To explore a real Neanderthal campsite instead, you can go to the Parco Archeologico naturalistico di Belvedere, on Monte Cetona, where workshops and educational activities for all age groups, accompanied by guides, are held. The entrance to the Tecchia di Equi, with the permanent exhibition “Not just bears lived in caves”. of flintstone and the bones of Pleistocene animals now extinct. They were the prey hunted by the Neanderthals and brought here to be butchered. At that time, an animal was not important for its meat alone but also for its fur, used as clothing, and its bones, furnishing material for objects of daily use and ornaments. Finds of animal bones also help to show us the conditions of the climate the cave men lived in - cold, temperate, or hot. Models of the ancient cave bear and of Neanderthal Man at grottediequi.it the Museo delle Grotte di Equi. Left, fossilised remains of a cave leopard on display at preistoriacetona.it the Museo di Storia Naturale di Firenze, from the Tecchia di Equi. Above, a Mousterian arrow, also from the Tecchia. 8 9 LOOKING FOR PREHISTORIC ANIMALS: We can find out more about the tools the Neanderthals used and the places FROM MAMMOTHS TO WHALES! they lived in at an important prehistoric site near the town of Camaiore, close The climate and the temperature change with the passage of time. In the to the sea. It is the Grotta all’Onda, on the slopes of Monte Matanna, a great Middle Stone Age, for instance, the Neanderthal hunters lived through a pe- cavern with little streams of water flowing down its outer walls.